Introduction

to
Cosmetic Formulating

Perry Romanowski
Element 44 Inc 2020
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• 100+ pages
• Formulation tips
• Product evaluation
• Unique advice
• Cost savings ideas
• Resources section
 My mission

Educate Inspire Entertain

 What you’ll learn
• Cosmetic industry
• Types of products & formulation forms
• Types of raw materials
• Testing requirements
• Setting up a cosmetic lab

Information to make you a

better cosmetic chemist
 What’s my story?
● Chemistry degree
DePaul University
● Alberto Culver
● 28 years Formulation
Chemist

http://chemistscorner.com
Almost everything I learned about
formulating, I learned on the job
and from other formulators…
not in college
You don’t need chemistry degree to
learn to formulate…

But if you want a job as a

formulator, then you’ll need one
 Being a Cosmetic Chemist is great!

• Low stress
• Inventing
• Creative
• Learning
• Fun!
• Actual Impact
The Cosmetics Industry
Knowing the industry will help you
start your career, get formulation
ideas, & help you innovate
Skin Products
Hair Products

Image of hair products

Color Cosmetics

Image of color cosmetics

Perfume &
Fragrances
 Oral / Personal Care Products
• Toothpaste
• Mouthwash
• Whitening strips
• Deodorant
• Depilatories
 Cosmetic-type
products with
FDA Monographs
(OTC)

• Restricted Active Ingredients

• Restricted Claims
 Cosmetic-type products with
FDA Monographs (OTC)

• Sunscreen
• Antiperspirant
• Skin lightening
• Psoriasis treatments
• Wart Removers
• Anti-acne products
• Toothpaste (with fluoride)
• Anti-microbial products
• Topical Analgesics
 Top
Cosmetic
1. L’Oréal $30.8 billion
Companies
2. Unilever $23.6 billion
3. Estée Lauder $14.9 billion 2019*
4. Procter & Gamble $12.4 billion
5. Shiseido $9.9 billion
6. Coty $9.3 billion
7. LVMH $6.9 billion
8. Beiersdorf $6.7 billion
9. J&J $6.3 billion
10. Kao $5.7 billion

* https://www.beautypackaging.com/heaps/
view/6459/1/
 Strongest Personal Care Brands
• 1) L’Oreal Paris • 9) Estee Lauder
• 2) Colgate • 10) Pantene Pro V
• 3) Gillette • 11) Olay
• 4) Lancome • 12) Crest
• 5) Nivea • 13) Shiseido
• 6) Garnier • 14) Oral-B
• 7) Clinique • 15) Head and Shoulders
• 8) Dove

* According to Women’s Wear Daily *based on 2013 sales figures

 Top Cosmetic Brands

Emulate Formulas
From these brands when you
Create Products
Cosmetic Raw Materials
 Knowing the raw materials is
essential information for you to
make cosmetic formulas
 Cosmetic Raw Materials
• Functional
• Aesthetic
• Claims / Marketing

• Found in the INCI Dictionary

Cosmetic Raw Material
Classifications
 Most important
Functional Cosmetic Raw Materials

● Cleansers
● Conditioning Agents
● Colorants
● Fragrances
● Active ingredients
● Film formers
 Aesthetic Raw Materials
• Solvents
• Adjusters
• Thickeners
• Fragrance
• Fillers
• Special Effects
• Delivery Systems
• Preservatives
 Claims Ingredients
• Added to support a marketing story

• Vitamins
• Botanical Extracts
• Proteins
• Anti-Aging
• Advanced technology
Types of Cosmetic Formulas
 Knowing the formula types will
allow you to create products that
consumers want to use
 8 Formulation Types

● Solutions
● Creams
● Lotions
● Ointments
● Powders
● Gels
● Sticks
● Aerosols
 6 Steps to
Creating a cosmetic formula / product

• Getting set up
• Picking a benchmark
• Starting formulas
• Raw materials
• Making prototypes
• Testing
To formulate you need to
Have the right equipment
 Essential Lab equipment

• Containers
• Weighing equipment
• Mixers
• Heating & Cooling
devices
• Lab supplies
• Testing equipment
Step 2 – Picking a Benchmark

Benchmark: A commercial product that

approximates your desired product
 Factors when choosing a benchmark

• Performance characteristics
• Aesthetics
• Market Popularity
• Matches your
consumer expectations
 Using a benchmark
● Quantify how it works
● Use the product
● Note performance
● Do lab tests
● Characteristics
● Foam
● Feel
● Odor
Step 3 – Finding a Starting Formula
 Where to get Starting Formulas

● Chemical suppliers
● Patents
● Books
● Trade journals
● Ingredient lists
LOIs

http://bit.ly/NluE3l
Step 4 - Cosmetic Raw Materials
 Learning about Raw Materials
• INCI Dictionary
• Buyer’s Guide
– Happi.com
– PCPC buyers guide
• Aggregators
– ulprospector.com
– knowde.com
– chemberry.com
• Trade shows
Get in-depth information about
How, when & why to use specific
cosmetic ingredients

https://bit.ly/PCF-raw-materials
 Getting Raw Materials

• Order from supplier

• Meet sales people at SCC meetings
• Trade shows
• Buying ingredients
– Amazon
– Direct from supplier
– eBay
Step 5 – Making Prototypes
 Basic procedure
• Largest volume first
• Add powders first.
• Heat formula
• Add liquid ingredients
• Mix at high temp 20 min
• Cool batch
• Below 40C add temp
sensitive ingredients
• Cool to RT
 Step 6 - Testing Prototypes

Knowing how to test cosmetics

ensures you make high quality, safe,
stable & legal products
 Types of testing

● QC / QA
● pH
● Viscosity test
● Odor check
● Appearance check
● Stability testing
● Microbial testing
● Performance testing
 6 Steps to Formulating

1. Getting Set Up
2. Picking a Benchmark
3. Starting formulas
4. Get raw materials
5. Make prototypes
6. Testing / refining

https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ResourcesForYou/Industry/ucm388736.htm
Introduction Cosmetic Formulating

• Cosmetic Industry
• Types of ingredients
• Types of formulas
• Developing formulas
• Testing formulas
http://chemistscorner.com/forum
 Contact

Vice President Element 44 Inc

Email: Perry@chemistscorner.com

LinkedIn: PerryRomanowski

Twitter: Chemistscorner

Phone: 708-207-7642