Knitting

Content
1.Basic
2.Circular Knitting & Machine
3.Knitting Process
4.Yarn
5.Knitting Defected
Basic
Basic
A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a network
of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is
produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, or other
material to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving,
No-weaving and knitting etc.

Weaving Nonwoven Knitting

 Weaving is a method of textile production in
Basic which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

Generally used to refer to fabric composed of two sets

of yarns, warp and filling, that is formed weaving, which
is the interlacing of these sets of yarns. However, there
are woven fabrics in which three sets of yarn are used
to give a triaxial weave. In two-dimensional wovens,
there may be two or more warps and fillings in a fabric,
depending on the complexity of the construction. The
manner in which the two sets of yarns are interlaced
determines the weave. By using various combinations
of the three basic weaves, plain, twill, and satin, it is
possible to produce an almost unlimited variety of
constructions. Other effects may be obtained by varying
the type of yarns, filament or spun, and the fiber types
twist levels, etc.
Basic
Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like
material made from long fibers, bonded together by
chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. An
assembly of textile fibers held together by
mechanical interlocking.in a random web or mat, by
fusing of the fibers (in the case of thermoplastic
fibers), or by bonding with a cementing medium
such as starch, glue, casein, rubber, latex, or one of
the cellulose derivatives or synthetic resins. Initially,
the fibers may be oriented in one direction or may be
deposited in a random manner. This web or sheet of
fibers is bonded together by one of the methods
described above. Normally, crimped fibers that
range in length from 0.75 to 4.5 inches are used.
Nonwoven fabrics are used for expendable items
such as hospitable sheets, napkins, diapers, wiping
cloths, as the base material for coated fabrics, and
in a variety of other applications. They can also be
used for semi-disposable items and for permanent
items such as interlinings.
Basic Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting. Its
properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it is more
flexilite and can be more readily constructed into smaller
pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.
Basic
Basic
Basic
Basic
Basic
• Quiz by group
• 1) Advantage and disadvantage of
Weaving, Non-Weaving and Knitting
• 2) Give some example of Weaving, Non-
Weaving and Knitting
Circular Knitting
Circular Knitting
• In Nanjing, Major product is weft knitting.
And Circular is one of the weft knitting.
Circular Knitting
Circular Knitting

Wale

Courses

Circular Knitting - Fabric is produced on the knitting machine in tubular form. The needles &
sinkers transform incoming yarn into courses which are rows of loops or stitches across the knitted
fabric & wales which are vertical chains of loops in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
Circular Knitting
THE FEEDERS
储纱器

KNITTING AREA
编织区

Operator Station
操作台

TAKE-UP AREA Main Power

主电源
牵拉装置
 Circular Knitting
2 types of knitting
machine

Jersey Knitting machine

• Jersey
 Jersey
Jersey : A circular-knit or flat-knit fabric made with a
plain stitch in which the loops intermesh in only one direction.
As a result, the appearance of the face and the back of a jersey
fabric is wholly different.
Circular Knitting
Rib Knitting
Machine
Yield Rib Knitting fabric
 Rib
Rib Knit: A double-knit fabric in which the wales or vertical
rows of stitches intermesh alternately on the face and the
back. In other words, odd wales intermesh on one side of the
cloth and even wales on the other. Rib knit fabrics of this type
have good elasticity, especially in the width.
Circular Knitting
• Quiz by Group
• Different between Jersey and Rib
• What Jersey and Rib used for
Knitting Process
 Machine Output
Dep Machine Type Machine Photo Available Quantity Machine/OP
（lbs/hour）

Rib 122 4.20 46

machine speed
Jersey 60 3.00 71

Knitting A-shirt 6 7.00 19

Body Size Jersey 25 3.00 55

Cotton Stretch Jersey 16 3.00 29

26
Knitting Process

Yarn 纱线 Creeling 上纱 Technic setting工艺设定

Inspect 验布 Doff 落布 knitting织布

Weight 称重 TTS report 输入系统 Send out 出布

Yarn
Yarn
Yarn
1.Cotton
760 435C 28/1 100% cotton OE

2. Blending
739 436C 25/75 P/C OE

3 Poly Filament
100% 1/150/48 Poly Filament

4Spandex Yarn
30/1 90% Cotton 10% 70d Lycra RS
 Yarn Name
760 435C 28/1 100% cotton OE
760：item no.
435C：lot no.
28/1:（28S）thickness of yarn
100% cotton：the content of yarn，100% cotton for this case
OE: The way of yarn yield，Retro Spinning/OE
28S Carded cotton OE 100%
Carded Yarn
739 436C 25/75 P/C OE
Polyester 25%，Cotton 75%

30/1 90% Cotton 10% 70d Lycra RS

70D
 Yarn Count
• Denier
• Denier or den (abbreviated D), a unit of measure for the linear mass density
of fibers, is defined as the mass in grams per 9000 meters.[1] The denier is
based on a natural reference: a single strand of silk is approximately one
denier; a 9000-meter strand of silk weighs about one gram. The term denier
comes from the French denier, a coin of small value (worth 1⁄12 of a sou).
Applied to yarn, a denier was held to be equal in weight to 1⁄24 of an ounce.
The term micro denier is used to describe filaments that weigh less than
one gram per 9000 meters.
•

• Weight of 9000m
• 1 denier
• = 1 gram per 9000 meters
• = 0.11 milligrams per meter
 Yarn Count
• An S number on the label of a wool suit, or other tailored wool
apparel, indicates the fineness of the wool fiber used in the making
of the apparel. The numbers may also be found on wool fabric and
yarn. The S numbers for fine wool products are intended to state,
with precision, the fineness of the wool fiber used in the product, as
measured in micrometres. Fiber fineness is one of the factors
determining the quality and performance of a wool product. In recent
years it has also become an important marketing device used by
many mills, garment makers, and retailers. The S number appears
as a plural with an " s " or " 's " following the number, such as 100s
or 100's.
• How many 840 yard it has from 1 pound of yarn
 Yarn used in HBI Nanjing
1,Ring Spinning/RS Nanjing Use
Ring spinning is a method of spinning fibres, such as cotton, flax or wool, to make a
yarn. The ring frame developed from the throstle frame, which in its turn was a
descendant of Arkwright's water frame. Ring spinning is a continuous process, unlike
mule spinning which uses an intermittent action.

2,Retro Spinning/OE Nanjing Use

It is also known as break spinning or rotor spinning. The principle behind open-end
spinning is similar to that of a clothes dryer spinning full of sheets. If you could
open the door and pull out a sheet, it would spin together as you pulled it out.
Sliver from the card goes into the rotor, is spun into yarn and comes out, wrapped up
on a bobbin, all ready to go to the next step. There is no roving stage or re-
packaging on an auto-coner.

3,Compact Spinning
4,Vortex spinning
 OE & RS Yarn
• As the fibres in open end yarn are generally not spun in
a parallel direction open end denim is more fuzzy
compared to ring spun yarn (see drawing above). As a
result, the yarn absorbs more indigo deeper into its core
which will eventually make it harder for you to get those
highly contracted fadings.
 OE & RS Yarn
• With denim the difference between the two spinning methods
becomes evident with numerous wears and washes. One of the
main characteristics of ring spun yarn is its uneven surface, which is
a result of its varying diameters. However, slub can also be imitated
in open end yarns. Additionally, ring spun yarn is both softer and
more durable compared to open end yarn.
Combed & Carded Yarn
Combed & Carded Yarn
Combed & Carded Yarn
• Carded and combed yarns of same count
have many different properties because of
different manufacturing process
• Combed yarn is of superior quality and
carded yarn is of inferior quality, this will
influence the fabric quality
Combed & Carded Yarn
• The finished knit fabrics made by carded yarn and
combed yarn have no significant change due to color
fastness to wash and color fastness to light. But, in case
of color fastness to rubbing, a little effect is found on
finished knit fabric made by a same count carded
and combed yarn. Some cases combed yarn shows
better result than carded yarn.
• Shrinkage of all types of fabric produced from
carded yarn is more than that produced from
combed yarn, while the yarn count is same. Generally
combed yarn strength is higher than carded yarn of the
same count. Carded yarn is more hairy.
Combed & Carded Yarn
• Pilling is a fabric surface fault which gives the garment
unsightly appearance. Pills are formed in fabric by
entangling the loose fibers or hairy fibers. When the
garment undergoes wear & washing these pills are
formed on the fabric surface. The resistance of pilling
effect on fabric produced by combed yarn gives
better result than same count carded yarn.
• Normally combed yarns are more uniform and more
lustrous than carded yarns. Fabric made of Combed
yarn is gentle against the skin.
Combed & Carded Yarn
• However, Carded yarn production process is easier than
combed yarn production process and carded yarn is also
cheaper than combed yarn.
Circular Knitting
• Quiz by Group
• Difference between Combed Yarn and
Card Yarn?
• How to indicate the degree of thickness for
yarn?
• Difference for RS/OE yarn?
 Knitting Defect
Reading material
 Knitting Defects
Double End - shown from face side of fabric.

Double End - occurs when two strands of yarn feed into the same knitting needle.
(horizontal defect)

Double End - shown from backing side of fabric.

 Knitting Defects

Drop Stitch - Stitch fails to form, could be caused by low tension, poor carrier settings,
malfunctioning needle. Drop Stitches can be scattered or in a vertical line.
 Knitting Defects
Face of fabric. Back of fabric.

End Down - A void in the fabric, caused by one or more missing strands of yarn that have
broken and are not feeding into the knitting needle(s). Fleece fabric is shown, same defect can
occur in jersey, french terry, rib etc.
 Knitting Defects

End Down - A void in the fabric, caused by one or more missing strands of yarn that have
broken and are not feeding into the knitting needle(s). Spandex rib fabric is shown.
Knitting Defects

Knit Contamination - Foreign matter has been knit into the fabric.
 Knitting Defects

Rundown - A vertical line of unformed stitches, can be caused

by a damaged needle or a break in the yarn.
Knitting Defects

Sinker Line - Vertical line caused by a broken sinker.

 Knitting Defects
Face side of fabric.

Back side of fabric.

Tape Off/Tight End - Repeating horizontal line in the fabric caused by incorrect
tension on one strand of yarn feeding into knitting machine. (will look thick on one
side of fabric and thin on the other side)
 Knitting Defects

Needle Run - Vertical line caused by a malfunctioning needle.

Knitting Defects

Bad Needle - Knitting needle’s latch is bent or the hook is spread apart, needle
malfunctions, stitches are not formed properly. (vertical defect)
Knitting Defects

Birdeyes - Unintentional tuck stitch that occurs when 2 stitches are pulled into
one hook at the same time. Birdeyes can be scattered or in a vertical line.
Knitting Defects

Press Off - Large hole created by a misaligned yarn guide, etc., causing a
group of needles to miss a course. (you will not see any yarn ends)
Knitting Defects

Lint Hole - Lint trapped on yarn, causes the knitting needle to malfunction resulting
in a hole.
Knitting Defects

Slub Hole - Fiber trapped in the yarn, causes the knitting needle to malfunction
resulting in a hole.
 Knitting Defects

Cut Hole - Small circular hole in the fabric, often with broken end(s) of yarn
protruding through the hole. Yarn reaches the knitting needles intact but breaks
some where during the knitting process. Weak yarn, excess or non uniform tension
& bad needles which can actually cut the yarn are primary causes.
Q&A