Nissan Ign Nostart Pathfinder 1996 2000

Ignition System NoStart Problem
19962000 3.3L
NISSAN
Pathfinder
ABRAHAM TORRES
easyautodiagnostics.com
19962000 3.3L V6 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition System Diagnostic Manual
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Vehicle Application................................................................................................................ 2
Ignition System Wiring Diagram............................................................................................ 3
Distributor Connectors Pin Outs............................................................................................ 5
Firing Order 3.3L V6 Engine.................................................................................................. 6
Ignition Timing Procedure..................................................................................................... 6
Basic Operating Theory......................................................................................................... 7
Symptoms Of A Bad Power Transistor, CMP Sensor And Ignition Coil ................................ 7
TEST 1: Testing For Spark At The Spark Plug Wires............................................................ 8
TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Distributor Cap...............................................................10
TEST 3: Testing For Spark Directly On The Ignition Coil Tower...........................................12
TEST 4: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting 12 Volts..................................................14
TEST 5: Testing The Ignition Coil's Activation Signal...........................................................16
TEST 6: Making Sure The Power Transistor Is Getting Ground..........................................18
TEST 7: Testing The Power Transistor's Activation Signal...................................................20
TEST 8: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting Power...................................................22
TEST 9: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Has Ground..........................................................24
TEST 10: Testing The CMP Sensor's 120° REF Signal.......................................................26
TEST 11: Testing The CMP Sensor's 1° POS Signal...........................................................29
VEHICLE APPLICATION
Nissan Vehicles:
3.3L V6 Pathfinder
• 1996
• 1997
• 1998
• 1999
• 2000
Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

easyautodiagnostics.com Page 2 of 31
IGNITION SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM
BLK = black WHT = white

BLK/WHT = black/white stripe WHT/GRN = white/green stripe
BLU = blue WHT/BLK = white/black stripe
BLU/BLK = blue/black stripe WHT/RED = white/red stripe


Distributor Connectors Pin Outs
© Abraham TorresArredondo
Male Spade Terminals

(Front View)
Ignition Distributor Part Number:

Autoline D7095
Cardone 8458600
Cardone 3158600 (Remanufactured)
Spectra Premium NS60
WAI Global DST58600

Firing Order 3.3L V6 Engine
3.3L v6
123456
Ignition Timing Procedure:

1. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine off.
3. Disconnect the TP sensor connector only (leave the idle switch connector connected).
4. Start the engine.
5. Rev engine up to 2,000 RPM 2 or 3 times and then let idle for one minute.
6. Check ignition timing using a timing light.
7. Ignition timing specification: 1317° BTDC.
8. Turn off engine and reconnect the TPS connector to the TPS assembly.
9. Erase any trouble code created by disconnecting the TPS.

Basic Operating Theory

Here is a little background information to help you diagnose the power transistor (ignition
control module), the ignition coil, or the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. In a nutshell, when
you turn the key and start cranking the engine:
1. Power in the form of 12 Volts flows into the ignition coil and the CMP sensor.
2. The engine starts to rotate and the CMP sensor starts to create and send its CMP
signal to the fuel injection computer.
• The CMP sensor is a Hall Effect type sensor and produces a digital (ON/OFF)
signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it
produces a digital square waveform.
3. Once the computer receives the CMP signal, it starts to create the power transistor
activation signal and sends it to the power transistor.
4. The power transistor, upon receiving its activation signal, starts to create the ignition
coil activation signal and sends it to the ignition coil.
5. The ignition coil, upon receiving its activation signal, starts to spark away.
• As you're probably already aware, the ignition coil's activation signal is just a term
that describes the ‘ON and OFF’ switching of the primary current's path
to Ground (the primary current refers to the 12 Volts supplied to the ignition coil).
If everything is working properly, the engine will start. Now, the important thing to know is
that the fuel injection computer controls the creation of spark from the getgo (crank up) and
at all engine speeds.
The really cool thing about this type of ignition system is that all of these signals can be
tested easily with some very simple tools.
Symptoms Of A Bad Power Transistor, CMP Sensor And Ignition Coil

Generally, when the power transistor or the ignition coil, or the CMP sensor fails, your 3.3L
V6 Nissan Pathfinder will 'crank but not start' due to a lack of spark at all 6 cylinders.
For this particular reason (and before you follow the test procedures in this manual), you
need to check for spark by connecting a spark tester to the spark plug wires and then crank
the engine.
This is a pretty easy test, but it must be done with a spark tester. Any other method of
checking for spark may give you a false result.

TEST 1: Testing For Spark At The Spark Plug Wires
HEI Spark Tester
Spark Plug
Wire
Battery Jump
Start Cable
The starting point of your Nissan Pathfinder's misfire or nostart diagnostic is to test all of the
spark plug wires for spark.
Now, you might already have a specific cylinder you want to test first or you just don't know
where to start. My recommendation is to test all of the spark plug wires for spark.
I want to stress the importance of using a spark tester to perform all of the spark tests. The
spark tester I use and recommend (for its accuracy and ease of use) is the HEI Spark Tester.
Here are a couple of other important suggestions:
• Do not use a regular spark plug in place of a spark tester. This testing technique will
give you a false/inaccurate test result.
• Do not pull the spark plug wire off of its spark plug while your helper cranks the
engine to test for spark. This testing technique could damage the ignition coil, if it isn't
fried already.
• If you don't have a spark tester, buy the HEI Spark Tester:
OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester.
TEST 1 continued in next page...

...TEST 1 continued.
OK, let's start:
Remove the spark plug wire from its spark plug.
Attach the HEI spark tester (or an equivalent spark tester) to the spark
plug wire (see illustration on page 8).
Ground the HEI spark tester to the battery negative () terminal with a
battery jump start cable (see illustration).
Have your helper crank the engine while you observe the spark tester.
The spark tester will do one of two things: (1) Spark or (2) Not Spark.
Repeat the test for all of the remaining spark plug wires.
Let's take a look at what your test result means:
CASE 1: You got spark on all of the spark plug wires. This is the correct and expected
test result.
This test result confirms that the power transistor (ignition control module), the ignition coil,
the camshaft position (CMP) sensor, the spark plug wires, the distributor rotor, and the
distributor cap are OK.
The cause of your misfire codes or nostart problem is not due to any of these ignition
system components.
CASE 2: You got NO spark from all of the spark plug wires. The next step is check that
the ignition coil is creating and feeding spark to the distributor cap.
Go to: TEST 3: Testing For Spark Directly On The Ignition Coil's Tower.
CASE 3: You got spark on some but not all of the spark plug wires. The next step is
check for spark directly on the distributor cap towers that feed spark to these wires that did
not fire off spark.
Go to: TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Distributor Cap.

TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Distributor Cap
Spark Tester
It's a common problem for one or two spark plug wires to go bad and cause a misfire.
It's also very common for one or two distributor cap towers to go bad and stop transmitting
spark to their spark plug wires (which will also cause a misfire problem).
In this test section we'll find out if the spark plug wires that did not fire off spark in TEST 1
are bad or not.
This test step will also help you find out if the distributor cap is bad or not.
IMPORTANT: This test is only for when one or several (but not all) of the spark plug wires
did not spark!
TEST 2 continued in next page...

OK, this is what you need to do:
Remove the spark plug wire that did not spark from its distributor cap
tower.
Place the spark tester directly on the tower. See the illustration on page 10.
Ground the spark tester to the battery negative () terminal with a battery
jumpstart cable.
The battery jumpstart cable will help you hold the spark tester on the tower.
Have your assistant crank the engine while you observe the spark tester.
You're gonna' get one of two results: (1) Spark or (2) No Spark.
Repeat this test with the others that did not fire off spark (if applicable).
Let's analyze your spark test result below:
CASE 1: You got spark. This is the correct test result. You can conclude that the spark plug
wire, that connects to this tower, is bad. Replace all of them as a set.
This will solve your misfire condition and misfire codes lighting up your check engine light
(CEL). Now, if the rest of the distributor components (distributor cap and rotor) are as old as
the spark plug wires you're replacing, I recommend replacing them too.
Here's why: As the spark plug wire gets older, its normal resistance to spark increases to
the point that it can't and doesn't channel spark to the spark plug. This will either cause a
misfire, or a lack of power, or a no start condition. The average lifespan, of aftermarket
spark plug wires, is 3 to 4 years.
CASE 2: You got NO spark. You can conclude that the distributor cap is bad if you have:
• Confirmed that all of the other spark plug wires are sparking (TEST 1).
• Confirmed that the spark plug wire of this distributor tower did not spark (TEST 1).
• Confirmed that this distributor tower is not sparking (this test section).
Here's why: As the distributor cap ages, the metal terminals that transmit the spark to the
spark plug wires corrode. This corrosion increases the resistance to spark and over time (as
more corrosion is created) this same corrosion stops the spark from passing thru' to the
spark plug wires.

TEST 3: Testing For Spark Directly On The Ignition Coil Tower
Spark Tester
Ignition Coil
Tower © Abraham TorresArredondo
If you have reached this point, then your test results confirm that none of the spark plug
wires are sparking.
In this test section, we will remove the distributor cap and test for spark directly on the
ignition coil's tower (the igniton coil is inside the distributor).
If you get spark, then you can conclude that the distributor cap and distributor rotor are bad
and are the cause of the no spark test results you got in TEST 1.
If you DO NOT get spark, then the next step is to see if the ignition coil is getting 10 to 12
Volts in TEST 4.
TEST 3 continued in the next page.

Here are the test steps:
Remove the distributor cap from the distributor.
Place the HEI spark tester directly in the ignition coil's tower (see
illustration on page 12).
Ground the HEI spark tester to the battery negative () terminal with a
battery jump start cable.
Have your helper crank the engine while you observe the spark tester.
You're gonna' get one of the 2 results: (1) Spark or (2) No Spark.
Let's interpret your test result below:
CASE 1: You got spark. This the correct and expected test result.
This test result confirms that the distributor cap and rotor are bad and need to be replaced if
you have:
• Confirmed that all 6 spark plug wires are not sparking in TEST 1.
• Confirmed that the ignition coil tower sparked (this test section).
If the spark plug wires and spark plugs are as old as the distributor cap and rotor, I suggest
you replace them too.
Here's why: As the distributor cap ages, the metal terminal that transmits the spark from the
ignition coil to the spark plug wires corrodes. This corrosion increases the resistance to
spark and over time (as more corrosion is created) this same corrosion stops the spark from
passing thru' to the spark plug wires.
CASE 2: You got NO spark. The next is test make sure that the ignition coil is receiving 12
Volts.
For this test go to: TEST 4: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting 12 Volts.

TEST 4: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting 12 Volts
Distributor Connectors
Front View Male Spade Terminals
Up this point, your diagnostic tests have confirmed that:
• All spark plug wires are not sparking (TEST 1).

• The ignition coil's tower is not sparking (TEST 3).
In this test section, we're gonna' check that the ignition coil is being supplied with power.
This is power is in the form of 10 to 12 Volts DC and comes directly from your Nissan
Pathfinder's ignition switch.
The wire that feeds this voltage to the ignition coil is the black with white stripe (BLK/
WHT) wire of its 2wire connector.
The BLK/WHT wire connects to the distributor male spade terminal identified with the
number 7 in the illustration above.
If the ignition coil is getting power, then the next step is to make sure that it's getting an
activation signal from the power transistor (ignition control module).

These are the test steps:
Place the multimeter in Volts DC mode.
Disconnect the distributor 2wire connector from its engine harness

connector.
With the red multimeter test lead, probe the female terminal of the
connector that connects to the BLK/WHT wire.
NOTE: The test is done on the engine wiring harness connector that has female
terminals.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the female terminal of the connector with
the multimeter test leads! I recommend you use a backprobe on the connector
or a wire piercing probe on the wire.
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery () negative terminal.
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
You should see 10 to 12 Volts on the multimeter.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: Your multimeter displayed 10 to 12 Volts. This is the correct test result and it lets
you know that the ignition coil is getting power.
The next step is to verify that the ignition coil is being fed with an activation signal (which
comes from the power transistor).
Go to: TEST 5: Testing The Ignition Coil's Activation Signal.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT display 10 to 12 Volts. Without this voltage the ignition
coil will not work.
The most common cause of this missing voltage is an opencircuit problem in the BLK/WHT
wire (between the connector and the ignition switch).

TEST 5: Testing The Ignition Coil's Activation Signal
In this test we're gonna' make sure that the ignition coil is receiving an activation signal.
This activation signal is the one that activates the ignition coil to start sparking away.
This activation signal comes from the power transistor (ignition control module).
To check for the presence of the ignition coil's activation signal, it's important to use an 12
Volt automotive LED light.
IMPORTANT: This test is performed with the distributor connected to both of its connectors.
NOTE: LED light part #:

Linrose 10mm Jumbo Panel Mount LED B4383H5 (green)
Linrose 10mm Jumbo Panel Mount LED B4383H1 (red)

Connect the black wire (lead) of the LED light to the blue (BLU) wire of the
distributor's 2wire connector.
NOTE: Since the connector must be connected to its engine wiring harness
connector, you'll need to backprobe the connector or use a wire piercing probe
on the wire to access the signal.
Connect the red wire (lead) of the LED light to the battery positive (+)
terminal. It is important that it be connected at the battery positive (+) terminal.
Have an assistant crank the engine.
The LED light should blink ON and OFF as the engine is being cranked.
NOTE: Don't worry about what the LED light does before or after cranking the
engine. The only result you're interested in is what the LED light does when
cranking the engine.
Let's analyze your test results:
CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF. This is the correct test result and it confirms
that the ignition coil is getting its activation signal.
You can conclude that the ignition coil is bad, and needs to be replaced, if you have:
• Confirmed that all 6 spark plug wires are not sparking (TEST 1).
• Confirmed that the ignition coil tower is not sparking (TEST 3).
• Confirmed that the ignition coil is getting power (TEST 4).
• Confirmed that the ignition coil is getting its activation signal (this test section).
With this test result you can also correctly conclude that the power transistor and camshaft
position (CMP) sensor are good. Replacing the ignition coil will solve your 'nospark nostart'
problem.
CASE 2: The LED light DID NOT flash ON and OFF. Recheck all of your connections and
retry the test again. If the LED light still does not flash, go to: TEST 6: Making Sure The
Power Transistor Is Getting Ground.

TEST 6: Making Sure The Power Transistor Is Getting Ground
The power transistor (ignition control module) has to have a good path to Ground to be able
to activate the ignition coil.
The wire that supplies Ground to the power transistor is the black (BLK) wire of the
The BLK wire connects to the male terminal labeled with the number 2 in the illustration
above.
To check for Ground, we're gonna' do a simple multimeter voltage test on the BLK wire.
NOTE: This Ground is a chassis Ground and is available at all times to the power transistor.

Disconnect the distributor from its 6wire connector.
With the black multimeter test lead, probe the female terminal of the
connector that connects to the BLK wire.
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery (+) positive terminal.
This Ground is a chassis Ground and is present at all times, so you don't need
to turn the key to the ON position.
you know that the power transistor is getting Ground.
The next step is to verify that the power transistor is receiving an activation signal (which
comes from the fuel injection computer).
Go to: TEST 7: Testing The Power Transistor's Activation Signal.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT display 10 to 12 Volts. This test result tells you that
Ground is not present in the BLK wire.
Your next step is to find out why the BLK wire is not providing Ground and repair the issue.

TEST 7: Testing The Power Transistor's Activation Signal
If you've reached this point, you have:
• Confirmed that the ignition coil is not getting its activation signal (TEST 5).
• Confirmed that the power transistor is receiving Ground (TEST 6).
In this test section we're gonna' make sure that the power transistor (ignition control module)
is getting an activation signal from your Nissan's fuel injection computer.
A multimeter that can read Hertz (Hz) frequency has to be used to check for the presence of
the power transistor's activation signal. An LED light will not work to read this activation
signal.
IMPORTANT: The distributor must remain connected to its electrical connectors for this test
to work. You'll need to use a back probe on the connector or a wire piercing probe on the
wire to test for this signal.

Place the multimeter in Hertz frequency mode.
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the purple with white stripe (WHT/
BLK) wire of the distributor's 6wire connector.
NOTE: The 6wire connector must remain connected to the distributor. You'll
need to use a back probe on the connector or a wire piercing probe on the WHT/
BLK wire to access the activation signal.
Have you helper crank the engine while you observer the multimeter.
You should see around 6 to 8 Hertz (Hz) on the multimeter as the engine
cranks.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated Hz frequency. This is the correct test
result and it confirms that the power transistor is receiving its activation signal.
This test result confirms that the power transistor is fried and needs to be replaced if you
have:
• Confirmed that the power transistor is not receiving its activation signal (TEST 7).
Power Transistor Part #: WAI GLOBAL ICM856
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register the indicated Hz frequency. Without an
activation signal, the power transistor will not activate the ignition coil.
The next step is to make sure the camshaft position sensor is getting power. Go to: TEST 8
Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting Power.

TEST 8: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting Power
Your Nissan Pathfinder's fuel injection computer uses the camshaft position (CMP) sensor's
signal to activate the power transistor.
There's a good chance that the camshaft position sensor might be bad if in TEST 7 you
confirmed that the power transistor is not receiving an activation signal from the fuel injection
computer.
To start off our CMP sensor diagnostic, we're gonna' make sure that it's getting power. This
power is in the form of 12 Volts DC.
The CMP sensor receives these 12 Volts on the black with white stripe (BLK/WHT) wire of
the distributor's 6wire connector.
The BLK/WHT wire connects to the terminal labeled with the number 5 in the illustration
above.
These 12 Volts are provided to the CMP sensor by your Nissan Pathfinder's ECC relay.
NOTE: The camshaft position (CMP) sensor is located inside the distributor.

With the red multimeter test lead, probe the female terminal of the
connector that connects to the BLK/WHT wire.
terminals.
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
You should see 10 to 12 Volts DC on the multimeter.
you know that the CMP sensor is getting power.
The next step is to make sure that the CMP sensor has Ground. Go to: TEST 9: Making
Sure The CMP Sensor Has Ground.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT display 10 to 12 Volts. This test result lets you know
that the CMP sensor is not getting power.
The most common cause of this missing voltage is an opencircuit problem in the BLK/WHT
wire (between the connector and the ECC relay).

TEST 9: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Has Ground
Besides power, the camshaft position (CMP) sensor also needs Ground to produce its CMP
signal.
The CMP sensor receives Ground on the black (BLK) wire of the distributor's 6wire
connector.
The BLK wire connects to the male spade terminal labeled with the number 6 of the
distributor's 6pin connector (see the illustration above).
To test for the presence of Ground in the BLK wire, we're gonna' do a simple multimeter
voltage test.
NOTE: This Ground is a chassis Ground and is available at all times to the CMP sensor.

With the black multimeter test lead, probe the female terminal of the
connector that connects to the BLK wire.
terminals.
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery (+) positive terminal.
This Ground is a chassis Ground and is present at all times, so you don't need
to turn the key to the ON position.
you know that the CMP sensor is getting Ground.
The next step is to see if the CMP sensor is creating a CMP signal. Go to: TEST 10: Testing
The CMP Sensor Signal.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT display 10 to 12 Volts. This test result lets you know
that the CMP sensor is not getting Ground.
Your next step is repair the BLK wire so that it's connected to Ground. This will probably
solve your Nissan Pathfinder's nospark nostart problem.

TEST 10: Testing The CMP Sensor's 120° REF Signal
As you're probably already aware, your Nissan Pathfinder's camshaft position sensor
produces two different signals. One signal is called the 1° POS signal and the other is the
120° REF signal.
Now that you've confirmed that the CMP sensor is getting Ground and 12 Volts, the next
step is to verify that it's producing a 120° REF signal.
To test for the 120° REF signal, we will connect an LED light to the blue (BLU) wire of the
The BLU wire connects to the distributor male spade terminal labeled with the number 3 in
the illustration above.
If the camshaft position sensor is producing the 120° REF signal, then the LED light will
flash ON and OFF.
If the camshaft position sensor is bad and not producing a 120° REF signal, the LED light
will not flash (stay OFF) the whole time you're turning the engine by hand.
IMPORTANT: You'll need to turn the engine manually to perform this test with an LED light.
You can not use the starter motor to crank the engine.


Locate and remove the fuel pump fuse. This is an important safety
precaution.
NOTE: The fuel pump fuse is located in the dash fuse box and is labeled as
fuse #17.
Connect the red wire (lead) of the LED light to the purple (BLU) wire of the
Connect the black wire (lead) of the LED light to the battery negative ()
terminal.
Turn the key to the ON position but don't crank the engine.
The LED light should be OFF. If the LED light is ON at this point, the CMP
sensor is bad. You should still continue with the rest of the test.
Turn the engine by hand using the appropriate tools. Don't use the starter
motor to turn the engine.
You can manually turn the engine by turning the crankshaft pulley with a socket
and ratchet wrench.
The LED light should blink ON and OFF as the engine is being turned by
hand.

CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF as you turned the crankshaft pulley. This is
the correct test result and it confirms that the camshaft position sensor is creating a 120°
REF signal.
The next step is to test for the presence of the 1° POS signal. For this test go to: TEST 11:
Testing The CMP Sensor's 1° POS Signal.
CASE 2: The LED light came ON as soon as you turned the key ON and without
turning the crankshaft pulley. This test result tells you that the camshaft position sensor is
bad.
Since the camshaft position sensor is not sold separately, you'll need to replace the
distributor.
CASE 3: The LED light DID NOT flash ON and OFF as you turned the crankshaft
pulley. This test result tells you that the camshaft position sensor is not producing the 120°
REF signal.
You can conclude that the camshaft position sensor is bad if you have:
• Confirmed that the CMP sensor is getting power and Ground (TEST 8, TEST 9).
• Confirmed that the CMP sensor is not producing a 120° REF signal (TEST 10).
The camshaft position sensor is not sold separately. You'll need to replace the distributor.

TEST 11: Testing The CMP Sensor's 1° POS Signal
For our last test we're gonna' make sure that the camshaft position sensor is producing a 1°
POS signal. And we'll use the LED light to confirm its presence.
The wire that we're gonna' test is the black with white stripe (BLK/WHT) wire of the
distributor's 6wire connector. It connects to the distributor male spade terminal labeled with
the number 4 in the illustration above.
If the camshaft position sensor is producing the 1° POS signal, then the LED light will flash
ON and OFF and it'll flash ON and OFF very rapidly.
When you tested the 120° REF signal with the LED light, you were able to see distinct ON/
OFF pulses of light from the LED light. The 1° POS signal pulses so fast that you won't see
distinct on/off flashes of the LED light.
What you'll see is the LED light flashing so rapidly that it'll seem as if the LED light is just
dimming. This is normal.
If the camshaft position sensor is bad and not producing a 1° POS signal, the LED light will
not flash (stay OFF) the whole time you're turning the engine by hand.
IMPORTANT: You'll need to turn the engine manually to perform this test with an LED light.
You can not use the starter motor to crank the engine.

Locate and remove the fuel pump fuse. This is an important safety
precaution.
NOTE: The fuel pump fuse is located in the dash fuse box and is labeled as
fuse #17.
Connect the red wire (lead) of the LED light to the black with white (BLK/
WHT) wire of the distributor's 6wire connector.
Connect the black wire (lead) of the LED light to the battery negative ()
terminal.
Turn the key to the ON position but don't crank the engine.
The LED light should be OFF. If the LED light is ON at this point, the CMP
sensor is bad. Continue with the rest of the test steps.
Turn the engine by hand using the appropriate tools. Don't use the starter
motor to turn the engine.
You can manually turn the engine by turning the crankshaft pulley with a socket
and ratchet wrench.
The LED light should blink ON and OFF as the engine is being turned by
hand.
NOTE: The slower you turn the crankshaft pulley, the better you'll be able to see
the LED light flashing ON and OFF.

CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF as you turned the crankshaft pulley. This is
the correct test result and it confirms that the camshaft position sensor is creating a 1° POS
signal.
If the CMP sensor is creating both its signals, then you can conclude that the CMP sensor is
good and not behind the missing power transistor activation signal (TEST 7).
There's a good chance that an opencircuit problem exists in the wiring between the
distributor's 6wire connector and the fuel injection computer's connector.
CASE 2: The LED light came ON as soon as you turned the key ON and without
turning the crankshaft pulley. This test result tells you that the camshaft position sensor is
bad.
Since the camshaft position sensor is not sold separately, you'll need to replace the
distributor.
CASE 3: The LED light DID NOT flash ON and OFF as you turned the crankshaft
pulley. This test result tells you that the camshaft position sensor is not producing the 1°
POS signal.
You can conclude that the camshaft position sensor is bad if you have:
• Confirmed that the CMP sensor is getting power and Ground (TEST 8, TEST 9).
• Confirmed that the CMP sensor is producing a 120° REF signal (TEST 10).
• Confirmed that the CMP sensor is not producing a 1° POS signal (TEST 11).
The camshaft position sensor is not sold separately. You'll need to replace the distributor.


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Ignition System No­Start Problem

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

IGNITION SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM

BLK = black WHT = white

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

Distributor Connectors Pin Outs

Male Spade Terminals

Ignition Distributor Part Number:

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

Firing Order 3.3L V6 Engine

Ignition Timing Procedure:

2. Turn the engine off.

4. Start the engine.

6. Check ignition timing using a timing light.

7. Ignition timing specification: 13­17° BTDC.

9. Erase any trouble code created by disconnecting the TPS.

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

Basic Operating Theory

Symptoms Of A Bad Power Transistor, CMP Sensor And Ignition Coil

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

TEST 1: Testing For Spark At The Spark Plug Wires

HEI Spark Tester

Here are a couple of other important suggestions:

­ OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester.

TEST 1 continued in next page...

Copyright © 2021 Abraham Torres­Arredondo

OK, let's start:

Remove the spark plug wire from its spark plug.

Let's take a look at what your test result means:

Go to: TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Distributor Cap.

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TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Distributor Cap

TEST 2 continued in next page...

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OK, this is what you need to do:

Let's analyze your spark test result below:

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TEST 3: Testing For Spark Directly On The Ignition Coil Tower

TEST 3 continued in the next page.

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Here are the test steps:

Remove the distributor cap from the distributor.

Let's interpret your test result below:

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TEST 4: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting 12 Volts

Up this point, your diagnostic tests have confirmed that:

• All spark plug wires are not sparking (TEST 1).

TEST 4 continued in the next page.

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These are the test steps:

Place the multimeter in Volts DC mode.

Disconnect the distributor 2­wire connector from its engine harness

Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.

You should see 10 to 12 Volts on the multimeter.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

Go to: TEST 5: Testing The Ignition Coil's Activation Signal.

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Ignition System NoStart Problem

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7. Ignition timing specification: 1317° BTDC.

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OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester.

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Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

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Disconnect the distributor 2wire connector from its engine harness

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Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

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Disconnect the distributor from its 6wire connector.

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Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Disconnect the distributor from its 6wire connector.

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Disconnect the distributor from its 6wire connector.

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo

Copyright © 2021 Abraham TorresArredondo