2011 Kawasaki kx450f 68796

GENERAL INFORMATION j
Quick Reference Guide

This Quick Reference Guide will assist you in MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT j
finding the information you’re looking for.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE j
TUNING j
STORAGE j
A Table of Contents is included after the

Foreword.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
• This vehicle is designed for the operator only, no passengers.

• highways. is a competition model only and was not manufactured for use on public streets, roads or
This vehicle
• The use of this vehicle should be limited to participation in sanctioned competition events upon a closed
course.
• This vehicle should not be used for general off-road recreational riding.
• Read owner’s manual.
Whenever you see the symbols shown below, CAUTION
heed their instructions! Always follow safe operat-
CAUTION indicates a hazardous situation
ing and maintenance practices.
which, if not avoided, could result in minor
DANGER or moderate injury.
DANGER indicates a hazardous situation

which, if not avoided, will result in death or NOTICE
serious injury. NOTICE is used to address practices not re-
lated to personal injury.
WARNING
WARNING indicates a hazardous situation NOTE
which, if not avoided, could result in death żThis note symbol indicates points of particular in-
or serious injury. terest for more efficient and convenient operation.
IMPORTANT NOTICE Motorcycle Noise Emission Control
THIS VEHICLE IS A COMPETITION MODEL Information
ONLY AND WAS NOT MANUFACTURED This motorcycle is designed for closed course
FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON, PUB- competition use only. It does not conform to
LIC STREETS, ROADS, OR HIGHWAYS. THE U.S. EPA motorcycle noise standards.
USE OF THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE LIMITED
TO PARTICIPATION IN SANCTIONED COMPE- NOTICE
TITION EVENTS UPON A CLOSED COURSE.
Off-road motorcycling is a wonderful sport,
THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR
and we hope you will enjoy it to the fullest.
GENERAL OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RID-
However, if improperly conducted, this sport
ING. READ OWNER’S MANUAL.
has the potential to cause environmental
problems as well as conflicts with other
WARNING people.
Responsible use of your off-road motorcycle
THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR will ensure that these problems and conflicts
GENERAL OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RID- do not occur. TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF
ING. YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE YOU USE YOUR
MOTORCYCLE LEGALLY, SHOW CONCERN
DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE
This motorcycle is sold AS IS, with all faults, RIGHTS OF OTHER PEOPLE.
obvious or concealed and there are NO WAR-
RANTIES, expressed or implied. Including war-
ranties of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR
PURPOSE.
The purchaser accepts all responsibilities con-
cerning quality, performance, cost of service
and/or necessary repairs.
FOREWORD
Congratulations on your choosing this Kawasaki motorcycle. Your new motorcycle is the product of
Kawasaki’s advanced engineering, exhaustive testing, and continuous striving for a superior lightweight,
high-performance machine with superb handling and stability for racing and sporting use.
Your new KX is a highly tuned competition machine for participation in racing events. As with any mechan-
ical device, proper care and maintenance are important for trouble-free operation and top performance. This
manual is written to enable you to keep your KX properly tuned and adjusted.
Due to improvements in design and performance made during production, in some cases there may be minor discrepancies between
the actual vehicle and the illustrations and text in this manual.
KAWASAKI HEAVY INDUSTRIES, LTD.

Motorcycle & Engine Company
©2010 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. Apr 2010. (1).

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SPECIFICATIONS............................................ 7 Handlebar...................................................... 82
GENERAL INFORMATION.............................. 10 Brakes ........................................................... 84
Location of Parts ........................................... 10 Steering ......................................................... 88
Side Stand..................................................... 13 Front Suspension .......................................... 90
Fuel ............................................................... 14 Rear Suspension (UNI-TRAK®)..................... 117
Kick Pedal ..................................................... 16 Wheels .......................................................... 123
Starting the Engine ........................................ 17 Hoses Inspection........................................... 126
Shifting Gears................................................ 18 Tightening Torques of Nuts and Bolts............ 127
Stopping the Motorcycle................................ 19 Cleaning Your Motorcycle.............................. 132
Stopping the Engine ...................................... 20 Lubrication..................................................... 134
Break-In......................................................... 20 DFI Self-Diagnosis ....................................... 137
Daily Pre-Ride Checks .................................. 22 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE......................... 143
After-Race Checks ........................................ 24 TUNING............................................................ 150
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT............. 25 Suspension.................................................... 150
Periodic Maintenance Chart .......................... 25 Gearing.......................................................... 156
Engine Oil...................................................... 30 Special Care According to Track Conditions . 157
Cooling System ............................................. 34 OPTIONAL PARTS .......................................... 158
Spark Plug..................................................... 38 PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE
Air Cleaner .................................................... 43 MAINTENANCE ............................................ 160
Throttle Cable ................................................ 48 STORAGE........................................................ 162
Throttle Body ................................................. 49 Before Storage .............................................. 162
Clutch ............................................................ 56 After Storage ................................................. 163
Valve Clearance ............................................ 66 ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION.................. 164
Exhaust System ............................................ 71 WIRING DIAGRAM .......................................... 166
Drive Chain.................................................... 75
SPECIFICATIONS 7
SPECIFICATIONS
DIMENSIONS
Overall length 2 185 mm (86.0 in.)
Overall width 820 mm (32.3 in.)
Overall height 1 280 mm (50.4 in.)
Wheelbase 1 480 mm (58.3 in.)
Road clearance 335 mm (13.2 in.)
Curb mass 113.4 kg (250 lb)
Fuel tank capacity 7.0 L (1.8 US gal)
ENGINE
Type DOHC, 4-valve, single-cylinder, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled
Bore × stroke 96.0 × 62.1 mm (3.8 × 2.4 in.)
Displacement 449 cm³ (27.4 cu in.)
Compression ratio 12.5 : 1
Fuel System FI (Fuel Injection)
Starting system Primary kick
Ignition system Digital DC-CDI
Ignition timing 10° BTDC @2 000 r/min (rpm)
Lubrication system Forced Lubrication (semi dry sump)
Spark plug NGK CPR8EB-9
Spark plug terminal Solid-post
8 SPECIFICATIONS
TRANSMISSION
Transmission type 5-speed, constant-mesh, return shift
Clutch type Wet, multi disc, Manual
Drive system Chain drive
Gear ratios:
1st gear 1.750 (28/16)
2nd gear 1.412 (24/17)
3rd gear 1.188 (19/16)
4th gear 1.000 (19/19)
5th gear 0.875 (21/24)
Primary reduction ratio 2.727 (60/22)
Final reduction ratio 3.846 (50/13)
Overall ratio (top gear) 9.178
Engine oil:
Type API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1, MA2
Viscosity SAE 10W-40
Capacity 1.2 L (1.3 US qt)
FRAME
Type Tubular, semi-double cradle
Steering angle 42° to either side
Castor 26.7°
Trail 116 mm (4.6 in.)
SPECIFICATIONS 9
Tire size, type:

Front 90/100-21 57M, BRIDGESTONE M403
Rear 120/80-19 63M, BRIDGESTONE M404
Rim size:
Front 21 × 1.60
Rear 19 × 2.15
Suspension:
Front Upside-down telescopic fork
Rear New Uni-trak® swingarm
Front suspension travel 315 mm (12.4 in.)
Rear wheel travel 315 mm (12.4 in.)
Front fork oil:
Type KAYABA 01
Capacity (per fork leg) :
Inner Damper 198 mL (6.7 US oz)
Inner/Outer Tubes 335 mL (11.3 US oz)
BRAKES
Type (Front & Rear) Single Disc
Specifications are subject to change without notice.

10 GENERAL INFORMATION
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Location of Parts
1. Clutch Lever 3. Fuel Tank Cap 5. Front Brake Lever

2. Engine Stop Button 4. Front Brake Fluid Reservoir 6. Throttle Grip
GENERAL INFORMATION 11
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7. Front Fork 12. Air Cleaner Element 17. Swingarm

8. Radiator 13. Brake Disc 18. Drive Chain
9. Fuel Tank 14. Brake Caliper 19. Chain Guide
10. Throttle Body 15. Shift Pedal
11. Seat 16. Rear Shock Absorber
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20. Silencer 24. Kick Pedal

21. Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir 25. Rear Brake Pedal
22. Rear Shock Absorber Gas Reservoir 26. Engine Oil Level Inspection Window
23. Uni-Trak® Tie Rod and Rocker Arm 27. Exhaust Pipe
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NOTE
Side Stand żSupport the motorcycle with a suitable stand to
perform maintenance or adjustment procedures.
To install the side stand, insert its flat end into the
rear axle shaft as shown.
A. Side Stand
B. Rear Axle Shaft
WARNING
Riding with the side stand can cause a crash
resulting in injury. Do not start the engine or
attempt to ride the motorcycle when the side
stand is installed.
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WARNING
Fuel Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be
explosive under certain conditions, creating
This Kawasaki KX has a 4-stroke engine that re-
the potential for serious burns. Always stop
quires a gasoline.
the engine and do not smoke. Make sure
The capacity of the fuel tank is 7.0 L (1.9 US gal).
the area is well-ventilated and free from any
To open the fuel tank cap, pull out the breather hose
source of flame or sparks; this includes any
from the hole in the steering shaft, and turn the tank
appliance with a pilot light. Never fill the tank
cap counterclockwise.
completely to the top. As the fuel expands
in a warm tank, it may overflow through the
vents in the tank cap. After refueling, make
sure the fuel tank cap is closed securely. If
gasoline is spilled on the fuel tank, wipe it off
immediately.
Fuel Requirements:
Fuel Type
Use clean, fresh unleaded gasoline with a mini-
mum Antiknock index of 90. The Antiknock Index is
posted on service station pumps in the U.S.A. The
octane rating of a gasoline is a measure of its re-
sistance to detonation or “knocking.” The Antiknock
Index is an average of the Research Octane Num-
A. Fuel Tank Cap
B. Breather Hose
ber (RON) and the Motor Octane Number (MON) as
shown in the table below.
Minimum
Octane Rating Method
Rating
(RON + MON)
Antiknock Index 90
2
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NOTICE products such as corn), also known as “gasohol” is
approved for use.
If engine “knocking” or “pinging” occurs,
use a different brand of gasoline of a higher NOTICE
octane rating.
If this condition is allowed to continue it can Avoid using blends of unleaded gasoline and
lead to severe engine damage. methanol (wood alcohol) whenever possible,
Gasoline quality is important. Fuels of low and never use “gasohol” containing more
quality or not meeting standard industry than 5% methanol. Fuel system damage and
specifications may result in unsatisfactory performance problems may result.
performance. Operating problems that result
from the use of poor quality or nonrecom- Gasoline/Ether Blends - The most common ether
mended fuel may not be covered under your is methyl tertiary butyl ether (MTBE). You may use
warranty. gasoline containing up to 15% MTBE.
NOTE
Fuels Containing Oxygenates żOther oxygenates approved for use in unleaded
Gasoline frequently contains oxygenates (alco- gasoline include TAME (up to 16.7 %) and ETBE
hols and ethers) especially in areas of the U.S. and (up to 17.2 %). Fuel containing these oxygenates
Canada which are required to sell such reformu- can also be used in your Kawasaki.
lated fuels as part of a strategy to reduce exhaust
emissions.
The types and volume of fuel oxygenates ap-
proved for use in unleaded gasoline by the U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency include a broad
range of alcohols and ethers, but only two compo-
nents have seen any significant level of commercial
use.
Gasoline/Alcohol Blends - Gasoline containing up
to 10% ethanol (alcohol produced from agricultural
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NOTICE
Never use gasoline with an octane rat-
Kick Pedal
ing lower than the minimum specified by
This motorcycle is equipped with a primary kick
Kawasaki.
starting system. When the clutch lever is pulled, the
Never use “gasohol” with more than 10%
motorcycle can be started with the transmission in
ethanol, or more than 5% methanol. Gaso-
any gear.
line containing methanol must also be
blended with cosolvents and corrosion
inhibitors.
Certain ingredients of gasoline may cause
paint fading or damage. Be extra careful
not to spill gasoline or gasoline oxygenate
blends during refueling.
When not operating your Kawasaki for 30
to 60 days, mix a fuel stabilizer (such as
STA-BIL) with the gasoline in the fuel tank.
Fuel stabilizer additives inhibit oxidation of
the fuel which minimizes gummy deposits.
Never store this product with “gasohol” in
the fuel system. Before storage it is recom-
mended that you drain all fuel from the fuel
tank and throttle body. See the Storage sec- A. Kick Pedal
tion in this manual.
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When engine is cold-
Starting the Engine •Pull out the idle adjusting/choke knob.
• Shift the transmission into neutral.

WARNING
Riding with the side stand can cause a crash
resulting in injury. Do not start the engine or
attempt to ride the motorcycle when the side
stand is installed.
NOTICE
This motorcycle is designed for competition
use only. Therefore, the radiator does not
incorporate a coolant reserve tank or cool-
ing fan. Prolonged idling of the engine with A. Idle Adjusting/Choke Knob
no airflow through the radiator can cause
coolant loss and engine overheating result- • Find the kick pedal position around the top so that
the resistance to depress the kick pedal is fully felt
ing in possible engine damage. Any riding
conditions that increase engine temperature by pushing down the kick pedal slowly.
will further reduce idling time before coolant • Kick the engine over, leaving the throttle closed.
loss occurs. These conditions include high NOTE
ambient temperature, sandy or muddy ter-
rain, or other conditions causing high engine żWhen the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can
be started with the transmission in any gear.
loads at low speeds. Furthermore, warming
the engine up excessively before operation,
or leaving idling with the hot engine temper-
• Even after the engine has started, do not push
back immediately the idle adjusting/choke knob
ature after operation results in the engine until the engine is thoroughly warmed up.
overheating, too.
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When engine is already warm or restarts-
•Kick the engine over, leaving the throttle closed
without using the idle adjusting/choke knob.
Shifting Gears
This motorcycle is equipped with a 5-speed “return
NOTE shift” transmission. The neutral is located halfway
żIf the engine fails starting, open the throttle fully between 1st and 2nd gear. “Return shift” means
and depress the kick pedal slowly about 4 a 5 that when shifting up or down, each gear must be
times to clear too rich fuel mixtures in the engine. engaged before the next higher or lower gear may
Then, kick the engine over, leaving the throttle be selected.
closed.
• To engage first gear from the neutral position, pull
in the clutch lever and push down on the shift
pedal, gently release the clutch lever, then release
the shift pedal.
• To shift up to the next gear, pull in the clutch lever,
lift the shift pedal with your toes, gently release the
clutch lever, and then release the shift pedal.
• To shift down to the next gear, pull in the clutch
lever, push the shift pedal down as far as it will go,
gently release the clutch lever, then release the
shift pedal.
NOTICE
When changing gears, press firmly on the
shift pedal to ensure proper shifting. Care-
less, incomplete shifting can cause the
transmission to jump out of gear and lead to
engine damage.
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Stopping the Motorcycle
For maximum deceleration, close the throttle and
apply both front and rear brakes. Pull in the clutch
lever as the motorcycle comes to a stop. Indepen-
dent use of the front or rear brake may be advanta-
geous in certain circumstances. Shift down progres-
sively to ensure good engine response at all speeds.
A. Shift Pedal
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Stopping the Engine Break-In
• Shift thethetransmission into the neutral position. A brief break-in procedure must be carried out to
• Close
stop button.
throttle completely and push the engine obtain the proper operating clearances in the engine
and transmission, which are necessary for perfor-
mance and reliability.
NOTICE
For the first hour or 20 km (12 mi) of opera-
tion, run the engine at low and moderate en-
gine speeds. See details below.
Break in the engine as follows.

1. Start the engine and let it idle until it is thor-
oughly warmed up.
2. Ride the motorcycle for about 20 minutes within
1/2 throttle opening.
3. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be
sure to check the tightness of nuts and bolts,
A. Engine Stop Button oil leakage, and any irregularities.
4. Start the engine and ride the motorcycle for
about 40 minutes within 3/4 throttle opening.
5. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be
sure to fully check the tightness of nuts and
bolts, oil leakage, and any irregularities, espe-
cially, each cable elongation, brake play, chain
slack and spoke tightness.
6. Change the engine oil, oil filter and front
fork/rear shock absorber oil to the new one.
7. After the break-in procedure has been properly
carried out, the motorcycle is ready for regular
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operation. Using the proper riding skills and NOTICE
techniques and avoiding recklessly high engine
When any following parts have been re-
speeds will keep the engine trouble-free.
placed, the same break-in procedure as the
new motorcycle must be carried out for one
hour or 20 km (12 mi):
Cylinder, Piston, Piston pin, Piston ring,
Valve, Valve lifter, Camshaft, Crankshaft,
Mission gear, etc.
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Daily Pre-Ride Checks
Check the following items each day before you ride. The time required is minimal, and habitual performance
of these checks will help ensure a safe, reliable ride.
If any irregularities are found during these checks, refer to the appropriate section and take the action required
to return the motorcycle to a safe operating condition.
WARNING
Failure to perform these checks before operation may result in serious damage or an accident. Al-
ways perform daily safety checks before operation.
DANGER
Exhaust gas contains carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless poisonous gas.
Inhaling carbon monoxide can cause serious brain injury or death.
Do not run the engine in enclosed areas. Operate only in a well-ventilated area.
Engine
Engine Oil ........................................ No leakage
Level correct
Coolant ............................................ No leakage
Level correct (engine cold)
Radiator Cap ................................... Properly installed
Spark Plug ....................................... Correctly torqued
Cylinder Head Cover ....................... Correctly torqued
Clutch .............................................. Functions properly
Air Cleaner ....................................... Clean
Apply oil to air cleaner element
Properly installed
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Muffler .............................................. No damage
Properly installed
Engine Sprocket .............................. No wear or damage
Frame
Tires ................................................. Overall condition good
No wear or damage
Pressure correct
Air valve cap installed
Spokes ............................................. No looseness
Drive Chain ...................................... Overall condition good
Chain slack correct
Oil if necessary
Front and Rear Brakes .................... Function properly
Lever and pedal play correct
No fluid leakage
Throttle ............................................ Functions properly
Throttle grip returns smoothly
Steering ........................................... Smooth but not loose from lock to lock
No binding due to control cables
Front Fork ........................................ Functions properly
No oil leakage
Rear Shock Absorber ...................... Functions properly
No oil leakage
Fuel Tank ......................................... Mounted securely
No fuel leakage
Rear Sprocket .................................. No wear or damage
Engine Stop Button .......................... Functions properly
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners ..................... Properly tightened
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After-Race Checks
After racing, first clean the motorcycle (see p.132),
then inspect the entire motorcycle with special atten-
tion to the air cleaner, brakes, etc.
Carry out the general lubrication (see p.134) and
make necessary adjustments.
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT 25
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

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Periodic Maintenance Chart
The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accor-
dance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.
1. Periodic Inspection (Engine Related Item)
FREQUENCY After each Every 3 Every 6 Every 12
As See
race (or races (or races (or races (or
OPERATION required Page
2.5 hour) 7.5 hour) 15 hour) 30 hour)
Throttle cable - inspect and adjust • 48
Valve clearance - inspect • 66
Clutch friction/steel plates - inspect † • 61
Spark plug - clean and regap † • 38
Clutch lever free play - adjust • 56
Air cleaner element - clean † • 46
*Cylinder, cylinder head - inspect • –
*Crankshaft - inspect • –
Silencer - inspect † • 72
Kick pedal and shift pedal - clean • –
Engine sprocket - inspect † • 81
Coolant - inspect † • 35
26 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

As See
j 2.5 hour) 7.5 hour) 15 hour) 30 hour)
Throttle Body - inspect and clean • 49
Idling speed - inspect and adjust • 49
Breather hose - inspect • 126
Radiator hoses and connection -
inspect † • 34
2. Periodic Inspection (Chassis Related Item)

As See
race (or races (or races (or races (or j
2.5 hour) 7.5 hour) 15 hour) 30 hour)
Brake adjustment - inspect † • 84
Brake pad wear - inspect † • 87
Brake fluid level - inspect † • 85
Spoke tightness and rim runout - 123 a
inspect † • 125
Drive chain - inspect and adjust † • 75
82,
Drive chain - lubricate † • 136
Drive chain wear - inspect † • 79
Front fork - inspect • 90
Nuts, bolts, fasteners - inspect † • 127
*Fuel system - clean • –
Fuel hoses, connections - inspect † • 126
Brake hoses, connections - inspect † • 126
Steering free play - inspect † • 88
*Steering stem bearing - grease • –
Rear sprocket - inspect † • 81
General lubrication - perform • 134
*Wheel bearing - inspect † • –

As See
j 2.5 hour) 7.5 hour) 15 hour) 30 hour)
*Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkage
pivots - inspect • –
*Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkage

pivots - grease • –
Frame - clean and check • –

Wheel/tire (air pressure, excessive
wear or damage) - inspect • 123
Rear shock absorber - inspect • 117

Cable - inspect • –
3. Periodic Replacement (Engine and Chassis Related Item)

See
race (or 2.5 races (or races (or 15 races (or j
OPERATION Page
hour) 7.5 hour) hour) 30 hour)
Engine oil - replace R 31
Oil filter - replace R 31
*Piston and piston ring - replace † Every 6 races –
*Piston pin - replace R –
Silencer packing - replace R 71
*Brake fluid - replace † Every 2 years –
*Brake master cylinder cup and dust seal - –
Every 2 years
replace †
*Brake caliper piston seal and dust seal - –
Every 2 years
replace †
*Brake hoses and pipe - replace † Every 4 years –
Front fork oil - replace R 94
*Fuel hose - replace † Every 4 years –
*Rear shock absorber oil - replace R –
†: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.

* : Should be serviced by referring to the Service Manual or an authorized Kawasaki dealer.
R: Replace
Oil Level Inspection
Engine Oil • Ifsitthea few
oil has just been changed, let the motorcycle
minutes allowing the oil to settle.
j In order for the engine, transmission and clutch
to function properly, maintain the engine oil at the
• idle speed.
Start the engine and run it for several minutes at
Do not run the engine at high en-
proper level, and change the oil and oil filter period- gine speed.
ically.
Not only do dirt and metal particles collect in the
• Stop the engine and wait several minutes for the
oil to settle.
oil, but the oil itself loses its lubricative quality if used
too long.
• Check the engine oil level with the motorcycle ver-
tical through the oil level inspection window on the
lower right side of the engine. The oil level should
WARNING come up between the high and low level lines next
Motorcycle operation with insufficient, de- to the window.
teriorated, or contaminated engine oil will • If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil
using a syringe or other suitable device.
cause accelerated wear and may result in en-
gine or transmission seizure, accident, and • If the oil level is too low, add the correct amount
of oil through the oil filler opening. Use oil of the
injury. Check the oil level before each ride
and change the oil according to the periodic same type and brand as those of the one that is
maintenance chart in the Owner’s Manual. already in the engine.
NOTE
żIf no oil appears in the oil level inspection window,
Because of the semi-dry sump lubrication system,
the engine oil level indicated on the oil level inspec-
tion window will fluctuate depending on the motorcy- tip the motorcycle slightly to the right until oil is
cle’s position and engine speed when the engine’s visible then return to an upright position. If no oil
shut off. To ensure a proper reading of the engine appears even when tipped at an extreme angle,
oil level, follow the Oil Level Inspection procedures remove drain plugs to empty any oil that may be in
closely. the transmission and crankcase, reinstall the drain
plugs and refill with the specified amount of oil.
NOTICE
Racing the engine before the oil reaches ev-
ery part can cause engine seizure.
Oil and/or Oil Filter Change

The engine oil and/or oil filter should be changed
periodically to ensure long engine life.
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• Warm up the engine thoroughly so that the oil will
pick up any sediment and drain easily.
• Stop the engine, and place a container beneath it.
• Remove the oil filler cap.
• Remove the oil drain plugs and position the vehi-
cle perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oil
to drain.
A. Oil Level Inspection Window

B. High Level Line
C. Low Level Line
D. Oil Filler Cap
A. Drain Plug (M6)

B. Drain Plug (M10)
WARNING • Replace the oil filter element with a new one.

Motor oil is a toxic substance. Dispose of
j used oil properly. Contact your local author-
ities for approved disposal methods or pos-
sible recycling.
• When the oil filter is replaced, remove the oil filter

cover and take off the cover with O-ring.
A. Oil Filter Element

B. Grommet
• Apply the grease oil to the grommet.

• Install the oil filter element with the grommet to-
ward the oil filter cover.
NOTICE
A. Oil Filter Cover Inside-Out installation stop oil flow, causing
B. Bolts engine seizure.
• Install the oil filter cover with the grease applied to

a new O-ring and tighten its bolts to the specified
torque.
Oil Filter Cover Bolts Tightening Torque
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
• After the oil has completely drained out, install the

drain plugs with their new gaskets. Proper torque
Engine Oil Capacity
0.96 L (1.01 US qt) [When filter is not removed]
for them is shown in the table.
0.98 L (1.04 US qt) [When filter is removed] j
Engine Oil Drain Plugs Tightening Torque
1.20 L (1.27 US qt) [When engine is completely
Drain Plug (M6) 7.0 N·m (0.7 kgf·m, 62 in·lb) dry]
Drain Plug (M10) 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE
NOTE żIf unavailable, use equivalent engine oil in accor-
żReplace any gaskets or O-ring with their new dance with the following table.
ones.
Type: API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO
• Fill the engine up to the high level line with good
quality engine oil specified in the table.
MA, MA1, MA2
• Install the oil filler cap. Viscosity: SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50
• Start the engine.
• Check the oil level and oil leakage. NOTE
Recommended Engine Oil żDo not add any chemical additive to the oil. Oils
Castrol “Power 1 R4 Racing” 5W-40 or fulfilling the above requirements are fully formu-
“Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke Full Synthetic lated and provide adequate lubrication for both the
Oil*” 10W-40 or engine and the clutch.
“Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke
Semi-Synthetic Oil*” 10W-40 or
“Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke Motorcycle
Oil*” 10W-40
*Kawasaki Performance Oils and Lubricants have

been specifically engineered for your vehicle. Con-
sistent use of these products meets or exceeds war-
ranty and service requirements and can help to ex-
tend the life of your Kawasaki.
The oil viscosity may need to be changed to ac-
commodate atmospheric conditions in your riding Cooling System
area.
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Cooling Hoses
Check the cooling hoses for cracks or deteriora-
tion, and the connections for looseness in accor-
dance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
Radiator
Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or
mud. Clean off any obstructions with a low-pressure
stream of water.
NOTICE
Using high-pressure water, as from a car
wash facility, could damage the radiator fins
and impair the radiator’s effectiveness.
Do not obstruct or deflect airflow by in-
stalling unauthorized accessories in front of
the radiator.
Interference with the cooling airflow can lead
to overheating and consequent engine dam-
age.
Coolant
Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine
and transfers it to the air through the radiator. If
the coolant level becomes low, the engine overheats
and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant
level each day before riding the motorcycle, and re-
plenish coolant if the level is low.
WARNING Coolant Level Inspection

The cooling system can get extremely hot • Remove the right shroud.
during normal operation and cause serious • ground until themotorcycle
Situate the perpendicular to the
radiator cap is level to the ground,
j
burns. Do not touch the radiator when it is
so that the radiator cap is located uppermost
hot, nor open the radiator cap. Hot coolant
in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the
inside will cause severe burns.
radiator.
NOTE • Remove the radiator cap in two steps.
żThe coolant originally filled into the cooling sys-

• First, turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop
and wait there for a few seconds.
tem contains 50% of a permanent, ethylene-glycol
-based antifreeze, has a freezing point of –35°C
• Then, push and turn the cap further in the same
direction and remove it.
(–31°F) and a green appearance.
A. Radiator Cap
• Check the coolant level in the radiator. The

coolant should come up to the bottom of the
Recommended Antifreeze
Permanent type of antifreeze (ethylene glycol
radiator filler neck. base plus corrosion and rust inhibitors for
j
NOTE aluminum engines and radiators)
żCheck the coolant level when the engine is cold
(room or ambient temperature). Coolant Total Amount
1.05 L (1.1 US qt)
• Install the radiator cap.

Coolant Change
The coolant should be changed to ensure long en-
gine life, if necessary.
• Wait for the engine to cool completely.
• Remove the guard.
A. Coolant Level
B. Filler Neck
• Ifradiator
the coolant level is low, add coolant through the
filler opening to the bottom of the filler
neck.
Water and Antifreeze Mixing Ratio
1 : 1 (water : antifreeze)
A. Guard
B. Bolt
• Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to the

ground until the radiator cap is level to the ground.
WARNING
Immediately wipe any spilled coolant from
• Remove the radiator cap in two steps (see the
“Coolant level inspection”).
tires, frame, engine or other painted parts. j
Do not ingest coolant.
• Drain the coolant from the engine and radiator in
the following way.
• Place a container under the coolant drain plug on • Visually inspect the old coolant.
the water pump cover and remove the drain plug. • parts in the
If whitish cotton-like wafts are observed, aluminum
cooling system are corroded and the
system must be flushed.
• Ifingtheandcoolant is brown , iron or steel parts are rust-
the system must be flushed.
• Check the cooling system for damage, loose con-
nections, and leaks.
• Install the coolant drain plug with its new gasket
at the water pump cover and apply the specified
torques.
NOTE
żAlways replace any gasket with a new one.
Coolant Drain Plug Tightening Torque
7.0 N·m (0.7 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
A. Coolant Drain Plug
B. Water Pump Cover • Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler
neck with coolant.
NOTICE • Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to the
ground until the radiator filler neck is level to the
Immediately wash away any coolant that ground so that the filler neck is located uppermost
spills on the frame, engine, or wheel. in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the
radiator.
NOTICE
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors
Spark Plug
j made specifically for aluminum engines and
The spark plug should be taken out periodically for
radiators in accordance with the instruction
inspection and regapping. Measure the gap with a
of the manufacture. Soft or distilled water
wire-type thickness gauge. If incorrect, adjust the
must be used with the antifreeze in the cool-
gap to the specified value by bending the outer elec-
ing system. If hard water is used in the sys-
trode.
tem, it causes scale accumulation in the wa-
ter passages, and considerably reduces the Spark Plug Gap
efficiency of the cooling system. CPR8EB-9 0.8 a 0.9 mm
CPR9EB-9 (0.031 a 0.035 in.)
NOTE
żPour in the coolant slowly so that it can expel the
air from the engine and radiator.

• Check the cooling system for leaks.
• stop it. engine and warm up thoroughly, then
Start the
• Check the coolant level after the engine has

cooled down. The coolant should come up to the
bottom of the radiator filler neck.
• If the coolant level is low, add coolant up to the
bottom of the radiator filler neck.
• Check the cooling system for leaks.
A. Gap
B. Outer Electrode
If the plug is oily or has carbon built up on it, clean Spark Plug Removal and Installation
it (preferably with a sandblaster) and then clean
off any abrasive particles. The plug may also be
• Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt and the left
and right side shroud bolts.
j
cleaned using a high-flash-point solvent and a wire
brush or other suitable tool. If the spark plug elec-
• Unhook the rubber band on the fuel tank and re-
move the fuel tank with the left and right shrouds.
trodes are corroded, or damaged, or if the insulator
is cracked, replace the plug. The standard spark
plug is shown in the table below.
Standard Spark Plug
CPR8EB-9
To find out whether the plug’s heat range is correct,

remove the plug and examine the ceramic insulator
around the center electrode. If the ceramic is light
brown, the spark plug correctly matches the engine
temperature.
If the ceramic is burned white, the plug should be
replaced with a colder plug.
Optional Spark Plug
A. Fuel Tank
Colder CPR9EB-9 B. Shrouds
C. Fuel Tank Mounting Bolt
NOTE D. Shroud Bolts
E. Rubber Band
żIf the engine performance drops, try replacing the
spark plug to regain performance.
żIf the spark plug is replaced, use the genuine
Kawasaki spark plug.
• To remove the fuel hose joint, pull the joint lock • Put a rag around the fuel hose joint.
outward while opening it. • tor. the fuel hose joint and fuel pump connec-
Remove
j
A. Joint Lock
B. Pull outward A. Fuel Hose Joint
B. Fuel Pump Connector
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be
explosive under certain conditions.
Always stop the engine and do not smoke.
Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free
from any source of flame or sparks; this in-
cludes any appliance with a pilot light.
• Clean the cylinder head cover around the spark

plug cap hole before removing the spark plug.
• Pull the spark plug cap off the plug before remov-
ing the spark plug.
• Apply a suitable wrench to the spark plug. Fuel Tank Installation

• When reinstalling
Loosen and remove the spark plug. • Insert the fuel hose joint straight onto the fuel out-
• ification. the spark plug, torque it to spec- let pipe until the hose joint clicks.
j
• Push the joint lock until the hose joint clicks.
Spark Plug Tightening Torque
13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 115 in·lb)
• Install the spark plug cap so that align it to the line

on the head cover.
• Pull up the plug cap lightly to make sure of the
installation of the spark plug cap.
A. Fuel Hose Joint

B. Joint Lock
A. Spark Plug Cap

B. Line on the cylinder head cover
• Push and pull the hose joint back and forth more
than two times, and make sure it is locked and
NOTICE
When installing the fuel hose joint, do not
does not come off.
j apply strong force to the out let pipe on the
fuel pump. The pipe made from resin could
be damaged.
NOTE
żIf it comes off, reinstall the hose joint.
• Hook the rubber band to the fuel tank.
• right shroud
Install the fuel tank mounting bolt and the left and
bolts.
A. Hose Joint
B. Push and Pull
WARNING
Leaking fuel can cause a fire or explosion
resulting in serious burns. Make sure the
hose joint is installed correctly on the deliv-
ery pipe by sliding the joint.
Element Removal and Inspection

Air Cleaner • Remove the seat mounting bolts on the right and
left sides.
A clogged air cleaner restricts the air intake, in-
j
creases fuel consumption, reduces engine power,
and can cause spark plug fouling. Inspect the air in-
take system, which includes the air filter and air duct
to the throttle body, and the duct clamps and throttle
body, before each race or practice session.
WARNING
If dirt or dust is allowed to pass through into
the throttle body, the throttle may become
stuck, possibly causing accident.
Be sure to keep the dust from entering during
cleaning.
A. Seat Mounting Bolt

NOTICE
A clogged air cleaner will affect fuel mixture
to the engine and reduce engine power and
cause spark plug fouling.
NOTE
żIn dusty areas, the element should be cleaned
more frequently than recommended interval.
żAfter riding through rain or on muddy roads, the
element should be cleaned immediately.
• Open the both side covers slightly outward and

slide the seat rearward.
• Remove
element.
the wing bolt, and take out the air cleaner
A. Side Cover A. Air Cleaner Element

B. Seat B. Wing Bolt
• Check inside of the intake tract and throttle body

for dirt. If dirty, clean the intake tract and throttle
body thoroughly.
• Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the throttle body
to keep dirt from entering the throttle body.
• Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing with
a clean, damp towel.
• Take the element off its frame.
NOTICE
Do not twist or wring the element, as it gets
easily torn or damaged.
• Inspect the element. If it is dirty, clean it. Also

check if the element is in good condition (no tears,
hardening or shrinkage). If damaged, replace the
element or it will allow dirt into the throttle body.
j
WARNING
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust
to enter the throttle body assembly and the
throttle may stick resulting in a hazardous
operating condition. Clean the air cleaner ac-
cording to the periodic maintenance chart;
more often if the motorcycle is used in ex-
tremely dusty conditions.
A. Air Cleaner Element
NOTICE B. Element Frame
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust

to enter the engine, causing it to wear exces-
sively or to become damaged.
Element Cleaning and Installation
• Clean the element in a bath of a high flash point
solvent or hot soapy water. Rinse the element with
j clear water to remove all traces of the cleaning
solution.
• Squeeze the element dry in a clean towel.
NOTICE
Do not twist, wring or blow the element dry
to avoid damaging it.
WARNING
Gasoline and low-flash point solvents can be
flammable and/or explosive and cause se-
vere burns. Clean the element in a well ven-
tilated area, and take care that there is no
spark or flame anywhere near the working ar-
eas. Do not use gasoline or low-flash point
solvents to clean the element.
• After cleaning, let the filter dry completely. Satu-

rate the element with a high-quality foam air fil-
ter oil and make sure that the oil is evenly ap-
plied throughout the element. Squeeze out the ex-
cess oil, but do not wring the element as this could
cause tearing. In this case, too much oil is better
than too little. Finally pat the inside of the element
with a paper towel to remove any excess oil.
• Before installation, check the element for damage

such as tears, hardening, or shrinkage. If dam-
• Install the air cleaner element so that its tab faces
upward and its projections align with the holes in
aged, replace the element. the housing.
j
• Apply grease to all mating surfaces and to the
screw hole in the air cleaner housing and intake
tract.
• Remove the towel from the throttle body.
• Install the element onto its frame, and coat the
element lip and lip seat with a thick layer of all
-purpose grease to assure a complete seal.
A. Tab
B. Projection
C. Hole
• Install the seat.

A. Apply Grease.
Throttle Cable
j
Throttle Cable Adjustment
Inspect the throttle grip for smooth operation in
all steering positions. Check and adjust the throttle
cable in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance
Chart.
• Check that the throttle grip has 2 a 3 mm (0.08 a
0.12 in.) of play and turns smoothly.
A. Adjusters
B. Locknuts
• With the engine idling, turn the handlebar both

ways and check if handlebar movement changes
the idling speed. If so, the throttle cable may be
improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or dam-
aged. Be sure to correct any of these conditions
before riding.
WARNING
A. Throttle Grip Operation with improperly adjusted, incor-
B. 2 a 3 mm (0.08 a 0.12 in.) rectly routed, or damaged cables could re-
sult in an unsafe riding condition. Be sure
• Ifupper
the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the
end of the throttle cable and turn the ad-
the control cables are adjusted and routed
correctly, and are free from damage.
juster to obtain the specified play. Then, tighten
the locknut toward the adjuster.
the idling speed. If so, the throttle cable may be

Throttle Body improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed, or dam-
aged. Be sure to correct any of these conditions
before riding.
j
Idle Speed
• Thoroughly warm up the engine. WARNING
• Turn the idle adjusting/choke knob to adjust the
idle speed 2 000 r/min (rpm) by using the engine Operation with damaged cables could result
revolution tester (The tester should be followed by in an unsafe riding condition. Replace dam-
the method described by the manufacture). aged control cables before operation.
NOTICE
This motorcycle is designed for competition
use only. Therefore, the radiator does not
incorporate a coolant reserve tank or cool-
ing fan. Prolonged idling of the engine with
no airflow through the radiator can cause
coolant loss and engine overheating result-
ing in possible engine damage. Any riding
conditions that increase engine temperature
will further reduce idling time before coolant
loss occurs. These conditions include high
ambient temperature, sandy or muddy ter-
A. Idle Adjusting Screw/Choke Knob rain, or other conditions causing high engine
B. Tester loads at low speeds. Furthermore, warming
the engine up excessively before operation,
• Open and close the throttle a few times to make
sure the idling speed does not change, and read-
or leaving idling with the hot engine temper-
ature after operation results in the engine
just if necessary. overheating, too.
• With the engine idling, turn the handlebar both
ways and check if handlebar movement changes
Cleaning the Throttle Body • Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp screw.
• Remove the seat (see the “Air Cleaner” section).
j • Remove the tank (see the “Spark Plug” section).
• Remove the silencer (see the “Exhaust System”
section).
• Disconnect the inlet air temperature sensor con-
nector.
A. Air Cleaner Duct Clamp Screw
A. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Connector

• Remove
sides.
the rear frame bolts on the left and right • Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.
• Pull the rear frame backward and remove the air
cleaner box with it.
j
A. Throttle Sensor Connector
A. Rear Frame Bolts

B. Air Cleaner Box
• Disconnect
tor.
the inlet air pressure sensor connec- • Remove the throttle
mounting bolt.
cable holder cover and
j • Disconnect the fuel injector connector.
A. Mounting Bolt
A. Inlet Air Pressure Sensor Connector B. Throttle Cable Holder Cover
B. Fuel Injector Connector
• Remove the lower ends of the throttle cables from

the throttle body pulley by loosing the throttle cable
adjusters.
j
A. Throttle Cable Holder Cover Mounting Bolt

B. Throttle Cable Holder Cover
A. Throttle Cable Lower Ends

B. Throttle Body Pulley
C. Decelerator Cable
D. Accelerator Cable
E. Adjusters
• Loosen the throttle body clamp screw and pull the

throttle body backward.
NOTICE
If dirt gets through into the engine, exces-
j sive engine wear and possibly engine dam-
age will occur.
Throttle Body Installation

• Apply oil to the throttle cable and reinstall it in re-
verse order of removal
• Check if the connectors are installed properly.
Throttle Cable Holder Cover Mounting Bolt
Tightening Torque
7.0 N·m (0.7 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
WARNING
A. Throttle Body Clamp Screw Operation with improperly adjusted, incor-
B. Throttle Body rectly routed, or damaged cables could re-
• After removing the throttle body, cover the throttle
body holder and air cleaner duct with a clean cloth
sult in an unsafe riding condition. Be sure
the control cables are adjusted and routed
to protect them form dirt. correctly, and are free from damage.
• Clean the throttle body (Refer to “Cleaning Your
Motorcycle”).
• Install the air cleaner duct clamp to the air cleaner

duct while bringing down the rear frame a little.
• Install the throttle body to the air cleaner duct and
the cylinder intake duct while bringing down the
Make sure the tab of the air cleaner duct clamp rear frame firmly.
j
is aligned with the groove in the air intake duct. • Check the each duct is installed securely, and the
projection of the throttle body is aligned with the
NOTICE groove in the cylinder intake duct.
Be sure not to damage the rear shock ab-
sorber spring by the air cleaner duct clamp
when bringing down the rear frame.
A. Duct Groove
B. Projection
• Tighten the clamp screws securely.

A. Tab • to the specified
Tighten the rear frame bolt (upper and lower sides)
torque.
B. Groove
C. Air Cleaner Duct (View from Rear Side) Rear Frame Bolt Tightening Torque
D. Frame 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
E. Air Cleaner Housing
• Install the fuel tank (see the ”Spark Plug” section). Clutch
j WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be Clutch Lever Adjustment
explosive under certain conditions. Proper clutch lever free play is 8 a 13 mm (0.3 a
Always stop the engine and do not smoke. 0.5 in.). Lever play increases with cable stretch and
Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free friction plate wear, requiring periodic adjustment.
from any source of flame or sparks; this in- When the clutch lever play is out of specification,
cludes any appliance with a pilot light. first try adjusting it at the clutch lever as follows.
• Open and close the throttle a few times to make

• Turn the adjuster to obtain the proper amount of
clutch lever free play.
sure the grip operates correctly.
• Check the throttle cable play and idle speed ad-
justment.
A. Clutch Lever
B. Adjuster
C. 8 a 13 mm (0.3 a 0.5 in.)
If the clutch lever play cannot be adjusted at the

clutch lever, make the adjustment further down the
• Tighten the locknut.
cable as follows. WARNING j
• Turn the adjuster in all the way. Too much cable play can prevent clutch dis-
• Loosen the locknut in the middle of the clutch ca-
ble, and turn the adjusting nut so that the clutch
engagement and cause an accident resulting
in serious injury or death. When adjusting
lever play is 8 a 13 mm (0.3 a 0.5 in.). the clutch or replacing the cable, be sure the
upper end of the clutch outer cable is fully
seated in its fitting, or it could slip into place
later, creating enough cable play to prevent
clutch disengagement.
NOTE
żAfter the adjustment is made, start the engine and
check that the clutch does not slip and that it re-
leases properly.
A. Adjusting Nut
B. Locknut
Steel and Friction Plates Inspection • Remove the clutch cover mounting bolts.
NOTE
j żTo inspect the steel and friction plates, remove the
clutch plate.
• Drain the engine oil. (see the “Engine Oil” section).

• brake master
Remove the brake pedal pivot bolt and the rear
cylinder mounting bolts.
• Remove the rear brake pedal return spring.
A. Mounting Bolts
B. Clutch Cover
A. Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt

B. Mounting Bolts
C. Rear Brake Master Cylinder
D. Brake Pedal
E. Return Spring
• Remove the clutch cover and gasket. • Remove the push rod holder, washer and push
• plate andthesprings
Remove clutch spring bolts, clutch pressure
while pressing the push rod
rod.
holder.
j
A. Push Rod Holder

B. Washer
A. Clutch Spring Bolts C. Push Rod
B. Clutch Pressure Plate
C. Push Rod Holder
• Remove the friction and steel plates. Friction and Steel Plates Wear/Damage
• holder (special
Remove the clutch hub nut with using the clutch Inspection
j tool: 57001-1243) to prevent the
clutch hub from rotating.
• Visually inspect the friction and steel plates to see
if they show any signs of seizure, or uneven wear.
• Remove the clutch hub. If any plates show signs of damage, replace all
friction plates and steel plates as a set.
• Measure the thickness of the friction plates with
vernier calipers.
If they have worn past the service limit, replace
them with new ones.
Friction Plate Thickness Measurement
2.92 a 3.08 mm
Standard
(0.115 a 0.121 in.)
Service Limit 2.6 mm (0.102 in.)
If the steel plates are replaced, measure the clutch

plate assembly length, and use the steel plates in
the following table so that the clutch plate assembly
A. Clutch Hub length is standard. When measuring the clutch plate
B. Clutch Hub Nut assembly length, assemble the clutch plate assem-
C. Clutch Holder (P.N. 57001-1243) bly (clutch hub, friction plates, steel plates, clutch
D. Clutch Housing pressure plate, clutch spring bolts, springs).
Clutch Spring Bolts Tightening Torque
8.8 N·m (0.9 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)
Steel Plate (P.N.) Thickness

13089-1095
1.6 mm (0.062 in.)
(Standard) j
13089-1005 2.0 mm (0.079 in.)
13089-1010 1.2 mm (0.047 in.)
NOTE
żDo not use the steel plate of 2.0 mm (0.079 in.)
and 1.2 mm (0.047 in.) thickness at the same time.
A. Clutch Hub
B. Friction Plates
C. Steel Plates
D. Clutch Pressure Plate
E. Clutch Spring Bolt
F. Spring
G. Standard Length
Standard Clutch Plate Assembly Measurement

Standard Length:
34.9 a 35.5 mm (1.37 a 1.40 in.)
A. Thickness
B. Friction Plate
Friction and Steel Plates Warp Inspection

• Place each friction plate and steel plate on a sur-
face plate, and measure the amount of friction
plate and steel plate warp with a thickness gauge
(i.e., the gap between the surface plate and each Clutch Hub Installation
friction plate or steel plate). • Install all parts in the reverse order of removal.
j • If any plate is warped over the service limit, re- • Install the
Install the clutch hub.
place it with a new one. • nut. spacer while “OUT SIDE” is faced to the
Friction and Steel Plate Warp
Maximum 0.15 mm
Friction Standard
(0.006 in.) or less
Plate
Maximum 0.2 mm
Standard
Steel Plate (0.008 in.) or less
A. Spacer
B. “OUT SIDE”
• Tighten the clutch hub nut with using the clutch

holder (special tool: 57001-1243) to the specified
torque.
Clutch Hub Nut Tightening Torque
98 N·m (10 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
A. Surface Plate
B. Friction or Steel Plate
C. Thickness Gauge
Friction and Steel Plates Installation NOTE

• Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. żThe friction plates at each end are different from
• Install the friction plates and steel plates, alternat-
ing between the two; be sure to start and finish
the plates installed between these plates. How- j
ever, it is impossible to identify the difference by
with a friction plate. external view.
żWhen servicing the clutch, use a permanent
marker to identify the two end friction plates be-
fore removing them so that they can be reinstalled
in the correct positions.
żWhen replacing the friction plates with new ones,
mark the two end friction plates just after opening
the package so that you can distinguish and install
them in the correct location.
NOTICE
If dry steel plates and friction plates are in-
stalled, apply engine oil to the surfaces of
each plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.
A. Friction and Steel Plates
• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the contact

area of the push rod holder.
• Check the release shaft lever position by measur-
ing the position distance between the lever and the
j • Install the push rod holder. cable bracket while pushing the release shaft lever
lightly forward.
A. Apply Molybdenum Disulfide Grease.

B. Push Rod Holder A. Release Shaft Lever
C. Push Rod B. Push forward
C. Position Distance
• Install the clutch pressure plate and springs. D. Cable Bracket
• Tighten
torque.
the clutch spring bolts to the specified E. Generator Cover
Clutch Spring Bolts Tightening Torque

8.8 N·m (0.9 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)
• Iflectthethelever position is not within the standard, se-

correct thickness of adjusting washer ac-
Release Shaft Lever Position and Adjusting
Washer Selection
cording to the following table. Position Judg- Washers Quan- j
• Remove the push rod holder as necessary and
reinstall the clutch.
Distance ment Thickness tity
68.6 a 76.4 mm 1.5 mm
Standard 1
(2.70 a 3.01 in.) (0.06 in.)
More than 76.4 1.0 mm
Too big 1
mm (3.01 in.) (0.04 in.)
Less than 68.6 1.0 mm
Too small 2
mm (2.70 in.) (0.04 in.)
• Place a new clutch cover gasket in position with a

thin layer of grease and tighten the bolts.
• When installing the brake pedal, apply the grease
to the contact area of the brake pedal pivot.
• Install the parts removed.
• Check the engine oil level.
A. Adjusting Washer
B. Push Rod Holder
C. Needle Bearing
Adjusting Washer
Thickness Part Number
1.5 mm (0.06 in.) 92200-1548
1.0 mm (0.04 in.) 92200-0045
Valve Clearance
• Remove
tion).
the fuel tank (see the “Spark Plug” sec-
j Valve and valve seat wear decreases valve clear-

• Remove the spark plug cap, cylinder head cover
bolts, and cylinder head cover.
ance, upsetting valve timing.
NOTICE
If valve clearance is left unadjusted, wear will
eventually cause the valves to remain partly
open, which lowers performances, burns the
valves and valve seats, and may cause seri-
ous engine damage.
Valve clearance for each valve should be checked

and adjusted in accordance with the Periodic Main-
tenance Chart.
NOTE
żIf the engine is hot, wait until the engine cools. A. Spark Plug Cap
Valve clearance must be checked when the en- B. Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
gine is cold (room temperature). C. Cylinder Head Cover
Valve Clearance Inspection

• Remove the seat and left and right side covers.
• Remove the head cover gasket. • Remove the two caps from the generator cover.
j
A. Head Cover Gasket A. Caps

B. Gasket
• Bring the piston to the Top Dead Center (TDC) of

its compression stroke to inspect the valve clear-
• Atsprockets
this point, the timing marks on the camshaft
must be almost aligned with the cylinder
ance (the position at the end of the compression head upper surface as shown in the figure.
j stroke) by aligning the top mark with the groove on
the generator cover while turning the crankshaft
counter clockwise.
A. Timing Mark
B. Camshaft Sprockets
C. Cylinder Head Upper Surface
A. Top Mark
B. Groove on Generator Cover
C. Crankshaft
D. Crankshaft Rotation Direction
• Using the thickness gauge, measuring the clear-

ance between each cam lobe and valve lifter, for
a competent mechanic following the instructions in
the Service Manual.
all four valves.
Cylinder Head Cover Installation j
NOTE • Apply silicon sealant to the cylinder head as
żRecord the measured valves clearance. shown.
A. Silicone Sealant
A. Thickness Gauge
Standard Valve Clearance (Between cam and

valve lifter)
Exhaust 0.17 a 0.22 mm (0.0067 a 0.0087 in.)
Inlet 0.10 a 0.15 mm (0.0039 a 0.0059 in.)
• Ifrange,
the valve clearance is not within the specified
adjust by an authorized Kawasaki dealer or
• Replace the head cover gasket with a new one. • Make sure that the upper chain guide is bottomed
• Replace the
Install the head cover gasket on the cylinder head. to the cylinder head cover.
j • one, and installspark
it.
plug hole gasket with a new
A. Upper Chain Guide

B. Cylinder Head Cover
A. Head Cover Gasket
B. Spark Plug Hole Gasket NOTICE
Unless the upper chain guide is bottomed,
the camshaft chain could push the cylinder
head cover upward, leading to an oil leak.
• Install the cylinder head cover.

• Install the washer with the metal side upwards to
the cylinder head cover, and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque.
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts Tightening Torque
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
• Install the two caps to the generator cover.

• Install the spark plug cap and the parts removed. Exhaust System
The exhaust system, in particular the silencer, is
j
designed to reduce exhaust noise and conduct the
exhaust gases away from the rider while minimizing
power loss. If carbon has built up inside the silencer,
exhaust efficiency is reduced, causing engine per-
formance to drop.
If the silencer is badly damaged, dented, cracked
or rusted, replace it. Replace the silencer wool if the
exhaust noise becomes too loud or engine perfor-
mance drops.
Silencer Wool Replacement • Remove the silencer cover with the plastic mallet.
• Remove the silencer cover bolts.
j • Remove the silencer mounting bolt, collars, and
damper.
A. Plastic Mallet
B. Silencer Cover
A. Silencer Cover Bolts

B. Silencer Mounting Bolt
• Replace the silencer wool with new one. • Remove the silicone sealant attaching on the si-
lencer cover and silencer pipe.
• Arrange the shape of the silencer wool and install
the silencer cover to the silencer pipe.
j
A. Silencer Wool
A. Silencer Cover
B. Silencer Pipe
C. Silencer Wool
• Check that the exhaust port of the silencer cover

align with the silencer pipe.
• Tighten the silencer cover bolt and apply the sil-
icone sealant (Part No: J5016-0001) to the joint
part of the silencer cover and silencer pipe.
j
A. Silencer Pipe Top End

B. Silencer End Cover A. Silencer Cover
B. Silencer Pipe
C. Silencer Cover Bolt
D. Silicone Sealant
NOTE
żIf the threaded holes of the silencer cover and si-
lencer pipe do not align, remove the clamp bolts
and silencer pipe mounting bolt.
żRemove the silencer pipe from the body and install
the silencer cover to the silencer pipe.
Drive Chain
For safety and to prevent excessive wear, the drive
j
chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated be-
fore riding. If the chain becomes badly worn or mal-
adjusted - either too loose or too tight - it could jump
off the sprockets or break.
WARNING
A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprock-
ets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock
the rear wheel, severely damaging the motor-
cycle and causing it to go out of control. In-
A. Clamp Bolt spect the chain for damage and proper ad-
B. Silencer Pipe Mounting Bolt
justment before each ride.
C. Silencer Pipe
• Reinstall the removed parts.

Silencer Pipe Mounting Bolt Tightening Torque
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Silencer Mounting Bolt Tightening Torque

20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Silencer Clamp Bolt Tightening Torque

16.5 N·m (1.7 kgf·m, 12 ft·lb)
Silencer Cover Bolts Tightening Torque

12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)
Chain Slack Inspection • Inwheel
addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear
• Raise the rear wheel off the ground, then rotate
the rear wheel to find the place where the chain is
to inspect the drive chain for damaged
rollers, loose pins and links and the sprockets
j tightest (because it wears unevenly). for unevenly or excessively worn and damaged
• Push up the drive chain in the middle of the up- teeth.
per chain run to measure the chain slack. The
distance between the bottom of the chain and the
• If there are any such defects, replace the drive
chain and/or the sprockets.
swingarm (at the end of the chain slipper) should
be within the standard value.
Drive Chain Slack
Standard 52 a 58 mm (2.0 a 2.3 in.)
• Adjust
cation.
the drive chain if its slack is out of specifi-
A. Chain Slack
Chain Slack Adjustment

• Remove the cotter pin from the rear axle nut.
• locknuts. rear axle nut and both chain adjuster
Loosen the
j
• Turn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until the
drive chain slack (measured between the chain
and the swingarm) is within the standard value.
For the rear wheel to be properly aligned, the
notch of the left chain adjuster should align with
the same swingarm mark that the notch of the
right chain adjuster aligns with.
Drive Chain Slack
52 a 58 mm (2.0 a 2.3 in.)
A. Axle Nut
B. Adjusting Bolt
C. Locknut
D. Marks
E. Notch
F. Cotter Pin
NOTE
żWheel alignment can also be checked using the
straightedge or string method.
WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in ab-
normal wear, and may result in an unsafe
riding condition. Align the rear wheel using
the marks on the swingarm or measuring the
distance between the center of the axle and
swingarm pivot.
• Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts. NOTE

• Torque the axle nut to the specified torque. żWhen inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the
j Rear Axle Nut Tightening Torque nut do not align with the cotter pin hole in the
108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 80 ft·lb) axle shaft, tighten the nut clockwise up to the next
alignment.
• Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again żIt should be within 30 degree.
at the tightest position, and readjust it if necessary. żLoosen once and tighten again when the slot goes
past the nearest hole.
• Install a new cotter pin through the axle nut and
axle, and spread its ends.
A. Turning Clockwise
A. Cotter Pin
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident re-
sulting in serious injury or death. Tighten
the axle nut to the proper torque and install
a new cotter pin.
• Check the rear brake effect.

NOTE • Measure the 20-link section on a straight part of

żWhen riding in wet and muddy conditions, mud the chain from the center of the 1st pin to the cen-
ter of the 21st pin. If the length exceeds the ser-
sticks to the chain and sprockets, resulting in an j
overly tight chain, which can cause it to break. vice limit, the chain should be replaced. Since
To prevent this, adjust the chain slack (measured overworn sprockets will cause a new chain to wear
between the chain and the swingarm) to 62 a 68 faster, inspect both the engine and rear sprockets
mm (2.4 a 2.7 in.). whenever the chain is replaced, and replace them
if necessary.
Chain Wear Inspection
When the chain has reached its wear limit (i.e.,
when it has stretched by 2% of its original length),
it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced.
Since it is impractical to measure the entire length of
the chain, determine the degree of wear by measur-
ing a 20-link section of the chain.
• Tighten the chain either by using the chain ad-
justers or by hanging a 10 kg (20 lb) weight on the
chain.
A. Weight
B. Tape Measure
Drive Chain 20-Link Section

317.5 a 318.2 mm (12.50
Standard length
a 12.53 in.)
Wear limit 323 mm (12.7 in.)
NOTE Chain Guide Wear Inspection
żThe drive system was designed for use with a • Visually inspect the drive chain guide and replace
it if excessively worn or damaged.
j DAIDO D.I.D 520DMA4 114-link chain. For maxi-
mum stretch resistance and safety, a genuine part
must be used for replacement.
żTo minimize any chance of the Master Link coming
apart, the master link clip must be installed with
the closed end of the “U” pointing in the direction
of chain rotation.
A. Chain Guide
A. Master Link Clip

B. Direction of Rotation
Chain Slipper Wear Inspection Sprocket Wear Inspection

• Visually inspect the front end of the chain slippers
on the swingarm and replace them if worn or dam-
• Visually inspect the sprocket teeth and replace the
sprocket if its teeth are worn or damaged.
aged.
j
Sprocket Tooth Wear
A. Chain Slippers
B. Swingarm A. Good Teeth
B. Worn Teeth
C. Damaged Teeth
NOTE
żSprocket wear is exaggerated in the illustration.
Chain Lubrication
Lubrication of the drive chain is necessary after rid- Handlebar
ing in the rain or mud, or any time the chain appears
j dry. A heavy oil such as SAE90 is preferred to a To suit various riding positions, the handlebar
lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and can be adjusted by turning the handlebar holders
provide better lubrication. around.
• Apply oil to the side of the rollers so that it will • Remove the handlebar pad.
penetrate to the rollers and bushings. • Check the handlebar for bent or crack.
• Wipe off any excess oil. • Remove the handlebar clamp bolts, the clamps
and the handlebar.
A. Handlebar Clamps
B. Clamp Bolts
C. Handlebar
• Loosen the handlebar holder nuts, turn the han- • Put the handlebar on the handlebar holders.
dlebar holders 180°, and securely tighten the han- • Check the
Mount handlebar clamps.
dlebar holder nuts. • the left and the
that gauge on the handlebar is out of
right handlebar clamps equally.
j
A. Handlebar Holders
B. Handlebar Holder Nuts A. Handlebar Clamps
B. Clamp Bolts
C. Gap
D. Supporting Bar
• Tighten the front and rear bolts of the handlebar

clamps equally. If the handlebar clamps are cor-
rectly installed, there will be even gap on the front
and rear side of the clamp after the bolts torqued.
• Do not disassemble the supporting bar on the han-
dlebar.
Handlebar Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
• Check the front brake for the proper brake effect,

or no brake drag. Brakes
j NOTE Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compen-
żTighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times sated for and has no effect on the brake lever or
to ensure even tightening torque. pedal action. There are no parts on the brakes that
require adjustment except brake lever position.
Brake Lever Position
The brake lever position can be adjusted to suit
the rider’s preference.
• To adjust the brake lever position, loosen the lock-
nut, and turn the adjuster to either side with a
wrench.
• After adjustment, tighten the locknut securely.
A. Brake Lever
B. Adjuster
C. Locknut
• Test the braking power and check that there is no

brake drag.
NOTICE
Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted sur-
WARNING face. j
Do not use fluid from a container that has
Air in the brake lines diminish braking perfor- been left open or that has been unsealed for
mance and can cause an accident resulting a long time.
in injury or death. If the brake lever or pedal Check for fluid leakage around the brake sys-
feels mushy when it is applied, there might tem fittings.
be air in the brake lines or the brake may be Check for brake hose damage.
defective. Have the brake checked immedi-
ately by an authorized Kawasaki dealer.
Brake Fluid Level Inspection (Front and Rear
Reservoirs)
Disc Brake Fluid With the front or rear reservoir positioned horizon-
Inspect the brake fluid level in the front and rear tally, the brake fluid must always be above the mini-
reservoirs and change the brake fluid in accordance mum level line.
with the Periodic Maintenance Chart. The brake fluid
should also be changed when contaminated with dirt
or water.
Use only heavy-duty brake fluid as follows.
Front brake fluid : DOT 3 or DOT 4

Rear brake fluid : DOT 4
NOTE
żThe motorcycle is shipped with brake fluid DOT4
in the brake system.
A. Front Reservoir
B. Minimum Level Line
• Iflowthethebrake fluid in the front or rear reservoir is be-

minimum level line, check for fluid leaks
in the brake line and fill the reservoir to the maxi-
j mum level line. (The step inside the front and rear
reservoirs indicate the maximum level.)
A. Rear Reservoir
B. Minimum Level Line
A. Front Reservoir
B. Maximum Level Line
Brake Pad Wear Inspection

Inspect the brake pads for wear in accordance with
the Periodic Maintenance chart. If the thickness of
any pad in any (front or rear) brake caliper is less
j
than 1 mm (0.04 in.), have both pads in the caliper
replaced as a set. Pad replacement should be done
by an authorized Kawasaki dealer.
Usable Brake Pad Range
A. Rear Reservoir
B. Maximum Level Line
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can
reduce the brake system’s effectiveness
and cause an accident resulting in injury
or death. Do not mix two brands of brake
fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line
completely if the brake fluid must be refilled A. Lining Thickness
but the type and brand of the brake fluid that B. 1 mm (0.04 in.)
is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
Steering Adjustment
Steering • Raise the front wheel off the ground using a jack
(special tool).
j The steering should always be kept adjusted so • Remove the number plate.
that the handlebar will turn freely but not have ex- • Remove the handlebar.
cessive play. • bolts.
Loosen the left and right front fork upper clamp
Steering Inspection
• To check the steering adjustment, raise the front • Remove the steering stem head nut, and raise the
front fork upper clamp.
wheel off the ground using a jack (special tool).
• Push the handlebar lightly to either side. If the
handlebar continues moving under its own mo-
mentum, the steering is not too tight.
• Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the
lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push
and rock the front fork back and forth as shown.
If play is felt, the steering is too loose and needs
to be adjusted.
A. Front Fork Upper Clamp

B. Steering Stem Head Nut
C. Front Fork Upper Clamp Bolts
• Turn the steering stem locknut with a stem nut

wrench (special tool: 57001-1100) to obtain the
Front Fork Upper Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
proper adjustment.
j
NOTE
żTighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times
to ensure even tightening torque.
• Install the handlebar and apply the specified

torque, check the steering again and readjust it if
necessary.
Handlebar Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
NOTE
żTighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times
to ensure even tightening torque.
A. Steering Stem Locknut
B. Stem Nut Wrench (P.N. 57001-1100) • Check the front brake for the proper brake effect,
or no brake drag.
• Install
position.
the front fork upper clamp to the original
• Apply the specified torques to the steering stem

head nut and front fork upper clamp bolts.
Steering Stem Head Nut Tightening Torque
98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
NOTICE
Front Suspension If the inner tube is badly bent or creased,
j replace it. Excessive bending, followed by
Front Fork Inspection subsequent straitening, can weaken the in-
• Holding the brake lever, pump the front fork back
and forth manually to check for smooth operation.
ner tube.
• Visually inspect the front fork for oil leakage, scor-

ing or scratches on the outer surface of the inner
Front Fork Adjustment
Any of the following front fork adjustments should
tube. be made to tune the front suspension to the rider’s
• If necessary, repair or replace by an authorized
Kawasaki dealer.
weight and the condition of the track.
Basically, there are six adjustments you can make
to the front fork.
• Air Pressure
Air pressure acts as a progressive spring over the
entire fork travel range. Since the air pressure in the
fork legs increases with normal use, the fork action
on your KX will get stiffer as the race progresses.
Therefore, it is not recommended to increase the air
pressure for additional springing. The KX forks are
designed to function without added air.
• Rebound Damping Adjustment
This adjustment affects how quickly the fork re-
bounds. Depending on the model, the fork rebound
damping adjuster has at least 20 positions. The fully
seated position (adjuster turned fully clockwise) is
A. Inner Tube the hardest setting. Turning the adjuster 13 clicks
counterclockwise from the fully seated position is the
standard setting, turning it counterclockwise 20 or
more clicks (depending on the model) is the softest
setting.
• Compression Damping Adjustment
This adjustment affects how quickly the fork com- Air Pressure Adjustment
presses. Depending on the model, the fork com- The standard air pressure in the front fork legs is
pression damping adjuster has at least 22 positions. atmospheric (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm², 0 psi). Air pressure
The fully seated position (adjuster turned fully clock- in the fork legs increase with normal use, so the fork
j
wise) is the hardest setting. Turning the adjuster 11 action stiffens during operation. Release air pres-
clicks counterclockwise from the fully seated posi- sure from the fork legs prior to each race through the
tion is the standard setting, turning it counterclock- pressure relief screw located in each front fork cap.
wise 22 or more clicks (depending on the model) is Make sure the front forks are fully extended with the
the softest setting. front wheel off the ground when releasing the pres-
• Fork Oil Amount Adjustment sure.
The fork oil amount affects only the final 100 mm
(4 in.) of fork travel. A higher oil amount will make
• Raise the front wheel off the ground using a jack
(special tool).
the fork rebound more quickly. A lower oil amount
will make the fork rebound more slowly.
• Remove the screw on each front fork top plug to
let the air pressure equalize. Then, reinstall the
• Fork Springs
Optional springs, softer and stiffer than standard,
screws.
are available.
• Fork Clamp Position
Steering is greatly affected by the fork clamp posi-
tion (how much the outer fork tubes protrude above
the upper fork clamp). The less the fork tube pro-
trudes, the lighter the front end becomes and the
greater the tendency for understeering and washout
due to weight biasing. Increasing the amount of fork
tube protrusion has opposite effects. Be sure that
the front tire does not touch the fender when the fork
is fully compressed. Make this adjustment in 10 mm
(0.4 in.) steps.
NOTICE A. Screw
The right and left fork tubes must be adjusted
evenly.
Rebound Damping Adjustment Rebound Damping Adjuster Settings
• Clean the bottom of the fork tubes.
j • To adjust the rebound damping, turn the adjuster
on each front fork top plug with a flat-head screw-
driver. Adjust the rebound damping to suit your
preference under certain conditions.
NOTICE
Do not force the rebound and compression
damping force adjusters beyond the fully
seated position, or the adjusting mechanism
may be damaged.
A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully

Clockwise)
B. Softer (Counterclockwise)
C. Harder (Clockwise)
D. Standard Setting
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range
-20 clicks or more.
Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting
10 clicks *
* Counterclockwise from the fully seated position

A. Rebound Damping Adjuster
NOTICE
evenly.
• Install the caps on the bottom of the fork tubes. Compression Damping Adjuster Settings
Compression Damping Adjustment
• To adjust the compression damping, turn the ad-
juster on the each front fork cylinder valve with
j
a flat-head screwdriver. Adjust the compression
damping to suit your preference under certain con-
ditions.
NOTICE
may be damaged.

Clockwise)
D. Standard Setting
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range
-22 clicks or more.
Standard Compression Damping Adjuster
Setting
10 clicks *
* Counterclockwise from the fully seated position
A. Compression Damping Adjuster NOTICE

evenly.
Front Fork Oil Change NOTE
• Thoroughly clean the fork before disassembly. żSet the rebound and compression damping set-
j ting to the softest settings before disassembly to
NOTICE prevent the needle of adjusters from damping.
Be careful not to scratch the inner tube and Record the setting before turning the adjuster.
not to damage the dust seal.
Avoid scratching or damaging the inner tube • Loosen the front fork top plug with the top plug
wrench, 49 mm (special tool: 57001-1653).
or the dust seal. Use a mild detergent and
sponge out dirt with plenty of water. NOTE
żDo not take off the top plug.
• Loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts.
A. Upper Clamp Bolt A. Front Fork Top Plug

B. Top Plug Wrench, 49 mm (P.N. 57001-1653)
• Support the motorcycle using a jack (special tool). • Remove the brake caliper from the fork leg to be
• left front axle
Unscrew the front axle nut, and then loosen the
clamp bolts.
removed, and rest the caliper on some kind of
stand so that it does not dangle.
j
• Remove the brake hose holder by removing the
brake hose holder mounting bolts.
• Remove the fork protector by removing the fork
protector mounting bolts.
A. Front Axle Nut

B. Left Front Axle Clamp Bolt
A. Brake Caliper
B. Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
C. Brake Hose Holder
D. Brake Hose Holder Mounting Bolts
E. Fork Protector
F. Fork Protector Mounting Bolts
• Remove the front fork protector by removing the

front fork protector mounting bolts.
• Loosen the right front axle clamp bolts.
• Using a jack to raise the front wheel off the ground.
• Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off
the collar and cap from each side of the front hub.
• Loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts.
j NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the
disc facing down. This can damage or warp
the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so the
disc does not touch the ground.
A. Front Fork Lower Clamp Bolts
A. Right Front Axle Clamp Bolts

B. Front Axle
C. Collar
D. Cap
E. Front Fork Protector
F. Mounting Bolts
• Remove
ing it.
the front fork by pulling down while twist- • Using the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
57001-1653), remove the fork top plug from the
outer tube and slowly slide down the outer tube.
j
A. Pull down by twisting.

B. Front Fork A. Top Plug Wrench, 49 mm (P.N. 57001-1653)
B. Front Fork Top Plug
C. Outer Tube
D. Slide down
• Place a drain pan under the front fork and drain

fork oil.
• Raise the outer tube and temporarily install the
fork top plug to the outer tube using the top plug
j NOTE
żPump the fork tube several times to discharge the
fork oil.
A. Front Fork Top Plug

B. Outer Tube
C. Top Plug Wrench, 49 mm (P.N. 57001-1653)
A. Fork Oil
• Protect the axle holder with a thick rag and secure

it with a vise.
• Loosen the adjuster assembly completely.
NOTE
żWhen removing the adjuster assembly, do not j
force to loosen it at once using an impact wrench.
A. Axle Holder Part

B. Protect
C. Vise
A. Adjuster Assembly
WARNING
Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam- • Compress the outer tube by hands and in-
stall the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
age it which will affect riding stability. 57001-1653) between the axle holder bottom and
Do not clamp the axle holder too tight. locknut.
NOTE
żProtect the axle holder with a rag when using a
vise.
WARNING • Remove the push rod.

The fork spring applies pressure to the ad-
j juster assembly and can eject the special
tool with substantial force if the tool is not
properly and securely placed. Be sure the
tool is fully in place as shown in the photo,
and keep fingers away to avoid getting them
pinched between the tool, adjuster assembly
and axle holder.
• Hold the locknut with a wrench and remove the

adjuster assembly.
A. Push Rod
• With the outer tube compressed by hand, remove

the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool: 57001
-1653).
NOTICE
Removing the locknut and pushing the pis-
ton rod thread into the cylinder unit will dam-
age the oil seal. Do not remove the locknut
from the piston rod.
A. Top Plug Wrench
Be careful of reaction force from the fork
B. Axle Holder Bottom spring when removing the top plug wrench.
C. Locknut Hold the cylinder unit tight enough so that
D. Wrench the locknut does not damage the fork leg.
E. Adjuster Assembly
• Remove the fork leg from vise.

• wrench (special
Remove the front fork top plug with the top plug
tool).
j
A. Top Plug Wrench, 49 mm (P.N. 57001-1653)

B. Outer Tube
• Remove the cylinder unit and fork spring from the

outer tube.
• Secure the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
57001-1653) with a vise and hold the fork cylinder
unit with the top plug wrench.
j NOTICE • Loosen the base valve assembly completely with
Disassembling the cylinder unit can lead to
trouble. Do not disassemble the cylinder -1705).
unit.

B. Fork Cylinder Unit
A. Cylinder Unit C. Base Valve Assembly
B. Fork Spring D. Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm (P.N. 57001-1705)
C. Outer Tube
D. Piston Rod
E. Spacer
• Remove
der unit.
the base valve assembly from the cylin- NOTICE
Disassembling the base valve assembly can
NOTICE lead to trouble. Do not disassemble the base j
valve assembly.
Be careful not to damage the bushing of the
base valve.
• Drain the fork oil from the cylinder unit by pumping
the piston rod several times.
A. Base Valve Assembly

B. Cylinder Unit A. Fork Oil
B. Cylinder Unit
NOTE
żSlowly compress the piston rod until it stops so
that the base valve assembly can be removed
easily.
• Hold the front fork at the inverted position for more

than 20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.
• Clean the threads of cylinder unit and base valve
assembly.
j
A. Threads
• Replace the O-ring on the base valve assembly

and cylinder unit with new ones.
• With the piston rod fully compressed, pour the
specified amount of fork oil.
• Apply specified fork oil to the O-rings and bushings
on the base valve assembly.
NOTE j
żPut a hand over the two oil holes to prevent oil
leak.
A. O-ring
B. Bushing
A. Fork Oil
B. Oil Holes
C. Cylinder Unit
Recommended Fork Oil

KAYABA 01
Standard Fork Oil Amount (Cylinder Unit)

198 mL (6.7 US oz.)
• Pump
air.
the piston rod slowly several times to expel • Gently install the base valve assembly to the cylin-
der unit.
j • Hold the piston rod immovable with the fully com-
pressed position. NOTICE
Do not damage the bushings when assem-
bling the base valve.
A. Compressed Position
A. Base Valve Assembly

B. Cylinder Unit
NOTE
żPut a hand over the two oil holes to prevent oil
leak.
• Screw in the base valve assembly in the cylinder

unit when the piston rod extends.
NOTE NOTE
żWhen it is hard to screw in the base valve assem- żCheck if the locknut is completely screwed on to
bly, pull down the piston rod a little. the piston rod. j
• Hold the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
57001-1653) with a vise.
• Protect the piston rod end with a rag to prevent
fork damage.
• Holding the cylinder unit with the top plug wrench,
36 mm (special tool: 57001-1705), torque the
• Discharge the extra oil off the cylinder unit by
pumping the piston rod to full stroke.
base valve assembly to the specified torque.
NOTICE
Be careful not to bend or damage the pis-
ton rod when the piston rod is stroked. Ser-
vice carefully because oil flies out from the
oil hole of the cylinder unit.

B. Cylinder Unit
C. Base Valve Assembly
D. Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm (P.N. 57001-1705)
Base Valve Assembly Tightening Torque

27.5 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20 ft·lb) A. Piston Rod End
B. Rag
C. Pump the Piston
NOTE • With the cylinder unit in horizontal position, slide
żCheck the piston rod sliding surface for damage. the piston rod by hand to inspect it if operating
j żApply fork oil to the piston rod sliding surface. smoothly.
• Drain the extra oil from the cylinder unit oil hole. • Ifvalve
the piston rod is not extend, remove the base
assembly and perform the air bleeding (pour
the specified amount fork oil and discharge an ex-
cess of oil).
A. Oil Hole
A. Slide Piston Rod.

B. Piston Rod
NOTICE
Be careful not to bend or damage the piston
rod when the piston rod is stroked.
• Make sure about 16 mm (0.63 in.)

thread is exposed from the locknut.
of push rod • Completely wipe off the fork oil from the spring and
cylinder unit.
• Insert the spring and cylinder unit to the outer tube. j
A. 16 mm (0.63 in.)
B. Locknut A. Cylinder Unit
B. Fork Spring
C. Outer Tube
D. Piston Rod
E. Spacer
• Temporarily tighten the fork top plug by us-

ing the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
• Compress the outer tube by hands and in-
stall the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
57001-1653). 57001-1653) between the axle holder bottom and
j locknut.
WARNING
The fork spring applies pressure to the ad-
juster assembly and can eject the special
tool with substantial force if the tool is not
properly and securely placed. Be sure the
tool is fully in place as shown in the photo,
and keep fingers away to avoid getting them
pinched between the tool, adjuster assembly
and axle holder.

B. Outer Tube
• Clamp the axle holder with a vise.

NOTE
żProtect the axle holder with a rag when using a
vise.
WARNING
Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam-
age it which will affect riding stability. A. Top Plug Wrench, 49 mm (P.N. 57001-1653)
Do not clamp the axle holder too tight.
• Insert the push rod into the piston rod.
NOTE • Turn the locknut counterclockwise until it contacts

żCheck the push rod installation by turning the push with the adjuster assembly.
rod right and left. • With the locknut held immovable using a wrench,
tighten the adjuster assembly to the specified
j
torque.
Adjuster Assembly Locknut Tightening Torque
28.5 N·m (2.9 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
A. Push Rod
• Replace the O-ring on the adjuster assembly with

new ones and apply specified fork oil to the O-ring.
• Slowly turn the adjuster assembly clockwise until
resistance is felt and check the clearance between A. Adjuster Assembly
the locknut and adjuster assembly for more than 1 B. Locknut
mm (0.04 in.). C. More Than 1 mm (0.04 in.)
• With the outer tube compressed by hands, remove

• Using the top plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool:
57001-1653), remove the fork top plug from the
-1653). outer tube and slowly slide down the outer tube.
j
• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the
threads of a adjuster assembly.
• Pour
tube.
the specified amount of fork oil into the outer
• Torque
torque.
the adjuster assembly to the specified
A. Outer Tube
B. Fork Oil
A. Adjuster Assembly
NOTICE
Adjuster Assembly Tightening Torque
Be sure the oil capacity is the same in both
55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m, 40 ft·lb) fork legs.
Recommended Fork Oil

KAYABA 01 or equivalent
Standard Fork Oil Amount • Tighten the front fork top plug with using the top
plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool: 57001-1653) to
Fork spring 4.7 N/mm (0.48 kgf/mm)
the specified torque.
Fork oil amount 335 mL (11.3 US oz.) j
Adjustable 320 a 380 mL (10.8 a 12.8 US
Range oz.)
• When changing the fork spring, the oil quantity is

as shown in the table.
Standard Oil 333 mL
SOFT: 4.6 Quantity (11.3 US oz.)
N/mm
(K = 0.48 320 a 380 mL
Adjustable
kgf/mm) (10.8 a 12.8 US
Range
oz.)
Standard Oil 336 mL
HARD: 4.8 Quantity (11.4 US oz.)
N/mm
(K = 0.49 320 a 380 mL A. Front Fork Top Plug
Adjustable
kgf/mm) (10.8 a 12.8 US B. Outer Tube
Range C. Top Plug Wrench, 49 mm (P.N. 57001-1653)
oz.)
Front Fork Top Plug Tightening Torque
• Raise the outer tube and temporarily install the
fork top plug to the outer tube using the top plug 30 N·m (3.1 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)
• Install the front forks to the motorcycle. NOTE
• Tighten the front fork lower clamp bolts to the
specified torque. żThe torque of fork top plug is specified to 30 N·m
(3.1 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb) however, when you use the top
Front Fork Lower Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque plug wrench, 49 mm (special tool: 57001-1653),
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb) reduce the torque to 90% of the specified value
[27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20 ft·lb)] due to the distance
between the center of the square hole, where the
torque wrench is fitted, and that of the octagonal
hole of the wrench.
• Install the brake caliper to the fork leg, and tighten
the brake caliper bolts to the specified torque.
j żThis torque value [27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20 ft·lb)] is Brake Caliper Bolts Tightening Torque
applicable when you use a torque wrench whose
length gives leverage of approximately 310 mm 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
between the grip point to the center of the coupling
square. • Take
pads.
out wood wedge between the disc brake
• Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolts to the • Apply grease to the oil seals of the wheel.
specified torque. • side ofthe
Install caps and collars on the left and right
the hub.
Front Fork Upper Clamp Bolts Tightening Torque
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb) • Put the front wheel assembly between the fork
legs, and insert the front brake disc into the front
brake pads.
• Insert the front axle from the right side of the mo-
torcycle.
• Tighten the front axle nut to the specified torque.
Front Axle Nut Tightening Torque
79 N·m (8.1 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
A. Top Plug Wrench

B. Distance
• Tighten the left front axle clamp bolt to the speci- • Install the parts removed.
fied torque. • leg, pump
Before tightening the clamp bolts on the right fork
the forks up and down 4 or 5 times to
Left Front Axle Clamp Bolt Tightening Torque
allow the right fork leg to find a neutral position on
j
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb) the front axle.
NOTE
żDo not apply the front brake during this process
to stop the motorcycle from rolling forward. Put a
block in front of the wheel to stop it from moving.
A. Collars
B. Caps
C. Axle
D. Right Front Axle Clamp Bolts
E. Axle Nut
F. Left Front Axle Clamp Bolts A. Pump up and down
G. Oil Seal B. Block
NOTE • Tighten the right axle clamp bolts to the specified

żTighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times torque.
to ensure even tightening torque. Right Front Axle Clamp Bolt Tightening Torque
• Remove
cycle.
the jack and stand supporting the motor- 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE Fork Clamp Position Adjustment
żTighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times Steering is greatly affected by the fork clamp posi-
tion (how much the outer fork tubes protrude above
j to ensure even tightening torque.
the upper fork clamp). The less the fork tube pro-
• Check the front brake for good braking power and
no brake drag.
trudes, the lighter the front end becomes and the
greater the tendency for understeering and washout
due to weight biasing. Increasing the amount of fork
WARNING tube protrusion has opposite effects.
After servicing, it takes several applications Be sure that the front tire does not touch the fender
of the brake lever before the brake pads con- when the fork is fully compressed. Make this adjust-
tact the disc, which could result in increased ment in 10 mm (0.39 in.) steps.
stopping distance and cause an accident re-
sulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to NOTICE
ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is The right and left fork tubes must be adjusted
obtained by pumping the lever until the pads evenly.
are against the disc.
• Adjust the compression

force adjusters.
and rebound damping
Optional Fork Springs

Various fork springs are available to achieve suit-
able front fork action in accordance with the rider’s
weight and track condition.
Harder springs stiffen the fork action and acceler-
ate the rebound damping.
Softer springs soften the fork action and slow down
the rebound damping.
A. Standard Fork Clamp Position

Standard Fork Clamp Position

10 mm (0.39 in.)* Rear Suspension (UNI-TRAK®)
This motorcycle’s rear suspension system is called
j
* below the surface of the top plug
“UNI-TRAK®” and consists of a rear shock absorber
NOTE unit, a swingarm, two lever rods and a lever.
żTighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times The operating characteristics of the UNI-TRAK®
to ensure even tightening torque. suspension are similar to those of the front fork.
However, a linkage system is used to achieve pro-
gressive springing characteristics.
Rear Shock Absorber Inspection
• Pump the seat down and up by 4 or 5 times, and
inspect the smooth stroke.
• Iftheit oildoes not smoothly or noise is found, inspect
leak and rear shock absorber mounting.
• Visually
leakage.
inspect the rear shock absorber for oil
• IfKawasaki
necessary, repair or replace by an authorized
dealer.
Rear Shock Absorber Adjustment
The spring preload of the shock absorber can be
adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an op-
tional one to suit various riding conditions. In addi-
tion, the damping force can be adjusted easily, mak-
ing it unnecessary to change the oil viscosity.
Rebound Damping Adjustment Rebound Damping Adjuster Settings
To adjust the rear shock absorber rebound damp-
ing, turn the rebound damping adjuster at the bottom
j of the rear shock absorber with a flat-head screw-
driver.

Clockwise)
A. Rebound Damping Adjuster D. Standard Setting
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in * Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-33
accordance with the following table. clicks or more
Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting
18th position*
*Counterclockwise from the fully seated position

NOTICE Compression Damping Adjustment (Gas

Reservoir)
There are two adjustments you can make to the
rear shock absorber gas reservoir.
j
To adjust the high speed compression damping,
may be damaged.
turn the high speed compression damping adjuster.
To adjust the low speed compression damping,
NOTE turn the low speed compression damping adjuster
żAdjustment of the rebound damping adjuster for with a flat head screwdriver.
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in
the rear suspension will slightly affect the com-
pression damping force. Always make any damp- accordance with the following table.
ing adjustments in small steps and test their ef-
fects before using them in competition.
A. Compression Damping Adjuster for High Speed

B. Compression Damping Adjuster for Low Speed
High Speed Compression Damping Adjuster

Setting
0 a 2 turns out
If the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, ad- * Counterclockwise from the fully seated position
just it in accordance with the following table.
Low Speed Compression Damping Adjuster NOTICE
j Settings Do not force the rebound and compression
may be damaged.
NOTE
żAdjustment of the rebound damping adjuster for
the rear suspension will slightly affect the com-
pression damping force. Always make any damp-
ing adjustments in small steps and test their ef-
fects before using them in competition.
Spring Preload Adjustment

• Remove the seat and both side covers.
A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully • section). the silencer (see the “Exhaust System”
Remove
Clockwise)
• Remove the rear frame and air cleaner box (see
the “Throttle Body” section).
D. Standard Setting
NOTICE
* Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-22
clicks or more If the clamp is not removed from the air
cleaner housing, the rear shock absorber
Standard Compression Damping Adjuster spring may be damaged.
Setting
High speed Low speed
1 1/8 turns out* 10th clicks*
• Raise the rear wheel off the ground using a jack

(special tool).
• Using the stem nut wrench (special tool: 57001
-1100), turn the spring preload adjusting nut as re-
• Using the hook wrenches (special tool: 57001
-1101), loosen the locknut on the rear shock ab-
quired. Turning the adjusting nut down increases
the spring preload.
j
sorber.
A. Stem Nut Wrench (P.N. 57001-1100)

A. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut B. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut
B. Locknut
C. Hook Wrenches (P.N. 57001-1101) • The standard adjusting nut position from the cen-
ter of the upper rear shock absorber pivot point is
129.5 mm (5.10 in.).
• The adjustable range is as shown in the table be-
low.
Rear Shock
Absorber Spring
Adjustable Range • After installing the rear frame bolt (upper side)
temporarily, install the air cleaner duct clamp to
the air cleaner duct while bringing down the rear
j K = 52 N/mm 126.5 a 138.5 mm (4.78 a 5.45
frame a little. Make sure the tab of the air cleaner
(K = 5.5 kgf/mm) in.)
duct clamp is aligned with the groove in the air in-
K = 54 N/mm* 126.5 a 138.5 mm (4.78 a 5.45 take duct.
(K = 5.7 kgf/mm) in.)
NOTICE
K = 56 N/mm 126.5 a 138.5 mm (4.78 a 5.45
(K = 5.9 kgf/mm) in.) Be sure not to damage the rear shock ab-
sorber spring by the air cleaner duct clamp
* : Standard when bringing down the rear frame.
A. Adjusting Nut Position

B. Locknut A. Tab
C. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut B. Groove
C. Air Cleaner Duct (View from Rear Side)
• Tighten the locknut securely. D. Frame
• After making the adjustment, move the spring up
and down to make sure that it is properly seated.
E. Air Cleaner Case
• Check the air cleaner duct is installed securely.

• Tighten the
Tighten the clamp screws securely. Wheels
• to the specified
rear frame bolt (upper and lower sides)
torque.
j
Tire Air Pressure
Rear Frame Bolts Tightening Torque Tire air pressure affects traction, handling, and tire
34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb) life. Adjust the tire air pressure to suit track condi-
tions and rider preference, but keep it close within
• Install the parts removed. the recommended range.
Optional Rear Shock Absorber Springs • To check the tire air pressure, remove the air valve
cap, and make sure to tighten the cap securely
Various rear shock absorber springs are available after checking the tire pressure.
to achieve suitable rear shock absorber action in ac-
cordance with the rider’s weight and track condition. • Reduce the tire air pressure to increase the tire
tread surface on the ground when riding on a wet,
A harder spring stiffens the shock absorber action muddy, sandy or slippery track.
and accelerates the rebound damping.
A softer spring softens the shock absorber action • Increase the tire air pressure to prevent damage
or punctures (though the tires will skid more easily)
and slows down the rebound damping. when riding on a pebbly or hard track.
WARNING Tire Air Pressure Adjustable Range
Improper removal or installation of the rear 80 kPa (0.8 kgf/cm², 11 psi) a
shock absorber spring may cause the spring 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm², 14 psi)
and/or related parts to be ejected at high ve-
locity. Always wear eye and face protection NOTE
when working on the rear shock absorber.
Removal and installation of the rear shock
żTire air pressure should be checked when the tires
are cold, before you ride the motorcycle.
absorber spring should be performed by an
authorized Kawasaki dealer.
Spokes and Rims Bead Protector
The spokes on both wheels must all be securely There is a bead protector on the both wheels. The
and evenly tightened and not be allowed to loosen. bead protector prevents the tire and tube from slip-
j Unevenly tightened or loose spokes will cause the ping on the rim and damaging the valve stem. Valve
rim to warp, the nipples and spokes to fatigue more stem damage may cause the tube to leak, necessi-
quickly, and the spokes to break. tating tube replacement. In order to keep the tire and
tube in position on the rim, inspect the bead protec-
tor before riding and tighten it if necessary. Tighten
the valve stem nut finger tight only.
A. Spoke and Spark Plug Wrench
A. Bead Protector
Rim Runout
Set up a dial gauge on the side of the rim and
rotate the wheel to measure its axial runout. The
difference between the highest and lowest readings
is the amount of runout.
• Set up the dial gauge on the inner circumference

of the rim and rotate the wheel to measure its ra-
Rim Runout Maximum Limit
Axial
dial runout. The difference between the highest 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
and lowest readings is the amount of runout. Radial j
• A certain amount of rim warpage (runout) can be
corrected by recentering the rim, that is, by loos-
ening some spokes and tightening other to change
the position of certain portions of the rim. If the rim
is badly bent, however, it should be replaced.
NOTE
żThe welding spot of the rim may show exces-
sive runout. Disregard this when measuring rim
runout.
Rim Runout
A. Axial Rim Runout Measurement
A. Rim
B. Radial Runout
C. Axial Runout
Hoses Inspection
j Check the brake and fuel hoses for cracks or de-
terioration, and the connections for looseness in ac-
cordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
• Inspect the brake hose and fittings for deteriora-
tion, cracks and signs of leakage by bending or
twisting the hoses.
• If damaged, replace the hoses.
A. Radial Rim Runout Measurement
A. Leakage
B. Cracks
C. Bulges
• Check the hose are securely

clamps are tightened correctly.
connected and
Tightening Torques of Nuts and Bolts

j
Location of nuts and bolts
Before the first ride of each day of operation, check the tightness of the nuts and bolts shown below. Check
also that all cotter pins are in place and in good condition.
1. Front Fork Clamp Bolts 8. Rear Frame Bolts 15. Camshaft Chain Tensioner
2. Handlebar Clamp Bolts 9. Spokes Bolts
3. Clutch Lever Holder Bolt 10. Brake Disc Mounting Bolts 16. Shift Pedal Bolts
4. Spark Plug 11. Front Axle Nut 17. Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
5. Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 12. Front Axle Clamp Bolts 18. Rear Sprocket Nut
6. Cylinder Head Bolts 13. Brake Caliper Bolts
7. Cylinder Bolts 14. Rotor Nut
19. Silencer Pipe Mounting 23. Steering Head Nut 29. Kick Pedal Pivot Bolt
Bolts 24. Front Master Cylinder 30. Engine Oil Drain Plugs
20. Silencer Cover Mounting Mounting Bolts 31. Clutch Cover Bolts
Bolts 25. Rear Axle Nut 32. Water Pump Cover Bolts
21. Rear Master Cylinder 26. UNI-TRAK® Rod Nuts
Mounting Bolts 27. Rear Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt
22. Rear Shock Absorber Bolt 28. UNI-TRAK Arm Nut
Torque table
Tighten all nuts and bolts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. An insufficiently tightened
nut or bolt may become damaged or fall out, possibly resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the
rider. An overtightened nut or bolt may become damaged, broken, or fall out.
j
Part Name N·m kgf·m ft·lb
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Cylinder Head Bolts (M10) 59 6.0 44
(M6) 12 1.2 (106 in·lb)
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Cylinder Bolts (M6) 12 1.2 (106 in·lb)
Camshaft Cap Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Engine Oil Drain Plug (M6) 7.0 0.7 (62 in·lb)
Engine Oil Drain Plug (M10) 20 2.0 15
Oil Filter Cover Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Kick Pedal Pivot Bolt 25 2.5 18
Shift Pedal Bolt 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Spark Plug 13 1.3 (115 in·lb)
Coolant Drain Plug 7.0 0.7 (62 in·lb)
Clutch Cover Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Clutch Spring Bolts 8.8 0.9 (78 in·lb)
Generator Cover Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)

Brake Caliper Bolts (Front) 25 2.5 18
j Brake Disc Mounting Bolts (Front) 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
(Rear) 23 2.3 17
Engine Bracket Nut/Bolt M8 29 3.0 21
M10 49 5.0 36
Engine Mounting Bolts 49 5.0 36
Front Axle Nut 79 8.1 58
Front Axle Clamp Bolts 20 2.0 15
Front Fork Clamp Bolts 20 2.0 15
Silencer Bolts 20 2.0 15
Silencer Cover Bolts 12 1.2 (106 in·lb)
Front Fork Top Plug 30 3.1 22
Handlebar Clamp Bolts 25 2.5 18
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut 98 10.0 72
Rear Axle Nut 108 11.0 80
Rear Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt 25 2.5 18
Rear Frame Bolts 34 3.5 25
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut 39 4.0 29

Rear Shock Absorber Lower Nut 34 3.5 25
Spokes 2.2 0.22 (19 in·lb) j
Steering Stem Head Nut 98 10.0 72
Steering Stem Locknut 4.9 0.5 (43 in·lb)
UNI-TRAK® Arm Nut* 59 6.0 44
UNI-TRAK® Rod Nuts* 59 6.0 44
Rear Sprocket Nuts 34 3.5 25
Front Brake Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts 8.8 0.9 (78 in·lb)
Rear Brake Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts 9.8 1.0 (87 in·lb)
Air Cleaner Duct Clamp Screw 2.0 0.2 (18 in·lb)
Cylinder Intake Duct Clamp Screw 2.0 0.2 (18 in·lb)
*: Apply the oil to blot threads or nut seat side.

electrical components, muffler outlets, and fuel tank
Cleaning Your Motorcycle openings.
j Washing Your Motorcycle
General Precautions
Frequent and proper care of your Kawasaki mo-
• Rinse your bike with cold water from a garden
hose to remove any loose dirt.
torcycle will enhance its appearance, optimize over-
all performance, and extend its useful life. Covering
• Mix a mild neutral detergent (designed for motor-
cycles or automobiles) and water in bucket. Use
your motorcycle with a high quality, breathable mo- a soft cloth or sponge to wash your motorcycle. If
torcycle cover will help protect its finish from harmful needed, use a mild degreaser to remove any oil or
UV rays, pollutants, and reduce the amount of dust grease build up.
reaching its surfaces. • After washing, rinse your motorcycle thoroughly
• Be sure the engine and exhaust are cool before
washing.
with clean water to remove any residue (residue
from the detergent can damage parts of your mo-
• Avoid applying degreaser to seals, brake pads, torcycle).
and tires. • Use a soft cloth to dry your motorcycle. As you dry,
• Always use non-abrasive wax and cleaner/pol-
isher.
inspect your motorcycle for chips and scratches.
Do not let the water air dry as this can damage
• Avoid all harsh chemicals, solvents, detergents, the painted surfaces.
and household cleaning products such as ammo-
nia-based window cleaners.
• Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes.
The heat from the engine will help dry moist areas.
• Gasoline, brake fluid, and coolant will damage the
finish of painted and plastic surfaces: wash them
• Carefully ride your motorcycle at a slow speed and
apply the brakes several times. This helps dry
off immediately. the brakes and restores them to normal operating
• Avoid wire brushes, steel wool, and all other abra- performance.
sive pads or brushes. • Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
• Use care when washing the plastic parts as they
can easily be scratched.
NOTE
• Avoid using pressure washers; water can pene- żThe front fork may have a scrach by the spattered
trate seals and electrical components and damage stones, etc. but it is no effect for the performance
your motorcycle. of the front fork. After riding in an area where the
• Avoid spraying water in delicate areas such as in
air intakes, throttle body, brake components,
roads are salted or near the ocean, immediately
wash your motorcycle with cold water. Do not use
warm water as it accelerates the chemical reaction Chrome and Aluminum

of the salt. After drying, apply a corrosion protec- Chrome and uncoated aluminum parts can be
tion spray on all metal and chrome surfaces to pre- treated with a chrome/aluminum polish. Coated
vent corrosion. aluminum should be washed with a mild neutral de-
j
tergent and finished with a spray polish. Aluminum
Painted Surfaces wheels, both painted and unpainted can be cleaned
After washing your motorcycle, coat painted sur- with special non-acid based wheel spray cleaners.
faces, both metal and plastic, with a commercially
Leather, Vinyl, and Rubber
available motorcycle/automotive wax. Wax should
If your motorcycle has leather accessories, special
be applied once every three months or as conditions
care must be taken. Use a leather cleaner/treatment
require. Avoid surfaces with “satin” or “flat” finishes.
to clean and care for leather accessories. Washing
Always use nonabrasive products and apply them
leather parts with detergent and water will damage
according to the instructions on the container.
them, shortening their life.
Plastic Parts
After washing use a soft cloth to gently dry plastic Vinyl parts should be washed with the rest of the
parts. When dry, treat the non-painted plastic parts motorcycle, then treated with a vinyl treatment.
with an approved plastic cleaner/polisher product.
The sidewalls of tires and other rubber compo-
NOTICE nents should be treated with a rubber protectant to
Plastic parts may deteriorate and break if help prolong their useful life.
they come in contact with chemical sub-
stances or household cleaning products WARNING
such as gasoline, brake fluid, window clean- Rubber protectants can be slippery and, if
ers, thread-locking agents, or other harsh used on the tread area, cause loss of traction
chemicals. If a plastic part comes in contact resulting in accident causing injury or death.
with any harsh chemical substance, wash it Do not apply rubber protectant to any tread
off immediately with water and a mild neutral area.
detergent, and then inspect for damage.
• Rear brake pedal

Lubrication • Kick pedal rod joints
Rear brake
j • Foot peg
Lubricate the areas shown in the illustrations of
this section with either motor oil or regular grease,
•
after each race and whenever the vehicle has been
operated under wet or rainy conditions, especially
after using a high-pressure spray washer. Before
lubricating a part, clean off any rust with rust remover
and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.
General Lubrication
Apply motor oil to the following pivots:
• Clutch lever
• Front brake lever
• Shift pedal Apply an aerosol cable lubricant with a pressure

lubricator on all cables:
• Clutch cable
j
• Throttle cable
Cable Lubrication
Apply grease to the following points: Drive Chain Lubrication
• Upper end of clutch cable Lubricate the drive chain after riding through rain
j • Upper end of throttle cable or on wet track, or any time that the chain appears
• Upper end of hot starter cable dry. A heavy oil such as SAE90 is preferred to a
lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and
provide better lubrication.
• Apply oil to the sides of the rollers so that it will
penetrate to the rollers and bushings.
• Wipe off any excess oil.
A. Grease.
Self-diagnosis Procedures
DFI Self-Diagnosis •Remove the number plate.
•Disconnect the connector.
j
This motorcycle equips the DFI trouble self
-diagnosis system. Trouble diagnosis can be con-
•Connect the FI indicator light assy (Optional part:
23016-0049).
ducted with the optional parts sold separately as the
following procedures.
Self-diagnosis Outline
The self-diagnosis has two modes and can
be switched to another mode by grounding the
self-diagnosis terminal.
User Mode -
The ECU connected FI indicator light goes on
when DFI system and ignition system and ignition
system parts are faulty. In case of serious troubles,
the ECU stops the injection/ignition operation.
Dealer Mode -
The FI indicator light emits service code(s) to show
the problem(s) which the DFI system, and ignition A. FI Indicator Light Assy Cap
system has at the moment of diagnosis.
• Remove the bolts and then, remove the left radia-

tor shroud.
• Disconnect the capacitor lead connector.
j
A. Capacitor Lead Connector

A. Bolts
B. Left Radiator Shroud
• Connect the power supply harness (Optional part:

26011-0246) to the capacitor lead connector of the
• Keep the FI indicator light assy (Optional part:
23016-0049) Y lead ground.
main harness. • Count the blinks of the light to read the service
j
• Connect the power supply harness (Optional part:
26011-0246) to the 12V battery as shown.
code. Keep the lead ground until you finish read-
ing the service code.
• To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode, ground
the self-diagnosis indicator terminal for more than
2 seconds, and them keep it grounded continu-
ously.
A. Power Supply Harness (P.N. 26011-0246)

B. Capacitor Lead Connector
C. 12 V Battery
NOTE A. Y Lead
żUse a fully charged battery when conduct- B. 2 seconds
C. Keep it grounded continuously
ing self-diagnosis terminal grounded during
self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light blinks very
slowly or doesn’t blink.
żKeep the self-diagnosis terminal grounded during
self-diagnosis.
How to Read Service Codes
j • Service codes are shown by a series of long and short blinks of the FI indicator light as shown below.
• Read 10th digit and unit digit as the FI indicator light blinks.
• starting
When there are a number of problems, all the service codes can be stored and the display will begin
from the lowest number service codes in the numerical order. Then after completing all codes, the
display is repeated until the self-diagnosis indicator terminal is open.
• IfForthere is no problem, no code and unlighted.
• lowest numberif intwotheproblems
example, occurred in the order of 21, 12, the service codes are displayed from the
order listed. (12 ĺ 21) ĺ (12 ĺ 21) ĺ (repeated)
• doesn’t
If the problem is with the following parts, the ECU cannot memorize these problems, the FI indicator light
go on, and no service codes can be displayed.
NOTE
żECU power source wiring and ground wiring (see Service Manual)
żEven if the battery of the ECU is disconnected, or the problem is solved, all service codes remain in the ECU.
Service Code Table

Service
FI Indicator Light (LED) Problems
Code j
11 Throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
12 Inlet air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Inlet air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or

13
short
Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or
14
short
21 Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
25 Gear position switch malfunction, wiring open or short
31 Vehicle-down sensor, malfunction, wiring open or short
41 Injector malfunction, wiring open or short

Service
FI Indicator Light (LED) Problems
Code
j
46 Fuel pump malfunction, wiring open or short
51 Ignition coil malfunction, wiring open or short
NOTE
żThe ECU may be involved in these problems. If all the parts and circuits checked out good, be sure to check
the ECU for ground and power supply. If the ground and power supply are checked good, replace the ECU
(see Service Manual).
żWhen no service code is displayed, the electrical parts of the DFI system has no fault, and the mechanical
parts of the DFI system and the engine are suspect.
A bracket to fix the FI indicator light on the handlebar is sold separately as an optional part.
Bracket (optional part):

P.N. 11055-1673
While the vehicle equipped with the FI indicator light is moving, if there is any problem in the DFI system, the
FI indicator light blinks.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 143
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
NOTE Spark missing or weak
żThis troubleshooting guide is not exhaustive and •Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad-
justed
does not give every possible cause for each prob- j
lem listed. It is meant simply as a quick guide to •Spark plug cap or high-tension wiring defective
assist you in troubleshooting for some of the more •Spark plug cap not contacting properly
common difficulties. •Spark plug type incorrect
•Crankshaft sensor defective
Starting failure or difficulties – •Ignition coil defective
•Engine stop switch wiring defective
Engine does not turn over
• Valve •Ignition coil resistor defective/disconnected
seized
• Cylinder or seized •Flywheel magneto damaged
Valve lifter
• Crankshaft seized
piston seized
•Wiring shorted or interrupted
Fuel-air mixture incorrect
• Connecting rod small end seized • Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not
• Connecting rod big end seized installed
• Camshaft seized • Water temperature sensor defective
• Transmission gear or bearing seized • Intake air temperature sensor
• Kick shaft return spring broken
• Kick ratchet gear not engaging Compression low
• Improper installation of vehicle down sensor • Spark plug loose
• • Cylinder head insufficiently tightened
Fuel does not flow • Cylinder head bolt
• No fuel in tank • No valve clearance
Cylinder or piston worn
• Tank cap air vent obstructed • Crankshaft oil seal leak
• Fuel line clogged • Valve spring broken or weak
• Break down of a fuel pump • Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
• Break down of a fuel injector • carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
• Piston ring worn, weak, broken, or sticking
• Piston ring side clearance excessive
144 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
• Cylinder head gasket damaged Compression low

• Cylinder gasket
Cylinder head warped •Spark plug loose
• Gear position sensor
damaged •Cylinder head insufficiently tightened
• Water temperature sensor
defective •Cylinder head bolt loose
• Intake air temperature sensor
defective •Cylinder or piston worn
j • defective •Piston ring worn, weak, broken, or sticking
Poor low-speed performance – •Piston ring side clearance excessive
•Cylinder head gasket damaged
Spark weak •Cylinder head warped
•Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad- •Cylinder gasket damaged
justed •No valve clearance
•Spark plug cap or high-tension wiring defective •Valve spring broken or weak
•Spark plug cap shorted or not contacting properly •Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
•Spark plug type incorrect carbon accumulation on the seating surface).
•ECU defective •Decompression trouble
•Ignition coil defective
Other
•Crankshaft sensor defective
• Enginedragging
oil viscosity too high
•Flywheel magneto defective
• Brake
•Wiring connector not in good contact
• Ignition timing incorrect
Fuel-air mixture incorrect • ECU defective
Engine oil level too high
• Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not • Drive chain trouble
installed • Engine over heating
• Fuel tank air vent obstructed • Clutch slipping
• Fuel pumpduct
Air intake loose •
• Gear position switch defective
defective
Poor or no high-speed performance –
• Water temperature sensor defective
• Inlet air temperature sensor defective Firing incorrect
• • Spark plug dirty, damaged, or gap improperly ad-
justed
• Spark plug cap or high-tension wiring defective
• Spark plug cap shorted or not contacting properly
• Spark plug type incorrect
• ECU defective • Decompression trouble

• Crankshaft
Ignition coil defective
Improper acceleration
• Flywheel magneto
sensor defective
• Throttle valve does not fully open
• Wiring connector notdefective • Muffler clogged
Air cleaner element clogged
• in good contact
• Fuel contaminated with water or foreign matter
Fuel-air mixture incorrect • Brake dragging j
• Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed or not • Clutch slipping
installed • Engine overheating
• Fuel contaminated with water or foreign matter • Engine oil level too high
• Fuel tank air vent obstructed • Engine oil viscosity too high
• Air intakebody
Throttle holder loose • Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged
• Fuel pump defective
duct loose • Ignition timing incorrect
• Gear position sensor defective • Crankshaft sensor defective
• Water temperature sensor defective • Gear position switch defective
• Intake air temperature sensor defective • Water temperature sensor defective
• • Inlet air temperature sensor defective
Compression low •
• Spark plug loose Knocking
• Cylinder head insufficiently tightened • Carbon built up in combustion chamber
• Cylinder nut loose • Fuel quality poor or type incorrect
• Piston ring worn,
Cylinder or piston worn • Spark plug type incorrect
• Piston ring side clearance
weak, broken, or sticking • ECU defective
• Cylinder head gasket damaged excessive
Engine overheating –
• Cylinder head warped
• No valve clearance Firing incorrect
• Valve spring broken or weak • Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad-
• Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or justed
• carbon accumulation on seating surface). • Spark plug type incorrect
• ECU defective
• Cylinder gasket damaged
Fuel-air mixture incorrect • Clutch cable improperly adjusted
• Throttle body holder loose • Clutch plate
Clutch cable defective
• Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not • Clutch springworn or warped
installed • Clutch releasebroken or weak
• Air intake duct poorly sealed • Clutch hub or housing
mechanism defective
j • Gear position switch defective • unevenly worn
• Water temperature sensor defective
Clutch not disengaging properly
• Inlet air temperature sensor defective
• Clutch lever play excessive
Compression high • Clutch springwarped
Clutch plate or too rough
• Carbon built up in combustion chamber • Engine oil deteriorated
tension uneven
Engine overloaded • Engine oil viscosity too high
• Brake dragging • Engine oil level too high
• Engineslipping
Clutch • Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
• Engine oil
oil level too high • Clutch release mechanism defective
• Drive chainviscosity too high • Clutch hub nut loose
• trouble • Clutch plate warped or rough
• Clutch hub spline damaged
Lubrication inadequate •
• Engine oil level too low
Gear shifting faulty –
• Engine oil quality poor or type incorrect
Transmission does not go into gear; shift pedal
Coolant inadequate
does not return
• Coolant level too low
• Clutch not disengaging
• Coolant deteriorated
• Shift fork bent or seized
Cooling system component defective • Gear stuck on the shaft
• Radiator clogged • Shift lever broken
• Radiator cap defective • Pawl guide plate broken
• Water pump not rotating • Shift return spring weak or broken
Clutch operation faulty – • Shift return spring pin loose
• Shift pawl broken
Clutch slipping • Shift pawl spring tension lose
• No clutch lever play • Shift drum broken
Transmission jumps out of gear Other noise

• Shift fork worn •Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
• Gear groove worn •Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
• Gear dogs and/or dog grooves worn •Piston ring worn, broken or stuck
• Shift drum groove worn •Piston seized or damaged
• Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken •Cylinder head gasket leaking
j
• Shift fork pin worn •Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head
• Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn •Crankshaft runout excessive
Transmission skips gears •Engine mounts loose
• Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken •Crankshaft bearing worn
• Pawl guide plate worn •Primary gear worn or chipped

•Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Engine noise abnormal – •Camshaft chain, sprocket, chain guide worn
Knocking •Decompression spring broken
• ECU defective •Flywheel magneto loose
• Fuel quality
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
• Spark plug type
poor or type incorrect Abnormal drive train noise –
• Engine overheating incorrect
Clutch noise
• • Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Piston slap • Clutch housing gear excessive
• Piston clearance excessive • Metal chip jammed in clutch housing gear teeth
• Connecting
Cylinder or piston worn
Transmission noise
• Piston pin orrodpiston
bent
• Crankcase bearing worn or damaged
• pin bores worn
• Metal chip jammed
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Valve noise • Engine oil level or viscosity
in gear teeth
• Valve clearance incorrect • Kick ratchet gear not properlytoo low
• Camshaft
Valve spring broken or weak • kick gear disengaging from
• Valve lifterbearing or camface worn
• worn • Output shaft idle gear worn or chipped
Drive chain noise Black smoke
• Drive chain slack improperly adjusted • Air cleaner element clogged
• Drive chain worn • Water temperature sensor defective
• Rear and/or engine sprocket(s) worn
Brownish
• Drive chain inefficiently lubrified
• Air cleaner
cleaner duct loose
j • Rear wheel misaligned
• Air poorly sealed or missing.
Frame noise abnormal – • Water temperature sensor defective
Front fork noise Poor handling and/or stability –
• Oil level or viscosity too low
Handlebar hard to turn
• Spring weak or broken
• Control cable incorrectly routed
• Front fork air pressure high
• Steering stem locknut
Wiring incorrect routed
Rear shock absorber noise • Roller bearing damagedtoo tight
• Shock absorber damaged • Steering stem inadequately lubricated
Disc brake noise • Steering stem bent
• Pad installed incorrectly • Tire air pressure too low
• Brakesurface
Pad glazed •
• Brake caliper defective
disc warped Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively
• Brake cylinder damaged • Tire worn sleeve or needle bearing damaged
• • Swingarm
Other noise • Rim warped or out of balance
• Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. improperly mounted or • Wheeland/or

Front rear axle runout excessive
tightened • Handlebar clampworn
bearing
• Steering stem headloose
Exhaust smoke – • nut loose
Excessively white Handlebar pulls to one side
•Piston oil ring worn • Frame bent
•Cylinder worn • Swingarm bent or twisted
Wheel misaligned
•Valve oil seal damaged • Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
•Valve guide worn • Steering maladjusted
•Engine oil level too high •
• Steering stem bent Poor braking performance –

• Right/left front
Front fork leg bent •Air in the brake line
• fork oil level uneven •Brake pad or disc worn
Shock absorption unsatisfactory (suspension •Brake fluid leaking
too hard) •Brake disc warped
• Front fork oil excessive •Brake pads contaminated

j
• Front fork oil viscosity too high •Brake fluid deteriorated
• Front fork leg bent •Primary and/or secondary master cylinder cup(s)
damaged
• Front fork air pressure high
•Master cylinder scratched
• Tire air pressure too high
•Brake maladjusted (lever or pedal play excessive)
• Rear shock absorber improperly adjusted
Shock absorption unsatisfactory (suspension
too soft)
• Front fork oil level insufficient and/or front fork
leaking oil
• Front fork oil viscosity too low
• Front fork and/or rear shock absorber spring weak
• Rear shock absorber leaking gas
• Rear shock absorber improperly adjusted
150 TUNING
TUNING
Suspension
• The front and rear suspension should always be
balanced; when the one is changed, the other one
might need to be changed similarly.
Introduction • When evaluating suspension performance, the
rider must make every effort to ride consistently
No area of machine adjustment is more critical
and to recognize the effects of his input. Such
than proper suspension tuning. An improperly tuned
j things as changes in rider position and increasing
suspension will keep even the best rider from attain-
fatigue may lead to incorrect judgments about
ing the full benefit of his machine’s ability. Match the
necessary adjustments.
suspension to the rider and the course conditions.
WHILE TUNING THE SUSPENSION, KEEP THE • When the proper settings have been determined
for a particular track, they should be written down
FOLLOWING IMPORTANT POINTS IN MIND:
for reference when returning to the same track.
• If the machine is new, “break in” the suspension
with at least one hour of riding before making any • Lubricate the bearings in the swingarm and UNI
-TRAK® linkage after break-in and after every 5
setting evaluations or changes.
races to prevent friction from affecting suspension
• The three major factors which must be considered
in suspension tuning are RIDER WEIGHT, RIDER
performance.
ABILITY, and TRACK CONDITIONS. Additional Front Fork
influences include the RIDER’S STYLE and PO-
Front Fork Oil Amount –
SITIONING on the machine.
The fork oil quantity in the fork tube is adjustable.
• Before changing the suspension settings, test
changing your riding posture or position to check
A change in the fork oil level will not affect the spring
force much at the top of fork travel, but it will have a
whether it is the cause of the problem or not.
great effect at the bottom of it.
• It is a wise practice to adjust the suspension to
suit the rider’s strong points. If you are fast in • When the oil amount is raised, the air spring be-
comes more progressive, and the front fork action
the corners, adjust the suspension to allow fast
feels “harder” in the later stage of fork travel, near
cornering.
the bottom.
• Make setting changes in small increments. A little
bit goes a long way, and a setting is easily over • When the oil amount is lowered, the air spring be-
comes less progressive, and the front fork action
adjusted.
TUNING 151
does not feel as “hard” in the later stage of fork Troubleshooting Improper Settings
travel. Listed below are some symptoms of improper sus-
Fork Oil Amount Effect on Fork Stroke pension settings and the most likely means of cor-
recting them. The proper settings can be achieved
by applying the information given in this chapter in a
scientific, methodical manner. This does not mean,
however, that you must be a scientist or trained tech-
nician to succeed. Simply take time to think about
the changes you believe are necessary, check them
against the symptoms and cures described here, j
make the changes in small increments, and take
note of the changes and their effects.
Front Fork Improper Adjustment Symptoms -
Too Hard
Spring too stiff
• Rebound or compression damping improperly ad-
justed.
A. Weight
• Spring too strong
B. Fork Stroke
C. Increase Amount • Oil amount too high
D. Standard Oil Amount Suspension stiffens at the end of the fork stroke
E. Decrease Amount • Fork oil amount too high
Changing the fork oil level works effectively at the • air pressure high
Fork
end of fork travel. If fork bottoming is experienced, Spring OK, but suspension too hard
raise the fork oil level amount. This will change the • Fork oil deteriorated
secondary spring rate. • Fork air pressure high
Front Fork Oil Level Adjustment -
Too Soft
• Adjust the front fork oil amount (see Front Fork Oil
Change under Front fork in the MAINTENANCE
The front fork dives excessively during braking
and deceleration
AND ADJUSTMENT chapter).
• Fork oil amount too low
• Springs too soft
152 TUNING
• Fork oil deteriorated Hence, if the actual rider weighs considerably more
• adjusted. and/or compression damping improperly
Rebound or less, or if his riding experience and ability are
much above or below the intermediate level, it is
likely that a few basic suspension adjustments will
Rear shock absorber improper adjustment
be necessary.
symptoms –
Too Hard Basic Readjustment of the Suspension
Suspension too stiff Suspension Tuning According to Ground
j
• High speed/low speed Compression damping too
high
Surface
Smooth terrain softer spring
• Spring too hard
Rough terrain harder spring
Spring OK but suspension too hard
• Unbalance between the spring and the rebound
damping (rebound damping too low) Suspension Tuning According to Riding
• Spring preload too high (hard) Experience
softer spring with greater
Too Soft Beginner
rebound damping
Bottoming occurs on landing after a high jump
Experienced rider harder spring
(otherwise OK)
• Spring preload too soft or high speed compression
damping too soft Suspension Tuning According to Rider Weight
• Spring too soft Heavy rider harder spring
• Shock absorber oil deteriorated
Light rider softer spring
Determining the Proper Settings
Standard Settings
From the factory, the machine is set up for a
medium-weight rider with intermediate riding ability.
TUNING 153
Suspension Tuning According the Type of Front and Rear Suspension Compatibility
Course Inspection
Lower the front end slightly. Use this procedure to determine if the suspension
[Increase the amount of fork is balanced reasonably well.
tube protrusion above the • Hold the motorcycle upright (remove the side
stand).
Many corners upper fork clamp by 5 mm
(0.2 in.)]. This accelerates • While standing next to the machine, lightly pull the
brake lever, place one foot on the footpeg closest
steering and enhances
turning ability. to you, and push down hard. If the motorcycle
stays level as the suspension is compressed, the j
Raise the front end slightly. spring rates are well balanced.
[Decrease the amount of
fork tube protrusion above • Sit astride the motorcycle, take a riding posture
and check that the machine is in a horizontal po-
Fast course the upper fork clamp by 5 sition. If one end drops noticeably more than the
mm (0.2 in.)]. This slows other, the front and rear are not compatible and
down steering and enhances must be readjusted to achieve a better balance.
stability at high speed.
Deep dips or sandy Raise the front end slightly to
ground gain stability.
Begin the actual on-track testing and evaluation

after making these preliminary adjustments.
Bear in mind the following points when readjusting
the suspension.
• Always make changes in small steps.
• The rider must be consistent in evaluating suspen-
sion performance.
• A change in the front suspension might require
one in the rear suspension, and vise versa.
154 TUNING
Although this is one of the most effective adjust-
ment procedures, suspension settings may vary de-
• Use a softer spring.
pending on the conditions at the track and the rider’s
NOTE
preferences. żLighter or less experienced riders may need a
softer spring.
Front and Rear Suspension Troubleshooting Front End Does Not Respond to Small Bumps in
Front End Surges Downhill or During Sweeping Turns –
Acceleration Out of Corner – The front suspension is too hard.
j The front suspension is too soft. • Decrease the compression damping or rebound
• Increase the compression damping.
•
damping.
• Increase the fork oil amount.
•
Decrease the fork oil amount.
• Use an optional harder spring, or increase the
spring preload.
Use a softer spring.
Rear End “Kicks” When Braking on Bumps –
Front End “Knifes” or Oversteers in Turns The rear shock absorber rebound damping may be
(Tends to Turn Inward) – too low.
The front suspension is too soft. • Increase the rebound damping.
• Increase the compression damping or rebound
damping.
Rear Tire Does Not “Hook Up” Out of Corners
(Lack of Traction Coming Out of Turns) –
• Increase the fork oil amount. The rear shock absorber may be too stiff.
NOTE • Decrease the rear shock absorber spring preload.
żHeavier or expert riders may need a harder spring. • Decrease the high speed/low speed compression
damping.
Front End Pushes or “Washes Out” in Turns • Use a softer spring (Lightweight Rider Only).
(Front Wheel Tends to Push Outward Rather Fork Bottoms Off After a High-speed Jump (may
than “Bite” in a Turn) – be due to improper riding posture) –
The front suspension is too stiff. The rebound damping is too soft or the spring is
• Decrease the compression damping or rebound too hard.
damping. • Increase the rebound damping.
• Release some air from the fork tubes. • Decrease the rear shock absorber spring preload
• Decrease the fork oil amount. • Decrease the compression damping.
TUNING 155
Front and Rear Ends Bottom Off After a NOTE

High-speed Jump (harsh bottoming occurs
once or twice per lap) –
żThe rear shock absorber behavior on this machine
may mislead some riders.
The front suspension is too soft. żThe rear shock absorber bottoms (due to full
• Increase the fork oil amount. stroke) when the spring and damping are over-
• Use a harder fork spring. come by the total weight of the machine and rider.
The rear suspension is too soft.
żA bottoming sensation (even though the machine
is actually not bottoming) may be caused by ma-
• Increase the rear shock absorber spring preload
or use a harder spring.
chine weight and the inability of the rider to over- j
come an overly stiff spring or excessive damping.
• Increase the rear shock absorber high speed com-
pression damping or use a harder spring.
żObserve the rear end jumps and try lowering the
spring preload and damping if it does not approach
NOTE bottoming.
żCheck the front and rear suspension compatibility
after making any adjustment.
Rear end feels soft at small jump –

•Increase the spring preload up to maximum.
•Increase the rear shock absorber low speed com-
pression damping.
Rear end feels soft at large jump –
• Increase the rear shock absorber high speed com-
pression damping.
• Increase the spring preload up to maximum.
Rear End Bottoms After 3 or 4 Successive
Jumps –
• Decrease the rebound damping.
156 TUNING
Gearing
• Since it is difficult to set the machine so it is best
suited for all portions of the circuit, determine
which circuit portions will have the greatest ef-
fect on lap time, and tune the machine to these
Selection of the Secondary Reduction Ratio portions. Confirm your settings by recording lap
(Rear Sprocket) times after each change. In this way the machine
Rear Sprocket Selection According to Course will deliver best performance for the entire circuit.
Conditions
Fast course small sprocket
j
Many curves or hills
large sprocket
Sandy or soft ground
• Ifondary
the course has long straight portions, the sec-
reduction ratio should be reduced so that
the machine speed can be increased.
• If then the course has many corners or uphills or
is wet, the secondary reduction ratio should be
increased so that gear shifting and acceleration
are smooth.
• Since the speed must be changed depending on
the ground condition on the day of the race, be
sure to run through the circuit prior to a race and
tune the machine accordingly.
• If there is a long straight portion of the course on
which the machine can be run at maximum speed,
the machine should be set so that the maximum
speed is developed toward the end of the straight
course, but care should be taken not to over-rev
the engine.
TUNING 157
Special Care According to Track

• The engine works hardest in muddy conditions
and the radiator can become clogged with mud.
Conditions Take care not to overheat the engine in these con-
ditions. The engine also works very hard when
• Infinedry,powdery
dusty conditions (such a volcanic ash or riding in deep sand.
dust), special care must be given to
keeping the air cleaner element clean.
• In muddy or sandy conditions, increase chain
slack as the chain and sprockets will be packed
• When riding on wet, heavy clay, mud adheres to with mud or sand, which reduces chain slack.
the tires and other parts of the vehicle. The mud
can add significantly to the weight of the vehicle
• Check chain and sprocket wear frequently when
riding in mud or sand, since wear is increased in j
and therefore reduce performance. Take care to these conditions.
remove built-up mud from the tires and chassis
after each ride, before drying occurs.
158 OPTIONAL PARTS
OPTIONAL PARTS
Rear Sprocket Suspension Spring (N/mm)
48T Front K = 4.6
49T K = 4.7 (Standard)
50T (Standard) K = 4.8
Aluminum 51T Rear K = 52
52T K = 54 (Standard)
48T K = 56
Steel 49T Disc Plate
50T Front no holes (for wet conditions)
51T Rear no holes (for wet conditions)
52T Aluminum Nipple Wheel (without tire)
Handlebar Holder Front 1.60 - 21
Holder (Upper) Handlebar size 28.6 Rear 2.15 - 19
28.6 Spoke Nipple
Holder (Lower) Handlebar size
22.2 Front and Rear Steel
KX FI Calibration Kit
The KX FI Calibration Kit can change the ECU data
setting, and save and analyze the engine operation
data in a personal computer (PC).
KX FI Calibration Kit:
P.N. 99999-0289
OPTIONAL PARTS 159
For details, refer to the KX FI calibration Kit man-

ual.
160 PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE MAINTENANCE
PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE MAINTENANCE

Pre-race Checks – Maintenance After the First Race –
• Front axle nut, or axle clamp nut tightness •Clean the air cleaner element.
• Front fork clamp bolt tightness •Adjust the drive chain slack.
• Handlebar clamp bolt tightness •Torque the rear sprocket nuts.
• Throttle grip operation •Tighten the spokes.
• Front and rear brake hose installation •Check the front and rear tire air pressure.
• Front and rear brake fluid level •Torque the front and rear axle nuts.
• Front and rear brake disc and caliper installation •Torque the pivot shaft nut.
• Front and rear brake function •Torque the muffler and silencer bolts or nuts.
• Fuel tank installation •Torque the front and rear fender bolts or nuts.
• All control cable routings •Torque the fuel tank and seat bolts or nuts.
• Engine mounting bolt torque •Check the front and rear brake function.
• Engine sprocket installation •Check the steering play.
• Shift pedal bolt torque •Fill the fuel tank with fuel.
• Engine oil level •Check the coolant level.
• Throttle body clamp screw tightness
Maintenance After Riding on a Dusty Course –
• UNI-TRAK® lever rod bolt tightness
If dirt or dust gets into the engine, cylinder, piston
• UNI-TRAK® lever bolt torque
and crankshaft bearings will be damaged. After rid-
• Rear shock absorber bolt torque
ing, inspect the crankshaft big end. If the crankshaft
• Swingarm pivot shaft nut torque
big end is worn past the service limit, replace the
• Rear axle nut torque
crankshaft with a new one.
• Rear sprocket bolt or nut torque
• Rear brake pedal operation Maintenance After Riding in the Rain or on a
• Seat installation Muddy Course –
• Front and rear wheel spoke tightness •Apply grease to swingarm and rear suspension
• Front and rear tire air pressure pivots.
• Front fork air pressure •Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket for wear.
• Drive chain slack •Clean the air cleaner element.
• Coolant level •Check the cylinder and crankshaft big end.
• Oil applied to air cleaner element •Grease the throttle grip and control cables.
PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE MAINTENANCE 161
Suggested Spare Parts – • Rear shock absorber spring (for suspension ad-
•Front and rear wheels justment)
•Shift pedal and brake pedal • Rear sprockets with bolts/nuts and circlips
•Brake lever, clutch lever, and holders • Electrical parts
•Throttle and clutch cables • Spark plugs
•Handlebar • Gasketsassembly and friction plates
Clutch
•Front and rear fenders, side covers, and number • Front and rear tires (various compounds and tread
plate • patterns for different conditions)
•Radiator, radiator cover, and cooling hoses
•Throttle grip assembly • Front fork assembly
•Air cleaner element • Tire wraps,
Piston and piston rings
•Muffler, silencer, and related parts • rings, wire, adhesive
bolts, nuts, O-rings, washers, snap
•Chain case tape, vinyl tap (or duct tape),
•Front springs (for suspension adjustment) and #400 to #600 emery cloth
162 STORAGE
STORAGE
WARNING
Before Storage Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be
explosive under certain conditions, creating
When the motorcycle is to be stored for any length the potential for serious burns. Always stop
of time, it should be prepared for storage as follows. the engine and never smoke while handling
• Clean the entire vehicle thoroughly. fuel. Make sure the area is well-ventilated
• Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the
oil, then stop it and drain the engine oil.
and free from any source of flame or sparks;
this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
Make sure the engine is cold before working.
j WARNING Wipe any fuel off the engine before starting
Motor oil is a toxic substance. Dispose of it. Gasoline is a toxic substance. Dispose of
used oil properly. Contact your local author- gasoline properly. Contact your local author-
ities for approved disposal methods or pos- ities for approved disposal methods.
sible recycling.
• Remove the spark plug and spray fogging oil,
• Install the oil drain plugs and fill in fresh engine oil. such as Kawasaki K-Kare Fogging oil (part num-
• a long the
Empty fuel tank. (Fuel will deteriorate if left for
time)
ber K61030-002), directly into the cylinder. Kick
the engine over slowly a few times to coat the
cylinder wall. Install the spark plug.
• Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables.
• Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to pre-
vent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts and
on the brakes.
• Lift the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both
wheels are raised off the ground. (If this cannot be
done, put boards under the front and rear wheels
to keep dampness away from the tire rubber.)
• Tie a plastic bag over the muffler to prevent mois-
ture from entering.
STORAGE 163
• Cover
from it.
the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt away
After Storage
• Remove the plastic bag from the muffler.

• Make sure the spark plug is tight.
NOTE
żFit the plug cap securely onto the spark plug, and
pull the cap lightly to make sure that it is properly
installed.
• Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

• Check all the points listed in the Daily pre-ride
checks section.
j
• Perform a General Lubrication Procedure.
164 ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
Kawasaki subscribes to the guidelines of Tread Lightly! a program dedicated to protecting the great outdoors
through education and fostering responsible enjoyment of public lands. When using your Kawasaki Motorcycle,
please follow these Tread Lightly! guidelines:
Tread Lightly!
Travel responsibly on designated roads and trails or in permitted areas.
Respect the rights of others including private property owners and all recreational trail users, campers and
others to allow them to enjoy their recreational activities undisturbed.
Educate yourself by obtaining travel maps and regulations from public agencies, planning for your trip, taking
recreation skills classes, and knowing how to use and operate your equipment safely.
A void sensitive areas such as meadows, lakeshores, wetlands and streams, unless on designated routes.
This protects wildlife habitat and sensitive soils from damage.
D o your part by leaving the area better than you found it, properly disposing of waste, minimizing the use of
fire, avoiding the spread of invasive species, restoring degraded areas, and joining a local enthusiast organi-
zation.
Properly discard used batteries, tires, engine oil, other vehicle components, or the entire vehicle that you
might dispose of in the future. Consult your authorized Kawasaki dealer or local environmental waste agency
for their proper disposal procedure.
166 WIRING DIAGRAM
WIRING DIAGRAM
WIRING DIAGRAM 167

2011 Kawasaki kx450f 68796

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GENERAL INFORMATION j

Quick Reference Guide

A Table of Contents is included after the

• This vehicle is designed for the operator only, no passengers.

DANGER indicates a hazardous situation

KAWASAKI HEAVY INDUSTRIES, LTD.

©2010 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. Apr 2010. (1).

Tire size, type:

Specifications are subject to change without notice.

1. Clutch Lever 3. Fuel Tank Cap 5. Front Brake Lever

7. Front Fork 12. Air Cleaner Element 17. Swingarm

20. Silencer 24. Kick Pedal

• Shift the transmission into neutral.

Break in the engine as follows.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

FREQUENCY After each Every 3 Every 6 Every 12

2. Periodic Inspection (Chassis Related Item)

FREQUENCY After each Every 3 Every 6 Every 12

*Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkage

Frame - clean and check • –

Rear shock absorber - inspect • 117

3. Periodic Replacement (Engine and Chassis Related Item)

†: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.

Oil and/or Oil Filter Change

A. Oil Level Inspection Window

A. Drain Plug (M6)

WARNING • Replace the oil filter element with a new one.

• When the oil filter is replaced, remove the oil filter

A. Oil Filter Element

• Apply the grease oil to the grommet.

• Install the oil filter cover with the grease applied to

• After the oil has completely drained out, install the

*Kawasaki Performance Oils and Lubricants have

WARNING Coolant Level Inspection

NOTE • Remove the radiator cap in two steps.

żThe coolant originally filled into the cooling sys-

• Check the coolant level in the radiator. The

• Install the radiator cap.

• Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to the

• Install the radiator cap.

• Check the coolant level after the engine has

To find out whether the plug’s heat range is correct,

• Clean the cylinder head cover around the spark

• Apply a suitable wrench to the spark plug. Fuel Tank Installation

• Install the spark plug cap so that align it to the line

A. Fuel Hose Joint

A. Spark Plug Cap

Element Removal and Inspection

A. Seat Mounting Bolt

• Open the both side covers slightly outward and

A. Side Cover A. Air Cleaner Element

• Check inside of the intake tract and throttle body

• Inspect the element. If it is dirty, clean it. Also

A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust

• After cleaning, let the filter dry completely. Satu-

• Before installation, check the element for damage

• Install the seat.

• With the engine idling, turn the handlebar both

the idling speed. If so, the throttle cable may be

A. Air Cleaner Duct Clamp Screw

A. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Connector

A. Throttle Sensor Connector

A. Rear Frame Bolts