Mushu-Patrón de Amigurumi

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Mushu
Crochet Pattern
This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!
1
A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!
In the very beginning crochet was, for me, nothing more than a Sunday hobby, useful to keep my
mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies. When I first opened my Instagram account, I’d
have never imagined achieving such success, but it quickly grew and many people expressed
interest in reproducing my creations :D, which brought me to start typing down and sharing my
patterns!
However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the
design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to
make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third
of the time I spend on a project.
I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I
don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my small Ravelry shop. I
would love to share all my patterns for free but, seeing the amount of time and energy I spend on
them, that wouldn't be possible.
If you like my work and wish for me to keep writing

crochet patterns, please support me: don't redistribute
this pattern and don't make use of pirated copies.
Not sure if yours is a pirated copy? Read the next page
:)
Let me thank you once again for your love and

support. You’re all a source of great motivation for
me!
Cheers,
Chiara
2
License
Hello, and thank you in advance for trying out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)
Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind!
This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this
document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t
use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn.
DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.
DO NOT reuse my pictures.
This pattern is intended for personal use only.
Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your
work anyway :D
Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)
For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise.
I always answer :)
3
Read Me!
Pay attention to the details!
Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be
afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so
small it’s quite fast :) Another way of working in rounds is the joined
It's a good practice to read the whole document rounds one: in this case, you’d start each round
before starting. Knowing what to expect will with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right
help you pay attention! below the chain, and you end each round with a sl
in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by
stacking concentric layers. Mushu’s gong is
worked in joint rounds.
Tips and Tutorials Rows
You can find quick video tutorials on how to work Whereas, when working in rows, at the end of
in rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic each row you should turn your work and proceed
stitches in my Youtube channel. I advise you to in the opposite direction. the first st of a row
have a look in case you should be unsure about should, therefore, be worked in the last stitch of
how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite the previous row, thus proceeding zig-zag and
standard, so you might as well just type the name creating a 2D shape.
of the stitch on google, and follow the first
tutorial popping out.
You can also find some useful tips related to my
patterns in my Instagram guides. I strongly
recommend taking a look if this is the first time
you’re following one of my patterns! This
material is constantly evolving: I keep improving
in explaining myself and I keep enriching it. That's
why I'm not linking any post to specific parts of
the document.
When working in rows, you should always make a
turning chain at the end of each row of sc to help
you better turn your work. This turning chain
Rounds and Rows might not always be explicitly reported in the
pattern, but it’s visible in the diagrams.
Parts of this pattern have been worked in Rounds, The only case where you should NOT make a
others in Rows. turning chain is when you make a decrease at the
beginning of a row (you skip the first stitch and
start working in the second).
Rounds When working in rows, after a chain, always start
When working in rounds, the first stitch of a from the second loop from hook, if not specified
round must be worked upon the first stitch of the otherwise.
previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and
creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is
known as continuous rounds.
4
For left-handed people

If you’re left-handed, everything is mirror-like for
you!
Right-handed people should work in the round
clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between
them and the work. Left-handed people should
work in the round counterclockwise keeping the
work between them and the crochet hook. YU vs YO stitches
Right-handed should work in rows proceeding
Some parts in this pattern are worked YU (Yarn
from right to left, left-handed should work from Under) i.e. using the “X” stitch. Others are worked
left to right. Therefore, you can easily follow this YO (yarn over), i.e. using the “V” stitch.
pattern keeping in mind to always swap Typically, I work rounds YU and rows YO.
instructions specularly: for example, if I say that You find more info about the two in the dedicated
the stitch marker should be placed on the left side post in my IG profile.
of the doll, that makes it the right side for you, The choice of stitch type is mainly aesthetical and
and so on.azs` doesn’t impact the result more than how a change
in gauge would. Feel free to follow it all using
only 1 kind of stitch, if that makes you more
comfortable.
Stitch marker usage
I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the
round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the
Measure your gauge
round. Measure the dimensions of your stitches or
compare them with those of the rest of the project
to understand if you’re proceeding well.
Don’t work inside out! For example: the stitches of the wig are smaller
than those of the head, despite the indications
If you’re working correctly and you’re right said to work it with the same tension? It will most
handed, you should work clockwise keeping the likely not fit :)
crochet hook between you and the work If you’re planning on making more characters of
(counterclockwise if you're left-handed). the same series, and you want to make them all
alike, don’t forget to keep another doll close so
you can compare the sts dimensions and adjust
your gauge.
Tiny variations in the thickness of the yarn, your
mood, but also other factors such as lighting,
together with your natural improvement as a
crafter, can play a role in impacting your gauge.
That’s perfectly normal! Just take your time to
If you’re right handed and you’re working adjust it if needed.
counterclockwise keeping the work between you
and your crochet hook, then you’re working inside
out. You’ll have a hard time following this pattern
if you do so, I’d suggest you correct it.
5
Abbreviations
* These are standard US standard abbreviations
+ something I’ve made up to ease the reading.
★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
★ Row = row
★ MR = Magic Ring
★ st = stitch
★ sk = skip
★ sc = single crochet
★ inc = sc increase (invisible sc increase, i.e.
1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st
when working in rounds, [2 sc] through
the entire st when working in rows)
★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease
when working in rounds, sc2tog when
working in rows)
★ dc = double crochet
★ hdc = half double crochet
★ ch = chain
★ sl = slip stitch
★ tr = treble crochet
★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
inner loop when working in rounds)
★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
outer loop when working in rounds)
★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
done in the same loop or stitch
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
the stitch
★ IJ = Invisible Join
★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
★ stsc = standing sc
★ tch = turning chain
★ rc = rising chain
6
smaller than indicated to better work the body

tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
Materials which the stuffing would be visible or fall

through.
You should get a good result with this pattern
★ 2.0 mm crochet hook as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
★ Tapestry needle the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than
★ 6 mm black safety eyes indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans: result: maximum 1 size bigger!
○ Red (26): body
○ White (01): eyes
○ Yellow (35): belly
○ Dark turquoise (55): horns
○ Cherry (91): nose and tail
Dimensions
○ Mustard (84): gong Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
○ Brown (40): gong importantly, working tight!!!), the finished doll will
★ Textile glue be about 9 cm tall.
★ Metallic wire 0.8 mm
○ Comparison with 2.0 mm hook
Note on the eyes

The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s
dimensions! Don’t purchase 6 mm eyes if you’re
not sure the dimensions of your doll will be
similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box
with many different sizes, and use the one which
better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes
should be 2 stitches wide.
Note on the yarn

I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be
worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in
1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when
working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size
7
Row13: 11 sc (11)
Row14: 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (9), Turn
without making a tch
Row15: sk 1, 6 sc, 1 dec (7), Turn without making
Head a tch
Row16: sk 1, 4 sc, 1 dec (5), Turn without making
a tch
Row17: sk 1, 2 sc, 1 dec (3)
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm CY-PO
Work tight
Work YU
Work with red yarn
R1: ch 6 (5)
Work R2 around the chain.
R2: 5 sc in the upper loops, turn around, 5 sc in
the lower loops (10)
Upper half
Join the yarn on the next free stitch of R10.
R3: 1 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc (14)
R4: 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc,
1 sc (18)
R5: 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc,
1 sc (22)
R6-R8: 22 sc (22)
R9: (1 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc)x 2 (18)
R10: 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1
dec, 1 sc (14)
And work the upper half of the mouth in the

Lower half remaining stitches of R10.
Work YO
Add 1 sc off round, so to position yourself right on Row1: 1 st sc, 6 sc (Row1 isn’t complete yet)
the side, turn.
Then work 1 surface sc on the side, inserting

your hook across R10.
Start working in rows. Don’t forget to make the
tch and turn at the end of each row!
Work YO
Row11: 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (9)
Row12: 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (11)
8
Now Row1 is complete (8), Turn without making

a tch
Row2: sk 1, 7 sc, 1 surface sc as done before
turn without tch,

sk 1, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, end with a 1
surface sc on the other side
CY-PO
(8), Turn without making a tch
Then fasten off and hide all the tails left. You can
Row3: sk 1, 7 sc (7), Turn without making a tch
hide all the tails inside, since the mouth will be
Row4: sk 1, 4 sc, 1 dec (5)
stitched closed.
Row5-Row6: 5 sc (5)
Here’s how this piece looks like.
Row7: 5 sc (5), Turn without making a tch
The upper part should be slightly longer and
Row8: sk 1, 2 sc, 1 dec (3)
narrower. The lower part should bend when
CY-PO
stuffed inside the upper part.
Bottom view:
Next, you’re going to work 2 rows of sc around

the upper part (make sure it’s the upper one!).
Join on the left side (at your right), and work:
Lateral view:
1 st sc, 5 sc on the left side

3 sc on the front
6 sc on the right side Stuff R1 to R10!
and a 1 surface sc on the side
9
Pro tip
Some of the parts (especially ears, whiskers and
horns) might be bending as they please, and need
to be kept in position. You could do so with a few
drops of fabric glue strategically placed here and
there. I usually dip the tip of a pin in glue and I
use it to gently apply a very small amount to the Do the same on the other side.
piece. Then, I pin the piece in the desired position, Hide the tails left inside the work and secure
and I let it dry. them. Make sure the two ears are symmetrical,
and the right side of the crochet is facing towards
you.
Ears The following is a top view, you’re looking at the
upper half of the mouth.
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm
Work normally
Work YO
Work with red yarn
Pull up a loop 2 sts away from the end of the
mouth.
Horns x 2
Work normally
Work YO
Work with turquoise yarn
Note that the two ears should be symmetrical, Work the horns between R3 and R4 leaving 1
and with the right face of the crochet work facing free st between them. Note that the right side of
towards you! the crochet work should face you for both horns.
Work: Pull up a loop.
ch 9,
sk 4, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc
CY-PO
Then work:
ch 5,
Work starting from second loop from hook
1 sl, 3 sc,
10
Teeth x 2
Work normally
Work YO
CY-PO
Work with white yarn split in half (to make it
Make 2.
thinner)
The right crochet side of both horns should face
ch 4,
towards you.
Work starting from second loop from hook
Fasten off and hide all the tails left (insert them
1 sl, 2 sc,
inside the head and secure them with a knot is
enough).
Make 2.
Glue the teeth to the inner side of the mouth, wait
until it dries up.
Mustache x 2
Work normally
Work YO
Work with yellow yarn
ch 7, CY-PO trim very short.
Make 2.
Insert the starting tail inside, secure the tails
inside with a knot or a bit of glue. You can also fix
the two pieces externally to the sides of the
mouth with a bit of glue (you might want to also
place the nose first, to make sure the pieces are
well centered).
Nose
Work normally
Work YO
Work with cherry yarn
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: (1 inc, 1 sc) x 3 (9)
R3: 4 sc, IJ (you don’t complete the round) (9)
11
Glue the eyes to the head. Try to give him a nice

expression. In particular, try to avoid making him
cross-eyed (the eyes should not point in different
directions).
Then stuff the rest of the head, and sew the

mouth closed using the tapestry needle and red
yarn. The upper part of the snout overlaps with
the bottom one.
Eyes x 2 Eye orbits x 2

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Crochet hook: 2.0 mm
Work normally Work normally
Work YO Work YO
Work with white yarn Work with red yarn
R1: Work in a MR: 4 sc, 6 hdc, 1 sc (11) This part is worked in rows.
R1: ch 9 (8)
R2: 8 sc (8)
Weave in start and end tails.
Make 2.
Place the eye in the middle, secure it with the

washer.

Glue these pieces around the base of the eyes.
R2: 3 sc, 6 hdc, 2 sc (11)

R3: 11 sc (11)
FO
The safety eye should be completely covered in
height.
Make 2.
12
----------------------
R9:
red 6 sc
Body (10)
yellow 4 sc BLO
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm ----------------------

Work tight R10:
Work YU red 6 sc
Work with red yarn yellow 4 sc
R1: ch 5 (4) (10)
R2: 4 sc (4) ----------------------
R3: 4 sc in FLO, turn around, 4 sc in the loops left R11:
(8) red 6 sc
yellow 4 sc BLO
(10)
----------------------
R12:
red (1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc )
yellow 4 sc
(12)
----------------------
R13:
red 8 sc
yellow 4 sc BLO
(12)
----------------------
R14:
red (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 2 sc
yellow 4 sc
(14)
----------------------
R15:
red 10 sc
Keep working in rounds. yellow 4 sc BLO
R4: 8 sc (8) (14)
R5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (10) ----------------------
R6: 10 sc (10) R16:
R7: red 10 sc
6 sc red, change color to yellow 4 sc
yellow, 4 sc (10) (14)
Remember that the color change should always ----------------------
be done yarning over with the new color when R17:
completing the previous sc. red (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) x 2
Cut the yarn, secure new and old extremities with yellow 4 sc BLO
a knot inside the work and trim each round. (18)
Dragging the yarn around without cutting it or ----------------------
working tapestry will give you a different result. R18:
---------------------- red 14 sc
R8: yellow 4 sc
red 6 sc (18)
yellow 4 sc ----------------------
(10)
13
R19: R39: Hold the piece together and work the next
red (2 sc, 1 inc) x 4, 2 sc round by inserting
yellow 4 sc BLO the hook in both layers to close the piece, 3 sc
(22) (see diagram below).
----------------------
R20:
red 16 sc, 1 dec
yellow 2 dec
(19)
----------------------
R21:
red 2 dec, 9 sc, 2 dec
yellow 2 sc
(15)
----------------------
Stuff the body.
If you want to improve Mushu’s pose and stability,
Tch changing color to to cherry, turn
you can insert a small wire skeleton inside the
Work:
body and the tail.
Row1: sk 1, 2 sc (2)
Row2: ch 4, 3 sc working from second loop from
hook, don’t cut, ch 2, 1 sc, CY-PO
Fasten off. Use the end tail to secure the cherry

portion, and hide what’s left.
R22:
red 2 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec
yellow 1 dec
(10)
----------------------
From now on, keep working in red.
R23: 2 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec (6)
R24-R38: 6 sc(6) (working around the metal
wire).
14
Bend the body into the correct shape!

If you’re not using the wire, you could sew or glue
the tail to the body, to keep it up. Feet
Arms Work normally
Work YO
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work with red yarn
Work normally Pull up a loop in correspondence with the 6th FLs
Work YO line.
Work with red yarn
Pull up a loop in correspondence with the first line
of FLs left.
Work: Work:
ch 8, ch 4,
working from second loop from hook, [3 dc] all worked in the very first loop made
1 sl, 1 sc, (skipping the first 3 loops from hook)
ch 2, CY-PO.
working from second loop from hook,
1 sc,
5 sl going back to the starting point.
Hide the tails left.

Do the same on the other side.
Both “thumbs” should point upwards. To achieve
this, one arm will have the right side of the
crochet work facing towards you, the other will
have the wrong side instead.
Use the tail left to secure the foot laterally, a
couple of rounds below (on the color change line).
15
Gong
Work normally
Work YO
Start with mustard yarn. You’re also going to need
brown
Do the same on the other side. This piece is worked in joint rounds. End each
round with a sl in the 1st sc of the round, and
make a ch 1, then proceed following the
instructions for the next round. The 1st stitch of
the next round should be worked in the same sc
where the sl was made.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
R4: 18 sl (18)
Make a ch 20 using brown yarn.
Use the brown tails left to secure this piece onto
the gong. Instead of hiding the tails, use them to
embroider the details on the gong using back
stitches.
Glue the head

Glue the head onto the body.
You should make the starting chain of the body
correspond with Row11 of the head. Then glue
together the first rounds of the body and part of
the bottom side of the mouth.
16
Congratulations!
Your Mushu is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture or tag me if you
post on Instagram (more info in the license page!)
17

Mushu-Patrón de Amigurumi

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

A message for you!

If you like my work and wish for me to keep writing

Let me thank you once again for your love and

DO NOT reuse my pictures.

This pattern is intended for personal use only.

For left-handed people

smaller than indicated to better work the body

Materials which the stuffing would be visible or fall

Note on the eyes

Note on the yarn

And work the upper half of the mouth in the

Then work 1 surface sc on the side, inserting

Now Row1 is complete (8), Turn without making

turn without tch,

Next, you’re going to work 2 rows of sc around

1 st sc, 5 sc on the left side

Glue the eyes to the head. Try to give him a nice

Then stuff the rest of the head, and sew the

Eyes x 2 Eye orbits x 2

Place the eye in the middle, secure it with the

R2: 3 sc, 6 hdc, 2 sc (11)

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm ----------------------

Fasten off. Use the end tail to secure the cherry

Bend the body into the correct shape!

Hide the tails left.

Glue the head

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