Conde Nast Traveler USA September 2017

TRUTH IN TRAVEL SEPTEMBER 2017
ANNIVERSARY
ISSUE
09.17
F E AT U R E S
108
At Home in Rome
Sophy Roberts lives like a princess
for a day in a 17th-century palazzo.
84
Oaxaca
Pilar Guzmán reports on the new
style-and-design scene in
Mexico’s longtime food capital.
96
Above and Crillon
The Paris grande dame reopens
after four years with a fresh look—
Christopher Bagley gets a peek.
102
Marrakech Moderne
Studio KO brings minimalism
to Morocco with the new
YSL Museum. By Nancy Hass
The Cover
Cocktail hour at Criollo
in Oaxaca. Photograph by
Gentl and Hyers.
The enfilade at the Palazzo

Odescalchi in Rome.
10 Condé Nast Traveler photograph by ROBERTA VALER IO

09.17
W H E R E + W E A R (23) WO R D O F M O U T H (41)
24 42 52
What I Pack Checking In Hometown

Makeup artist Ian Schrager’s Public Daniele Riva on where
Gucci Westman on lures the locals; top to pull up your boat in
keeping the architects get into rent- his native Como.
midsummer party als; a Nagano hotel
going all night is an ode to Danish 55
long in Varberg, designer Finn Juhl. We’re Turning 30
Sweden. As Condé Nast Traveler
48
marks three decades
26 Hotel Breakfast in print, we look back
The Upgrade At Stockholm’s Ett at how far we’ve trav-
The gold bracelets Hem, guests wake up eled, and where we’re
you just might never to cloudberry jam. heading next.
take off.
50 50
30 Pilgrimage
Well Traveled How the die-hard
Stylist Mobolaji beauty obsessed like
Dawodu gets his signa- Christina Han do
ture dashikis a spa day in Seoul.
handmade in Lagos.
32
On Location
Opera season in Vienna
calls for a tailored
coat and a chic scarf.
Clockwise from top: Courtesy of Sulwhasoo; Matt Hranek; Adrian Gaut

16
Editor’s Letter
18
Editor’s Itinerary
119
Intel
122
Room with a View

42 52
12 Condé Nast Traveler

09.17
CONTRIBUTORS
Christopher Bagley Christa Guerra Jessica Chrastil

The W contributor CNT’s Associate Art The Pocoapoco
toured Paris’s redone Director designed founder gave a local’s
Hôtel de Crillon, p. 96 our 30th Anniversary insight into
package, p. 55 Oaxaca, p. 84
What is your favorite What place have What would the plane
city for design? My you visited that has of your dreams
adopted hometown stayed with you? come with? Windows
of Los Angeles. Just Alexandria—where that roll down before
when I think I know palaces and mosques takeoff and after land-
the city, I stumble line an ancient ing for some real air.
upon a 1960s glass bay, and you can char-
chapel 10 minutes ter fishing boats to What kind of things Follow Us
from my house. explore the surround- do you look to pick up @cntraveler
ing coast. while traveling? I
Anywhere that you’re leave everywhere with
From left: Courtesy of Christopher Bagley; courtesy of Christa Guerra; Andrea Gentl; Matt Hranek
embarrassed to say you What dish would stacks of beautiful
Get Pennywise Abroad After-Party
haven’t visited? China. you travel for? books and magazines
On cntraveler.com Follow us on Instagram
It’s inexcusable, espe- Anything from my in languages I’ll never
this month, we decode for more highlights
cially as my goddaugh- mother’s favorite understand.
all things money, as we celebrate 30 years
ter is half-Chinese. I restaurant, Burj Al
including which coun- in print.
hope to take her when Hamam in What are your
tries accept USD,
she’s older. Broumana, Lebanon. future travel goals?
I imagine I’m just
when it’s better to use Aaa nd...Action!
local currency, and For even more
Do you have your next Favorite souvenir? On waiting until my old
getting your finances reasons to hit the
destination in mind? a recent trip to Port- age to spend years
together before takeoff. road, tune in to
Naples. Last summer I au-Prince, I picked up alone on the Spanish
video.cntraveler.com.
passed through and a marble sculpture coast consuming
fell for it completely— that was conceived by nothing but tiny fish
and not only because of the designer Paula and bottles of sherry.
crocchette di patate. Coles and carved by
local artisans.
Talk to Us Subscribe Leave It to the

Where are you going this Visit cntraveler.com/ Ombudsman
year? Email your photos subscribe, email Need help solving a
and tips to letters@ subscriptions@conde travel problem?
condenasttraveler.com. nasttraveler.com, Email ombudsman@
or call 800-777-0700. cntraveler.com.

EDITOR’S LETTER 09.17
Our first cover, in September 1987,

depicted Kip Forbes, snapped by writer
Christopher Buckley, on an Amazon
journey hosted by Kip’s father, Malcolm.
is the way in which walking into a medieval hill-

top town square in Liguria at the golden hour, or
diving through a pristine wave in Sumba, reminds
us how lucky we feel to be alive, and changes our
perception of time.
In the age of TMI, and the deafening chorus of
self-anointed expertise across digital and social
media, we’ve almost come full circle in our desire
to narrow the universe to those recommendations
we trust most. When Sir Harold Evans launched
Condé Nast Traveler 30 years ago, he did just
that, creating a publication that drew a hard line
between travelers who crave genuine connection
to place and mere tourists ticking off a bucket list.
Thirty years later, we still believe that the very
best kind of travel comes when we are armed with
the right information, itineraries, on the ground
intel—and, yes, technology to move through the
world with a confidence that allows for serendip-
ity. I know I should be less concerned with timing
the afternoon light so it reflects off the church
steeple just so for my Instagram. But I am also
keenly aware that what took me off the highway
Age of Experience in pursuit of that church in the first place was a

description I read by my favorite food writer (and
confirmed by a local bartender), its correspond-
ing Insta geotag, and Google Maps. It takes both
I recently reconnected with my college friend Cindy, whom I’d scarcely seen since the vulnerability and confidence to follow the rec-
summer after graduation when we traveled for a month throughout Italy and France. ommendation of a no-frills osteria meal over an
She reminded me of the time we raced back to the youth hostel in Verona after an open- acclaimed—if overrated—Michelin-starred one.
air concert in the amphitheater to make curfew. I can still hear the clapping of flip-flops But it is only in stepping outside of our comfort
on cobblestones behind us and the hopeful lilt of Australian accents calling for us to zone, permitting ourselves to move toward some-
hold the doors open. We made plans to meet those same Aussies in Avignon later that thing we can’t quite picture, that we allow for
month, the logical coda to an easy kinship born of averted misadventure. That night, we the slow unfolding of memories in the making—
all slipped into our travel sheets, money belts safely stowed, and slept the deep hum- and, yes, for that horizon line to inch back just a
mingbird sleep that only relief brings. little further.
Nostalgia sparked a conversation about our shared lifelong wanderlust, the places
we have yet to visit, and the bittersweet sense of a foreshortening future at middle age.
“My working theory is that we have a better (or worse?) sense of time now, because we
Photograph by Caleb Bennett
know the next thing’s coming and the next,” she wrote to me in an email. “We always
see the horizon line, so we don’t have that slow unfolding we once had as kids.” Add to
that our compulsive need to document and share every sunset and avocado toast, and
there are few occasions when we actually allow a moment to play out.
Except, of course, when we travel. While we may have moved from American Express Pilar Guzmán, Editor in Chief
Travelers Cheques and postcards to Apple Pay and Facebook Live, what doesn’t change @pilar_guzman

E D IT O R ’ S IT I N E R A RY 09.17
The Chicago Theatre,

in the Loop.
Plan Now
The Other
Down Under
I’m heading to my native New Zealand and
spending my entire trip in Auckland. I
know, it’s far to fly for a city (and Auckland
of all cities…). But lately it’s become a
hit-all-the-right-notes hybrid of its more
popular Aussie neighbors—homegrown
food and fashion to rival Melbourne’s, the
outdoor lifestyle of Sydney—while
remaining off the radar. Britomart Central
now has serious street cred, with bou-
tiques showcasing N.Z.’s smart-edgy style—
concept store World (for Good & Co
scarves) and Kate Sylvester (for tailored
shirts) are my favorites. After shopping,
I’ll likely pop into The Chamberlain for Moa
lagers, then Ostro for celeb chef Josh
Emett’s steamed snapper (though friends
say the hottest table is Depot, in nearby
Ponsonby, which does Bluff oysters and
rosé at happy hour). One thing we’ve
got on Oz? An island a short boat ride from
Go Now downtown blanketed in world-class
vineyards. I’ll avoid the weekend crush on
Chicago Culture Fix Waiheke by spending Wednesday sipping

chards at the Oyster Inn and Mudbrick
Vineyard & Restaurant before swimming
I’m the kind of Chicagophile who heads there even when temps dip to six degrees in at Oneroa Beach. And if I’m craving
January (which is when I’ll warm up with an old fashioned at Big Star). But I’m angling to culture—Auckland is no Sydney when it
visit this month, not so much for the glorious weather as for everything else going on. comes to art—I’ll drive an hour to see
EXPO Chicago, a contemporary art fair shaping up to rival Frieze, will debut on September the Anish Kapoors and Richard Serras at
13 with 135 galleries represented, including Gagosian and Perrotin. Later that week, the Gibbs Farm sculpture park, set against
Chicago Architecture Biennial opens, with experimental projects installed across the city— green hills dotted with sheep, which are a
think Burning Man for design geeks. Between visits to the DePaul Art Museum and the reminder of exactly where in the world
Hyde Park Art Center, and dinner at Roister, Grant Achatz’s rowdy but refined open-kitchen you are. E R I N F L O R I O
restaurant, I’ll try to make cocktails at Billy Sunday in Logan Square. Even if I miss the Cubs,
I’ll still hit the North Side, where a billion-dollar redevelopment is hatching all sorts of cool
Photograph by Matt B. Weitz
places to eat and drink (Lucky Dorr already has good buzz). The only question is where
to stay. The Ace Hotel Chicago, filled with Arne Jacobson–inspired decor, is slated to open
September 1 in the heart of the restaurant-filled Fulton Market District. The new Viceroy
Chicago, in a refurbished Gilded Age tower on the Gold Coast with Lake Michigan views, is
also opening this month—and would put me right around the corner from Sparrow, one
of my favorite late-night bars in a city that’s hotter than ever. P A U L B R A D Y

PILAR GUZMÁN
EDITOR IN CHIEF
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Yolanda Edwards

DIGITAL GENERAL MANAGER Eric Gillin DIGITAL DIRECTOR Brad Rickman
DESIGN DIRECTOR Caleb Bennett MANAGING EDITOR Paulie Dibner
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FASHION DIRECTOR Sarah Meikle
NEWS AND FEATURES DESIGN DIGITAL CONTRIBUTORS

SENIOR LIFESTYLE EDITOR Rebecca Misner ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Christa Guerra DEPUTY DIGITAL DIRECTOR Laura D. Redman David Amsden, Amanda Brooks, Frank
ARTICLES EDITOR Paul Brady DESIGNER Alyssa Chavez SENIOR EDITOR Katherine LaGrave Castronovo, David Coggins, Ondine Cohane,
SENIOR EDITOR Erin Florio ASSOCIATE EDITORS Lale Arikoglu, Victoire de Taillac-Touhami, Frank
EDITOR, SERVICE AND SURVEYS David Jefferys PHOTOGRAPHY Sebastian Modak Falcinelli, Adrian Gaut, Andrea Gentl,
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Andrea Whittle SENIOR PHOTO RESEARCH EDITOR PHOTO EDITOR Corrie Vierregger Eugenia Gonzalez, Maca Huneeus, Inez and
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Alexandra Mahon Kate Cunningham ASSISTANT EDITOR Meredith Carey Vinoodh, Julia Leach, Peter Jon Lindberg,
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Louis Cheslaw PHOTO EDITOR Linda Denahan ASSISTANT EDITOR, VENUES Betsy Blumenthal Gianluca Longo, Alexander Maksik, Dewey
SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT Sophy Roberts ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Valeria Suasnavas SENIOR MANAGER, ANALYTICS Sara Bogush Nicks, Peter Oumanski, Paola & Murray,
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20 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

THE
THINGS WE CAN’T
L E AV E
WITHOUT
The Masters
Louis Vuitton nails the megacollaboration once again—this time by enlisting
Bag, louisvuitton.com
Jeff Koons to marry the brand’s most iconic silhouettes with the world’s most recognizable
paintings by Van Gogh, Titian, Rubens, Fragonard, and Da Vinci. Koons’s take on
the Mona Lisa, shown here on the classic Keepall 50 ($4,000), was shot on location in
the Getty Suite at Italy’s 17th-century villa turned hotel La Posta Vecchia.
photograph by MATT HR ANEK Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 23

W H AT I PA C K
Portrait by Barbara Anastacio. Still lifes by Josephine Schiele; styled by John Olson for Halley Resources. Necklace, cartier.com; bag, Chanel boutiques nationwide
Cartier Santos de Cartier necklace ........... $7,450
Chanel bag ...................................................... $5,500
Sandals and ring .......................... Westman’s own
best seafood restaurant in Sweden,” she says.

“Start with the seafood soup, but, really, anything
you order will be spectacular.”
On her Varberg hit list: fika and cinnamon
buns from the café at the seaside Kust Hotell and
a visit to the Kallbadhuset bathhouse for a
GUCCI WESTMAN If there’s one time of year that makes New York–
based makeup artist Gucci Westman especially
“steam and a dip through a square hole in the
wooden floor into the freezing cold ocean,”
A SWEDISH nostalgic for Sweden, it’s the summer. Westman she says. She also recommends chartering a boat
HOMECOMING spent 15 years in Varberg, an hour south of for the hour-long trip to the islands of Styrsö,
UNDER THE Gothenburg (her family moved to Sweden from

California when she was 10 years old), and
Donsö, and Öckerö, where the landscape is “raw
and vast—it gives you a sense of calm.” It can be
MIDNIGHT SUN now makes a nearly annual pilgrimage with cold and rainy, even in June, so she’ll pack a few
her husband and three children to partake pairs of cropped Rag & Bone jeans, of course
in the midsummer festivities in Gothenburg’s (her husband founded the line), and a couple of
Slottsskogen park. “Everyone dances around cozy Céline cashmere sweaters. In lieu of a
the maypole and raises shot glasses of nubbe fragrance, she slips Santa Maria Novella pome-
(spiced aquavit), and all the girls wear flower granate wax tablets in her Rimowa roller to
crowns,” Westman says. “The sun doesn’t set scent her clothes. “I’ll also tuck tissue paper into
until after 10 P.M., so we party late, late, late.” They my shirts to prevent wrinkles,” she adds.
stay with her brother’s family in Gothenburg, “I learned that trick from Grace Coddington.”
and always book dinner at Sjömagasinet—“the K A R I M O LVA R

THE UPGR ADE
LINKED IN
THIS SEASON’S
DRESS-UP,
DRESS-DOWN,
NEVER-TAKE-
OFF GOLD
From left: Cartier boutiques nationwide; tiffany.com; johnhardy.com; davidyurman.com; gucci.com

BRACELETS
from left:
Cartier Maillon Infini de
Cartier .................. $15,000
Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti
Aegean ................... $9,100
John Hardy
Bamboo ................. $4,950
David Yurman
Continuance ........ $4,500
Gucci Horsebit ..... $7,900
26 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photograph by MATT HR ANEK

“DASHIKIS ARE MY GO-TO
W E L L T R AV E L E D
IN THE SUMMER, BUT IN THE

WINTER I WEAR BLACK
TURTLENECKS RELIGIOUSLY.”
“I’m a geography nerd,” says New York–

based Mobolaji Dawodu, who, as a
child, would ask his mother to quiz him
on world capitals. Now Dawodu feeds
his wanderlust by digging for vintage
clothes in Kampala’s Owino Market or
having dashikis custom sewn in Lagos.
“I shop in Asia and Africa more than in
Europe, because there’s nothing I can
get there that I can’t find in the States.”
Here, he shares his secret sources.
Tell us about your scarf. It’s a kuta from

the Shiro Meda market in Addis Ababa—
I have a serious thing for scarves. When
I’m flying, I’ll wrap a scarf around my
head and neck, sort of like an old lady
would. The hat is my father’s, from the
Igbo tribe in Nigeria.
What’s the most underrated shopping

city? Bangkok. This coat was made
there, by the cool women at Siam
Emporium Tailors. I see them every
time I visit the city. I’ll also make a
point to hit Chatuchak Weekend Market
for vintage clothes.
GQ STYLE FASHION What other markets do you love?

In Cairo, the Khan el-Khalili bazaar is a
DIRECTOR must. In Lagos, I love Balogun Market
MOBOLAJI DAWODU for fabrics. If you go to Lagos, you have
to stay at Bogobiri House—it’s a bou-
tique hotel that’s the heartbeat of young,
hip, cosmopolitan folks there. And
check out Alara, the amazing concept
store designed by David Adjaye.
We hear you have quite a magnet

collection. I’ve been collecting for
Grooming by Regina Harris
15 years! My refrigerator is bananas.

AS TOLD TO ANDREA WHITTLE
30 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photograph by DEWEY NICKS

O N L O C AT I O N
VIENNA
BOTH THE
CLASSIC
AND MODERN
SIDES
Old-world sophistication. That

about sums up Vienna, with its
Baroque Schönbrunn Palace and
grand Ringstrasse Boulevard.
But let’s not forget that some of the
greatest rebels against conservatism—
Freud, Schiele, Kokoschka—had
roots here, which means a trip to this
city is a study in both traditionalist
and modernist pasts. Of course,
the opera is a must—this month, the
Wiener Staatsoper opens with
Il Trovatore—as is a slice of the name-
sake torte at the Hotel Sacher. But
make time for dinner at the buzzy
nouveau Motto am Fluss on the
Vienna: Andreas Jakwerth. Still lifes by Josephine Schiele; styled by John Olson for Halley Resources. Pendant, Van Cleef & Arpels
banks of the Danube canal. It’s where
you’ll find the next gen of artists
boutiques nationwide; scarf, hermes.com; coat, 800-845-6790; bag and shoes, tods.com; sunglasses, louisvuitton.com
and thinkers challenging the status
quo over Wiener schnitzel and chilled
glasses of grüner. R E B E C C A M I S N E R
Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton d’Or

pendant ................................................ $29,700
Hermès Astrologie Pois scarf ............. $325
Bottega Veneta coat ........................... $5,400
Tod’s Sella bag and Gommino
driving shoes ..................... $2,165 and $645
Louis Vuitton LV Drive sunglasses ..... $500

09.17
T H E T H I N G S W E C A N ’ T S T O P TA L K I N G A B O U T
Crillon
Redux
The legendary Hôtel de Crillon,
a Rosewood Hotel, has finally
reopened—this time with a sunlit
indoor pool—after a four-
year restoration. For more on the
Paris property, see page 96.
photograph by MATT HR ANEK Condé Nast Traveler 41

CHECKING IN
From left: A standard double

room at Public; a picnic table in
the hotel’s garden.
It’s All in the Name

Georges deli counter doing fresh radish salads and smoked-
ham sandwiches, a coffee nook with dark wood benches,
and a sleek marble-topped bar that leads to Jean-Georges’s
With his newest New York project, more formal Public Kitchen. What you won’t see are the
the ethos of hotelier Ian Schrager is more hallmarks of a typical hotel lobby, including a concierge or
pronounced than ever. bellhops. Ride the space’s most engaging feature, a glowing
pair of escalators encased in reflective steel (yes, the very
same ones that have clogged your Instagram feed this sum-
mer), to an open area that feels like an intentional rebuke
to the private-member-club phenomenon of late: sprawling
white sofas, meeting rooms, clusters of stylish work spaces
If Ian Schrager builds it, locals will come. Or so an industry with a full-service bar and what Schrager calls the city’s fast-
saying could go. So when the man known for flipping the est Wi-Fi. It’s open to anyone, drink order not required.
hierarchy—prioritizing common spaces for locals over rooms While this all feels like a logical progression of Schrager’s
for guests—opens a hotel on New York’s Lower East Side approach to hospitality, there are some surprises. Check-in
at the geographic nexus of all things cool and names it Public, desks have been replaced by roaming attendants with
you have an idea of what to expect. With Public, though, iPads, who’ll program your phone to act as your room key.
Schrager drives the point home harder than before, creating Room service has been swapped for pickup—order from
a microworld that so captures how New Yorkers are eating, your TV, then hop downstairs to collect. These cuts mean
drinking, and working right now that you’d be forgiven for that if you want to book one of the 370 rooms, designed
not realizing it’s a hotel at all. You’ll walk past a surprisingly like snug, inviting blond-wood cocoons, the price point, like
tranquil garden, considering it’s just off a major downtown the hotel itself, is appropriately accessible to (almost) all.
intersection, and into a marketplace that includes a Jean- ERIN FLORIO
42 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photographs by ADR IAN GAUT

CHECKING IN
Left: Chez Georges, in

Santa Teresa. Below:
A Chieftains chair in the
House of Finn Juhl.
Modernist Cool in Japan
When looking to buy a cabin in the Nagano

mountain town of Hakuba in 2015, Hans Henrik
Sørensen and Ivan Hansen came across a run-
down 40-year-old ski lodge and switched gears.
The pair, cofounders of Danish furniture
manufacturer Onecollection, bought it, then
spent a year transforming it into the aptly
named House of Finn Juhl hotel, creating a per-
fectly minimal backdrop that showcases their
museum-quality collection of the mid-century
designer’s famously sculptural chairs, sofas,
and tables. The aesthetic verges on the austere,
but it works in a setting where nature is the
star. Fluffy eiderdown duvets and crisp Georg
Jensen damask linens offer the right dose
of European pampering. And even without
Playing (High-Design) House tatami mats, you can feel the Japanese influ-
ence here as you do across the Danish
master’s entire body of work. J O H N W O G A N
You may be a latent minimalist who has always erred toward the
traditional when it comes to your own home. Or vice versa. Now, a crop
of private homes for rent designed and furnished by notable architects
From left: Courtesy of Design Hotels; courtesy of House of Finn Juhl

means you can satisfy your architectural alter ego on a short-term basis.
Up in Rio’s leafy hilltop Santa Teresa, the brutalist Chez Georges (above)
was designed by renowned Brazilian architect Wladimir Alves de Souza
and filled with finds from his travels, such as pendant lighting and
19th-century French cane club chairs, as well as more recent additions
like a limited-edition Marc Jacobs surfboard. Tucked into the Isle of
Skye’s wind-whipped hillsides is the two-bedroom Hen House from local
firm Rural Design Architects, which uses native larch and heaps of
tartans to cozy up the split-level Scandinavian-inspired cottage whose
floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto sweeping views of the moody
sea loch. And as of April, you can hang out by the outdoor fire pit at Palm
Springs’ mid-century modern Ranch House, which is full of Eames and
Panton chairs and on the grounds of the Lautner Compound, designed in
part by the Frank Lloyd Wright protégé John Lautner. J E N M U R P H Y

HOT E L B R E A K FA S T
Ett Hem
Stockholm
Much has been written about Ilse Crawford’s
masterful layering of hushed earth tones
and 18th- to 21st-century Scandinavian design in
this 12-room hotel. Breakfast, an equally
painterly tableau of kavring rye bread, raspberry
and cloudberry jams, almond granola, smoked
ham, and organic eggs served on mismatched yet
coordinated ceramic plates, delivers on the
property’s unspoken principle: It’s like your
home, only way better.
48 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photograph by LENNART WEIBULL

“When it comes to beauty, what Americans consider luxury,
Koreans consider maintenance,” says Los Angeles–based
Christina Han, former editorial director of the high-end beauty
site Violet Grey and founder of the consulting firm Type
Navy. “In Seoul, facials are part of the daily routine.” For years,
kimchi and kalbi have lured us en masse to South Korea’s
capital, but a growing number of sheet-mask fanatics and influ-
encers are flying the 7,000 miles for snail-mucin serums and
wrinkle-banishing Fraxel laser treatments. (Think of it as a
farther-flung version of Costa Rica’s wellness tourism, but
with better BBQ.) Some quick history: Back in the eighties, a
few French beauty brands outsourced production to Korea;
then, in the aughts, Koreans began to use the existing labs to
manufacture their own higher-quality, lower-priced prod-
ucts. K-beauty blogs like Soko Glam started demystifying
multistep skin-care regimes for Americans, helping to drive the
$3.97 billion in cosmetics exports last year, and social media
did the rest. Recently, we’ve watched beauty junkies like
Han, the Hollywood makeup guru Lisa Eldridge, and Drew
Barrymore (there to research her line, Flower Beauty) work
through Seoul’s beauty emporiums on Instagram. Han,
whose parents were born in Seoul, says you can tackle a lot
in three days. “All the best spas are focused in three hip neigh-
borhoods: Sinsa-dong, Cheongdam-dong, and Hannam-
dong.” Dedicate a day to each, because in between facials—
which are so gentle and moisturizing, Han swears you can
safely do two a day—you’ll still want to sit down to pork
belly at Gamgyuk Shidae (worth the flight alone) and fit in
some non-beauty shopping too. E R I N F L O R I O
A Facial
Worth the
Flight
Sure, you can buy
Korean beauty products
online. But then you’d
miss out on Seoul’s stellar
spa scene.

PI L G R I M AG E
SI NSA-D ONG C H EONGDA M-D ONG
3CE Cinema Chaum

“This is the two-level flagship of “It’s like the Mayo Clinic of skin care.
Korea’s most popular beauty brand, You’ll see politicians and soap stars
and I swear by the peachy pink getting blood work done to help
highlighter called Back to Baby Glow determine a beauty regime, but I love
Beam. It’s magic on cheeks for those it for its intense two-hour-long
of us who don’t like to wear a lot facials, which leave my skin feeling
of makeup but want that dewiness.” like it did when I was 12 years old.
Book an appointment in advance on
Village 11 Factory the website; it’s in English and easy
“This place is packed with all kinds of to navigate. There’s also an outpost of
Korean-brand sheet masks—they Seoul’s high-fashion concept store
CHRISTINA HAN’S even sell them in vending machines. Boon the Shop on the ground floor.”
SEOUL HIT LIST Go to the foot spa on the second
level at the end of the day and ask for Jung Saem Mool
a soak and scrub—it’s like a pedicure “Think of her as the Bobbi Brown
but without the polish.” of Korea. Be sure to pick up the
Essential Star-Cealer foundation
Sulwhasoo compact; some lip stains, which
Courtesy of KMD & DMP Architects; Pedro Pegenaute; Diane Sooyeon Kang
“You can spend a whole day here. are all the rage in Seoul right now;
There’s a spa on the fourth floor for and the multi-use Essential
walk-in facials; another level dedi- Tinted Paste, which I use in peach.”
cated to antiaging treatments; and a
ton of products you can’t find in H A N NA M-D ONG
the States, like peach-blossom per- Anthracite

fume oil and camellia hair oil. “Coffee is big here, and this is where
My advice: Head straight to the spa; cool locals and Korean-American
that way if you have to wait for an expats hang out. Have a latte on the
Clockwise from aesthetician, you can kill time shop- outdoor patio.”
left: The pool at Chaum; ping. They’ll load you up with free
inside Sulwhasoo;
samples too.” Beaker
Dandelion noodles from
Kwonsooksoo. “This shop is like the Barneys Co-
Kwonsooksoo Op of Seoul. Come here for top
“At this Michelin-starred contem- Korean designers like the namesake
porary Korean BBQ restaurant, label and for handbags by Gu-De.
I had pasta that was dressed with
perilla-leaf oil and topped with Cosmic Mansion
sashimi. The pairing sounded so odd “My husband loves the cedar
on the menu, but it was life-chang- notes in the Another Morning fabric
Portrait by Denise Nestor. Map by Peter Oumanski. Clockwise from top: Photographs
ing. For something more traditional, sprays from this home-fragrance

do the pot rice that comes with spot. Plus they carry fragrant canvas
six beautifully arranged side dishes, sachets that work wonders at
called bansang.” keeping your clothes smelling fresh.
I always pick up some in jasmine.”
Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 51

HOM ET OW N
A view of Villa del

Balbianello from a classic
Riva Ariston.
WHERE TO PULL UP
From the Water stuffy. I’ll have a fresh

“Villa La Cassinella, crudo lunch and then
Richard Branson’s wander the grounds.”
spectacular property
in Lenno, is best seen Café Culture
by boat. So is the little “The best espresso
island of Comacina— and croissants, not just
it has just one restau- in Italy but in the world,
rant, the Locanda are from Pasticceria
dell’Isola Comacina, Poletti in Cernobbio.”
which serves beautiful The Bring Back
lake trout. If you do a “For leather belts
tour, use Como Classic and bags, I like L’Arte di
Boats and request Modellare Il Cuoio in
Duilio—no one knows Como. Laura Epifani in
the lake better!” Cernobbio is the place
Rooms with Views for shoes and boots.”
“The very modern Il Aperitivo Hour
Sereno hotel in Torno “Da Luciano in Laglio
is the best for floor-to- is a former butcher
ceiling lake views. For shop that serves out-
a more historic feel, standing bresaola—so
there’s the grand Villa soft and tasty, espe-
d’Este in Cernobbio cially with a glass of red
or the sweet Hotel wine from the nearby
Rusall in Tremezzina.” Inferno region. Harry’s
House and Garden Bar—no relation to
“The 18th-century the other Harry’s—in
Cernobbio does a great
King
Even in Italy, where seemingly every business Villa del Balbianello in
Lenno is magnificent; Aperol spritz.”
has been in the family forever, Cantiere Ernesto Riva
Casino Royale was shot Like Nonna Makes
stands out. The Lake Como–based boatyard was
Como
there. So is the Villa “Trattoria del Porto
founded in 1771 to transport the area’s gray limestone Carlotta in Tremezzina. near the pier in Careno
to Milan for the construction of the Duomo. Today, Both are now museums is a family affair—two
with sprawling gardens brothers serve creamy
Daniele Riva, scion sixth-generation boatbuilder Daniele Riva continues open to the public.” risotto, perch, and
the work of his father (and grandfather and…),
of the legendary The Long Lunch misultin, a local white-
painstakingly crafting wood-hulled boats by hand. fish that’s dried in
boat-making family, Though the brand is best known for the glamorous
“In the midlake village
salt and placed under a
of Bellagio, right next
knows his way 1950s mahogany motorboats that were synonymous to I Giardini di Villa weight all winter. I
swear it’s delicious.”
Photograph by Franco Brenna
around every corner with la dolce vita, Riva is continually nudging

Melzi, is Ristorante alle
Darsene di Loppia.
of the lake. it forward, like with his recent collab with Spanish It’s classy, but not
architect Patricia Urquiola on custom boats for
Il Sereno hotel. Here, he taps into nearly 300 years
of institutional knowledge to share his favorite
spots on the lake. C H R I S T I N A O H L Y E VA N S

09.17
WE’RE
TURNING
IN TRAVEL,
THREE
DECADES AND
A WORLD OF
POSSIBILITIES
When our first issue hit newsstands, in September

1987, camcorders were a new thing, Czechoslovakia
still existed, it was tough to plan a trip without a
travel agent, and you could light up on most flights.
But it’s not just how we travel that’s changed. The
collective mind-set has become more Yes, we can
than How can we? Even though the globe remains
riven with no-go zones (Syria, Yemen), we’re travel-
ing farther and going a whole lot deeper once we’re
there, even if it’s a quick jaunt: Cartagena for a cum-
bia-soaked weekend; Cambodia for the artisans and
street food; vineyards and horse riding in Argentina;
cross-country skiing in Antarctica. Whereas in the
Dynasty days of our founding, luxury was synony-
mous with 500-thread counts and presidential suites,
now it’s about being one of the few to spend the
night in the Himalayan kingdom of Mustang or wit-
ness a tribal festival in Papua New Guinea. On the
following pages, we explore how far we’ve come and
plot the journeys that once felt impossible. It sure
helps that our luggage has wheels. T H E E D I T O R S
Condé Nast Traveler 55

JUST GO ALREADY
TRIPS YOU THOUGHT WERE

ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME AND REQUIRED
WEEKS TO DO AREN’T AND
DON’T. BYE-BYE, BUCKET LIST
Recently I found myself with some free time after a business

trip to Cape Town, and wondered if I could squeeze in a
safari. Quick and now, I thought, was better than never. I
took three short flights to Kilimanjaro, where I was met by
Nomad Tanzania and driven to the lush Ngorongoro Crater,
which draws animals year-round. The next day we rode
five hours to Nomad’s camp in the Serengeti, past parades
of elephants and leggy giraffes nibbling acacia leaves. Day
one, we left camp at 6 A.M. and didn’t return till sundown-
ers. In hindsight, I could have made the trip from almost
anywhere, like Dubai (five hours to Nairobi), or Rome on a
red-eye (9.5 hours). Three days was plenty life-changing,
and now I know I’ll be back. R E B E C C A M I S N E R
Camp at the South Pole streets before catching a 2.5-

Get yourself to Punta hour nonstop to Hong
Arenas, Chile, and meet up Kong. From there, fly to the
THEY TOOK US THERE
with Salt Lake City–based Philippine island of Boracay
SOME OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL
Antarctic Logistics & and recover from culture
PHOTOGRAPHERS OF THE
Expeditions. They’ll fly you overload by floating in the
PAST 30 YEARS REIMAGINED THE
to Union Glacier in Antarc- gin bottle–blue sea. WORLD IN OUR PAGES
tica, where, after touching
down on a blue-ice runway, Do Machu Picchu
you’ll spend three days Taking four days to trek the
hiking, cross-country skiing, high-altitude Inca Trail that
and ogling ice waves before culminates at Machu Picchu
catching a flight for your is one way to see the citadel.
sleepover at the South Pole. Or, in less time, you could
spend a day in Lima (it’d be
Cover Southeast Asia a shame to miss Gastón
Stop punting Angkor Wat Acurio’s cooking), then catch
down the road until you can an 80-minute flight to Cuzco.
really do Southeast Asia. Take a day exploring the HER B R ITTS
With short, low-fare routes colonial town and its epic THE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER ELEVATED
THE CONVENTIONAL TRAVEL ASSIGNMENT WITH
linking much of the region, San Pedro food market. SEX APPEAL, SHOOTING A SUPERMODEL ON
you can do a ton in a week. The next morning, board the THE EMERGING JET-SET HUB OF ST. BARTS IN 1987.
Fly into Siem Reap and take train for the 3.5-hour ride
two days to see Cambodia’s to Machu Picchu and spend
most spectacular temples the day scrambling between
and shop its artisan-lined temples and llamas.

09.17
Long Weekend ( A L M O ST )
DANNY MEYER
ANYWHERE THEN and NOW

“THERE IS NO SUCH
THING AS
WHERE THE STYLE
‘UNDISCOVERED’ ”
You can get much more mileage out of three days than TRIBE USED TO
you once could—literally. Napa and Nantucket used to cut FLOCK, AND THEIR “When Union Square Cafe
it, but now we’ll pull off a 72-hour jaunt to Buenos Aires. NEXT STOPS opened 32 years ago, if I
If you sleep on American Airlines’ overnighter from JFK, wanted to discover a wine
you hit la tierra running in the A.M. (with no jet lag). New Ibiza Holbox or a pasta shape that wasn’t
San Sebastián Lima on someone else’s menu,
Yorkers can fly under seven hours on Royal Air Maroc’s
N.Y.C. L.A. I had to plan a trip, read a
daily nonstops for the souks and Art Deco of Casablanca. Bali Sumba Michelin map, speak French
Or take SAS’s 11 P.M. flight on a Friday and land in Marrakech Oaxaca
or Italian, and forge the
Tokyo Seoul
Copenhagen for an egg-on-rye brunch at Schoennemann kind of relationship with
Galápagos Antarctica
(a Monday-evening return secures you three days on the South Beach Cartagena a winemaker that would
ground). And with routes into Cartagena from two East Mykonos Hvar help me extract the name
Napa Mendoza of some under-the-radar
Coast cities, JetBlue has given us Labor Days sipping
Park City Revelstoke trattoria or bistro. When I
Aguila lagers by palm-studded pastel villas. E R I N F L O R I O Nepal Bhutan
succeeded, nobody knew
St. Barts St. Barts
where we’d gotten the idea.
Today I don’t even have to
travel for new inspiration—
I can see a picture on Insta-
When we were starting out in gram; I can’t get lost because
1985, it was implausible to think I have GPS; I don’t have to
speak the language or build
that one day I’d be able to shower relationships to find offbeat
at 30,000 feet, choose from among places because there’s no such
thousands of movies and shows, thing as ‘undiscovered.’ It’s
and enjoy five-star meals in flight.” easier, but the fun and mean-
Sir Tim Clark, president, Emirates ingfulness are a little spoiled,
like reading a movie review
before you see it.”
1988 The first 1989 Exxon Valdez runs

Trunk Archive; model Tatjana Patitz at Viva Model Management
THE 1987 Avis introduces

Aman Resort opens, in
Phuket, Thailand.
aground in Alaska’s
Prince William Sound,
MOMENTS handheld computers
that allow customers to 1988 The world’s first in-
spilling 257,000 barrels
of crude oil. 1990 Nelson
( BIG bypass rental counters. seat video system, with
2.7-inch displays, debuts.
Mandela walks
out of prison.
AND
SMALL ) 1987 Congress 1989
THAT bans smoking on

domestic flights of
1988
Pan Am Flight 103 is bombed
Berlin Wall
falls.
1990
McDonald’s
IMPACTED two hours or less. above Lockerbie, Scotland;
270 people are killed.
opens
in Moscow.
TRAVEL 1989 Tiananmen
Square protests begin.
illustrations by ELSA JENNA portraits by DENISE NESTOR

09.17
We’re more connected

technologically than ever, but
in some ways also more divided
Take Your Kids

as a global culture. Travel can help
bridge this gap.” Edie Rodriguez,
CEO and president, Crystal Cruises
NOW THEY COME EVERYWHERE WITH US—

The Arctic Via Ice Ship Alt–Costa Rica
AND ARE WAY BETTER FOR IT
Will Bolsover had us at nar- Everyone you know has
whals. “You also get polar already zip-lined here, so
bears putting their feet up beat them to Nicaragua to
the sides of the boat,” says the surf the Pacific (stay at the
founder of Natural World family-owned Mukul); hit
I started traveling with my children when they were babies. People said, “But they’ll never
Safaris, who books up to 18 Granada for volcanoes and
remember Paris!” and I said, in the first place, we don’t live the present only for future
passengers on a gentrified coffee plantations (book the
memories; in the second place, I had to travel for my work and didn’t want to leave them 1A-class ice ship for an 8-to-11- Spanish colonial mansion
behind; and finally and most important, regular visits to other countries would let them day passage through the icy cum pool Casa La Merced);
grow up knowing that there are other places in the world where people live and speak Norwegian Svalbard archipel- then finish at Nekupe for
differently. As they have grown older, we have taken them to many far-flung spots, includ- ago during Arctic summer. skeet shooting, horseback
ing Brazil, India, Sri Lanka, Dubai, the Maldives, and Australia, as well as much of Europe. riding, and monkeys in trees.
Japan = The New
My son had been on five continents by the time he was five. The frequency of our trips
Disneyland? Sri Lankan Surf n’ Turf
has helped to make him a stalwart traveler; he can go anywhere and experience anything.
There may be no better trip An everyone-leaves-happy
In Sri Lanka, he not only climbed to the top of the Sigiriya rock fortress but also visited an for Gen Bored. In Tokyo, trifecta of culture (rock
orphanage; in India, we saw the Taj Mahal and the sights of Rajasthan, and visited more you’ve got the flashing lights temples and tea plantations),
deprived parts of Mumbai. It’s far too easy to become a child sophisticate by virtue of of Shinjuku and brash styles nature (leopards and ele-
taking a few trips to Europe and the Caribbean. To be a responsible world citizen, you of Harajuku, low-lift shop- phants in Yala National Park),
need to understand how wide and beautiful the world is, and how many kinds of both ping (cat trinkets, gummies), and sandy beaches in a
stand-up sushi and ramen country that’s flourishing
pain and joy it contains. I truly believe that this sort of early travel shapes character. It is
vending machines, and parks post–civil war with more
teaching my children so very much without their feeling they are being schooled or lec-
all over. Bullet-train it to than a dozen new hotels
tured. It allows them to discover those truths of humanity that are inscribed in its diver- Kyoto for the temples and (four made our Hot List in
sity. It makes them better people. And we have such a good time (almost) everywhere a bamboo forest where May). Ampersand Travel
we go. A N D R E W S O L O M O N you’ll all feel like Ewoks. can hook you up.
1990 1993
First Web George and Kramer
server goes scheme to get a 1995 The first EasyJet
online. 1992 Avis introduces bereavement fare flight takes off, from 1996
1991 Oldsmobile Toronados with on Seinfeld . 1994 Southwest London Luton Airport to Expedia.com
Soviet Union TravTek, the first rental-firm Airlines issues the Glasgow. and MapQuest
dissolves. navigation system. first e-ticket. .com launch.
1990 Smoking 1992 1993 1994 The Channel 1995 Choice Hotels is
is banned on Category 5 Czechoslovakia Tunnel, between Great the first chain to put
U.S. cross- 1991 Eastern, Midway, Hurricane ceases to exist. Britain and the 1995 Alaska its room inventory online.
country flights. and Pan Am airlines all Andrew strikes Continent, opens. Airlines becomes
shut down. South Florida. the first U.S.
carrier to sell
tickets online.

09.17
FLY
(SEMI)
PRIVATE
When TCS World Travel launched its first round-the-world

charter flight, in 1995, to see Burma, Easter Island, and
Papua New Guinea, the idea of hopping a private jet with
a bunch of strangers was bonkers. Today, everyone’s dab-
bling in the sharing economy, and the superwealthy are
cool with going splitsies so long as the payoff is a turnkey,
see-it-all trip you couldn’t possibly replicate by going
commercial. That explains why outfitters are trying to one-
up TCS: the Abercrombie & Kent expedition that hits
Bhutan, Iceland, and Tasmania; andBeyond’s two-week
safari to the Ngorongoro Crater, northern Rwanda, and
Zanzibar; Safrans du Monde’s grand tour of Asia, landing
in Jaipur, Kyoto, Samarkand, and Siem Reap. Tickets for
these epic trips can top six figures—but that’s a steal com-
pared to a new Gulfstream G650. P A U L B R A D Y
THEN and NOW
THREE DECADES OF TRAVEL

BY THE NUMBERS
1987 2017
A gallon of gas: $0.90 $2.45
U.S. passports issued: 4,872,403 16,565,992
Average domestic airfare: $237.66 $344.22
Seat width on a Boeing 737: 19" 16.1"
Global airline passengers: 1 billion 4.1 billion

PHILIP-LORCA DICORCIA
THE IMAGES HE SHOT FOR TRAVELER HAD A LOOSE,
ANTI-POSTCARD FEELING AND AN OPENNESS Peak-season children’s admission
$22 $118
TO THE ABSURD, LIKE THIS SURREAL DRAMA OF A BEAR to Disney World:
TAMER IN ISTANBUL IN 1993.
Major airlines in the U.S.: 29 12
Trunk Archive
Round-trip checked-bag fee on

$0 $50
most carriers:
On Southwest Airlines: $0 $0

Morocco, Dune to Desert
With smooth roads and a
landscape that unfolds
from sea to mountains to
desert, this country is
best traveled by car. Gun it
Road Trip
from Casablanca to haute-
nomad surf town Essaouira,
head east to Marrakech for
the souks and tagine, wind
through apricot groves to the
Atlas Mountains, and end in
THE WORLD Ouarzazate, where Lawrence

of Arabia was filmed.
Ireland’s Rugged Edge

Since the 1,600-mile Wild
THE CLASSIC AMERICAN PASTIME Atlantic Way coastal highway
GOES GLOBAL opened in 2013, road-trip-
pers have been exploring its
once remote cliffs, castles,
and cottages. We like the five-
day drive from Dingle (stop
Tooling around in the Crown Vic for a week used to feel for seafood at Global Village)
like consolation for the exotic vacation we couldn’t take. to Mizen Head, with a night
But now better roads and rentals in many countries—and at cozy Dromcloc House
the hack that is GPS—are putting travelers back in the near a shingle beach.
driver’s seat. On a recent trip to the Yucatán, my husband
Norway by Design
and I drove from Cancún to Playa del Carmen to discover
In 1997, the government
it’s hardly the cute town it was 20 years ago. So we floored repurposed 18 defunct coun-
it south to perpetually eco-chic Tulum, stopping for try roads as culture and
Mayan ruins and a dip in a cenote, even scoring a table at nature drives, inviting top
Hartwood. We could have stayed all week, but the penin- architects to design hotels
sula’s well-maintained network of roads made it easy to along the way. Take the
Geiranger-to-Trollstigen
keep going—to colonial Valladolid with its arty expat W ILLI A M A BR A NOW ICZ
route to marvel at the Geiran-
crowd (there’s a gorgeous Coqui Coqui hotel there) and
gerfjord and stay in one of
Art + Commerce
through the jungle to the design-and-food mecca of the seven glass cubes at
Mérida. All a needed reminder that sometimes the end Jensen & Skodvin–designed
point is beside the point. R . M . Juvet Landscape Hotel.
1997 2000
Titanic hits Car-sharing concept goes 2001 “Shoe bomber”
theaters. mainstream as City Car Richard Reid attempts 2003 Boeing
1998 1999 Club, Flexcar, and Zipcar to blow up American introduces
Priceline.com The first Ace all start operations. 2000 Amtrak introduces Airlines Flight 63; world’s first
starts Hotel opens, in Acela Express, which can 2001 the FAA orders airport in-flight Wi-Fi
taking bids. Seattle. operate at up to 150 mph. 9/11 shoe inspections. service.
1996 TWA Flight 1998 1999 2000 2001

2002
800 crashes Hilton announces Y2K hysteria JetBlue launches, American
into the Atlantic deal with MobileStar takes over. with flights from businessman Hello, euros—so
12 minutes after to add wireless JFK to Buffalo and Dennis Tito long, francs, lire,
departing JFK. Internet to 100 hotels. Fort Lauderdale. becomes and pesetas. 2003 British Airways Flight
the first tourist 002 from JFK to Heathrow is
in space. the Concorde’s last.

09.17
My little glimpse of
Alaska makes me think
it is the last unspoiled place on
earth. If I were an Alaskan,
I would build a fence around it
and vigorously interrogate
anyone who wanted to visit.”
Paul Theroux, travel writer
CRUISE TO
PLACES YOU
THEN and NOW CAN’T
OTHERWISE
REACH
SOME OF THE
STUFF YOU
DON’T HAVE TO
SCHLEP
A TRAVELER CONTRIBUTING THANKS TO THE When I started to travel for a living, under the cover of
PHOTOGRAPHER FOR 25 YEARS, HIS DEEPLY PERSONAL IPHONE journalism, I realized the only sure scoop I could get was
AND PAINTERLY PHOTOS OF THE GREEK
ISLANDS (HERE, SANTORINI IN 1990 AND 1995) by finding my way to remote corners of the world. Boats
INSPIRED YEARS OF ARTICLES. Books, were key—small expedition ships skippered by maverick
newspapers, and magazines
Camcorder explorer types. The ships have shallow draughts to
Watch penetrate river systems, ice-strengthened hulls to take
Music player on the poles; they’re small enough to maneuver into
Camera
Address book tricky anchorages and light enough on passengers to not
2004
Translator overwhelm the wildlife or fragile communities they
Queen Mary 2 Alarm clock access. “Microcruising” has defined my most compelling
makes maiden 2005 Michelin Games
Maps and atlases trips since, now bookable by all—from Papua New
voyage from publishes its first
Southampton 2005 ratings guide for Movie player Guinea’s Oro Province with True North Adventure
to Fort Google Maps the U.S., focused Flashlight Cruises to Indonesia’s Banda Islands archipelago, where
Lauderdale. debuts. on New York. Compass
Notebook and pens Tiger Blue and Silolona sail among the islands once
Cash and credit cards famous for their troves of nutmeg. A journey this spring
Speedometer with Heritage Expeditions took me to the Kuril Islands,
2005
Pedometer
Hurricane Katrina Radio which arc between Hokkaido in Japan and Kamchatka in
2004 Mark hits the Gulf Coast. GPS navigation Russia. Our small ship anchored in rough seas. In Zodiacs,
Zuckerberg
unleashes we slipped through a narrow opening into a sunken
Facebook. caldera with water as still as an oil slick; as the sun fell,
thousands of balletic auklets came in to roost—a natural
phenomenon few will ever witness. S O P H Y R O B E R T S
09.17
TURN YOUR
Layover Mini-Vacation INTO A SIR RICHARD BRANSON
“MY ULTIMATE
DREAM IS TO OPEN UP
ICELANDAIR GOT US ALL TO REYKJAVIK; NOW OTHER CARRIERS ARE
OFFERING POWER STOPOVERS IN THEIR FLAGSHIP CITIES
SPACE TO ALL”
“Travel has always played
Where You’re Stopping How to Do It On the Ground Why It’s Worth It a huge role in my life.
I have my mum to thank
Get no-fee, four-day The options aren’t listed The offer is conditional Americans don’t for my adventurous
streak; she’d push me out
AIR CHINA
stopovers in Shanghai or on the airline’s website. on using an Air China– need a visa for the stop-
Beijing when flying on You’ll have to pick up the approved hotel and guide. over, which means of the car and tell me to
this Star Alliance mem- phone to secure the You’ll get to the Great you get to skip the annoy-
ber between the U.S. extra ground time and Wall, just maybe not on ing paperwork, embassy find my own way to my
and other Asian cities. book your flight. your own terms. trips, and fees. grandmother’s house!
Virgin Atlantic came
about when I got stuck
This Oneworld
When booking on the Do the full five days:
Unlike other airlines, in Puerto Rico trying to
website, choose Shop local brands like
FINNAIR
member offers five days Finnair offers the get to the British Virgin
the duration of your stop- Makia in Helsinki’s Design
in the Nordic design extended layover, as well Islands after my flight was
over (five hours to District; hike nearby
capital of Helsinki when as custom itineraries,
flying to Asia.
five days) and direction Uunisaari Island; and take
at no additional charge. canceled. I had a beautiful
(in- or outbound). the ferry to Tallinn. lady waiting for me in
BVI, so I hired a plane
and borrowed a black-
The airline offers Choose it when Stay at the year-old Four If you fly on a
two-day stopovers you book your flight Seasons. Check out business-class ticket, board and as a joke wrote
ETIHAD
in Abu Dhabi online. Thanks to the Iron Age pottery at the Etihad will cover a VIRGIN AIRLINES, $39 ONE
when connecting new regulations, Al Ain National Museum, night at one of 60 pre-
WAY TO BVI on it. Finding
to any of its U.S. citizens can get a and try the sea bass mium hotels; travel
other destinations. visa upon entry. tartare at Café Milano. in first, it’ll comp two. the Virgin Limited Edition
properties has also been
fun; it was my mum who
Since 2016, American Stay at Lisbon’s new TAP’s 18-month-old first spotted the divine
Click the Stopover
travelers headed to Verride Palácio Santa partnership with JetBlue
tab on TAP’s website, fortress Kasbah Tamadot
Europe or Africa (includ- Catarina near the MAAT means more American
TAP
which lets you from the road while I

ing the Azores) can art museum. In Porto, passengers, plus its
extend a layover when
spend up to three days tour centuries-old wine Stopover app offers hotel was attempting a world
you buy your flight.
in Porto or Lisbon. cellars and churches. and restaurant discounts.
record in a hot-air bal-
loon. Necker Island…well,
that was a ploy to win
over Joan, my wife. From
my travels I’ve been
The ’80s were known for ostentatious decadence, but today our guests inspired to set up not-for-
find luxury in less insular and more culture-rich experiences. Of course, profits to tackle issues
we do have hotels that offer butlers and helicopter transfers, but the key such as conflict and
is getting the balance between highly personalized service and localized global warming. My ulti-
experience just right.” Filip Boyen, CEO, Small Luxury Hotels of the World mate dream is to open
up space to all.”

09.17
SEE THEM
BEFORE
THEY’RE GONE
...AND HELP MAKE SOME

NOISE ABOUT GLOBALIZATION
AND CLIMATE CHANGE
The small island of Cartí Sugtupu barely pokes above the

Caribbean tide, and sometime in the next 50 years, the
sea will swallow it, along with hundreds of other islands
off the coast of Panama. These palm-shaded specks have
been home to the Kuna people for more than 250 years,
and local traditions carry on despite the grim forecast.
I visited in 2014 for a book on the science of tides and wit-
nessed a traditional coming-of-age ceremony—a three-
day party that brought canoeloads of families laden with
baskets of plantains, coconuts, and rice to a thatched-
roof hut, where islanders drank fermented chicha, bobbed
PA R I DUKOV IC
WE DISPATCHED DUKOVIC (WHO STILL USES A to the breathy tones of panpipes, and celebrated a young
35-MM LEICA) TO VENICE IN 2016 TO SHOOT THE CITY IN
HIS TRADEMARK IMPRESSIONISTIC STYLE,
woman’s reintroduction to the community. But rising seas
BRINGING A FRESH FOCUS TO A FAMILIAR PLACE. remain top of mind for everyone here. “For us, the tide
is a spiritual visitor,” my fixer, Delfino Reyes, said. “But sci-
entifically we accept that if sea levels rise three feet, as
they’re estimated to, we’ll have to leave our homes and
start over. The people along the coast can move upland.
We can’t.” J O N A T H A N W H I T E
Explore Rural China climate change, which is

2008
2006 The launch Airbnb As the country’s One Belt, already impacting Russia’s
of HomeAway.com 2007 The double-decker launches. One Road project paves far north, where Intrepid
shakes up the Airbus A380 debuts, over Asia, you can still find Travel can take you by
vacation-rental flying between Singapore elements of traditional expedition-ready truck.
marketplace. and Sydney.
life—rice terraces, farmers’
and crafts markets, and Sail Unseen Myanmar
2006 tribal villages—in Yunnan The 800 islands of the
2007 Study-abroad
We start complaining nightmare: Amanda Province, with help from Mergui Archipelago, west
about airlines in Knox is arrested for a Wild Frontiers guide. of the Malay Peninsula, are
140 characters or less murdering her roommate sparsely populated by the
thanks to Twitter. 2007 in Perugia, Italy. Go Deep into Siberia Moken people, whose fish-
Virgin America
Indigenous Nenets people ing communities are best
takes off.
have seen their reindeer- seen from aboard a Burma
herding ways realigned by Boating charter yacht.

09.17
THEN and NOW
Dream It
WE USED TO FRANCIS
STICK TO THE BIG FORD
COPPOLA
THREE. TODAY,
IT’S ALL ABOUT... “I WILL ALWAYS
Baltimore, Md.
THINK OF SYRIA”
for Chesapeake oysters at
THEY’LL TAKE YOU THERE Woodberry Kitchen.
Bentonville, Ark.
“The greatest trip I think
I’ve ever taken was to Syria,
for Basquiat and Rauschenberg about four or five years
at the Crystal Bridges ago. The country was beau-
Museum of American Art.
tiful, the food was spectac-
THE BEST TRAVEL AGENTS HAVE BOUNCED BACK AS
THE WORLD’S BIGGEST POWER BROKERS Indianapolis, Ind.
for bibimbap at MilkWood.
ular, the people warm
and welcoming. I visited
Louisville, Ky. Aleppo, Damascus, and
for the original, game-changing Palmyra. Aleppo was a big,
21c Museum Hotel. vital city home to all faiths:
Nashville, Tenn. Christians who had lived
We’ve got Alexa, Kayak, Orbitz, and Siri, but actual human travel specialists are still
for cup after cup of that there for centuries, friendly
working miracles that machines can’t. “The whole point of calling someone like me is Steadfast coffee. and kind Muslims, Jews,
to take away the logistics so your trip just flows,” says Mara Solomon of the villa-rental Kurds, Druze, Alawis—all
Pittsburgh, Pa.
agency Homebase Abroad. The right expert can help you bypass the traffic jams on for a perfect pilsner at the of them seemingly happy
Mount Everest and chopper into Mustang, a high-altitude region that only opened Church Brew Works. and comfortable with each
to tourism in 1991, where you can have lunch with Buddhist monks and ride horses San Antonio, Tex. other. Palmyra was the
through Himalayan villages (Catherine Heald at Remote Lands). He’ll get you deep for bike rides to Spanish most extraordinary ancient
missions along the river. city I had ever seen, beyond
into the Great Rift Valley for an overnight stay with Richard Leakey, the famed paleontolo-
Pompeii and Ephesus. I
gist (Will Jones at Journeys by Design). He’ll have you hiking the Lago Chico loop in
will always think of Syria
Chile’s Patagonia Park, the private reserve started by Doug and Kris Tompkins, and sail- as the high-point visit of
ing past the O’Higgins Glacier, one of the Southern Hemisphere’s largest (Brian Pearson my life. I remain heartbro-
at Upscape). And she’ll hustle you into the Sangha Trinational conservation area, span- ken by what has been
ning the borders of Cameroon, the Central African Republic, and the Republic of the done to this ancient and
Congo, to stalk chimps, elephants, and gorillas in raw rain forest (Kate Doty at GeoEx). fabulous nation.”
Or you could just try googling this stuff. P. B .
2009
Millvina Dean, the
2010 Birth of
2009 Chesley last survivor of
Instagram causes
“Sully” Sullenberger the Titanic, dies. 2010 United
FOMO epidemic.
ditches US Airways Airlines 2010 2011 Kim Jong-il,
Flight 1549 in merges with Uber launches in Muammar el-Qaddafi, and
the Hudson River. Continental. San Francisco. Osama bin Laden die.
2008 Delta Air 2009 2010 Continental Airlines 2010 2010 2011 TSA PreCheck
Lines acquires Barack Obama stops serving free hot meals JetBlue flight Arab Spring starts at McCarran
Northwest Airlines. inaugurated. in coach (and forecasts a attendant begins. International Airport,
savings of $35 million a year). quits and hightails in Las Vegas.
it down the
emergency slide.

CHECK IN
TO A FIVE-STAR
RESORT
( W H E R E Y O U O N C E C A M P E D)
1987 2017
Patagonia
You could sleep Guests at Explora
comfortably in the lake Patagonia ride horses
district at places like by day, then recover
Hotel Correntoso, but in open-air Jacuzzis in
the rest of Patagonia was Torres del Paine
backpacker central. National Park.
New Zealand
Almost no decent hotels Now you can take in the
existed outside cities. Trav- Remarkables mountains
elers would drive and from Queenstown’s
set up tents in holiday park– Matakauri Lodge sipping
style camping grounds. an Otago pinot.
Himalayas
Your main options were The 2006 opening of
government-run guest- Relais & Châteaux’s Shakti
houses or no-frills 360° Leti brought feath-
hotels like Windamere in er-soft beds, pashmina
Darjeeling. Or you could blankets, and great coffee
pop a tent. to 8,000 feet.
Vietnam
Your options were fusty At the country’s first Four

grandes dames like Hotel Seasons, which opened in
Majestic and Caravelle Sai- Hoi An in December, crystal
gon whose gift shops hawked bowls are tuned to “sing” to
black-market Coca-Cola. you during spa treatments.
HELMUT NEWTON
AMONG THE FIRST TO MARRY HIGH-CONCEPT FASHION
2012 The Costa Concordia PHOTOGRAPHY WITH LUXURY TRAVEL, HE RE-
capsizes off Isola del Giglio, Italy, CREATED STEFAN ZWEIG’S STORY OF FORBIDDEN ROMANCE,
THE BURNING SECRET, IN THE ITALIAN
and 32 people are killed. 2013 Citi Bike starts SPA TOWN OF MONTECATINI TERME IN 1989.
©The Helmut Newton Estate/Maconochie Photography

Captain Francesco Schettino up in New York City and
abandons his crew and becomes the largest
passengers, having “tripped” into bike-sharing program
a lifeboat and to safety. in the U.S.
2012 Google
acquires 2013
Frommer’s, the American
2012 Eastman Airlines merges
guidebook brand.
Kodak files with US Airways.
(Arthur Frommer
for Chapter 11.
buys it back eight
months later.)
09.17
Hop Planes
…LIKE YOU USED TO HOP TRAINS.
LOW-COST CARRIERS ARE
PUTTING THE SPONTANEITY
BACK INTO TRAVEL
When I set off for Europe after my freshman year of col-

lege, in 1987, I strapped on a passport belt bulging with
traveler’s checks and my Eurail pass. One thing I did not
have was a plan. I caught trains along the Côte d’Azur
in search of the best beach; after failing to find a bed in
Barcelona one night, I boarded a train car with four empty
bunks and woke up in Zurich. Cheap, frequent transport
let you follow a whim or a tip, crisscrossing the continent
in often illogical ways. Recently my 18-year-old son
left for Europe. But instead of riding the rails, Sam will be
winging it, literally: Dublin to Copenhagen (Ryan Air, $99);
Amsterdam to Barcelona (Vueling, $69). In Asia, Jetstar
lets you hopscotch from Bangkok to Singapore to Jakarta;
in Mexico, Interjet and Volaris can get you pretty much
anywhere for peanuts. Yes, something is lost when you
don’t watch a country unfold to clacking train wheels,
but if you can breakfast in Paris and lunch in Fez for the
price of getting there? I’m in. A L E X P O S T M A N
2014 2016 Royal Caribbean’s 2017 United’s

Mount Harmony of the 2016 Terrorists last Boeing
Everest 2016 Two badass Seas sets sail as the attack Istanbul’s 747 flight
avalanche 2015 A maglev explorers complete the largest cruise ship ever Atatürk Airport; 2017 Southwest scheduled for
kills 16. train in Japan hits first circumnavigation built, at 226,963 48 killed, Airlines retires October.
a new speed of the globe in a solar- gross register tons. including three beige shorts for
record of 375 mph. powered plane. perpetrators. flight attendants.
2014 2015 The First World 2016 2016 Virgin Atlantic 2017
Ebola Hotel and Plaza in U.K. votes 2016 announces it has produced President
epidemic Malaysia adds a new on Brexit. Alaska Air jet fuel derived from Trump
hits West 2015 The Eiffel block to reclaim its title 2016 Group buys industrial-waste gases pushes his
Africa. Tower goes dark after as world’s largest hotel, U.S. cruise ships Virgin America; “travel ban.”
terrorists kill 130 with 7,351 rooms. and airlines arrive plans to
in and around Paris. en masse in Cuba. shut it down.
Condé Nast Traveler 73

84
IN MEXICO’S EMERGING DESIGN-AND-FOOD
MECCA, A TIGHT-KNIT GROUP OF WOMEN
ENTREPRENEURS AND LOCAL ARTISANS TEAM UP
TO LAUNCH A SLOW-CRAFT MOVEMENT
FOR THE AGES
by Pilar Guzmán photographs by Gentl and Hyers

PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT:
AN INSTALLATION AT MUSEO TEXTIL
DE OAXACA; ISABEL, A FOUNDING
MEMBER OF THE VIDA NUEVA
WEAVING COOPER ATIVE, BR AIDING
JESSICA CHR ASTIL’S HAIR. OPPOSITE:
CER AMICS FROM A PARTNERSHIP
BETWEEN COLLECTIVE SAN MARCOS
TLAPAZOLA AND COLECTIVO 1050°.
‘‘I
loosely plotting Chrastil’s corner in relation to the 17th-century
Baroque Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the town’s
geographic and spiritual epicenter, I felt comfortable enough
to go mapless to sample a squash-blossom quesadilla I’d heard
about that was sold deep in the mazelike Mercado de Abastos,
and dip into Colectivo 1050°, a ceramics design collective where
I recognized the same simple black bowl I’d eaten from a few
“It’s the blue house across from Hotel Casa de las Flores, around hours earlier. Like so many towns in Mexico, the orientation of
six,” the text read. I was heading to the home of Jessica Chrastil, the streets and gravitational pull of the church just make sense,
an American expat running a small but influential residency a logistical ease that gives rise to a personal one.
for creatives and academics called Pocoapoco in the heart of Through an open window from the street, I had a view of
Oaxaca. She’d invited me to join a few of her friends and col- Chrastil’s kitchen and five women standing around sipping
laborators for drinks that evening. glasses of Real Minero Pechuga mezcal while speaking in a mix
I’d spent the morning with Chrastil, walking along the cob- of English and Spanish. Like most of the city’s brightly painted
blestoned streets of central Oaxaca and ducking into markets, colonial buildings with fortresslike stucco walls, Chrastil’s
shops, and restaurants whose ocher, fuchsia, and turquoise opens up onto a whitewashed courtyard; the house serves as
exteriors were all the more striking against charcoal skies both her private home and a handful of apartments and stu-
threatening imminent downpour. Our first stop was Boulenc, dios for residents. In under two years, Chrastil, whose long,
a European-style artisanal bakery turned café that reached cult blond surfer-girl hair and all-white linen pant–and–tank top
food-world status with its mastery of sourdough fermentation uniform makes her easy to spot around town, has become
and use of ancient regional grains. With a cast of local artists Oaxaca’s de facto cultural whisperer, connector, and pied
and expats in flowy skirts and panama hats lingering over rus- piper among a certain international set of artists and design-
tic courtyard tables and a casual craft-food menu (shakshuka ers, academics and social entrepreneurs. These include tex-
with perfectly poached eggs, and the best riff on avocado toast tile designers Ana Paula Fuentes and Maddalena Forcella of
I’ve ever had), Boulenc epitomizes Oaxaca’s cultural frisson. the CADA Foundation; Sara López, Sofía Sampayo García,
Equal parts earthy and sophisticated, Oaxaca is like a mashup and Michelle Ruelas of the fashion-and-accessories line Lanii;
of present-day Venice Beach and every generation’s fantasy
of what downtown New York was like in some previous era.
It’s no wonder that so many Pocoapoco residents—ceram-
icists, fashion designers, dancers, museum curators, and pho-
tographers—plan for a week in Oaxaca and end up staying a
month. Time is more fluid here, much like the social interactions.
By cocktail hour, I was moving at a local’s pace, as though walk-
ing to a good friend’s house in my own neighborhood. After

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CALLE DE
MANUEL GARCÍA VIGIL; GUACAMOLE
WITH HERBS AND A BARBACOA BEEF
TAMALE WITH R ADISH AND AVOCADO
AT CRIOLLO; FOURTH-GENER ATION
MEZCAL MAKER GR ACIELA ÁNGELES
CARREÑO; SUCULENTA, AN OFFSHOOT
OF BOULENC BAKERY; DANCING AT
A STREET FAIR; LOCAL INGREDIENTS
USED IN SUCULENTA’S JAMS.
and industrial designer Salime Harp Cruces of the glass studio

Studio Xaquixe—each of whom, in her own way, is linking local
artisans to the global economy. Core to their businesses is a
near-forensic understanding of very specific, regionally codified
textile design, basket weaving, and glass- and pottery-making
practices, some of which are hundreds, if not thousands, of
years old. In their skinny jeans and breezy tops, the group
defies all nonprofit-world stereotypes, sartorial and otherwise,
and would look as at home in New York or London as they
do here. By all accounts, while most have spent years either
studying or working outside of Oaxaca in places like Mexico
City, Rome, Barcelona, and New York, the tug of the mecca of
handicraft (or “the real Mexico,” as so many Mexicans from
other cities call it) is irrefutable.
Not so long ago, craft was something of a dirty word. “It was
craft or design, but they never mixed,” Fuentes said. Forcella,
who came to Oaxaca most recently from Chiapas, described
a global “boom of handicraft” in the region as a blessing and a
curse. “We are living in a privileged moment,” added Fuentes, of
the growing craft trend you see in the proliferation of embroi-
dery and tassels in every collection from Isabel Marant to
J.Crew. “But we have to be conscious of our social, not just aes-
thetic, responsibility to work with the people who carry these
traditions so that they don’t die out when the trend is over.”
The irony isn’t lost on them that while Oaxaca—Land of the
Seven Moles, as well as of the ancient city of Monte Albán, a
complex of pyramids, markets, and temples built by the highly
advanced Zapotecs, who also produced some of the earliest
365-day calendars and forms of writing—is trending among
an international gypset, it’s also one of Mexico’s poorest states.
And so the group embraces fashion’s ephemeral spotlight with
cautious optimism, looking to the success of the Slow Food
movement, which has drawn international attention to the
nuance of, say, a yellow mole, as well as the deceptive sim-
plicity of a street cart memela spread with asiento (pork fat).

LEFT: A SPREAD FROM “If you empower the women artisans and create conscious- while translating the value of these crafts to the international
SUCULENTA AND
BOULENC. ABOVE: THE ness around it, the whole family and communities benefit and market, the irregularity and singularity of each piece is both a
MENDOZA SISTERS can stay rooted in their towns,” said Harp Cruces, whose mis- unique selling proposition and an Achilles’ heel. “When you
AT THEIR RESTAUR ANT,
TLAMANALLI, IN THE sion as founding director of Studio Xaquixe is to marry inno- are producing a big line of bags for a client, it’s very hard for
NEARBY TOWN OF
TEOTITLÁN DEL VALLE.
vative glass design with sustainable production practices in people to understand the limitations of materials and natu-
everything they create, from handblown water carafes to major ral dyes,” said López, who with her two partners created the
art and architectural installations. “Eventually, it creates a path fashion-forward accessories line Lanii, as well as a business
toward stopping emigration.” that helps source materials for international fashion designers.
As I looked around Chrastil’s house, I noticed that the woven “In India and Guatemala, it’s just a factory mentality,” Forcella
baskets strewn around the kitchen had slightly more refined chimed in. “In Oaxaca, it’s one woman or man, and it’s a hand-
silhouettes than the ones you see stacked in the open mar- icraft.” Along with her partners, López will often drive some
kets—as did the sand-colored cups. Some were collaborations six hours each way to meet with artisans in remote villages,
between local artisans and designers like Harp Cruces and not just to collaborate on design and keep production on task
López, who make tweaks that appeal to a certain global style but to cement relationships and therefore trust. “Occasionally,
tribe. We were, in fact, tipping back tiny handblown glasses something will get lost in translation and someone will get
from Studio Xaquixe, no two of which are exactly the same. offended or say, ‘I don’t have time anymore,’ and we try to
For these women, whose life’s work is to empower the artisans convince them to work with us on a certain design again,”

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT: R AW
INDIGO FOR DYEING
RUGS; THE CHURCH OF
SANTO DOMINGO
DE GUZMÁN; A MEZCAL
COCKTAIL AT CASA
ESTAMBUL. OPPOSITE:
ALICE IN WONDERLAND –
ESQUE DOORS AT THE
NEWLY OPENED HOTEL
LOS AMANTES.
OaxAca How -To
Where to Eat coloradito. Check out Origen for a

The truth is, you could eat just creative, global-tinged take on Oaxaca’s
street and market tlayudas (those hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients
dinner plate–size tostadas), memelas, (homemade noodles with beef barba-
and tamales and leave happy, but coa and a poached egg). Still solid,
you’d be missing some of the well- Los Danzantes, with its dramatic three-
deserved hype at the high end. story stone-wall space and reflecting
Consider the following a jumping- pool, was the original upscale new
off point. For breakfast: Itanoní, Oaxacan cuisine outpost. A nice option
a plastic-chair, paper-napkin joint if you don’t want to commit to a long,
known for using rigorously sourced heavy meal is to sit in the groovy lounge
heirloom-corn varieties to make to order the duck tacos and pick
all manner of simple tortilla dishes from an endless selection of mezcal.
with endless fillings. Order the
orange-pineapple-celery juice or Where to Drink
try tascalate (a sweet local drink If you’re new to mezcal, La
made from roasted corn and choco- Mezcaloteca, a speakeasy-style bar
late) and chicharrón-filled tetelas that takes the spirit very seriously,
and fried eggs with aromatic hoja will educate you. Small, dark, and hip,
santa leaves. Chilhuacle Rojo is a In Situ is for the veteran mezcal
go-to for chilaquiles and one of the drinker; trust the bartender and leave
best versions of squash-blossom with a jar of pickled agave flowers.
quesadillas; try the heavenly bowl For inspired cocktails and a young,
of chilaquiles cremoso and a green arty crowd, hit café-by-day, bar-by-
juice at Casa Estambul, which skews night Casa Estambul.
clean for breakfast and lunch;
and stop by Boulenc for either a quick Where to Stay other soft goods for the home. The city also has a magical ethnobo-
coffee and pastry or a proper sit- The OG pick is Quinta Real, a former Colectivo 1050° champions and offers tanic garden designed by local
down egg breakfast or kefir with fruit 16th-century convent turned 91-room a well-designed selection of pottery artist Francisco Toledo, where every
and granola. The rooftop restaurant hotel with terra-cotta-tile floors and from different villages throughout the plant has a story—some of the
at hotel Casa Oaxaca, overlooking courtyards dripping in bougainvillea. region. Tienda Q is like a mini Colette indigenous species were “rescued”
the Baroque Santo Domingo A more modern option is Casa Oaxaca or 10 Corso Como in its art-meets- from development projects around
de Guzmán church, is hard to top (simple whitewashed rooms with fashion sensibility, with elevated ver- the city; others have been used
for a leisurely alfresco lunch or pops of that very specific Oaxacan sions of woven-palm totes and leather medicinally for centuries.
dinner—they do a beautiful table- hot pink, lots of breezy open lounge sandals. You can find a selection of
side salsa, great ceviche, and a spaces, and great food). The new glassware from Studio Xaquixe, Day Trips
perfect heirloom-tomato salad with kid in town is Los Amantes, a modern which is located about 15 miles from Apart from the Mitla and Monte
quesillo (local string cheese) and a new-build that has eschewed the the city center, at the Christian Albán ruins, the church at San
veal-tongue green mole. Los Pacos default colonial style for a more Ace Thornton Gallery in central Oaxaca. Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, about
will school you in the different Hotel crossed with a Tom Sachs art 15 miles outside of town, is a
mole flavor profiles with a sampler installation vibe. What to See 16th-century hand-painted master-
of each (they do an especially In addition to the big, beautiful Museo piece. And located in a stunning
great version of alcaparrado, made Where to Shop de las Culturas de Oaxaca, there are 19th-century hacienda, the Centro
with capers). Enrique Olvera’s Los Baúles de Juana Cata stocks a number of small, wonderful muse- de Las Artes de San Agustín Etla, a
new Criollo is set in a colonial man- some of the best-designed (i.e., ums, like the Instituto de Artes museum and cultural center, exhibits
sion with Aman-minimal black- they translate back at home) and Gráficas de Oaxaca and the Museo de pieces from Toledo’s collection.
and-blond interiors and dramatic highest-quality textiles in town— Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca. Teotitlán del Valle, a half-hour away,
organic stone planters and counters, skirts, shawls, embroidered shirts, is always worth a visit for lunch
and offers equally elevated riffs on and huipiles, which make great beach at the Mendoza sisters’ Tlamanalli
traditional Oaxacan dishes like mole cover-ups. Lanii, best known for restaurant and shopping for
woven bags with simple bridle-leather handwoven rugs. P. G .
handles and embroidered shirts, also
carries a nice ceramics edit, as well as

THE MENDOZA SISTERS
AT THEIR HOME IN
TEOTITLÁN DEL VALLE.
said Sampayo García, who oversees Lanii’s payment to arti-

sans. “Their problems are our problems,” López said. “Michelle
goes to a village and eats at every home! Once we get to a good
point, they trust us and we trust them.”
Creating a sustainable production model takes patience and
a hard-earned mutual trust, but also a radical cultural shift.
“Women here aren’t used to valuing their own time and craft,
which is just so much a part of them,” Chrastil said. “Asking
for money is rarely an option for these women.” Add to that a
deeply entrenched sexist culture. “Female artisans here are used
to paternalism and being abused,” Fuentes said. This machismo,
however, cuts across socioeconomic lines, creating a female sol-
idarity among the artisans and business owners. Harp Cruces
recounted a moment earlier in her career when she called in
a favor from a family friend who was high up in local govern-
ment to allow her to showcase regional crafts in the center
of town. “He gave us a shitty booth,” she recalled. “I said, ‘You
aren’t honoring the craftspeople of Oaxaca if the clients see
a shithole.’ ” Needless to say, he never spoke with her again.
Running a business while managing clients’ expectations
and fulfilling orders requires a delicate balance between cul-
ture and commerce. Fuentes is sensitive to the familiar pitfalls
of the traditional top-down philanthropic model. “We come
with the idea of being horizontal,” said Fuentes, who under-
stands that it only works if everyone recognizes that they are
in a business together built on mutual respect and a shared
goal. “We are humans—working with artisans doesn’t mean
‘helping’ them, it doesn’t mean fair trade. It’s about building
a solidarity economy.”
On my way back to the hotel, I stopped by Casa Estambul, a
café by day and mezcalería by night, for a nightcap. I spotted a
mix of French, American, and Mexican twentysomethings, all
wearing embroidered tops and dresses, sitting around a couple
of tables drinking small-batch mezcal, eating, and swaying to
the music. The idea that everything this crowd was wearing,
eating from, and sitting on had been made by hand from some-
where nearby inspired one of those body-warming revelations
of our human connectedness that seem to strike when one is
alone on foreign soil. Then again, maybe it was the mezcal.

above
CrilLOn
and

by Christopher Bagley photographs by Roberto Badin
THE ICONIC PARISIAN HOTEL AND FORMER HAUNT OF

NONE OTHER THAN MARIE ANTOINETTE IS BACK AFTER A FOUR-YEAR
RENOVATION. WE CHECK IN FOR A NIGHT
hermes.com; hat case, thefreyabrand.com; bag, cartier.com; Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, sunglasshut.com; bag, us.charlotteolympia.com; dress, select Prada boutiques. This spread, from left: Jacket, tomford.com; shirt, hermes.com
Styling by Vanessa Giudici. Previous spread, from left: Earrings, select Dior boutiques; Bulgari necklace, 800-285-4274; Judith Leiber Couture clutch, Neiman Marcus stores; pocket square, gucci.com; trunks, Goyard boutiques; bag,
Previous spread, from left: Judith Leiber Couture Grand Hotel trunks ............... A mantel in the Duc de Crillon
A table in the Jardin Suite, Slender clutch .............. $7,995 ............... $15,600 and $11,000 Suite; its connecting salon
which opens onto an orangery. Gucci GG Wallpaper pocket Hermès Haut à Courroies is where President Woodrow
Dior High Jewelry Dior square ............................... $125 50 bag .......................... $13,100 Wilson signed the League of
à Versailles Salon de Diane Freya Poppy hat case ... $890 Nations treaty in 1919.
earrings .... price upon request The view from the Salon des Cartier Louis Cartier Dolce & Gabbana Mambo
Bulgari Serpenti High Aigles, overlooking the Place 24-Hour bag ............... $3,850 collection sunglasses..... $650
Jewelry necklace ....................... de la Concorde. Charlotte Olympia Bogart
................. price upon request Goyard Malle Palace and bag .................................. $2,995
Prada dress ................. $10,630
A decade ago, when I was a Paris-
based editor for W magazine, my
office was a block away from the
Hôtel de Crillon. I walked past its
colonnaded 18th-century facade
hundreds of times, but rarely felt compelled to step inside. True,
the hotel’s gilded salons offered a perfect dose of old-world
Frenchness and made a glamorous backdrop for fashion-
week presentations and the occasional Paris Vogue party. But
you have to be in the mood to hang out on Louis XV furniture
under 20-foot ceilings, and the Crillon often felt a bit too stiff,
too regal, even by Paris hotel standards. When my boss was in
town from New York, or when I invited a museum curator for
drinks, we had other go-to spots, such as The Ritz or Le Bristol.
One day this past July, back in Paris, I had a good excuse to
cross the Crillon’s threshold: It had reopened that very morn-
ing, following a four-year renovation that cost a reported
$300 million. And, well, voilà. If the much-scrutinized overhaul
of The Ritz last year brought to mind a grande dame under-
going a discreet face-lift, the Crillon’s leaves you thinking that
she’s having a romance with a man half her age. There’s no hint
of formal froideur from the smiling young staffers, dressed in
breezy contemporary uniforms by 26-year-old designer Hugo
Matha. The once-sober lobby has been divided into several
bright, individual spaces, including a homey nook where con-
cierges sit alongside clients on velvet sofas. Through the court-
yard, past the salon of hairstylist David Lucas, there’s even a
men’s grooming area with vintage Aston Martin car seats and
an outpost of the hipster French barber La Barbière de Paris.
It’s all part of a plan by the new operator, Rosewood Hotels
& Resorts, to make the Crillon a real hangout for Parisians.
“Travelers who come to Paris want to feel like they’re in Paris,
and that means interacting with locals,” says general manager
Marc Raffray. The cocktail bar, in the space formerly occu-
pied by the haute cuisine restaurant Les Ambassadeurs, has
its entrance just next to the front door, so people can come
This spread: One of two Karl Tom Ford cocktail and go without parading across the lobby. Drink prices are
Lagerfeld suites, aka Les jacket ....................... $3,980
Grands Appartements. The Hermès tuxedo slightly less stratospheric than at Le Meurice or the George V,
walls were hand-painted shirt ............................. $560 with a glass of locally brewed Gallia beer going for 14 euros.
in nine shades of gray. The design team (Aline d’Amman, Chahan Minassian, Tristan
Auer, and a few other Paris insiders) made a point of preserving
the hotel’s sacred spaces—the second-floor Salon des Aigles is
as Versailles-worthy as ever—while mixing in opulent modern

This page, from left: A corner of
the Duc de Crillon Suite.
Hermès scarf ......................... $315
Turnbull & Asser gown .... $2,795
Bottega Veneta Knot
clutch . . . . . . . ......... . ................. $5,700
Louis Vuitton Exotic Steamer
bag ............... price upon request
A Carrera marble bath in the

Karl Lagerfeld suites.
Nicholas Kirkwood Lola
Pearl pumps ......................... $845
Valentino dress ............... $14,500
Opposite: A custom-designed
table below an 18th-century
Aubusson tapestry in the Marie-
Antoinette Suite. The room
was fashioned entirely by female
artisans.
Dolce & Gabbana
Welcome bag........................ $2,995
touches to make the whole place feel more accessible and alive. In the bar, the original
gold chandeliers remain, but they’ve been draped with silver chains.
Room rates are still more suited to billionaires than boulangers: If you want to book the
connecting Les Grands Appartements suites and salon designed by Karl Lagerfeld, that’ll
be 32,000 euros a night, breakfast not included. A longtime connoisseur of 18th-century
decor, Lagerfeld created his own chairs and sofas for the rooms, accenting them with
some of his photographs, and a two-ton bathtub cut from a single piece of Carrera mar-
ble. In the Marie-Antoinette Suite, reconceived by an all-female team of designers and
artisans, the most stunning feature may be the 400-square-foot terrace overlooking the
Place de la Concorde—the very spot where the young queen was guillotined in 1793.
In recent months, with France under a dynamic 39-year-old president, Paris has felt a
bit different—more open and forward-looking than usual. It could be just a coincidence
that the revamped Crillon reflects a similar modern spirit. But it’s rarely a bad sign when
a city, or a hotel, wants to belong in the current century.

Opposite page, from left: Scarf, hermes.com; gown, turnbullandasser.com; Bottega Veneta clutch, 800-845-6790; bag, louisvuitton.com; pumps, nicholaskirkwood.com; dress, Valentino boutiques. This page: bag, select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques
by Nancy Hass
MaRra
k
THE DUO
BEHIND
STUDIO KO
eCh
HAVE
BROUGHT moderne
THEIR OWN
CULTY
BRAND OF
MINIMALISM
TO THE
CAPITAL OF
MAXIMALISM
WITH NEXT
MONTH’S
OPENING OF
THE YSL
MUSEUM
photographs by Martien Mulder
103
he morning is cool and drizzly, unusual
T
for early summer in Marrakech, as our
jeep bumps along the road that winds
through the Atlas Mountains outside the
city. Villages fly by: goats nibbling alfalfa
by walls of red clay and stone; women
holding rope bags of fresh bread, lifting
the hems of their caftans to avoid the
mud; the brown fields of Amizmiz, where
on Tuesdays a cacophonous Berber mar-
ket springs to life with mountain dwellers
arriving by donkey or on foot.
Then, after one last town: nothing. This
is what Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty, the Paris-based archi-
tect couple who call themselves Studio KO, want to show me, as
the mist lifts and the primordial landscape of the Ourika Valley
opens up before us. I see a structure on a distant peak, a cubic
red-brick fortress cum villa aggressively shorn of ornament. “I
am happy every time I approach it from this angle,” says Marty,
fit and boyish in a gray T-shirt and black pants that evoke the
Marais more than the medina. “We believe there is a place in
Marrakech for the modern to live side by side with the past.”
There are few places with a style as recognizable as that of this
city, settled over a thousand years ago at the edge of the Sahara.
Thanks to an influx of tourists in recent years, its handcrafted
totems have become a global shorthand for haute hippie cool,
adorning Nob Hill town houses and Silver Lake Airstreams: orbs
of hammered tin that cast a lacy glow on living rooms done
in bright textiles, soft white Beni Ourain carpets, jewel-toned
babouche slippers. But Fournier and Marty—who came to the
city on holiday as École des Beaux-Arts students more than two
decades ago and opened an office here in 2001—have steadfastly
adhered to a less showy side of the artisanal tradition, infusing
the landscape with a more pared-down sensibility. By harness-
ing such near-extinct traditional local construction techniques
as pisé—pressed, molded earth—and applying them to a linear
silhouette, they honor the vernacular but free it of cliché. Their
minimalist mansions—several of which, including this austere brick citadel on the hill, simply
called Villa E, are sometimes available for rent by their globe-trotting owners—have helped
reinterpret Marrakech for a new generation of aesthetic-minded travelers and tastemakers.
It’s not hard to see the appeal of splitting your time between the vivacious medina, sleeping
PREVIOUS SPREAD: A VIEW OF VILLA E, in one of the dozens of ornate homes or riads that have lately been turned into guesthouses—
OVERLOOKING THE OURIK A VALLEY.
OPPOSITE: THE JARDIN MAJORELLE.
including El Fenn, owned by Vanessa Branson, sister of Virgin’s Richard, or Princess Letizia
THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: K ARL FOURNIER Ruspoli’s Dar Seven—and a mind-emptying stay in a place like Villa E (there are also Villas
AND OLIVIER MARTY AT VILLA E; THE
UNDULATING EXTERIOR OF THE NEW D and K nearby). You stare through the expanses of glass at the layered topography, run a
YSL MUSEUM, WHICH WILL HOUSE hand along cool walls textured with a lime wash, and nap by the infinity pool. “There is the
MORE THAN 20,000 PIECES FROM THE
LATE DESIGNER’S COLLECTION. Marrakech that is full to the top of sights and smells, of the medina and the souks, and that is
great,” says Fournier, the more instinctual of the pair, yang to Marty’s more practical yin, as
we reluctantly return to the jeep to head back to the city. “But here you connect with some-
thing different. You walk in, and you just breathe.”

ack in Guéliz, the Art Deco–tinged Ville Nouvelle area
B
settled by the French after WWI, Fournier takes me to
the project that will soon introduce Studio KO, until
now best known for private residences in Paris and the
Balmain boutique in Manhattan, to a broader public:
the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, opening in
October. Down the street from the Jardin Majorelle
and the adjoining Villa Oasis, the late designer’s sprawl-
ing private home, still owned by his longtime busi-
ness partner and lover, Pierre Bergé, 85, it is the perfect
embodiment of all that KO has brought to Marrakech.
While the garden, originally created by French painter
Jacques Majorelle and purchased (with the villa) in
a state of disrepair by Saint Laurent in 1980, is a col-
orful Moorish fantasia, the museum is all disciplined geometry; its massive,
rolled red-brick facade alludes to brutalism as well as the Bauhaus. Although the
40,000-square-foot space is still filled with workmen, Fournier sneaks me in to see
its spare interiors, including exhibition spaces for a revolving array of the more
than 20,000 articles of clothing and accessories from the designer’s vast collection.
Bergé has long been the architects’ patron saint. Fournier met him at a lunch in
the early aughts when the duo were starting out, having developed some proper-
ties in the north of the country for Patrick Guerrand-Hermès, scion of the legend-
ary leather-goods family. On the strength of that association, they were asked to
design a Marrakech house for Marella Agnelli. But it was their relationship with
Bergé that ultimately established them at the vanguard of the city’s new aesthetic.
The older man never forgot their meeting, after which Fournier had sent a letter
to thank him and Saint Laurent for being “out” role models to a younger genera-
tion of gay men. Bergé asked them to redo the guest quarters above Majorelle’s
studio, as well as a second home in Tangier. KO’s minimalism, he declared, was
the only kind he could abide. “Meeting him changed everything,” Fournier says.
Seeing Marrakech through the duo’s eyes includes a harrowing and exhila-
rating ride on a motorbike through the souk, with a stop at KO’s spartan offices
atop a 1920s building in Guéliz, as well as Galerie 127, a whitewashed loft space
below, where Parisian curator Nathalie Locatelli shows contemporary photog-
raphy by the likes of Carolle Bénitah. We also visit +Michi, a tiny shop buried in
a warren of alleyways, owned by Japanese designer Masayoshi Ishida, whose
neutral-toned riffs on Moroccan handicrafts are
striking in their simplicity—“beautiful in such an
essential way,” as Marty puts it. The two have just
returned from Japan, and that culture’s recasting
of traditional shapes has inspired a new project: collaborating on Marrakech’s first open-kitchen restaurant, coming next
year. “To Moroccans, cooking is women’s work, done out of sight,” Fournier
says. “But we are going to put these brilliant women in the middle of the
room so you can see their art.”
Glimpsing the fresh soul of Marrakech also means embracing the past,
Marty insists. And so they take me to dinner at Dar Rbaa Laroub, an obscure
riad deep in the medina. Its owner, Jean-Noël Schoeffer, a wiry, stylish 60-year-
old Frenchman who bought the place 30 years ago, is KO’s other patron saint;
the architects lived here part-time for their first three years in the city. We
feast on spicy lamb tagine, lit by countless candles and powered by a fierce
French rosé. Schoeffer tells stories of what they were like back then, how
eager, how in love with Marrakech and what it might become. Fournier
insists that even the tsunami of tours and development hasn’t changed the
city’s essential energy. “You have such a feeling of crossroads here, of toler-
A TERR ACE AT VILLA E.
ance and history. There is no other place in the Arab world like it,” he says. TO BOOK THE HOUSE, EMAIL
VILLAEBYKO@GMAIL.COM.
Three hours later, we are winding our way home through a dark and
silent part of the medina. Our footfalls are muffled on the packed earth. The
sand-colored walls of the passages are free of embellishment, defiantly simple.
“I know what you are thinking,” Marty says. “You are thinking that this is
very modern, this place, this moment. And you are very right.”

at home in
R
WHY STAY IN A
HOTEL WHEN
YOU CAN SPEND
YOUR ROMAN
HOLIDAY IN A
17TH-CENTURY
PALAZZO
DESIGNED BY
VATICAN ARTISTS
AND WITH ITS
OWN 21ST-CENTURY
PRINCESS?
by
M
SOPHY ROBERTS photographs by ROBERTA VALERIO
E
PREVIOUS SPREAD,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
THE BALLROOM’S PAINTED
CEILING DEPICTS A LION
PULLING A CHARIOT AND
THE ODESCALCHI PALACES
IN ITALY, FR ANCE, AND
HUNGARY; 18TH-CENTURY
MARQUETRY IN THE MASTER
BEDROOM REVEALS THE
FAMILY COAT OF ARMS; THE
DINING ROOM, WITH A
MUR ANO CHANDELIER;
THE CENTR AL COURTYARD
M
My husband wants to see the Colosseum. I leave him to it; I cannot bear the idea of tick-
ing off a tourist site when for two days we are living the ultimate like-a-local fantasy, as
residents in a private palace. I learned about this four-bedroom fiefdom, the Palazzo
Odescalchi, from a well-connected French friend who somehow gets to sleep in most
of the grand houses of Europe. It has just been converted into the finest rental in the
city, stuffed with 16th-century Flemish tapestries, ancient Greek black-figure vases, and
a painting of Saint Joseph by one of the stars of the Italian Baroque, Bernardo Strozzi.
I thought it might feel like staying in a museum, but no matter: After a month spent
researching a book in Arctic Siberia, I was in desperate need of sleep, and not about to
CONTAINS ROMAN STATUARY.
OPPOSITE: THE MASTER pass up an hour-long bath in a room clad with ancient Tuscan marble for the sake of a
BEDROOM, WITH ORIGINAL tourist bun-fight. I try every one of the elixirs arranged beside the tub on a silver salver—
ROCOCO-ER A GILDING.
Ortigia bath salts, Carthusia eau de parfum, Santa Maria Novella soaps—then lie in bed
all afternoon, snuggled up in a gilded room with Leo Tolstoy. Not until cocktail hour do
I emerge to see if my husband has returned from his excursion.
I look for him down the corridor that runs the length of the palace’s piano nobile, which
connects the five grand reception rooms with doors aligned in an enfilade. I wander
onto the main balcony—a Baroque extravagance designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini—
and watch a priest in a cassock run across the street below. My husband, it turns out,
has gone nowhere. I find him hanging out in bare feet on a scarlet velvet sofa, scanning
the Sonos music system while beside him stands a vase of blue delphiniums that graze
the hem of The Sitting Lady, a Van Dyck painting. My husband, who designs camping
meal kits, is an outdoorsman who spends half his year in a tent. He loathes anything that
smacks of grandeur. But Palazzo Odescalchi has a curious effect: It makes the traveler
feel at home, albeit in a fantastical parallel reality.
This is a feeling of intimacy at odds with the palace’s original designed effect, to impress
and intimidate plebeians like me. One of the most important private homes in the city,
Palazzo Odescalchi stands about a third of a mile from the so-called Umbilicus Mundi,
or “Navel of the World.” Under Imperial Rome, this was ground zero, the still point at
the center of the turning world from which all distances were measured. Fittingly, the
palazzo’s owners have always been at the heart of Roman society. Cardinal Flavio Chigi,
nephew to Pope Alexander VII, laid the foundations in the 17th century. The palazzo then
fell into the hands of the Odescalchis, who also had a pope in the family (Innocent XI).
The current owner, Princess Maria Pace Odescalchi, spent the last two years renovating
her inheritance, working with the city’s leading restorers and historians to continue the

family’s tradition of patronage and preservation. (She and her
husband, an Italian businessman, also own a castle in Bracciano,
where Tom Cruise married Katie Holmes in 2006.) No cost
was spared, with the installation of almost 1,100 square feet of
marble from ancient quarries, some 660 feet of Rubelli and San
Leucio silk damasks hung as window drapes, as well as central
air conditioning. “It was difficult to find the right line between
a museum and a home,” she told me later. “I needed to com-
bine serious works of art with the soul you find in objects that
remind you of family.” The Italian art historian Professor Paolo
Alei put it another way over a 10-euro pizza on my first eve-
ning in the city, citing the theory of luxury posited by Giovanni
Pontano, the 16th-century humanist philosopher. “Art must
be commensurate with your own wealth without breaking
the barriers of decorum,” Alei repeated. “A sense of propriety,
and appropriateness.”
Decorum. I like that word; it’s the restraint that saves money-
is-no-object spending from the pastiche of, say, Dubai. In the pal-
ace’s interiors, it shows up in playful subversion of Renaissance
scale through brightly stenciled walls that resemble embossed
leather or silk damask. “I wanted to pull the ceiling down toward
the floor, to use color so these huge rooms felt closer to jewel
boxes. It’s more nurturing this way,” Odescalchi told me. It’s in
details like the little silver dishes I find among the Meissen fig-
urines filled with Perugina Rossana bonbons, a favorite of the
princess’s grandmother. Then there is the food, created by the
family cook, Mary Ann. Every meal resembles a Renaissance
painting—garganelli pasta with saffron and zucchini flowers,
ravioli filled with fresh mozzarella, sea bass baked in parch-
ment—but doesn’t leave you stuffed.
This interplay—between grandeur and homiest detail, tech-
nology and history—is sewn together with such conviction,
the palace feels more embracing than any hotel I have stayed
in. The princess and her family live on another floor, out of
sight unless asked for, allowing us to believe that the palace
is ours, which my husband is getting better at by the minute.
He flicks the track to 50 Cent—he says he’s looking for the
album Get Rich or Die Tryin’—and cranks the volume, send-
ing tremors through the water of a marble fountain in the
Sala della Fontana. Odescalchi is thinking she might create
a Wunderkammer here, after Athanasius Kircher. This 17th-
century German Jesuit father, friend of the pope, Borromini,
and Galileo, amassed an extraordinary collection of worldly
souvenirs brought back to Italy by Jesuit missionaries: a stuffed
armadillo, magic lanterns, Egyptian obelisks. The original
Wunderkammer was located four blocks from the palace
and dismantled after Kircher’s death.
I don’t quite know what Wunderkammer means, but it doesn’t
matter. It has a poetry that describes this house—renovated to
perfection and instilled with noble decorum at the center of
a world most never get to see, much less live in, for a precious
few days.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: AN ANTIQUE SIDE
TABLE WITH HEIRLOOM GLASSES; THE GREEN
MARBLE IN THE MASTER BATH IS FROM GREECE AND
THE ALABASTER FROM EGYPT; THE MAIN BALCONY
OVERLOOKS LA BASILICA DEI SANTI XII APOSTOLI,
WHICH HOUSES THE ODESCALCHI BURIAL CHAPEL.

THE BALLROOM, WITH
FLOWERS CUT FROM
THE GARDENS AT THE
FAMILY’S CASTLE
BR ACCIANO.
115
F ind
yOur oWn
priVate
Palácio Belmonte, Lisbon Villa 7 at Singita Pamushana,
This 15th-century palace was renovated Malilangwe, Zimbabwe
palaZzo
by a man in espadrilles: French-born The African home of Paul Tudor-Jones
landscape collector Frederic Coustols. II, the philanthropist, conservationist,
His meticulous good taste has put and hedge fund billionaire (he is among
life and sunlight back into the palace’s the donors behind the Malilangwe
antique tiled walls, creating 11 suites Wildlife Reserve, on which the villa
that take in the city’s sweep of hills. I’ve stands). It sleeps 10, with exquisite
been twice, but would return in an furniture, African-print fabrics, a terrace
instant to sleep in one of the three tow- with a private pool, and vast floor-to-
ers. Belmonte might be missing cinema ceiling windows taking in soul-stirring
Ackergill Tower, rooms and the like, but no price can views of elephant, rhino, and endless
Scottish Highlands be put on the spirit of this place, a magi- wilderness. singita.com
Here you’ll find one of the most remote cal renovation borne of true custodian-
castles in northern Scotland—a 21- ship. palaciobelmonte.com Villa Cetinale, Tuscany
minute drive from John O’Groats, and An extravagance since its inception,
a 90-minute boat ride from the Orkney Real Alcázar, Seville Cetinale was built by papal bankers and
Islands. Interiors skew classic, some You could easily walk past this private was recently home to a British politi-
with four-posters festooned in country palace never knowing the exquisite life cian disgraced for smoking marijuana
fabrics, wallpapers, and antiques. All it hides within its 13th-century walls or in bed with two prostitutes. It’s now
of which give high-luxe warmth to the would you guess at the views from the in the hands of Edward Lambton, the
otherwise austere 15th-century tower, top floor, overlooking one of the King of Earl of Durham, a country and
which broods near the edge of a seven- Spain’s gardens. The family photos, of bluegrass musician who knows how
mile stretch of sand. Under a sea fret long-legged daughters and polo-playing to throw a party. He’s done up the
in autumn, this is about as moody as the sons, speak of the blue blood running 13 bedrooms with soft, raw-edged linen
Scottish Highlands get. They rent out through the veins of this house—a fam- drapes and put in place a staff who
the tower by room, but this castle is best ily tree leading back to the House of whip up fresh peach cakes for breakfast.
taken in its entirety for the mother of all Bourbon. The interior details—butterfly A very, very precious house with a
house parties. ackergilltower.com collections pinned beneath glass high-repeat clientele and one of the best
tables, embroidered linen, balconies gardens in Europe. villacetinale.com
Lismore Castle, Lismore, Ireland decked with jasmine—are exquisite.
This castle on Ireland’s Blackwater River uniquepropertiesandevents.com How to Rent Palazzo Odescalchi
has been a refuge for high-profile royals, This palace is available on request
rock stars, and malcontents since 1185. Stok Palace Heritage Hotel, by emailing info@uniquepropertiesand
When the Duke of Devonshire’s family is Leh, India events.com. It’s staffed by a butler and
not in residence, all 15 bedrooms can It sells itself as a hotel, but I think Stok maid, and further concierge services (at
be rented. Denis Nevin, Lismore’s butler Palace is better used as a private house extra cost) can incorporate tours of
for 35 years, is a walking history book by a single family. It’s a pinprick of the city and surroundings led by personal
with an Irishman’s wit. There’s an Antony aristocratic history in the high-altitude contacts of the owner, Princess Maria
Gormley in the garden, and a smatter- Indian Himalayan region of Ladakh, Pace Odescalchi. They include academics
ing of Van Dycks and Ai Weiweis in the near the city of Leh with its Buddhist in art and architecture, fashion designers,
house. I adored the scruffy copies of stupas and red-robed monks. There and experts on Italian cuisine, wine,
Vogue from the 1930s lying in piles beside are six suites, furnished with brightly and gardens. The advantage of staying
the tubs and notes inscribed inside painted frescoes and woodwork and here is access to an elite black book,
books—including one from Evelyn Tibetan and Ladakhi rugs. The family of and even tables at the family’s favorite
Waugh to the late Deborah, Duchess of His Excellency King Jigmed Wangchuk restaurants. S . R .
Devonshire. lismorecastle.com Namgyal—an affable host and knowl-
edgeable expert on the region—still live
here, often in residence at the same
time as guests. stokpalaceheritage.com
THE MASTER DRESSING

ROOM HAS HIDDEN STAIRS
TO TWO BEDROOMS AND
A BOOK-FILLED MEZZANINE.

Intel
O U R T R AV E L A GUIDE
TIPS, TRICKS, AND T O T R AV E L I N G B E T T E R
MISCELLANY THIS MONTH
GOOD NEWS
The Department of
Homeland Security is phas-
ing out its confusing laptop
ban on flights into the
U.S. Secretary John Kelly
said that hundreds of
airports worldwide would
implement “enhanced
screening” instead, includ-
ing closer examination
of electronics for explosives.
So commence carrying on
your computers and tablets
on flights from Middle
Eastern hubs like Abu Dhabi,
Doha, and Dubai, and con-
sider it a win for the little guy.
BAD NEWS
In June, President Trump
signed a memorandum
that will effectively “end indi-
vidual, self-reported travel”
Everything Under One Zillion-Dollar Roof
The suburban shopping center is as good as dead, but there are a handful of malls popping up around the
to Cuba, says Jennine Cohen
of the travel company world that serve as futuristic piazze where locals and visitors actually want to hang out.
GeoEx. That means no more
Airbnb or do-it-yourself
Brickell City Centre Central Embassy HKRI Taikoo Hui Westfield World
flight bookings, unless you’re Trade Center
visiting under very narrow
categories like missionary Southeast Asia is packed Shanghai first-timers hit the
work or academic research. Miami Beach has Art Deco, This marble-floored
with boxy, AC-blasted Bund, but this massive
But you can go with an Wynwood, its walls of mall’s network of spotless
superstores, but this sinu- Jing’an District project—with
street art. Now the once- corridors and vaulted
THE BIG
operator like InsightCuba, ous Bangkok newcomer three hotels, 250 stores,
IDEA
GeoEx, or Trafalgar, bland Brickell is popping indoor spaces looks like

by AL_A architects (above 45 restaurants, and nearly
which run still-permitted with this Arquitectonica- something out of
right) raises the design 2 million square feet of office
people-to-people trips. designed cluster of 2001: A Space Odyssey—
bar with an aluminum-clad space—will cement the
towers and plazas near the and nothing like the
facade that recalls Mexico nabe’s rep as the city’s busi-
Miami River. rest of lower Manhattan.
City’s Museo Soumaya. ness-and-dining hub.
UNBELIEVABLE NEWS
INVESTMENT
$1.05 $533 $2.5 $1.4

Three-hour flights between
From left: Photographs by Caleb Bennett; Matt Hranek
New York and Paris may

THE
soon be a thing: The start-up

jetmaker Boom hasn’t yet billion million billion billion
built a working version of its
55-passenger plane, but at
Check in at the Middle
least five major airlines have Order that wood- Lunch at the tidy indoor Marvel at The Oculus,
House, opening this winter,
put down nonrefundable grilled red snapper at the hawker center, with Santiago Calatrava’s
MUST
with sleek interiors

DO
deposits to help finance a not-overhyped Quinto Thai street-food standbys cathedral-like transit hub
by Piero Lissoni (who’s also
supersonic prototype, says la Huella, inside the East, like turmeric fried fish (above left) that’s topped
doing an Edition hotel
CEO Blake Scholl. If 2018 Miami hotel here. and tom yum noodle soup. by swooping steel “wings.”
in Milan).
test flights go well, we’ll soon
do L.A. to Tokyo in five
SHOULD
hours, or Miami to Buenos Hit East’s sceney pool Grab a rum-and-mango Take a breather. This Go to the Eataly! It’s way less
DO
Aires in four. This jet deck that’s as good as any cocktail at the in-house Park indoor city is a balm for the crowded than the one
can’t get here fast enough. on Collins Avenue. Hyatt Bangkok. frenetic streets outside. near Madison Square Park.

THIS THING I DO
HOW ONE EXPERT GOT Ombudsman 148,000 Miles
THE ULTIMATE
UNTOURISTY TOUR Read This Before Logged in the Last Year
Travel specialist Richard You Buy Mike DeFrino, CEO of Kimpton
Hotels and Restaurants,
Bruce Turen of Churchill
& Turen enlisted an Travel Insurance does hotel recon after hours.
unlikely guide in New Most travel experts I JUDGE A HOTEL BY what’s going on in the
Orleans: “I hired an advise that you “read the lobby. Is it a place people actually
EVEN MORE fine print” before buying
off-duty cop to show me want to hang out in? And I like to see
“FLOATELS” ARE
around,” he says. “I DROPPING ANCHOR a policy, but it’s surpris- what’s cookin’ at night. Lots of
walked into a station in ingly difficult to actually hotels go through a sort of sunset meta-
Ritz-Carlton plans to launch
the French Quarter, its first cruise ship in 2019, get your hands on this morphosis, where they’ll adjust the
asked the desk sergeant a 298-passenger yacht that text without paying for lighting and switch up the music. They
if anyone would be will be small enough to coverage first—seriously, seem to take on a different character.
hit ports like Capri and
interested, and agreed Portofino that major lines we’ve tried. Beat the
with another sergeant don’t often visit. Every system by using a com- THE IDEAL HOTEL ROOM HAS enough space to
that we’d do a two- cabin will have a balcony, the parison shopping spread out in, but not so much that
onboard spa will be aces,
hour tour for $100. We and chef Sven Elverfeld, who tool like InsuremyTrip, I lose things. That’s why I don’t like
stopped at Lil Dizzy’s earned three Michelin SquareMouth, or a suite. Superfast Internet is a must.
Cafe, his favorite for fried stars at Aqua in Wolfsburg, TripInsuranceStore that
Germany, will head up
chicken and gumbo, the galley. lets you examine the WHENEVER I FLY I always book coach and
then Blue Dot Donuts, legally binding details I never check a bag, regardless of how
and drove through before you click “buy.” many nights I’m away.
neighborhoods like Little
Woods. I never would’ve THERE’S A NEW MY FAVORITE CITY IN THE WORLD IS Miami.
known about it if I wasn’t SHAKE SHACK AT LAX Even when I’m there for work, I have
with him. He talked If you’re departing from a little bit of a vacation attitude.
about the unemployment anywhere within It doesn’t feel right to visit without
and poverty there, and walking distance of Gate jumping in the ocean at least once.
I couldn’t believe tourists 34 in Terminal 3, grab
were partying just a
THE SORT OF AIRPORT one of those stupidly deli- NO MATTER HOW MUCH I TRAVEL I have a
mile away. When we drove SHOP WE’D LOVE cious sausage, egg, and sort of personal contract with my
past the mansions TO SEE MORE OF cheese sandwiches. Diet family that says I’ll always be home
along St. Charles Avenue, Cult-fave jewelry designer starts tomorrow. for dinner on Friday night.
he said, ‘Don’t fool Miansai has popped up at
JFK and O’Hare, selling the
yourself. We come out I NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT my cashmere beanie.
brand’s signature shackle-
here to bust someone like bangles and delicate It’s warm—and I can always pull it down
every now and then.’ ” gold-chain necklaces from over my eyes when I want to doze off.
the back of vintage
Piaggio Ape scooters.
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postage paid at New York, New York, and at additional mailing further obligation unless we receive a corrected address list available to carefully screened companies that offer TRAVELER IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND
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120 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 illustrations by DENISE NESTOR

ROOM WITH A VIEW 09.17
Room 8 I arrived in Cinque Terre in July without a booking and spent hours
Submit your
Photograph by Lucy Laucht
knocking on doors, desperate for a vacancy. I was about to give up when

Albergo Barbara the signora behind the sixth door I tried said she had one spot left. The
#roomwithaview
photo and
V E R N A Z Z A , I TA LY
room was spare, but that view of the Ligurian mountains, with the sounds dm @cntraveler.
from the aperitivo carrying up to the window, was magic. It turned what
should have been a one night stay into five—and I never once closed those
shutters. L U C Y L A U C H T

Conde Nast Traveler USA September 2017

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TRUTH IN TRAVEL SEPTEMBER 2017

The enﬁlade at the Palazzo

10 Condé Nast Traveler photograph by ROBERTA VALER IO

What I Pack Checking In Hometown

Clockwise from top: Courtesy of Sulwhasoo; Matt Hranek; Adrian Gaut

Room with a View

12 Condé Nast Traveler

Christopher Bagley Christa Guerra Jessica Chrastil

Talk to Us Subscribe Leave It to the

14 Condé Nast Traveler

Our ﬁrst cover, in September 1987,

is the way in which walking into a medieval hill-

Age of Experience in pursuit of that church in the ﬁrst place was a

16 Condé Nast Traveler

The Chicago Theatre,

Chicago Culture Fix Waiheke by spending Wednesday sipping

18 Condé Nast Traveler

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Yolanda Edwards

NEWS AND FEATURES DESIGN DIGITAL CONTRIBUTORS

20 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

photograph by MATT HR ANEK Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 23

best seafood restaurant in Sweden,” she says.

UNDER THE Gothenburg (her family moved to Sweden from

24 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

From left: Cartier boutiques nationwide; tiffany.com; johnhardy.com; davidyurman.com; gucci.com

26 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photograph by MATT HR ANEK

IN THE SUMMER, BUT IN THE

“I’m a geography nerd,” says New York–

Tell us about your scarf. It’s a kuta from

What’s the most underrated shopping

GQ STYLE FASHION What other markets do you love?

We hear you have quite a magnet

15 years! My refrigerator is bananas.

30 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photograph by DEWEY NICKS

Old-world sophistication. That

Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton d’Or

32 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

photograph by MATT HR ANEK Condé Nast Traveler 41

From left: A standard double

It’s All in the Name

42 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photographs by ADR IAN GAUT

Left: Chez Georges, in

Modernist Cool in Japan

When looking to buy a cabin in the Nagano

From left: Courtesy of Design Hotels; courtesy of House of Finn Juhl

44 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

48 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 photograph by LENNART WEIBULL

50 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

SI NSA-D ONG C H EONGDA M-D ONG

3CE Cinema Chaum

the States, like peach-blossom per- Anthracite

ing. For something more traditional, sprays from this home-fragrance

Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17 51

A view of Villa del

From the Water stuﬀy. I’ll have a fresh

around every corner with la dolce vita, Riva is continually nudging

52 Condé Nast Traveler / 09.17

When our ﬁrst issue hit newsstands, in September

Condé Nast Traveler 55

TRIPS YOU THOUGHT WERE

Recently I found myself with some free time after a business

Camp at the South Pole streets before catching a 2.5-

56 Condé Nast Traveler

ANYWHERE THEN and NOW