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Steps For The Production of Tricycloacetone Peroxide For The Amateur Chemist
Steps For The Production of Tricycloacetone Peroxide For The Amateur Chemist
Table of Contents
Foreword and Introduction to Legal and Safety Acetone Peroxide Production Process Chemical Notes (Reactant Information) Production Notes, 1st Batch
Acetone Peroxide
Acetone Peroxide is an adiabatic, entropic high explosive. This means that it does not transfer significant amounts of heat to its surroundings during detonation, it is a reaction driven by natures tendency towards entropy and it is a compound that decomposes at a speed faster than sound. It is literally acetone molecules bonded to each other by peroxide bonds. For more details on this bond (and a lot more useful information, although at a college level) I recommend Decomposition of Triacetone Triperoxide is an Entropic Explosion (Dubnikova, Kosloff, Almog, Zeiri, Boese, Itzhaky, Alt, Keinan) and Decomposition of a Multi-Peroxidic Compound: Triacetone Triperoxide (TATP) (Oxley, Smith, Chen). The acetones can bond to each other in two main ways, as a dimer and as a trimer (as 2 acetones and as 3). They are both explosive, however the dimer version is by far the more sensitive. This is why this process strives to achieve the trimer version (hence the triacetone triperoxide). Acetone peroxide has an RE factor of .83. This means that it detonates at 83% of the velocity of TNT. For a homemade explosive, this is not bad at all. However, it is rather unstable. It is very heat, friction and shock sensitive. The exact sensitivity depends on the ratio of dimer: trimer that is produced in your specific batch, so always handle with great care. It is also completely insoluble in water so the only effective method of destruction is detonation. Therefore I do not recommend making it without great care and planning. It has a shelf life of approximately 1 week in my research. I believe this is due to decomposition into its dimer form. I found nothing to indicate any danger of spontaneous detonation after a certain amount of time, it simply becomes more sensitive, which I highly recommend you avoid. It should not be harmful to the environment in any way except for the explosive hazard.
MAKE ALL MOVEMENTS SLOW AND STEADY WITH NO SUDDEN MOVEMENTS WHATSOEVER. KEEP ALL AMOUNTS SMALL AND BELOW CRITICAL MASS WHEN CRUSHING. NEVER SHAKE AND AVOID BUMPING.
Chemical Notes
Acetone: Acetone is a polar organic solvent. It can dissolve most of what you can think of so keep away from paint and such. Much like other organic solvents, it has a very low boiling point and is thus volatile, meaning it has a high vapor pressure (gives off vapor). This is why it says use in a ventilated area. Its vapors are also flammable. The safety is relatively simple. Just dont huff the fumes and dont light a match around it. Hydrogen Peroxide: Hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidizer. In household production it is mixed in 3% solutions. In stronger solutions it will accelerate burn rates exponentially. Its decomposition can also be catalyzed by just about any metal producing extremely hot steam. This application has actually been harnessed in some rocket pack designs. I do not recommend trying to purify the hydrogen peroxide unless you know how to safely handle it, although it will give this reaction a higher yield for its volume (hydrogen peroxide is by far the limiting reactant). As an oxidizer, it may bleach clothes and even fingers. When I used this chemical, my fingers turned white when exposed to this chemical. Do not be afraid if this happens (although it is a rare occurrence, from my research), it is simply bleaching pigment from your skin. No harm was done. Again, keep fire away from the hydrogen peroxide. Also, keep metal away from it. Hydrochloric Acid: This is a strong acid. While acids are not as deadly as pop culture would have you believe, they are extremely dangerous. For reference, I placed a drop of 5 M hydrochloric acid on my hand. Pain and redness were observed beginning 30 seconds after exposure. No bleeding occurred after 1 minute. Hardware Muriatic acid is a 5.5 M solution. Do not spill on countertops, etc as it will burn through. Always use glass or plastic (even pop bottle plastic will contain it). Be ready with water, as dilution is the most effective method of neutralization. Baking soda, a base, can also neutralize but will fizz.