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Design of shoe models

BookDecember 2016

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KyivNational University of Technologies and Design
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 Ministry of Educationand sciences of Ukraine
KYIV NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN

FUNDAMENTALS OF DESIGNING
LEATHER PRODUCTS
Laboratory practice
from the course "Fundamentals of designing leather products" for students of
the training direction 6.051602 Technology of light industry products,
specialty "Designing shoes and haberdashery products"
forfull-time and part-time forms of education

PART1

Kyiv KNUTD 2013

UDC 685.34.016 (076)
Basics of product designfrom leather:Laboratory practice
from the course "Fundamentals of designing leather products" for students of the
training direction 6.051602 Technology of light industry products specialty
"Shoe designand haberdashery" fordaytime and
correspondence forms of education". Part 1 / Ref. L.P. Chertenko; V.P. Kernesh - K:
KNUTD, 2013. - 90 p.

Compilers:
L.P. Chertenko, candidatetechnical sciences, associate
professor; V.P. Kernesh, candidate of technical
sciences, associate professor.

Responsiblefor release
S.S. Harkavenko, managerDepartment of Design and Technology of Leather
Products, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor.

Approvedat the meeting of the Department of Design and Technology of

Leather Products. Protocol No. 1, dated September 28, 2013.

2
 LABNo. 1

RECEIPT OF CONDITIONAL DISCHARGEPADS (URK)

ACCORDING TO THE "ARS SUTORIA"
METHOD.
The goal of the work:
get acquaintedwith the method and obtain a scan of the lateral surface of the block
according to the Italian method.
Content of work:
1. Selectionand pad marking to obtain a sweep
2. Receivingsweeps from the outer and inner sides of the pad
3. Construction averaged pad sweeps (URK)
4. Breeding featuresURK depending on the type and design of shoes. control
questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

Selection and markingblocksIn order to obtain a conditional sweep of the side

surface, a shoe block of the average (initial) size of the required sex-age group is
selected in this way, all linear and girth dimensions of which must comply with GOST
3927-88. Lines of separation of the rear surface on the outer and inner side faces (Fig.
1) and the trace of the pad (insole face) are applied to the pad.

Fig.1 – Block marking

For this purpose, the following points are marked on the block: Vg - the top of
the crest; Nsl - the midpoint of the edge of the track in the leading part; Vk - the
midpoint of the edge of the trace in the heel part; B - the middle point of the rib of the
upper platform in the heel part; C - the point of the upper puncture of the bundles
3
(near the base of the comb).

4
 Lines of separation of the rear surface of the padin the heel part, it is carried out
through Vk and B, and along the ridge and in the toe-bundle part - through points Vg,
C and Nsl. (Fig. 1)

Getting a scanfrom the outer and inner sides of the pad.URK according to the
Italian method "ARS Sutoria" is obtained with the help of scotch tape. The scotch tape
used should adhere well to the surface of the block, deform slightly when pasted and
not stretch when removing the shell from the block.
Depending on the width of the tape rollone, two, or three strips are pasted on the
block from the sides. Sticking tape - the tape starts from the heel of the pad along the
geodesic line, that is, along the line connecting the most protruding point of the heel
and the end of the toe.
Pastingwithout folds, first the outer side surface of the block, then the inner
one. When gluing a strip of scotch tape, the tapes are placed one on top of the other
with an allowance on top of each other. From the first strip of scotch tape, the surface
of the pad is pasted up to the edge of the base platform, and then from the first strip of
doliface to the edge of the pad trace. Excess scotch tape - tapes are cut along the
boundary lines: the axial lines of the ridge and heel, the edges of the track and the
base platform.
The internal points are determined on the pasted blockand external bundles. The
block is installed so that the trace plane is vertical to the support surface (Fig. 2a), and
the middle of contact is marked in the most convex places of the beam from the outer
and then from the inner sides. To draw a calzate line, the marked points of the inner
Pv and outer Pn bundles are connected with a flexible tape, the width of which is 8-10
mm. The point of intersection of the calcata line and the axial line of the ridge is the
calcata point C (Fig. 2, b).
Internal incisions are made on a sheet of paper to flatten the URK. The distance
from the calzate point C along the axis of symmetry of the crest to the most
protruding point of the base platform is divided into three equal segments, and T. A
and T. B are obtained. On the outer URK, through the obtained T. A and T. B, lines
parallel to the line of the calzate are drawn using flexible line. Then the shell of the
URK is removed from the pad, starting from the heel to the toe, and cuts are made
along the planned parallel lines, not reaching 3-5 mm to the line of the ridge and trace,
fig. 2, c.
The resulting shell is flattenedn is pasted on the paper, starting from the heel to
the toe, without folds and wrinkles. At the same time, in the places of the cuts made
along the lines drawn from point A, point B and point C, discrepancies will be
formed. The resulting sweep of the outer side surface of the pad is cut out.
To obtain a scan of the inner side surface of the pad, the scan of the outer
surface of the pad, obtained earlier, is circled on a thin sheet of paper, t.P and t.Vk are
connected by a straight line (Fig. 2, d).
Draw a line in the middle of the conditional sweep of the outer side of the side
surface of the pad. Starting from the heel, draw parallel lines perpendicularlythe upper
platform of the template at a distance of 15-20 mm and

5
continuedraw them towards the toe, reducing the distance between parallel lines to 10
mm.

and)

6
 b)

in)

d)

e)
Fig.2 - Obtaining the averaged sweep of the pad (URK)

Cuts are made along the marked lines, leaving the jumper uncut along the lengththe
middle line of the sweep. The width of the jumper is 6-10 mm.

7
 The resulting template is cut outand glued to the inner side surface of the block,
strictly connecting it with the axial line of the crest and heel from the face of the base
platform. On the template, mark the contour of the insole face from the inner side of
the pad and remove it. The pattern of the inner side of the side surface of the pad is
obtained by cutting off the excess along the marked contour of the face of the trace of
the inner side surface of the pad.
Construction of the averaged sweeppads (URK).Sweeps of the side surfaces of
the outer padand the inner one are combined and the averaged sweep of the lateral
surface of the pad (URK) is obtained. For this, on a sheet of whatman paper, trace the
sweep of the outer side of the lateral surface of the pad and apply the inner one on it
so that the contours of the sweeps coincide along the axial lines of the heel and ridge
and along the edge of the upper platform. In this position, the lower contour of the
lateral sweep of the pad of the inner side is circled. The resulting URK is cut out.
It is transferred to hermark the point C. At this point, a tangent is drawn to the
contour, to which a perpendicular is set. The resulting segment is divided in half and
from the edges to the center, through cuts are made, not reaching the center by 2-3
mm (Fig. 2, e).

Features of breeding URKdepending on the type and design of the

shoesDepending on the speciesand shoe designs carry out breeding of URK (Fig. 3).
The sweep is shownin fig. 3,a is used in the construction of half-boots, designs
with a narrow seam in front, clogs, asymmetric designs, sports shoes of the "training"
and "derby" type. To build a normal URK along the line of the ridge in t. C, the
contour is diluted by 1-1.5 mm. At the same time, an overlap will be formed in the
lower part of the URK. In this position, the URK is fixed with scotch tape.
"Neckline"- used to build models of "shuttle" shoes and all open structures. To
obtain a "décolleté", the URK is thinned along the line of the trace by 5 mm from the
line of the calzate to the toe. At the same time, the toe part of the URK rises up and an
overlap is formed in the t.S. In this position, the URK is fixed with scotch tape (Fig. 3,
b).
URK for building boots with a pointed union and a moccasin insert. Unlike the
two previous URKs, the incision and dilution of the URK is performed in the
following way. From point C, a perpendicular is lowered - a line of calzates. It is cut
from the line of the trace along the entire length, not reaching t. C 2 mm, thereby
forming a jumper. URK is diluted along the line of the trace from the calzate line to
the toe by 8 mm for men's models and by 4 mm - for women's and children's models,
(Fig. 3,c).
For the construction of women's boots, the breeding of the URK is performed
along the line of calcates in the T.S. by 3-4 mm, reaching 2 mm to the lower contour
of the URK (Fig. 3, d).

8
 Fig.3 - Breeding of URK according to the Italian method, depending on
structuresand type of shoes

Controlquestion
1. How to prepare a block for receiving URK.
2. Construction of templates for receivingURK and pad footprint scans.
9
 3. Receivingconditional sweeps of the outer and inner side surfaces of
the block according to the Italian method.
4. Specificsaveraging patterns and obtaining a conditional sweep.
5. Breeding featuresURK depending on the type and design of shoes.

LABNo. 2

MODEL DESIGNWOMEN'S SHOES TYPE

"SHUTTLE"
The goal of the work:
get acquaintedwith the method of building boat-type shoes according to the Italian
method.
Content of work:
1. Working outdrawing on the pad
2. Construction of the structural basis of the "Decolte" line
3. Construction of the structural basis of "shuttle" shoes
4. Construction featurestop of shoes with an open heel part. control questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

Model shoes are distinguished by greater sophistication of the design, aesthetic
perfection of decoration,the quality of the materials, as well as the sophistication of
the form of the block on which it is made.
Model shoes especially gravitate towards constructive perfection,and therefore
the design process makes high demands on the model designer. The most suitable for
designing model shoes is the Italian method, which ensures high accuracy of design
and perfection of construction.
The design process beginsfrom drawing constructive lines on the prepared
surface of the pad. Next, the molding is cut along the structural lines and flattened.
Shoefor making model shoeshas a particularly refined shape, its style has the
second number 5. When choosing shoes individually, they are based on the length of
the foot and the girth in the bundles. The girth of the block in the bundles should be 5-
6 mm less than the corresponding parameter of the foot.
Shoe materials play an important role in the production of model shoesand
decorative decoration. Decorative decoration can be:
- Own decor – effect is achieved by account of manipulations
with the material of the top (draping, pinching, stitching, folds, etc.);
- Imposeddecor (rosettes, bows, fringe, etc.);
- Fittings (buckles, brooches, buttons, etc.);
- Inlay(using beads, rhinestones, buckles);
- Embroiderydifferent techniques;
- Creationtextures (by embossing, weaving, carving);

10
 - Perforation(using punches, laser);
- Causingdrawing (painting, prints, firing, etc.)

Preparation of the sweep for construction"shuttle" shoe.When usingcopy-

graphic method of designing shoes type
"shuttle",The URK for building the ground model is adjusted as shown in Fig. 4.

Fig.4 - Breeding of URK for building shoes

Working out the drawing onwellsBeforeby applying the future model to the
block, develop a sketch of the model in color with the application of structural lines
and taking into account the height of the heel. (Fig. 5)

Fig.5 – Development of a sketch in color

Ona "shuttle" model is drawn on the outer surface of the block

11
the image of all constructiveand decorative elements. The reference point for drawing
the upper edge is the line ВТА, which connects the height point of the shoes Вт (Вт =
0.15N +25.5) and the middle of the heel, point A (Fig. 6).

Fig.6 – Application of the structural basis of the shoes of the "shuttle"

type

To facilitate the search for the correct location of the neckline, it is better to rely
on control - auxiliary lines, which indicate the position of the line of the upper edge
depending on the height of the heel part.
Firstyou should find item 5 (Fig. 7), which corresponds to the 5th base line. To
do this, we measure the distance Np5 on the geodetic line NpN:

Нп5=0.78(НпН-Phew) (1)

Next, through point 5, draw a line parallel to the line of SPs bundles and mark
the points H5 and K5.
We divide the distance H5K5 in half andwe note that
We divide the distance KK5into three equal parts and mark the points a and a'.
anddetermines the position of the lineedging for a low heel, t. a' - for a medium
heel, t. K5 - for a high heel.
depthof the neckline determines the position of point C, which is located within
(-18mm÷+10mm) from the point of calzate.

12
 Vp

Np

In

C
H5
5
K
and N
Ps a'
K5

Fig.7 Applying the control grid and modeling the edging line of
model shoes of the "shuttle" type

The length of the toe part of the HnC union should benot less than 65 mm. The
width of the wing of the union in the narrowest place is at least 35 mm from the
outside and at least 40 mm from the inside. The fashion designer draws the contours
of the future model on the block, guided by the direction of fashion and aesthetic
requirements. Next, the URK is removed and flattened in the standard way.

Construction of the structural basis "Decolte".Construction of "Décolte"

shoesof the "shuttle" type begins with obtaining a structural basis. To do this, the
URC is circled on a Whatman sheet and the location of the calzate line is specified
using a right triangle. The apex of the right angle should lie on the ridge and coincide
with the point of calzate C (point C is transferred from the shell). One leg is located
relative to the ridge, but not more than 10 mm, and the second leg will determine the
position of the calzate line (Fig. 8).
The resulting segment SPn is divided in halfand cut the URK from above and
below to the middle, leaving a bridge of 2–3 mm.

13
 Fig. 8– Clarification of the location of the calzate line

Then the following adjustment is made: the toe part turns upwith the formation
of an overlay on the ridge of the pad by 5 mm, a discrepancy of the same amount
appears along the trail (Fig. 9). Adjustment is fixed with adhesive tape.

Fig. 9– Adjustment of URK

The resulting template is circledon whatman In the heel part, at point W, a

reduction of 2 mm is made for better tension of the upper edge. Along the line of the
track, the blocks retreat from the Vk point by 30 mm and connect the resulting point
with the point
14
Tuesday An incision is made along the obtained line, not reaching 2–3 mm to the W
point. The heel part is removed by 3 mm. This adjustment takes into account the
thickness of the hard back. Dilutions are fixed with sticky tape.
The heel rounding is drawnusing a special template. Along the trail, an
allowance is made for the trailing edge in accordance with the technological standards
for this fastening method (Fig. 10).
So,we get a structural basis that can be used in the construction of any shoe.

Fig. 10– Construction of the structural basis of "shuttle" shoes

To build the model drawn on the block, you need to remove the drawing using
a tracing paper, as described in work 1.
On whatman, the structural basis of "Décolleté" is outlined,a URK made of
tracing paper with the pattern of the model transferred to it is superimposed on it. The
tracing paper is applied to the "Décollete" in the following way: first, the toe part is
connected along the convex point of the NW and along the trace to the line of calzate.
In this position, the pattern of the model and the upper edge are twisted to the bundles.
Then the heel rounding at point V is connected, and the pattern of the model and the
line of the upper edge from the heel part to the bundles are cut along the trace, then
the tracing paper is absorbed. The line of inflection of the union is drawn through the
point of the union, which lies on the crest and the most convex point of the toe Nv.
The position of the line of the upper edge depends on the height of the heel: the
higher

15
heel,especially the asymmetric cut of the "shuttle" shoes. The line of the inner edge is
2–5 mm higher than the outer edge. For shoes with a low heel, the cut is symmetrical.
The line of inflection of the union is drawn through point C and the most convex point
of the toe Nv. The resulting drawing indicates all allowances for joining parts and
processing visible edges.

Construction of the structural basis of "shuttle" shoeswith an open heel

part.The height of the shoes(point W) with an open heel part is modeled 5–6 mm
higher than in closed shoes (STATE STANDARD 179-74).
Italian designers offer for medium size37 (240-245 mm) optimal approximate
parameters of open shoes when drawing a pattern on a pad (Fig. 11).
For open shoes, pads are designed with special dimensions along the trail. In
shoes with an open toe part, there should be a minimal decorative allowance along the
length of the foot (5 mm), and the width of the footprint in the heel part is increased
by 2 mm, in the heel part - by 1 mm, in relation to the dimensions of the footprint for
closed shoes.
Trace shapein the toe part, it is designed asymmetrically according to the shape
of the toe arch of the foot.
Open areas of the durable insolein the shoes of the adhesive method, the
fastenings are covered with the material of the top or insole to improve the
appearance.
Sizeand the shape of the cut of the toe part depend on the direction of fashion,
the height of the heel and the comfort of wearing. Given the fact that in low-heeled
shoes, the foot bends maximally in the metatarsal-phalangeal joint when walking, it is
not recommended to design the cutout of the toe part of the shoe through the joint of
the phalanges, so as not to injure them.

Controlquestion
1. How to find the point on the pad that corresponds to the 5th base line?
3. How to build a "neckline" for shoes?
4. What are the features of adjusting the URK for "shuttle" shoes?
5. Construction featuresthe structural basis of shoes with an open heel
part.

16
Fig. 11– Construction of the base of boat shoes with an open heel part
17
 LABNo. 3

ADAPTED DESIGN METHODOLOGYTYPE SHOE

"SHUTTLE"
The goal of the work:
get acquaintedwith the features of the construction of shoes of the "shuttle" type using the
adapted Italian method.
Content of work:
1. Buildingthe edging lines of the shoes on the block according to the developed sketch
2. Auditthe location of the union wing on the block in the heel part and its
editing
4. Construction of the top of the outer andinternal parts of the primer model of shoes
5. Substrate designfor "shuttle" type shoes. control
questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

For the design of model shoes, it is best to use the adapted Italian method, when
the URK is not removed completely, but is cut along the structural lines (Fig. 12).

Fig.12 - Applying the edge line of shoes on the surface of the pad

When drawing structural lineson the surface of the block, it is necessary to

focus on the following main points:
Union point (is locatedwithin -18 ÷ +10 mm from the point of the heel) Point
Height of the heel part is calculated according to the formula:

Vb=0.15Nm+25.5 (2) or
Vb=Nst+24 (3)
where Nm is the block number in the metric
system Nst is the block number in the metric
system

18
 Adjusting the wings of the shoes accordinglyto the block. After the removed
mold of the shoe is flattened, it is cut out and applied to the surface of the shoe so that
the point of union and the section of the bundles coincide. Next, the location of the
union wing in the heel part is checked (Fig. 13).

Fig.13 - Checking the location of the union wing in the heel part

For the best fit of the workpiece to the block and the strongest tension of the
upper edge, this wing should be oriented 7-9 mm higher than the level marked on the
block. If the wing is located lower, then the molding must be edited in the bundle area
by cutting the molding and overlapping at the level of the upper edge.

Impositionby 2-3 mm

Fig. 14- Adjusting the wings of shoes

19
 Fig.15 - The result of placing a mold on the pad after correction

Construction of the top of the outer and inner partsprimer models of shoes.
When the mold is adjusted, itis the basis for drawing the top of the shoes. (Fig. 15)
Inflection linethe union is built through point C', which is located below the
point of union C by 2-3 mm (Fig. 16). In the heel part, the primer model is cut by 4-5
mm along the edge to ensure the required tension. In the most convex point of the heel
and in the Vk, the contour of the base model coincides with the contour of the base-
cast.

20
 Fig.16 – Construction of the ground model

The inner part of the primer model of the top of the shoesof the "shuttle" type is
quite different from the outer part. To speed up and simplify the process of designing
the inner part of the drawing on the basis of the designed outer part, it is necessary to
circle the corrected molding (Fig. 17) and correct the line of the upper edge, as well as
add an allowance in the helen part along the contour of the edge of the trace
(approximately 15-20 mm):

Contourstemplate for building the inner w

Fig.17 - Construction of the template of the inner wing of "shuttle" shoes

Cuts are made in the helenic (Fig. 18) part of the obtained template to facilitate
applying the template to the surface of the pad. Next, this template is applied to the
inner part of the block, starting from the central
21
axis line. The excess pattern is cut along the line of the edge of the traceand the
correctness of the contour of the upper edge is checked. In addition, you should record
the degree of dilution or superimposition of the cut petals of the template in the area
of the heel part (this depends on the shape of the pad and the height of the heel):

Fig.18 Applying the template of the inner part of the shoes to the surface of the
pad.

If such separation or overlapping is more than 3 mm, then it must be taken into
account when designing the inner wing of the union. It is most convenient to do this
along the contour of the stitched seam, which separates the inner part of the union
from the inner cut-off butt. In the case of spreading the petals on the template, the
details of the union and the butt on the drawing will be superimposed on each other at
the level of the edge of the trace by the amount corresponding to the spreading of the
petals of the template in fig. 18. In the case of overlaying the petals of the template on
the drawing, the difference of the parts of the union and the butt at the level of the
lower contour should be provided for by the amount of overlaying of the petals.
Substrate designfor "shuttle" type shoes.Model shoes have their own features
of lining design. The heel part of the lining is built with an increased allowance for
trimming - 6-8 mm, which is necessary for fixing the wing of the workpiece on the
block when performing tightening and tightening operations (Fig. 20).
Skin pocketshould be lower than the total height of the heel by 15-18 mm. The
inner part of the lining under the butt is adjusted in accordance with the adjustment of
the top parts (diversified by 3-4 mm along the lower contour).
Another variant of the substrate (Fig. 21) provides for a trimming allowancethe
edges of the leather lining along the upper edging and is 4 mm, and the middle part of
the wing of the union (especially with the figured edging) - from 6 to 14 mm,
depending on the specifics of the tightening and stretching operations. It is necessary
for

22
fastening of the workpiece to the pad during tightening and tightening operations.
Attachment is carried outwith the help of texts. The edges of the leather lining are
trimmed directly on the block, but already after the workpiece is formed.

Fig.19 Construction of a drawing of the top of the outer and inner parts
ground models of the top.

The fold line of the lining under the union passes below the fold lineties by 1.5
mm at the cut point of the ties and by 3 mm in the toe part. Along the line of the
trailing edge, the lining is shorter in the toe-bundle part by 5 mm and in the heel-heel
part - by 3 mm.
The fold line of the substratein the heel part, it stands back from the upper part
by 1–2 mm along the edge, by 7–8 mm from the most convex point of the heel, and
by 4–5 mm – at the level of the trailing edge.
Or additional allowances are provided for the edgingat the level of the middle of
the wing of the joint (Fig. 21), while the width of the allowance is from 5 to 12 mm
and varies depending on the features of the tightening and stretching process at the
enterprise.

Controlquestion
1. Specificsadapted Italian way of designing.
2. How to check the location of the union wing in the heel part and in what case
do they adjust it?

23
3.. How to get the inner part of the primer model of the top of the shoe type
"shuttle" ifis there an adjusted molding of the outer part?
4. What are the twodesign options shoe lining and what does it depend on?

Fig. 20-Design of lining for model shoes"shuttle"

(option 1)

Fig.21 - Designing a lining for model shoes "shuttle"

(version2)

24
 LABNo. 4

DESIGN OF BELT STRUCTURES

The goal of the work:
get acquaintedwith the method of construction of strap constructions of shoes.
Content of work:
1. developmentmodel sketch
2. Construction of the structural basis of strappy shoeson the pad
3. Designingmarking insole
4. Construction of the assembly drawing of the belt structure
5. Construction of shoe liningbelt construction Control
questions
Theoretical information and methodological instructions
Model sketch development.Design of belt structureshas some fundamental
features. Although there are a huge number of construction types, they should have
one or more main straps that would fix the foot in the most important anthropometric
areas.
All the variety of belt structures can be conditionally divided into 3 types:
single-module, two-module and three-module. A module is understood as a strap of
any shape or configuration.
Single-module designs(Fig. 22) should be fixed either on the area of the
bundles, or with the help of a V-shaped strap passing through the first interdigital
space.

Fig. 22- Single-module strap constructions.

25
 Two-module structures (Fig. 23) are formedusing two straps in different
combinations. The bundles or the first interdigital space must be fixed, other straps are
designed at the discretion of the fashion designer. Straps on the rise, heel rack, heel
strap, etc. may take place.
Three-module structures (Fig. 24) are formed in a similar way,but the structure
is built on the basis of three straps.

Fig.23 - Two-module belt constructions.

Fig. 24- Three-modulebelt constructions

Construction of the structural basis of strappy shoeson the padThe design of

belt structures beginsfrom the fact that a model is drawn on a pad covered with
scotch tape. If the model is asymmetrical, then it is necessary to work with both
the outer and the inner side. Then the shell of the pad is removed and flattened.

26
 Transfer of structural linesfrom the block to the plane can be done in two
ways: the first way is the standard removal of the URK, spreading and transferring
the structural lines to a sheet of paper. In the second method, the shell is cut with a
knife along the intended drawn lines. The resulting straps and parts are spread out
on paper. The contours are corrected, allowances are added for the thickness of the
materials, for stitching, folds, and a trailing edge.
In most cases, the strap construction has a basic module (basic strap) in the
area of the bundles (Fig. 25). It is he who carries the greatest load and fixes the
foot, especially in designs with high heels. Therefore, its location should be
determined by the features of anthropometry and biomechanics of the foot.

Fig.25 - Examples of strap constructions with a bundle strap

Rational positionsuch a strap is shown in Figure 26.

It passes through points 1 and 2, located in the area of the metatarsal-
phalangeal arch between the first phalanges of the first and fifth fingers.
The main condition for the convenience of belt structuresis the fixation of the
given section 1-2. If a wide strap is used in the bundle area (a union with an open
toe part), then its contour is designed according to the wishes of the fashion
designer.

Fig. 26- The location of the main strap at the border of the beam section.

27
 However, at workwith the pad, it should be taken into account that its shape
is quite different from the structure of the foot, and therefore, when modeling open
shoe designs, you should rely on the plantogram of an average foot.

Designing a marking insole.The pad pasted over and prepared for shoe
modeling is appliedon the plantogram of the foot so that the areas of the bundles
coincide, and the most protruding point of the heel of the shoe is at the level of the
corresponding point of the foot (Fig. 27)

Fig. 27- Comparison of the block with the

plantogram

Next, points 1 and 2, as well as points Pn and Pv are plotted on the block
(external andinternal bundles).
points1and 2, in addition, mark on the contour of the footprint of the pad., on
the basis of which the marking insole will be designed further. It is on it that the
master will focus on, tightening the sewn top blank onto the pad. On the marking
insole, the modeler makes grooves that determine the position of all straps (Fig.
28).

Fig. 28- Design of the contour of the insole with basic marks.

28
 Contour of the insolein sandal-strap constructions with an open toe, they are
built based on the shape of the toe part of the foot or on the contour of the sole in
the corresponding area.
After,as the main auxiliary points are marked, you can start drawing the
design of the model.
As an example, consider the given construction (Fig. 29)

Fig. 29- The appearance of shoes of strap construction, which is projected

We apply constructive lineson the surface of the block (Fig. 30).

At the same time, in addition to those already noted earliermain points, you
should focus on other important anthropometric points, which are determined by the
features of this design. In this model, the strap goes below the point of the condyle M
and 4-5 cm below the bend of the foot (so-called B), or no higher than 50 mm from
the point of the heel C. The height of the heel stand is equal to the standard height of
the upper part of the boot (so-called Vp ).

Vn=0.2Nm+12 (4)
Vb=Nst+24
where Nm is the block number in the metric
system Nst is the block number in the metric
system

Next, the shell is removed from the block in the standard way, then flattened.
After that, you can start designing the ground model of the top structure (Fig. 31).
After,as all the lines are corrected and checked, we proceed to the construction
of the assembly drawing and detailing. Our design consists of:
 union, which in turn consists of three straps that are adjusted to the central
strap;

29
 heel rack, upperthe edge of which forms a loop;
 strap,with which the model is attached to the foot. It is removable and is sewn
into the loop of the central strap and the heel counter.

Fig.30 - Drawing structural lines on the surface of the prepared pad

In

Fig. 31- Layering of the shell with applied lines

30
 In

Fig. 32- Construction of the assembly drawing of the belt structure

The length of the central belton the drawing is determined according to the
drawn contour (Fig. 32). The length of the heel rack is equal to the calculated height
of VkVp + (16+4) (the width of the tightening edge is 16 mm, taking into account the
thickness of the block-insole of 4-6 mm - together it is 20-22 mm). The length of the
parts of the side racks is limited by the height of the point of the condyle M=0.21N, to
which is added an allowance for the trailing edge of 20-22 mm.
Everyoneof the three straps that make up the union, has its own inflection line.
It is built in accordance with the URC contour, taking into account the thickness of
the materials in this area (2-3 mm above the URC contour).
The edges of the strapsare mainly processedbending, the allowance for bending
is 4 mm. However, if the straps are thin (less than 8 mm), then their width in the
finished form should be such that the width in the bent form is equal to the width of
the buckle frame. So, if the width of the inner window of the buckle is 7 mm, then the
bending width of the strap will be 3.5 mm, and the bending is performed butt. Then
the width of the strap in the cut will be 14 mm, and in the finished form 7 mm.
Widthof the tightening edge is standard for the adhesive method of attachment.
In addition to the above standard allowances, in belt models
31
there are often allowances for fastening a buckle, for the formation of a loop (as in the
given design).
Allowanceto form a loop, into which another strap is threaded, is calculated
based on the width of the strap being threaded, taking into account the thickness of the
strap materials. So, in the given design, if the width of the strap is 10 mm, the loop in
the bend is 15-16 mm (Fig. 32).
Thus, the total length of the part of the cut of the heel strap, ending with a
loop,into which the lifting and sealing belt is threaded, is calculated as follows:

LFriday racks= VkVp + Z\kr + Shr + Pt+Pp (5)

LFriday racks= VkVp + (20÷22) + Shr + (5÷6) + 7
where Shr is the width of the strap passing through the
loop
VkVp – the height of the heel part, calculated according to standard formulas Z\kr
– allowance for the trailing edge, taking into account the thickness of the block
insole in
section of the rack, we accept 20-
22mm
Friday – allowancefor the thickness of the material and the free
threading of the strap through the loop of the rack, we accept 5-6 mm
Pstr - allowance for stitching the edge of the strap, which falls under the seam
that fixes the loop. We accept 7 mm.
The total length of the part of the side rack cut,ending with a loop is calculated
similarly:
Lside racks= M + (20÷22) + Shr + (5÷6) +7(6)
where Shr is the width of the strap passing through the loop
M is the height of the point of the bowl, calculated according to the standard
formula (0.21N)

Allowancefor attaching a buckleis calculatedso that the strap with the buckle
could be stitched on the sewing machine. Preferably, this allowance is at least 20 mm.
To fasten the buckle, determine the center of its axis; the length of the cut for
the fastener is 5-8 mm (to cover the axial rod of the buckle). The free belt (whip)
extending beyond the buckle varies within 30-40 mm. The allowance for attaching the
buckle Pp is calculated by formula (7): ′
Rp= Dp + S0 + P0 +𝑷𝒄 (7)
′ ′

whe
- the distance of the roller of the sewing machine from the edge of the
re𝑃𝑐
- 2.5-3 mm
32
buckle;𝑃𝑐
S0– the allowance for covering the axis of the buckle depends on the diameter of
the jumper
bucklesand the thickness of the strap material is 4-7 mm
P0 – allowance for stitching, is 6-8 mm

33
 Dp - the distance from the axial rod of the buckle to the edge of the frame
(usually this is half the length of the buckle for a standard buckle shape)
If we take into account that the distance from the axial rod of the buckle to the
edge of the frame Dp = 10.5 mm (Fig. 39, a), the length of the arc on the axis of the
buckle S0 = 5 mm, the allowance for stitching Ps = 7 mm, then the allowance DD5 =
10.5 + 5 + 2.5 + 7 = 25 mm.
It is important to correctly position the first hole (Fig. 39, a, b),since the overall size of
the workpiece depends on it. The holes are numbered, a total of 5-6 holes are drilled.
The first is considered to be the hole on which the workpiece is fastened during
forming on the block. To do this, measure the length of the buckle window. In our
case, it is equal to 8.5 mm. When tightening the belt, the hole on which the belt is
fastened does not reach the contour of the buckle by 1 - 1.5 mm, therefore, hole No. 1
is placed at a distance of 7 mm (8.5 - 1.5 mm) from the axis of buckle D to hole No. 1.
The distance between the fastener holes = 7-8 mm for elegant high-heeled shoes and
8-9 mm for low-heeled shoes.
In addition, when designing belt structures should be consideredon the thickness
of the materials in the bend areas. Thus, the length of the strap increases along the
fold lines (front and back) by 2-3 mm (Fig. 32).

Fig.33 - Dimensional characteristics of the shoe fastening unit:

a – the general view of the buckle, b – the position of the hole relative to the
D axis.

34
Fig.34 Drawing of the detail of the cutsuspension strap

35
 When constructing the substrate, the convenience of assembling the workpiece
should be taken into accountand stackability of substrate parts. The lining for
removable straps is designed autonomously. The allowance for trimming is assumed
to be within 2-4 mm, depending on the accuracy of the cut, the accuracy of assembly
and the class of the equipment (Fig. 35). Along the contour of the tightening edge, it is
advisable to shorten the lining by 3-4 mm. In this design, the lining for the union can
be made continuous.

Fig.35 - Construction of the shoe lining of the strap structure

bewhich strap structure tightened on the main insole forms irregularities on its
lower surface with the tightened ends of the straps. It is impossible to attach a sole to
such a surface. Therefore, it is necessary to level it. This is done with the help of a
shaped pad, which has grooves around the perimeter for the location of the tightened
ends of the belts - for this, we design a marking pad (the so-called "crab").
The dimensions of the groovesthe depth corresponds to the width of the trailing
edge of 15 mm plus 1.5-2.0 mm, and the width of the groove corresponds to the width
of the Shr belt or parts in this city plus 1.5-2.0 mm on each side of the groove (Fig.

36
36).

37
It should be simple to be made with tough
cardboard, which corresponds to the total thicknessthickness of
workpiece parts.
The insole is processededging throughout the period. Border width
in a cut of 18-20 mm.
Insert insoleis projectedequidistant from the contour of the main insole at a
distance of 3 mm inward (Fig. 37, a)
When designingSRK with an open toe part should provide for a tightening of
the toe part of the insole to a width of up to 0.2 Dst parallel to the line of the bundles.
The length of the lining is 50-60 mm, and the allowance for tightening the insole
depends on the thickness of the insole and is usually 11-12 mm (Fig. 37, b).

Fig.36 - Designingfigured matsfor belt construction

In

anand b
d
Fig.37 - Designing an insole and toe cap for IBS

Insole edging Insert

insole

Tightening of the toe part of the insole

38
Fig.38 - Internal details of the bottom of sandal-strap constructions

39
 Controlquestion
1. How is the block compared to the plantogram?
2. Construction featuresmarking insole.
3. What are the features of layering of the shell with applied lines?
4. What are the features of designing belt structures according to the
method of V.P. Apanasenko?
5. How is the length of the straps calculated?
6. Design features of the insert insole according toin a simplified way.
7. Features of the construction of the liningtoe part

LABNo. 5

DESIGNING WOMEN'S SHOESWITH

OPEN AREAS
The goal of
the work:
get acquaintedwith the technique of building shoes with open areas.
Content of work:
1. Classification of shoeswith various open areas
2. Design featuresshoe with open heel and T-strap
3. Designing shoeswith an open helen part ("delonky") with a T-shaped strap and an
inflated union
4. Designinga shoe of the "delonka" type with an over-ankle strap and an open sock
part
control questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

Classificationsshoes with different open areas. Women's designs of shoes with
open areas are the largest group of women's shoes, which has many varieties. These
designs are universal and comfortable, optimal for spring-summer shoes. They
provide good hygienic properties of shoes and an attractive appearance. Such designs
are most often formed on the basis of shoe designs, but there are also ankle boots,
boots or boots with open areas
All structures with open areas can be conditionally divided into the following
groups (Fig. 34):
For example, shoeswith open areas, the following designs can be distinguished:

40
1) Shoeswith open areas:
- Mules;
- Slippers;
- Boat shoeswith an open sock part;
- Pump shoeswith an open sock part;
- Shoeswith an open heel part
2) Shoeswith open areas with straps:
- Shoeswith an open heel part and heel straps;
- Pump shoeswith lifting straps;
- Pump shoeswith lifting straps;
- Pump shoeswith supra-ankle straps;
- Pump shoeswith an open sock part and super-lifting straps;
- Pump shoeswith an open sock part and lifting straps;
- Pump shoeswith an open sock part and supra-ankle straps;
- Shoeswith open toe and heel and heel straps
- Shoes with open heel part,
semicolons and ankle straps;
- Shoes with open heel part,
semicolons and lifting straps;
- Shoes with open heel part,
semicolons and superlifting straps;
- shoes-hands with super lifting, through lifts
and supra-ankle straps
- Pump shoeswith pull-up and over-ankle straps and an open toe

Fig. Examples of designs of women's shoeswith open areas.

35
 Shoeswith open
sections
Type of shoes

shoes ankle boots shoes boots

Method of fasteningon the foot

1)Due to the tension of the2)edge

Due to straps 3) due to lacing 4) Due to the "zipper" fastener

Open areas

1)is open2)is open3)is open 4)is open 5)are open 6)is open
FridaysocksGelenkovapartpart part socksand heel partsocksand hip parts
calcaneal part

Fig. 34– Classification scheme of shoes with different open areas

The main requirement for structureswith open areas - it is comfortable to wear

and corresponds to the main anthropometric areas of the foot. The edges of the parts
should not cause discomfort, and the functional straps should securely fix the foot. In
addition, the straps must be adjustable.
The main requirements for the design of the top:
- Landthe union should not be located on bundles;
- Supra-ankle and heel straps not should hit
c on dy l e s;
- The lifting strap should thoughb 15 mm not to reach the bending point of the
foot
- The cutout of the sock part must be designedtaking into account the style of
the pad and the shape of the average foot (by 2-3 or more toes)
- Lengththe straps are designed 1-2 cm more (taking into account the
difference in the parameters of the feet of women with the same foot size)
Basic requirements for pads for summer open shoes:
- Trace of a shoe padwith open sections, as for strap structures, wider than for
shuttles;
36
 - The girth of the padin bunches corresponds to the girth of the foot
With the help of straps, you can get both open and closed designs of women's
and men's shoes. The mobility of straps in various combinations creates lightness,
ease of use, provides the necessary freedom of movement, hygroscopicity. On the
basis of the different mutual location of the straps and their different shapes, you can
create many different designs of sandal-strap shoes.
By analogywith sandal-strap constructions, the construction of shoes with open
areas can be presented in the form of diagrams:

Some options for solving heel painpartsbeltconstructionss h o w n in Fig. 35.

37
Fig.35 - Options for solving the heel part of strap structures.

38
 5.1. Peculiarities of designing shoeswith an open heel and a T-strap.
Appearancesuch models are shown in fig. 36.

Fig.36 - Examples of structures with a T-shaped strap.

Fig.37- A p p e a r a n c e o f t h e s h o e m o d e l

The design of this model,like all the others, it begins with work with a block, on
the surface of which the corresponding constructive lines are applied (Fig. 37). At the
same time, the fashion designer must take into account the main anthropometric
points of the foot.
The main detail- the union should cover the bundle part of the foot. There are
restrictions on the location of the straps. The cut line of the "décolletage" of the union
touches the line of calzate, and then turns into a T-shaped strap of any shape (the strap
can be cut off). The T-shaped strap ends with a loop into which a removable strap
with a buckle is threaded, thanks to which the model is attached to the foot. For the
possibility of fixing the foot, the structure provides side racks that additionally fix the
strap. (Fig. 38)
The side racks are located approximately under the outer concha (at the level of
the 1st base). Stand heightin shoes should not exceed the height of the condyle
M = 0.21 Nm (5)
where Nm is the block number in the metric system

39
 In the front part, the contour of the strap is designed similarly to the previous
model.
Next, the URK is removed in the standard way and the primer model of the
shoe is designed (Fig. 39). Taking into account the peculiarities of the anatomical
structure of the foot, the inner part of the union rises by 3-4 mm relative to the outer
one.

Fig. 38- Drawing constructive lines

Fig. 39- Construction of a primer model of shoes with a T-shaped strap

40
 To design a union, it is necessary to first construct the line of inflection of the
union. It is built according to the triangle rule (Fig. 40).
The triangle is superimposedso that one leg of it touches the area of the greatest
deflection of the contour of the union (point A), the top of the right angle lies on the
contour of the URK crest (point D), and the second leg indicates the line of inflection.
At the same time, it is possible that the toe part of the URK is slightly notched (up to
3 mm), but the deflection of the URK contour relative to the bend line should not
exceed 3-4 mm (Fig. 40).
Next, we lay out the T-shaped strap relative to the constructed fold line. To do
this, we pierce the contour of the strap between points A, D, B, F. Then we make
incisions along the contour DB, not reaching 2 mm to the contour AF. Next, we
spread the petals so that they lie along the fold line of the union. Thus, points B and F
will become points B1 and F1. AF contour length = A-F1.
After that, allowances are added to the strapto form a loop, taking into account
the width of the strap being woven and the thickness of the materials. For a strap with
a width of 8 mm, the width of the loop in the bend should be 13-14 mm (Fig. 40).

In

Fig. 40- Construction of an assembly drawing of women's shoes with T-

similarstrap

41
 Loopracks are built in a similar way (Fig. 40, a).
Strap with The buckle is designed similarly to the previous model.

Liningin this design, each part is built separately (Fig. 41).

Bend linewe lower the lining under the joint in the toe part below the fold line
of the joint by 2-3 mm. Along the contour of the tightening edge, the lining is
shortened by 3-4 mm (for leather lining). Allowances for trimming are from 2 to 4
mm.

5.2. Designing shoeswith an open helen part ("delonky") with a T-

shaped strap and an inflated union.
Shoesof the "delonka" type have a union and a butt (with a hard back), and an
open helen part. The design of the inflated union with a T-shaped strap is similar to
the previous design, however, it has a more closed union, which turns into a T-shaped
belt (Fig. 42)
The shape of the butt is projectedtaking into account fashion trends and fashion
designer ideas. Butt height is calculated according to formula (4).

Fig. 41- Construction of shoe lining with T-strap

After,as the model is drawn on the block, we remove and flatten the shell and
build a primer model (Fig. 43)
42
 Fig. 42- Drawing structural lines on the surface of the pad

Fig. 43- Construction of the "hand" ground model with an inflated union

Next, we build an assembly drawing of the model. The heel contour of the butt
is designed similarly to the standard construction of the heel contour of half-boots. At
the Vp point, we mark the contour of the pad by 3-4 mm.
Bend linewe build the unions similarly to the previous model (according to the
triangle rule. However, the higher the union, the greater the angle of inclination

43
inflection lines(Fig. 44). According to the triangle rule, we get the inflection line D-
H1.
Soyuzka is being designedin four stages:
1. First, the contour of the T-strap is laid out relative to the constructed fold
line, similarly to the previous model. The strap endsloop, the calculation of which is
also given in the previous model.
2. Then the front part is laid outunions For this purpose, a second conditional
line of inflection of the union is constructed from the point of intersection of the upper
contour of the URK with the constructed line of inflection (in this case, it is point C)
and the most convex point of the toe; we get the segment C-H. Next, we divide the C-
H segment into equal segments 1-1.5 cm long and draw perpendiculars to the C-H
segment through these points. On each perpendicular, measure the distance from the
C-H segment to the point of intersection of the lower contour of the ground model
with the perpendicular and set this distance down from the D-H1 line. Then we
connect the obtained points and get the lower contour of the projected union (dotted
line
), to which we add an allowance of 4-5 mm in the toe and toe-bundle part. The
contour, taking into account the assumption, is shown in the drawing with a solid bold line.
3. Next, it is necessary to adjust the wing of the union.To do this, we roll the
hyphen template (the hyphen template is shown in the drawing with a dotted line
). Holding the template at a point AND, we roll it
until it touches the most convex point of the toe of the second fold line D-H1,and
outline the contour of the wing and the lower contour of the glenoid-bundle part. In
the area of the bend of the upper contour of the URK, a section was formed, the
parameters of which must be taken into account when drawing the lower contour of
the union. To do this, we divide the distance between the intersections of the initial
contour of the union template with the D-H1 inflection line into equal sections 1-1.5
cm wide and draw perpendiculars to the D-H1 line through them. Then, on each
segment, we set aside the width of the upper shaded area from the lower contour of
the union upwards. A new shaded area has formed in the lower part of the union, by
which we reduce the plane of the union.
4. Next, it is necessary to take into account the difference between the external
andinternal o ut l i ne unions (Fig. 44).
Constructionfastens on the foot with a buckle. For this
is projectedtwo straps: buckle and whip strap. The location of the strap is below the
condylar point M. The suspension strap is attached to the outer butt, it is usually
designed with a length of 10-20 mm in the bend. The buckle strap is attached to the
inside of the butt; him

44
length when designing increases on
thickness materials inflection lines(by 3-4 mm in the
bend).

Fig. 44- Assembly drawing of a "delonka" shoe with an inflated union and
a T-strap.

The design of the lining of "delonka" type shoeswith an inflated union and a T-
shaped strap.
The substrate is designed separately for each part (Fig.45). The construction of
the lining for the yoke and strap is similar to the previous model. The lining for the
butt (skin pocket) is designed as a continuous piece. The inflection line passes through
the Vp point and 6-7 mm to the right of the most protruding point of the heel. It is
desirable that the overlap of the part of the lining under the strap and leather pocket
does not coincide with the overlap of the strap and butt (to avoid excessive thickness
of materials in this area).

45
 Fig. 45 - Design of the lining of shoes of the "delonka" typewith an
inflated union and a T-shaped strap

5.3. Designing shoes of the "area" typewith a supra-ankle strap and

an open toe.
Shoeswith a supra-ankle strap are distinguished by an inflated butt or heel
post, to which a strap is attached that wraps around the leg above the condyle.

Ry

Fig. Examples of shoe designswith supra-ankle strap

46
 We draw the modelon the pad (Fig. 46). When designing the cut of the joint in
the toe area on the pad, you should also focus on the averaged plantogram of the
foot.
This design consists of a union with an open sock part, a butt ending with a
loop and a strap. The design of the neckline of the soyuzka is similar to the "shuttle"
shoes, while we focus on t. C, taking into account the permissible deviation, we get
the cut point of the neckline t. C'. The wings of the union are designed as follows; so
that the bundles are closed.

Fig. 46- Drawing structural lines on the surface of the pad

Inner side3-4 mm higher than the outer one. The height of the Vp1 butt is 15-17
mm higher than the standard one:
Heightbutts Vp1 higher than standard:

Vn1=Vn+(6÷10)+Shr=0.2N+(12÷22)+Shr (6)
where Shr is the width of the strap, which is threaded into the butt loop.

Shellwith the drawn structure, we remove it from the pad, spread it out and
build a primer model (Fig. 47).
When calculating the length of the strap, we orient ourselveson the average
ankle girth, which we will take as 24 cm, i.e. the length of the buckled strap in the
bend is 240/2=120 mm
Construction of the assembly drawing of the model.Next, we build an
assembly drawing of the model (Fig. 48).
When constructing the inflection linewe make a 2-3 mm notching of the ties in
point C to ensure the tension of the edges of the ties.
47
 If the butt is not wide, as in this case, it is advisable to design it as a whole
along the heel contour. When designing the inflection line of the butt, we focus on
point Vn1 and the most convex point of the heel.

Fig. 47- Designing a primer model of "delonka" shoes with a

supra-ankle strap and an open sock part

Fig.48 - Construction of an assembly drawing of type shoes

"hands"with a supra-ankle strap and an open toe 48
 Next, the differences that arose between the bend line and the heel contour of
the URK should be taken into account when building a new buttock contour (Fig. 49).
To do this, at intervals of 1-1.2 cm, we draw lines perpendicular to the fold line of the
butt. The segments formed on these lines between the bend line of the buttock and the
contour of the URK are laid off from the previous contour of the buttock towards the
heel (distance a is laid off from the contour of the buttock to the left along the same
line). In this way, we will get a corrected butt contour.
The upper part of the butt ends with a loop,into which the strap is threaded. The
calculation of loop parameters is similar to previous models. The height of the loop in
the bend with a strap width of 8 mm is 13-14 mm (Fig. 48).
Strap lengthin expanded form and is calculated as follows:
Dr = Ог+tm4+Pp+Phl (7)

Where Ог is the girth of the lower leg in the area where the
strap is located; tm - thickness of strap materials (2mm);
Mr-- allowance for fastening the buckle (25 mm);
Phl - allowance for the length of the snap-on whip (35-45 mm)

Fig. 49- Designing the contour of a solid butt

The lining is foldedfrom three parts: a lining for the union; under the strap and
leather pocket (Fig. 50). When constructing the fold line of the skin pocket at the most
protruding point of the heel, we retreat 4-5 mm from the fold line of the butt.

49
 Fig.50 - Construction of the lining of shoes of the "delonka" type
with a supra-ankle strap and an open sock part
Controlquestion
1. What is the peculiarity of the construction of shoes with an open heel part
and with a T-shaped strap?
2. How to properly lay out a T-strap relative to the fold line of the union?
3. What are the features of building a solid butt?
4. How to calculate the length of the supra-ankle strap?

LABNo. 6

DESIGNING WOMEN'S TIGHT BOOTSUP TO THE KNEE

ON THE BASE OF ANTHROPOMETRIC PARAMETERS

The goal of the work:

get acquaintedwith the method of construction of women's tight-fitting knee-high
boots based on anthropometric examinations.
Content of work:
1. Classificationboots

50
2. Receivinganthropometric information for the construction of boots
3. Designingthe top of the fitted boots with a "zipper" fastener. 3.1.Designing
besieging boots from internal location "zippers"
3.2. Design of fitted boots with a back "zipper".
4. Construction of lining of
boots. control questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

Classification of boots. A feature of modeling bootsthere is availability
freebies.According toforms of freebiesbootsclassified by silhouettes:
- tight fitting
- semi-fitting;
- of the "pipe" type;
- of the "accordion" type;
Onheight freebiesboots are classified as:
- highknee high boots:
- bootsheight ¾;
- half boot(below the calf);
- jackboot(boot above the knee)
According to the method of fastening on the legboots are:
- on the "zipper" fastener;
- on a shoelace;
- on buttons or buttons;
- without special fasteners, with wide clearance
PlaceLocationfastenercan also vary (center front, back,on internal freebies, on
external freebies, etc.
The design of the boots dependsnot only from fashion trends, but also from
the shape of the shoe, the shape of the heel, the construction of the bottom, the
plasticity of the material, the general plasticity of the form. All together should aim
to produce an aesthetic, perfect and harmonious form.
When modeling, it is necessary to take into account the properties of materials
forfreebies: their elasticity, dimensional stability, thickness, etc.
Sizes of free bootsare built on the basis of the parameters of the lower leg.
Formingthe top of the boots is:
 due to the configuration of the front fastener ("zipper", lacing);
 due to the front seam;
 due to transverse pinches and seams;

51
  due to cross members;
 due to longitudinal joints;
 due to the separable union with the tongue;
 due to the formed alliance;
 due to the oval insert;
 by score using elastic and plastic material
properties(bracket of the workpiece in the center, drapery, etc.);

Obtaining anthropometric informationfor building boots.For the design of

boots, except for pads,on which they will be made, the parameters of the lower leg are
also required. The average values of these parameters for three completenesses with a
pad size of 245 are given in the table. 1
Measurement of the leg to obtain the individual parameters of the
customeroccurs according to Fig. 51.
Measurements are being takenwith the help of a flexible measuring tape Height
measurements are determined along the back center line of the lower leg. In the area
of the height of the product, the widest part of the calf, the narrowest part of the leg at
a height of 11-12 cm, the height and the corresponding girth are measured. The data
are entered in Table 1.

Fig.51 - Location of the measured parameters on the lower leg Table

1 - Average parameters of the lower leg of girls aged 18-25 years

with a foot size of 245 mm.
The value of Girth,mm
Latitudeparameter the height
IN WITH Sh
parameter,mm

52
Semi-circumference of
the lower legbelow the 410 161 165 169
knee (at the height of the

53
 Semi-circumference of
the lower legin the 315 172 178 184
widest place of the calf
muscle Osh/2
Semi-circumference of the
lower leg in the middle 205 142 147 152
betweenin the widest and
Semi-circumference of the
lower legin the narrowest 110 108 112 116
place (above the ankle joint)
Ov/2 -
Half circumference of
153 155 157
the footon an oblique
ascentOkos/2

Designing the top of fitted bootson the "zipper" fastener.The design of the
boots beginsfrom the block If there are structural lines in the lower part of the boot,
then they are applied to the surface of the pasted and prepared pad.
ReceivedWe adjust the URK pads as shown in fig. 3, g.
Next, on the vertical axis, we mark the point Vk, from which we set aside the
thickness of the block insole in the heel part (7-10 mm) and mark the point Vk1,
relative to which we enter the URK.
On the registeredin the rectangular URK coordinate system (Fig. 52), mark the
point of beams P, point Bz, draw baselines.
VkVz=0.2 N (8)

Points are marked on the first base lineBand M. Through the points Vk and M,
draw a line of oblique rise, the length of which should be approximately equal to half
the girth through the heel and bend (Okos/2), on which point L is marked. Parallel to
the first basic line, at a distance of 4 mm forward from it, draw the line on which the
segment B1Lv is laid from the lower contour of the workpiece and mark the point Lv
- the center of the inner ankle:
Lv = 0.33*N (9)

Buildingfreebies. A vertical line is drawn from the Lv point, from which a line
is drawn counter-clockwise at an angle φ through the Lv point - the free axis.
φ= 0.04Nto- 0.06ATsh+22 (10)*
where Osh is the girth at the widest part of the
lower leg; Nk - heel height in mm

54
 *Note: given calculation formulaφ is used to build boots with a front central
seam; for designs with a union with a tongue, the angle φ is usually reduced by about
1

To construct the free height from the Vk1 point up along the Y axis, we
postpone the value of the height of the product Nch +10 mm. Through this point, we
draw a perpendicular to the free axis and mark the Vch point at the intersection of the
perpendicular and the free axis. Similarly, the height parameters of the lower leg are
set aside: the height to the narrowest place is +10; to the widest place Nsh+10; to the
girth in the middle between the widest and narrowest places of Нs, and mark the
points accordingly: Вв, Вш, Вс. Lines at an angle of 84° are drawn through the points
Bv, Vc and Vsh, and through the point Vch at an angle of 86°. Segments VshPsh and
VvPv, which extend to the right of the points Vsh and Vv
VshPsh=0.3*(Osh/2) (11)
VvPv = (0.5 –0.002*Nk)*(Ov/2+10) (12)

A line is drawn through the points Psh and Pv, which is the front line of the
freebie. It is carried out to the intersection with the line of the upper edge of the boot,
point B1 is marked at the intersection. From the points Pv, Ps, Psh and B1 to the left,
the corresponding latitudinal parameters of the lower leg are placed: PvSv = Ov/2,
PsSv = Os/2 mm, PshSsh = Osh/2 mm, V1Сch = Och/2 mm.
In item Vz, we add an allowance of 3-5 mm depending on the configuration of
the heel part of the pad sweep and mark item Vz'.
Next, a control check of the heel contour is carried out: with the help of a
flexible centimeter tape, the heights from the point of Vk to the height of the boot
(point of the leg) and the widest place of the leg (point of the foot) are checked along
the back curvilinear contour of the ground model of the boot.
For a tight-fitting women's boot in the area of the calf and below the knee, the
boot is designed with minimal allowances for the width of the boot, since the elastic
leather is able to “mould” and stretch when worn. The width allowance in the widest
area depends on the thickness of the free materials: with a material thickness of 2.5
mm, the width of the primer model in this area increases by 7 mm. And in the area of
the ankle and the narrowest part of the lower leg, for the convenience of wearing
leather boots, it is necessary to add an allowance of 8-12 mm depending on the
thickness of the materials of the boot (this does not apply to boots made of stretch
materials) and mark the item St.
The back contour of the boot drawing will pass through the points Nsh, Cs, Sv',
Vz'and Vk to the trailing edge.

55
 In the area of the oblique rise from point L, we set aside an allowance of 2-12
mm, depending on the height of the heel (the higher the heel, the smaller this
allowance).

Fig. 52- Designing a primer model of women's boots with a

56
"zipper" fastener

57
 Construction of the upper edging line.The outer part of the free boot is
designed for 8-12mm higher than the inner one: this is due to the peculiarities of the
anthropometric structure of the lower leg.
The design of the upper edge beginsfrom the fact that they build the outer side
of the cavity with a convexity of 4-5 mm relative to the B1-Sh line, and the upper
edge of the inner side - with a concavity of 4-5 mm (Fig. 53, a).

and

Fig.53 - Construction of the contour of the upper edge and the fold
Tight fitting of the lower leg with the upper edge of the freebie is ensured16 mm
wide groove (for an average leg). Along the upper edge
58
freebies fromt. Sc back is set aside 16 mm, mark t. Sc', then divide the width of the
upper edge in half and set aside 8 mm on both sides of the center
– the width of the twist (the width of the twist is 16 mm). The depth of the furrow is
8–10 cm (from the upper edge to the widest part of the free space).
Intersection points of the constructed loopwith the outer contour of the line of
the upper edge, mark V1 and V3 (Fig. 53, b). The contour of the fold continues
upwards from points V1 and V3 for another 3-4 mm and points V2 and V4 are
marked. From the obtained points at a right angle to the contour of the folds, a new
corrected contour of the upper edge is projected.
Internal freebieis also designed with a groove along the line of the "zipper". The
parameters of this loop are constructed similarly, but taking into account the width of
the functional part of the "zipper" (see below).
Let's considertwo versions of the design of the slim-fitting boot with a "zipper":
with an internal "zipper" and with a back "zipper".

6.1. Tight bootswith internal zipperThe simplest construction women's

boots -it boots withinternalf a s t e n e r "lightning"
andthe front andbackstitched seam (Fig.54). Suchconstruction consists of
with two top details – external freebies
and internal free space, which are connected to each other by sewing
seams. The seam allowances are 2-3 mm, depending on the type of leather and the
accuracy of assembly, they are added along the front and back seams and along the
contour of the outer fold. The upper edge is usually processed in a fold.

Construction of the zipper line.In the middle of the topon the edge of the inner side of
the freehold mark the point Z (Fig. 52) and draw the line С-Б connecting the points of
intersection of the base lines IV and I, respectively, with the upper and lower contours
of the URK. At the intersection of the S-B line with the II base line, we mark point Z'.
In the middle of the Pv-Sv line, we mark the point C''. The line of the "zipper"
fastener should pass through points Z, Z'' and Z' and not reach the lower edge of the
URK by 15-20 mm. When designing boots for a high rise of the heel part (when the
heel height is higher than 80 mm), the "zipper" fastener can pass in a straight line; and
in boots for a low heel, the fastener line is projected along a curved curve. After that,
on both sides of the constructed line, we set aside half of the "fastener window"
(usually the "zipper" fastener window takes 8 mm), and draw equidistant lines. In the
upper part of the inner loop, the fastener window expands by an amount equal to the
width of the outer loop. Thus, at the level of the upper edge, the fastener window will
be 24 mm (8 + 16 = 24).

59
 Fig. 54- Construction of an assembly drawing of women's boots with a
"zipper" fastener with a central sewing seam.

6.1.1. Zip-up bootswith the union of the lingual cut

This construction assumes the presence of a conjunctionwith a tab that adjusts
to the freebie. The contour of the union is first drawn on the block, and then
transferred to the drawing of the top. When applying this constructive

60
lines should be rememberedthat the optimal location of the insertion point of the union
should be at the level of the line of bundles drawn through the point of calzate C (Fig.
55 a).
Linethe inflection of the union is built according to the rule of a right triangle.
The triangle is set so that the right angle lies on the contour of the ridge of the URC (t.
C), one leg touches the point of the insertion of the union A, and the distance of the
second leg from the upper contour of the URC in the bundle area should be no more
than 4 mm.
After,as the inflection line is built, the contour of the tongue of the union is laid out so
that its inflection line coincides with the inflection line of the union. To do this, an
incision is made on the joint template along the SA line, not reaching t. A by 2-3 mm,
and the section of the tongue rotates around the point A, until the contour of the center
of the SY tongue coincides with the line of the fold of the joint. If this contour is
curved, then the section of the tongue is cut into several parts, not reaching the
limiting contour of the tongue by 2-3 mm, and then the resulting petals are unfolded
until each of them lies on the required fold line (Fig. 55 b). If the tongue of the union
is long and wide, then after laying it out along the fold line, its contour should be
slightly shortened to avoid wrinkles when the workpiece is tightened. However, the
shortening should be no more than 3-4 mm,
If the insertion point of the union is shifted back, then when constructing the
inflection line, the toe part of the URK is notched. Then it is necessary to adjust the
toe part of the primer model (Fig. 56). To do this, a second conditional line of
inflection of the union is constructed from the point of intersection of the upper
contour of the URK with the constructed inflection line (in this case, it is point C) and
the most convex point of the toe; we get the segment C-H. Next, we divide the C-H
segment into equal segments 1-1.5 cm long and draw perpendiculars to the C-H
segment through these points. On each perpendicular, measure the distance from the
C-H segment to the point of intersection of the lower contour of the ground model
with the perpendicular and set this distance down from the D-H1 line. Then we
connect the received points and get the lower contour of the designed union, to which
we add an allowance of 4-5 mm in the toe and toe-bundle part.
However, builtthe union also needs correction in the section of the wing of the
union, for this the wing of the union should be increased to the plane of the triangle
AEF (Fig. 56). The value of EF depends on the amount of notching of the toe part by
the fold line of the union and is usually close to half the distance of НН1.

61
 and

b
Fig.55 - An example of a folding drawing of boots with a fastener
"lightning"with the union of the lingual cut (option 1)

62
Drawing
Fig.56 - Construction of an assembly drawing of boots on a fastener
"lightning"with the union of the lingual cut (option 2)

61
 Construction of the substrate.The standard lining for boots is foldedfrom the
following details:
 lining for the union;
 lining for freebies;
 staferka;
 skin pocket;
 valveunder the "lightning".
Construction of the substratebegins with the design of the front and back lines
(Fig. 57). All the indents necessary for the construction of the contour of the lining are
set aside from the contour of the top with an allowance for the seam. Along the front
contour, the lining is made smaller by 2-3 mm at the top and by 5-6 mm at the bottom,
in the toe-bundle part. The front contour is stitched with a zigzag (sweeping) seam.
We retreat 1-2 mm along the back contour in the area of the upper edge; in the area of
the ankle, the indentation is 3-4 mm. Along the back contour, the lining is connected
by means of a stitched seam. The skin pocket is designed solid. The fold line of the
skin pocket passes 7-11 mm to the right of the contour of the top at the level of the
most protruding point of the heel and 5-6 mm to the right of the contour of the top at
the level of the height of the skin pocket.
On the lining under the inner free space, a mark is projected under the center of
the “zipper” fastener, along whichglue the lining to the freebie. When designing the
valve under the "zipper", an allowance of 4-6 mm is added in the lower part. The
width of the valve is 26-28 mm.
Usuallyin the upper part of the lining there is a 25-
30 mm. It is built equidistant from the contour of the upper edge. Since a loop is
designed on the external freewall, its parameters must be taken into account when
designing the rack (Fig. 58).
First, two outer parts are builtstitchers: the front one, which is located between
the front seam and the fold (detail Ш1-Ш2-Ш3-Ш4); and the back, located between
the fold and the back seam (detail Ш5-Ш6-Ш7-Ш8). Then the templates of these
parts are cut out and combined along the line of the fold: the line Ш5-Ш6 is combined
with the line Ш3-Ш4. In this way, we get the outline of the entire outer rack. The
outer lining for the freebie is designed with a Ш4-Ш9-Ш6 groove, which is stitched
with a stitched seam.

62
 7-11

Fig.57 - Construction of the lining of women's boots on a fastener

"lightning"

More oftenafter all, the rack is built as a whole along the front contour, so the
front part of the inner rack is attached to the obtained contour of the outer part (Fig.
59).

63
 Fig.58 - Construction of the outer part of the rack

Fig.59 - Designing the upper part of the lining of women's boots

on the "zipper" fastener

6.2. Tight bootswith back zipper

The second option of boots- these are boots with a "zipper" fastener located ont o t he
r ear seam. Ita less common version of the design. It is used primarily when the
internal location of the "zipper" contradicts the designer's idea, spoils the appearance
of the model, etc.
The main difference in the design of such a structure- this is the absence of an
internal window under the "zipper" and the presence of such a window along the back
contour of the primer model of the boot (Fig. 60).
The upper edging is built similarly to the structurewith an internal fastener. The
loop is projected on both sides of the freeway. The outer and inner loops differ only in
height (since the outer part of the freewheel is higher, the loop is also built higher by
11-14 mm).
From the rear contour of the primer model of the boot to the right, set aside half
the width of the window under the “zipper” (if the window is 8 mm, set aside 4 mm)
64
and

65
Fig. 60- Construction of an assembly drawing of women's boots on the back
zippers

66
we make an equidistant allowanceto the contour of the tightening edge, mark point
Bv2. We set aside 12-16 mm from point Bv2 upwards, mark point Bv1 - the point of
the lower border of the "zipper" window. From point Bv1 to the left, draw a
perpendicular 8 mm long to the constructed curvilinear contour and mark point Bn1.
Through point Bn1, we make an equidistant allowance of the heel contour down and
mark point Bn2. Above t. Bv1, the rear contour of the outer and inner scapula
coincides. Further down, the internal contour passes through points Bv1 and Bv2; and
the external one - through t. Bv1, Bn1 and Bn2.
Externalthe rear view of the lower part of the boot is shown in Fig. 61.

Fig.61 - Rear view of the lower part of the boots with the back "zipper".

An 8 mm seam allowance is added to the Bn1-Bn2 contour.

On the frontthe seam of the boots is connected by a sewing seam. The upper
edge is processed with a fold.

Construction of the substrate.When building the substrate should be takennote

that along the contour of the "zipper" fastener add a trimming allowance of 3-4 mm
relative to the contour of the top (Fig. 62). The skin pocket consists of two identical
parts, which are connected "overlapping" below the "zipper" window, so an additional
allowance of 5-6 mm is added in this part.
The front part of the lining is designed similarly to the variantwith an internal
"zipper".
The rack is designed as a whole; the method of construction is similar to the
construction of a rack for bootswith an internal "zipper", by combining the front and
back parts.
Both parts of the substrate are designed for freewith a loop, the contour of
which coincides with the contour of the loop on the freebie.

67
Fig.62 - Construction of the lining of women's boots with a back
"lightning"

68
 Controlquestion
1. What does the design depend on?a boot?
2. At what points is the leg measured to obtain the customer's
individual parameters?
3. What adjustments are made for URK pads when designing boots?
4. How to build an axis of freebies?
5. What are the features of freehold construction?
6. Construction featureslines of the upper edge and folds.
7. How to build a zipper line?
8. What are the features of building a lingual cut union?
9. What lining options do you know depending on the location of the
zipper?

LABNo. 7

CONSTRUCTION OF WOMEN'S HEATED BOOTS"BOOTFORTS"

TYPE

The goal of the work:

get acquainted with construction method women's
boots on anthropometric basedata
Content of work:
1. Construction of free bootsbased on anthropometric data.
2. Construction of the contour of the upper edge.
3. Construction of a "zipper" fastener.
4. Construction of assembly drawingunlined "boots"
5. Designinginternal parts of unlined "boots" Control questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

Boots differ from boots first by all
height: they c l o s e t h e k n e e and sometimes they reach the
middle of the thigh, and even higher.
Anthropometric data given in the table are required to build the ground model
of boots. 2.
Freebie construction.Buildingthe primer model of boots begins similarly to the
construction of boots (see the previous laboratory work). First, the prepared and
corrected URC fits into the rectangular coordinate system; then the free axis is built,
along which all the height parameters of the boots are laid out and the points are
marked: Bv; Sun; Vsh; Vpod.k; Injection; Vnad.k; Viz (Fig. 63). Lines are drawn
through these points at an angle of 84up to eight freebies. After
69
this is carried out by the front line freebies from
which longitudinal lines are postponedlatitudinal
parameters given in Table 2.

Table2 - Parameters that are necessary for the design of "boots" and their
average values
The value of The value of
Latitudeparameter the height the latitude
parameter,mm parameter,mm
Half coveragehips at the height of the
530 210
product Oiz/2
Half coverage hips over knee
500 195
Onad.k/2
Semi-circumference of the knee 460 180

Semi-circumference of the kneein a squat 460 190

Round/2
Half coverage lower legs knee
410 165
Approx. to/2
Half coveragelower legs at the widest
315 178
point of the calf muscle Osh/2
Semi-circumference of the lower leg in
the middle between the widestand in the 208 147
narrowest places; Os/2
Semi-circumcised lower legs in
108 112
in the narrowest place
(above the shinjoint) Ov/2 -
Half circumference of the footon an
155
oblique ascent
Okos/2
Suchin this way we get segments:
N-Sv = Ov/2;
Ps-Ss= Axis/2;
Mon-Sh =
Osh/2;
Ppod.k-Spod.k=
Approx.k/2; Pkol-Skol =
Okol/2; Pnad.k-Snad.k =
70
Onad.k/2; B1-Siz = Oiz/2

71
Fig. 63- Construction of the ground model of boots of the "boots"
72
type

73
 We connect the obtained points. The resulting contourmust be adjusted taking
into account the necessary allowances, similar to the construction of boots. So, along
the N-S segment from the St. back, we add an allowance for loose fit. For boots with a
lining, this allowance reaches 1 cm. For unlined boots made of elastic soft leather, this
allowance can be reduced to 0.5 cm.
In the widest part of the lower leg (Sh-Ssh), fitted boots are built without an
allowance, and for unlined fitted boots made of elastic leather, the segment Sh-Sh can
be cut up to 3 mm.
In the area of the knee, two parameters are necessary: semi-circumference in
the straightened state (Pkol-Skol) and semi-circumference in the bent state, when
squatting (Pkol-Skol.pr), to ensure the free functioning of the knee arch. For "boots"
with a lining, the girth in this area should not be less than the girth of the knee when
bending. For "boots" made of elastic leather without a lining, this girth can be
reduced, then the back contour of the boot will pass between the Skol and Skol.pr
points, but not closer than 5 mm to the Skol point.
At the highest point of the back line of the Siz boot, the allowance is usually 2-
4 mm.
At points Snad.k and Spod.k, allowances are mainly determined by the
smoothness of the contour, but they should be at least 3-4 mm.
Construction of the contour of the uppercantu.In "boots" the line of the upper
edging is symmetrical, there is no difference between the inner and outer. When
building it, we focus on points B1 and Siz. We set aside 10-20 mm from point B1
upwards, and connect the obtained point with point Siz with a shape curve so that the
angles formed between it and the front and back lines are close to straight lines.
Construction of a "zipper" fastener.When designing the central line of the
fastener, we orient ourselveson T. Z, Z' and Z". Finding points Z' and Z" occurs in the
same way as for knee-high boots. The upper limit of the "zipper" fastener - point C is
in the middle of the N-N segment. For high-heeled boots, the fastener is built along a
straight line, and for low-heeled boots - along a curve. The upper limit of the fastener
(t. Z) can be moved lower by 5-10 mm.
Construction of the assembly drawing of women's unlined tights
"boots" with central and rear sutures.
The main requirement for the manufacture of unlined boots- this is the presence
of internal parts in the lower part of the boot, which would allow the use of frame and
intermediate parts that increase the dimensional stability of the shoe. At the same
time, soft freebies are made of elastic leather without a lining.

74
Fig.64 - Construction of an assembly drawing of unlined "boots"
75
 Thus, the lower part of such a boot should have structural lines or details of
shoe designs. Let's consider the construction of an assembly drawingunlined "boots"
(Fig. 64).
Firstwe draw constructive lines on the block. In this case, it is a line of shoes
of the "shuttle" type, during the construction of which we focus on points C, Vb
and M. Along this line will pass a seam that attaches the details of the lining to the
top. Next, we remove the URK in the method for boots, and build a primer model
of "boots". After that, we add technological allowances.
Internal details are presentonly in the lower part of the structure and are built
according to the contour drawn on the block, with an allowance for trimming of 5-6
mm (Fig. 65). In this case, the lining consists of a lining for the union, a leather
pocket, and inner and outer side parts of the lining.

7-11

Fig.65 - Design of internal parts of unlined "boots"

Controlquestion
1. What parameters are mandatory for designing "boots"?
2. What are the features of the construction of the top of unlined boots made
of elastic soft leather?
3. What are the features of the construction of the top of "boots" with a lining?
4. How is the contour of the upper edging made?
5. What are the features of building a lining for "boots"?

76
 LABNo. 7

DESIGNINGBOOT OF SERIES PRODUCTION

The goal of the work:
get acquaintedwith the method of building boots of various serial production designs.
Content of work:
1. Construction featuresboot of mass production
2. Construction of the structural basis of the bootsby the method of the
republican model house
3. Projectionmarking insole
4. Construction of the assembly drawing of the belt structure
5. Construction of shoe liningbelt construction Control
questions

Theoretical information and methodological instructions

Almost until the middle of the last century, shoes onlyin general, it
corresponded to the shape of the foot, since it was formed on symmetrical blocks.
There was a need to create such a system of building the upper of shoes, according to
which it would be possible, without having in front of the shoe or the foot of the
customer, to build a model suitable for the manufacture of shoes of a certain size.
Such a system was created in 1876 by the Viennese shoemaker Robert Kneffel. It was
called graphic, as it was based on a graphic method of constructing a flat contour of
the model in a system of rectangular coordinates. According to this method, shoe
models were drawn by transferring the dimensions of the foot in the form of points to
the constructive grid.
Creating a graphical modeling system was a stepforward. However, it did not
take into account the specific shape and dimensions of the block and required repeated
refinement of the contours of the parts. The sewn workpiece was poorly formed on the
pad.
After unification of small workshopsthe enterprise of mass production of shoes
had a need for more advanced methods of designing shoes that would meet the
requirements of its mass production.
In 1910, A. Keller, using the pad sweep and placing it in Kneffel's angular
position, started a new design system - the grapho-copier one. This modeling system
is spread all over the world until now.

77
 Advantage of the systemis that it takes into account the shape of the block, its
dimensions, ensures satisfactory formation of the workpiece on the block. But the
imperfect method of obtaining the scan still does not allow designing shoes with high
accuracy.
Given the shortcomingsgrapho-copying system, in 1936 a group of scientists
under the leadership of Y. P. Zybin developed a fundamentally new system for
designing the upper of shoes, which is based on generalized data of population foot
measurements and is called the copying-graphic system. It involves copying the
lateral surface of the pad and the graphic construction of shoe details.
Disadvantages of this systemis that there are complications in reproducing the
lines of the model on the drawing according to the sketch, and, as a result, deviations
from the artistic intention.
Advantages of the copier-graphic systemin that it takes into account the
dimensions of the pad, the anatomical and physiological structure of the foot and
practical experience in the field of modeling and designing those types of shoes that
are introduced into production.
In the 50s of the 20th century, when a new method of forming the workpiece,
namely internal, was developed, it was necessary to develop such a method of
designing the top that would ensure high accuracy. Since the design was carried out
on the basis of a rigid shell obtained from the surface of the pad, the method was
named rigid shell design. This method involves the following sequence of work:
preparation of the block for copying; obtaining a hard shell from a "dressed" pad;
obtaining a model of the upper of the shoe being designed; delamination of the hard
shell; determination of workpiece deformation; construction of detail drawings.
Shoe designaccording to the Italian method. The method of designing shoes on
a pad and transferring model lines from a pad to a plane was created in 1962-65 at the
International Institute of Shoe Technology and Art in Milan. The method takes into
account previous experience in shoe design and includes a number of new elements.
A new elementin the Italian method, there is a different adjustment, that is, the
expansion or narrowing of the lower and upper edges of the type of workpiece on the
pad. At the same time, each design of the workpiece has its own adjustment features.
Of the factors that affect the quality of the design, the most important are the
modeler's knowledge of the anatomy of the foot, taking into account the properties of
materials for the upper of the shoe and choosing the method of assembly of the
workpiece.
When designingand designing shoes according to the Italian method, special
attention is paid to the accuracy of the construction, compliance with the proportions
of the parts and the lines of their connection, and the accuracy of the reproduction of
the model sketch.
78
 In the shoe industry, different methods are used for the design of boots, which
were formed on different scientific and theoretical bases and give different design
results. Among them: the method of the republican house of models, the method of
designing women's boots of the Italian modeling school ARS Sutoria, the German
method, etc.
A feature of designing bootsthe series takes into account the average parameters
of the leg of certain population groups according to anthropometric studies. Women's
boots are generally designed and manufactured in three widths (narrow, medium and
wide) to best meet consumer demand. The reference data necessary for the design of
mass-produced boots are shown in Table 3.

Table3 - The main parameters of the lower legs

Widthin the Widthin Distanceto Measurementswidth at the
No widest part of the the narrow widest point of the lower leg
No the leg at a narrow place of the between three fullnesses
height of place of lower leg narrow average wide
1.25*No the lower
270 180 ~120 ~130 - 180 -
240 176 ~112 ~120 170 176 182
215 145 ~100 ~105 - 145 -
185 135 ~90 ~95 - 135 -
155 125 ~80 ~80 - 125 -
fromNo. to No. from No. to
±2mm No
±1.3 mm
The range of the oblique ascent is foundby the formula:

About kp = 1.38 Op, (thirteen)

where Op is the girth of the bundles

7.1. The method of the republican model house

Construction of the URG template(for constructionwomen's boots). On a
sheet of whatman, draw a horizontal line ШТ with a length of 120 mm (Fig. 66), then
on this line from point Ш lay a segment ШВ equal to 115 mm.
From point B, set a perpendicular to the line ШВ and lay segments on it, mm:
ВВ1= 69, ВВ2 = 106, ВВ3=212, ВВ4=291, ВВ5=390 and ВВС=407.

79
 Through points B1, B2, B3, B4 and B5, lines are drawn at an angle of 84°, and
through point Bc at an angle of 86°, and the latitudinal dimensions of the survey are
laid down. The obtained points are connected and the contour of the URG template is
obtained.

Fig.66 – Construction of the averaged sweep of the lower leg

On the received template parallel to the lineVVS, marked with the number 1
(intended for the construction of boots with a heel height of 10-20 mm), build several
additional lines 2, 3 and 4 at a distance of 1.8; 1.3 and 1.3 mm (short strokes in three
places in Fig. 66), which will be the height line in the constructions of boots with a
80
heel height of 30 - 40, 50 and 60 - 70 mm, respectively.

81
 Built templateURG is cut out of paper, pasted on cardboard and cut out again.
Then all the lines and digital markings are transferred to it with an awl.
Setting the sweep.During the construction of boots, they receive sweepsfrom
the blocks, set them in the coordinate axis and apply a constructive grid.
Combining the URG templateand sweeps of the lateral surface of the
pad.TemplateThe URG is superimposed on the sweep drawn in the coordinate axes
(Fig. 67) so that the perpendicular established through the Lv point coincides with the
height line of the VVS boot, and the SHT line passes through the V'k point. The URG
template established in this way is delineated and transferred to it by latitudinal
auxiliary lines.

Fig. 67– Combining the averaged leg sweep with the sweep
side surface of the pad 78
 Construction of detailsthe top of tight-fitting boots.Firstthey build the free
contour, setting allowances for sweeps taking into account the thickness of the
material of the top, lining, intermediate parts, the technology of assembling the
workpiece, the possible elongation of the workpiece during forming. The average
values of the allowances for the construction of freeboots of three fullnesses are given
in Tables 4 and 5. The allowances are calculated taking into account the use of elastic
upper material 1 mm thick with average elongation and lining 2.5 mm thick.

Fig.68 – Model of the top of a women's boot with a "zipper" fastener

79
 Obtained points G', Sh'4, Sh'3, Sh'2, K2and Z1 are connected by a smooth
curve, which is continued down to the line of the long allowance. After building the
back line, freebies move on to building the front line. For this, points E', T'4, T'3, T'2
and A1 are connected by a smooth curve. The resulting curve is then connected to
point Ж on the upper sweep contour.
The upper edge of the outer side of the freehold is being builtwith a bulge of
7-10 mm. Tight fitting of the lower leg is ensured by a 6-8 mm wide tuck. The upper
edge of the inner side of the freeway is built concave (the deflection in the middle of
the concavity is 3 mm).
When constructing the location line of the zipper, the location is taken into
accounthard ass.

Table4 - Allowances for URG according to the width of the

freeway, mm

The location Completeness The location Completeness

of the of the
allowance IN WITH Sh allowance IN WITH Sh
Ш2Ш'2 T4T'4
1
Ш3Ш'3 ee'
0
Ш4Ш'4 VKA
1 54 56 58
GG' AA'
0.5 4
T2T'2 KK'
1 3
T3T'3 V'KV''K

Table5 - Width of free space in fullness, mm

Place of Completeness
installationwidth
freebies IN WITH Sh
Sh'2T'2 126 130 134
Sh3T'3 151.5 156.5 161.5
Sh4T'4 178 184 190
Gee 179.5 185 190.5
V'KA' 160 162 164

80
 Designing bootswith a wide straight free.Fromt. At the top, put the value of the
height of the heel + (6-7) mm and mark t. In. Enter the URK in the coordinate axis in
the standard way.
We postpone fromt. Add a distance of 2/3N to the right to the intersection with
the X axis and mark t. P. Next, draw VkB - the width of the oblique rise of the block
and VkA
- the width of the oblique rise of the boot. We apply t. Vp (VkVp=0.15N+25.5 or
VkBp=Nst+24)

Fig.69 – Design of external parts of boots with a wide straight line

for free
In the middle of the VkB segment, we note the T.V.We draw a vertical straight
line through t.V, at the intersection of which with the lower contour of the URK we
mark t.G. From t.G upwards we set the height of the boot GVs. At the same height of
the boot from point G, we set aside a distance of 1.25N+10 and mark point Chic. We
draw straight lines at an angle of 86◦ through the points Vs, Shik, on which we set the
81
corresponding latitudinal parameters.

82
 From point A, we draw a vertical straight line, to which at an angle of 70◦ we
draw the width of an oblique rise, corresponding to VkA, and mark point D'. From
point D' to the right, we postpone the distance DD'
Having foundpoints E, E', Zh, Zh', D, D', we draw the outline of the ground
model. The data required for the construction of boots for different gender and age
groups are given in Table 6.
Substrate design.Substrate designfrom the fable shown in Fig. If the lining is
made of elastic leather, then the distance between the contour of the top model and the
contour of the lining in width is reduced to 2-3 mm.

Fig.70 – Design of boot lining details with a wide straight line

for free

83
 Table6 - Standards for the construction of boots of different sexes and ages
groups
STANDARDS FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF BASIC MODELS OF
BOOTSWITHOUT FASTENING

WOMEN'S BOOTS without zipper "zipper" No. 240, W-6, height GVs=390mm
Vk Vks Shkps Shkpc Widthfreebies
AP P
ОВк VkA VkB HEL DD' ShikE ee' VsJ LJ' VkVk' BpVp' SS'
20 40° 108° 164- 174 L
184- 169 75 182- 74 180- 2-3 3 2-
185 185 185 182 2.5
40 42º 104º 180- 172 180- 164 75 182- 74 180- 2-3 3 2-
181 181 185 182 2.5
60 44º 100º 177- 170 177- 163 77 180- 75 178- 2-3 3 2-
176 178 183 180 2.5
80 46º 96º 172- 168 172- 160 78 178- 75 176- 2-3 3 2-
173 173 180 178 2.5

MEN'S BOOTS without fastening "zipper" No. 270, W -6, base height GVs=270mm
25 37º 105º 195 182 195 178 - - 80 190- 2.5- 3.5- 2-3
192 3 4

SCHOOL BOOTS without zipper "zipper" No. 215, W -5, base height GVs=220mm
15 37º 115º 170 150 170 155 - - 70 164 2.5- 3-4 2-
3 2.5

CHILDREN'S BOOTS without zipper "zipper" No. 185, W -4, base height GVs=220mm
10 37º 115º 155 145 155 138 - - 59 147 2- 3-4 2-
2.5 2.5

MODEL BOOTSwithout "zipper" fastener No. 155, W -5, basic height GVs=180mm
10 37º 115º 138 128 138 123 - - 52 130 2- 3.5- 2-
2.5 4 2.5

7.2. Designing a model of bootsof the "Cossack" type.

This technique involves the use of URG. It is a design with a straight free
freebie without a "zipper" fastening, which forms folds in the area of the narrow part
of the leg.
A feature of the construction of the ground model of this designthere is a need to
shift the URG or the reference parameters of the freeway construction upwards by 40
mm, taking into account the formation of folds in the lower part.
Allowances when designing the contour of the freebiein t. Vz and t. B increase
to 6-7 mm. Allowance in t.B depends on the height of the heel: the lower the heel, the
greater the allowance in t.B (Fig. 71)
The front contour of the freebie is projected vertically, going outwith point B

84
(point B is obtained at the intersection of the Vk-M segment and the ridge contour).

85
 The rear circuit is being builttaking into account the free fit of the shin with a
freebie, i.e. wider than the URG parameters by 5-15 mm, depending on the materials
of the top, features of the silhouette, etc.
An important feature of this design is bootsthere is a need to take into account
the "passability" of freebies - the possibility of wearing boots without fasteners. For
this, a line B-Nv" is drawn, which is equal to half of the oblique rise Vk'-B.
LineB-N" is made at an angle of 70º to the vertical front free line. The free space
should be "passable" along the entire height.
To check the correctness of the ground model and the direction of the freebie, it
is usually checked on the pad. To do this, cut out the constructed primer model of the
boot, connect the points Vz, M and V. Make cuts Vz-M and V-M, not reaching 2 mm
to T.M. Next, the prepared block is attached to the outer side surface of the block
installed on the heel ground so that the points Nv, v, Vk coincide with the
corresponding points of the pad. Next, install the freewheel so that it occupies the
desired position, and fix the Vz-M and V-M sections.
For the manufacture of the joint according to this model of boots, the
preliminary formation of the joint is used before its attachment to the workpiece. To
design such a union, we draw the line О-О, set the cut-out template of the semi-union
so that t. C and t. v lie on the line ОО. We measure the distance C-in along a straight
line and along a curvilinear contour, find the difference ΔL.
From point C to the left and from point H to the right, lay off the distance
ΔL/2+(5÷6), mark the points C' and H', respectively.
The C'-H' distance dividesat the level of segments of 9-10 mm, through which
auxiliary perpendiculars to OO are drawn. (fig. 72) On each of these segments from
the OO line, the transverse dimensions of the previous union are laid out. We connect
the obtained points with a smooth curve and add an allowance from 4 to 7 mm along
the entire perimeter, depending on the properties of the material, the features of the
equipment, and the configuration of the union.
After the union formation procedureits excesses are cut according to the
template of the previous semi-union.

86
 Fig.71 - Designing boots with an exhaust union

Fig.72 – Laying out on the plane of the exhaust union

87
 7.3. Design features of children's bootswith an oval insert.
Ground model of bootsKindergartens are built according to the RDMO
methodology.
On pre-preparedand an oval insert line is applied to the block covered with
scotch tape (taking into account the possible displacement of the line in the finished
shoe by 2 mm down). When drawing the line of the oval insert on the block, you
should reduce the plane of the insert, drawing the line 2-3 mm higher than necessary,
in order to compensate for the stretching of the insert when the workpiece is
tightened.
Removing the URK,in the toe part, along the contour of the insert, we make an
incision for better delamination of the cast. We enter the URK in the coordinate axis
in the standard way. We transfer the structural lines from the mold to the drawing.
Next, it is necessary to build a detail of the oval insert. To do this, we pierce the
webd, vSS'g contours (Fig. 73). Next, cut the obtained template along the contour
vSS'g between points C and C' along the normal to the curvilinear contour SS' at the
level of the petal, not reaching the contour eb by 3 mm (Fig. 73, b). We unfold the
template so that the obtained petals lie on the straight line of inflection vg', which is
drawn on the drawing of the ground model through points v and C. The change in the
plane of the insert between the inflection line and the contour of the URK in the
section vC is corrected along the lower contour of the insert (Fig. 73, and the
correction area is shaded).

7.4. Methodology for designing women's boots of the Italian

modeling school ARS Sutoria.
Entry of URKin the coordinate axis.On a piece of paperA2 format is drawn by
the coordinate axes of the HOU. Along the axis of the OU, a segment of the OVK is
laid upwards, which is equal to the height of lifting the heel part of the pad (Fig. 1.25).
To the left of this point, lay 3 mm (point V'k). Set the URK with the lower end of the
heel part to the point V'k, and the lower contour of the bundles - tangent to the OX
axis, circle it with a dotted line, subtracting the point of the bundles and the contour of
the inner bundles.
Construction of the constructive basis of women'sboots. To build the structural
basis of women's boots, 120 mm (Table 1.3) - the narrowest part of the lower leg
(point 1) and 380 mm - the height of the free leg (point 2) are set aside along the OU
axis from point Vk upwards. 106 mm is laid down from point 2 (point 4). Horizontal
lines are drawn through points 1, 4, 2.
URK is divided in half along the heel contour (point A). Point A will be
connected to the farthest point H of the nose part of the URK. The distance AN is
divided in half and through the middle of the segment AN (point E) is led to it
88
perpendicular to the intersectionwith the upper contour of the URK (point B). Points
Vk and B are connected by a straight line, which is divided in half (B1). Point B1 is
connected to point A.
Vertical intersection points direct with
horizontal lines form points, respectively7, 8, 9.

Fig.73 – Designing children's boots with an oval insert

89
 Table7 - Standards for the construction of boots according to the Italian
method
Notation Women's Men's
(points) on the without on the without
clasp a clasp clasp a clasp
"lightning" "lightning" "lightning" "lightning"
Vk-1 120 120 135 135
Vk-2 380 380 415 415
2-4 106 106 116 116
1-6 3 - 3 -
6-7 120 - 135 -
9-10 10 10+10 10 10+10
11-12 5 10 + 5 5 10 + 5
9-11 170 170 185 185
8-13 165 165 180 180
O-Vk height height height height
heel heel heel heel

From points 8 and 9 to the left along a horizontal line, 165 mm and 170 mm are
laid, respectively (Fig. 1.25), obtaining points 13 and 11. (point 10), and from point
11 – 15 mm (point 12). Points 10 and 12 are connected by a straight line, which is
divided in half (point 15). From point 15 perpendicularly upwards and downwards, 10
mm are laid.
The obtained points are connected by straight lineswith points 10 and 12, make
the upper edge of the freebies (outer and inner contours) with smooth lines. Points
V'k, A, 1, 13, 11, 12 are connected by a smooth line and form the back contour of the
freebie. After that, an allowance of 15 mm is given for the tightening edge.
Builtthe structural base is cut out and cut along the broken line AB1 B, not
reaching point B1 by 1-1.5 mm on both sides. At point B, the structural base is spread
by 3 mm and this position is fixed with adhesive tape.
Designing the ground model of the mock-up of the top of the women's
boots.Contours of external parts of the designed model are developed on a constructive
basistaking into account the shoe sketch and the anatomical structure of the foot.
Assembly allowances are added to the obtained contours. After building the
allowances, detailing is done. As a rule, in boots, part of the union goes to the back of
the foot from the point of its bending and above (to the ridge of the shoe). Therefore,
its fold line is built from point C upwards along the URK according to the sketch. To
cut out a union from a flat material, the pattern of the parts is rolled relative to a
straight line, keeping the same length of the contours of the union, which are stitched
with freebies.
When designing boots with a "zipper" fastener, the front vertical line is drawn
through a point7, which is found in this way. From point 1 to the right, 3 mm is set
aside and point 6 is obtained, from which 120 mm is set aside, point 7 is obtained,
through which the front free line is drawn. The back contour of the freebie in this case
90
passes through points V'k A, 6, 13, 11, 12. The rest of the parameters are given in
table 7.

91
 Fig.74 – Designing the structural basis of boots
The "zipper" fastener line is drawnso. The free space along lines 10-12 and 6-
7 is divided in half and the received points are connected by a straight line, which is
continued downwards depending on the design of the lower part of the boots, but not
below the point located at a distance of 25 mm from the lower contour of the URK. If
the fastener is plastic, then the cut line may be somewhat rounded, and if it is metal,
then straight.
After the construction of the ground model, the templates of the parts are cut
outof paper and make a mock-up of the workpiece with the help of NC rubber glue.
The resulting mock-up of the workpiece is tried on the pad and the quality of the "fit"
is checked. If the quality is satisfactory, then appropriate corrections are made to the
primer model, namely allowances for the thickness of the internal and intermediate
parts of the bottom and lining; on
92
processing of the visible edges of the top partsand their stitching; tightening edge,
taking into account the deformation of the workpiece during the forming process
(Fig. 74).

7.5. The method of designing women's boots according to the German method.
The boot is being designedaccording to the sweep from the block with all the
structural points applied to it with a trailing edge.
Firstto the line Bk1M of the scan, draw a perpendicular so that it touches the
most convex point of the heel - Bk1Bk2. Through point B (foot bend point)
perpendicular to the Vk1M line, we draw a straight line MN, which is the front line of
the freebie. From point M, we set aside the height of the boot.
For the 37th size, the height of the boot is 400-410 mm. The girth of the block
in VkV is 360 mm, half of the girth is 180 mm.
Through the point in relation to the front line of the freebie at an angle of 82-
87°, draw the line of the upper edge of the freebie. From point N on the line of the
upper edging, we set aside the width of the free space, which is equal to the oblique
grip of 180 mm - point N2.
We are building a line of the heel part of the freebie. From the Vp⁄b point on the
scanwe set aside 6 mm towards the heel, we get the point Вп ⁄ b1. Then from the point
Vp⁄b1 down to the most convex point of the scan and then along the line of the scan to
the point Vk.
Through point B in relation to the front line of the boot at an angle of 70°, we
draw the line of the free entrance. On this line, from point B, we set aside the value of
the oblique grip plus 2-3 mm (180 mm + 2 mm) - the segment VE.
From point M upwards along the front line of free space MN, we set aside 310 -
320 mm
- the height of the widest part of the free space MD. Along the drawn
perpendicularfrom point D to line MN, we set aside half of the girth of the leg for the
37th size - 175 mm. We get point D1. We connect the points N1, D1, E, Vpb, Vk with
a smooth curve and obtain the line of the free heel contour. To draw the inner contour
of the freebie along the upper edge, from its middle down perpendicularly, we set
aside 10 mm. We draw the line of the upper edging from the outside in the same way,
we set aside 10 mm upwards.
the linewe make the bend of the union by connecting points B and H. Point H is
4-5 mm lower than the most convex point of the toe part of the sweep. We set aside
the size of the trailing edge from the lower contour of the sweep.

Table8 - Width and length dimensions for a tall boot

Dimensionsi Half of the girth
Leg Freebie
n the mass of the lower leg,
girth,mm height,mm
system mm
42 400 200 430
41 396 198 427

93
40 388 194 421
39 384 192 418
38 376 188 412

94
 Fig. 75– Construction of the structural basis of boots according to
German
methodology

LITERARY SOURCES
1. RunawayV.I. and others. Workshop on construction and design of footwear,
Khmelnytskyi: KhNU, 2013. – 252 p.
2. Humynskaya N.P. Construction of shoes, Minsk: Literatureand Arts, 2011. - 94 p.
3. KlyuchnikovaV.M. etc. Workshop on the design of leather products. - M.:
Legprombytizdat, - 1985. -336p.
4. MakarovV.S. Modeling and construction of shoes and shoes, M.:
Legpromobrazovanie, 2003. – 174 p.
5. Basics of designand production of leather products. Omelchenko N.M., Kernesh
V.P., Konoval V.P. Part 1. K.: KNUTD, - 2009, - 194 p.
6. Practicumon designing and designing shoes. (Under the general editorship of V.I.
Begnyak), - Khmelnytskyi: TUP, 2002, - 272 p.
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