Printing and Finishing

(TTPC 303)

Dyeing of polyester cotton blends

(Only for academic purpose during Covid time)

Dr. Lalit Jajpura,

Associate Professor, Department of Textiles
Technology,
 Polyester dyeing-Disperse dyes

 Insoluble but smaller molecular size thus able to

keep disperse by the help of dispersing agent.
 Dyeing take place by free volume model.
 Structure needs to be swelled

• Carrier Dyeing
• HTHP
• Thermosol dyeing
Cellulose Dyeing
Direct
Reactive
Vat
Sulphur
Azoic
Solubilized Vat
Dyeing of P/C blend
 Batch wise (Exhaust Dyeing)
 Continuous dyeing (padding mangle and other assisting machines)

Batch wise (Exhaust Dyeing)

 Two bath
 Single bath
 One step
 Two step
Disperse/reactive Disperse/Vat Disperse dyes/Direct
Machines:
 Beam dyeing
 Jet dyeing
 High temperature winch or jigger
 Two bath
 Polyester Dyeing  Reduction Clearing  Cellulosic dyeing  Soaping and washing

 In case of carrier dying two bath are preferred as stability of carries emulsion is limited in
presence of salt and auxiliaries used for cotton.
 Single Bath: Simultaneously

Disperse/Vat: Addition of Disperse and vat dye simultaneously

Recipe
 Disperse dye: X%
 Vat dye: Y%
 Dispersing Agent: 0.5-1%
 Wetting Agent: 0.5-1%
 pH: 4-5
Polyester dyeing at 120-135 degree C for 60-90 min
Cotton dyeing: Reduction of temp to 80 degree and addition of caustic soda and hydros
Addition of salt 10-15 gpl (IW class). Temp is reduced to 50-60 degree Centigrade; time 30-60
min.
Oxidation: Hydrogen peroxide (35%): 1-2 ml/litre at 50 degree centigrade for 15 min
Soaping: Anionic detergent: 0.5-1 gpl; pH: 9-10 at 90-95 degree centigrade for 15 min
 Single Bath: Two step by Disperse/Vat
 Disperse dying at HTHP-> cooling of bath to 80 deg C addition of Vat dye->
Addition of caustic soda and hydros -> oxidation -> Soaping
 Single Bath: Disperse/Reactive
 Alkali stable disperse dye
 High Temperature resistant reactive dyeing (Procion HE)
Dyeing
Polyester and cotton is dyeing at boil to 110 deg C
After Polyester dyeing - 70-80 deg C addition of alkalig
 Continuous dyeing of P/C fabric

Disperse/vat dyes (both should be very fine )

 Padding the fabric with disperse/vat
 Intermediate pre drying and drying (100-110 degree )
 Thermosol treatment
 Temp:200 to 220 degree centigrade
 Time: 90 to 60 second

 Migration inhibitor
 Sodium alginate
Chemical padding, steaming and fixing of vat dye
• Pad steam method
• Suitable for light and medium shade: Steamed at 100 deg C for 25-40 sec

• Pad jig development

• Suitable for dark shade: Jigger machine is used
• Caustic Soda (70 degree tw): 10-20 ml/lit
• Sodium Hydrosulphide: 10-20 gpl
• Salt: 20-40 gpl
Continuous dyeing by Disperse/reactive
One bath one step Pad bath Recipe:
 Disperse dye: X%
 Reactive Dye: Y%
 Sodium bicarbonate: 5-20 gpl
 Urea: 100-200 gpl Migration Inhibitor: 10-20 gpl
 Wetting agent: 1-2 gpl
Process
 Padding with disperse/ reactive dyes
 Drying (100-110 degree C)
 Thermo fixation (190-200 degree C fro 90-60 min)
 Soaping and washing
Disperse dyeing must be alkali stable whereas reactive dye must be stable at
thermosole temperature.
Urea: help in fixation of reactive and disperse dye; Reduce discolouration of
cellulosice; Help in dissolution of reactive dyes. Although it generate objectionable
odour.
 Two step: pad –dry- thermosol - alkali pad -steam
Padding with disperse (alkali sensitive)+ reactive dye
 Disperse dye:x%
 Reactive dye: y%
 Migration inhibitor:10gpl
 Wetting agent:1-2 gpl
Drying and Thermosol Process
Padding with Alkali
 Alkali (70 degree Tw): 30 ml/lit
 Glauber salt: 250 gpl
Steaming or pad batch
 Steamign: 102 degree C fro30-60 Sec
 Or
 Pad bathc for 2-8 hrs
Soaping and washing
Continuous dyeing with Solubilised Vat
Solubilised vat dye: X%
Sodium nitrite: 5gpl
Soda Ash: 1 gpl
Wetting agent: 1 gpl
For pale shade solubilised vat dyes also effective
for polyester component

Pad- treatment with sulphuric acid-- thermoset

at 180-190 degree C.
 Recommended books
 1. V A Shenai, Technology of Bleaching and Mercerising, Vol 2, Sevak Publication, Mumbai
(1991).
 2. Peters R. H, “Textile Chemistry”, Vol - II, Elsevier Publishing Company, London (1967).
 3. Shore J, “Cellulosics dyeing”, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, UK (1979).
 4. Karmakar S R, “Chemical Technology in the pretreatment processes of Textiles”, Textile
Science and Technology Series, Vol-12, 1st Edition, Elsevier (1999).
 5. Chemical Processing of Textiles: Preparatory Processing and dyeing by NCUTE
Publications
Thank you