Free Crochet Pattern - The "Big Hug" Hooded Cowl Scarf - Spoons & Hooks

11/15/22, 5:06 PM Free crochet pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf | Spoons & Hooks
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Free crochet pattern: The “big

hug” hooded cowl scarf
JANUARY 24, 2021FEBRUARY 12, 2022 / NINA

To purchase a printable, ad-free version of this pattern with a stitch count
chart for just $2.50, https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-big-
hug-hooded-cowl-scarf (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-big-
hug-hooded-cowl-scarf).
Maybe it’s because 2020 was such a very challenging year, but
nearly everything I’ve been making lately has been the crochet
version of a hug.
This hooded cowl scarf is definitely in that category. I took my two-

in-one bandana cowl pattern
(https://spoonsandhooks.com/2017/11/24/free-crochet-pattern-two-
in-one-bandana-cowl/) and super-sized it, making the cowl long
enough and wide enough to pull over the head as a hood, and
making the “bandana” section into a big triangle scarf that’s wide
enough to drape over the shoulders.
https://spoonsandhooks.com/2021/01/24/free-crochet-pattern-big-hug-hooded-cowl-scarf/ 1/12
My hooded cowl scarf pattern…
(https://spoonsandhooks.com/2017/11/24/free-crochet-pattern-two-
in-one-bandana-cowl/)
…is a super-sized version of my two-in-one bandana cowl pattern.
The garment shown required one and a half Caron Cakes from the
Lovely Layers Collection. I used the colorway “Sugar Plums.” Two
regular Caron Cakes would also work.
Pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl

scarf
This pattern is worked from the top down in the round. It starts as a
straight tube for the cowl/hood section, from which the scarf section
flows naturally simply by adding an increase in the center front.
Materials needed
2 Caron Cakes (or equivalent yardage of a weight 4 yarn of your

choice)
Size J crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Yarn needle
Stitch markers (can also use safety pins)
Stitches used
Chain stitch (ch)

Half-double crochet (hdc)
Half-double crochet front loop only (hdc flo)
Half-double crochet back loop only (hdc blo)
Bobbles (described in Round 8, below)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Stitch sequence for texture
The texture is created by repeating the eight rounds described

below.
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When working odd-numbered rounds, the right side is facing;

when working even-numbered rounds, the wrong side is facing.
Note: To avoid a gap where rounds are joined in the back, the
turning chain is not counted as a stitch in all rounds except Round 4
(spaced hdc). Therefore, the first stitch in each round is worked in
the same stitch as the turning chain in Rounds 1-3 and 5-8. I find it
helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch, so that at the end
of the round I remember where to join.
Round 1 – hdc, through both loops
ch 1 very loosely, turn;
hdc in base of ch-1 and in each st around;
join with sl st in top of first hdc.
Round 2 – hdc in front loop only (flo) – forms single-line ridge on

right side
hdc flo in base of ch-1 (place stitch marker) and in each st around;
Round 3 – hdc in back loop only (blo) – forms chain-like line on

right side
hdc blo in base of ch-1 (place stitch marker) and in each st around;
Round 4 – spaced hdc, through both loops
ch 2 (counts as 1st st + ch-1 – it may help to place a stitch marker in

2nd ch);
*(skip 1 st, hdc in next st, ch 1) around;
skip last st, join with sl st in 2nd ch.
Round 5: repeat Round 1.
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Round 8 – bobbles, through both loops
ch 2, turn;
small bobble – worked 1 time, next to ch-2
[yarn over (yo), insert hook in base of ch-2, yo, pull up a loop, yo,
pull through first 2 loops on hook] 2 times;
yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook;
ch 1, skip next st;
regular bobble – worked for remainder of round
[yarn over (yo), insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull
through first 2 loops on hook] 3 times;
yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook;
ch 1, skip next st;
at end of round, join with sl st in top of first, small bobble.
Gauge
For the garment shown, the gauge for a 4.5″ square is 13 stitches of
the 8 stitch sequences described above. However, gauge is less
important than achieving the dimensions needed for the size
desired.
Size
This garment is meant to be loose and drapey, so sizing is forgiving.

The garment shown fits up to women’s size Large. The dimensions
are as follows:
Cowl/hood opening – 28″ circumference (14″ per side when laid

flat)
Cowl/hood length – 15″
Total length of garment, top to bottom – 28″
To ensure the scarf section will drape over the shoulders instead of
just in the front, it’s important to measure it as shown below,
excluding the point of the scarf. This measurement should be at
least a couple inches larger than the measurement around the
shoulders of the wearer.
To adjust the circumference of the cowl/hood, increase or decrease

the length of your starting chain, keeping the total number of chains
a multiple of 4.
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To adjust the length of the cowl/hood, adjust the number of rounds

worked before you begin the front increase in the scarf section.
To adjust the size of the scarf section, and whether or not it drapes
over the shoulders or just drapes in front, adjust the number of
rounds worked before you finish off.
Keep in mind that if you make this pattern larger than the garment
shown, you may need additional yarn.
Directions
These directions will make the garment in the size shown above.
Cowl/hood section
Ch 80; join with sl st to form loop.
Note: The starting chain must be a multiple of 4.
Work Round 1 in the single bottom loop of each chain. This allows
the double top loops to form a clean edge around the top edge of
the cowl/hood. (80 st.)
Continuing with Round 2, repeat the sequence of Rounds 1-8 until

30 rounds are completed. The 30th round will be Round 6 in the
sequence. (Each round = 80 st.)
Scarf section
The scarf flows directly from the cowl/hood. It is started by working

a ch-2 space at the midpoint of the round, then working an increase
of 4 stitches in the ch-2 space of all subsequent rounds.
Continuing the sequence with Round 7, work the first 40 st, ch 2,

then work the remaining 40 st. (80 st + ch-2 space.)
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Then continuing with Round 8, work 23 more rounds, with an

increase of 4 stitches in each ch-2 space as described below:
For Rounds 1-7, work 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch-2 space.

For Round 8 (bobble round), increases are worked as two
bobbles in the ch-2 space:
work first bobble, ch 3 (counts as ch 1 + ch-2 space); work second

bobble, ch 1.
Note: After working the two bobbles in the increase, don’t forget to skip
the next stitch before working the next bobble on the side.
Tip: I find it helpful to place stitch markers in the last stitch before
the ch-2 space and the first stitch after. For the bobble round, this
means putting the first stitch marker in the first chain after the first
bobble, and the second stitch marker in the second bobble.
The 23rd round will be Round 5 in the sequence. (168 st + ch-2

space.)
End with Round 6, working 5 hdc in the ch-2 space instead of the
regular increase, to close the space. (173 st.)
Optional: Picots
Picots can be a nice way to add ornamentation to the bottom edge

of this garment, but are entirely optional.
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With right side facing, work a round of single crochet (sc) around
the bottom edge. In each place a picot is desired, ch 2 then work sl
st in the front loop of the sc just worked.
Note: You want your picots to be spaced out evenly from the front point of
the bandana, so I recommend that before starting this round, count back
from the point on each side and place stitch markers where picots are
desired.
Finishing
Here’s how to work an invisible finish (http://The invisible finish

when crocheting in the round) on the bottom edge with no
detectable beginning or end.
If you use this pattern…
I would love to see any items made from this pattern! You can email
photos to spoonsandhooks@gmail.com
(mailto:spoonsandhooks@gmail.com). (Note: I’ll assume that
sending me photos gives me permission to share them on the
Spoons & Hooks site and social media — crediting you, of course —
unless you specifically instruct me otherwise.)
Do you have any questions about this pattern? If so, ask them in the
comments section, and I’ll do my best to respond promptly.
You are free to gift, donate or sell for profit any items you make from this
pattern. I ask only that if you sell items made from any of my patterns, as a
courtesy you reference spoonsandhooks.com as the pattern’s source.
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Hooks, My Crochet Patterns
COWL , CROCHET , FEATURED , FREE ,
HOOD , PATTERN , SCARF
2 thoughts on “Free crochet pattern:

The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf”
1. Olga
SEPTEMBER 24, 2021 AT 9:09 PM
Hi I have a question. On row one it says to hdc and whatnot. But
it doesn’t say how many starting chains to me.
REPLY
Nina
SEPTEMBER 25, 2021 AT 8:34 AM
Olga – Scroll down to where it says:
Cowl/hood section
Ch 80; join with sl st to form loop.
Note: The starting chain must be a multiple of 4.
REPLY
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11/15/22, 5:06 PM Free crochet pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl scarf | Spoons & Hooks

Buying One Isn't Illegal, but

Free crochet pattern: The “big

JANUARY 24, 2021FEBRUARY 12, 2022 / NINA

This hooded cowl scarf is definitely in that category. I took my two-

My hooded cowl scarf pattern…

Pattern: The “big hug” hooded cowl

2 Caron Cakes (or equivalent yardage of a weight 4 yarn of your

Chain stitch (ch)

Stitch sequence for texture

The texture is created by repeating the eight rounds described

When working odd-numbered rounds, the right side is facing;

Round 1 – hdc, through both loops

ch 1 very loosely, turn;

hdc in base of ch-1 and in each st around;

join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 2 – hdc in front loop only (flo) – forms single-line ridge on

ch 1 very loosely, turn;

join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 3 – hdc in back loop only (blo) – forms chain-like line on

ch 1 very loosely, turn;

join with sl st in top of first hdc.

Round 4 – spaced hdc, through both loops

ch 2 (counts as 1st st + ch-1 – it may help to place a stitch marker in

*(skip 1 st, hdc in next st, ch 1) around;

skip last st, join with sl st in 2nd ch.

Round 5: repeat Round 1.

Round 6: repeat Round 2.

Round 7: repeat Round 3.

Round 8 – bobbles, through both loops

small bobble – worked 1 time, next to ch-2

yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook;

ch 1, skip next st;

regular bobble – worked for remainder of round

yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook;

ch 1, skip next st;

at end of round, join with sl st in top of first, small bobble.

This garment is meant to be loose and drapey, so sizing is forgiving.

Cowl/hood opening – 28″ circumference (14″ per side when laid

To adjust the circumference of the cowl/hood, increase or decrease

To adjust the length of the cowl/hood, adjust the number of rounds

Ch 80; join with sl st to form loop.

Note: The starting chain must be a multiple of 4.

Continuing with Round 2, repeat the sequence of Rounds 1-8 until

The scarf flows directly from the cowl/hood. It is started by working

Continuing the sequence with Round 7, work the first 40 st, ch 2,

Then continuing with Round 8, work 23 more rounds, with an

For Rounds 1-7, work 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc in the ch-2 space.

work first bobble, ch 3 (counts as ch 1 + ch-2 space); work second

The 23rd round will be Round 5 in the sequence. (168 st + ch-2

Picots can be a nice way to add ornamentation to the bottom edge

Here’s how to work an invisible finish (http://The invisible finish

If you use this pattern…

2 thoughts on “Free crochet pattern:

Ch 80; join with sl st to form loop.

Note: The starting chain must be a multiple of 4.

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