ALBANIA, JANORAS & PARILLA BS PHARMA 3A

COSMETIC FORMULATION REPORTING

REPORTING #3: MEN’S TOILETRIES

1. INTRODUCTION:
Shaving-related products probably account for the male-oriented skin-care sector and those positioned for
sensitive skin have a particular appeal as a significant portion of men both in the UK and a number of European
countries perceive themselves to have sensitive skin.

What are the differences between the skin of males and females? While skin does thin with age, men have
thicker dermis that helps to give their skin greater elasticity as they get older. The thinner skin of females, when
subjected to the elements, UV radiation and pollution, is more affected by the resultant cumulative damage
thereby accounting for the more pronounced deterioration with age. Males exhibit greater sebum production
than females and possibly this accounts for the propensity of male skin to form spots. Sebum production
increases until middle-age for both men and women, falling off after about the age of forty.

Testosterone is the hormone that causes males to develop masculine features, which causes their skin to be
rough and necessitates a unique method that is only suitable for male skin. Estrogen aids in the development of
female features in women, including the softening of their skin.
https://sublimelife.in/blogs/sublime-stories/men-v-s-women-s-skin-what-is-the-real-difference
Thickness
In general male skin is thicker, oilier and ages differently.
Male skin is, on average, approximately 20% thicker than female skin. It contains more collagen and has a
tighter, firmer appearance.
The collagen content of male skin reduces at a constant rate. Female skin is affected later in life, especially
after the menopause. Female skin then thins more dramatically and the effects are more pronounced than in
male skin.

Oiliness
Male skin has larger pores, is oilier and is more prone to impurities and acne.
Men have more active sebaceous glands, and therefore more pores, than women. Both their sebaceous glands
and their pores are larger than those of women.
Sebum production is double that of women, so male skin is oilier and shinier than female skin. As a result its pH
is lower than that of female skin and is prone to impurities and acne.
Adult males are less prone to dry skin than adult females.

Ageing
Signs of ageing may appear later in men but, when wrinkles appear, they’re fully grooved.
Signs of ageing appear later in male skin, but changes occur more quickly once they start.
Men are most affected by sagging skin combined with puffy eyes and dark circles that make them look tired.
Men get wrinkles too, though they are often less of a concern than for women. Male wrinkles occur later than
female wrinkles but, when they do appear, they are fully grooved.

https://int.eucerin.com/about-skin/basic-skin-knowledge/male-and-female-skin#:~:text=In%20general%20male
%20skin%20is,has%20a%20tighter%2C%20firmer%20appearance.

One of the biggest areas where male skin could benefit is in shaving. Careful shaving is important, particularly
for those with sensitive skin or skin conditions. Here are some tips:
1. First, protect and lubricate the skin with quality shaving products to help the razor glide smoothly over
your skin to help avoid nicks and cuts.
2. Be sure to use products that are mild and soothing, with antibacterial properties to protect your skin
from irritations.
3. Always use a clean, sharp razor. This will not only give you the closest shave, but will help you avoid
razor burn and bumps.
4. And contrary to what many men have been taught, always shave in the direction hair grows, not against
it.
To keep skin looking its best for many years to come, men should also consider using moisturizers and
anti-aging products specifically tailored for men. These products should be light in texture because heavy,
greasy products can aggravate male skin that has been sensitized by shaving.

https://dermatologyassociatesga.com/difference-between-male-and-female-skin/

In short, gender differences in skin relate to the action of sex hormones testosterone and oestrogen which
become particularly active from the onset of puberty and onwards.

2. MEN’S FRAGRANCES
Fragrances for men are generally called ‘after-shaves’ in order to link them to a very masculine activity and so
be more acceptable to the male user. Essentially all fragrance products are fragrance compounds blended in
aqueous alcoholic mixtures which may also have a low level of an emollient ester.
 1. Eau de colognes (oh-de-co-lown) Eau is the French word for water and is often used to describe
lighter concentrations of perfume. An example of eau is when used with "de toilette" to describe
cologne.
- This tend to contain fragrance compounds at concentrations in the range 2-4%
- Eau de cologne (EDC) has a much lower fragrance concentration (about 2% to 4%) than the
EDT with a high alcohol content, and therefore is cheaper than those above. It generally lasts
for up to two hours. EDCs mostly come in bigger bottles as more of these fragrances should be
worn. Originally eau de cologne is referred to a traditional recipe that used herb and citrus
notes with little anchoring with base notes.
2. Eau de toilettes
- Tend to have higher fragrance compound concentrations, possibly up to 10%.
- Eau de toilette (EDT) has a fragrance concentration of between 5% to 15%. It is cheaper than
the EDP and is one of the most popular types of fragrance available. It will normally last two to
three hours and is considered by some as daywear (while EDP is considered nightwear).
The term eau de toilette came from the French term “faire sa toilette” which means getting
ready. If you wear this on a daily basis, I would suggest that you have a small container where
you can bring it with you most of the time.
https://medium.com/@charlesmanimbo/the-difference-between-perfume-cologne-eau-de-toilette-and-more-34a
c21281226
https://www.fragrancex.com/blog/fragrance-notes/

Masculine fragrances can largely be classified into the three major categories of fougere (fu-geeh), oriental
and chypre (chai-pri)
1. Fougere: type of fragrance that have warm powdery character which can be modified to provide either
specific fresh or woody or ambery twist to particular fragrances in this category.
● Fougère: Meaning fern in French, built on a base of lavedner, coumarin, and oakmoss. Many
men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp
herbaceous and woody scent. Pronounced: foozh-air
● Fresh – Fresh notes such as white flowers or citrus notes are added to an aromatic bouquet
characterized by an underlying woody note.
● Ambery: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with
flowers and woods.
● Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar.
2. Oriental: type of fragrance that then to have a ‘heavy’ character either skewed to amber or, more
particularly, spice-like overtones.
● Oriental – Refreshed by aromatic or citrus facets, Oriental compositions draw their richness and
sophistication from precious substances such as amber, resin, tobacco, spices, exotic woods
and animal notes.
● Oriental – This family of scents are often categorised as warm and spicy, with earthy tones of
musk and warm amber, with sweeter notes of Vanilla and Ambergis that is typically composition
for masculine fragrance. Often Oriental scents will be a heavier more sensual fragrance best
suited to evening wear.
3. Chypre: a fragrance classification also common with fragrances for females, consists of woody,
leathery, fresh and citrussy notes.
 ● A Chypre fragrance is characterised by the contrast between fresh top notes, e.g. citrus,
lavender, and a rich woody, oakmoss base. It has a history spanning more than 4000 years,
with the first raw materials being used to make perfume emerging from a Mediterranean
perfume factory.

WHAT IS PERFUME NOTES? https://www.fragrancex.com/blog/fragrance-notes/

Perfume notes are ingredients that make up a fragrance. They are categorized as top notes (citrus, lavendar)
heart notes (cinnamon, jasmine) and base notes (vanilla, musk).

This carefully selected blend of ingredients forms the perfume accord, the basic character of a fragrance.
Perfume makers carefully select notes to make sure a fragrance both smells pleasant and evokes a certain
experience. Notes are classified in a fragrance pyramid.

Notes at the top of the pyramid have a higher volatility (they evaporate faster), while notes at the bottom are
longer-lasting.

I. TOP NOTES
- Top notes, sometimes referred to as headnotes, form the top layer of a fragrance. In other
words, top notes are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume. These play a role in
setting first impressions and shaping a fragrance’s story. Top notes usually evaporate quickly,
lingering around for only the first five to fifteen minutes. Their main purpose is to give off an
initial scent and then transition smoothly into the next part of the fragrance. As a result, top
notes generally consist of lighter and smaller molecules. Some common top notes include
citrus scents – like lemon, orange, and bergamot – as well as light floral notes like lavender and
rose. Basil and anise are also commonly used as top notes.
II. HEART NOTES
- Their function is to retain some of the top notes’ aroma while also introducing new scents to
deepen the experience. Sometimes referred to as middle notes, the heart notes also serve as a
buffer for the base notes, which may not smell as pleasant on their own. Because they make up
around 70 percent of the total scent, heart notes usually last longer than top notes. Heart notes
appear as the top notes start to fade and remain evident for the full life of the fragrance.
- Heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli and
ylang-ylang, as well as cinnamon, pepper, pine, lemongrass, black pepper and cardamom.
III. BASE NOTES
- Along with middle notes, base notes form the foundation of the fragrance. They help boost the lighter
notes while adding more depth and resonance.
- Since they form the perfume’s foundation, base notes are very rich, heavy and long-lasting. They kick in
after about 30 minutes and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance’s scent. Since
base notes sink into your skin, their scent lingers the longest and can last for six hours or more.
- Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss and woody notes like sandalwood
and cedarwood.

3. SHAVING PRODUCTS

[SLIDE 14]

[SLIDE 15 AND VIDEO]

(Shaving preps-to most of us, they are gels and foams. We dab them on before shaving and
occasionally wonder why. Skin is soft and malleable but those haris are not. Rub your hands
across stubble, and it feels sharp. That’s because dyr beard hair is as tough as copper wire
and unlike an electrician dealing with three or four strands at a time, a man can shave
through up to 25,000 face hairs each day. Cutting such tough, hard hairs is a challenge in
itself, achieving a close, smooth finish without harming the soft skin around them requires
more than a sharp blade. This is where the shavin gprep comes in, performing four key
tasks. Firstly, it hydrates, retaining moisture in the beard during the shave so less force is
needed to cut each hair. Secondly, it lubricates, creating a thin layer of protection between
the blades and the skin, ensuring less friction, and helping to minimize the risk of redness,
irritation, and nicks and cuts. Thirdly, it tracks, each stroke removes the foam, showing
where you have shaved so you don’t miss a spot. And finally, it leaves the skin feeling
soothed and refreshed. Some men prefer the traditional foam. It creates instant airy lather
that is really easily rinsed away. Others prefer the richer lather of a gel. Its advanced
lubricants provide enhanced glide and protection. Each to his own, every face is different.
Choose the level of lubricant and scent to suit your skin and shaving preference. But either
way, gel or foam, there’s no question that the use of shave prep results in a better
shave.)

[SLIDE 16]

Shave/Shaving - to remove hair from the face or body by using a razor or any other
kind of bladed implement, to slice it down—to the level of the skin or otherwise; Age-old
art viewed as a chore by most men but, at the same time, seen as an important part of
good grooming and as a social necessity. Some men prefer to grow beards, the number
rising or falling according to fashion, but for a small minority of men who suffer from certain
skin problems which are exacerbated (worsen) by shaving, the growth of a beard may be a
last resort.

Some men may suffer from razor bumps or pseudofolliculitis barbae, which results from
ingrowing beard hairs. These are curved hairs which grow out and re-enter the skin like a
small splinter, resulting in inflammation and in some instances, pustule (blister-like sores or
lesions) formation.

The most common problem associated with shaving is skin irritation. The degree of
irritation is dependent on factors such as blade sharpness, angle of incidence of blade,
pressure exerted on blade and beard wetting and lubrication.

[SLIDE 17]

The growth of male beard, axillary (armpit) and pubic hair is a secondary sex characteristic,
which begins at puberty influenced by increase in the male sex hormones. Hair growth of the
beard is similar to that of the eyebrow, the nose, the ear and the body except in the pubic
and axillae regions. The rate of growth of facial hair is up to 0.3-0.4 mm/day while pubic and
armpit hair grows for about 0.27mm a day. (So mas paspas ang facial hair kesa sa pubic and
armpit)

[SLIDE 18]

An effective shave is dependent on the following: (If purely razor and blade lang ang
gamit)

ü Preparation of the beard, i.e. hydration of the hair by the use of soap and warm
water. Ideally the preparation time is reported to be 4 minutes at 49°C.

ü Application of a good shaving aid.

ü Sharpness of blade.

ü Angle of incidence of blade to hair.

 ü Pressure exerted on the razor.

Wetting of the hair fibre allows it to swell and soften and to lower the force required to cut the
hair, reducing discomfort during shaving. So a good shaving preparation should provide
some lubrication and an individual should adjust the angle of incidence of the blade and
pressure on the blade, to minimize the risk of cutting the skin while shaving effectively.

[SLIDE 19]

[SLIDE 20]

1. Lathering Shaving Cream - Stearic acid, Coconut oil, Potassium hydroxide (50%),
Sodium hydroxide (100%), Glycerol, Water, and Perfume

Ø Silky shaving cream that creates a rich, foamy lather that softens the beard hair for
an easy shave.

Ø is based on a mixture of sodium and potassium soaps (Potassium soaps are more
readily soluble than sodium soaps that they help to generate foam more quickly)

Ø Lather shave creams have some free fatty acid although their pH is about 10.
Since pockets of unneutralized alkali remain even under well-controlled
manufacturing conditions, these free fatty acids are needed para ma-neutralize
yung alkalis na yun that will lead into complete saponification, to overcome the
harshness of soap on the skin, to act as plasticizer, and to contribute to the
characteristic pearlescence (shining) of these products.

Ø Formulations based on stearic acid alone do not give sufficient lather. It is

therefore usual to combine it with some coconut oil fatty acid. The ratio of stearic
acid to coconut oil may vary, but a satisfactory ratio would be 25% coconut oil to
75% stearic acid.

[SLIDE 22]

1. Lather Shaving Stick - This type of product contains a much higher level of soap
(about 80% compared to creams, 35%). Of this 20-25% are made from coconut or
palm kernel oils. Other ingredients are glycerol 5-10% and water 8-10%.

Ø The fatty acids ratio and the sodium/potassium ratio are similar to those of the
lather shaving cream. After saponification, the mass is dried, formed into chips,
and milled with other ingredients such as perfume, colour and opacifler as
required. The soap chips are moulded to the desired shape using a soap
plodder.

[SLIDE 23]

2. Aerosol Shaving Foam - Aerosol shaving foams have been on the market for more
than 30 years and they are probably the most popular shaving aid today.

Ø The aerosol can is filled with a soap solution, the concentrate, together with liquid
propellant added under pressure. The propellant, formerly a mixture of
chlorofluorocarbons, is now being replaced by 'ozone-friendly' hydrocarbons. On
shaking, some of the propellant becomes temporarily emulsified in the
concentrate. When the valve is actuated the propellant pushes the concentrate
up the dip tube and out of the valve. On reaching atmospheric pressure the
 emulsified propellant expands to form an instant foam. This foam, applied to the
pre-wetted beard, is sufficiently stable to last throughout the shaving process

[SLIDE 24]

[SLIDE 25]

1. Aerosol Barrier Pack - This pack is described where the liquid concentrate is
contained in an inner bag separated from the propellant. This prevents any unwanted
reaction between concentrate and propellant and allows foam to be dispensed
consistently throughout the life of the product without a drop in pressure as the
contents are used up.

[SLIDE 26]

2. Post-foaming Gel - These gels call for some form of compartmentalized packaging
such as the barrier pack that allows the propellant (driving gas), which expels the
contents, to be separated from the gel itself.

Ø The gel, a soap-based system, stabilized with a water-soluble polymer, blended

with lipophilic ingredients contains a hydrocarbon with a suitable boiling point so
that when the gel is manipulated between the hands, prior to application to the
face, the heat from the skin, aided by the mechanical action, vaporizes the
hydrocarbon component transforming the gel into a dense creamy foam.

[SLIDE 27]

[SLIDE 28]

3. Brushless Shave Cream - Brushless shave creams are oil-in-water emulsions and
similar to vanishing creams. The main difference is that the levels of oil and
emulsifying agents tend to be higher in shaving creams.

Ø Brushless shave creams have a pH of 7.5-8.5 and are thought to cause less
irritation than lather shave creams. However they have certain disadvantages.

Ø More product is required per shave; it is difficult to rinse them from the razor; the
beard-softening action is less effective than a foam due to slower uptake of water
from the emulsion by the hair; and they leave the skin greasy.

{SLIDE 29]

[SLIDE 30]

4. Shaving Oils - Shaving oils have recently come onto the shave preparation market, in
an attempt to introduce to the market something significantly different in form and
mode of application.

Ø They are blends of naturally occurring oils either alone or in combination with
emollient ingredients such as fatty esters, silicone or hydrocarbon oils to provide
a lubricating effect during shaving.

Ø A particular characteristic is the small amount of product that is required for an

application prior to shaving.
 Ø These are normally clear liquids so they do not provide a marker on the face like a
foam or lather to enable the user to distinguish the areas he has shaved from
those he has not.

[SLIDE 31]

5. Dry Shaving Preparations - These are pre-shaving preparations for use with electric
razors. It is generally known that electric shavers do not cut the beard as close to the
skin as razor blades in wet shaving.

Ø Many users prefer the convenience of the dry shave with an electric razor, even
though for most of them it does not give quite such a satisfactory shave as is
obtained in wet shaving. The proportion of razor blade users (wet shavers) to
electric razor users (dry shavers) is approximately 70:30.

Ø Whereas comfortable and efficient wet shaving requires the hair to be soft and
swollen to minimize cutting forces, shaving with an electric razor is believed to be
efficient if the hair is stiff and dry. This is achieved by removal of the film of
perspiration from the face by the use of an alcoholic pre-shave lotion. In addition
to being antiseptic, the alcohol also imparts a mild astringent effect which
tightens the skin.

Ø The following formulation [11] is an example of an emollient type of pre-shave

lotion

[SLIDE 32]

[SLIDE 33]

After-Shave Products

After-shave preparations are intended to alleviate the degreasing effect of soap and
surfactant used in shaving products resulting in the familiar after-shave skin trauma and also
to cool and refresh the skin as well as exert a mild astringent effect. They also protect it from
bacterial infection while it recovers from the slight injury.

The most popular types of product have been, and continue to be, clear lotions containing
about 40-50% of ethanol and the appropriate level of water. The ethanol/water ratio may be
adjusted depending on the type and level of perfume.

Other ingredients used are various combinations from the following examples of raw
materials:(NEXT) propylene glycol as humectant (reduces the loss of moisture); menthol as
cooling agent; witch hazel as astringent; quaternary ammonium compounds as biocides;
di-isopropyl adipate as emollient.

[SLIDE 34]

[SLIDE 35]

1. Afer-shave Gel - An after-shave product in the form of a gel can be made by using a
combination of a carboxyvinyl polymer (A) and a base (B). The stiffness of the gel can
be altered by varying the amount of the polymer and the triethanolamine addition.
Using this gel, it will now hydrate, calm, and cool (understandably) angry and irritated
post-shave skin.
[SLIDE 36]

2. Quick-breakling After-shave Foams - These are dispensed from the aerosol as a

foam which, on application to the skin, breaks easily. They have declined in popularity
since they were first introduced but (NEXT) the following is an example of a
formulation in which the triclosan acts as an antiseptic:

[SLIDE 37]

3. After-shave Balm - For shavers with sensitive skins, after-shave products with high
levels of alcohol can be more irritating than refreshing. In such cases an after-shave
cream or balm is useful. These are oil-in-water emulsions, similar to vanishing or
moisturizing creams. They may contain no alcohol, or only a low level and the
following is an example: (NEXT)

[SLIDE 38]

4. After-shave Powder - This form of after-shave product is not popular but could be
useful for those with certain skin conditions such as acne. It is based on talcum
powder to give a smooth, matte appearance, with additives such as menthol for a
cooling effect, colour and a bactericide, e.g. cetrimide.
(EARLL)
SLIDE 32: Hair-Care Preparations

SLIDE 33:
1. Hair Lotion and Tonics
→ hair lotion is classified as Hair Tonics
● With a light fixative effect; use as daily application to keep the hair tidy.
● Help to grow hair on balding heads.
→ The normal loss of hair was a useful factor in persuading men to use a hair lotion

● When used regularly, it would help to keep the scalp in good condition
→ and the friction produced by the fingers on the scalp, or by the use of a fairly stiff brush, would
stimulate the blood flow to the hair follicle and thus contribute to their better condition.

Factors responsible for male-pattern baldness:

● Genetics - male hormones
→ example: DHT - role is in the development of male sex traits; if sobra/high levels it can cause
baldness
● Stress or anxiety
● Follicular damage
→ if hair follicles are damaged, they may be invaded by virus, bacteria and fungi than can lead to
focculitis which affects the hair follicle

SLIDE 34:
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN HAIR LOTIONS AND TONICS
- Materials which act as rubefacients – stimulate growth in hair follicles
Cantharides, Capsicum extract, Pilocarpine, Quinine, Ammonia, Resorcinol, Salicylic acid, Turpentine
oil and Rosemary oil.
- Sulfur and some of its derivatives. - anti dandruff, hair growth, and maintaining scalp
Colloidal sulfur
- Nutrients which are claimed to help cell synthesis.
Vitamins A and E, Vitamin B group, Vitamin F; Pantothenic acid and panthenol

SLIDE 35:

→ Several raw materials have been promoted over the years for the formulation of hair tonics and lotions.
Some of these were intended to enhance only the appearance of combed hair, while others contained active
ingredients and were intended to maintain the scalp in good condition, since a healthy scalp is one essential
requirement for shining healthy hair.

FORMULA X (10) for HAIR TONIC contains:

→ Perfume; Fragrance
→ 95% ethanol: is used to achieve their fast drying properties on hair.
→ Glycerin: is effective as a moisturizer because it acts as a humectant, pulling moisture from the environment
and deep within the skin to the surface, which needs the moisture most, it can help you eradicate itchy scalp,
especially during colder months. Regular application can help eliminate dandruff with a soothing cooling effect
on the scalp and it also can contribute to new hair growth.
→ Water (deionized); Aqua: it is important to use deionized water, to maximize the shelf life of your products
and also minimize contaminants in the water which will affect the quality of your finished product.

FORMULA XI and XII (11&12) for Men’s HAIR TONIC contains:

→ Ammonia solution and Oil of Rosemary: act as rubefacients which stimulate growth in hair follicles
→ Quinine Hydrochloride: also act as rubefacient to decrease and stop hair loss
→ Ethanol
→ Glycerin
→ Water

FORMULA XIII (13) has the same formula with Formula 10 for Hair Tonic but with the used of Pantothenic
Acid Tonic
→ Calcium pantothenate: is a salt of vitamin B5 and works inside the scalp and increases hair growth. Thus, it
provides essential nutrients and reduces hair fall, strengthens hair from roots, nourishes follicles from within,
stimulates the growth of existing and new hair.

SLIDE 36:
2. Anti-Dandruff Lotions
● these lotions can be classified as hair tonics
● It controls dandruff and reduces itching and scaling of the scalp – anti-dandruff lotions are important
because they contribute to a healthier condition of the scalp; if healthy ang scalp it reduces the
tendency for hair loss.
● they may be oily or non-oily depending on the particular form of dandruff which is being treated.

Alcohol-based product - for greasy conditions > + oily material to reduce degreasing action ^
→ If a purely alcohol-based product is to be used to correct a greasy condition, it is advisable to
include some oily material to reduce the degreasing action of alcohol to an acceptable level.

FORMULA XIV (14) FOR ANTI-DANDRUFF LOTION contains:

→ Salicylic Acid and Resorcinol: helps get rid your scalp off dry skin and dandruff, which means reduced
itchiness and irritation.
→ Oleyl alcohol: The level of oleyl alcohol may be varied according to the degree of oiliness required.
→ Alcohol
→ Perfume

SLIDE 37:

Several antimicrobial agents have been reported as active materials for medicated shampoos and some of these
are used in the following lotions for the primary purpose of inhibiting the development of microorganisms.

● Sulfur preparations have a fungicidal action when applied externally

● Methyl/7-hydroxybenzoate (0.15%) and perfume (0.2%)
● Quaternary ammonium polythionates are also suggested for treatment to combine the properties of
sulfur and those of quaternary ammonium compounds

FORMULA XV (15) FOR ANTI-DANDRUFF LOTION is the same with Formula XIV except that it contains:
→ Precipitated Sulfur: and it is combined with salicylic acid. They are known as keratolytic agents. It is used to
treat dandruff and other scalp disorders

SLIDE 38:
2 TYPES OF ANTI-DANDRUFF LOTIONS
A. LOTIONS
→ Lotions can also be prepared with quaternary ammonium compounds, pro- vided the concentration
of the solution is controlled to prevent overdose, since this is likely to cause irritation.
- gives 0.01-0.02 g of active material per application
→ The lotion should be formulated to give 0.01-0.02 g of active material per application.
- used with fatty acids
→ they have been suggested for use with fatty acids to prepare conditioning creams for men.
→ absorbs into your hair quickly, providing moisture to tame frizz and heal breakage.

- The recommended dosage in tonics is 0.1% for piroctone olamine and 0.3% for climbazole

The following is an example of this type of Lotion:

Formula XVI for Hair conditioning Cream for Men contains:

→ Isopropyl Palmitate - acts as lubricant on the surface of skin and hair, which leads to a soft and smooth
appearance
→ Laurie Acid - help the hair from breakage
→ Stearyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride: or Stearalkonium chloride - increases lustre of the hair
→ Preservative
→ Water

Formula XVI for Anti-Dandruff hair tonic with climbazole contains:

→ SD-Alcohol 39-C - a mixture of ethanol with denaturing agent
→ Fragrance
→ Di-isopropyl Adipate - lubricant, for smooth appearance of the hair
→ PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Propylene Glycol, Climbazole - use as solubilizer, emulsifier,
surfactant and emollient
→ Water; Aqua
→ Panthenol - emollient, smoothing cracks in rough hair
→ Cetrimonium Chloride - anti-static, anti frizz and detangling properties
→ Allantoin - treat and prevent a dry and itchy scalp
→ Glycerin
→ Propylene Glycol (and) Ethoxydiglycol (and) Birch (Betulae Alba) Leaf Extract

SLIDE 39:
B. SHAMPOOS
- Prevention of dandruff
- Based on quaternary ammonium compounds – quaternary ammonium compounds are reported to
have been used successfully for the treatment of seborrhoea.
 - Most anti-dandruff shampoo contains: Zinc pyridine thiol-iV-oxide (ZnPTO) as the active agent
along with conventional shampoo detergents
- Piroctone olamine has been employed as an antidandruff agent (the recommended dosage is
0.75%) – this material allows the formulation of clear products which are aesthetically elegant as
well as being efficacious.
- Climbazole that also allows formulation of clear shampoo (recommended dosage 0.7-1.0%) The
conditioning shampoo that cleans the hair while also conditioning it to a degree that is sufficient for
men's hair

Formula XVII (17) for Conditioning Shampoo for men

→ Trimethylsilylamidimethicone - it is a silicone, it increases softness/smoothness
→ Lauramide DEA (and) Linoleamide DEA and Sodium Laureth Sulfate - increase foaming
→ Water
→ PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate - thickener and stabilizer; dissolve oil on grease
→ Water
→ Citric acid - keeps the hair ph level healthy

SLIDE 40:
3. Hairdressings
→ Hairdressings are preparations intended to give good control, good set and luster to the hair without
making it greasy
→ Oil aids in combing and provides gloss, but it does not provide a proper set without the addition of water

TYPES OF HAIRDRESSING
a) Pomades and Solid Brilliantines
b) Liquid Brilliantines
c) Non-greasy Hair Creams
d) Emulsion-type Hairdressing
e) Aerosol Hair gloss

SLIDE 41:

a. Pomades and Solid Brilliantines

- made of mineral or vegetable oil, thickened with one or more waxes, and hence semi-solid
- petroleum jelly-based products tend to drag and have a drab(dull) appearance

POMADES
→ a styling product with a waxy, slippery feel. It offers a flexible level of hold for a more natural texture
that’ll blow in the wind.

Solid Brilliantine
→ intended to soften men's hair, including beards and mustaches, and give it a glossy, well-groomed
appearance
FORMULAE 29,20,21,22 OF BRILLIANTES AND POMADES contains:
→ Petroleum jelly; (Petrolatum), Beeswax (Cera Alba), Microcrystalline wax Paraffin wax, Lanolin, Polysorbate
85 Mineral oil, Colour, perfume

Notes: Difference between Pomades and Solid Brilliantes:

→ same function (to style hair and give natural shine) but solid brilliantine typically provides way more
shine than most pomades, but holds way lighter than most pomades.

SLIDE 42:

b. Liquid Brilliantines
- intended to leave a thin coating of oil on the hair without the greasy look of a pomade
- keeps your hair in place and is perfect for damaged hair and split ends.

FORMULAE 24,25,26 OF LIQUID BRILLIANTINES contains:

→ Mineral oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Ethanol denat., Perfume, Fragrance

c. Non-greasy Hair Creams

- Improve the condition and/or to style the hair
→ non-greasy hair creams were made with gum tragacanth since it has a good fixative properties but
tended to give a dull effect on the hair, and the dried film of gum flaked off when the hair was combed or
parang may dandruff ang hair

SLIDE 43:

d. Emulsion-type Hairdressing
- These emulsions might be oil-in-water or water-in-oil.
- gum tragacanth was used to make the first non-greasy hair products

Oil-in-water - the hair is duller with the outer film of water

● Gel
→ hairstyling product that is used to harden hair into a particular hairstyle or every strand stays
in place
 - microgel, which is an oil-in-water emulsion that is clear due to the microscopic size of the oil
droplets.
- aqueous polyethylene glycol gelled with a cellulose thickener

Water-in-oil - gives an immediate gloss effect with ease of combing

● Lotions
- certain lotions based on resin solutions in a volatile solvent such as ethanol were also
offered
- presence of a plasticizer to give both gloss and fixative properties

SLIDE 44:
FORMULAE 29 of O/W Hairdressings contains:
→ Beeswax, Stearic Acid, Mineral Oil, Petroleum jelly, Cholesterol, Lime water (freshly made) Perfume

FORMULAE 30,31,32 of W/O Hairdressings contains:

→ Mineral (Paraffinum Liquidum), Oil Beeswax (Cera Alba), Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Monostearate,
Triethanolamine (TEA), Water; Aqua, Preservative(s), Propylene Glycol, Preservative(s), Perfume

SLIDE 45:
e. Aerosol Hair Gloss
- A modern, simple formulation which imparts sheen without a heavy oily feel, adds shine to hair, reduces
split ends, frizzy hair, and overall dryness.

FORMULAE 33 of Aerosol contains:

→ Phenyl Trimethicone, Glycereth-26, Mink oil (light fraction), Isobutane and propane

Notes: Hairdressings Differences:

→ have same function to style the hair but differs on the texture, finish and the level of hold you want
→ Pomades, Solid Brilliantines, Lotions: gives the hair shine and a natural soft finished look; ideal for
straight and curly hair
→ Liquid Brilliantine and Non-greasy Hair Creams: give non-greasy or dull looks on the hair; good for
damaged hair or split ends; for straight and curly hair
→ Gels: looks harder, plastic-looking coating behind, so it’s definitely not a natural finish; ideal for curly hair

SLIDE 46:

4. Hair Color Restorers

→ Products that are based on sulfur and a lead salt and are used to restore the original color to gray hair
→ The product is applied daily to build up the color until the required shade is obtained
→ it gradually darkens gray hair over a period of 3-4 weeks allowing the user to restore hair color; Suitable
for normal hair or long hair

5. Modern Hair-Styling Products

→ Setting/styling or setting/conditioning gels can be applied to give a wet look or combed through the hair to
give a dry appearance
→ Mousses can be formulated to give light hold and styling or firm hold and styling, etc

Gels vs. Mousse

→ Gels:
- It works best on thicker, coarser hair and can be used on wet or dry hair;
- It prevents frizzy curls and seals in flyaways, making it great for 'fluffy curls'. It's also strong enough to
control thick, dense hair.
→ Mousse:
- gives volume, ideal for natural hair look;
- can also be used in curly hair but it may lack hold and definition, so you'll need to use a cream or gel to
'lock in' your curls.