Professional Documents
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FP1 3
FP1 3
Learning Objectives: At the end of the semester, the students will be able to:
1. Explain and internalize the chemical processing and Steps in developing black and white films
2. Know the importance of a Forensic Photographer and crime scene photography
3. Explain and internalize the task of a scene of the crime operations
1. Understand and must able to discuss the sequential photographs of the crime scene, types of Range and
etc.
2.
Film Processing
-is the method of processing the expose film in the chemicals in order to produce negative copies
known as the partial product of photography which is the basis of producing the photographs or positive
copies during printmaking. Hence, after the film has been exposed to light with the aid of camera the
image of the object there is only latent or temporary so to make it visible and permanent it is necessary to
process in chemicals. This stage of photography is critical because once the film would be destroyed
during its processing in chemicals no more image to be formed in short no more negative and it cannot
proceed in printmaking, therefore utmost care is very significant.
Darkroom
- It is a room that can be made completely dark to allow the processing of light sensitive
photographic materials, including photographic film and photographic paper.
Changing Bag
- lacking a darkroom, a photographer can make use of a changing bag. The changing bag is small
bag with sleeved arm holes specially designed to be completely light proof and used to prepare film prior
to exposure or developing.
Developing Tank
- It is a light-tight container used for developing film. A developing tank allows photographic
film to be developed in a daylight environment. This is useful because most film is panchromatic and
therefore cannot be exposed to any light during processing. Depending upon the size and type, a
developing tank can hold one too many roll or sheet films.
1.3 THE STOP BATH- 1:3 chemical to water mix. Mix the stop bath and water together and store in
gallon jug.
1.4 THE FIXER- 1:4 chemical to water mix. Mix the fixer and water together and store in a gallon jug.
1.5 Once the chemicals have been mixed and stored in the gallon jugs, you need to bring them to the
correct temperature. Fill a large sink (like your kitchen sink) with water that is 68 degrees Fahrenheit
(20 degrees Celsius). Use the thermometer to get correct temperature. This is very important. Now
put your gallon jugs of chemicals in the sink, floating in the water. These chemicals must be 20
degrees Celsius when you use them. You are going to put them in 68 degrees water because the
temperature of the water is going to drop a bit while bringing the chemicals to the correct
temperature. You really must be very accurate when it comes to the chemical temperatures. More
than 1 degree above or 1 degree below 20 degrees can have a big effect on the film. Remember, the
final chemical temperature you want is 20 degrees, and you are soaking the chemicals in 68 degrees
water because the gallon jugs will sit in the water for at least 30 minutes, and the water temperature
will drop a couple degrees during that time.
1.6 Pop open the film canister, remove the film, load the film onto the film real and place the reel inside
the developing tank. This must be in complete darkness inside the darkroom or a changing bag. No
light whatsoever. No red safety lights either. Take the scissors, bottle opener, film canister, film reel,
and developing tank into a dust free room that you can make light tight. For the moment, you can
have the room lights turned on.
1.7 Place the tools out in front of you, possibly on a desk. You are going to be loading the film onto the
reel in complete darkness, so make sure you lay the tools out in a way that you can find them in the
dark.
1.8 Turn off the lights. Use the bottle opener to pop the bottom off the film canister, which should be very
easy. While only touching the film negative from the edges, pull the film out of the canister. The film
will be tapped to the center film spool. Make sure you cut it off right at the base of the spool or you’ll
be cutting through your pictures. Also cut the tip off the film (the odd shaped piece that sticks out of
the canister when you first buy the film) so that it’s flat. You only need to cut about 1 inch off the tip.
1.9 Spool the film onto the film reel. While not touching the surface of the negative, slide the negative
into the opening surface of the negative, slide the negative into the opening of the reel. Slide about 4
inches of film into the reel. Start walking the film onto the reel by twisting one side of the reel back
and forth. To be clear on this, keep your left hand steady, and with your right hand twist the right side
of the reel forward, then bring it back. Continue doing this until all the film is loaded onto the reel.
1.10 Place the reel inside the developing tank, and screw the lid onto the tank. The tank is now light-tight,
and you can turn on the lights. Even though the developing tank has a hole in the top for pouring in
the chemicals, it is in fact light-tight. Pour water into the tank, let stand for 1 minute, this is called
pre-wetting and will make the film swell up and accept the developer situation. Pour out the water.
1.11 Bring the developing tank to the sink where you have the chemical jugs floating in water. Check the
developer chemical with the thermometer. If it’s at 20 degrees Celsius, then you are ready to go. If it
is a higher than 20 degrees, then keep checking every 10 minutes until its ready. If it is below 20
degrees, add some hot water to the sink the gallon jugs are floating in. pour 1 ounce of the stock
developing solution into the graduated cylinder and then add 7 ounces of 20 degrees Celsius water to
that. You are making a “working solution” by using a 1:7 chemical to water ratio. To recap, you
made a stock solution of the developing chemical by using a 1:3 chemical concentrate to water ratio,
and then mixed that stock solution with 1:7 working chemical to water ratio.
1.12 With stopwatch in hand, pour the working developer into the hole in the top of the developing tank,
do this very quickly and start the stopwatch as soon as you have poured all the developer into the
tank. Smack the developing tank on a counter a few times to dislodge any bubbles that might be
clinging on to the film. Agitate the tank for 30 seconds. Do this by swirling the tank around. You are
going to leave the film in the developer for as many minutes are appropriate for your film type, or
commonly 5-6 minutes. Agitate the film for 5 seconds every 30 seconds. Agitation is very
important. Do not neglect to agitate the developing tank. The developing chemicals become
exhausted very shortly after coming in contact with the film. The agitation ensures that fresh
chemicals are touching the film. However, this exhaustion of the chemicals is an important part of
the process. Over agitating can give negative results or positive results. It depends on the look you
are going for. Too much agitation increases the contrast in the image but often you will damage the
film and see sprocket marks if you have over agitated.
1.13 When the stopwatch has reached 5-6 minutes from the end of your time, start pouring the developer
out of the top of the tank and into the sink drain. Do not take the lid off the developing tank.
1.14 For the stop bath you can use water at 20 degrees Celsius. Pour the water in the canister agitates for a
couple seconds and pour out, repeat 4 times. Or alternatively you can use the stop bath chemical.
With stopwatch in hand, quickly pour the stop bath into the top of the developing tank until the tank
is full. There is no need to dilute the stop bath more, so you can pour straight from the gallon jug.
Start the stopwatch when you have filled the tank up. Once again, smack the tank against a counter a
couple times to dislodge any bubbles. You are going to leave the film in the stop bath for 1 minute
and 20 seconds. The purpose of the stop bath is to neutralize any remaining developer left on the
film, and arrest the developing process.
1.15 When the stopwatch has reached 1 minute and 20 seconds, start pouring the stop bath out. Some stop
bath solutions, like Kodak indicator stop bath, can be re-used. If this is the chemical you are using,
then pour the stop bath back into the gallon jug for later use. The word “indicator” in Kodak
indicator stop bath means the chemical indicates when it is no longer any good. The chemical, when
mixed with water, is yellow. As long as the stop bath remains yellow in color, it is good to use.
1.16. Next, pour the fixer into tank until it is full. Assuming your fixer is prediluted, there is no need to
dilute the fixer more, so you can pour straight from the gallon jug. Start the stopwatch once the tank is
full. You are going to leave the film in the fixing solution for 6 minutes, as few as 4 rapid fixer. Smack
the tank against the counter to dislodge any bubbles Agitate the film for 3 seconds every 30 seconds.
Some people don’t agitate during the fixing process. It is safe to open the tank completely after 6 minutes.
1.17. Once the stopwatch has reached 6 minutes, pour the fixer out of the tank. Do not re-use the fixer.
You can now unscrew the top of the developing tank and expose the film negative to light. Once the film
has been “fixed”, it is no longer light sensitive. The rest of the process is done with the lid of the
developing tank off.
1.18. Put the developing tank under the running water. It’s time to wash all the chemicals off the film.
You are going to leave the film under the running water for 10 minutes. The water should fill up the
developing and overflow. Let it overflow. Every couple of minutes, dump out the water and let the tank
fill back up with fresh running water. You want to keep fresh 20 degrees water pouring into the
developing tank. This final washing part of the process is very important. 10 minutes is the minimum time
to wash the film, but you can do it longer. It is also important that you are washing the film with 20
degrees water. Using hotter or colder water can affect the final picture.
1.19. After the 10 minutes is up, lift the film reel out of the tank and lightly shake off any remaining
water. Turn the reel clockwise (could be counter-clockwise, depends on how you’re holding the reel, so
try them both) until the top half of the reel comes apart from the lower half of the reel. Now use one of the
film clips and clip it onto the end of the film negative. Some clips have small “hooks” on them. You can
run the hooks through the square holes running down the sides of the film, and thus avoid puncturing the
film negative. By lifting up the clip, pull the film up out of the reel. If everything went well, you should
see your pictures on the negative. Clip the other film clip onto the bottom of the negative. This will act as
a weight. Hang the negative up to dry in a room temperature, dust free room. Leave the negative to dry
for at least 2 hours. That’s it! You’re all done. You can now take the negatives and conduct printmaking
process to produce positive or photographs.
2. Tray Method
2.1 Prepare the chemicals on the gallon jugs according on the instructional guidelines of mixture.
2.2 Pour the working solutions on their respective trays such as developer, stop bath, fixer and hypo-
clearing agent.
2.3 Prior to open the film cartridge, switch off first the white light just to protect the film against
unwanted light that might destroy on it.
2.4. Open the fill cartridge through prying off the cap opposite the end, where long spool core protrudes.
2.5. Hold both edges and base of film avoid touching the emulsion or else the fingerprint will form,
immerse thoroughly the film in the developer tray until it is evenly wet and starts agitation through
pulling up or down motion for 5-6 minutes.
2.6 Transfer it to the stop bath’s tray and continue the same motion of agitation for 1 minute and 20
seconds.
2.7 Afterwards place it on the fixer’s tray and execute the same motion of agitation for about 6 minutes.
2.8. Wash the negative in water with 20 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes.
2.9. And lastly, clip the other film clip onto the bottom of the negative. This will act as weight. Hang the
negative up to dry in room temperature, dust free room. Leave the negative dry for at least 2 hours. And
you may now have the negatives and conduct printmaking process to produce positive or photographs.
Negative
- Usually on a strip or sheet of transparent plastic film, in which the lightest areas of the
photographed subject appear darkest and darkest areas appear lightest.
Printmaking
- is the final stage in making a photograph. The basis of photographer in the production of
positive or photograph is the negative copy serving as subject.
Enlarging
- In enlarging works we are using enlarger machine or projector. In this method of printmaking or
positive making we can produce the desired size of photographs since the enlarger is adjustable in terms
of height in its head carrying the negative copy. The rule is that the higher the enlarger head the bigger the
size of the image to project in an emulsion of photographic paper while the lower the head of the enlarger
the smaller the size of the projected images on the emulsion of photographic paper.
Enlarger
- is a darkroom tool which projects images from negatives onto enlarging paper for the purpose
of making prints. Enlargers are usually an integral part of the film photography process, unless
photographers are making contact prints, which are produced through a different process.
Contact printer
- an apparatus used for making contact prints, having a frame for holding printing paper and
negative together and alight source for making an exposure.
Positive
- It is a film or paper record of a scene that represents the color and luminance of objects in that
scene with the same colors and luminance as near the medium will allow.
ASSESSMENT:
Activity 3
PARTS OF THE CAMERA
OVERVIEW:
A camera by the most basic definition captures still photographs or video, either on film
or digitally. It is very hard to have an accurate and faithful representation of evidences if you
cannot understand the medium being used for the preservation and documentation of events or
evidences. Photos and videos taken with cameras are used to communicate or tell stories; it helps
a person to understand the story of a person, place or an event.
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to identify and demonstrate the different parts and functions of the
camera.
PROCEDURES:
Draw a SLR camera on Box B. Identify the different parts of the camera by labelling it using
capital letter. Refer to Box A.
BOX A
BOX B
II. PROCEDURE: Indicate the specific functions of the different parts of the camera.
Lens
Viewfinder
Shutter
Focusing ring
Focal length
Aperture ring
Hot shoe
Film sprocket
Film rail
Tripod socket
REFLECTION:
Write your comments or observations of the activity that you have just performed.
___________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
____.
Activity 4
TYPES OF CAMERA
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to determine the advantages and disadvantages of the
common and major types of camera.
KEYWORDS:
Box type camera Digital camera
Folding camera View Finder Camera
Single Lens Reflex Camera Twin Lens Reflex Camera
View Camera Miniature Camera
PROCEDURE:
Attach pictures of the given type of cameras and write their advantages and
disadvantages.
I. COMMON TYPES OF CAMERA
REFLECTION:
With all the advantages and disadvantages of each type of camera, write an article on which
camera do you think is more effective for police photography.
__________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________________________.
Name: __________________________ Date: ________
Instructor:_______________________ Rating:_________
Activity 5
CAMERA ACCESSORIES
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to identify the different accessories of the camera and its
functions.
KEYWORDS:
Tripod Filter
Cable Release Flash Units
Light Meter Extension Tube
Shutter release Lens Hood
PROCEDURE:
Write the different functions or purposes of each keyword;
SHUTTER RELEASE
TRIPOD:
CABLE
FLASH UNIT Light meter
II. REFLECTION:
How does this camera accessory help in producing quality image?
_______________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________________
Activity 6
CAMERA LENSES
OVERVIEW:
Lenses are vital in taking photographs. A good lens is necessary to avoid aberration
and to have very accurate photographs. The quality of the lens, the maximum size of the aperture
and other characteristics are to be considered. Lenses dictate what type of photographs you can
take.
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to determine the advantages and disadvantages of the
different camera lenses.
KEYWORDS:
Wide Angle Lens Telephoto Lens
Normal Lens Zoom Lens
Macro Lens Micro Lens
PROCEDURE:
Write the different types of camera lenses and give its advantages and
disadvantages.
Write a short article on what you have learned about the disadvantages and
advantages of the lenses.
________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
_.__________.
Forensic Photography
- Sometimes referred to as forensic imaging or crime scene photography, is the art of producing an
accurate reproduction of a crime scene or an accident scene using photography for the benefit of a court
or to aid in an investigation. It is a part of process of evidence collecting. It provides investigators with
photos of victims, places and items involved in the crime. Pictures of accidents show broken machinery,
or car cash, and so on. Photography of this kind involves choosing correct lighting, accurate angling of
lenses, and a collection of different viewpoints.
Each crime has an individual features that should be photographed. Keep in mind the nature of the
offense and try to show those features that establish the elements of the offense. Photographs should be
taken of:
1. Views of exterior of the building/vehicle, with relations to other buildings/vehicles, roads, street etc.
2. Points of entry, outside and inside
3. Point of exit, inside and and outside.
4. Condition (s) of the crime scene
5. Area from which valuable articles were removed.
6. Articles left at the scene
7. Tool marks and impressions of shoes or tire tracks.
8. Fingerprints and footprints, as well as articles on which these prints may be found
Three type of range Photographs
2. Finished Sketch
- is prepared in the office based on the rough sketch for purposes of court presentation. Not all
distances and measurements originally found on a rough sketch are shown in a final sketch.
a. Spiral Search
- is used for confined area. This works well in a small room. The
searchers follow each other along the path of a spiral starting from the outside and
proceeding towards the center.
b. Strip Search
- Divides the rectangular crime scene into imaginary strips or lanes and
the searcher (s) precede back and forth parallel to the strips created.
c. Grid Search
- Grid search is a modification of strip search method. This is also called
the double strip method. The searchers first use the strip method and then making 90
degrees turn and doing another strip search perpendicular to the first strip that was
searched.
c. Pie or Wheel Search
- finds useful application in the search for explosive evidence. A circle is
established surrounding the crime scene. The circle is divided into several quadrants
following the shape of a pie.
d. Quadrant, sector or zone search
- used when the search area is particularly large or cumbersome. It
requires the crime scene to be divided into four large quadrants. The four large
quadrants can also be subdivided into four smaller quadrants. Each quadrant or sector
is then searched separately as an individual unit using the spiral, strip or grid search
pattern.
Photographic Log
Microphotography
- Known as photomicrography or macrography, is the extreme close-up photography,
usually of very small subjects, in which the size of the subject in the photograph is
greater than life size, though macrophotography technically refers to the art of
making large photographs.
Photomicrography
-It is the practice of photographing microscopic objects or creatures, usually for scientific
purposes. Photomicrography is widely used in forensic laboratory and medical research, as well as other
fields that require study of microscopic details. This became an important tool for examining trace
evidence, tiny details than can connect a suspect to a crime scene. Camera zoom lenses and microscopes
work on the same basic principle: using magnifying lenses, and sometimes mirrors, to enlarge a point
while retaining clear focus. Early photomicrography involved complex arrangements of cameras and
microscopes
Mugshot
- It is a photographic portrait typically taken after a person is arrested. The original purpose of the
mugshot was to allow law enforcement to have a photographic record of an arrested individual to
allow for identification by victims and investigators. Photographing of criminals began in the
1840’s only a few years after the invention of photography, but it was not until 1888 that French
police officer Alphonse Bertillon standardized of the process. The following illustrations are the
different positions of arrested person’s mug shot.
Rogues Gallery
-is a police collection of pictures or photographs of criminals and suspects kept for
identification puposes. The term is also used figuratively for any group of shady characters or the
line-up of “mugshot” photographs that might be displayed in the halls of a dormitory or
workplace or on an online mugshot publishing website.
Chain of Custody
- refers to the order in which items of evidence have been handled during the
investigation of a case
Learning Activities: “CRIME SCENE PHOTOGRAPHY”
1.Instruction: Create a scenario based on the case given and perform the task of a Forensic Photographer.
Submit your work on our group page (forensic photography).
ASSESSMENT:
Activity 7
SOCO TEAM DUTIES & FUNCTIONS
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to identify the duties and functions of a SOCO TEAM.
PROCEDURE:
Write the duties & functions of all the SOCO team in the boxes provided below.
TEAM LEADER
EVIDENCE COLLECTOR
FORENSIC PHOTOGRAPHER
EVIDENCE CUSTODIAN
SECURITY OFFICER
ASSESSMENT:
Activity 8
COLLECTION & PRESERVATION OF PHYSICAL EVIDENCE
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to acquire knowledge in collection and preservation of physical
evidence. PROCEDURE:
Write your guidelines in the collection and preservation of physical evidence in the boxes
provided below.
HOW TO COLLECT HOW TO PRESERVE
Seminal Stain
Fiber
Hair
Firearms Evidence
Toolmarks
Poisons
Fingerprints
ASSESSMENT:
Name: __________________________ Date: ________
Instructor:_______________________ Rating:_________
Activity 9
EVALUATION OF POTENTIAL EVIDENCE
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to acquire knowledge in cases where the crime
scene needs special processing due to its significance or because of its sensational nature
PROCEDURE:
Complete the guidelines in Evaluation of Potential Evidence in the boxes provided.
Murder
Homicide
Rape
Arson
Poisoning
ASSESSMENT:
Activity 10
METHODS OF SEARCH
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to acquire knowledge and identify the methods of crime
scene search.
PROCEDURE:
Draw the five recommended search methods in the boxes provided.
SPIRAL SEARCH
STRIP SEARCH
GRID SEARCH
QUADRANT, SECTOR , OR ZONE SEARCH
Activity 11
RANGES OF PHOTOGRAPHS
OVERVIEW:
Globally, law enforcement agencies are now relying on the use of digital cameras to
document a crime scene. Courts have already recognized digital photographs as part of scientific
evidence. In the Philippines the PNP crime laboratory widely uses digital cameras as part of
processing the crime scene.
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to acquire knowledge on the use of digital photography to
document scene of the crimes.
MATERIALS:
CAMERA, MARKING INSTRUMENT, BOARD FOR CASE NUMBER, VICTIM AND
ETC.
PROCEDURE: In your crime scene scenario, document it with the use of Camera and attach the
general, medium and close up view/range photograph.
I. GENERAL VIEW OR LONG RANGE VIEW
Write a short article on why there is a need to apply the different methods of documenting the
crime scene.
______________________________________________________________________________
___________.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
___________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_________
OVERVIEW:
There are three ways of documenting a crime scene. They are photography, note taking
and sketching. will show exact relationships of objects like distance and directions.
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to acquire skills in sketching crime scenes.
MATERIALS:
Sketch pad
Compass
Measuring device
Pencil
PROCEDURE:
In your crime scene scenario, prepare a rough and finished sketch. Provide the complete
details needed in preparing a sketch.
ROUGH SKETCH
FINISHED SKETCH
Name: __________________________ Date: ________
Instructor:_______________________ Rating:_________
Activity 13
CARTOGRAPHIC SKETCH
OBJECTIVES:
The students will be able to enhance their techniques in drawing and reconstruct the
suspect face in hope of identifying.
MATERIALS:
Charcoal Pencil
1/8 illustration board
Suspect
PROCEDURE:
Draw the face of your suspect in a 1/8 illustration board using the charcoal pencil.
ILLUSTRATION BOARD
(SUSPECT FACE)
(Description )
Offense/Incident:
Name/AKA : Age:
Sex : Weight:
Height : Complexion:
Built :
Other information: