PMU Lip Pro Tips:

Lip Pmu- Make sure on live skin you stretch the skin really well.

Make sure to lock in your outline first as that will shape the lips.

Correct asymmetrical areas or lift dropping corners of the mouth before filling in all
over.
It's also important not to make the vermillion border go beyond the natural co tour line
more than 2 mm; otherwise the lips might look really artificial.

PMU Machine video

https://youtu.be/_zkQDd4gTkI

Pigment mixing video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s495CTlNBnE&feature=emb_title

Lip pigment retention:

https://pmuinternational.com//the-relationship-between-lip-tissue-types-and-pigment-
retention

Pigment Chart:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1376/3017/files/Scalpa-Brows-New-Color-
Guide_Print_File.pdf?v=1608593091

PMU PRO TIPS

 
In the permanent makeup industry there are so many variances that  can impact
results, as well as issues that professionals experience from time to time. That is why
Scalpa Aesthetic Academy decided to research these variances and issues to provide you
with this PMU PRO TIP Journal. A collection of helpful tips to address:
 
• Pigment Migration
• Needle Depth
• Hand Speed
• Machine Speed
• Pigment Retention
• Color Fading
 
So let’s get started…
 
 
PMU Tips on needle Depth & Speed
 
At what depth should the needle be implanted?
This question is understandable because many have heard about skin trauma, scars, etc.
The problem is that even knowing what depth of penetration should be used; it is
impossible to determine depth with the naked eye.
 
Average needle length is 2.0-2.5 mm; approximately 1/5 of a 2.0 mm needle penetrates
the skin (by eye), and part of the epidermis and dermis seem transparent. Moreover,
you should be aware that the thickness of the skin is different for every person and in
different areas of the face and body.
 
No high-tech equipment can determine the depth at which a permanent make-up artist
should work. We then have to use our tactile sensations, such as the degree of vibration
of the skin or objectively apparent manifestations, such as the discharge of blood.
 
In the initial stages of practice, it is essential to get used to performing a very superficial
job. In the end, it is better not do anything on the skin than leave a scar. We can give
beginners a good piece of advice: always start with the minimum!
 
Try to gradually increase the depth of penetration. If the pigment does not remain in the
skin it means that you must puncture a little deeper. Once the pigment remains in the
skin, do not go any deeper. Finish the procedure at this depth! If the needle is implanted
into the deeper layers of the dermis, the pigment might spread within the skin, change
color or remain there for a long time. If the skin is subject to strong trauma, there can
be a significant loss of pigment during the healing process.  A qualified specialist does
not think about the depth of needle penetration; he/she senses and knows what is right
as a reflex developed through repeated practice.
 
HAND SPEED
It is essential to understand the concept of hand speed along the surface of the skin. The
slower the hand moves, the more punctures remain in the area, and vice versa (at the
same speed of the device). So, the slower we move our hand, the denser the coverage.
In order to achieve color uniformity, speed must not be modified.
 
DEVICE SPEED
The speed of the device is very closely linked with the speed of hand movements along
the surface of the skin. Logically, the higher the speed, the more punctures can be
performed within a certain period of time. For this reason, we recommend that novice
artists work at a minimum speed and move their hands slowly. This will help them focus
on small details, draw lines in more precisely and prevent skin trauma. If the device
speed is low and hand movements are fast, coverage with color will not be dense
enough and will be very transparent. This combination is suitable for light and airy
feathering.
 
If the device speed is high and hand movements are slow, we get a very dense shade,
but skin trauma is more likely to occur.
It is believed that the speed of the device should be slightly increased if you want to
speed up the coloring process and use cluster needle cartridges instead of a single
needle (in consequence, skin resistance increases). 
 
SHADING TECHNIQUES 
While, as a rule, you perform straight, uninterrupted movements or forward (back and
forth) strokes to produce lines, there is no clear formula about how to improve shading.
The geometry of the drawing can be varied: strokes, circles, ovals, loops, figure eights,
etc. All kinds of shading can co-exist successfully even on one piece of work; it all
depends on the PMU artist’s preferences. 
 
 
How far does the needle poke out?
The tip of the needle should not be sticking out anymore than 2mm and no less than
1mm. Keep in mind that every person's skin type is different and there is no exact
measure. If during your tattoo there are excessive amounts of blood, it is obviously
going in too deep.
 
 
Link for needle lengths for PMU:
 
https://youtu.be/HAI2vJjeZDc
 
Needle information: https://scalpashop.com/pages/pmu-training-course-3
 
 
https://www.beautyslesh.com/machine-shading-choosing-the-right-speed-settings-and-
depth/
 
 
Needles & Blades
 
The main function of permanent make-up needles is to penetrate into the protective
layers of the epidermis and deliver pigment to the papillary layer of the dermis with
minimal damage to the skin. This function entails certain requirements to selecting and
using needles in permanent make- up procedures.
  
Needle/Blade Requirements:
 
First and foremost, they must be: 
• High-quality 
• Sharp 
• Sterile and disposable for each client. 
 
Needles for permanent make-up are produced from steel-alloy needle wire. They are
sharpened, polished, individually packaged, and pre-sterilized. The success of every
procedure depends on the sharpness and quality of a needle. Any contact with an
external object will dull the needle and change its geometric form, which, in turn, will
impede its penetration into the epidermal tissue and lead to trauma. For example, with
the PMU machine switched on, when we dip the tip with the needle into a disposable
container with pigments, the needle is dulled from the contact with the bottom of the
cap. 
 
There are many different needles on the market used for PMU procedures from needle
cartridges for power operated machines to blades for manual use like microblading.
Each needle has a different purpose for a different outcome. Understanding the
different needles out there will help you better understand how to choose the correct
needles for each procedure. While many of the needles on the market follow the same
guidelines, they will vary with each manufacturer. This is basic knowledge of needle
guidelines for your better understanding. 
  
Needle Size:
 
Each needle has a diameter, regardless of the device used. Diameter can be described as
the individual needle size.   
 
Needle Taper:
 
Each needle has a taper. A taper is the measurement of the needle point length and
may be short, medium, long, or extra long. Short taper produces a larger puncture size
with long/extra long creates a smaller puncture size. 
    
Needle Count:
 
Each needle grouping has a count. This is how many individual needles are within one
configuration. For example, single needle has one needle while triple shader has three.
    
Needle Configuration: 
 
Configurations can be round, flat, and magnum. There are also cartridge-type and
manual device configurations. 
 
Round liners is a grouping of needles that are soldered together so the points are close
together. The result is more concentrated. Round shaders is a grouping of needles that
are soldered together so that the points are further apart. The result is more spread
out. 
 
Flat configurations are needles in a flat, linear pattern that are soldered together so that
there is an exact space between needlepoints. 
 
Woven magnum is one row of needles that is woven in a way that gives the appearance
of two rows. It has a wider configuration and is available in straight or curved. 
 
Stacked magnum is two rows of side-by-side flat needles with the smaller grouping
placed on top of the larger. 
 
Cartridge-Type needle configurations are encased and inserted into the handpiece of a
machine pen. The needles normally retract back into the encasement when the machine
is in the off position. Cartridge needles come in all shapes and sizes such as liners,
shaders and magnum! 
 
Manual Device needles can be arranged in flat or round configurations. These are
configured specifically for eyebrow hair stroke patterns and may be smaller in diameter
than the typical needle.    
 
• Needle Cartridges
 
• Handheld Manual Blades
 
Scalpa Needles and Blades
 
PRECISION NEEDLE
 
Designed for fine lines for creating brow strokes and eyeliner 
• 1RL configuration
• Diamond cartridge 
• Precise impressions 
• Clear cartridge to monitor ink build up    
 
LINER NEEDLE
 
Designed for lining the lips 
• Aerodynamic cartridge 
• Diamond cartridge 
• Precise impressions 
• Clear cartridge to monitor ink build up    
 
SHADING NEEDLE
 
This needle is specifically used for creating density with ombré eyebrows, filling in
brows, and PMU lips. This will give you more coverage on the area and packing more
pigment, saving time and creating a different impression.  
• 3RS configuration
• Diamond cartridge 
• Covers more area
• Clear cartridge to monitor ink build up 
 
 
14C BLADE
 
This is a great microblade for beginners because of its design. The straight curve line
allows for fewer mistakes and fewer errors. Because it is bowed, you have more width
but also more options to move around. With this microblade, you can apply a clean-cut
straight light or be conservative with the curve if needed. 
 
 
18U BLADE
 
This blade offers great retention and depth while still allowing room for rotation as it is
designed to bow outward. This is a perfect match for the master that wants to have fun
with that extra level of freedom with their microblade.