Collection Review: Key

Items – Men's Cut & Sew

S/S 22
Optimistic resort themes, functional utility details and
comfort-first fabrics refresh familiar items

Olivia Barnes
08.04.21 · 5 minutes

OAMC
Market analysis
The cut-and-sew category has fared well in comparison to other product areas
during challenging times, as consumers seek casual pieces that deliver comfort.
As lockdown restrictions ease, versatile items well-suited to everyday wear will
come out on top. A mark of this shi includes new-season hoodies increasing
across all segments globally, contributing to 18% of the knit and jersey mix in the
US, 17% UK and 10% Germany
This category's buoyancy is reflected at retail, as knitwear and jersey increase
their share of the topweights category at retail (+3ppts to 40% UK, +1ppts to 38%
US and Germany), while woven shirts are down (-3ppts to 17% UK, -4ppts to 19%
US, -1ppts to 22% Germany)
Tried and tested items remain the go-to. Provide seasonal newness via familiar
and commercial items that score highly on comfort and styling versatility

Undercover

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Test or invest 
Appeal to consumers still seeking familiarity and comfort with classic crew-neck sweatshirt and T-shirt designs in relaxed and generous proportions. Use interesting
pocket scales and placements as well as #modulardesign details to update the hoodie. Test tanks and sleeveless tees as a low price-point alternative to the
#knittedvest.

Test Invest

Uniforme Paris Facetasm Bluemarble Ermenegildo Zegna David Catalan

01 02 03 04 05
Tank Hoodie Polo shirt Oversized tee Crew-neck sweatshirt

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The hoodie
A core menswear staple, designers favour the hoodie for its diverse styling potential and transseasonal
versatility. In line with consumer desire for comfort, silhouettes are loose and relaxed but not too oversized,
perfect for layering under or over tops and jackets in cooler weather. #Cargopockets introduce a functional
utilitarian feel, while zip details at Facetasm make sleeves removable and size-adjustable in a
#modular approach to design.

Appliqué patch Utility pockets #Retroresort Relaxed t Adjustable zips

Undercover Lyph Prada 1017 ALYX 9SM Facetasm

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The polo shirt
A knitwear key item, the polo remains a popular shape, boosted by the importance of nostalgia and retro
themes alongside perennial preppy messages. Explore these directions with tonal stripe settings,
breathable mesh structure jerseys and #smarteneup geometric repeats.

Contrast trims Stripes Extended sleeves Textured ribs #Fantasyresort

Luca Larenza Andrea Pompilio per Harmont & Blaine Bluemarble Shanghai Casablanca

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The crew-neck sweatshirt
Design details refresh the crew-neck sweatshirt for summer. Familiar and understated, a loose but not
oversized t is favoured across the board, appealing to consumers looking for mid-weight items that can
double up as layering pieces in cooler weather. #Patchwork and #panelling techniques diversify from
traditional crafted designs to blocky constructed stripes at David Catalan and technical mixes at White
Mountaineering.

#Matchingset Technical #patchwork Summer stripes Panelled stripes #Statementpocket

David Catalan White Mountaineering Davi Paris Tokyo Undercover

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The oversized tee
Continuing from S/S 21, the oversized T-shirt is an important shape, boosting versatile styling options when
layered over and under looks. Boxy full-volume tees are updated with pieced and #panelled constructions
and patch pocket details. Keep upbeat mix-and-match designs for youth customers and investigate how
overlocked seam panels, topstitching and same-fabric #patchworks can translate the look for more
sophisticated markets.

Lightweight layers Overlocked seams Elevated patchwork  #Spliced Sheer panels

Dior Men Sunnei Ermenegildo Zegna Shanghai Basscoutur

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The tank
Prominent across S/S 21 collections, jersey tank tops feel more approachable this season, as the
#knittedvest is embedded as a knitwear key item. While ts vary from slim to boxy, blocky sleeveless tee
shapes with a generous t through the body have most commercial appeal. Keep things simple with
breathable piqué, mesh and waf e constructions or pared-back ribs, as seen at Y-Project and Uniforme
Paris.

#Softmasculinity Wide ribbed trims #Tiedye Pouch pocket Sleeveless T-shirt shape

Taakk Uniforme Paris Shanghai Serdar Dries Van Noten

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1 2 3
Action points
Be creative with panelling and patchwork
techniques
Breaking free of traditional cra references,
constructed # patchwork and # panelling techniques
are used create interesting texture and opacity.
Overlocked seam panels, topstitching and same-fabric
patchworks work well for understated designs.
Investigate how # upcycled deadstock and cutting
scraps can be incorporated into appliqués and
reconstructed designs
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Freshen up items with functional details
Driven by # elevatedutility and # desertrider outdoor
directions, # cargopockets are a key detail for mid to
heavyweight jersey items. Design flat patch pockets for
lighter weight tees and top layers. Speak to
# modulardesign by integrating removable panels and
size adjustability into items with open-ended zips
and fastenings
Source fabrics with comfort front of mind
Match utility designs with versatile fabric qualities in
robust cotton, linen and hemp blends. Translate
popular # openwork designs into breathable piqué,
waffle and mesh stitches. Upgrade core shapes with
refined basics that are smart but comfortable for varied
end-use
Methodology
WGSN e-commerce data:
Based on men's products across 151 retailers in the UK and US from January 4 to
March 29 2021 and 2020
Please note, some retailers are excluded to ensure like-for-like calculations and
to avoid inflated product counts due to the acquisition of new retailers on the e-
commerce platform
Numbers may fluctuate as we recategorise to help clarify ambiguous/new
products or if retailers refactor their website
Definitions :
New in: new products available online during the specified period by retailer,
category or sub-category
ppts: percentage point difference
YoY: year on year
Product, assortment or category mix: proportion of a set of products over a larger
set. An example is volume of dresses over the whole volume of apparel: %
dresses within apparel = (volume dresses / volume apparel) *100

Paul Smith