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The Beginner’s Guide to Different Kinds About TakeLessons

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When it comes to sewing, if you’ve only familiarized yourself with Find Sewing Lessons
the basic running stitch, then it’s time to broaden your horizons.
There are many different types of sewing stitches that allow you New York City Los Angeles
to achieve certain goals. For example, if you want to sew an Washington DC San Diego
eyelet, you’ll want to master the blanket stitch, but if you’re Chicago Orlando
looking to add a clean finish to a raw edge, go for a zigzag stitch Boston Miami
using a sewing machine.  San Francisco Seattle
Philadelphia Atlanta
In our hand sewing and sewing machine stitch guide, we’ll review Houston Phoenix
the many different sewing stitches and even discuss seam Austin Dallas
finishes. Follow our tips and tricks, and if you’re looking for even Indianapolis Las Vegas
more information, check out these helpful sewing resources, too.
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Before delving into the various types of sewing stitches, you’ll
need to stock up on some sewing tools. Although going the
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cheaper route may be tempting, we recommend investing in
high-quality tools that will last. Begin by purchasing these Learn Spanish
sewing supplies: Learn ASL
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Needles Learn English
Thread
Sewing scissors
Small ruler
 Small ruler
Tailor’s chalk or a marking pencil
Straight pins
Narrow and wide bias tape
Hem tape
Stretch lace 

Also, if this is your first time dabbling in the world of sewing, you
may want to brush up on some sewing terms and vocabulary. For
instance, before you can excel at basic sewing stitches, you’ll
need to know the difference between a sem and a hem.

The Various Types of Hand Stitching

Of course, knowing some basic sewing stitches by hand comes in

handy when you don’t have access to a sewing machine, but
that’s not the only reason you might want to turn to these
stitches. Many sewers prefer basic sewing stitches by hand when
they’re dealing with delicate fabrics or looking for more control.
These stitches to sew by hand also let you create flawless
corners and more intricate details. Getting a handle on these
different sewing stitches on clothes can make a world of
difference when it comes to your sewing projects. 

Running Stitch

The running stitch is one of the most basic types of hand stitches,
and it has many variations. It’s used for gathering, mending, and
tucking. Depending on its use, you can either knot your thread
or take a couple of back stitches to lock it into place. In its longer
form, it becomes a basting stitch.
Bring your needle through the fabric from the back (wrong side).
Once the knot hits the fabric, make a stitch to the left or right.
Bring the thread back up and repeat.

Basting Stitch

Use the same technique as the running stitch, but make longer
stitches (between 1/4 inch and a 1/2 inch).

Today, we tend to pin baste more than hand baste our garments
and projects, but hand basting can still be useful, especially with
both lightweight (silk and chiffon) and heavyweight (leather and
Melton) wools.

Backstitch

Before sewing machines, all clothes were built by layer upon

layer of backstitches. This is one of the most practical hand
stitch to know.

Working from left to right, take a small stitch, then insert the
needle at the end of the previous stitch, bringing it out beyond the
point where the thread emerges. Continue, always inserting the
needle in the end of the previous stitch.

Catch stitch (Cross-Stitch)

You can use this stitch to to finish hems with fabric that doesn’t
fray, and to tack facing invisibly.

Working from left to right, take tiny stitches on the hem, and then
on the garment. Keep the stitches loose and even. They will
appear as crosses on the wrong side and small stitches on the
right.

Slip Stitch

This stitch is my go-to stitch when it comes to hems and other

finishes. It’s tidy and almost invisible, when it’s done right, and
with care on both sides. Once you get the hang of it, this stitch
will be one of your favorites, too.

Bring the needle through the fold of the hem and pick up a thread
of fabric at the same point. Make the stitches about a 1/2 inch
apart and fairly loose.

Blanket Stitch (Buttonhole Stitch)

If you want to sew eyelets or buttonholes by hand, learn the

buttonhole stitch.

Secure the thread on the wrong side of the fabric, then with the
right side facing upward, insert the needle from back to front
right side facing upward, insert the needle from back to front
through the fabric 1/8 inch from the edge. Wrap the working
head around behind the eye end of the needle, then behind the
point. Pull the needle through, bringing the knot to the fabric
edge. Continue, making closely spaced stitches and knot.

The eyelet version is worked in a circle, with the wrapped edge to

the inside; the blanket stitch variation has at least a 1/4 inch
spacing between stitches.

Sewing Machine Stitches

Once you have an understanding of basic hand sewing stitches,

it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with some of the most
common sewing machine stitches. After all, using a sewing
machine allows you to make stronger and more durable stitches.
It’s also easier to use a sewing machine when you’re working
with heavier fabrics. Follow our sewing techniques machine stitch
guide below for help mastering these stitches, and you’ll be all set
to take on some easy sewing projects, such as headbands and
drawstring bags. 

Standard Forward / Backward Stitching

Begin straight stitching 1/8-3/8 inch from the fabric edge.

Backstitch the forward stitch over the pinned or basted seam.
Repeat the reverse stitch to finish.

You can use the straight stitch for seams, under stitching, stay
stitching, and simple top stitching.
ZigZag Stitch

The zigzag stitch provides a clean finish to raw edges, and you
can use it as a finish technique in combination with a stay
stitching line. You can adjust both the width and length of this
stitch to fit the needs of your project. For example, use this stitch
if you’re hemming jeans with a sewing machine.

Buttonholes

The good news is that most sewing machines can make

buttonholes, either with a fully-automatic buttonhole foot
attachment, or in the case of some mechanical and most
computerized machines, a pre-programmed buttonhole.

Check your machine’s manual for these details.

Blind Hem Stitch

This sewing machine stitch consists of two or three straight

stitches, and then one wide zigzag/catch stitch. Just as in the
hand-stitched version of the blind hem, the fabric is folded under
and away with the hem edge just projecting. 

Seam Finishes

Now that you’ve got the hang of the different sewing stitches, it’s
on to seam finishes. You will use seam finishes to prevent fraying
and ensure that the seam will survive wear and tear. Before
choosing a specific seam finish, consider the type of fabric, the
strength and type of seam you want, and the way you want your
strength and type of seam you want, and the way you want your
seam to look.

Related: Learn how to hem jeans by hand or machine

Zigzag

You can use a zigzag finish on most types of fabric. Once the
seam is sewn and pressed open, zig stitch the raw edge and and
trim away the excess. The width and length of this can
vary depending on the fabric weight. There is a variation where
the seam-edges are trimmed to half their depth, zigzagged
together, and pressed to one side.

Turn and Stitch

This is mainly used on crisp cottons. Fold and press the seam,
allowing a 1/4 inch, and machine stitch along the folded edge to
finish. The seams are then pressed open, or to one side,
depending on the pattern’s directions.

This creates a tidy finish and wears quite well.

Bias Tape

This is mostly used on unlined jackets and skirts.

Using purchased 5/8 inch bias tape, enclose the raw edge with
the tape and stitch through all layers. Commercial bias tape
is slightly wider on one side; that side should be on the
underneath the fabric.

You can also make your own bias tape in contrasting or matching

fabric.

Pinked Seams

Pinked seams are the simplest of seam finishes. Using pinking

shears, trim away as little of the seam allowance as possible.
This version is best used on wools and polyester fleece and is not
very hard wearing.

A better version of this finish is to machine stitch 1/4 inch from

the seam, then trim the edges with pinking shears.

Hand Overcast

The hand overcast seam finish is used as an alternative to the

zigzag stitch in small areas or on very thick
fabrics.

Taking very loose stitches, overcast the raw seam edges by hand.

Top Stitch
Top Stitch

The top stitch creates a hard hem line, and can be used to
strengthen a seam or as a decorative finish.

Press the seams opens and then stitch in place from the wrong
side. The seam are often pinked beforehand, sometimes with
a contrasting bobbin thread.

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Learning the Different Kinds of

Stitches
Although we covered quite a few types of stitches, this is only the
beginning. As you become more proficient with hand sewing
stitches, you will discover even more techniques for you to
master. 

If you’re looking to dive deeper into the many different types of

sewing stitches, turn to our sewing lessons to get more in-depth
insight on how to stitch. With the help of a certified instructor,
you’ll be sewing up a storm before you know it. 

Do you have questions or feedback about these different kinds of

stitches? Let us know in the comments below.
 stitches? Let us know in the comments below.

Post Author: Cathy G.
Cathy teaches sewing, and designs
clothing and knitwear in Astoria,
NY. An all-around crafty gal, she
can drape and draft patterns, hand
spin and weave, embroider, make
lace, and style
wigs. Cathy graduated with a
degree in American Studies from Mount Holyoke College.
 Learn more about Cathy here!

Cathy teaches sewing lessons, and designs

clothing and knitwear in Astoria, NY. An all-
around crafty gal, she can drape and draft
patterns, hand spin and weave, embroider,
make lace, and style wigs. Cathy graduated
with a degree in American Studies from Mount
Holyoke College.  Learn more about Cathy here!
Cathy G.

9 thoughts on “The Beginner’s Guide to

Different Kinds of Stitches”

1. Linda says:
October 28, 2015 at 12:50 am

What a fantastic in depth resource. A really great beginner

starting point. I especially love the infographic!!