JIB-ARM REMOTE HEAD PLANS

by Cody Deegan

These plans are for the remote head I built for my Canon XL1 miniDV camera. I dont recommend using cameras heavier than 9 pounds with this particular design without strength modifications. These plans are in no way complete, for example: I dont show in detail how to mount the electronics or how to build a mount for a camera - I leave those details up to the builder (these plans are free and I got tired, what do you expect?). Be sure to use the Surface Frequency of 75 mhz on your transmitters, receivers, and crystals. Use of Aircraft Frequency (72 mhz) is an FCC violation and also poses a serious safety hazard if used within a few miles of others who are using the frequency for aircraft. Anyway, I hope the information contained within is helpful. If you have better construction methods than what is explained herein, then by all means, use them. Get some ideas from these plans and build a better one. If youre new to building things, just follow right along and I think youll be happy with the result (I really like mine). Go get all your cinematic visions realized and make sure to wear those safety goggles. Good luck building.

Here is a list of items that I used to build the remote head on my jib-arm:

ELECTRONICS
(2) (2) (1) (1) (1) (2) (1) HS-605BB Servo Motors (Hitec) Standard Servo 4:1 Power Gearboxes (Hitec) Laser 4 transmitter (channel 40) 75 mhz Hitec Supreme Receiver 75 mhz FM Dual Conversion Rx Crystal (channel 40) 75 mhz 192T 1/4 bore 48 pitch aluminum gears 6-volt DC power source

small lengths of 14-16 guage wire SUPPLIERS:

http://www.servocity.com http://www.wmberg.com/

P48A63-192 Precision Spur Gears

HARDWARE
(1) (2) (3) (3) (7) (12) (2) (14) (5) (2) (15) (4) (4) (4) 1/8 x 1-1/4 x 27 aluminum square tube 1/8 x 3-1/2 x 5-1/2 flat aluminum pieces 1-1/4 x 8 steel corner brackets 5/16-18 x 3 full-thread grade 8 hex bolts 5/16-18 x 2 hex bolts 5/16 hex nuts 5/16 stop nuts 5/16 washers 5/16 fender washers 1-1/4 x 8 steel corner brackets skateboard bearings (ABEC 3) 10-24 x 1-3/4 machine screws 10-24 hex nuts 10-24 washers

Cut the aluminum square tube into a 14 piece and a 12 1/2 piece. Measure up from the bottom as shown on both pieces and mark a hole placement with a centerpunch. Drill the holes all the way through with a 27/64 drill bit, then use a 55/64 bit individually through each hole to widen them slightly.

17/64 Drill Bit

Set the 14 square tube flush against a steel corner bracket. The brackets I found had holes predrilled, so I used a pencil to trace these holes onto the square tube. Centerpunch the 3 placements on the square tube and drill all the way through with a 5/16 drill bit. Next, measure in 2 1/2 from the end of the steel bracket and mark a hole placement in the center. Drill a 17/64 hole, then thread the hole with a 5/16-18 tap.

pan bracket

14 square tube

Cut a corner off each flat aluminum piece using the measurements shown. Mark and centerpunch three hole placements on one piece, clamp it on top of the other to the drill press table, then drill through all three placements with a 5/16 drill bit.

Lay a steel corner bracket on the underside of the 12 1/2 aluminum square tube. Trace two of the predrilled holes onto the tube with a pencil. Center two hole placements on the side of the square tube at the respective distances from the edge. These holes will line up with two holes on the flat aluminum pieces. Centerpunch all four placements and drill completely through with a 5/16 drill bit.

12-1/2 square tube

cable bracket

If the hubs on the 192 tooth spur gears have set screws, remove the screws. The bore on the gears should be 1/4. Use a 5/16-18 tap to thread the bore holes in both gears. Be careful not to thread the hole at a slant.

Insert a 5/16-18 x 3 full-thread bolt down through each gear (if you cant find full-thread grade 8 bolts, you can use a 5/16-18 die and stock to cut threads all the way down a half-thread bolt using a vice).

Die Stock

Set the gear bolts through a fender washer and a bearing, then thread two hex nuts onto the bolt until they are pressed against the bearing, but not tightly. Then insert the assemblies through the 55/64 holes in the square tubes. A rubber mallet might be useful at this point to get the bearing set snug. Slide another bearing over the bolt end and set it into the other side of the tube, again using the mallet. Time to assemble the power gear boxes for the servo motors. I ordered mine from ServoCity, and they came with detailed instructions on how to put them together. Before assembly, the potentiometer needs to be dismantled. There is a small piece of metal inside the pot that should be filed off. The metal extension acts as a stop and does not allow the motor to run continuously.
Once removed, there might be a hole left in the metal. Maybe try filling this in with some solder and filing smooth. This way the circuit is never broken as the shaft turns. I have not tested to see if this procedure works, my original design was done much differently, but due to FCC violations, I had to change it.

Set the gear boxes in place on the square tubes so that the smaller gears mesh with the larger gears. Use a pencil to mark hole placements on the tubes using the gear box mounts as a guide. Centerpunch and drill the holes all the way through the square tube with a 3/16 drill bit. The guide holes on the gear box may also need to be widened to 3/16. Mount the gear boxes to the tubes with 10-24 x 1 3/4 machine screws, a washer and a nut on each screw.
Heres a wiring diagram of the electronics. The receiver has alot of slots to plug the speed controls into. Try out each one and test the response with the transmitter controls until you find a setup you like.
There are a wide variety of 6-volt battery setups to choose from - NiCad, NiMH, rechargeable sealed leadacid, as well as lantern. I suggest perusing the internet for more information on deciding what battery will best suit your needs.

This isnt a very precise method, but I believe it will help alleviate some stress on the servos: Set your camera on its side and roughly estimate where the balance point is. Measure from this point to the bottom of the camera and name the value x.

Take that value and add 3/16 to it. Measure from the inside angle of a steel corner bracket with the new value and mark a hole placement. If the placement happens to fall on one of the predrilled holes, then move it somewhere nearby (I said this wasnt very precise, didnt I?). Centerpunch and drill with a 17/64 bit, then thread the hole with a 5/16-18 tap.

tilt bracket

cable bracket

(5) 5/16-18 x 2 hex bolts (10) 5/16 washers (8) 5/16 hex nuts (5) 5/16 fender washers (2) 5/16 stop nuts

pan bracket

Time to assemble the head. Dont over-tighten the nuts that rest against the bearings - their purpose is to keep the bearings from falling out.

tilt bracket

Attach the aluminum flats to the upper square tube with two 5/16-18 x 2 hex bolts, four 5/16 washers, and two 5/16 hex nuts.

The assembled remote head.

To give an idea on mounting the electronics, I wrapped a thin piece of aluminum around the battery and bolted it to the upper tube, and I attached a small corner bracket to the tube for the receiver to set in.