Chapter 10 (The 18th Century)

1. Anglomania- Emily Prueitt (my maiden name is Call)

Anglomania is an obsession to imitate English customs and dress. This was more
prevalent in England than in France but it did grip most of Europe for half the century.
France still remained the height of fashion at this time so I’m not sure how much they
had anglomania. Anglomania could also be an intense admiration for English customs
and dress. In terms of dress, upper class people of Europe adopted English dress.
Source 1. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/anglomania#:~:text=noun,%2C
%20manners%2C%20customs%2C%20 etc. 
Source 2. https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2006/anglomania-tradition-
and-transgression-in-british-fashion 
Source 3. Survey of historic costume.

2. Banyan - Michaela Facuri

The Banyan was a men’s loose-fitting garment that was known as a nightgown, morning
gown, or dressing gown. Though it was known as a nightgown, that doesn’t mean it was
worn to sleep or any kind of sleepwear. It was also known as Indian gowns because of
their origins from Oriental influences. Banyans came in various styles; from the popular
loose, full kimono style to more form fitting with set-in sleeves. The fabrics used to make
banyans were cotton calicos, silk, brocades, velvets, taffetas, satins, wool worsteds, or
calamancos. This dressing gown was usually worn inside, and if you were a friend that
was received while wearing this it showed the hosts informality and intimacy they have
with the visitors. Though the banyan was usually worn inside, it was worn out of the
home as well. This garment was popular for men to wear when they had their portraits
painted. 
Sources:
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank (p. 275)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banyan_(clothing) 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/banyan/ 
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/87231 
3. Boot Cuffs-Mads Wilkins

Boot cuffs were very large sleeve cuffs that went up to the elbow. Open sleeves
on the cuffs of jackets went out of style in the 1750s and so the cuffs on jacket
 sleeves were especially popular during this time. They were very deep and it was
suggested that these cuffs were designed to receive stolen goods. These cuffs
were very wide at the top of the cuff and the top edge had buttons along it. 
http://www.theweebsite.com/18cgarb/1700.html
https://handboundcostumes.co.uk/customer-care/customer-library/glossary-2/
glossary/
Survey of Historic Costume p.273
5. Calash (Caleche)
6. Casaquin- Sabrina Walmer

a.
b. The garment was mainly worn during the 18th century in Italy and France.
A tight fitted and mid- short length coat of sorts made for women of middle
to upper class. Meant to be shown off, decorated with embroidery, laces’,
and silks’. Worn on top , original design for a petticoat bodice. For extra
design elements it could also be made with pleats or ruffles. The
embroideryfeatures contained elements sometimes of fruits, animals,
flowers, and dancing figures.
c. Source 1:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casaquin
d. Source 2: https://blog.americanduchess.com/2010/10/what-is-difference-
between-caraco-and.html
e. Source 3: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/448319337910241800/

8. Club Wig: Sarah Smith

 Due to syphilis, a lot of people suffered from patchy hair loss. Good hair was
associated with status and style, baldness and hair loss compounded the shame
of having syphilis. Wigs were commonly used to cover up hair loss. It did not
become widespread until Kings like Louis XIV experienced hair loss. They came
in a variety of colors but powdered wigs were preferred for formal dress. Wigs
were made of human hair, horsehair, or goat hair. They were expensive. A man
could outfit himself with a hat, coat, breeches, shirt, hose, and shoes for about
what a wig would cost him.
Source: Survey of Historic Costume Pg. 276 
https://www.battlefields.org/learn/head-tilting-history/rise-and-fall-powdered-wig
https://thebeautifultimes.wordpress.com/2011/09/05/1700%C2%B4s-wigs/

13. Engageantes-Kyla Pratt

Engageantes were a false sleeve or cuff worn with women’s clothing. They could be
made of lace, cambric, or muslin. They were pieces of fabric with gathered decorative
fabric attached to it. It could have just one layer, or multiple. It usually came down to the
woman’s lower arm. They were created because lace was expensive and couldn’t be
attached to just one article of clothing. The lace usually matched the lace that was worn
on the woman’s cap or tucked into her bodice.
Sources:
http://bloshka.info/2021/06/06/engageantes/ 
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-18th-
Century/Engageantes.html 
https://www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/about-us/archive/past-exhibitions/102-news/
1054-engageantes 
14. False Rump: Jillian Hohnholz
Summary: The “robe à l’Anglaise” was very popular for women in the 1780s and was
not considered complete without a lot of extra fabric and padding. To go along with the
fuller bust, the hips and rump area were padded. The padding used in the back was
called a “false rump” and was usually made of a light weight material such as cork.
These false rumps would come in a variety of sizes and some would even have a split
pattern, which consisted of two cushions next to each other to simulate buttocks.
Sources: Survey of Historic Costume p.282,
https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2018/04/28/false-rump-1780s/ ,
https://thedreamstress.com/2020/04/a-late-18th-c-bum-rump/ 
17. Fashion Babies: Brianne Heer

A fashion baby is a fashion doll that was used to model clothes in the 18th century.
Clothes were very expensive to make, so instead of making a full scale of the outfit
stores would make these dolls to show the clothes. Dolls became very popular as the
only other alternative was fashion plates. Dolls were sent all over Europe and even
traveled to the American colonies. Dolls became so popular people made matching
outfits to match them.
The Fashion Doll - The Fashion Historian
Walk, Walk, Fashion Baby: 18th Century Fashion Dolls - The Costume Society
Textbook pg 270
18. Frock Coat: Ruby Alder
A frock coat is a collared coat worn by men. The frock coat was knee lengthed with
buttons to the waist and a full skirt, which mirrored the ideal silhouette for women. It was
a symbol of British masculinity and empire. The frock coat was popular through the
eighteenth, nineteenth, and twentieth centuries, becoming less popular after World War
I, however, it's influence is still seen today in mens coats. 

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/frock-coat/ 
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84364 
https://reconstructinghistory.com/blogs/victorian/the-history-of-the-frock-coat 
20. Hedgehog Hairstyle - Lillian Hagey

A well known hairstyle first introduced in the late 18th century around 1780, the
Hedgehog style is a frizzy tight curls hairstyle worn full and wide with long curls going
down the shoulders and back. The frizzier the better. This was a big change from the
tall and structured hair of the previous fades, to softer and less structured styles. Queen
Marie Antoinette favored this style of hair because it supported all the head accessories
she’d be wearing.
https://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2017/03/from-paris-to-new-york-city-hedgehog.html

https://www.facebook.com/CustomWigCompany/posts/the-hedgehog-a-common-hairstyle-of-
the-late-18th-century-where-the-hair-was-full/3796232890450606/

https://my18thcenturysource.tumblr.com/post/131093073387/hairstyle-hedgehog

23. Mantua-Style Gown – Annie Diviney

A gown that was cut in one piece from shoulder to hem! They were more popular in
England. The petticoats were visible in the Mantua dresses. Decorative finishes and
trims adorned the petticoats. The gowns were fitted in the front and back. These gowns
were very elaborate with exquisite details. These gowns were draped more and had a
looser fit than previous styles of the 18th century. Originally these gowns were deemed
informal by the king of France. However, he did not have the last word and the gowns
gained popularity and became formal. Multiple heavy and decorative petticoats would
have been worn underneath for structure and adornment.

Sources: Survey of Historic Costume p.280

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81809

https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/2019/11/27/1690s-mantua-ensemble-
part-1-foundations/ 
 28. Shepherdess Hat: Esther Wambold

The bergère (French for shepherdess) hat first appeared in the 1730s and was very
popular during the 18th century. Bergère hats are straw hats with wide, flat brims and
shallow crowns. They were usually decorated with ribbons and flowers. They could be
worn in various ways, such as with the brim folded back or turned up or down.
Sometimes they are called milkmaid hats. This hat style fits into the pastoral fashions
that were popular during the 18th century.

Hat | British | The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (2023). The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107266

VEMRA org. (2016, August 29). Victoria-Esquimalt Military Re-enactors Association. Victoria-Esquimalt

Military Re-Enactors Association. http://www.vemra.org/blog/2016/8/26/bergere

To style a bergère. (2013, June 22). Fashion through Herstory; Fashion Through Herstory.

https://fashionthroughherstory.com/2013/06/22/to-style-a-bergere/

Terminology: What is a bergere? - The Dreamstress. (2013, March 27). The Dreamstress.

https://thedreamstress.com/2013/03/terminology-what-is-a-bergere/

40. Skeleton Suit - Celesta Graham 

 A “skeleton suit” refers to the three piece set, typically worn by young boys above
the age of 7 or 8 in the 1800s. This set included a pair of trousers, a white
collared shirt, and a waist-length jacket. The jacket, usually fitted or tight, ended
at the waist, and the trousers went down to the ankle with a straight leg.
Decorative aspects of the suit include a frill or ruffle at the edge of the wide collar,
and rows of buttons on the jacket. 

Sources:
*Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition
*https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/skeleton-suit/
*https://dumbartonhouse.org/preparing-for-the-ball/

42. Smocking–Allie Stoddard

Smocking is a style of embroidery that holds together pleats with ornamental stitching.
This style was originally used to decorate the smock-like shirts of Spanish shepherds.
This technique allows fabric to stretch. In a time before elastic, this would have been
very valuable! This means that although it may be decorative and pretty, it helped
ensure that these smocks could move with people that were involved in some pretty
intense physical labor, the same way that we wear stretchy clothing to the gym. The
image below is a sample of different kinds of stitches that can be used to create the
smocking effect.
Sources: Oxford dictionary, textbook, and wikipedia
The book says a steinkirk was a style of the cravat in which the tie pulled through the
buttonhole and twisted loosely. It was named after a battle in 1692 in which soldiers
were supposed to have twisted their cravats loosely. It was supposed to look messy. It
was the original messy bun but on your neck. The steinkirk was used most in the 18th
century because the original cravats were hard to wear and put on so they went for a
messier and easier look. 
http://ranawayfromthesubscriber.blogspot.com/2010/08/steinkirk-tie.html 
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/334462709828494667/ 
THE BOOK

46. Toupee - Hope Vander Meiden

https://rodama1789.blogspot.com/2020/01/fashions-in-wigs-early-18th-century.html
https://www.britannica.com/art/toupee

The toupee is a wig that originally started out as a “natural wig”, only helping cover a
hair receding line for men or women. But, as the years went out, it became a fashion
statement. The “wig” was able to cover the back, shoulders and parts of the chest area.
Sooner than later, wealthy people or people of social status started to make this an
iconic statement of fashion. These toupee were worn by a majority of men in the 18th
century, until it was swept away by French and American revolutions. Today, you can
see some political figures or judges wearing these in the United Kingdom.