REI PB Materials Quality and Process Manual

REI PRIVATE BRANDS
MATERIALS QUALITY &

PROCESS MANUAL
Confidential and Proprietary

Contacts / Questions
This manual has been created to communicate our quality
requirements. If you have questions, please contact us.
Thank you for your committed efforts in providing outstanding
quality product. We look forward to continuing our partnership.
[ 1-253-395-3780 USA ]

Table of Contents
 Grading Definitions
 Zoning Charts
 Fabric Inspection Systems & Guidelines

 Fabric Defects
 Process Guidelines
 REI Material Development
 Bulk Fabric Quality Issue
 REI Bulk Shrinkage Tolerance
 REI Color Guidebook
 REI Bulk Color Approval

Grading Definitions:
Defects & Non-Conformities
[C] CRITICAL = SAFETY or HEALTH HAZARD
[M] Major = Functional Defect/Non‐Conformity or
would prevent customer purchase.
[m] Minor = Defect/Non‐Conformity is not functional;
it is noticeable but would not prevent customer
purchase; three minors equal one major during
finished product quality audit.
KEY:
C – Critical Defect
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
ZONING CHARTS
Garment Zones 1 & 3
Z-3
Z-3
Z-1
Z-1
Z-1
Z-1
Z-1
Z-3
Zoning Confidential and Proprietary

Garment Zones 1 & 2
Z-1
Z-2 Z-2
Z-2
Z-1
Z-1
Z-2 Z-2
Zoning Confidential and Proprietary

Packs Zone 1- Hood, Front and Side Panels
Z1 - Side
Z1 - Front

Packs Zone 2 - Back Panel and Bottom
hel
p
Z2 – Back Panel

Packs Zone 3 – Internal Components
Z3 – Internal Components

Packs Zone 4 – Suspension System
Z4 – Waist Belt Harness System
Z4 – Shoulder Harness System

Tents Zone 1 – Outside surface of tent, fly,
vestibule, tent carry sack and any sack “sold separately”
Z1 – Tent Canopy
Z1 – Tent Fly

Tents Zone 2 – Inside surface of tent, fly
and vestibule around door
Z2 – Tent Canopy:
Interior
Z2 – Vestibule:
Interior
Zoning
Tents Zone 3 – Floor inside/outside, fly
inside beyond door, footprints and parts sacks
Z3 – Floor: Inside and Outside

Sleeping Bags Zones 1-3
Z-3
Z-3
Z-1 Z-2
Zoning
Confidential and
Confidential Proprietary
and Proprietary
FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEMS
& GUIDELINES
Fabric Inspections
Systems & Guidelines
•The supplier is responsible for performing initial fabric inspections following the REI Gear and Apparel Bulk Fabric
Quality Issue Process guidelines. The REI Gear and Apparel Bulk Fabric Quality Issue Process is located in the
“Process” section of this guideline.
•Odor
•The whole container will be rejected if there is any odor.
•Color matching
•Use D65 – sunlight as primary light and U30/TL84 light source as secondary store light, please refer to REI color guidebook.
•Shading
•No roll will be accepted as 1st quality that reveals a noticeable degree of shading (AATCC gray scale shade rating 4-5) when evaluated under
D65 light from side to side, side to center or end to end.
•REI minimum standard for shading on a finished product :
• Within a product = 4~5 by gray scale (ISO International Standard R105/I, Parts 2)
• Product to product = 4 by gray scale (ISO International Standard R105/I, Parts 2)
•Splices
•Rolls containing a splice of less than 35 yards will not be accepted; maximum of 2 splices per roll.
•Holes
•Each yard will be penalized a maximum of 4 points
•Running defect
• If any defect is found in a continuous warp direction, each yard of defect will be assigned 4 points.
• If any roll has a running/repeat defect of more than 3 continuous yards, it will be rejected.
•Roll length
•The acceptable tolerance is +/- 1% from the specified length for any roll.
• Fabric width
• The beginning, middle and end of each roll must be checked and verified against the stated fabric width as a routine record.
• Width deviation of more than 1% would be constituted as a major fault.
Fabric Inspection Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

Fabric Inspections (cont.)
•Fabric construction & weight
• The weight of fabric cannot be more than +/- 5% from the stated fabric weight.
• Construction and weight will be randomly checked at least twice per inspection.
•Fabric Shrinkage
•Fabric shrinkage variance should not be more than +/-3% for woven fabric or +/- 5% for kit fabrics, from roll to roll or lot to lot.
•Maximum Bow/Bias (Skew) allowed per linear yard

•Bias (Skew): the filling/course yarns that are off square to the warp/wale.
•Bow: the filling/course that lies in an arc across the fabric width.
•No roll will be accepted as 1st quality that bows appear more than the table below:
Fabric Width Maximum Bow allowed per linear yard
Solid
Solid Knit Woven Yarn Dyed & Print
45” 1” ½” 3/4”
60” 1 ½” 1” 1”
90” 2” 1 ½” 1 ½”
120” 2 ½” 1 ¾” 2”
•Bow example:
•A solid knit with fabric width of 60” that has a bow extending from the edge to the center would be allowed to have a maximum bow of 1 ½”.

Degree of Bias (Skew) Measurement
To measure the degree of bias (skew), cut the fabric follow the line of bias (skew) or cut it in a straight line in the weft direction. Pulling out the weft
yarns one at a time until one of the weft yarns can be pulled out completely. Fold the fabric and line up the lowest point and highest point in a
straight line for degree of bias (skew) measurement.
The maximum tolerance is 3%
Degree of bias (skew) = AB x100
BC
4-point system (sample plan)

All types of fabric can be graded by this system
Shipped Quantity Yards to be inspected %

1 ~ 2,500 yds 1 roll per color ~ 500 yds 20%
2,501 ~ 5,000 yds 300 ~ 500 yds 10%
5,001 ~ 20,000 yds 501 ~ 2,000 yds 10%
20,001 ~ 3,0000 yds 2,001 ~ 3,000 yds 10%
> 30,001 yds > 3,000+ yds 10%
• No more than 4 points can be assigned to each single defect.

• Regardless of the number of defects per yard, no linear yard can contain more than 4 points.
• Assign 4 points to each full width defect.
• Regardless of size or contrast, 4 points will be assigned on each yard with noticeable and severe defects.
• Assign 4 points to every yard with a continuous defect in a shipment lot (i.e. drop needle, bias (skew), bow, creasing, narrow width, roll to roll
shading, barre’, etc.)

•4-point defect evaluation
•Points are assigned according to the following criteria:
Demerit points Size of defect

1 3” or less
2 > 3” ~ < 6”
3 > 6” ~ <9”
•Point calculation 4 Over 9”
•Roll points :
•Per 100 sq. yds = Demerit points in total linear x 100 x 36
• Inspected yards x Cuttable width in inches
•Shipment points :
•Per 100 sq. yds = Total demerit points in linear per shipment x 36” x 100
• Total yards inspected x Cut width in inches
•Acceptable tolerance:
Points allowed per
Fabric Points allowed per roll shipment
Outerwear functional fabric in knit and woven 15 pts/100 yd2 10 pts/100 yd2
All Synthetics filament / spun Twill 15 pts/100 yd2 10 pts/100 yd2
Gingham/Oxford/Poplin
Plain Weave fabrics 20 pts/100 yd2 12 pts/100 yd2
Basic knits
Corduroy/Velvet
Linen 25 pts/100 yd2 15 pts/100 yd2
Special and fancy knits
Novelty weaves
Flannel
Silk
Wovens with Elastane
Madras 60 pts/100 yd2 50 pts/100 yd2
Linen Blends 40 pts/100 yd2 32 pts/100 yd2
Rayon blends
•Note: Fabric quality inspection results must support conformity to REI finished garment grading process, including grading definitions and garment zones.
•7/23/2010

FABRIC DEFECTS
Important Note:
• The following section includes many, but is not limited to, all of the defects we may find
unacceptable.
• Mark all defects during inspection on the selvedge.
Mold or Strong Odor
BAD
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
C C C
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
C C C C
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Fabric Defects Confidential and Proprietary
Marks
BAD
Abrasion
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Pressure Mark
BAD
Pressure mark from
hard object
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Permanent Crease Mark
BAD
Permanent Crease Mark
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Surface Damage
BAD
Damage by spray cleaning
gun
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Dirt
BAD
Dirt on warp yarn
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Water Mark
BAD
Water mark – reject the whole
container if odor exists
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Weft mark
BAD
Weft mark
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Stop Mark
BAD
Stop mark from brushing
failure
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Raise Failure Mark
BAD
Raise failure mark
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Dye Streak
BAD
Dyed streak
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Crease From Dyeing
BAD
Crease from dyeing during the
finishing process
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Color Shading: A change in shade, either abrupt or
gradual on each roll, side to side, side to center or end to end.
GOOD AATCC gray scale standard (ISO

International Standard R105/I, part 2)
-- A P P A R E L --
Within one roll : 4 ~ 5
Within one garment : 4 ~ 5
Garment to garment : 4
---- G E A R -----
Within one roll : 4 ~ 5
Within one product : 4 ~ 5
Product to product : 4
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Burn Mark
BAD
Burn mark on the fleece back
-- A P P A R E L --
of functional fabric
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Inconsistent Direction of Pile
BAD
Inconsistent direction of pile on the
back of functional outerwear fabric
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Rumple
BAD
Rumple around surface of
-- A P P A R E L --
bonded fabric edge
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Water Leak Mark
BAD Water leak mark during

hydrostatic pressure test
on water proof fabric
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Lamination Defect
BAD
Lamination defect
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Snag
BAD
Snag
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wale Cut Failure on Corduroy
BAD
Wale cut failure on
corduroy
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Loose Tension
BAD
Loose tension on stretchy
fabric
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Misprint
BAD
Misprint – color out
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Misprint
BAD
Misprint – screen blocked
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Misprint
BAD Misprint – printed paste leaked

on the weft prior to back
coating
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Print Failure
BAD Print failure – white spots

caused by excess fiber (pre-
print process issue)
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Weft Filament Yarn
BAD
Weft filament yarn missed
-- A P P A R E L --
on the printed fabric
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Bad Needle
BAD
Bad needle
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Broken End
BAD
Broken end
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Broken End
BAD
Broken end
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Warp Yarn End Frayed
BAD
Warp yarn end frayed
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Uneven Warp Yarn
BAD
Uneven warp yarn
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wrong Warp
BAD
Wrong warp
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wrong Warp
BAD
Wrong warp
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wrong Warp
BAD
Wrong warp on yarn dyed
filament fabric
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wrong Warp Threading
BAD Wrong warp threading –

coated back folded over to the
top to show the appearance
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Thick Course Yarn on Jersey
BAD
Thick course yarn on
jersey
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wrong Repeat on Weft
BAD
Wrong repeat on weft
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Wrong Warp Threading
BAD
Wrong warp threading
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Broken Weft with Thick Yarn
BAD
Broken weft with thick yarn
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Broken Weft
BAD
Broken weft on filament fabric
with back coating
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Broken Weft
BAD
Broken weft on filament
yarn
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Tight Tension on Knit
BAD
Tight tension on knit
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Knot Made Tension
BAD
Knot created tight tension
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Hole Caused by Knot
BAD
Hole caused by knot
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Excess Dyed Fiber
BAD
Excess dyed fiber
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
White Foreign Fiber
BAD
White foreign fiber stayed
inside the construction
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Weft Yarn Mixed with Fiber
BAD
Weft yarn mixed with fiber
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Fuzzy Ball
BAD
Fuzzy ball caused by excess
-- A P P A R E L --
fiber encircling the yarn
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M m
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M m M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Slub on Filament Fabric
BAD
Slub on filament fabric
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
Hole
BAD
Hole
-- A P P A R E L --
Z1 Z2 Z3
M M M
---- G E A R -----
Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4
M M M M
KEY:
M – Major Defect
m – Minor Defect
Z – Zone
PROCESS GUIDELINES
REI Materials Development
REI
Materials REI
REI Fabric Development Process: Developer STR Color Mill Factory
Materials Developer requests swatches of in-line fabrics. 

Materials Developer specifies performance and aesthetic requirements for a custom
developments. The mill starts trial yardage. 
Mill submits trial yardage for evaluation with fabric detail sheet. RM Developer
reviews the trial and approves or rejects it. If rejected, the RM developer and the mill  
discuss if the results can be improved and start a new submit.
Materials Developer requests yardage for lab testing and sends a test request to
STR and the mill.   
The mill sends the fabric and test request form to STR. 
STR sends lab test results to REI.  
If the test results are passing, the Materials Developer sends a copy to the mill to
use as the performance standard for bulk fabric.  
If the test results are failing, the Materials Developer and the mill discuss whether
the results can be improved and start a new submit.  
Materials Developer sends a swatch of the passing fabric to the mill. This swatch is
the standard for hand and appearance of bulk fabric.  
Process Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

REI
REI
REI Fabric Development Process (continued): Materials STR Mill Factory
Developer Color
The Product Developer sends a swatch of the passing fabric and a copy of the test 
report to the factory so the factory can inspect incoming fabric against the fabric
standards.
The Materials Developer requests available fabric for first prototypes and asks the
mill to hold the fabric until it is requested by a factory.  
The Materials Developer sends the mill a schedule of when fabric will be needed to
support prototypes, field test samples and Line Presentation samples. The schedule
estimates how much fabric will be required and the deadline for the fabric to be  
shipped to the factory. The mills begin to prepare/reserve greige in preparation for
the factories’ orders so the orders can be filled upon receipt.
REI requests lab dips.  

The factory places orders to mills for the exact amounts of fabric they need for each
set of fit, field test and Line Presentation samples 
Materials Developer negotiates fabric pricing. 
For long lead-time fabrics, the Materials Developer advises fabric forecasts to the 
mills so they can prepare greige in advance of receiving bulk orders. 

REI
REI
REI Fabric Development Process (continued): Materials STR Mill Factory
Developer Color
POs are written by REI to the factory. The factory issues orders to the raw materials
suppliers.  
REI may request that the mill send certain color or fabric lots to REI for approval
before shipping.   
The mill should bring any quality or delivery issues to the attention of REI and the
factory before shipping the fabric. Please follow the Bulk Issue Resolution process to    
quickly resolve bulk fabric issues.
REI product use A grade fabric only.

• The development test results are the minimum standard for bulk fabric performance.
• The development fabric swatch is the standard for fabric appearance, hand and drape.
• The approved lab dip is the standard for the 1st bulk dye lot.
• The 1st bulk dye lot becomes the color standard once approved. All future bulk must match the 1st bulk dye lot.
updated 9/16/2009

Bulk Fabric Quality Issue
Overview: Document the external process for resolving bulk quality issues between the factories and raw materials suppliers.
Objectives:
Create a clear process for resolving raw materials quality issues between the factories and suppliers that will enable the teams to
resolve issues quickly and efficiently.
Roles:
The mill is expected to identify all defects (quality and color) prior to shipping and notify REI and the factory of any issues.
The factory is expected to inspect fabric upon receipt and bring any issues to REI and the mill’s attention.
Mill
• Inspect the fabric prior to shipment for color quality and defects using a 4.0 fabric inspection system.
• Mark defects. Inspection reports should be available to REI and the factory upon request.
• If the color does not match the approved lab dip or the amount of defects will cause the net fabric shipment to be short by more
than 5%, notify REI and the factory prior to shipping for approval to proceed.
• Submit a Mill Fabric Issues Template that summarizes the nature of the defect(s) and the amount of affected yardage by color
and order.
• Advise the earliest possible delivery date for replacement yardage in the first communication so that REI can determine how to
proceed.
• Send cuttings that show the defect to REI for evaluation.
Factory
• Inspect fabric upon receipt per guidelines established in the REI Fabric Inspection Systems and Guidelines document. If
significant defects are found, notify REI and proceed to 100% inspection.
• If defects are found notify the mill and REI immediately
• Submit a Mill Fabric Issues Template fabric defect sheet to summarize the nature of the defect(s) and the amount of affected
yardage by color and order.
• Send cuttings that show the defects to both the Mill and REI for evaluation.
Timing
The expectation is this information will be communicated as quickly as possible so that the issue can be resolved without delaying
shipment of finished product.

REI Bulk Shrinkage Tolerance
Overview: Process to establish shrinkage consistency from roll to roll and lot to lot in bulk fabric production, and
process for communicating out-of-tolerance fabrics.
Timing: After fabric approval and prior to bulk fabric shipping to factory and on-going as necessary.
ITEM RMD PROCESS DETAILS
Roll to Roll, Lot to Lot RMD forwards copy of Test results sent to mill – Communicate any out-of-
Shrinkage Control approved test results to Mill RMD confirms with mill that tolerance lots or rolls
to use as the performance 2% shrinkage roll to roll and immediately to REI QA
standard for bulk production lot to lot can be maintained Manager, REI Material
in bulk mill tests bulk fabric Developer and REI-
(all rolls, all lots). Mill nominated garment factory.
verifies no test result Follow the Bulk Quality
exceeds the approved Issue Review Process –
result, and there is not more External process for issue
than 2% variance across all resolution
test results. If bulk fabric
shrinkage testing falls
outside the 2%, mill to send
test results to REI QA
manager for review. Mill
provides bulk test results to
garment factory

REI COLOR GUIDEBOOK
COLOR SUBMISSION PROCESS
Lab Dip Requests Sent To the Mill
The mill will receive an email from the REI Color Office for lab dip requests noting a package containing physical color standard swatches attached to
lab dip requests has been sent to your attention. The email will contain a scanned copy of the contents, including the FedEx packing slip and tracking
number. It will also contain an Excel spreadsheet listing the lab dips requested. A QTX file containing a digital copy of the color standard reflectance
data will be sent via Datacolor Track from colorlab@rei.com with both a Quicktime file and HTML version attached.
Please confirm receipt of the emails and package. Please advise the estimated submission date at that time.
NOTE: Print strikeoffs, yarn dye handlooms, and two-tone heathers are exempt from spectral review. Artwork hardcopies and discs will
be sent to the mill in the same manner as solid lab dip requests.
Lab Dip Request Form
This form can be copied and used to submit lab dips back to the REI Color Office.
Lab Dip Submits Sent From the Mill
Please submit lab dips within 7-14 days upon receipt of the request to the address noted on the lab dip request form. The following must be included
on the submit form:
• Date Sent
• Vendor Name
• Fabric Article #
• Department: This is listed on the Lab Dip Request form within the description (ex: D18 Tot Fleece Vest is for Dept 18)
• Contact Person: This is the name and email of the person at your mill that we need to send comments back to.
• Style Reference: This is listed on the Lab Dip Request form within the description (ex: D18 Tot Fleece Vest)
• Comments: Please advise any comments on the submit form that pertain to colorfastness issues or dye restraints.
Use one Lab Dip Submission form per color and fabric for our processing purposes.
Lab dip numbers should be progressive with each submit (example: 1st submit, dips labeled A, B, C, D; 2nd submit, dips labeled E, F, G, H). It is
acceptable to use the mill's identifying numbers/letters as long as it is clearly labeled with each submission and no duplicate dip ID#s are submitted.
This will help avoid any possible confusion on which dip to proceed to bulk with.
Lab dip submits should be at least 2"x2" so that they can be folded for potential review using a spectrophotometer. A minimum of 2 dips should be
sent with each submission, per color, in order to choose the best option for the program. If you internally reject lab dips, please send them along with
the dye lab approved option.
Please be sure to apply the lab dip swatches to the submit sheet with the face of the material facing up and preferably all cut in the same direction to
avoid shading concerns due to texture or finish.
COLOR SUBMISSION PROCESS
Print strikeoffs and yarn dye handlooms should be submitted to the REI Color Office in the same manner as solid and two-tone heather lab dips.
The Designer will advise comments directly to the mill unless otherwise specified.
Please email the REI Colorist and copy the Materials Assistant (if not the original requester) upon sending the lab dip submits and include the
package tracking details. This will help speed up the commenting process and avoid lost packages.
If all details are clear and complete, the comments should be returned to the vendor within 24hrs upon receipt of the package depending on the high
or low volume of packages received. During the heavy start of the season, it is necessary to prioritize by fabric leadtime. Please wait 4 days from
the estimated receipt date to contact REI for comments unless it is urgent.
NOTE: If you are sending QTX files with color spectral data please be sure to include the following data exactly as written here in the Subject line of
the email: DCTrack::
Our current software configuration with our Product Lifecycle Management tool requires QTX files be sent from Datacolor Tools version
1.3.1 using our screen form. You are welcome to submit QTX files from your software, but comments will be returned in a different
format.
Lab Dip Submission Forms
Please use a copy of the request form to submit lab dips as there is space allotted for 4 lab dips to be attached and the colorfastness information
added. If you prefer to receive an emailed copy of an Excel format, please inform the REI Color Office. A copy of that form is noted here as well.
REI Color Office Expectations of the Mill
–Provide timely responses to emailed questions (within 48hrs). If the mill needs to do further research for an answer, please advise so. If we do not
know that you are working on an answer, we will continue to ask for it until received.
–Send production quality lab dip fabrics or at least as close to production quality as possible (please advise detailed reasons for non-production
quality).
–Submit 1st round lab dip submits within 14 days of the request and subsequent resubmission rounds within 7 days upon receipt of comments.
–Note any concerns on colorfastness. We understand that not all suppliers have testing equipment that can monitor colorfastness for lab dips, but
we expect the dye lab to be the experts in understanding the dyestuff limitations and notify us of colors that are of concern. Our requirements are:
• Laundry / Stain: class 4
• Light (20 fading units or 20 hours): class 3.5
• Crocking: Dry > 4, Wet > 4
–Send large dips and at least 2 dips to choose from (4 is best).
–Send QTX files for each lab dip submitted consolidated as one file (desktop copy of spectrophotometer color software) to colorlab@rei.com with
the subject line starting with DCTrack::.if you have Datacolor Tools Version 1.3.1 available.
–Keep us updated on changes and provide status reports.
–Keep a copy of approved lab dips on hand at the mill in order to send a set to the garment factory upon placement of their bulk fabric order so that
the bulk color approval process goes smoothly.
COLOR COMMUNICATION
Terminology and Color Descriptions
To insure effective color communication in worldwide sourcing it is useful to adopt the color terminology of the International Commission on
Illumination (C.I.E.). This terminology is also in accordance with the practices and test methods of the American Society for Testing and
Materials (ASTM), and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC).
In describing color differences between the STANDARD and the SUBMITTED SAMPLE, it is recommended to use the C.I.E. system for color
approvals, comments, and color descriptions.
Lightness (L*) represents the dimension of lightness and darkness for a color. Dark colors have low values of L*, whereas a perfect white sample
would have an L* value of 100. Lightness L* is sometimes referred to as Value.
Another dimension of color is Chroma represented by the C* value. Chroma is defined as the degree of color purity, saturation, or brilliance
for a given color. Samples which have very low Chroma would be either white, gray, or black shades. These colors are sometimes called
achromatic, for lack of Chroma.
The third dimension of color is the Hue represented by the H* value. The hue of a color is associated with the dimension of shade, or cast of a
color such as red, green, blue, yellow, violet, etc.
Using the C.I.E. system for communication, color differences may be communicated as follows:
Color Comments Sent To the Mill
Comments will be advised back to the mill via email starting with how we see the color (too dark/blue) and then advise how the color should be corrected
(go lighter/yellower). If more than one lab dip is submitted per color/fabric, the REI Colorist will choose the closest submit to the standard and usage in
the line to base comments off of and the others are disregarded. Spectral data will be sent via Datacolor Track with QTX file attached from
colorlab@rei.com for the lab dip/batch being commented on as closest to standard for each color/fabric combination submitted.
If the dip is approved due to timing or dye limitations, but it is not 100% to standard, comments may be given to avoid a bulk rejection, such as:
“approved, but go no darker, no brighter in bulk”.
*** Please note that comments provided are not intended for bulk correction. The bulk must match the approved lab dip. Comments are only guidelines to
advise what to have the dyer keep under control and be aware of. If a bulk color flares in the direction advised against, it will be rejected.
If there are any questions or clarification needed, please ask by reply to the emailed comments and we will gladly advise further to avoid confusion.
NOTE: To provide faster comments, we are progressing toward sending the majority of solid color fabric comments via Datacolor Track to all
suppliers. There will be a QTX file and an HTML file attached. The HTML should be available to view by all who do not have color quality
software. Please discuss the ability to receive HTML files via email with your technical services department to prevent these files from
entering your junk email or not passing through your fire wall protection. We will continue to send email comments from our individual
Outlook accounts for a short time, but please be prepared to only receive the HTML version for solid colors.
LIGHTING AND STANDARD ILLUMINANTS
Visual assessments should be performed using a standardized lighting cabinet. The REI Color Office uses GretagMacbeth Judge II. Please note that it
is key to maintain consistency of the color between the two different light sources to avoid flaring, even if the standard flares. It is very important for our
product to look close to the color standard while in use outdoors, but it must be a consistent color within the store that they are purchasing it from.
REI Primary: D65 Daylight
REI Secondary: U30 or TL84 (represents our store lighting)
COLOR EVALUATION -VISUAL ASSESSMENT PROCEDURES
Samples for visual assessment must be allowed to condition to ambient room conditions prior to making judgments. Samples that have not been
conditioned will show sensitivity to moisture and temperature. Using the specified light cabinet, the following guidelines should be used:
• The cabinet surface must be clear of other samples.
• Remove dips from white submission page to view against grey light box and color standard (label if necessary to avoid mix up).
• The observer should allow 20 seconds of adaptation to the illumination in the lighting cabinet. When changing from one light source to another, the
observer should allow 20 seconds of adaptation before making judgment.
• The standard and the sample must be aligned next to each other with their edges slightly touching (see figure below).
• The standard and the sample must be aligned in the same direction with respect to weave, knit pattern, or other textures.
• View single ply lab dip to single ply of the color standard, unless folding is required to create opacity for sheer articles.
• The standard and the sample should be illuminated from directly overhead and observed at an angle of 45 degrees (0/45 viewing).
• The observer should note color differences in Lightness, Chroma, and Hue.
• Any additional light source, other than the light booth, in the viewing area should be eliminated or turned off when viewing colors for approval.
Sample Orientation Diagram
Rib Standard Rib Lab Dip
Yarn Standard Yarn Lab Dip
L IG H T S O U R C E
450
SA M PLE
0/45 Visual Color Assessment Using the Light Cabinet

COLOR EVALUATION –INSTRUMENTAL PROCEDURES
In addition to visual assessment, the use of color technology, such as the SF600X spectrophotometer with ColorTools QC software, adds support and
quantitative validity to the color assessment. Reliable color measurement provides the basis for color approvals by numerical tolerancing - a process
that is more efficient and objective than visual assessment.
Instrumental assessment is performed using the Datacolor Spectraflash 600X spectrophotometer interfaced with ColorTools QC software. In
order to insure the best possible agreement among measurements, the following configuration is recommended for non-optical textile fabric samples:
*** Please note that spectral data is not accepted without a final visual confirmation that confirms the color is approvable.
Color Difference: CMC (2:1)

Specular Included
Component:
UV component: Excluded (400nm cutoff)
Illuminants: D65 for Daylight, U30, TL84
Observer: 10 degree (1964)
Aperture: MAV
Flashes: 2
Conditioning: 30 minutes minimum at standard lab conditions 72F, 65%RH
Sample Prep.: Folded until opaque (no light passes through), usually 2-4 folds
Green Tile: Measured, checked and stored to the green tile folder daily
Measurements: Average of 4 with 90 degree rotation AND
repositioning between measurements. Ensure repeatable technique with testing.
DE(CMC): Pass at <0.80 - 1.00, over 1.20 is rejected; 0.80 - 1.20 will be visually re-evaluated
Measurement Technique
The manner in which samples are measured greatly influences the colorimetric output, therefore it is best for all involved in communicating color to
follow the same guidelines and procedures. The following methods have been developed and found to be highly reproducible:
Spectrophotometer Settings
Samples must be measured using the MAV (20mm Medium Area View) aperture. The UV filter is set to UV 400nm cutoff (excluded), and Specular
Component Included (SCI) mode.
Spectrophotometer Maintenance and Calibration
• The SF600X spectrophotometer must be calibrated at least every 8 hours
• Perform the “Green Tile” check on a daily basis.
• The SF600X spectrophotometer should be re-calibrated annually using the SpectralTest service from Datacolor.
• The white tile should be clean and free of scratches.
• The correct white tile calibration file MUST be loaded.
• The black trap should be free of dust.
• All calibration materials should be stored in the original closed case when not in use.
• Ensure that the inside of the sphere is clean and free of lint.
• Keep logs of all maintenance, service, and calibrations.
Sample Size, Presentation and Handling
• Fabric swatches for measurement are to be folded until they are opaque.
• (2) Layers may be suitable for most fabrics however sheer or translucent fabrics may need to be folded twice to form four (4) or more layers for
measurement. End use needs to be considered for special fabrications, such as sleeping bag or other shell fabrics intended to be used on top of down
or synthetic down. These fabrications may alter the hue greatly if folded so they are reviewed single ply.
• For any measurement, make sure the sample is not protruding into the sphere.
• Remove any obstructing items from all samples to be measured. Labels and backing will influence the measurements leading to inaccurate data.
• Check alignment of the sample by flipping down the aperture plate.
• Ensure the commercial front or “face” is facing the aperture port.
• Ensure that the sample is flat and not under tension.
• Ensure that the sample completely covers the aperture.
Measurement and Orientation of Samples
Optimum results are typically obtained by taking four (4) measurements on the fabric, rotating the fabric 90º AND repositioning the fabric to a different
spot between each measurement. The orientation with respect to the texture of the swatch should result in measurements taken at the 90º, 180º, 270º.
The four measurements are automatically averaged by ColorTools QC.
The main requirement is that the technique produces repeatable measurements. The diagrams below indicate fabric grain/or rib direction.
Read 1 Read 2 ( 90º) Read 3 (180º) Read 4 (270º)

REI Bulk Color Approval
REI Materials
Process: Developer REI Color Mill Factory
REI Materials Developer provides seasonal timeline with key lab dip due dates and
PO cut dates. 
REI Colorist requests and approves lab dips during the fabric development process. 
All parties are to use the primary light source of D65 Daylight and the secondary light
source of U30 or TL84 store light.   
Factory receives a seasonal color palette from REI Colorist.  
Factory receives POs from REI and orders bulk fabric from the mill and requests lab
dip swatches. 
Mill provides one approved lab dip swatch to the factory for each ordered color/fabric
(multiple factories will be handled by REI Colorist). 
Mill should match 1st bulk dye lot to the approved lab dip set as the standard. REI
tolerance is:
A) Visual acceptance within 5% of the lab dip approval (hue, chroma and value) and
within the same color quadrant (i.e. hue has not changed from one color to another
like red to green) and
B) Spectrophotometer reading should be a DE within 0.8 and 1.0 of the approved lab 
dip.
Spectral data is not accepted without visual confirmation of color approval. All
proceeding bulk lots should meet the same tolerance criteria in comparison to the 1st
bulk dye lot.

REI Bulk Color Approval
REI Materials
Process (continued): Developer REI Color Mill Factory
The 1st bulk dye lot approved becomes the new standard. Any additional dye lots
should match back to the 1st approved bulk dye lot. The mill needs to send a swatch
of that approval to the factory to be set as the inspection standard. Please send a
swatch with the factory PO attached to the REI Color Office.
If bulk fabric does not match the approved standard, then the mill should send a fabric
sample to the REI Colorist immediately for review using the REI Bulk Submission 
Form. Factory should be informed by mill.
Factory needs to internally confirm color for each lot received from the mill,
maintaining a shade band. REI tolerance is the same as at the mill level. Industry
standard is to inspect 10% of the incoming goods. If a discrepancy is found, 100% 
should be inspected.
If the mill ships fabric in which the factory finds the color questionable, the factory
needs to send a fabric swatch to the REI Colorist, as well as the mill, immediately for
review using the REI Bulk Submission Form before the goods are cut. Swatches of
the prior factory approved lots should also be sent at the same time for comparison.   
The REI Colorist will give direction to the Materials Developer after consultation with
Sourcing. The REI Materials Developer will notify the mill and REI Sourcing will notify
the factory of the final decision.
Required:
Mill will always include the factory in all appropriate communication between the Mill and REI Colorist regarding bulk color in
question.
• The 1st bulk dye lot becomes the standard once approved. All future bulk must match the 1st bulk dye lot.
• The following information must always be communicated to the REI Colorist for the bulk lot(s) in question:
Quantity, Fabric Article Number, REI Garment Style Name/#, Factory Name, Factory PO #

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REI PRIVATE BRANDS

MATERIALS QUALITY &

Confidential and Proprietary

Confidential and Proprietary

 Fabric Inspection Systems & Guidelines

Confidential and Proprietary

[C] CRITICAL = SAFETY or HEALTH HAZARD

Zoning Confidential and Proprietary

Zoning Confidential and Proprietary

Confidential and Proprietary

Confidential and Proprietary

Confidential and Proprietary

Z4 – Waist Belt Harness System

Z4 – Shoulder Harness System

Confidential and Proprietary

Confidential and Proprietary

Z3 – Floor: Inside and Outside

Confidential and Proprietary

Fabric Inspection Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

•Maximum Bow/Bias (Skew) allowed per linear yard

Fabric Inspection Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

4-point system (sample plan)

Shipped Quantity Yards to be inspected %

• No more than 4 points can be assigned to each single defect.

Fabric Inspection Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

Demerit points Size of defect

Fabric Inspection Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

Permanent Crease Mark

Dirt on warp yarn

Raise failure mark

GOOD AATCC gray scale standard (ISO

BAD Water leak mark during

Misprint – color out

Misprint – screen blocked

BAD Misprint – printed paste leaked

BAD Print failure – white spots

Warp yarn end frayed

Uneven warp yarn

BAD Wrong warp threading –

Wrong repeat on weft

Wrong warp threading

Broken weft with thick yarn

Tight tension on knit

Hole caused by knot

Excess dyed fiber

Weft yarn mixed with fiber

Slub on filament fabric

Materials Developer requests swatches of in-line fabrics. 

Process Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

REI requests lab dips.  

Process Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

REI product use A grade fabric only.

Process Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

Process Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

ITEM RMD PROCESS DETAILS

Process Guidelines Confidential and Proprietary

Sample Orientation Diagram

Rib Standard Rib Lab Dip