Draw String Neckline:

 
It is a neckline with cord, threaded through a caseing (i.e folded edge with gap
to insert Tape) to be gathered and adjusted high or low. These are mostly used in
Kid's wear like, Jabla, Nighty and in ladies skirt top.
 Step 1
1) Take body measurements and trace a pattern that looks like this. The sleeves area of the back
part should be narrower for a sexier effect.
2)Sew dart. Front piece only.
3)Sew sleeves. Remember: Snip before folding, for a cleaner finish.
4) Sew both sides of dress and attach a side zipper.

Step 2
5) Fold necklines and sew, leaving allowance for the string to pass through. [String: you can
make one out of the same fabric as the dress or use ribbon or other available strings.]

Step 3
6) Sew POCKET:
a) Sew a 2-inch strip of floral (or not) fabric to the top part of the pocket. Sew to the dress.

6) Hem dress.
7) Insert string through the gap on the necklines. Tie at the side.
 Boat Neckline
 

It is a boat shaped neckline, approximately following curve of the collarbone,

high in front and back, wide at sides, and ending in or at shoulder seams. Its front
neck depth is generally kept more than the other neck depths.
To make the bateau neckline, raise the center front neckline approximately 1/2”. 

Mark a point at the center of the shoulder seam for the width of the neckline.

Join the 2 points with a VERY

gentle curve. When worn, the neckline should appear almost straight across the neck.

On the back bodice, lower the center back neck about 1/2”. The back neck is actually scooped
out a bit.

Again, mark a point at the center of the shoulder seam and join the points with a gentle curve.
The back neck may seem lower than the front at this point, but it is not. Since the front
neck is much lower than the back in the original draft, raising the front and lowering the back a
bit does not change the overall balance at the neckline.

This neckline is best used with a knit fabric, as it pulls over the head easily.

The neckline could be finished with knit binding, bias tape, a facing, or a simple turn-and-stitch
hem.

If using a woven fabric, it should have a facing, and an opening in the back of the garment
(either a keyhole at the back neck, or a back zipper).

Notched Neckline
 This simple detail transforms the basic blouse or top into a fashion
statement, without fussiness (in the drafting, sewing or wearing).  It reveals a tiny
pendant on a chain, or, with a really great button to close the very top of the notch,
it's a statement in itself.

Drafting the little vent couldn't be easier.

The vent looks best at about 2 1/2" to 3" in length. Make a mark at that point, down from the
center front neck.

For an open vent, make another mark 3/4" to 1" from the center front, along the neckline. Draw
a line between the two marks - easy!  That's it!

If you want a slightly larger and wider neckline, like the one shown above (to pull over the
head more easily), just "scoop out" the neck a bit.

I like it a bit wider, so I'd widen the neck about 3/4" to 1" on each side, and lower it about 1/2"
at the front (following the BLUE dashed lines). 

Widen the back the same as the front, but I usually lower the back neck only about 1/4 - 1/2".

If you want to close the vent at the top with a cool button or brooch, just cut the vent along
the center front line; don't angle it like the sketch. The corners must meet at the top for the
button or pin, so you really just need a slit at the front neck.

This neckline is best finished with a facing.

V-Neck

It is shaped in front to a sharp point like the letter 'V'. On the centre front of
the pattern, mark a point for the depth desired and draw a line to this point from the
neck end of the shoulder line.
 The V-neck is another easy variation on the basic neckline, and one I find
especially flattering. It looks great filled in with a necklace.

Drafting this neckline is even easier than the notch.

Your center front mark is just a bit lower (for balance with the width) - go about 3" to 3 1/2"
down from the center front neckline.

Then just draw a line from that mark to the shoulder point.  You could make that line a gentle
curve if you prefer, but the straight line will work just fine.  That's it!!

Again, the back neck needs no modification.

This neckline can be finished with a facing, bias tape, or, if made in a knit, use a ribbed band.

And, of course, you can make it deeper or wider if you prefer.

Could anything be easier?

This is a great way to get your feet wet if you're new to pattern design and uncomfortable with
collars.

Keyhole Neckline
 
It is a high round neckline with inverted wedge shaped opening at front.
These necklines looks good when it is finished with fitted facing. The depth of
round neckline and inverted wedge can be changed according to desire.
 Keyhole neckline blouses are the epitome of easy-to-make elegance, a small
detail that feminizes and embellishes any blouse.

Peter Pan Collar

The Peter Pan Collar is a basic, rounded collar that sits flat against the neckline of a
blouse. It is a classic style that can be used on something as modest as a schoolgirl blouse or
as sophisticated as a satin evening blouse.
 This simple neckline treatment is very easy to draft, easy to sew, and can be as
large or as small as you'd like it to be. 
While the rounded front is the traditional look, you could also do a square,
pointed shape at the front of the collar.  Unlike a shirt collar, this style will not stand
up against the neck, so even a square front version will still be a Peter Pan.

Drafting the Peter Pan Collar

This collar is very easy to draft.  Simply follow the curve of the neckline (at whatever width
you wish) and add a curve at the center front opening.

A basic Peter Pan is about 2" wide.  If you choose that width, draw a line 2" from the neck
curve from the shoulder line almost to the front of the bodice. As you approach the center
front, swing the curve up to the neckline. This creates your front collar shape.

You can do this "by eye", drawing a shape that is pleasing to you.

On the back, you will again follow the shape of the neckline, drawing a line 2" away from the
neckline, from shoulder to shoulder.
This collar may be any width you choose; it can be very small and dainty at about 1 1/4 - 1
1/2” wide, or it can make a bold statement at more than 2” wide.

Use the collar on a crisp, white cotton blouse, or add a satin collar to a crepe blouse (with
satin covered buttons) for evening wear. There is nothing schoolgirl about that!

The collar is sewn with 2 ply of fabric (usually self-lined), and set by basting to the edge of the
neckline. The neckline is then finished, typically, with bias tape (be sure to stitch your tape in
place under the collar; so it is hidden) or a facing.

Convertible Collar
 The convertible collar offers a bit more structure to a shirt or blouse than the
Peter Pan, but is not as tailored as a banded shirt collar.  It can be worn open or
closed (hence the name), and looks very nice in a contrast fabric.
Worn open, the collar creates a lapel for a tailored, almost jacket-like
opening.  It sits open much more elegantly than a traditional, tailored shirt collar,
yet does not appear too casual.
It is, however, the collar used on camp shirts, often made of brightly colored
prints (Hawaiian shirts use the convertible collar, for example).

Drafting the Convertible Collar

Start by tracing your blouse neckline and placing a mark 1" from the center front.  This is
where the collar will end; it does not overlap at center front. This will also help to create the
lapel when worn open.

Then measure the front neck from that point to the shoulder (record the measurement), and
measure the back neck from center back to the shoulder (record that measurement, too).

 On a separate piece of pattern or craft paper, draw a line (AB) that is the length of the
front and back neck measurements combined (the sum of the front and the back
measurements). "A" will be the center back, so measure from "A”, the length of the back
neckline and make a mark.  This will become a notch that identifies the shoulder seam.
 From A, draw a line perpendicular (at a 90 degree angle) up 2 1/2" to "C".  This is the
width of your collar.  Draw a similar line from "B" to "D" (2 1/2" up, squared to line
AB). Draw line CD (the top edge of your collar).
 Mark a point 1/2" up from point "B" along BD. Draw a gently curved line from that point
back to point "A".  This is your new neckline.
 Mark another point 3/4" from point "D". Draw a line between the two new points; this is
the front edge and point of the collar.
If you mirror this draft (or trace it on folded paper, with the fold along AC, the center back
line), it will look like the pattern above.  Be sure to mark your shoulders and center back; it's
much easier to sew with markings.

This collar, you'll notice, does not follow the shape of the neckline and is, in fact, almost
straight.  That is what allows the collar to fold nicely and stand up near the neck, rather than
laying flat against the blouse.

There are several more steps to making this pattern than a simple Peter Pan, but it's not hard,
and it looks so nice!

Button-down Collars
 A wardrobe staple, for boys and girls, this shirt is both versatile and polished.
The pattern features many professional details like separate button-down collar and
collar band, tower sleeve placket, and collar and cuff facings to help you sew great
looking shirts with a comfortable, relaxed fit

Instructions

1. Add Fusible Interfacings to Collar Pieces

Most classic shirt collars are made up of two pattern pieces: the collar (the piece shown at the
bottom in the image above) and the collar stand (the curved piece at the top). You’ll need two
of each piece, so the fabric will be folded to double.

Attach fusible interfacings to one of each piece to give them structure and body. Do this before
you pin and cut out your pattern pieces — make sure to test-run your interfacing on scraps to
help you decide what works best with your particular fabric.

2. Sew the Long Collar Seam

Once your interfacing is done, pin and cut your fabrics using the pattern pieces. Before
removing the pattern pieces, transfer the pattern markings — on the collar stand, you may see
notches for matching, and dots or triangles to mark the shoulder point where the collar attaches
to the shirt.

With the markings transferred, move the pattern pieces out of the way and place the collar
pieces right sides together. Sew the seam on the long outer edge, as shown in the image above.

Pro Tip: If your collar pattern has 5/8″ seams (instead of smaller 3/8″ seams), it’s a good idea to
trim them down after stitching to reduce bulk.
Press the long seam open. Doing this before turning and pressing will give you a crisper edge.

3. Sew the Short Edge Seams

Sew the side edges of the collar. Use a shorter stitch near the point for extra security.

4. Trim and Turn

Carefully trim away the point of the collar, as shown above. Depending on the angle of your
collar point, you may have to trim more than a diagonal. Regardless, the goal is to have the
seam allowances “kiss” in the middle. (Be careful when you do this — you don’t want to trim
through your stitching.)
Turn the collar right side out. With a point turner (or another blunt tool), gently push the corner
to create the point. Take your time so you don’t poke a hole in the fabric; you can tease the last
bit of the corner out with a pin or needle if necessary.

5. Press the Collar

Press the collar flat. Roll the seam edge ever so slightly toward the underneath, as it offsets the
bottom edge just a bit.

6. Attach the Collar to the Collar Stand

Line up the collar to the interfaced collar stand piece using the dots and notches as guides (as
shown in the top portion of the image above). Stitch the collar to the interfaced stand.

Take the collar stand piece that doesn’t have interfacing (as shown in the bottom portion of the
image), and press up the seam allowance on the curved edge. Sandwich the collar between the
two collar stand pieces, wrong sides facing out and notches matching. Pin in place, then stitch
from corner to corner using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

7. Trim the Seam Allowances on the Collar Stand

Trim the edges of the now-attached collar stand, leaving about 1/8″, as shown above. There’s
no need for notches, and the seam turns right side out beautifully.

8. Press Your Collar Again

Turn your collar and stand right side out and press the round sides, working the seam to the
edge to get a crisp finish. Press the rest of the collar.

Remember, not all collars are the same, and instructions may vary based on your pattern. Be
sure to follow yours closely for a crisp, ultra-fresh result!

Tab Collar
With a small strap that buttons or snaps to the other side of the space between
the ends of the collar.
 It keeps the collar in place without the need for a pin. It is elegant and a tie is
recommended to wear with this collar.

Prepare the pattern

1. Draft the tab pattern. Work on graph paper with a 1⁄8-inch grid for the greatest precision.
Draw a line the length of the desired finished placket, plus 3 inches. For a placket that finishes
at 1-3⁄8 inches wide, draw lines at the intervals shown in the diagram. Draw a straight line
across the top and bottom; the neckline curve will be established later. Label the lines, and mark
the opening’s bottom end 1 inch above the lower line.

Draft the tab pattern

2. Cut the tab. Cut one of fashion fabric, and transfer the pattern lines to the wrong side.
Staystitch at the outer lines 3⁄8 inch from the long cut edges. Using a template as a guide, press
under the long edges along this line.

Cut the tab

Attach the tab

1. Establish the garment’s center front. If the pattern has no front opening, mark the center front
on the garment’s wrong side. If the pattern has a front opening, fold back any extensions or
facings at the center front and mark this line “Place on fold.”

2. Cut the front. Place the center-front line on the fabric fold and cut. Mark the center-front line
on the right side with removable marker, chalk, or hand basting.

3. Pin the tab in place. With right sides together, place the tab on the garment front, aligning the
tab’s center-front line on the garment center front. Let the tab extend above the garment
neckline edge slightly, to be trimmed later.
attaching the tab

4. Sew the placket opening edges. Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm and stitch 1⁄8 inch from the
slash line, from neck to base. At 1⁄2 inch from the bottom, shorten the stitch length to 1.0 mm or
1.5 mm. At the bottom, pivot with the needle down and sew one or two stitches across the
bottom. Pivot again and sew up the opposite side of the slash line, 1
⁄8 inch away. Sew for 1⁄2 inch, then lengthen the stitch length to 2.0 mm.

5. Slash the opening. Cut carefully along the slash line, all the way to the tip.

lash the opening

Complete the installation

1. Press and turn the tab. Press it to the left and the right to establish foldlines along the opening
edge. Then turn the tab layer to the garment wrong side. The narrower edge faces the overlap
side; the wider edge forms the underlap.

Press and turn the tab

2. Press the tab creases. Press the wider underlap edge along its remaining foldline, so the first
fold aligns with the slash stitching. Verify that all the slash seam allowances are enclosed within
the tab folds, and press the tab layers. Secure the folds with Lite Steam-A-Seam 2.

Press the tab creases

3. Clean-finish the tab bottom. Serge across the raw edges or, if preferred, finish with a low-
bulk binding.

4. Edgestitch the overlap side. From the garment wrong side, edgestitch along the tab’s fold
edge. Leave long thread tails. Pull them to the wrong side and tie.

Edgestitch the overlap side

5. Edgestitch the underlap side. From the right side, edgestitch on the tab side of the slash
seamline, to anchor the tab’s folded edge. Sew from the neckline to the bottom of the opening
and backstitch.

6. Topstitch the tab bottom. Press the tab over- and underlap into position and pin. From the
right side, sew a rectangle across the tab bottom. Pull the thread tails to the wrong side and tie.
opstitch the tab bottom
7. Trim the neckline. Cut off the excess tab fabric extending beyond the neckline edge.

Standing Collar
Collars can easily change the look of any garment, and it’s easy to create a
Standing Collar once you learn how! Simple collars like these can make any dress
shirt more professional, and timeless. Moreover, they can even be a focal point of
design; with pins, brooches and ties, you can always dress up your collars for that
well sought-after stylish edge.
 With this simple, step by step tutorial, you’ll be adding Standing Collars to
your necklines in no time, while being at the pinnacle of your fashion career!
Mandarin Collar
 The Mandarin collar is a close-fitting stand up collar.  All you need to make
this collar is the neckline measurements of your block; the front neck and the back
neck measurements.

Note that the Mandarin collar is also the base for the two-piece shirt collar; i.e.
the two pieces consist of a stand (also called a band) and a collar - the stand is the
Mandarin collar.
 As you don't want the collar base to stretch, you need a full pattern piece.

Instructions (Mandarin Collar) - Figure 1

 Measure the Back Neck curve and Front Neck curve of your Bodice Block.

 Add these two measurements together

In this example the Front Neck is 4.56 inches and the Back Neck is 3.25 inches.  Total neckline
measurement (for half-block) = 7.81-inches.
 Instructions (Mandarin Collar) -  Figure 2
This mandarin collar will be 1.5-inches wide.

If you want to end up with the whole collar pattern piece (rather than just half to cut-on-fold), 
fold a piece of paper and put the CB line on the fold. (Whether you create the full pattern piece
or the half to cut-on-fold is up to you, taking you design and worth methods into consideration. 
Sometimes you may not want to the straight grain to go down the centre back and so need the
whole pattern piece).

 Draw a rectangle:

o the height of the rectangle is the collar width (A to B) -  1.5 inches.

o the length of the rectangle is the Total Neckline measurement (A to C).  In my example
7.81 inches.

Instructions (Mandarin Collar) -  Figure 3

 Using the Back Neck measurement, measure from point A and mark the Shoulder Point D.

 Square up from D and mark point E on the top line.

 Measure up for 0.75-inch from point C and mark point F.

 Instructions (Mandarin Collar) -  Figure 4

 Draw a line from D to F.

 Using the collar width measurement (1.5-inches), measure up from F at right angles to the
D~F line, and label point G.

 Draw a line from E to G.

Instructions (Mandarin Collar) -  Figure 5

 Draw a curve a the top front (point G) as shown.

Instructions (Mandarin Collar) -  Figure 6

 Add seam allowance.

 Cut out your collar and open it up.

 Make sure your shoulder notches are marked.

 Label, and mark cutting instructions.

Puffed Sleeves
 It is puffed at the top and tapers down to a tight fit at the bottom. It usually has
many buttons decorating the tightly fitted part of the sleeve. This style is another
popular wedding dress style.

Added volume only at the top.

 Flared Sleeve

A flared sleeve can be either long or short and is usually set smoothly into the armscye
(no pleating or shirring) and flares toward the bottom. Bell sleeves end anywhere from the
elbow to the wrist. Flared sleeves ending at the upper bicep are similarly shaped, but are instead
called butterfly sleeves.
Choose the length of the sleeve and then slash and spread. I made a short version.

If you want to try a different effect, gather the volume instead of leaving it free.
 Trumpet sleeve

Here’s quite a subtle version of the trumpet sleeve. This has just one vertical
cut in the middle. At the elbow-level there are these horizontal cuts that allow you
to make the trumpet-shape. Try opening it a bit more, if you want a more
pronounced shape.
 Bishop Sleeves
A bishop sleeve is a long sleeve that is gathered at the bottom with a button
cuff, slit and facing. This lesson will teach you the principles of 'slashing and
spreading' to add fullness to sleeves, as well as to other areas of a garment.
 Peasant Sleeve
This one is the same as the bishop-sleeve, but it has volume at the sleeve-cap
as well. So I took this opportunity to show you how you can also add different
amount of volume at the top and at the bottom.
 Maxi Skirt
A maxi skirt is an item that every lady should own. Not only do these full-
length skirts look fantastic, but they’re also seriously versatile. When styled right,
they can suit a range of occasions along with every season. Additionally, the
comfortable and chic style can flatter anybody. So, whether you’re tall or short,
curvy or column-shaped, a maxi skirt can work for you. All you need to do is find
the right design and partner it with the right pieces. 
 Fold the fabric in quarters, and lay it out as shown below, with the corner of both folds in the
upper left. Take two measurements: the widest part of your hips (mine is 42), and the
finished length of the skirt (mine is 36). Divide the hips measurement by 4 and add one inch to
get your measurement A (11.5), and add an inch to the length measurement to get
your measurement B (37).
 Most gathered skirts have you cut a rectangle, but we want more of an A-line shape that
has a slightly curved waistline and hemline. This gives you less gathers at the waist but still
gives a fullness at the hemline. Starting a few inches down from the main corner (photo above),
pin a slightly curved waistline that measures the length of your measurement A (mine was 11.5
inches). From the end of this curve, measure down and out to the edge of the fabric, using
measurement B (mine was 37 inches). Continue to measure B inches down from the waistline,
making a gently curved hem that matches the gently curved waistline. Cut along the pins and
you’ll have two pieces that look like this:

Ok, the measuring and cutting is by

far the hardest part. The sewing is
easy! Grab some elastic (1 to 1.5
inches wide) and cut it an inch shorter
than your waist measurement. Sew
the ends together and zigzag the seam
allowance flat. Place the two skirt pieces
RST and sew down the sides. (You’ll
notice the photos here switch to the
original (knee length) skirt I made
using this tutorial. That’s because the sewing portion is exactly the same for either a knee length
or maxi length skirt.)

Pompom Skirt
For a little girl’s skirt, you will need 1/2 yard of two different fabrics, plus about a yard and a
half of pom pom trim. You’ll also need matching thread and enough 3/4 inch wide elastic to go
around your girl’s waist. You can make this skirt in any size you’d like, but you will need more
fabric for sizes above a 7/8.
Be sure to prewash and dry your fabric. It’s a good idea to use the same type of fabric for both
sides of the skirt. Also be aware that if you use a quilting cotton, the skirt will be stiffer and will
stick out more at the bottom. I used a cotton lawn, which is lighter weight and has a bit more
drape than a quilting cotton.
To begin, you need two measurements. First, you’ll need to measure around your girl’s waist.
That will be measurement A. Then you need to measure from the waist to knee. That will
be measurement B.
Multiply measurement A by 2 to get the width of the fabric. My daughter’s waist is about 21
inches, so I cut my fabric to 42 inches wide. Then add 1 inch to the waist-to-
knee measurement B to get the length of your fabric. Cut each of your two fabrics to those
measurements (mine ended up being 42 inches wide by 14 inches long).

Next you need to sew the pom pom trim around one end of the first tube of fabric. I don’t worry
about pinning this first; I just place one piece of fabric on the sewing machine and line up the
pom pom trim on top of it, making sure that my seam is 1/2 an inch away from the edge of the
fabric (see photo below).
This is what it looks like now – one of your tubes of fabric has pom pom trim sewn along
the bottom:

To do this, pin together both fabrics as directed above, but before sewing them together, cut the
front of the skirt lower at the waistline by about an inch, as shown by the dots below.

Once you’ve done that, you can sew all the way around the top of the skirt, using a 1/2 inch
seam allowance.
Then you will flip the skirt so each fabric is right side out, and press. I like to topstitch 1/8 inch
away from the top edge of the waistband, but that is optional. You also need to sew 1 inch away
from the top edge of the waistband to create a casing that you can put elastic through. When
you sew 1 inch away from the top edge, be sure to leave a 2-3 inch opening for threading
elastic, as you see in the photo below.
NOTE: For these seams (as well as the final hem seam), your thread will be visible on both
fabrics. Either choose a thread that will coordinate with both fabrics, OR use different colored
thread in the top thread and bobbin so it will match both sides of the skirt. I used white thread in
the top thread for the floral side of my skirt, and teal thread in the bobbin to match the teal side
of my skirt.
At this point the skirt will look like this:

Fishtail Circle Skirt

There’s not even a seam if you use the right fabric. Its light weight with fantastic
drape, and it comes 74″ wide. That means you can cut out the skirt in one seamless
piece, for most sizes/height
Before we begin, we need to do some measuring and some
math.
FIRST – Determine waist radius measurement. If you have never sewn an elastic waist
circle skirt, then the very first thing you need to do is to hop over to Dana’s (MADE) circle skirt
tutorial and determine your elastic waist measurement and waist radius measurement. You’ll
revisit this tutorial for the last step when you attach the waist band too.

NEXT – Determine hem lengths. Measure from your waist to where you want the shortest part
of the skirt to end. This is the “front hem” measurement. Do not add for hem allowance,
because there will be no hem! Then measure from your waist to your heels or the floor. This is
the “back hem” measurement.

TIP- Remember that this fabric is very stretchy. It will “grow” a little bit, when worn. Consider
cutting your skirt 1 inch shorter than desired, if you are sure you want a very specific length.
Only compensate for the front hem though. Having a little extra length in the back is fine,
especially if you plan on wearing this skirt with heels.

DO YOUR MATH – Figure out how big you need to cut your circle. Add your front hem
and back hem measurements, then divide by two. Next, add your waist radius. The final answer
= the radius of the circle you need to cut from your fabric.

For example. I measured a 22 inch front hem, a 38 inch back hem, and had a 4.3 inch waist
radius…which equals a 34.3 inch radius for my initial circle cut.

DETERMINE FABRIC REQUIREMENT – Figure out how much fabric is needed and
gather materials. Double your “circle to cut radius” to determine how wide and long you need
your fabric. In general, most sizes will need about 2 yards of 74″ wide fabric.

Now you’re ready to gather your…

MATERIALS:

2+ yards of 74″ wide knit fabric (yardage as determined above; see my links and notes about
74″ wide fabric toward the top of the post)

2 inch wide elastic, cut to your waist measurement + 2 inches 

matching thread (match elastic color)

tailor’s chalk or washable fabric marker

Knit Pencil
You could sew a re ally awe some pencil skirt!
And all your friends will think it c ame from their fa vorite store ,
bec ause it’s gonna be all professiona l a nd a ma zing looking.
Supplies:
knit or stretchy material (preferably thicker material)
sewing machine or needle and thread
thread
scissors
flexible measuring tape
fabric pen or marking chalk
iron
pins

Instructions:
*Note: if you are making it from non-stretchy material, you must install a zipper because it
won’t be able to slide on over your hips very easily.
1. Measure in inches your:
natural waist (make sure it can slip over your hips)
lower waist/or love handle area (not that anyone has them!)
Hip/booty area
length of top of hips to bottom of hips
how tight you want it around your knees
length from natural waist to knees
2. Add an inch to your natural waist, lower waist, booty, knees measurements then divide by 2
EX. if you have a 28 inch waist + add 1 inch = 29 inches,
then divide by 2 = 14.5 inches
3. Take a piece of stretchy or non-stretchy fabric fold in half – make sure that it is within the
longest width and length of your pencil skirt’s measurement.
4. take a fabric marker or pins and mark the center of the fabric when folded
– the first picture below is folded and marked down the middle!
5. Take all new measurements (EX. 14.5 inches) and center them evenly down the center of the
folded fabric in their appropriate places – MARK!!! Just like the first picture shows! if you
want to add a little bit extra just in case, that is wise because it can always be taken in! Make
sure to account for the length of your hips and the length from your natural waist to the top of
the hips. Tapper from the bottom of the hips to the knees.
6. At this point you cut on the marked lines and pin
7. SEW taking a 1/4 – 1/2 seam allowance in account!
8. If you want to add a zipper ( with most stretchy fabrics you don’t have to!) then you can do
so now!
9. Hem top and bottom by folding it over and sewing with zig zag stitch or straight stitch as
long as you stretch it as you sew – but if you are using knit fabric it doesn’t fray and you don’t
have to hem! yahoo!
10. IRON excess fabric from seam allowance down in opposite directions, so it leaves a very
flat and clean line on the outside! This is very important, because it makes it look finished.

Circle Skirt
This skirt is one of the easiest pieces I’ve made. It does require a zipper, but besides
that it comes together so quickly and looks so professional.
Fold your fabric in half, and along the folded edge, cut a large half-donut shape, as shown.
Measure the inner half circle (waist) by finding your waist radius using the following equation:
waist measurement / 3.14 / 2 = radius
make a point in the very center of the inner circle (which will be right on the folded edge since
your fabric is folded in half), and measure the radius distance in every direction from this point
to form a perfect half circle. Next, determine how long you want the skirt, and repeat for the
outer half circle.
Finally, cut two (2) waistband pieces on the bias (diagonally, so you get a bit of stretch). These
pieces should be half of your natural waist measurement, plus an extra inch for your seam
allowance.