CE torso 1h" grade how the body grows from size to size 4. The side bust dart is graded "4" per size, even though that area of the body grows larger than that per size. This, in effect, foreshortens the dart, allowing it to cup more of a fuller bust. 2. When the torso pattern is used as the basis for over blouse or tuck-in blouse designs, a length grade is not necessary in the hip section. When the torso pattern is used as the basis for a one-piece dress, the length grade can be given in the side seam, as itis given in the straight skirt lesson on p. 47. 3. The width of the dart—known as the dart pick-up—remains the same from size to size, because the areas that shape the dart at its widest and narrowest ends grow in proportion to each other. Consequently, the dart pick-up remains the same. Cros shoulder Panay = wpND HHT IAND Sa Seam Gade» VE (andar. 1. For stops Q~Q. refer w the bodice increase equally between the waistline grading charts on pp. 20, 22, and 24 for darts and the side seam. ‘Measurements to use when grading for “These large erows area ky tthe cher than the 1's" grade shown are, __& THe smaller digram in she lower ieeeson in which hw patra wi be Step © rotos the amounts tbe sited Comer ofeach box dapcis the param moved, show bythe smal crows in order to distribute the weistine lak aemensamerpyci” inthe eccompanying ‘traced in thet step marked in derk lines. 0-0 upper torso grade Follow steps 1-6 of the front bodice lesson on pp. 29-30. In step 6, trace the side seam to just past the side-bust dart notches, and Cros Guiding mark the dart notches. = cross Control Line @ «ise seam grade Shift the pattern down 1" from its previous position, The control line of the pattern should now be a total of 4" below the cross guideline on the paper. Trace the side seam past the ‘waistline, to and around the side seam/hipline intersection. o-To distribute the waistline increase equally between the waistline arts and the side seam, shift the pattern in ‘4" from its previous Position. The pattern should now be a total of %" from the length guideline. Mark the hip level apex and waistline pick-up of the side waistline dart. Note: For a 1" grade, shift in For a 2" grade, shift in %e", 8 waistline darts—2 Shift the pattern up 1%" from its previous position. The control line of the pattern should now be a total of 14" below the cross guideline on the paper. Mark the apex of the side waistline dart and the apex of the side-bust dart, ‘Next, shift the pattern in until it is within 14" of the length guideline. Mark the apex of the bust waistline dart.® waistline darts—3 Shift the pattern down “from its previous position, The control line of the pattern should now be a total of %4" below the cross guideline on the paper. Mark the waistline pick-up of the bust waistline dart; also mark the hip level apexes and crossmarks of the bust waistline dart. Trace the hipline from the side seam intersection across to the length guideline, creating the new hipline/center front intersection. @ ser comptetion Lift the pattern off the paper and draw in all the dart lines. The front torso 14%" grade is now complete. For the back torso grade, follow the same procedures, using steps 1-6 of the back bodice lesson on pp. 33-34, then continue with steps 7-10 of the front torso lesson, reversing, the “in” and “out” directions of the arrows if the back pattern is a mirror image of the front. \