PRODUCTION & QUALITY

Research Log
WEEK 1
We learn about the inspection of the fabric when
the fabric reaches the manufacturing unit the first
step is to check the fabric only after the fabric is
checked and approved the payment is done to the
supplier of the fabric.
Quality parameters of the fabric are:-
Shade band - The color that is ordered for example 1
lakh meter is of the same color or not.
GSM- Gram/per square meter, how thick is the fabric

DEFECTIVE SELVEDGE
Bad selvage is due to faulty weaving.

BROKEN PICKS OR WEFT

A filling yarn that is broken at the weaving time.
 Wrong end color:
It happened because of the wrong drawing of
colored yarn.

Hole:
A fabric fault which can be in one or several yarns
which leads to create an opening in between or
anywhere.
OIL SPOT OR STAIN
Discoloration on a fabric which cannot be removed by
laundering or dry cleaning. It can occur during spinning,
weaving, or  at the time of finishing.

TAILS OUT
It occurs when the cutter doesn’t work properly.
CSV( Center to Selvedge Variation)
Shade different in the center from the shade at the
edges (selvedge)

RSV (Running Shade Variation)

Shade variation along the length of the fabric.
These are the faults that occur in woven fabric, the dye is also checked
For example Azoic dye which is banned because its residual is cancerous.
Four-Point System is used to allot points according to the faults in the fabric. There are
others system too but this is widely accepted.

In the four-point system, a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any
single defect.
Points are alloted accordingly
Upto 3 inches defect - 1 point
3 inch to 6 inch - 2 points
6 inch to 9 inch - 3 points
9 inches and over - 4 points
(Garments Merchandising, 2016), (Source:-garmentsmerchandising.com)

WEEK 2
ACTIVITY
Deconstruction of the fabric
We deconstructed the fabric and learned about how many pieces is there ina single
fabric. The shirt can have 17-18 pieces
After the piece is cut, the piece in which embroidery is needed to be done or any patch
or print is needed to be done is transferred to that department before stitching
Making a single product is a very lengthy process and time-consuming because the
quality and many other parameters are needed to be considered and checked while
making the garments to match the demand for nd of the buyer.
After the deconstruction we learned about various new terms that we look at but never
knew the use of it
Fusing - white in color, which are many in number, can be differentiate because of
quality.
It is attached to another fabric by applying heat and pressure
It is done to provide support and to add a a particular shape to the garments
Back Yok- It is over the shoulders on the back of the shirt. It is done to provide support
to the curved shape that our shoulder has.
Front piece is less than the back peice, even the sleeve in front is shorter than the back
sleeve.
Placket( button area) - It is used to allow the garment to be put on and removed easily
and then have a perfect fit, but sometimes it is used as a decoration too.
Seam Allowance- It is extra inches of fabric which is sewed to have a neat look , we
cannot see directly on the raw edge of thr fabric because it would slip off.

We learn about different terms in a shirt. (Source:-www.fashion-flats.com)

PATTERN MAKING
Pattern making is the process of creating pattern for a garment in a thin paper, so that
when the garment is made there will be minimum number or mistakes.
It can be made manually and with the help of computer. CAD is one of the software that
is used to make the pattern and being a software there are many patterns that are
available and whenever some new pattern is made, it can be saved for future uses.
Pattern making is very useful step because if the samples is made in the fabric directly,
it will cost very much before coming to the perfect fit of the garment. All the trials and
mistake is made is done on that thin paper and when the perfect pattern is achieved
then the real productions starts.
TECH PACK
After the perfect size and measurement is achieved a sheet is made with all the
information that will be needed while making the product.
It contains waist, length, neck drop, hem width, neck, fabric to be used and many more
details.

SEAMS
1.LOCK STITCH

It is most common type of stitch

Two threads are used in lock stitch generally, one in needle from above the machine
and one in bobbins which is situated beneath the machine. It is done in woven fabric.
This stitch is used for stability and this is very easily accessible stitch.
2.CHAIN STITCH
It is done in knits and have a slight stretch in this type of stitch. It looks like a chain
pattern
3.FLAT LOCKS
It is done on the knits. It can be done using two or three threads. It is done on hem of
the garments. It is flat seam.
4.OVER LOCKS
It is done on the raw edges of the fabric.
There are different types of overlook stitches
3 thread overlook and 5 thread overlook is done in woven fabric.
6 threads overlook is done in unit fabric.
(Saha, 2020), (www.fibre2fashion.com, n.d.)
SAROJNI NAGAR VISIT
When we went o Sarojini nagar, the objective to check the quality of the garments, the
above garments are the the originals of the particular brands, the reason of these
garments being in Sarojini is because of some defects that is not visible to customers
but brands can't risk it or sometimes when many pieces are made some extra number
of garments are made, as a backup to complete their target in time and deliver the
decided pieces in time.

Other concept that I learned was that a huge bag of clothes is received to these
marketers in a particular price and they don/t even know what type of garment they
going to get but they get the clothes in kilos, they are ready to take that risks.
We talked to one shopkeeper who was selling kurta set in Rs300, he said they get their
garments from Jaipur or Panipat, whichever is true but I just wanted to visit these
factories or area to gain understanding of their working and also to know the profit
margins of the market like Sarojini.

DEPARTMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURING UNIT

Purchase/ Stores - Where raw materials are bought and stored

Pattern Making - Where the pattern is made manually or in computer and then it is
printed and provided to cutting department
Cutting department - With the help of the pattern , the fabric is layered and fabric is
cut.
Sewing- Where all the fabric is sewed together to make a complete garment.
Finishing - where finished product is received, checked and even tagging is also done
here.
Packaging- The garment is packaged and bar code is also attached at the tag and at the
package.
Dispatch- From here the cartons is dispatched to the buyer.
FACTORY VISIT
FBM department visited a factory of garments where they were making garments for
mandala and forever 21.
At first the fabric roll are received and stored in an area and at one side all the details
of the fabric and colour is given.

Then the fabric is checked, all the parameters to be checked is discussed at the
beginning of this research log. GSM that is the weight is also checked and matches with
the buyer or approved GSM
This is the GSM machine to measure the fabric
Then there was the racks in which they stored the fabrics and it was separated in three
parts

First one was for the fabrics that are checked and approved, then for unchecked and
then for the fabrics which were rejected and will be sent back.
Then they had the area in which all the accessories were checked
This man is checking the elastane, and they are opening all the roles because they will
put all these elastane in the water because elastance also shrinks after getting into
water so it is necessary to check it.
Then we went to CAD ROOM in which the pattern making is done, they had the
computer in which they used the software and also had the printing machine
They also had many patterns from their previous orders.
Then we went to the area where the fabric rolls were layered and was being cut.

This is the machine which was being used to cut number of fabrics at a time.
At the side, there was fusing machine.
The fusing roll was coming from beneath and one person was attaching the fabric upon
the fusing and then the cloth was going inside the machine and the fabric and fusing
was attached with heat and pressure.

This is the area where different fusing was attached to different clothes or according to
the requirements.
After all the pieces was cut, they are numbered and then bundled.

This is the area where large number of people were stitching the garment, the wash
care and the label is also stitched at this time and at the same time the finished
product was being checked and then pressed
The finished garments after the checking and pressing is packed and also the tag is
attached to it.

After that the bar code is attached to the tag and the packet of the garments,
The price will be attached or not depends upon the buyer.
Then the bar code is checked for the last time and the garments are packed.
WASH CARE
Wash care symbols are signs that appear on the label of our clothes. These signs give
us information on how the garment should be washed, dried and ironed. Understanding
the wash care symbols is very important and it helps in making our clothes last longer.
Although majority of us does not care to look at the wash care, but without even
looking at it our mothers exactly know about what to do.

1.WASHING SYMBOL

.1) Bucket Filled with Water

This means clothes can be washed in

normal machine or can be hand washed where at any temperature with detergent or

soap.

2) Bucket with 1 Dot

Clothes can be washed at a particular temperature that will be specified.

3) Hand Symbol Inside a Bucket

This means the clothes should only be hand washed.
1) Iron Symbol
This means clothes can be regularly ironed at any temperature.

2) Iron Symbol with 1 Dot

This means clothes can only iron at low settings (110°C / 200F).

3) Iron Symbol with 2 Dots

This means clothes can ironed at medium temperature (150°C / 300F).

4) Iron Symbol with 3 Dots

This means you can iron, dry or steam at high temperature (200°C / 350F).

5) A Crossed-Out Iron

This means clothes should not be ironed.
1) Square with Circle
It means that tumble drying is allowed.

2) A Tumble Dryer with Dots

This means that a machine dryer must be used at a low heat setting.

3) A Black Circle in the Middle

This means that regular drying can only be performed on the ‘No Heat’

4) A Crossed-Out Tumble Dryer

This means the clothing can’t be tumble dried.

1) A Triangle

This means that the garment can be bleached.

2) A Triangle with Two Lines Inside

This means that a non-chlorine bleach should be used.

3)) A Crossed-out Triangle

This means that you cannot bleach the garment.

1) Circle Symbol
This means that the clothes can be dry cleaned.

2) A Crossed-Out Circle

This means that it should not be dry cleaned.

(Rocky, 2023), (Source:-www.getsetclean.in), (Get Set Clean, n.d.)

BY: DAKSHITA PRADEEP SINGH