1997 TO 2002 BOXSTER CONVERTIBLE TOP CONVERSION

TO 2003-2004 OEM GLASS WINDOWED SOFT TOP

Copyright 8 2009 Maurice P. Fedida

I=m fairly clueless when it comes to electric matters in a car, so I have to

give credit to Boxsterra and Disraeli of PPBB.com, and to Atta of RennTech.org
for their invaluable help in sorting out the electrics and making it work like
Afactory@. Boxtaboy also gets credit for his infectious optimism, resourcefulness
and useful hints and tips. I have tried to make this DIY as thorough as possible
so that even someone with limited DIY skills will be able to follow all of the
steps and accomplish this modification.

The estimates for the prices of parts listed are as of this writing (Sep >09). Of
course, as an attorney, I don=t guarantee the results, and if you decide to use
this guide, you do so at your own risk!

The advantages of installing an >03 or >04 OEM glass-windowed top onto an

earlier Boxster are many and substantive, the disadvantages are few and
subjective.

The perceived advantages include:

1. With a glass-windowed top, you never even need to look back in your rear view
mirror to see how the top is folding anymore. To quote Boxtaboy: AIt's
grrrrreat!!@

2. You can put the top down in any temperature without concern for cracking the
vinyl window, so it can greatly extend your top-down season. There=s something
special about driving with the top down and the heater on. How many times have
you wished you could put your top down when temperatures were in the low 60's but
you had that nagging feeling that your window might crack? No more such worries
with a glass window.

3. No need to get out to do the Achop@ to make sure the window is folding without
creases.

4. The clarity of the glass does not degrade over time.

5. It=s much more updated and clean looking. The plastic reminds some of us of a
shower curtain, and makes the car look dated. Convertibles these days, from Ford
Mustangs to Chrysler Sebrings to Mazda Miatas come standard with glass.

6. It has an interior liner that makes the interior feel more like you have a
hardtop on the car with more sound and heat insulation.

7. It has a factory heated rear window for defrosting which plugs right into the
defroster connector which is pre-wired on all Boxsters.

8. It=s also less likely to be slashed by vandals.

9. True, the 03/04 window is a bit smaller than the plastic window, but larger
than the GAHH or Robbins window. The aftermarket units must necessarily be

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smaller so as to allow the top to fold without the benefit of the 4th bow. That
design puts a great deal of stress on the glass window, which is why the initial
batches of the GAHH and Robbins glass-windowed tops had problems with their
windows separating from the canvas. The OEM glass-window also does not restrict
access to the engine compartment as much as the glass-windowed aftermarket tops
because the OEM top has a 4th rib in the frame which allows the window to
completely tilt up and out of the way when you put the top in the service
position. Also, as an added bonus in the OEM version, you get the letters
APORSCHE@ etched into the lower center portion of the glass window and you get a
built-in strap sewn into the underside of the rear main bow for holding the rear
of the top frame up and out of the way for easier access to the engine.

10. And finally, you never need to polish or worry about the plastic cracking,
and unlike some of the aftermarket glass tops, there is no concern that it will
separate at the stitch seams.

The perceived disadvantages include the following:

1. Some don't like the side profile of the 4-bow frame that supports he 03/04
OEM tops, and prefer the profile of the original 3-bow top with the vinyl window.

2. The OEM glass-windowed top is slightly heavier because of the glass window
and the addition of the roof liner, which did not exist on the earlier 986's.

3. The OEM glass window is slightly smaller than the vinyl window.

4. The car is not Acorrect@ according to purists.

Here are the before and after photos along with some photos of the GAHH top
installed by ddb of 986forum.com, so that you can judge for yourself whether this
mod is for you:

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 GAHH GLASS WINDOWED TOP

GAHH GLASS WINDOWED TOP

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 For me, it=s something I have wanted to do since I first realized that it
was a Asimple@ bolt-on installation. The length of this DIY guide belies the
simplicity of the project, which will be evident once you have completed it.

While a brand new OEM top and frame assembly would be prohibitively
expensive for many considering this option, reasonable examples in good condition
can be obtained from those parting out their 03/04 Boxsters when they are setting
up a dedicated track car or from dismantlers. I have seen prices ranging from
about $750 to about $2500 at various dismantlers for a used glass top in good
condition. You can go to Acar-part.com@, and select 03 Boxster or 04 Boxster, and
where it asks you what part you are looking for, type in the word "ROOF", and
then in the next screen, check off "soft top, roof". It will then show you all
the available 03 or 04 tops (either with the frame or not), and each dismantler's
asking price. There is also a descriptor for the condition of the top, as
evaluated by the dismantler.

Unlike an aftermarket teardown and replacement of the canvas part of the

top, which, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the most difficult, I would rate
at about an 8, the replacement of the complete top and frame assembly is only
about a 3 or 4. If you add on the electrical part, which is only required if you
are doing the installation onto a >97 to >99 Boxster, that will only raise the
difficulty level to about a 5 or 6, depending on your electrical and soldering
skills. If you have never done any of these before, count on about 8 to 10 hours
for the first task (covered in another section of Mike Focke=s website), compared
to about 2 to 3 hours for the removal and replacement of the complete top and
frame assembly, and add on about 2 to 3 hours for the wiring, if necessary.

There are three distinct parts to converting the earlier vinyl windowed tops
to the OEM glass windowed tops: the mechanical aspect of the replacement of the
complete top and frame assembly and two parts of the mechanical installation of
the new transmissions and the electrical rewiring and modification, when needed
or desired.

You will only need to deal with the electrical part of this conversion if
you are fitting an OEM glass windowed top and frame assembly onto either a >97,
>98, or >99 Boxster and then only if you decide to install the later-style AB
Version@ transmissions, parts and relay. The electrical wiring in the latter case
will involve work near the driver=s side transmission, near the driver=s side of
the electric motor, and behind the relay tray.

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> 97 to > 99 AA Version @ Transmission

> 00 to ‘04 AB Version @ transmission

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 You can install an >03 or >04 glass windowed top on any of the earlier 986
Boxsters (1997-2002), which all came with a vinyl rear window from the factory.
If you plan on installing one on a 1997 to 1999 Boxster, and want the more
reliable operating system, then you will also have to replace the AA Version@
transmissions, mounting studs, cables, and double relay, as well as doing some
rewiring in the areas briefly described above.

Note that if you don=t want to do any rewiring on your early Boxster (>97 to
>99), you can still install the OEM glass-windowed top and keep the old AA Version@
system which includes the less reliable Ahalf-moon gear@ transmissions, the non-
crosshatched cables (i.e., prone to stretching), the AB-Pillar microswitch@, the
lever microswitch on top of the electric motor and the old AA Version@ relay. As
a final variation, the newer AB Version@ transmissions can also be made to work
with the early electric components (i.e., B-Pillar and lever microswitches and
old double relay). The electric motor remains the same on all versions.

Boxtaboy and I did an OEM 2003 glass top conversion onto his 2001 Boxster a
couple of months ago and it went smoothly because there were no wiring or other
modifications to make. There were a few adjustments required after the
installation but they were easily solved. So, for model years 2000 to 2002,
bolting in an 03/04 OEM top and frame is pretty much a plug and play operation
that requires no re-wiring whatsoever.

The AA Version@ setup uses a AB-Pillar@ microswitch and a lever microswitch

that is actuated by the closing and opening of the clamshell. That small black
lever is located on top of the electric motor housing (under the clamshell, rear
edge, center, just ahead of the third brake light, in the convertible top well).

B-pillar Microswitch

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 Lever Microswitch on top of electric motor

These two microswitches tell the double relay (located in the driver=s side
left kick-panel, above the fuse panel) when to turn off the power to the electric
motor depending on the position of the top and clamshell, and simultaneously when
to turn the Aconvertible top open@ idiot light on the dashboard on and off. This
system also uses an Aafter-running time@ via the relay for about 1 or 2 seconds
after the lever is depressed to continue to tighten down the clamshell before
power to the motor is cut off. If your top is completely open and you press the
switch with the windows up, the windows will also drop the requisite 4 inches as
soon as you press the switch.

In the B Version, those two microswitches were moved into a neat little
housing integrated into the front of the driver=s side convertible top
transmission, and the double relay was also Aupdated@. Note that the factory
manual states that these microswitches were moved to the passenger side
transmission, but that is not correct. In this system, there is no after-running
time and the signal to shut off the electric motor (and the idiot light) is
obtained directly from trigger points on the newer design 360 degree transmission
gear. This is in contrast to the 50 tooth Ahalf-moon gear@ on the A version
transmissions, which relies on the positions of the B-Pillar frame and on the
clamshell as the triggers.

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 Inside of “A Version” Transmission
One of the familiar weaknesses of the early system manifests itself when one or
both of the V-levers over-rotate past the 50th tooth on the half-moon gear and is
or are then snapped back (with a sharp, loud snap) by the force of the large
spring inside the black Ahydraulic@ pushrods. This, along with the sometimes
problematic Aafter-running time@, are eliminated by the new design.

Inside of B-Version AStehle @ brand transmission

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 The following parts will be needed for these conversions:

A. If you are installing your new top onto a 2000 or later 986, then you will
need:

1. One (1) OEM glass-windowed convertible top and frame assembly from an >03 or
>04 986.

B. If you are installing your new top onto a 1999 or earlier 986, and you want
to install the more reliable set-up, then you will also need:

2. One (1) Left Side B Version Transmission (part # 986.561.179.03) list price
$589.00.

3. One (1) Right Side B Version Transmission (part # 986.561 180.03) list price
$589.00.

4. Six (6) Transmission mounting studs (part # 986.561.789.01) list price $8

each )Porsche calls these ASpacer Bolts@.

5. Two (2) drive cables (part # 986.561.717.03) list price $37.25 each.

6. One B Version Double Relay (part # 986.618.199.00) (square on label) list

price $125.25. Note that the A Version Relay is part # 986.618.111.02 (triangle
on label).

7. One (1) small black connector with three wires coming out of it: Brown with
Black stripe, Solid Brown, and Brown with Red Stripe. (AFAIK, this is not
available as separate part # from Porsche but is part of a wiring harness, so you
have to get a used one or you may be able to make your own or use the old
connector on one end of the B-Pillar microswitch wire if you can add one pin and
wire to it).

8. One (1) wide female spade connector of the type that can be inserted and
locked into the back of the #2 relay receptacle of the double relay).

9. One (1) 5 foot length of 20 gauge automotive electrical wire.

10. Heat shrink tubing.

11. Solder.

If you decide to replace the foam drain trays, the part numbers are
986.561.805.03 for the left side and 986.561.805.03 for the right side, at a list
price of $121.00

I. MECHANICAL PART OF REMOVAL/INSTALLATION OF TOP AND FRAME ASSEMBLY

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in
the owner's manual). I will go through it briefly here. Unlatch the top

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and open it to about 8 inches from the top of the windshield. Make sure
the clamshell is at its highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as
possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron on each side of its bar from
its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall. Now pop off the two
Atension ropes@ (cables) from their steel balls at the base of the cables.
Reaching from the back and under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its
base, pull or lever off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours
have never been replaced) on the end of the front pushrods from the steel
balls onto which they are pressed. If you have an angled flat-bladed
screwdriver, you can also lever off the plastic ball cups by inserting the
blade between the canvas and the car=s body about 2 to 3 inches back from
the base of the B-Pillar. Be careful not to chip off any paint when you
are Alevering@. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can
undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting
arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the
V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the
point where the two halves of the pushrod arm are joined so that you don't
have to guess at the correct overall length of the pushrod later (This is
important, so don=t skip this marking step). I have attached a photo, where
the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow
shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the
connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must
be removed and the blue arrow point to the Phillips screws (see step #3
below).

Frame removal with markings for pushrod separation

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2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the
outboard side of the driver's seatback), remove the semi-circular
carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the
roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the
top (just loosen it by two turns, you don't have to remove it
completely) and there is a Phillips screw near the bottom that is
well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8
inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall.

Cylindrical Panel 8 mm bolt to be loosened

Cylindrical Panel lower screw (Note defroster connector)

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Remove the panel by pulling up and out from the bottom and then
maneuvering the plastic covered top edge around until it is free.
This will remove the defroster hook up with it, which is mounted
on the top end of the panel. You must then disconnect the
defroster wires from their connector near the base of the roll
bar (Green w/ Grey stripe wire and a Brown wire). If your
Boxster is a >97, >98 or >99, you will also see the B-pillar
microswitch mounted underneath the knuckle of the B-Pillar, which
also must be disconnected from its connector at the lower end
near the base of the roll-bar.

Defroster and B-Pillar Connectors

There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie

holds the B-Pillar microswitch wire to the roll-bar. Now, on the
passenger side, remove the trim panel on that side in the same
fashion.

3. From the outside of the car, look under each side of the base
of the convertible top frame=s B-Pillars. You will see the heads
of three (3) 13mm bolts horizontally installed on each side of
the black frame. Unbolt the 3 large bolts (circled in red) that

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are visible on the outside of top frame on each side, looking
under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service
mode.

Some Boxsters may have a plastic box covering these three bolts,
and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips
screws.

4. You may find two Phillips screws just ahead of the rearmost
large bolt (visible in the photo above indicated by the two blue
arrows, [also see photo #13]) on each side. If you are not the
original owner, note that someone else may have removed the
Phillips screws and not replaced them. Unscrew those Phillips
screws and set them aside for later reassembly. The large bolts
go through slightly oversized holes in the frame, so as to allow
for a minor amount of adjustment fore and aft and up and down.
You can later install the new frame in the exact position of its
predecessor as follows: First loosely install the three bolts on
each side, then insert an awl (or similar tool) into each of the
two holes on each side through which the two Phillips screws had
been inserted and manipulate the frame fore and aft and up and
down until you find the holes into which the Phillips screws had

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been inserted. Once you have lined up the holes, insert and
screw in the two Phillips screws fully. Now tighten the three
(3) 13mm bolts on each side.

5. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been
removed (and the four Phillips screws [two on each side], if
present in your case), just slide the top back about one or two
inches and then lift it straight up. The top, with the mechanism
attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you
might want to have someone help you lift it off. You may also
have to gently separate the foam liner from the bottom of the
metal bracket that has been pressed on for many years. Proceed
carefully to insure that you do not rip, cut, or tear the foam
liner.

6. Installation of the new top is a reverse of the above

procedure, except that with the new top you will have a set of
defroster wires with a connector dangling down from underneath
the driver=s side of the top, near the rear. Be careful to route
those dangling wires so that they don=t get pinched or trapped
under the base of the frame on that side.

(Continue to next sections in Part II and Part III, if needed)

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