straight grain and cross grain.

It is used
Button Diameter Size in Inches and Line Number (1 line = .025") as a substitute for the fabric that will be
Note: There are differences between button vendors in line sizes. used in the final garment (fashion fab-
ric), to drape or test fit. Several

7Q 0 0 0
weights of muslin are available, to rep-

1/2h 5/Qh 3Q
(10 line) (12/13 line) (14/15/16 line) (18 r ) 1/2 I~ch 9/16 Inch 5/8 Inch
resent various weights of woven fab-
rics, but it cannot substitute for very
soft fabrics, especially when used on
the bias grainline. If your fashion fab-
Ine (20 line) (22 line) (24/25 line)
ric is one that stretches, such as a knit,
muslin cannot be a substitute.

000
11/16 inch
(27/28 line)
3/4 inch
(30 line)
13/16 inch
(32/33 line)
7/8 inch
(35/36 line)
15/16 inch
(37/38 line)
Buttons and zippers are some of the
notions used on garments. Figure 1.35
illustrates different types and sizes of
buttons. Figure 1.36 shows several
types of zippers.

Summary

The information in this chapter will

help prepare you as you begin your
training as a patternmaker. As you
work through the chapters in this text,
1 inch 1 1/16 inch 11/8inch you will take what you've learned in
1 3/16 inch
(40 line) (42/43 line) (45 line) this chapter and apply it to the pattern
(47/48 line)
styles you create. Because each chapter

o
and each pattern style in this text
builds on previously learned material,

~
dome
~O
quarter ball half ball
you should not skip chapters.
An important aspect of pattern-
making involves "what" or "who"
serves as your fit model. A pattern-
maker must have a full-scale body
form or a live fit model readily avail-
M
O o V 000
able for fitting patterns. The pattern-
maker's choice of fit model is crucial in
determining the garment's end use. To
become a custom dressmaker, he or she
may use a potential customer (live
model) as a fit model and may wish to
work with a variety of body shapes. If the
patternmaker wishes to work for a fashion
Heavy Pattern Paper
manufacturer that produces standard-
This paper has several names, including sized clothing, a fit model should be cho-
manila paper, tag board, oak tag, and sen with measurements that match a
hard paper. It comes in various widths and standard sample size so the garments fit as
weights, similar to a manila folder. It is many people as possible.
durable, with stiff edges that are easy to The size charts included in Chapter 2,
trace around. I t is used for slopers and Table 2.1, can help guide you in picking a
production patterns, which are traced to body form or a live model that reflects
make markers. realistic proportions for to day's average
woman. People have continued to grow
Muslin larger over the centuries, particularly in
Muslin is a lOO-percent cotton fabric with the past few decades. Women also wear
a weave that is easily seen, on both the different undergarments than they did in