NISSAN NAVARA & PATHFINDER

DUPLEX CAM CHAIN CONVERSION GUIDE

For Nissan D40 Navara and Nissan R51 Pathfinders powered by the YD25 engine ONLY
This guide is for the Billcar Duplex conversion kit ONLY

For more information on the kit please call Billcar on (0)1743 450044

Written by Richard Stock, with the help of Darren Ball

(Revision 4.0)

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Advice Using this Guide

I have written this guide to enable you to be able to do a Billcar Duplex chain conversion on either
your Nissan Pathfinder R51 or a Nissan Navara D40 powered with the Nissan YD25 engine. This
Guide is for the Billcar kit only. Even though I have tried to explain the method in as much detail and
as plainly as possible, if you do not have much experience with car mechanics or if you need to use
the car on a daily basis (it can’t be off the road for any period of time) then I would HIGHLY
recommend you getting done by Billcar. If however you are pretty good with a spanner and have a
good an understanding of mechanics then there is no reason why you cannot do this yourself if you
have help from a friend who is also likeminded.

IMPORTANT - I am a car enthusiast and NOT an industry trained mechanic/technician, I have no

affiliation with Nissan or Billcar. If you decide to use this guide or any part of this guide then all
accountability and responsibility is fully owned by you and I am not responsible for any issues that
may arise, damages to parts, car, Injury etc. that may result. You use this guide and the advice at
your own risk.

This guide was written as I did the work on my 2007 Nissan Pathfinder (R51), this car shares the
same engine as the Nissan Navara D40. I did this with some help and advice from a very good friend
who is actually a fully qualified mechanic (not Nissan) also with the help and advice of Billcar and the
use of the Nissan service manuals. Due to year and model differences this guide may not be exactly
the same as what you may be presented with; this is where you need to have an understanding of
mechanics to work out these things yourself.

I would advise you read this document first and understand it FULLY before you attempt the
conversion, ask as many questions as you want in the thread this document was on and I will try to
answer them all but make sure you know what is involved before you start work.

Right with all that out of the way let’s get started.

Tools you will need

 A Friend or helper (unless they are a tool).

 A Set of Spanners (Ideally ratchet spanners, I would also recommend a set of Stubby Ratchet
spanners too).
 A good quality socket set with long reach and impact sockets.
 A Good quality set of ratchets (For those tight spaces – Cheap ones have more play in them).
 Viscous Fan pulley holder.
 Crank Pulley removal tool – with bolts.
 Crank Pulley Holder.
 3/2 Legged Gear puller (Long reach is advised but not necessary).
 A Full Male and Female Torx Set (Make sure you have a T70 Male).
 A Set of pry bars (The Clarke ones from Machine mart are good value).
 A Good Quality ½” Breaker Bar (with long handle).
 A Sturdy Vice (for modifying tools should you need to).
 Seal removal tool or a selection of Picks.
 Single Razor Blade (for removal of old liquid gasket).
 Fuel pump Locking tool (Blue Print make this tool, or you can use a 6mm drill bit).

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  A set of Screwdrivers (Make sure you have a large sturdy flat head one).
 Brake Cleaner (best bought in Aerosol form probably need 3 cans).
 Lots of Workshop Towel (Costco have good prices on this at the moment).
 10ltr Oil drain pan and Coolant drain pan with pouring snout.
 A Can of WD40 or Similar release agent.

Parts you will need to order beforehand

 Obviously the Billcar Duplex Conversion kit, this includes the new duplex sprocket Vacuum
pump, upper and lower duplex chains, the duplex crank and fuel pump sprocket all the
guides needed as well as the oil seals for the oil pump, vacuum pump and galleries. This kit
does not include the upper chain cam sprockets (these should be fine to reuse).
 New engine oil (as you will be using brake cleaner to clean the chains etc. this will thin the oil
if you leave it in) and don’t forget a new filter.
 New upper chain cover gasket (not necessary but you may as well as it costs peanuts)
 New Aux and PAS pump belts (advised).
 New coolant (unless you want to keep the old – May as well replace with new).
 Approved Liquid Gasket.
 A length of 4mm Rod (at least 30cm in case you make mistakes).

Method

1. Remove engine cover, there are two bolts on top of the cover (Orange Arrows) once these
are removed the cover will pop off (Pull upwards).

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2. Remove the right hand side bracket for the engine cover, there is a single bolt for this.

3. Remove the both the pre and post Intercooler boost pipes and cover the Intercooler pipe
holes with a workshop glove or workshop towel to stop any debris from entering the
intercooler.

4. Remove the lower front bumper plastic trim section. There are 6 bolts securing this to the
front bumper, once removed then remove the lower metal tray shield (be careful seized
bolts will break off – Use plenty of WD40)

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5. Now while you are under the car drain the engine Coolant, some radiators will have a drain
plug, this is located on the left hand side at the bottom (if you face the front of the car),
undo the drain plug and empty coolant into a suitable container. If the coolant is old then
replacement is advised. Some will not have a drain plug ... like mine! In which case you may
get a little wet. Undo the lower rad hose and drain into container… you will probably get wet
and so will your floor, so make sure you have a mop or lots of towels to mop up any spills.
6. Drain the engine oil, undo the oil filler cap on the engine and then get under the car and look
for the drain plug on the oil sump, Make sure you have an oil receptacle to drain your old oil
into, bear in mind it will need to hold at least 7.5 litres (it will drain less than this but you will
find it hard to move the container without spilling if its right at the top) I would recommend
popping on EBay and purchasing a 10ltr oil drain pan with snout. Undo the Drain plug bolt
slowly and bring the drain pan up to the sump when the old oil starts to drip from the bolt,
then undo the bolt completely but hold the bolt against the threads when fully undone and
make sure you have a good grip on the bolt and then take away quickly, your oil will now
drain into the pan with minimal oil on your hands/running down your arm. Put the bolt
somewhere safe as you may as well leave the engine to drain fully while you are doing the
chains.
7. Remove radiator coolant hoses completely (i.e. remove off engine), there are two, one at
the bottom on the right hand side and one at the top on the same side.
8. Unplug the Auxiliary/Air con electric Fan, this is held on by a couple of clips etc.
9. Unbolt viscous fan radiator shroud, there are two screws holding this onto the radiator.
10. Remove Auxiliary/Air con electric fan assembly, there is a bolt at the top of the unit which
bolts into the rad, remove this bolt, get under the car and you will see where the fan
assembly locates into the radiator mounting frame, push up the fan unit while holding the
frame and it will slide out (Be aware it will probably fall forward)
11. Remove viscous fan from Pulley (If you don’t have a viscous fan holder then undo bolts with
ratchet spanner and hope the last one isn’t too tight)
12. Once viscous fan is released push fan shroud forward and the fan will come out between the
radiator and the shroud (be careful not to damage the fins on the rad)
13. Unbolt radiator top brackets – CAUTION these bolts will be rusty and will snap off when
undoing them so use plenty of release agent (WD40) to help aid the bolts out, they will
probably still break off but you may be lucky.
14. Unbolt radiator from air con condenser there are two bolts that go into the radiator housing
from the condenser side, push the assembly forward and undo these bolts
15. Get under the car and push the Air con condenser up via the two mounting points at the
bottom this will release the condenser from the radiator mounts, CAUTION Do not push up
on the condenser core itself, it’s very fragile.
16. Once condenser is released push radiator forward and lift up making sure you do not
damage the condenser on removal
17. The condenser can be left hanging by its pipes. **TIP** If you are concerned with damaging
it, use some string to take the stress off the pipes and pop the metal tray that you took off
earlier and place it in front of the condenser... This will stop you striking the core with tools
etc.

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18. Remove the EGR cooler by undoing the two bolts that secures the EGR pipe to the throttle
body and the 3 bolts securing the centre section. There is also a large bolt for the EGR cooler
unit bracket to undo and remove, make sure you keep the gaskets in a safe place do not
bend them. Remove the upper bracket which is secured by a bolt into the cylinder head.

19. Tuck the EGR cooler assembly (no need to remove the hoses) backwards onto the top of the
engine.
20. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body on, once removed tuck body back onto
engine (keep gaskets and bolts safe)
21. Remove Aux/Alternator belt by releasing the tension on the pulley tensioner by turning the
adjusting screw anti clockwise then push the pulley downwards this will release the Aux belt.
22. Remove the steering pump belt by undoing the tensioner pulley bolt
23. Remove both belts and check for cracking – order new if needed (May as well order new
ones to be honest as this will save you time in the future).
24. Unbolt belt tensioners from engine (install bolts back into engine for safe keeping)
25. Unbolt PAS pump from engine (Install bolts back into engine for safe keeping). The upper
Cam chain cover will now be accessible for removal.
26. Remove upper chain cover in the REVERSE order shown in the diagram.

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27. Pull the chain cover forward making sure the location dowel does not fall into the engine as
it may be loose **TIP** If you have one, put a strong magnet on the outside of the cover as
shown here, this will keep the dowel from falling out (if its loose) when removing the cover.

28. Upper chains will now be exposed. Use plenty of brake cleaner to remove oil from chain and
sprockets so you can see the coloured chain links and marks on the sprockets.
29. Clean the upper chain cover (so you have a nice clean install) and put install new rubber
edge gasket into the cover (removal of the old one will show you how to install the new
one).
30. To remove the lower chain cover you have to remove the lower crank pulley first, use the
crank pulley locking tool to lock the pulley (make sure it has a long handle and is up to the
job – we had to modify a tool to do it in the end (which involved a lot of welding extra metal
to it).
31. With a large good quality (I cannot emphasise this enough) sturdy breaker bar (at least ½”
with a long handle extension) undo the crank pulley bolt anti clockwise – It is very tight (you
will need at least two people for this one to hold the pulley holder and one to use the
breaker bar).

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32. Once the pulley bolt is loose, you have to make sure the engine is at TDC on its compression
stroke on No.1. This is indicated by the three coloured links on the upper chain, these have
to match the marks on the chain sprockets, this will require turning the engine manually by
the crank pulley. To do this use a ½” ratchet and the same socket to turn the engine
clockwise, this will do the crank bolt up very slightly but not enough so you cannot undo it
afterwards. Keep turning the engine clockwise until all the marks line up (for reference we
had to turn the engine to the chain did a full rotation at least 20 times – time consuming)

33. Once the chain matches the marked positions on the sprockets you can remove the lower
crank pulley, use the crank pulley locking tool and undo the crank bolt (this will be easy now)
34. Once pulley bolt is out use a crank pulley puller to remove the crank pulley, there are two
holes in the pulley for this. There are various pullers on the market so for instructions on
how to actually use your tool and remove the pulley refer to your puller instructions. If you
are not sure what I mean refer to this image.

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35. Once the crank pulley is off the car you will be able to start to remove the lower cam chain
cover. Undo the lower oil pump bolts, from the sump there are 3 bolts two long and 1 short,
you will need to access these from under the car. Look up at the front of the Sump and you
will see 3 bolts heads, you will need to use either a long reach socket to get them or a socket
extension bar.
36. Then it’s time to undo the front cover bolts in the REVERSE order shown in this diagram
**TIP** Number the bolts, Get some sturdy card punch 11 holes in it, number them 1 -11
and install the relevant bolts in the correct holes so you know the order and sizes of the
bolts for reinstallation.

37. The lower cover is sealed on with liquid gasket therefore will require a bit of gradual stress
force to remove it. Use a large pry bar on the upper pry tab (see orange arrows in picture)
and with a gentle but firm rocking motion pry the cover slowly. Once a gap appears use a
trim removal tool (or other non-metallic item) to keep the cover from popping back, then
move to the next tab and do the same again, this will start to pop the cover off – keep using
light but firm movements and the cover will eventually come away. Once released pull lower
cover and oil pump towards you and upwards this will then come away from the locating
dowels.
38. The lower chains, sprockets and balancer gears will now be exposed, again clean all the
chain and sprockets with brake cleaner so you can see all the necessary marks etc. once all
clean and you can go about locking the balancer idler gear.
39. To lock the Idler gear take some 4mm aluminium rod and measure the width of the idler
gear and bend the rod at a right angle, then file down the right angle part of the locking tool
so you can push the rod into the hold on the idler gear. Turn engine clockwise by using the
fuel pump sprocket (you need a male T70 torx socket for this) and use a 17mm socket on the
left cam bolt to keep the chains in tension. This will bring the hole in the gear to the top and
you then can install your locking tool. Once you have installed the locking tool turn the
engine anti clockwise back to TDC.

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40. Clean the crank and idler gears with brake cleaner and dry off, then mark the crank gear with
the Idler gear with a paint pen and allow it to dry for a few minutes (perhaps make a cuppa).

41. Use a 2 finger gear puller to start to remove the crank gear. **TIP** I used a spare 12mm
bolt and washer the diameter of the crankshaft shaft for the gear puller, install this into the
crank bolt hole and then use this as the push point for your gear puller, this will enable you
to use the puller to remove the crank gear fully. Once removed do not move the balancer
assembly gears and take care not to wipe off the marks you have made.
42. You can now start to remove the chains from the car, first the upper chain needs to be
removed. To do this push the plunger of the tensioner inwards with the use of a flat headed
sturdy screwdriver and lock with a push pin, if you do not have a push pin then some
welding wire will suffice. To get the location of where to install the push pin have a look at
your new tensioners in the Billcar kit. CAUTION do not remove the pins from the new
tensioners. Once the plunger is locked in place you can remove the tensioner and then
remove the tensioner arm taking care not to lose any bolts into the sump. The chain will
now be slack and you can start removal.
43. The lower chain is done the same way as the top chain. Push the plunger of the tensioner
downwards with a screwdriver and lock with a pin, then remove the tensioner making sure
you don’t lose it or the bolts down into the sump. Undo the tensioner arm and you will be
able to start to remove the chain.
44. To remove the lower chain you will need to undo the fuel pump sprocket. To do this use a
Male T70 torx bit to turn the centre of the sprocket so the fuel pump locking pin can be
installed into the pump. Once its located install the locking pin to lock the fuel pump
sprocket, then undo the 4 hex bolts around the sprocket (these are quite tight). The sprocket

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 will then be loose, then install a gear puller on the crank sprocket and pull it out around 1”
this will give you clearance under the gear so you can get the chain out - then remove the
fuel pump sprocket and take the chain off the crank sprocket. After the chain is removed use
the gear puller to remove the crank chain sprocket entirely.
45. To change the vacuum pump you need to undo the banjo oil feed as well as the vacuum
lines, this is easy and straightforward enough. Remove the two bolts on the back securing
the bracket to the pump and then the two bolts securing the bracket to the engine block,
this will then allow access to get to the mounting bolts for the pump flange. The two nearest
the edge are easy, the 3rd which is under the fuel pump is hard to get to (as you can’t see it)
and time consuming due to the restrictive space for tool movement. Once all bolts are out
the pump will still not be able to come out, to do this you will need to push the fuel pump
backwards.
46. To push the fuel pump backwards undo the two Torx (male) bolts securing the pump from
inside the chain area, then with a lever bar pry the pump backwards on the engine block side
around 5mm, this will give you clearance to remove the vacuum pump. Installation of the
new pump is reverse of removal. Install the new O ring onto the vacuum pump and slightly
smother the ring with a little engine oil, once new pump is installed (and done back up) push
fuel pump back into position and secure with the two Torx Bolts.

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47. Now comes the time to start to install the new Duplex sprockets and chains. Firstly clean up
the crankshaft sprocket shaft making sure not to loosen the woodruff keys and knock them
into the sump. Use a little brake cleaner and wait for it to dry, then smear some new engine
oil on the shaft and inside of the new duplex crank sprocket and place on the crankshaft.
Next get a wide punch put some electrical tape on the end and lightly tap with a hammer
against the sprocket. I tapped in a cross formation (top, then bottom then the left and then
the right) and did this a few times until it started to slide onto the crank. Once it’s located
properly in the first woodruff key, tap the top and the bottom to move the sprocket
backwards. Once it’s passed the first woodruff key keep tapping the top and it will slide back
fairly easily. When you are about 1” from the engine it’s time to install the chain. Line up the
marks on the chain with the relevant marks on the sprockets, then get your fuel pump
sprocket and install the chain on this as well. With a friend holding the fuel pump sprocket
and holding the bottom part of the chain so it does not snag on the housing, tap the
crankshaft sprocket backwards fully. Make sure your helper routes the chain correctly
around the new vacuum pump and making sure all the of slack is between the crank
sprocket and the vacuum pump sprocket (as this is where the tensioner and arm go).

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48. Once the chain is on you will then need to bolt the fuel pump sprocket to the fuel pump. To
do this rotate the fuel pump sprocket but make sure you do not rotate the crankshaft. There
should be a little slack for you to do this then you can install the locating pin to lock the
sprocket. Once the pin is installed, pop the 4 bolts into the cam sprocket and tighten in a
cross pattern (Top, bottom, left and right).

49. You will then need to install the three plastic guides, there are two running between the fuel
pump and the crank sprocket and one running from the crankshaft sprocket to the fuel
pump, install these with the green dot facing outwards.

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50. Then install the chain guide arm making sure you have the bolt and spacer the correct side.
Feed the loose chain over the guide and make sure at this point all the chain is properly
seated in the guides and there are no areas of the chain which are not fully engaged with the
sprockets.
51. Install the chain guide tensioner; this will be the smaller of the two and fits below the arm.
It’s quite fiddly this so pop some workshop towel down into the sump to catch anything in
case you drop something. While a friend holds the chain guide arm up put the top of the
tensioner in first, this will give you enough room to slide the bottom in, once in place/pop
the bolts in.
52. Before you go any further, double check the chain is all in place, the marks are ALL aligned,
and test fit the upper chain to make sure the timing mark on the fuel pump lines up properly
with the dark link on the upper chain (while making sure the yellow links on the upper chain
are also in the correct position). If not then release lower chain and adjust the position of
the fuel pump sprocket only so all the marks align - do not move the crank sprocket
otherwise you untime the engine. If all is well then pull the pin on the chain tensioner and it
will pop into place and that is the lower chain done.
53. Now install the crank balancer gear, in the same way you installed the crank sprocket tap the
gear onto the shaft. Hopefully if all being well the balancer sprocket which you locked with
the 4mm rod will not have misaligned slightly, mine did by about 1mm… If yours did read
the following … To rectify this use a large flat headed screw driver and position the blade of
the screwdriver head in between the outer and inner gear and twist in the correct direction
to align the two. When the gears are aligned get someone to fully engage the crank gear
onto the idler gear. Once it is engaged then you can continue tapping the crank gear flush to
the idler gear. If you have not rotated the balancer shafts then the paint lines that you made
will line up, if they do not then take the crank gear off and be prepared to spend a while
getting the position correct so it does line up - DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT
54. CAUTION when you are tapping the idler gear onto the crankshaft the vibration this causes
can dislodge the rear woodruff key (the one located on the crank sprocket) make sure this
does not dislodge, mine did and it fell into the sump, I spent the next hour with a borescope
trying to find it. **TIP** Get a friend to rest a flat head screw driver on the key to stop it
popping out.
55. If all the gears line up then hey presto you are done with the lower chains, sprockets and
gears, IMPORTANT - At this point do not move/rotate anything on the lower section until
the top chains are all installed as you will untime the engine.

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56. To install the top chain, install the guides and chain making sure the chain marks are ALL
aligned properly, then install the tensioner unit the same way you did the other unit on the
lower chain. Once all installed and are happy that the chain is fully engaged with all the
sprockets pull the pin on the tensioner. The timing chains are now done.

57. Now using the same method of turning the engine in point 38 to bring the idler sprocket
around so you can remove your idler gear locking tool. Once removed the hard parts are all
done and you can relax a little – Make another cuppa.
58. Take your oil pump and clean it up, it will be very dirty use lots of brake cleaner to remove
all the dirt from the casings this will help limit contamination on the new crank oil pump seal
when you put it on.
59. Now it’s time to spend a good amount of time clearing up, making sure your tools are clean
your work area is cleanish, wash your hands, collect your tools together locate all the parts
and pop them in a logical order, make sure you are not missing any bolts and then you can
proceed with getting the car back together.

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60. You will now need to remove all the old liquid gasket from the lower chain cover and the
chain case mounting surface on the engine. Use a little pick to pull the gasket out of the
ridge of the oil pump and chain housing, making sure it’s clean and there are no traces of it
left. Don’t forget that the two bolts that go through the centre of the pump housing need to
be done as well. Do the same on the mounting surface on the engine and exposed part of
the sump. This is a little painstaking so dedicate time to this, once it’s all out, clean with
brake cleaner to make sure there are no oils present.
61. Now it’s time to remove the old oil pump crank seal, this is fairly straightforward. Get a flat
headed screwdriver and tap the seal outwards from the inside of the pump, after a few
knocks with a hammer it will come free. Take some brake cleaner and clean the area where
the new seal will fit. Take your new seal taking care not to touch the inside of the seal and
smother the outside of the seal with a little oil then position it onto the oil pump. Take a
60mm socket and drive the new seal into place making sure it’s going in evenly. Once done
install a new lower O-Ring on the oil pickup hole at the bottom of the oil pump.
62. Now it’s time to add the new liquid gasket onto the sump and the oil pump housing.
Applying it is quite self-explanatory however make sure you apply a continuous bead of
liquid gasket into the grooves and where the groves stop for the bolt holes make sure you go
around the inside of the bolt holes.

63. Once applied to the sump and the oil pump housing it’s time to offer it up to the engine,
take care not to damage the new crank oil seal and take care not to dislodge the lower oil
pickup O-Ring locate the oil pump onto the locating dowels and slide back on to the engine,
now take the bolts that you should still have installed into the numbered card and do up in
the sequence on step 36 but in order not reverse. Once all front bolts are in install the
lower oil pump sump bolts, there are two long and one short.

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64. Now it’s time to install the crank pulley. Clean up the pulley surfaces and lightly cover with
oil, then start to tap the crank pulley on with a large socket. Once its tapped back and
located on the woodruff key install the centre pulley bolt, do it up hand tight, then lock the
pulley with the pulley holding tool. Take a 16mm impact socket and ratchet and whilst
holding the pulley tool with one hand do the bolt up with the other, each time you tighten
the bolt it will pull the crank pulley onto the shaft. Once it goes tight it’s in place. Take a
Torque wrench and tighten bolt to 75nm then undo completely. Then retighten to 75nm.
Then place an alignment mark on the bolt and pulley and turn the bolt 120 degrees (make
sure you measure the angle between the points) the bolt is now tight.
65. To install the top cover replace the rubber gasket that sits in the grooves (if you have not
already), then install the locating dowel into the cylinder head making sure it’s located tight
(give it a little light tap with a hammer or the end or a screwdriver just to make sure it’s
located properly). Install the internal guide that goes into the cover and then place the top
cover onto the engine. Then tighten the bolts in the order shown in this diagram.

66. That’s it! You can now start to install all the parts you removed.
67. Install the PAS pump; there are three bolts in total, two at the front and one on the rear that
bolts up to the engine.
68. Install the belt tensioner; there are two bolts for this again pretty self-explanatory.
69. Install the throttle body intake, there are 4 bolts for this and a square gasket installation of
this is easy.
70. Install the EGR Cooler, I found this a little fiddly actually mainly as I tightened as I went - the
trick is not to tighten anything until it’s all installed. First get the EGR pipe onto the intake
side (at the same time you may as well install an EGR blanking plate). Make sure the gasket
is in place do not tighten this up. Then loosely bolt the other side to the pipe running from
the exhaust, again do not tighten, then install the large lower bolt that supports the entire
unit. If everything was tight you will not get this bolt in. Once the bottom bolt is in tighten
the intake side, then tighten the other side, then add the upper bracket and tighten it all up.

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71. Now it’s time to install the belts while you have good access to the pulleys etc. Install the
Aux belt first and route the belt as directed in this diagram, then adjust the belt tensioner
until it’s at the specified stiffness.

72. Install the PAS belt in the same way, route according to this diagram and adjust the
tensioner to the required amount.
73. Now it’s time to start to reinstall the radiator. Firstly install the radiator onto its mounting
points, then get under the car and lift the condenser radiator up by its mounting points and
back into the two holes on the radiator housing and pop into place. Then bolt the condenser
to the radiator with the two bolts (bolt through from the condenser into the rad housing).
Place the radiator shroud in front of the radiator but do not fit as yet. With the shroud free
feed through the viscous fan and install onto water pump taking care not to damage any of
the radiator fins. Then take the Aux Fan assembly and clip it into the bottom of the radiator
housing, then bolt to the upper radiator mount and plug connector block in. Once that is all
installed clip the shroud into place and connect the upper and lower water hoses to the
radiator. Next install the upper radiator brackets and bolt the radiator down. For the
meantime leave off the metal and plastic under covers, you will need to gain access to see if
there any coolant/oil leaks coming from the engine when you run it up.
74. Now you need to fill the car with new oil. As the car is already drained down reinstall the
sump plug, then remove the old oil filter. To get to this you will need to unbolt the fuel filter
bracket. Take your new filter and smear the rubber ring with fresh oil, refit onto oil filter
housing and turn so its hand tight (i.e. as tight as you can turn it without the use of a tool)
Then remove the dipstick and clean it, take the oil filler cap off the engine and refill with
fresh oil using the dipstick to indicate the level in the sump. When at the correct level install
the dipstick and reinstall the oil filler cap.
75. Now this is another slightly painstaking part, refilling the car with coolant. If the system is
not bled properly then you may have issues down the line. If you are using Nissans own
coolant then you will need to purchase half the total coolant capacity of the car and it needs
to be mixed with water at 50/50 ratio. Once you have mixed your coolant you can start to fill
the radiator up. Take off the radiator filler cap and the expansion bottle cap; start to fill the
radiator with water however fill slowly so the air has time to escape.

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76. Now install the post and pre intercooler pipework removing the covers you put on in the
first place.
77. Connect up the battery. You can leave the engine cover off for now as you will need to get
good access to looking over the engine when it’s running.
78. Now it’s time to start the engine, the last nerve wrecking part, this is when you find out if
you have done it all correctly  Start the engine and hopefully it will start and run without
any issues at all (obviously if there are scary noises or if its running really badly then switch it
off). While the engine is running make sure the oil pump pressure light goes out, if it does
not after a few seconds stop the engine and check for leaks. If the light goes out then you
are fine.
79. Switch engine off and check oil level, top up if needed. Also check the coolant level, if it’s
dropped add some more.
80. Remove air relief plug then remove radiator cap. pour new engine coolant through engine
coolant filler neck. Do this slowly this will enable the majority of the air to escape.

81. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature without radiator cap and reservoir tank
cap installed. If engine coolant starts to overflow the radiator filler hole and reservoir tank
filler hole. Install the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10
seconds and return to idle speed with radiator cap installed. Repeat this procedure 2/3
times.

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82. Stop engine and let it cool down. Check the coolant level if necessary, refill radiator up to
filler neck with engine coolant. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.
Check the cooling system for leaks with engine running. Get into the car and check the
heater is hot. If it is cool then you still have air in your system, if this is the case repeat steps
80 and 81.
83. Take it out for a gentle drive and then check all areas again. If coolant has dropped then
repeat Step 82.
84. If you are clear of oil and coolant leaks then you can reinstall the lower under trays and
bumper trim which is the reversal of step 4.
85. Install the engine cover by installing the bracket you removed in Step 2 and then fitting the
cover on a bolting it down.

You are done!! Pat yourself on the back, have a well-earned cuppa and marvel in your smugness.

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