INSTRUCTION BOOKCONTENTS Names of parts... Twenty-four drop-in cam How to use the sewing guide. Preparation for sewing Right needle and thread for right cloth To see if the needle is bent. To insert needle . To wind the bobbin To insert the bobbin into the bobbin case ..... To insert bobbin case into shuttle race... To thread needle........... To draw up the lower thread, To start to sew. To regulate stitch length and to sew in reverse To use drop feed device To adjust pressure of presser bar to cloth To regulate thread tensions To sew straight seam To finish seam Zigzag sewing ... To prepare for zigzag | sewiny To set zigzag width regulator lever and zigzag width limiter knobs To set stitch length for zigzag sewing Manual zigzag sewing Some examples and their settings of manual, zigzag patterns . Sewing patterns with cams ......... Patterns sewn with cam No. 1 through No. 11 Patterns sewn with cam No. 12 through No. 24 Twin needle sewing. To thread for twin needle .. Pattern sewing with twin needle. To turn a cornerPractical applications .. To use the basic cam. To sew buttonhole . Button sewing Applique... Braid sewing ............. To use hemmer foot i Sewing on zipper. To use quilting attachment . To use cloth guide , Darning and embroidery To sew blind stitch hem To sew stretch matcrials Triple stitched seam .. Fagoting. Smocking To keep your machine in best ‘condition : To oil the machine : How to remove and reset the top cover . To clean the feed dog ... To remove and clean shuttle hook. Do-it-yourself adjustment .., To adjust bobbin winding device Tilting spool for prevention of thread tangling | To adjust amount of automatic reverse feed . To adjust the buttonhole stitches . Settings ee Unsatisfactory conditions : causes and remediesNAMES OF PARTS 1. Face plate Patchomatic darner Thread take-up lever Bobbin winder thread guide Top cover thread guide Cam compartment lid Top cover Spool pins 9. Top cover thread guides 10. Bobbin winder latch Il. Bobbin winder spindle 12, Needle position selector knob 13. Buttonhole knob 14. Balance wheel 15, Stitch length regulator knob 16. Reverse button 17. 18. 19. 20. 24 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29, 30. 31. 32. Stitch length adjusting screw Drop feed knob Zigeag width limiters Zigzag width regulator lever - Shuttle cover plate Needle clamp screw Presser foot Feed dog Needle plate Thumb screw Needle Thread cutter Needle bar Check spring ‘Thread tension regulator knob Arm thread guideTWENTY-FOUR DROP-IN CAMS The sewing guide will tell you how to set the machine at a glance. Sce the desired pattern in the square window and set the controls according to the numbers shown in the round windows. 5PREPARATION FOR SEWING werrr =. a You will get the best possible results by using a correct com- bination of sewing materials.RIGHT NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR RIGHT CLOTH Size of eae Cloth Size of Threads No. 9 | Thin calico, silk, serge | No. 80-100 cotton thread - 9) and muslin. or fine silk thread. Thin calico, cotton cloth, 2, 9 oth; | No, 60-100 cotton thread 1 No 11) crepe de Chine, hosiery | oy ordinary silk thread. Ordinary cotton cloth, | ,: Now 14 | thickteailk ‘thintwoollen | nan wooo ounimcas goods, towels and shirting. | 7 mary ec No. 16 | Thick cotton cloth, serge | No. 30-60 cotton thread - 16) and thin woollen goods. | or ordinary silk thread. Ordinary woollen goods, No. 18 | fousers, over-coats, thick | No. 30-60 cotton thread 18) calico “and — children’s | or ordinary silk thread. clothes. Twin | Calico, silk, serge, cotton needle | cloth and” thin ‘woolen | No. 40-80 cotton thread No. 14 | goods. or ordinary silk thread. NOTE: Use a good quality mercerized cotton thread, if available, to avoid TO SEE BENT shrinking when laundered. IF THE NEEDLE IS Place the needle on a glass or a plate. If the needle is straight, the clearance between the needle and the glass or the plate should be equal. * If the needle is bent, it may re- sult in needle breaking, upper thread breaking and skipped stitches.TO INSERT NEEDLE 1. Raise the needle bar to the highest point by turning the balance wheel towards you. 2, Loosen the needle clamp screw. 3. With the grooved side of the needle to the front and the flat side to the back, insert the needle upwards into the slot until it hits the pin visible in the slot, 4. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly. Insert the needle correctly as mentioned above. Turn the balance wheel towards you before you start sewing to see if the tip of the needle enters the center of the needle hole. Be sure to raise the needle bar to the highest point when you remove the fabric and pull both upper and lower threads away from you from under the presser foot. Avoid pulling the fabrie while the machine is running. It isalso important that the needle size and the thread size match the kind of fabric sewn, otherwise it may result in: * Bent needle * Upper thread breaks * Skipped stitches Thread loops * Raise needle bar- Loosen needle clamp. Cs mes side to the back| ‘Tighten needle cfamp' screw Insert needle until it hits pin * If the correctly, it may result in: * Upper thread breaks * Bent needle * Shipped stitches % Material puckers needle is not inserted * Damaging shuttle hookTO WIND THE BOBBIN 1. Loosen the stop motion screw with your right hand while holding the balance wheel with your left in order to disengage the stitching mechanism. (Fig. 1) stop motion screw (large re} Place a spool of thread on the spool pin on the back of the arm. Pass the thread through | ~~. the top cover thread guide (A), i through bobbin winder thread a guide (B) (Fig. 2) 3. Place a bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle (C), revolve the bobbin until the notch in the bobbin meets the spring on spindle, and bobble eee push the bobbin down. This hoids bobbin in place. (Fig. 2) Latch will be released ‘automatically Cut thread. (Fig. 3) (Fig. 4) (Fig. 5) 4. Pass the end 5. Holding the end 6. Runthe machine. of the thread of i cacee When the bobbin through one of Puen oie) balemce is wound full pra de pa wheel to wind i the thread several ee ten wee bobbin from I aH iets cade cae times. Then cut released automa- a the free end of tically. side. the thread.TO INSERT THE BOBBIN INTO THE BOBBIN CASE bobbin case (Fig. 3) 1. Place the bobbin into the bobbin case when the thread is wound. 2. Guide the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 2. 3. Pull it under the tension spring and then into the delivery eye. * If the bobbin case is threaded incorrectly, it may result’ in thread breaking and skippea stitches.TO INSERT BOBBIN CASE INTO SHUTTLE RACE Raise the needle bar to the highest point. Open the shuttle cover plate. Hold the bobbin case by the latch and place it on the center post with the bobbin case finger opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle, Release the latch and press the bobbin case into the shuttle until the latch catches on the center post with a click. Permit the thread to hang down freely a few inches. * Unless the bobbin case is correctly inserted in the shuttle race, the bobbin case will drop out’ and the needle may be damaged. * It is particularly important that finger of the bobbin case fits in the notch in the shuttle race. (Fig. 1) The bobbin case and the shuttle race should be always kept clean, otherwise it may result in breaking thread and the machine running heavily and noisy. ITO THREAD NEEDLE Raise the take-up lever (7) to its highest point. Place a spool of thread on either one of the two spool pins on the back of the machine arm. (Fig. 1) Pass the thread throug’ the top cover thread guides (1, 2 & 3), downwards between and around the tension discs (4) from right to left, up and into the loop of the check spring. (5) Pull the thread up so that the thread will drop into the tension thread guard. (6) Then bring the thread up and through the hole in the take-up lever (7) from right to left, down through the face plate thread guide (8), through the needle bar thread guide (9), and into the eye of the needle (10) from front to back. (See: Fig. 1)SOME HELPFUL HINTS FOR EASY THREADING A. To thread tension regula- tor (No. 4, 5 and 6 in Fig. 1 of page 12) 1. While holding the thread with your right hand, with your left pass the thread between the tension discs from the right, under and around the tension regulator knob. (Fig. 1) 2. Pass the thread in the loop of the check spring and pull the end of the thread to the right. By so doing the thread will automatically pass through under the thread guard. (Fig. 1) * Ifthe upper thread isnot threaded correctly, it may result in: Breaking thread Skipped stitches Puckering fabric Breaking needle or check spring B. To thread the needle (No. 10 in Fig. 1 of page 12) 1. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back. Pull out about 6 inches of the thread through the eye of the needle. (Fig. 3) * Ifthe needle is incorrectly thread- ed it may result in: Breaking thread Thread tangled tension © guard de tension tension dise ale I springTO DRAW UP THE LOWER THREAD Hold the end of the upper thread lightly with your left hand. Turn the balance wheel towards you slowly with your right hand until the needle moves down and up again to the highest point, then stop the balance wheel. Pull the upper thread slowly, then the lower thread will be brought up from the needle hole in a loop. Pull the both ends of the threads from under the presser foot and place them away from you. * The threads will tangle unless they are placed opposite you as shown in Fig. 3:TO START TO SEW It is so easy to sew straight seam with this highly advanced machine.TO REGULATE STITCH LENGTH AND TO SEW IN REVERSE indicating line: een ne LA To regulate stitch length : Set the red line on the stitch length regulator knob against desired number on the stitch, length regulator dial. Then you will obtain the desired stitches from fine to coarse as shown in Fig. 2. To sew in reverse, press the reverse push button at the center of the stitch length regulator knob as far as it will go and keep it in posi- tion until desired number of stitches are sewn. Reverse sewing is uscd to reinforce the seam at the starting and the ending points.TO USE DROP FEED DEVICE The height of the feed dog can be adjusted with the drop feed knob on the right hand corner of the bed. (Fig. 1) For sewing average and heavy materials, the drop feed knob should be sct at “2” (Fig. 2) For sewing light materials like silk, it may be set at “I” in order to avoid pucker- ing the material. (Fig. 3) When the knob is turned to “O”, the feed dog drops below the surface of the needle plate. and machine stops feeding. (Fig 4) “Q” position is for darning, sewing on button and sew- ing with the flower stitcher attachment. (Fig. 4) (Fig. 1) needle plate indicating mark. feed dog drop feed knob 2 (Fig. 2) needle plate indicating mark. i feed dog drop feed knob 1 (Fig. 3) needle plate a i sicating mark Aida feed dog drop feed knob 0 (Fig. 4)TO ADJUST PRESSURE OF PRESSER BAR TO CLOTH The pressure of the presser bar to the cloth should be adjusted according to thickness of the cloth, so as to make smooth forward- ing of the cloth. To release the pressure, push down the regulator ring (A). For sewing very thin cloth, push the top of the bar (B) lightly to give the required pressure to the cloth. For sewing heavier cloth, push it down further to give more pressure to the cloth.TO REGULATE THREAD TENSIONS For ordinary stitching the tension of the upper and 3 AEB — lower threads should be IAB eee equal so as to lock both threads in the center of the (A) fabric. (A) If the tension. of one thread is stronger than that of the SS 5 Se other, imperfect stitching = will be the result. If the tension of the upper thread ®) is greater than that of the lower thread, the upper thread will lie straight along the upper surface of the fabric. (B) <9 If the tension of the lower thread is greater than that of the upper thread, the lower thread will lie straight along the underside of the fabric. (C) © (Fig. 1) TENSION OF UPPER THREAD The sewing machine will give perfect performance when the upper tension is correctly adjusted. a) The tension of the upper thread will become stronger when the thread tension knob is turned to the right or clockwise. 19b) The upper tension be- comes weaker when the tension knob is turned to the left or counter- clockwise c) When the tension has been adjusted satisfac- torily, the tension knob can be returned to the same knob number to obtain the same result. TENSION OF LOWER THREAD The tension of the lower thread is regulated by a small screw on the bobbin case tension spring. tension stronger a) To increase the tension, Sprin : ; weaker tighten the screw slightly with a small driver. screw b) To decrease the tension, loosen the screw slightly. 20TO SEW STRAIGHT SEAM When you sew straight seam, it is recommended to use the straight stitch presser foot included in the accessories in place of the zigzag (uni- versal) presser foot attached to your machine. However, it is not necessary to remove the zigzag cam (No. 0) from the machine. asic cam needle position | buttonhole knob: i stitch length. zigzag width ‘drop feed knob * Refer to page 30 as to changing cams. * Refer to page 25~26 as to setting the needle. TO START SEWING 1. Turn the baiance wheel towards you slowly with the right hand to let the needle penetrate the point from which to start sew- ing. lower thread — 2122 w Lower the presser foot and start sewing. It is only necessary for you to gently guide the material with your hands and avoid pulling it, be- cause the machine does the feeding. By pulling the fabric, it may re- sult in breaking needle and sew- ing irregular stitches. A clogged feed dog may cause an unsatisfactory feeding, 70 TURN CORNER LL Stop sewing with the needle in the fabrio and lift the presser foot. Turn the fabric around the needle. Lower the presser foot and start to sew again.TO FINISH SEAM 1. At the end of a seam, press the reverse push button to sew a few stitches in reverse for reinforcement. 2, Stop the machine when the take-up lever is at its highest position. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric away from you. 3. Sever the thread with the thread cutter attached to the presser bar or with a pair of scissors leaving about 6 inches of thread from the eye of needle. (Fig. 3) 23ZIGZAG SEWING Zigzag sewing is not difficult at all. As you know, “ Practice makes perfect.” 24TO PREPARE FOR ZIGZAG SEWING The large knob located in the center of the machine arm is used: i, By turning the outer ring which is called “Needle Position Selector Knob”......... As you turn the knob at each mark of L. M. and R anti- clockwise it will select the needle position at the left, the center and the right respectively. By setting the knob at “Twin”, the maximum width of the zigzag stitch is reduced for prevention of the twin needle hitting the needle plate. Thus, it is used for sewing with twin needle. 2. By | the center knob which is called “Button hole Knob”. As you turn the knob clockwise, the machine will sew the buttonhole stitches at “1”, “2” and “3”. If you turn the knob anti-clockwise past “OFF” position, this will open the cam com- partment lid. With the knob at “OFF” position, the pattern cam is disengaged from the mechanism to be replaced. The button hole knob should be set at “S” other than those cases mentioned above. A. Buttonhole knob moves within this limit. B. Cam compart- ment lidis opened. C. Needle — position selector knob moves within this limit. 25TO SET ZIGZAG WIDTH REGULATOR LEVER AND ZIGZAG WIDTH LIMITER KNOBS Wt MAW AWWW jgzag width zigzag width fimiter righ limiter Cleft) zigzag width regulator lever (Fig. 2) 26 As you turn the zigzag width regulator lever from left to right or from “0” to “5S”, the machine will sew zigzag stitches of increasing width up to about 3/16 of an inch Should you wish to set width of zigzag stitches at acertain number, move the left zigzag width limiter knob together with the re- gulator lever to the position. In order to move the limiter knob, first press in the knob and then move it sidewise to the desired position. The right zigzag width limiter knob is used for set- ting a maximum zigzag width. This is particularly convenient when you wish to manually regulate zigzag width to produce patterns.TO SET STITCH LENGTH FOR ZIGZAG SEWING To regulate length of stitch, turn the stitch length re- gulator knob to the required length. The figure 1 shows you how zigzag stitches will appear at different length settings. For sewing good satin stitch length of 0.25 to 0.50 is recommended. Some more information re- gardiug zigzag sewing: Thread tension...... It is recommended that the upper tension is loosened slightly so that the threads lock underside of the fabric as shown in the figure at the right. For changing pattern cams... Refer to page 30. Drop feed knob.. Same as in case of sewing straight seam: “2” for medium weight and heavy fabrics, and “1” for light fabrics such as silk and nylon. (Fig. 1) ‘airection of fabric upper thread on the surface of fabric thread (Fig. 2) 27MANUAL ZIGZAG SEWING | presser foot ---zigzag foot | eam vr basic cam No. 0! | buttonhole knob- )stitch length-...- | zigzag width lever -- “drop feed knob --- aigzag width sigsey widtt a imiter (left) zigzag width regulator lever (Fig. 1) ‘cam compartment id 28 A variety of patterns can be secured by manually chang- ing either the zigzag width control or the needle position to create the desired pattern while running the machine. In manual zigzag sewing, use the basic zigzag cam (No. 0) which is already attached to your machine when you re- ceive it from your dealer. For monogram and special designs use a hoop for keep- ing the material taut and for better movement in the desired direction, first remov- ing the presser foot.SOME EXAMPLES AND THEIR SETTINGS OF MANUAL ZIGZAG PATTERNS. *Cam—basic cam No. 0 *Buttonhole knob—S : : | Stitch length] Zigzag width sipositign ‘ce aananoanaenea! any length 0 L ANAM below 1 5 LMR AWW any length 1~5 L.M.R alien, | . move0~Sand L return to 0 *wqe sg" 7 7 R WAAAY | 3~1cepeaty | any width | LMR 2~4(2~5) vwllMovlliy | any tengen | 278255 L elie ’ . M slowly 0 to 5 otal » [and Guickly |b return to 0 “aaj : w AAR * ” R alternatively Ele . eae vata pl ” about 1% | L-M-R-M-L ee . 2 slowly L-R-L 29SEWING PATTERNS WITH CAMS 24 cams supplied with your machine will enable you to sew beautiful decorative patterns of distinctive designs and figures without manually adjusting the controls during the operation. The pattern cams No. 0 through 12 will produce solid patterns, scallop stitches, blind hem stitches and multiple zigzag stitches, while the pattern cams No. 13 through No. 24 will produce patterns by automatic reverse stitch and figures such as flowers, yacht, fish, tree and bird. HOW TO INSERT CAM 1. Turn the — buttonhole knob anti-clockwise past “OFF” position. This action will release the latch and open the cam compartmet lid on the top cover. 2. Take out the basic zigzag cam (No. 0) and insert a cam lining up the retain- ing pin against the hole in the cam. 3. Close the lid. 4. Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at «gy, * By lining up the indicating line on the cam against the tip of the cam follower, you can always start off a pattern from the start- ing point. In order to do that, turn hand wheel until the cam rotates and comes to the indica- ting line, 30PATTERNS SEWN WITH CAM NO. 1 THROUGH NO. 11 presser foot cam ..,No. 1 through No. 11 needle position....... buttonhole knob. . : stitch length | zigzag width ! drop feed knob « . Zigzag foot Single Needle -atitratie alll L_* | “VYTVY Patterns made with zigzag width regulator lever at 5 31PATTERNS SEWN WITH CAM NO. 12 THROUGH NO. 24 | presser foot -.--.-zigzag foot cam - No. 12 to No. 24 | needle position oo buttonhole knob | stitch length knob..- zigzag width lever.-- | drop feed knob * Be sure to set the stitch length re- gulator knob at 4. * Sewing with medium speed will produce beautiful patterns, * If patterns appear to be deformed, see page 68. Cam Re Single needle » | WAHEED @ 2 “*88 © ° n | Rseee «| GEG 32TWIN NEEDLE SEWING Colorful and beautiful pat- terns are sewn with a twin needle using two threads of contrasting colors. /cam:-.No. 0 through No. 1 | needle position - | buttonhole knob: istitch @.@* | length @.@ | zigzag width -. {drop feed knob 1, Set the needle position selector knob at TWIN and the buttonhole knob at S as in Fig. 1. 2. Insert the twin needle correctly as the same way as you do with the single needle. (Fig. 2) 3. Place two spools of threads on the spool pins and guide the threads the same way as in case of the single threading. needle * Sce Fig. 1 at page 34 as to thread- ing the upper thread. * The needle may be damaged unless the needle position selec- tor knob is set at TWIN and the needle is correctly inserted. (Fig. 1) (Fig. 2) 33TO THREAD FOR TWIN NEEDLE Threading the twin needle is done the same way as in case of the single needle threading except that two threads are passed through each eye of the needle. l. Pass the thread through the top cover thread guides (1, 2 & 3), down- wards between and (Fig. 1) around the tension discs (4) from right to left, up and into the loop of the check spring (5). Pull the thread up so that the thread will drop into the tension thread guard (6). Then bring the thread up and through the hole in the take-up lever (7), down through the face plate thread guide (8), through the needle bar thread guide (9), and into each eye of the needle (Fig. 2) (10) from front to back. * The lower thread in twin needle ‘sewing is same as it is in the single needle sewing. 34PATTERN SEWING WITH TWIN NEEDLE Patterns with a twin needle may be sewn at any width setting between “0” and “2”, But at any setting larger than “2” will not turn out larger stitch width due to the width limiting device for twin needle sewing. CamNo.| Twin needle [CamNo.] Twin needle “aaNet | VVVVV 1 | 10% tet > Wav Paya my ye/ oN ot Mint i, 5 THA 14 BOVIUORL ae pie Sie DIMA eS [> RRR | BSS All other operations are done the same way as in the case of the single needle pattern sewing When sewing extremely light weight fabrics such as rayon tricot, crepe de Chine and other with a twin needle, it is recom- mended to use a piece of paper for backing the material or to use an emb-oidery hoop to stretch the material. Also use of the buttonhole foot included in the accessories instead of the regular foot may bring you a better result. In case of twin needle sewing using cam No. 12 through 18, push patchomatic darner as far as it will go. : In extreme cases, a combination of the above mentioned methods is recommended. I 35,TO TURN A CORNER [Change direction of fabric ise needle bar to fhe highest point _-Haise presser foot Lower presser foot To turn a corner with a twin needle, turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle is raised above the fabric. Then change direction of the fabric. *The needle will be damaged if you move the fabric while the needle is in it. Special fabrics such as crepe du Chine or tricot, etc. will pucker if sewn with a twin needle. In this case, stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop. i. First sew from A to B. 2. Remove the hoop from the fabric with the needle in it. ‘ 3. Move the hoop from C to E and sew to the point C. 4. Repeat the same proce- dure.PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS You will find this machine so versatile that it does almost anything a sewing machine can do. 37TO USE THE BASIC CAM a (Fig. 2) 38 BUTTONHOLE The buttonhole stitch maker built into this machine will enable you to sew a button- hole in a short time without turning fabric. 1, Replace the presser foot with the buttonhole foot included in the acces- sories. 2. Insert the basic zigzag cam (No. 0).Set the stitch length regulator knob at any point within the mark depending on what kind of satin stitches you may require. With a pencil or tailor’s chalk, mark the position and the length of the buttonhole on the fabric. Set the zigzag width regulator lever according to the required width of the buttonhole and fix the lever with the zigzag width limiters. Set the needle position selector knob at “L”. (Fig. 3) (Fig. 5) 39TO SEW BUTTONHOLE settings for buttonhole sewing 40 Set the buttonhole knob at 1. Turn the balance wheel slowly towards you until the needle comes to the left side of the needle hole (A) and lower the presser foot. Sew slowly until a desired length is sewn and stop the machine at the point (B). Set the buttonhole knob at 2. Sew about 5 stitches as shown in Fig. 1-2 and stop the machine when the needle comes to the point (C). Set the buttonhole knob at 3. Sew until the right row is as the same size as the left one, stop the machine when the needle comes to the point (D) and raise the needle. Set the buttonhole knob at 2. Sew about 5 stitches and raise the needle.10. To lock the thread, set the zigzag width regula- tor knob at 0 and sew a few stitches. 11. With a button hole cutter or a seam ripper, cut the slot of the button- hole carefully not to cut through the bar tacks. * A tighter upper tension will improve appearance of buttonhole stitches. * Clean feed dog will ensure good buttonhole stitches. * When the left row and right row of a buttonhole are not even, refer to page 68. 41BUTTON SEWING (Fig. 3) 42 lL. Replace the presser foot with the button sew-on foot included in the ac- cessories. 2. Set the drop feed knob at “0” and insert the basic zigzag cam. (No. 0) 3. Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at «sg,Place a button on the fabric with its holes in horizontal line and turn the balance wheel slowly towards you with your right hand making sure the needle drops to the left hole of the button. Lower the presser foot on the button. Raise the needle and move the zigzag width regulator lever to the right until the needle will drop into the right hole of the button. Then fix the lever with the zigzag width limiter. (Fig. 2) Sew five or six stitches. Return the lever to “0” and sew three or four stitches. (Fig. 3) A button with four holes can be sewn the same way as in two hole button, * Should you wish to keep a clea- rance between the button and the fabric, place a match stick right underneath the center of the button when sewing and remove it after it has done, left hole right hole (Fig. 1) right limiter according to buttonhole width. (Fig. 2) zigzag width 0 for locking|APPLIQUE cam- needle position: buttonhole knob stitch length “zigzag width.--.-- : dro; basic cam No.0 feed knob- Replace the presser foot with the applique foot. Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at S. Set the zigzag width regulator lever at any point you like (usually at about 3). Set the stitch length regulator knob at any point between 0.5 and 2 and insert the basic zigzag cam (No. 0) Glue the applique in the position or use Scotch tape. Sew along the edge of the applique. + Lock the thread at the beginning and also at the end of seam.BRAID SEWING | presser foot:--braider foot | i basic cam No.0 | : needle position | buttonhole knob- jstitch length’ | zigzag width [drop feed 1. Replace the presser foot with the braider foot. 2. Set the needle position regulator knob at L and the buttonhole knob at s. 3. Insert the braid through the thread guide spring on the braider foot, and as you lower the foot lay it in the slot under the foot. 4. Adjust width of zigzag stitches to cover the braid you are sewing. 5. Then sew on the braid. 45TO USE HEMMER FOOT -— w Attach the hemmer foot. (Fig. 1) Set the zigzag width regulator lever at 0. Set the needle position selector knob at L and the buttonhole knob at S. Crease a double 1/8 inch fold for about 2 inches along the edge of the fabric to be hemmed. (Fig. 3) Place the folded edge under the foot at an an- gle and turn the balance wheel until the tip of the needle enters the point from which to start sewing. (Fig. 4) (Fig. 3) 466. Then turn the fabric around to the sewing po- sition as shown in Fig. I. 7. Insert the folded edge into the mouth of the foot. 8. Lower the foot. While sewing, hold the fabric carefully with your right hand so that it is evenly fed into the mouth of the hemmer foot. ib (Fig. 3) 47SEWING ON ZIPPER zipper foot adjusting screw @ auilter ® set screw ‘Take off quilter attachment © ts (right) needle entry 48. 1. Loosen the screw (A) and remove the hook shaped quilter attachments (C) from the zipper foot (D). Attach the zipper foot to the presser bar. 3. Set the zigzag width re- gulator lever at 0. 4, Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at S. 5. To sew the left side of the zipper, loosen the adjusting screw (B) to set the foot on the left side of the needle. Then tighten the screw (B). 6. Sew along the edge of the zipper. 7. To sew the right side of the zipper, bring the foot to the right side of the needle and repeat the same procedure as with the left side. N zipper foot adjusting needle entry left)TO USE QUILTING ATTACHMENT 1. Loosen the set screw (A) and attach the hook shaped quilter attach- ments (C) to the double purpose zipper foot. 2. Attach the double pur- pose zipper foot to the quilter machine. foot attachments zipper foot adjusting screw @) auilter set screw ® 3. Set the zigzag width regulator lever at 0. (Fig. 1) 4. Set the needle position regulator knob at “L” or “M”and the buttonhole knob at S. 5. Turn the balance wheel towards you to make sure that the needle will fall into the presser foot correctly and tighten the screw (B) firmly. 6 Adjust the curved hook ata distance from needle and adjust it to press on the fabric and tighten the screw (A) firmly. 7. When sewing, the hook should follow the preced- ing line of stitching! * There are two kinds of quilters to be attached to the right or the left side of the clamp on the zipper foot depending on the distance between paralle! lines, (Fig. 3) 49TO USE CLOTH GUIDE (Fig. 3) Cloth guide is used for stitching close to the edge of the fabric or to make a wide hem up to 1 1/2 inches in a straight and uniform line. (Fig. 1) 1. Place the guide on the holes to the right of the needle on the bed of the machine and tighten the thumb screw firmly adjusting the guide at the desired distance. (Fig. 2) 2. Run the machine with the edge of the fabric closely touched the guide. (Fig. 3) “It is recommended to use this guide in zigzag pattern sewing.DARNING AND EMBROIDERY 1. Remove the presser foot from the machine. 2. Set the drop feed knob at 0 and insert the basic zigzag cam (No. 0). 3. Draw your desired design on the fabric with a pencil or tailor’s chalk. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop and (Fig. 1) place it under the needle. 4. While moving the hoop slowly with the left hand following the design in the fabric, move the zigzag width regulator lever to change the width. (Fig. 3) * Stretch the fabric as firmly as * For the best appearance of em- possible. broidery work, make tension of * Press down the hoop while the the upper thread as weak as pos- machine is running not to make sible lest the lower thread be clearance between the bed and pulled up on the surface. the fabric. 51TO SEW BLIND STITCH HEM Blind stitch hemming is used for trousers, skirts, etc. By this method, a stitch on the surface of the fabric can be made smallest possible. 1. Replace the basic cam (No. 0) with the pattern cam. (No. 10) 2. Set the needle position selector knob at “R” and the buttonhole knob at «gy, 3. Set the zigzag width regulator lever between #3” and “4”, 4. Set the stitch length regulator knob between «0.5" and “3”, o Turn the hand wheel until the feed dog goes down below the needle plate level. 6. Lower the presser foot. (Fig. 2) 52Then loosen the presser foot thumb screw to in- sert the blind stitch hem guide between the screw and the presser foot. Tighten the presser foot thumb screw making sure that the guide (A) is placed in the middle of the toes of the presser foot. wo.T With the fabric inside out, fold it to the desired size of hem. (No. 1) wo, =, 2 10. Fold it again leaving a margin of 1/8 inch on the bottom fold (No. 2) Feed the fabric along the guide. Wo. 3 _ 11. Unfold the fabric (No.3) and you will have a blind stitch hem. 53 Y :TO SEW STRETCH MATERIALS When sewing stretch materials, the following method will prevent 54 the thread from breaking. This will be especially effective in sewing darts, sleeves and etc.. Insert the pattern cam. (No. 11) Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at «gs? Set the zigzag width re- gulator lever between 2 and 3. Set the stitch length re- gulator knob between 0.5 and 2. Use a needle of finer signs such as “B” (Il) and “O” (gg). In order to maintain the form or shape with the stretch ma- terial, use of linings is recom- mended whenever possible.TRIPLE STITCHED SEAM The triple stitch seam is a tri- ple reinforced straight seam recommended for the places subject to constant pressure and strain. i. Insert the pattern cam No. 16. 2. Set the needle position (Fig. 1) selector knob at L and buttonhole knob at S. zigzag width 5 3. Set the zigzag width re- gulator lever at 0. 4. Set the stitch length re- gulator knob at 4. zigzag width 0 (Fig. 2) 55FAGOTING As an application of the automatic reverse feed stitches, fagoting for a decorative effect on ladies’ and children’s dresses is done as follows. 1. Select any pattern cam from No. 15 through No. 17. (Patterns shown in Fig. | are..made by these cams) 2. Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at «g”, 3, Set the stitch length re- gulator knob at 4 and the zigzag width regula- tor lever at 5. 4. Fold each edge’ of two fabrics about 3/8 inch (Fig. 2) and place them under the presser foot with the distance of about 1/8 inch apart. Lower the presser foot and_ start sewing. # In is suggested to lightly glue the | igce two pieces of fabric on a picce ‘ol yarer of paper so that the fabric will stay in position while sewing. (Fig. 3) 56SMOCKING smocking »~ backside of fabric upper thread ~ Smocking is used on child- ren’s and ladies’ dresses, aprons and slip covers. 1. Insert the basic zigzag éam (No. 0) and replace the presser foot with the one for straight sewing. Set the needle position selector knob at “L” and the buttonhole knob at eae 3. Set the zigzag width regulator lever at “0” and the stitch length N 4. Set the thread tension regulator knob at 0 for a least upper tension. 5. Sew straight lines with a space of about 3/8 inch between them on the wrong side of the fabric. 6. Draw up the lower thread for desired amount. 7. Then replace the foot with the zigzag foot. Remove the basic zigzag cam (No. 0) and select any cam from No. 13 through No. 24. 8. Set the zigzag width re- gulator lever at 5. * Sct the stitch length regulator knob at 4 and the thread tension regulator knob at the normal set- ting for zigzag sewing. 9. Sew patterns on the smocking. 10. When sewing is over, pull out the threads of the straight stitch for completing the smocking. 57TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE IN BEST CONDITION Please treat with affection as a new member of your good family. 58TO Oil THE MACHINE To ensure easy and free working of the machine it is necessary that all moving parts be covered with a film of oil. 1. Apply a few drops of fine quality sewing ma- chine oil once a week in normal use to the points indicated by the arrows in the figures. * In constant use, oil the machine once in about 7 to 10 hours of use. Oiling is particularly ne- cessary after the machine was standing idle for some time. 2. After oiling, run the ma- chine rapidly for a few minutes to let the oil penetrate into every part. a (Fig. 2) 59HOW TO REMOVE AND RESET THE TOP COVER Loosen top cover set screw, af Remove top cover top cover set q b TQ REMOVE 1. Loosen the top cover set screw with a screw driver and the top cover. (Fig. 1) remove TO RESET 2. Place the top cover on the arm and tighten the screw. ip 60TO CLEAN THE FEED DOG Lint and loose threads are liable to collect on the feed dog. Therefore it is necessary that the dog be cleaned from time to time. IP’ presser foot! I] thumb screw 1. Loosen thumb screw and J- needie remove the presser foot. a 2. Loosen needle plate set screws and take off needle plate. 3. Clean lint and loose threads in the feed dog with a brush, Clean also the reverse side of the feed dog using cloth. 4. After cleaning is over, reset the needle plate and presser Toot. + Lint and loose threads in the feed dog may cause noise and the machine running heavily. 61TO REMOVE AND GLEAN SHUTTLE HOOK TO REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK When loose threads get into the shuttle race or the shuttle race needs oiling, remove the shuttle hook. 1. Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle bar comes to its highest point. Then tilt back the head on_ its hinges. 2. Open the shuttle cover plate to take out the bobbin case by the latch. 3. Open shuttle race clasps outward, 62 (Fig. 1)a Then remove shuttle race ring. Remove the shuttle hook. \N y shuttle hook . Remove the red cleaner at the tip of a small screw driver. 63TO CLEAN THE SHUTTLE HOOK 1. Clean the inside of the shuttle hook with a brush. Turn the balance wheel towards you to turn the driver body for cleaning 2. Apply a few drops of oil after cleaning. * Do not oil too much. * Lint and loose threads in the shuttle may be the cause of neise, machine running heavily and also breaking the lower thread. 64DO-IT-YOURSELF ADJUSTMENT Here are some helpful hints toward a perfect sewing. 65TO ADJUST BOBBIN WINDING DEVICE When the bobbin is wound excessively on the lower part of the bobbin (B): Swing open the face plate and loosen the screw as shown in Fig. 1. Raise the bobbin winder thread guide slightly. Then tighten the screw firmly to reset the thread guide. When the bobbin is wound excessively on the upper part of the bobbin (C): 3. 66 ee: i a Swing open the face plate and loosen the screw as shown in Fig. 2. Lower the bobbin winder thread guide slightly. Then tighten the screw firmly. The bobbin must be wound evenly. (A) If not, irregular stitching may be the result. bobbin winder | thread guide Set screw rl (Fig. 1)TILTING SPOOL FOR PREVENTION OF THREAD TANGLING HOW TO TILT THE SPOOL PIN BASE It is recommended that spool pin base is tilted for prevent- ing the thread from tangl- ing. Pull the spool pin base off the machine arm and tilt the base downward until the pin fits into the lower notch as shown in Fig. 1 and 2. Don’t remove this screw 67TO ADJUST AMOUNT OF AUTOMATIC REVERSE FEED Run the machine at the medium speed (600-800rpm) when you use pattern cams from No. 13 to No. 24 for the best appearance. Ifthe pattern appears to be deformed, make adjust- ments as follows. No. | of Fig. } shows you the correct super pattern. If the pattern appears contracted as No. 2, turn the automatic reverse feed regulating lever in the direction of (+). If the pattern appears expanded as No. 3, turn the lever in the direction of (—). (Fig. 1) TO ADJUST THE BUTTONHOLE STITCHES When there is a difference in the satin stitches in the right row and the left row of the buttonhole, make adjustments as follows: If the stitches in the left row are coarse, turnthestitchlength adjusting screw to the right. If the right row is coarse, turn the screw to the left. stitch length adjusting screw! adjusting screw 68SETTINGS Prwmr wo [Sam [se] ete | sh [Se [feet Sewing. knob e knob Straight sewing] straight foot of. s 0 2 Manual zigzag| zigzag foot of . s Ins | 2 Pattern sewing * mio : a~s | 2 Pattern sewing ” 12-2) Se 345 | 2 Twin needle ” Healt twin} = [%3707) 2 2 Buttonhole buttonhole foot 0 L fl42+3-+2)0.3~0.7] 3~5 2 Buttoning buttoning foot | 0 | L s 0 for2~s] 0 Applique applique foot oR s 05~2 | 205 | 2 Braidering | braider foot ie s ~3 | ina] 2 Hemmer | femmer foot OF s 0 2 Gloth guide | HTH or zigzag] g | 1 s ons | 2 Zipper zipper foot o| . s 0 2 Quilting oe | ale s Ins o 2 Embroidery | Remove foot | 0 | L s 0 o-5 | 0 Blind stitch | zigzag foot wo} ou s oon | aa | 2 Triple stitched) ji g2ag foot ie} oo. ol 0 2 Fagoting zigzag foot 151617] s 4 5 Smocking zigzag foot al s a . 2UNSATISFACTORY CONDITIONS : CAUSES AND REMEDIES Condition Cause eee *The machine | 1, The machine is in need of oil. 59-60 does not run | 2. Oil of inferior quality is used. Use good oil smoothly | 3, Loose thread has collected in the hook | 62-64 and is noisy: mecharism. 4, Lint hes collected on the feed dog. 61 *The upper | 1. The thread is not threaded correctly. 12-13 thread breaks:| 2, The tension on upper thread is too tight. | 19 3. The needle is bent or dull. Replace it. 4, The needle is incorrectly inserted 8 Replace 5. The eye of the needle is nicked shuttle cover plate. 6 The fabric is not correctly removed | 23 after sewing is over. 7. The thread is too heavy or light for the | 7 needle. *The lower | |. The lower thread is incorrectly threaded | !0 Lede eadaald in the bobbin case. 2, The bobbin case tension is too strong. | 20 3, Dust has collected in the shuttle hook | Overhaul and spring. bobbin case. 4, The thread is wound unevenly around | 66 the bobbin. *The needle | 1, The needle is incorrectly inserted. 8 breaks: 2, The needle is bent. Replace it. 3. The needle clamp screw is loosen. 8 4. Tension of upper thread is too strong. 19 5. The fabric is not correctly removed after | 23 sewing is over. 6. The needle is too fine for the cloth sewn. | 7 7. The stitch length regulator knob or the | Raise needle bar to the zigzag width regulator lever is moved | highest point while the needle is in fabric. Reon 8, The needle position selector knob is not set at TWIN in casc of twin needle sewing. 33 701, The need is incorrectly inserted in the | 8 needle bar, 2. The needle is bent. Replace it. *Skipped stitehes:| 3. The thread is not the correct size for | 7 the needle. 4, The upper thread is not threaded cor- | 12-13 rectly. i. The thread tension is too strong. 19-20 2. The thread is not threaded correctly. | 12-13 *Seam shrinks or | 3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric. | 7 puckers : 4. The stitch is too coarse for the material.| 16 5. The thread is wound unevenly around | 66 the bobbin. 1. The tension on the upper thread is too | 19 strong. *Stitching forms | 2, The bobbin case tension spring is either | 20 loops: too strong or too weak. 3. The needle is the wrong size for the | 7 thread. *The fabric isnot | 1. Lint has collected on or around the | 61 fedding smooth- feed dog. ly: 2, The drop feed knob setting is incorrect | 17 for the fabric sewn. 7