ModelMilitary Internationa LIssue 204 April 2023

FREE 180 metres of
masking tape! M24 CHAFFEE History and

References
ISSUE 204
April 2023
HA-GO
A GO-GO
Overlord
Miniatures 1:48
WWII IJA Type 95
Ha-Go Light Tank
ISSUE
204
April 2023
£5.25
THE
SOLDIER’S
FRIEND Takom BLITZ 1:35 StuH 42
Build Review
Italeri’s 1:35
M24 Chaffee
gets detailed
INSIDE: Dragon 1:35 Pz.Bef.Wg Panther with Zimmerit - PREVIEWED

Incoming n Small Scale n Book Reviews n 1:48 scale n and more...
Contents - Issue 204 April 2023
REGULARS
p 4 NEWS
What’s new in the world of military
modelling
p 56 INCOMING
News and reviews of new accessory and
decal releases
p 58 BOOKS
Military and modelling in print
p 60 1:48 SCALE
The latest news and reviews in Quarter
Inch Scale with Luke Pitt
p 65 NEXT ISSUE
What to look forward to next time
p 66 LAST POST
Breath-taking photographs captured by
Armed Forces photographers
FEATURES
p 6 THINK TANK
M24 Chaffee Pt.1 by Bruce Culver
p 12 KIT PREVIEW
Dragon 1:35 Early Priest
p 14 THE NAKED CHAFFEE

Italeri 1:35 M24 Chaffee ‘Korean War’ by
Andy King
p 24 HA-GO A GO-GO
Overlord Miniatures 1:48 WWII IJA Type 95
Ha-Go Light Tank by Luke Pitt
p 38 KIT PREVIEW
Dragon 1:35 Pz.Bef.Wg Panther w/ Zimmerit
COVER
p 40 THE SOLDIER’S FRIEND FEATURE
Clayton Ockerby adds detail to Takom’s
BLITZ 1:35 scale StuH 42
p 48 PINKUPANSER!
Tamiya 1:35 JGSDF
Type 74 Medium Tank
by Jim Turner
© Doolittle Media Ltd 2023
Tel: (UK) 01525 222573

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Address: Doolittle Media Ltd., The Granary,
Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK
Model Military International is published monthly by Doolittle
Media Ltd. Reproduction in part or whole of any text, photograph
or illustration without written permission from the publisher is
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of Model Military International is accurate, the publishers and
printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions.
ISSN 1749-8864
April 2023 - Model Military International 3

Newsline - April 2023
NEW TAMIYA 1:48 M8

HOWITZER MOTOR CARRIAGE
Tamiya has forwarded the following information
about their latest 1:48 scale military kit:
This 1:48 scale model kit recreates the 75 mm Howitzer Motor Carriage M8.
The M8 was a self-propelled howitzer vehicle, used by United States during World War II.
The M8, developed on the same chassis as the one used on the M5 Stuart tank, came equipped with a M116
howitzer in an M7 mount. Around 1,800 M8 units were-manufactured, from September 1942 to early 1944.
M8s saw action in Italy, Western Europe, and the Pacific, and supported U.S. infantry until the end of the war.
Tamiya’s 1:48 scale kit features a completely new design based upon the intensive research of the actual vehicle.
• 1:48 scale plastic model assembly kit. Length: 92mm, width: 48mm.
• Features realistic renderings of interior details (such as main gun breech) of turret, plus the howitzer covered by
a distinctive sleeve.
• Assembly type tracks feature one-piece straight sections.
• Includes two marking options to depict the 106th Cavalry Reconnaissance Group, Germany or the 758th Tank
Battalion, Italy.
• Metal chassis weights give the model a realistic heavy feel.
• Comes with one full body commander figure.
Thanks to Tamiya for the information and model images www.tamiya.com
4 Model Military International - April 2023

Think Tank - M24 Chaffee Light Tank History Part 1
This M5A1 Stuart light tank traverses
open ground in France during the
Normandy campaign, summer 1944.
By D-Day, the M5 series was obsolete,
and the 37mm M6 gun was too small
to defend against any enemy vehicles
except armoured cars.
In Part One of this

series, Bruce Culver
examines the history
and operations of the
M24 Chaffee Light Tank.
M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK

PART ONE - HISTORY OF THE M24 LIGHT TANK
T
he M24 light tank was one DESIGNING A NEW LIGHT TANK attacks by the heavier tanks to be replaced.
of the finest tank designs The impetus for designing a new follow the initial assaults. However, In early 1941, Ordnance and
to come out of the WWII light tank during the war came events in North Africa soon proved the Armoured Force attempted
period. And yet, such from the realization that the that the US light tanks (and indeed to design a new light tank with
was the speed of technological pre-war designs had reached the light tanks of all countries) better armament, the T7 light tank.
advances and changes in tactics the end of their developmental were unable to withstand enemy However, there was no clear design
that in just a few years this lives. The M3 and M5/M5A1 light anti-tank fire, and their 37mm main goal, and with new requirements,
excellent light tank had been tanks had been a central part of guns were also ineffective against the T7 gradually changed from
bypassed by even more advanced American armoured tactics from most enemy combat vehicles. a light tank to a truly mediocre
designs, just as the late war the 1930s. The light tanks were Light tank losses increased and medium tank weighing well over
F7F Tigercat and F8F Bearcat considered part of a combined crew losses were even worse, as 25 tons, but still inferior to the M4
arrived too late for WWII and were offensive, serving as breakthrough damaged tanks could be rebuilt, Sherman medium tank. By mid-
obsolete just a very few years later. manoeuvring forces and supporting but wounded or killed crews had to 1943, the situation with the M5A1
The M5A1 Stuart was the end model of a pre-war design concept that had This top view of early test M24 shows the completely new concept of the M24 over the M3/M5 family of
served well early in the war but was now well past its prime. This shot shows light tanks. Better integrated sloped armour, a larger three-man turret and wide tracks, and the extra
the relatively high narrow shape and narrow tracks. The added sandbag soft punch of the light-weight 75mm M6 made this new tank a huge leap past previous designs. The exit
armour was very common, as was the Culin hedgerow cutter. hatches for the crew were also much larger, improving access.

The initial M24 production model was very similar to the developmental models, as this The M24 was tested by the British for possible use, but while the British were enthusiastic
view shows. The T72 16” steel tracks provided much better flotation, and to improve about the tank’s capabilities, prior deliveries to US units reduced the number sent to British
armour protection, the lower hull sides were angled as well. The rear-mounted .50 BMG forces from 842 ordered to 302, and they did not appear in frontline units until the spring
proved to be poorly positioned, requiring a crewman to stand on the engine deck to fire of 1945.
forward.
The same M24 tested by the British shows the low yet more substantial silhouette, the torsion bar This M24 of the 740th Tank Battalion attached to the 82nd Airborne Division
suspension, the rear position of the .50 Browning MG and the turret searchlight, nothing at all like the in the Ardennes, seen in January 1945, was one of two that were essentially
preceding M5 series. The new appearance presented a problem of troop identification, since it was so pressed into service after being commandeered from a shipment intended
different from previous types. for another unit.
light tank was critical. M5s were debacle of the T7/M7 medium tank assemblies on each side to the protection.
vulnerable to almost all enemy anti- showed clearly they would have to M5A1’s two-bogie layout. To maintain the 20-ton weight
tank weapons, and the 37mm gun start with a completely new design When the contract for the limit, some armour plates were
was too short-ranged to attack the that would weigh no more than 20 new light tank was released, actually thinner than on the M5A1
anti-tank guns and crews. Some tons and mount a 75mm gun. This Cadillac was able to use much but the armour was sloped at
armoured units used the light task was assigned to the Cadillac of the development work for the better angles and overall armour
tanks to draw fire from enemy AT Division of General Motors. Light Combat Team family, and protection was considered
guns so they could be identified Ordnance gave the company adequate for a light tank used
and destroyed, as the M5s were THE CADILLAC CONNECTION freedom to design the tank with primarily for reconnaissance. The
no longer useful for supporting As it happens, the Cadillac Division little interference as long as it met Armoured Force insisted on a
the medium tanks in the attack. had been working on a family the specifications. Ordnance had three-man turret, and a five-man
The M5s also were unsuited to of related vehicles based on the decided to adopt the Porsche- crew. The T24 pilot models had
support infantry attacks since the design of the M5 light tank. This designed torsion bar suspension only flat hatches in the turret
37mm gun was largely useless for family of vehicles was intended from the Pz.Kpfw. III, and this was roof, but production machines
fire against enemy fortifications or as a number of self-propelled to be used for the new T24 light had a cupola with episcopes for
strong points. carriages for artillery: a 105mm tank. The 75mm gun was not the the tank commander. The cupola
In 1943, Ordnance and the howitzer, a 155mm howitzer and M3 used in the M4 medium tank, was the same type used for the
Armoured Force reluctantly agreed a 40mm anti-aircraft gun. The but the lightweight model used later M4 Sherman turrets, but was
that in the future, light tanks whole group of self-propelled in the B-25G/H Mitchell medium smaller in diameter. Development
should be reserved for purely vehicles was referred to as the bomber. This weapon required a was relatively free of problems
reconnaissance and scouting Light Combat Team. As the M5A1 60-inch turret ring. To provide the and the T24 was standardized as
duties, but that the secondary task chassis was too short and narrow wider hull top for the turret while the M24 light tank in July 1944.
of infantry support still required a to mount these weapons, Cadillac not adding more weight, Cadillac By this time, orders had been
new light tank that could perform had redesigned and widened angled the sides of the T24 hull, placed for some 1,800 M24 tanks.
this duty when required. The the hull and used three bogie which also increased the effective Production began in April 1944, x

This M24 of the 18th Cavalry Reconnaissance Squadron is seen in Belgium in This M24, crossing the Po River near Breda, Italy April 1945, belonged to the 13th Tank Battalion,
February 1945 awaiting inspection during training workup exercises. Note the amount 1st Armoured Division, the only unit in Italy to obtain a large number of these new tanks. Again
of external crew stowage. note the extensive crew soft stowage piled on the vehicle, and the “donkey” sight mount and cage
ahead of the cupola. The “donkey” sight was used for indirect artillery fire on enemy positions.
The .50 BMG has been removed.
An M24 climbs through the mud on the banks of the Rhine river in Germany in the spring 1945. M24s of the 81st Cavalry Reconnaissance Squadron, 1st Armoured Division, seen in
In common with other M24s, this tank has considerable crew stowage externally. There wasn’t northern Italy April 1945, are stopped at a fuel transfer point with a medical supply jeep.
enough room internally to carry all the vehicle equipment and the crew’s stowed items. As the Italian theater had a lower priority, newer equipment went elsewhere first. Most of
the M24s in Italy were in the 1st Armoured Division.
x and Cadillac and Massey-Harris on the turret rear on a short of the Bulge, the M24 picked up a most were intended for 9th Army
built 4,731 M24s by August 1945 tripod stanchion mount, but this popular nickname, “Panther Pup.” in Gen. Omar Bradley’s 12th Army
at the end of wartime contracts. mounting was not popular, as the The British were enthusiastic about Group. As the M24s were moving
Initial M24 production was slowed crew had to operate it mostly from the considerable improvements in up through France, the battle of
by the need to complete M5A1 outside the tank. the M24 over the M5A1, but slow the Bulge broke out, upsetting
production at Cadillac. Massey- With a good power to weight initial production and priority for US the delivery plans and delaying
Harris was added when M24 ratio, the M24 proved to be Army forces reduced the number the deployment of the new tanks.
requirements were increased. manoeuvrable, fast, and having delivered to British units to 302 Two of them were commandeered
To speed development of the excellent grade climbing ability. Top from 842 ordered. The Chaffee by a tank battalion in the 1st
T24/M24, Cadillac used the same speed on roads was 56 km/h (35 didn’t appear in British armoured Army and fought during the entire
basic power train as the M5A1: mph) and cross-country top speed formations until the spring of 1945. Battle of the Bulge on “detached
twin Cadillac V-8 automobile was 40 km/h (25 mph). Operating service.” Because of the M24’s
engines of 150 hp each, although range was somewhat limited at 161 ENTERING US SERVICE unique appearance, similar in
the transmission and radiator km (100 mi). Due to the slower than usual some respects to some Germans
installations were changed. startup of production and the tanks, two M24s were dispatched
The T13E1 75mm/L39 gun was BRITISH EVALUATION usual delays in fielding a brand to acquaint US troops with the
standardized as the M6 75mm, The British received test examples new weapon system, American new tank to reduce friendly fire
and the M24 carried a somewhat and were highly impressed with the units didn’t fare much better. incidents. It was during this
limited ammunition load of 48 T24. It was a revolution compared Relatively few M24s were built period that the M24 picked up its
75mm rounds in wet stowage to the earlier M5 series. Following during the summer of 1944, and nickname of the “Panther Pup.”
bins to lessen the chance of fires. their custom, the British named attempts to ship the first 160 to Although having armour too
There were two .30 Browning light the new tank the Chaffee, after Europe in August 1944 failed due to light to engage enemy tanks, the
machine guns, a bow-mounted Adna R. Chaffee, Jr., the father technical and logistical problems, M24 was considered to be a huge
gun for the co-driver and a coaxial of the Armoured Force in the US so that the first M24s did not improvement over the obsolete
gun in the main gun mount. A Army. In the US Army, the M24 reach the European theatre until M5A1 Stuart, and US light tank
.50 Browning M2HB infantry was usually referred to as the late November/early December. crews welcomed the new tank.
pattern heavy MG was mounted “M24”, though during the Battle Some went to a cavalry group, but Some units began modifying the

This M24 of the 81st Cavalry Reconnaissance Squadron, 1st Armoured Division, enters Another M24, 81st Cavalry Reconnaissance Squadron, 1st Armoured Division, climbs a river
Bologna, Italy in April 1945. Heavy bombing and artillery fighting caused tremendous damage bank in northern Italy 1945. The M24 had excellent cross-country performance and good
to many historic cities in Italy. climbing ability. The turret symbol in white is a bottle of champagne pouring into a glass.
M24s equipped several newer armoured divisions that arrived later in Europe. This M24s parade down Charlottenburg Chausee in Berlin for the Four Nations VJ Day parade, 1945,
M24 of the 20th Armoured Division, was seen near Salzburg, Austria, May 1945. before the Cold War started in earnest.
This is a later production tank, and has the adapters intended for flotation pontoons
installed on the rear plate.
M24 to improve its protection tanks at close range, and on more weight and had better flotation. of reconnaissance and scouting
against mines and others added than one occasion M24s knocked There were some deficiencies, rather than supporting the medium
external attachment points for crew out German tanks in action. As many held in common with all light tanks in the assault, but the 75mm
stowage, as there was little internal the number of German tanks tanks, such as the lack of sufficient gun also added the possibility of
stowage available. decreased, the M24 encounters armour protection to engage supporting infantry advances by
Although production and with them became less common. enemy armour and the vulnerability shelling enemy infantry positions
deliveries of the M24 picked up to anti-tank mines. Internal and especially the anti-tank guns,
later in 1944, many units received IMPROVISATIONS ammunition stowage was limited which had out-ranged the 37mm
only partial replacements and Some units made up local kits to 48 rounds of 75 mm and it was guns on the M5A1. The technical
some light tank battalions had to reinforce the belly armour to not uncommon for M24s to expend advantages of the M24 encouraged
to use the M5A1 through the improve protection from mines, all their 75mm ammunition in just the aggressive and effective use
rest of the European campaign. and many units devised add-on one engagement. Interestingly, of the tank and cavalry units often
Unit experience with the M24 stowage arrangements to carry most of the light tank units felt used them as assault guns in
was generally very favourable. the crew’s personal equipment. that while the thin armour was a infantry actions. The M24’s speed
No one really expected the new Most M24s carried a large amount deficiency, the heavier armour of and cross-country performance
light tank to engage enemy tanks of soft stowage externally. The the M4 Sherman offered little more was quite good and made the
on an equal basis, but the real M24 proved to be a most useful protection against German tank tank much more effective in the
advantages of the new design were tank in the support role, as its guns, and they preferred the much reconnaissance role.
very popular. Though internal crew performance was better in soft better manoeuvrability of the M24. There were several light tank
stowage was limited, the five-man ground than the M4 Sherman. battalions employed in Europe
crew had good accommodations Gunners reported the telescopic CAVALRY MISSION and they were slated to get the
and operating the tank was easier sights for the M6 gun were better If the armoured division light tank new M24 first. One, the 744th
than the old M5. The 75mm M6 than those for the 75mm M3 of battalions had liked the M24, Light Tank Battalion, received a
gun was a vast improvement the Sherman and allowed faster the effect on the beleaguered number of M24s but the others
over the M5’s 37mm gun and was acquisition of targets. The M24 was armoured cavalry groups was even did not, as re-equipping the
extremely useful for engaging more manoeuvrable and climbed more pronounced. The M24 was cavalry groups took precedence.
troop concentrations or fortified grades better than the M4, and was a complete revolution from the A few M24s did reach some of
positions. In a pinch, it also could less likely to get stuck or bogged M5A1 they had been using. The the independent light tank units
take on some medium enemy down as it was only 2/3 of the M4’s cavalry mission had remained one in 1945, but the biggest increase x

The M24 was often used for police and occupation duties as it was light This M24 in Korea, 1950, has the pontoon mounts fitted to all later M24s. The M24 ended up in Korea because
and simple to operate. Here a crew waits with crew weapons – the man its low weight made it suitable for police and occupation duties in Japan, and thus it was the only US tank
in the driver’s hatch has an M1 carbine while the man on the ground available when the North Koreans invaded the South in June 1950. It was completely outclassed as a gun tank
has an M3 “grease gun” SMG. by the T-34/85s used by North Korea.
M24 “Eagle Claw”, of the 3rd Reconnaissance Company. 3rd Infantry Division, These M24s in Korea behind a railroad embankment maintain hull-down positions. The M6 75mm gun
seen near Songdong-bong, Korea, May 1951. Used as a reconnaissance tank or was a good support weapon and since M24s couldn’t fight T-34s, they were used as infantry support
infantry support tank, the M24 performed well when heavier tanks could dispatch tanks in many situations.
the North Korean and Chinese T-34s.
x in M24 deployments came with and disposing of hundreds of perimeter. The M24 proved to be powerful engine, was standardized
the later introduction of new thousands of armoured vehicles, incapable of engaging the North as the M41 light tank and soon
armoured divisions that had been trucks, aircraft and ships. In an Korean T-34/85 medium tanks, began replacing the M24 in regular
created with the M24 as part of attempt to keep costs low, high- and many M24s were lost in tank army armoured units. Within a
their integral table of organization expense equipment was sold as actions. In just five years, the M24 few years the M24 was gone from
and equipment (TO&E). These new surplus and more economical had been overtaken by events. In front-line armoured formations.
units took part in the invasion of weapons were retained. The M24 fact, no light tanks of the period However, it was very popular in
Germany and Austria, and the M24 was ideally suited to policing duties could have fought successfully the state National Guard units as
again proved itself to be a capable in occupied former enemy nations against the T-34. it was inexpensive to operate and
and effective light tank. and was deployed around the As soon as possible, heavier provided an excellent training and
The unexpected end of the war world for this purpose. Among the M26 Pershings and M46 Pattons operational experience for National
in mid-August 1945 meant that the countries where the M24 served were sent to Korea, supplemented Guard tank crews.
M24 did not serve in the Pacific was Japan. The M24 was favoured by M4A3E8 Shermans. In the end
theatre of operations. The US due to its light weight, suitable for it was the Shermans that proved to FOREIGN SERVICE
Marines tested the M24 but did the limited carrying capacity of be the most useful, as the hills in With the downsizing of the US
not adopt it for service. A majority most Japanese road bridges. Korea overtaxed the power trains military and the replacement of
of M24s built, however, had the Regrettably, little thought was of the 45-ton M26 and M46 heavy- the M24 with the improved M41,
attachment points to mount given to its combat capabilities medium tanks. The M24 reverted thousands of M24s became
pontoon flotation equipment for against more modern or heavier to its original function as a light available for supplying America’s
amphibious landings, though these tanks. The invasion of South Korea reconnaissance and scouting tank allies around the world. The largest
were never used for that purpose. by North Korea in June 1950 also suitable for infantry support foreign operator of the M24 was
caused a panic in the west. The as an assault gun, a mission it France, which eventually ended
POST-WAR SERVICE only tanks available to be shipped performed well. up with about 25% of total M24
Following the end of World War to Korea quickly were the M24s But the role of the M24 in the production. While France used the
Two, the United States drew down serving constabulary duties in US Army was at an end. A new M24 at home, the M24 was ideally
its armed forces to a huge extent, Japan. Those that could be spared light tank, developed from the M24 suited to police and constabulary
reducing many services to levels were shipped to the southern end layout but mounting a potent 76mm duties in far-flung French colonies.
near what had existed pre-war of Korea to reinforce the Pusan anti-tank gun and having a more Among these was French Indo-

M24s of New Jersey National Guard in the 1950s stand for parade inspection. The M24 equipped most of the National Guard
light tank units after. WWII and Korea. The tanks were cheap to operate and their light weight caused less damage to roads and
bridges during manoeuvres.
This M24 supports French

troops in the Red River
delta, 1954. The French
liked the M24 and used it
extensively in Indochina.
They usually referred to it
as the “Bison.”
This French M24, seen in Haiphong,

French Indochina in 1954, is typical of the
hundreds of M24s supplied to US allies
after WWII. The French received a very
large number of M24s and deployed them
to a number of colonies and possessions.
china, where the French colonial

authorities were fighting a war
against an insurgent force led by
Ho Chi Minh.
The M24 proved to be an
excellent tank for fighting in the
jungles and swamps of Southeast
Asia. With a good power to weight
ratio and good flotation, the M24
could traverse terrain that bogged
down other vehicles. It also was
reliable and easy to maintain
compared to larger tanks. The
French called the M24 the “Bison”,
and it served through the campaign
against the Viet Minh from the late
1940s to the final French defeat
at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. French
The M24 was widely used in French Indochina, like this example seen in 1954,
Indo-china was broken up and the because its superior flotation made it ideal for use in soft ground, bogs and
coastal Vietnamese portion was rice paddies, as seen here.
divided into north and south, with
the Viet Minh taking over the north
and a Western-backed government
ruling in the south.
M24s were supplied to the new
South Vietnam government and
had the same advantages the
French had appreciated. Many
of the M24s were used in coups
to change governments, when
they were referred to as “voting
machines.” Replaced by the
superior M41 light tank, many
South Vietnamese ended their
service providing airfield defence
at Vietnamese Air Force air bases.
The M24 family continued in During the climactic battle for Indochina at Dien Ben Phu, 1954, these M24s
service in many places, and that is fired on Viet-minh positions surrounding the French positions and fought to
covered in the next part. n the end of hostilities. Eventually most of them were knocked out of action, but
they proved highly resilient and capable of absorbing a good deal of combat
damage while still functioning.

KIT PREVIEW Dragon 1:72 Stug III Ausf. B • Kit No. 7636
Marking options
EARLY STUG
Dragon has brought us a
partially new small scale Stug
III Ausf. B. Graham Tetley
gives it the once over.
F
ollowing on from the initial On the upper hull, we have more the buyer to carve up a part rather CONCLUSION
Stug IIIG first seen in 2007, fine detail with the tools and than them tooling up a correct one This is a straightforward & simple
Dragon have now provided engine screens being particularly themselves. kit, marred only by the need to
us with a ‘new’ Ausf. B well done. Some of the tools look A stand-out for me are the carve up the lower hull. Dragon
variant. The wheels date from a little clunky, but they are more tracks, which come as link and really should have provided a new
2007, but the upper hull parts are than acceptable for the scale. All length parts with a former to bend part for this. The level of detail
on a new sprue as are the tracks. hull hatches are moulded shut and the top run to represent sag. The present is very good to excellent
It differs from the previous Ausf. no figures are included but, if you track pad detail is simply excellent, and fit of parts even better, and
B kit in that we now have link & a skilled with a sharp knife, you and a test fit of the separate links I love the link & length tracks.
length tracks and separate wheels could open them up. reveals that they fit well to the At a UK price of around £18 to
& sprockets. Most annoyingly, with the lower sprocket teeth. They will need a bit £20 between different vendors
Coming in a standard box with hull tub being a common part of care to affix into place, but really including eBay, I do feel that it is
some lovely Ron Volstad artwork (actually, it has the features of the look the part. on the expensive side. I say this
on the top, there are four sprues in Ausf. G), you must perform some A test fit of the upper & lower as we should be provided with a
total comprising 117 plastic parts surgery on it by removing the rear hull, rear plate and turret halves ready-to-go lower hull part in the
of which 18 are unused, a single- hull overhang and front towing reveal no issues at all, in fact the box, but the final choice is down
piece lower hull sections and one points. There are no cutting guides upper & lower hull fit is exceptional. to the buyer.
set of decals. moulded on, just shaded areas The wheels fit to the axles well Overall, I would give it a 7/10. n
First impressions are very good. shown on the instructions, and just and the return rollers – which are
The lower hull is single slide- how the heck you are supposed moulded as one piece – simply Dragon kits are distributed in
moulded part with an excellent to remove the front towing points attach via a small pin. There are the UK by The Hobby Company
level of detail represented, without damaging the transmission no moulding imperfections on my Limited. www.hobbyco.net
although the torsion bars are housing is a mystery to me. Dragon kit at all.
moulded integrally with the hull. drives me up the wall by asking
Link & length tracks Lower hull Upper hull detail
Track link detail Close up of the tools

Available in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series
HOW TO BUILD...
TAMIYA’S ARMOUR KITS IN 1:35
ALSO AVAILABLE
NEW
HOW TO BUILD...
TAMIYA’S 1:48 LOCKHEED P-38 LIGHTNING
Order online at www.doolittlemedia.com or on 01525 222573

BUILD REVIEW Italeri 1:35 M24 Chaffee ‘Korean War’ • Kit No. 6587
THE NAKED
CHAFFEE
Andy King builds the venerable
Italeri 1:35 scale M24 Chaffee with
a little help from the after-market.

I
t’s fair to say that the Italeri
M24 Chaffee has been around
for a long time, in fact it first
appeared in 1986 and up until
2012 it was the only injection-
moulded Chaffee in 1:35 scale. The
model was re-boxed by Tamiya
and Platz but since then we have
had new-tool M24s courtesy of
Bronco and AFV Club.
Italeri re-issued the model to
mark the 50th anniversary of the
Korean War in 2021, but with the
newer kits available you might be
wondering if the Italeri kit is still
relevant today.
With that in mind I decided to do
a build review to see what you can
achieve with a 35-plus year old kit. x

x CLOSE-UP
The first thing was to look at
the parts on the sprues and the
moulding quality is not that bad
although there is some flash
present, mould-pin marks here and
there and sinkage on some parts.
The kit has no interior detail apart
from a basic gun breech and it also
features raised lines where various
stowage items are placed.
The earlier T72E all-metal track
is provided both as one-piece
vinyl and link-and-length and the
latter type is pretty good apart
from the mould-pin marks on the
inner faces however these are
soon removed with the scrape of
a modelling knife. Also provided is
a white metal barrel and a sheet of
clear styrene for the vision blocks.
You have no less than six decal
options ranging from the US Army,
Phillipines, South Korea, Japan,
France and Spain. Decals are
printed by Zanchetti Buccinasco
and appear to be of a very good
quality and in register.
One thing the kit cries out for is
aftermarket parts for which you can
spend a fortune on however for the
purposes of this build I kept it to an
Eduard etch set and replacement
.30 cal machine gun barrels from
Master in Poland.
Various images of the plastic sprues and decal sheet

CONSTRUCTION
On with the build then. It starts
with the lower hull and running
gear and straight away this area
may be a deal breaker for some as
on the Chaffee, the drive sprockets The drive sprockets
and rear idlers feature lightening and rear idlers and
holes and these are missing from the botched attempt
the kit parts. I did attempt to drill at recreating the
out the rectangular slots on the rectangular lightening
holes in the idlers.
rear idlers but I made a complete
mess of them and had to order
replacements from Italeri.
After fixing the suspension in
place and putting the wheels,
sprockets and return rollers
together I opted to fit the link-and-
length track rather than the vinyl
ones. To me they are better detailed
and having experience of this type
of track with the Italeri T-34/85 built
previously, I knew I wouldn’t have
any problems with them.
Starting with one side and the
wheels loosely fitted to the axles,
I glued all the sections of track
together except for the lower
section (part 2E). After 20 minutes
or so the track was placed around
the running gear and when I was
satisfied with the fit, I glued the
lower section (part 2E) into place
then applied glue to where the
wheels touch the track, making
sure it didn’t come apart although
where it did do that I just applied
some superglue.
The process was repeated These three
images show the
for the opposite side and when
link-and-length
completely set (I like to leave a track being fitted.
model overnight for this) the tracks
and wheels were removed as
sub-assemblies which helps make
painting easier later on.
UPPER HULL
The upper hull was glued onto
the lower hull and I took the
opportunity to remove the raised
panel lines from this and the right
side of the hull plus some raised
details from the fenders which were
to be replaced with the Eduard
etch. Another absent feature are
the weld beads on the hull so
these were added using lengths
of heat stretched sprue fixed into
place with superglue then the weld
texture added using a pyrogravure.
You can of course use filler for this
and the weld pattern replicated
with a cocktail stick or the tip of a
modelling knife.
The cast texture was added to
the hull by applying liquid glue than
stippling it, working in sections as
I went.
Various etched details were
then added as per the Eduard
instruction but you really need to
study your references as not all
the details may be relevant to your
model or even in the same place. The removal of the moulded surface detail using a modellers The cast texture is being replicated by applying liquid glue to the plastic
For example the pioneer tools were x chisel. surfaces then stippled with a brush.

x either stored on the right side of

the hull or on the engine deck, jerry
cans and spare track links could be
almost anywhere and on the rear of
the hull there was either a basket
or a shelf fitted for the stowage.
The Eduard set provides both but
the kit only includes the shelf.
Period photographs show that
on the fenders, some Chaffees
had the side panels fitted while
others didn’t and if you wish to
show your model without them
you need to remove the reinforcing
strips moulded on the undersides
and preferably do this before the
fenders are glued into place. I
didn’t and had to very carefully
remove them afterwards without
damaging the model. Note that
the Eduard instructions show the The Eduard etch set includes some really tiny details such as these tie This image shows the two front fender brackets fitted correctly
five fender reinforcing brackets downs. rather than the illustration shown in the Eduard instructions.
facing the same way however the
second ones from the front face
the opposite way.
I ended up replacing all the grab
handles with ones made from fuse
wire but the most fiddly bits were
the etched brush guards for the
headlamps as these were tricky to
work out where exactly the bends
had to be made. You could use the
kit-supplied brush guards but they
really need thinning down as they
are quite chunky.
The air intake on top of the
engine deck needs some detail
added as there are two round
plates fitted on the real vehicle
with grab handles and something
that was missed by Italeri. I added
these with 3mm diameter discs
punched from a sheet of .020 The on-vehicle equipment stowed on the side rather than the The rear stowage basket. Depending on the time frame there was a shelf
thou (0.508mm) plastic sheet with engine deck. To get the shovel to fit over the fender bracket I had to fitted here instead. Also notice the on-vehicle equipment tie-downs on
handles made from fuse wire. extend the shaft by a couple of millimeters. the engine deck, these were removed later on as I had fitted the tools to
the hull side.
“There are newer and better kits out there of the but they
are more expensive so it really depends on your priorities...”
Heat stretched sprue

superglued to the hull
joints then textured
with a pyrogravure.

Working on the kit-supplied
.50cal using etch and drilling
out the cooling holes.
TURRET mounted machine gun support, it as an aftermarket .50 cal but it plus I had fitted the rear stowage
The turret was put together pretty would have been better (and easier did improve the look. I used heat basket but another photo showed
much the same way as the hull and quicker) to just thin down the stretched sprue for the aerials that the shelf was there instead.
with handles made from fuse wire, three support legs instead. The rather than the kit ones and that I did look at the Japanese and
liquid glue for teture and etched .50cal was improved on with the was basically it for the build. South Korean options but again
parts added however instead of addition of etch but also by drilling As a finishing option I quite photographs of the actual vehicles
replacing part 81C I thinned it down out the cooling holes, cutting off the fancied the French Chaffee from showed the later T85E1 tracks with
somewhat before gluing it into barrel and drilling out the muzzle Indo-China circa 1952 but after rubber blocks fitted which are not
place. Plastic rod was added to the end, drilling out the centre where finding photos of the actual vehicle included either so until I can figure
right hatch hinges as these are quite the cooling holes are then inserting it was fitted with a field telephone out which markings I can apply the
prominent on the real vehicle and some rod into it before reattaching on the rear right fender and model remains unpainted at the
while I used the etch for the turret the barrel. Obviously not as good something not included in the kit time of writing. x
The circular plates added on the engine air intake. The two Master .30cal barrels make a big difference to the
appearance of the model and are a worthwhile investment regardless
of which kit you choose.

x CONCLUSION
Going back to the original point as to
whether it’s worth getting well, that’s
up to the reader. There are newer
and better kits out there of the but
they are more expensive so it really
depends on your priorities.
You can find earlier boxings of the
Italeri Chaffee on a well-known auc-
tion site. The tooling is still the same
so the price will be considerably
lower but make sure the kit has the
link-and-length tracks.
For me, it was quite an enjoyable
exercise in making stuff from scratch
plus the Eduard etch and Master
MG barrels didn’t cost that much
and as I have said a few times
now, Italeri kits make
a decent base
that you can
improve on. n
Thanks to The Hobby Company

Limitedfor the review sample
www.hobbyco.net
Kit history via Scalemates

Various images of the built up
model….I might get around to
painting it one day.

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FEATURE ARTICLE Overlord Miniatures 1:48 WWII IJA Type 95 Ha-Go Light Tank • Kit No. 48-0026

HA-GO I
have confession to make. I love
Japanese armor of the Second
World War.
I think this mainly stems from
seeing so many German, American
and Russian armour models in
print over the years. While I still
A GO-GO
build the genre, I always yearn for
something different. I’m kind of
funny that way. On the other hand,
I rarely build a model of the same
tank twice, which limits my choice
of subject.
Ten years ago I built the Dragon
1:35 scale Type 95 and I was
fairly pleased with the result, but
Luke Pitt adds detail to Overlord

I’ve since move down scales as
I enjoy 1:48 scale far more now.
resin
Miniatures’ hybrid 3d printed and
It’s a size and space thing for me.
The problem is that 1:48 scale
o
1:48 scale WWII IJA Type 95 Ha-G
armor is awash with everything but
Japanese subjects. Sure, we have
Light Tank the little scout car from Tamiya and
Hasegawa as well as a few soft
skins from the later Manufacturer
but, none of the more common
mainstream armored types.
Gasoline in France produced a few
but I’ve always had issues with
the resin used on their kits. I find
it so hard and brittle. The recently
released example from Overlord
Miniatures is the complete anthesis
of that. The resin is easy to modify
and work with which, strangely,
motivated me to slightly improve
the base kit.
The Japanese Type 95 Ha-Go
light tank entered service in 1935
and was designed by Mitsubishi
heavy industries. The tank had
6-12mm armour with a weight of
16,800 lbs and a crew of three. The
engine was of an advanced air-
cooled diesel design, producing 110
hp which when pressed, produced
a top speed of 40kph. The one-man
turret mounted a 37mm cannon
together with a 7.7 machine gun.
Another 7.7 machine gun was
mounted in the left front bow.
By all accounts the tank proved
popular with crews and troops
alike. According to US field
reports, however, one of the major
faults of the type 95 was engine
noise. Simply put, the tank could
be heard from miles off, giving
opposing troops ample warning to
take appropriate measures.
One Australian report noted an
approaching soldier could simply
jam his bayonet or water bottle into
the turret race to stop it rotating!
Nevertheless, the Type 95 was
used in action from its introduction
in China in 1936 right through to
the last battle of World War II with
the Russian invasion of the Kuril
Islands in 1945. The French used
the type in Vietnam as did the
Chinese after the war. x

THE OVERLORD MINIATURES KIT

x Overlord Miniatures is a relatively arrangements are included, one Assembly was a breeze, and
new outfit. They firstly 3d print, being the standard arrangement you could possibly build this in and
then clean them up then cast the and the other the Manchurian afternoon and have it paint ready
parts. The results are amazing as model which was inverted and had for the following day.
there are virtually no print lines in the addition of small wheels fitted I’m impressed with this model
evidence anywhere. to the bell-crank axis. for a few reasons. Firstly, it is
The kit is broken down in to The model is a clever design well thought out and secondly,
an upper and lower hulls, Track with upper and lower hulls almost it’s different and the resin is
and running gear, turret with clicking together. This one would user friendly, softish and easily The kit comes in a plain cardboard box
the commanders hatch open. be a good starter kit for anyone workable. If you purchase this one with a cad cam illustration on the box.
Two types of bogie suspension new to or afraid of resin models. you won’t be disappointed.
The upper hull is supplied in one-piece.

It is smooth and detailed, devoid of any The lower hull is provided as one-piece tub with fine The turret is perfectly
visible print lines. detail in both the sides and lower hull. formed and has the correct
dimensions as well as an
open cupola.
Left and right track and running gear assemblies are provided as one piece each. Looking closely
at my reference sources indicated several flaws on these. The first is the oversize road wheel
bolts. The second is that the rear idler is the wrong shape and the third is the front drive sprocket
is cast as a single block and the inner retaining strips on the front hub are a tad too thick. The
final issue is that the track guide horns are solid when they should be hollow in the centre. Now
most of these perceived accuracy problems are not overly hard to fix and that in is down to the
resin being used by the manufacturer whether by design or pure luck the resin is easily workable
it makes correcting these perceived mistakes and yes I’m using the word perceived here as I
have seen this model built straight from the box and it still looks great, I simply correct stuff like
this because I enjoy it and consider it fun, and that’s what its all about really
The upper and lower hulls almost click together and the tracks just plug into the assembly. The other thing that struck men with this kit is if you’re building it straight from
the box you could assemble the entire tank and have it paint ready in an hour or so. Even with my improvements, this build was the quickest I’ve done in living memory.
Looking at this you will note the track guards are a little too thick in profile which leads us into the build segment as this was the first area I addressed on this build.

GETTING STARTED
The build was relatively pain free. The
engineering of the parts is almost flawless,
and they go together with little or no filler at
all. This is a major achievement as riveted
hulls are very much prone to gaps on the
mating surfaces. This is the tool in
The instructions aren’t included in the kit question. It is marketed
under many different
but downloaded via a box top code. names but is essentially
It’s also worth mentioning a product that the same tool and is well
I noticed on a Facebook ad that popped worth checking out as
up. Now I’m not the biggest fan of product its is a great time.
placements within build articles but in this
instance this tool looked interesting, and
besides my trusty flexible shaft drill had
The first step was to grind the overly thick track guards to
recently given up the ghost. The thing I a third of their original thickness. This was easy to do for
really like about this product is it is almost two reasons, The resin used in the kit is softish and easily
pen size and easily fits into the palm of workable and secondly the grinding tool has multiple
your hand. The second is that the speeds grinding speeds which in tun allows you to have a greater
are perfectly suited for both plastic and flexibility in the way you approach the grinding and the
finesse of the grinding. In this photo I have ground the left
resin with no melting of either media. When side and have moved on to the Front right guard
I received mine I showed it to our Editor,
and he promptly purchased two! x
I moved on to the front drive sprocket.

The sprocket is solid in the centre
and I wanted it to give the impression
of depth. To achieve this I simply
separated the track from the sprocket.
The second step was to hollow out the guide horns. The top assembly has had this done while the bottom assembly
is how the assembly is supplied in the kit. To achieve the hollowed-out guide horns I simply drilled a small hole at
the base where it meets the of the track link and then used a sharp excel knife blade to hollow out the rest. It sounds
harder than it looks. The resin used on the kit made the process quite simple as it is soft and easily workable
The next step was a little more tricky
The retaining bolts on inner ring of the
road wheel were far too pronounced and
looking at my references sources should
be almost flush with the inner ring it was
a shame really, a s the kit had beautifully
rendered retaining wires between the
bolts, it bothered me so, I cut off the top
portion of the bolt and set them aside and
removed the rest of the detail in the inner
ring with a micro chisel and sanded it
smooth to the inner ring.
I then reattached the saved bolt

heads to the inner ring with the
I proceeded to hollow out
aid of Testors Liquid glue which
the drive sprocket with the
strangely works on this resin.
previously mentioned tool.
The last step on the To alleviate this somewhat I went to my spare

track assembly was parts stash. Now most of you know who have
to modify the rear read my articles will know that I keep almost
idler. According to my anything from past builds as something always
references this stood comes in handy. Well, at the bottom of my road
out as an omission wheel container were two road wheels from a
in the kit. The outer 1:76 Hetzer that I must have made as a kid. I only
ring seemed too know that because they were painted in gloss
thick and the inner black and bright red! They seemed to have the
section not domed right diameter so I filed and sanded them back,
enough and set too drilled the lighting holes and added some hub
deep within the idler. detail from plastic card and rod to deliver a better
This rear view of representation of the rear idler shape in my own. I
the unmodified part also noted from my references that the track pins
illustrates the kit- were recessed so I drilled out all the outer facing
supplied piece. pins to give them a more prominent look.

The muffler guard is provided as a solid one-piece affair and I

wanted to improve this somewhat. I searched in my photo-etch
stash and found a mesh that seemed to fit the bill. It was taken
from the Hauler Standoff Amour for the Tamiya IS-2, Item No.
HLX48330. It seems that they were never used on that type, so
I cut it up to produce what you see here. I firstly cut a piece
from the fret, heated it over a naked flame to make the etch
more malleable in the bending process and then bent it around
a suitable round profile in this case a paint brush handle. When
I was happy with the shape I super glued thin pieces of 10 thou
plastic strip on the etch and added a 10 thou base to the etch to
give it some sort of rigidity and glued it on the kits rear fender.
It was then blended it in with a slurry mix of Tamiya putty and
Testors liquid glue. It sounds hard but it’s not.
The inner bogie arms were then attached to the

lower hull and new centres of the inner arms
inserted with round plastic rod. As the kits inner
centres are square where they should be round
5 thou plastic mud flaps were also added to the
lower front portions of mud guards as well.
Small bolt heads were added to the top

portions of the new round bogie arm centres
and the rear toolbox was moved slightly
rearward to accommodate the figure.
As an aid to the
painting process I
elected to reproduce
the muffler as a
separate piece. I cut
off the rear portion of
the kit supplied item
and attached it to a
round piece of plastic
rod. The painted part
was then simply slid
into the muffler guard
when painted on the
final assembly.
The outer bogie arms were

thinned on the outer edges
to achieve a more in-scale
appearance.
I wanted a bit of stowage on the

vehicle so I cobbled together a few
pieces from the Value Gear range.

THE BATTLE OF SLIM RIVER -
TELLING A STORY WITH FIGURES
x I guess one of the faults of most kit is the lack Kula Lumpur.
of a suitable figure. I like to include a figure or I had recently read Mark Stille’s book in
figures in all of my builds as they give a sense the Osprey series on the fall of Malaya and
of scale. The problem is compounded by the Singapore (ISBN 978-1-4728-1122-6), in which
lack of Japanese figures in 1:48 scale. he recounts the battle of Slim River. In what one
Hasegawa has some outstanding figures in historian has described as the greatest use of
plastic in their line of Japanese airfield truck Japanese Armor to achieve a strategic goal in
releases but none of them really suited what I the Second World War. A force of 30 Japanese
wanted to do with this build. tanks went on a rampage for a six-hour period The figures chosen for this little story were
I wanted to convey a little story about how destroying the better part of two Allied brigades from Gaso.Line and are sculpts from Manel
the Japanese found unused but passable loop and taking 3000 prisoners. x Arin, whose work I admire greatly.
roads to press home their relentless attack in
The gesturing When the figure was

Commander figure refined, I coated it with
shown here in his a mist coat of Tamiya
raw state is a slightly Fine surface Primer,
modified figure from as it tends to bring out
the central figure in the any faults before the
previous photo with painting process.
the addition of a Mike
Good head and legs
from his old Jaguar
1:48 scale figure set The tank Commander
item Gd48-003. was done in the same
way. This is a slight
modification of the Gaso.
Line figure with a head
from the Figures with
Attitude range fitted into
the Gaso.Line’s figures
tank head gear and the
lower arms moved slightly.
ADDING A BIT OF BLING IS AWAYS A GOOD THING

Adding anything to a model The whole
can not only draw the casual assembly was
observer to the model but painted red and
let them discover something then the red and
surprising. It can be anything the disk masked
off and then over
really, from the often-used painted white.
bucket, to stowage, to a
particular paint method. The key
here is to putting your individual
Decals were then
stamp on your models. It all added to produce
comes down to the particular the Japanese
style that you like and the way I’ve seen countless pictures of Japanese script and then
that you present it. Tanks with Flags on the back of their flat coated with
Tanks, and it is something that can be the toothpick
easily replicated in miniature. This for portion painted
example is nothing more than a filed in brown
toothpick and a thin piece of Brass foil
The foliage is 1:72 scale

photo etch produced by
Scale Link from the UK. I
first primed the surface and
then sprayed the entire fret
green. I then highlighted
all the branches in an earth
brown mix. The addition of
this was simply because I
had some left over my 1:48
scale Elefant build from a
few months ago. The branches were
cut from the fret and
bent into shape in
small sections.

WALK AROUND
BEFORE PAINTING
x This was one of my fastest
builds I have done for a good
number of years and is in part
the way the kit is designed. This
would be the ideal starter kit
for anyone afraid of resin kits. It
is not hard to put together and
anyone could build it well. x
The model is presented

here in its final form before
paint. It is always important
to clean the surface of any
model before paint.
Both machine guns in the hull

and the cannon were drilled
out slightly to give the model a
better appearance before paint.
Various subtle improvements to the
model can be seen from this angle
from the stowage to the improved
muffler guard down to round bogie
spacers. The hollowed out guide
horns on the track links too.
I wanted to tell a story with these figures. They are minor conversions of the Gaso.Line figures The front headlights were drilled oy to accommodate MV lenses that I had in my stash that
mentioned before. It was a little tricky to position the gesturing figure on the side so much, were of the appropriate size. The transmission handles were also replaced with plastic rod
so I had to move the toolbox mounted on the track guard back slightly to accommodate right files and glued into T-shapes.
boot. It’s not entirely accurate I know but it served a purpose

These are the MV
Lens that I used on
this model. They were
added last, flat coated
and attached with
white glue.
The rear tools are cast as part of

the rear fender and as such needed
to be given the impression of being
clamped on to the tank not part of
it. I achieved this with the aid of a
micro chisel undercutting the handle
and spade head portions
Value Gear makes some wonderful stowage pieces that can be adapted for any purpose. I’ve The muffler was made removable for ease of painting. It was achieved via a small brass pin.
mixed and matched some items from their range to suit the rear stowage I wanted to achieve.
Their range is a great time saver
Here are all the major components

ready for the paint booth. I generally
do this with all of my builds as I’m
not the greatest fan of the painting
process. There are so many ways
it can and does go horribly wrong.
I often paint parts separately to
avoid stripping the paint on the
entire model For this model I did not
have to resort to that, as the paint
application went by the numbers
and was achieved in one application
which is very rare for me.

HAND PAINTING - IT’S EASIER THAN IT LOOKS

x I came into this model with a fair bit doesn’t necessarily work on multi-
of experience in painting Japanese coloured hard edge schemes as it
Tank colours having painted no less is just too subtle. I hand paint hard Painting started with
than three tanks in variations of this edge camouflage because I enjoy Tamiya NATO black
scheme all admittedly however in 1:35 it. It takes me back to when I was a on the turret and then
scale.but never in 1:48 scale. Here are kid, but more importantly, I just hate the base of the open
cupola was masked
a few lessons I learn along the way. masking. One of the downsides is off interior.
The first is yellow is a very tricky that under high magnification you will
colour to hand paint. I avoided that inevitability see brush strokes. One
mistake this time and airbrushed it as way to alleviate this is to topcoat with
a second coat after the base coat was Tamiya Clear via an airbrush. Not only
applied. does it fill in the fine ridges of both
The second lesson was that the the paint and fine print ridges on 3d
forced shadow method see my article printed models, it serves as a great
on the T-72 I did a few months ago base for decals. x
I did the same with the hull by painting NATO Black as a base and then over spraying it The running gear was tacked next with the same method and colour combinations leaving the
with a mix of Tamiya Khaki XF-49 and Flat Earth XF-52. track links in the base colour of NATO Black XF-69.
The turret was mounted on a

dollar-store post it note clamp.
The net step was to airbrush
various lines of Tamiya Flat
Yellow XF-3 for the second
camouflage colour. This was
done freehand as with my
previous 1:35 scale builds. Green Vallejo 823 and Brown Vallejo 859 camouflage was applied by brush with Vallejo Thinner 524 in several coats. To give
I found it almost impossible it even colour density I coated the entire model with Tamiya Clear X-22 which resulted in a very fine glossy smooth finish.
paint yellow without it being The model in this state looks pretty awful but the Clear serves two important purposes. Firstly it smooths over the fine
horribly thick and messy even brush strokes that appear under high magnification and secondly it fills in those almost impossible to see print lines that
with multiple thin coats. occur in 3d Printed models. Another benefit is it also serves as a great base for decal application.
I then added the decals and coated

the model once again with Tamiya
Clear to seal the decals. The next
step was to flat coat the entire model
with a mix of 50 percent Vallejo Matt
Varnish 518 and 50 percent tap water
mix to produce a dead flat finish.

Next I added the track assemblies. The same mix was misted in thin and deliberate coats with most on the running gear and less toward the top. The tracks were mist coated with a mix of 90
percent thinner and 10 percent Tamiya Flat Black. The next step was to apply small amounts of mud from the Tamiya Mud Weathering Stick to the centre of each track link with a toothpick
and a little on the back. I then hand painted the rubber portion of the road wheels and attached the tracks. The entire lower hull was then given an oil wash with firstly Burnt Umber and then
Lamp Black. I used Zippo lighter fluid as a mixing agent as it dries fast and more or less flat. The road wheels were lightly dry brushed with a mix of Humbrol White and Wood Brown with a
greater leaning toward white. When this was done, a very thin glaze of straight Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow in a mix of 10 percent paint 90 percent thinner was applied to the lower stages hull.
This glaze can be controlled and is most effective for taking the hard edge off the dry-brushing. Next was chipping. My main aim here was to be subtle and have all the chips in scale. The last
step was highlighting the track ground contact points with a Faber Castell Metallic Silver pen.
All of the separately painted pieces were

added to the model. I had some leftover
pieces of foliage from my 1:48 scale
Elefant build from a few months ago
and decided to add those as well.

A WALK AROUND THE The foliage was also coated
COMPLETED MODEL
x In this series of photos, I’ll briefly
with an oil wash, mainly on
the stems of the branches.
describe the various weathering

methods employed on the model. x
In this overall view the main weathering methods were oil washes
and in this case a combination of Raw Senna, Burnt Umber and
Van Dyke brown were applied separately mixed with low odour
Turps. I generally do small sections at a time by firstly coating the
area via a brush with Turps and then applying a diluted mix of the
desired oil pant and turps mix with a fine brush.
The stowage was assembled

from the Value Gear range
and painted separately before
adding to the rear of the
vehicle in final assembly.
The muffler was painted

with the rust sets from
Lifecolor. Comprising four
paints, they are almost
bullet proof in their
application and produce
wonderful results right
out of the bottle.

The engine deck louvres were
oil washed with Burnt Umber,
allowed to dry and then
followed up with a straight
Black oil wash.
All the decals were sourced from

Hasegawa and are included in
their range of 1:48 scale Airfield
Trucks available in 1:48 scale.
The track contact points

were highlighted with a
Faber Castell Metallics
Pen purchased from an
office supply store.

The figures were painted with a combination of the Andrea Color Flesh set for the faces and The lower hull was mist coated with Tamiya Sand to reproduce dust and then small scratch
Vallejo for the uniforms. marks added with a diluted mix of Burnt Umber via a OOO brush.
In this front view the little MV lenses are show to good advantage.
The mesh muffler guard was oil washed within the outside framework. The Japanese script The flag was attached to the rear of the vehicle with super glue.
was sourced from the previously mentioned Hasegawa kits in 1:48 scale. The Japanese
script was hand painted on the box on the rear of the vehicle.
I’m always a huge fan

of the side profile photo
and in this view all the
weathering elements
seem to come together.

THE DUST
BUSTER
x As I build a model I also build a
wooden dust cover. I do this for
a number of reasons. The first
and most important is to keep the
finished piece free of dust and as The first step in this process is to figure out how to display the I then trim the outside edge in wood-stained long Paddle Pop sticks
my models are extremely fragile. n model, I generally have mine on a black base with a yellow border that you often see in two-dollar shops to form a dam of sorts and
and lettering. I design these on my home computer and in the past pour a two-part epoxy coating on top of the base to form a mirror
have just printed them out but recently I’ve found I just can’t get a like base.
“I love proper black background. There is a local printer that I now use for
the princely sum of $3.00 for a series of six name plates. I then glue
Japanese the paper plate to foamboard.
armour of the I won’t go into the details of construction of the Perspex cover and base
plinth in this article as they are just cutting the materials with a drop saw
and using materials found in a local hardware store like picture frame
Second World moulding, flat Perspex sheet, wood stain, wood filler and wood glue. All
I can say here is, if you can make a model you can make these. None of
War...” this is rocket science for people with our skill set.
Modelspec
Overlord Miniatures 1:48 WWII IJA Type 95 Ha-Go
Light Tank Kit No. 48-0026
Weathering Materials
- Tamiya Weathering stick item 87081
- Deco Art Light Earth Stucco asto4
- Zippo Lighter Fluid
- Windsor and Newton Burnt Umber
- Windsor and Newton Lamp Black
Tools Used
- Waldron Sub-Miniature Punch and Die Set
- Small Shop Brass Assist Roller set Mk Mc
- Small Shop Hold and Fold
- G-Tool
- Jo Sonjas Brush /Soap and Conditioner
Paints Used
- Tamiya XF-49 Khaki
- Tamiya XF-2 White The Dust Buster is now
- Tamiya XF-1 Black complete and fits nicely on
- Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth a standard bookcase shelf.
- Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow
- Gunze Gloss Yellow FS 13538
- Humbrol Grey Met 53
- Humbrol Matt White 34
- Humbrol Wood Brown 62
- Vallejo Brown 872
- Vallejo Red 031
- Vallejo Green 968
- Vallejo Miltary Green 975
- Vallejo Matt Varnish 520
- Vallejo Diluant Thinner
References
- Ground Power 1996 Japanese Combat Vehicles
of WWII
- Osprey Publishing Japanese Tanks 1939-45
ISBN 978-1-84603-091-8
- Osprey Publishing The fall Of Malaya and
Singapore ISBN 978-1-4728-1122-6
- Ground Power Aug 2009 ISBN
4910135010897
- Osprey Publishing the Japanese Army 1942-45
ISBN 1-84176-354-3
- Imperial Japanese Army and Navy Uniforms
and Equipment ISBN 4-87090-000-2
- Concord Publications Tank Battles of the
Pacific War 1941-1945 Isbn 962-361-607-4
- Concord Publications Warriors of Imperial
Japan Isbn 962-361-171-4
- Tank Power Vol s 2, 4 and 5 by AJ press

KIT PREVIEW Dragon 1:35 Pz.Bef.Wg Panther w/ Zimmerit • Kit No. 6965 ‘39-’45 series
3D printed parts are included.
The turret shell.
Magic tracks – individual links.
Andy King is pleased Cast texture on the mantlet.

to see the return of
individual Magic Track
links on Dragon’s
1:35 scale Pz.Bef.Wg
Panther with Zimmerit.
MAGIC TRACK REDUX Nice road wheel detail.
T
he Pz.Bef.Wg (Panzer Befehl Wagen) Panther rod but unfortunately the instructions give no clue as
is a command version of the Panther D that to how the etched star actually unfolds. My best guess
Dragon re-released in 2021 and only differs from would be to remove the star from the fret it comes on,
the standard tank with the inclusion of fittings roll it around a fine drill bit then bend the five antenna
for the extra aerials associated with command vehicles. strips outward. Personally I would replace the whole
The kit itself actually dates from the early 2000s and assembly with plastic rod anyway as the five strips
has appeared in various forms ever since. In the box were round in profile and not flat.
you get sixteen sprues moulded in grey polystyrene, As I mentioned above there are four 3D printed Subtle Zimmerit texture on the rear hull plate.
one clear sprue for all the periscopes, two small sheets parts included, two are for the drive sprocket hubs
of etched metal, one of which includes the mesh (parts RP1), one is a plug that fits in the gun mantlet
grenade screens for the air intakes on the engine deck, (RP2) and the other is the star antenna base on the
a length of chain for the pistol ports on the turret, metal engine deck (RP3).
side skirts and a decal sheet. Painting options are given for four vehicles; one
Also included this time around are some 3D printed in overall ‘dunkelgelb’ or dark yellow while the other
parts and thankfully (for this reviewer anyway) the three are dark yellow with a green disruptive pattern
individual ‘Magic’ track links are back, gone are the DS over the top. All options are from unidentified units,
Zimmerit looks good.
Vinyl rubber band things. As usual moulding quality the closest you get to a time frame is the overall dark
is very good with little to no flash on parts and the yellow Panther that was in Italy during 1944. Decals are
detail is excellent although be advised that the track printed by Cartograf and look to be very good quality.
links have two raised mould-pin marks in the centre. Recent years have seen newer kits of Panthers
The Zimmerit texture is very well done and the pattern from the likes of Takom, Meng and Rye Field Models,
is one found on Panthers built in the Demag factory. some of which include full interiors so price-wise
I have to say that Dragons first attempts at moulded they give the Dragon Panthers a real run for their
on Zimmerit were pretty over done but since then their money. However I feel this kit (and others in the
technique was very much refined and will be hard re-tooled Panther family) are still up there quality-wise
to beat doing it yourself with putty and rollers. No regardless of age as Dragon did WW2 German armour
interior detail is included and the main gun is in two very well, it all depends what you want from a kit as
halves (before Dragon perfected their slide-moulding some folk can’t be bothered with full interiors while
technology) so care will be needed during clean-up others love them.
to avoid ‘flat spots’. As is usual with Dragon kits you On a personal level I’m very glad to see that
get a lot of parts included that are marked as not for Dragon are starting to re-introduce the ‘Magic Track’ The kit’s photo-etched fret.
use, some of which include the original torsion rod individual links again as I never did like the DS Vinyl
suspension so if you want to set your model on an stuff, however I still think they should still be included
uneven diorama base these would be useful. as some modellers hate individual links so having
Looking through the instruction and these are still both types included would satisfy everybody - or so
the photographic type, the reproduction of which is I’d like to think.
not brilliant as it is not clear where some parts go. Line Highly recommended! n
drawings would be far better and clearer.
The star antenna included for the rear engine deck Many thanks to The Hobby Company for the review
comes as an etched part that goes on top of the aerial sample www.hobbyco.net
Markings are supplied for three vehicles.
NEW from the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series
How to Build...
TAMIYA’S 1:48 LOCKHEED P-38F/G
LIGHTNING
By Marcus Nicholls
The Lockheed P-38 Lightning is an iconic US fighter from the Second World War.
Its twin Allison V12 engines were mounted in booms to free-up the nose so it
could house a fearsome array of four M2 Browning machine guns and a 20mm
cannon. The twin-boom airframe became a sight feared by enemies wherever it
served, with good reason.
In 2019, after several years of painstaking research, Tamiya released an all-new
kit of this sleek aircraft and it has taken its place proudly in the 1:48 Aircraft Series
as No.120 in the range.
In this new ‘How To Build’ book, Tamiya Model Magazine’s Editor, Marcus
Nicholls, presents no less than four built-up examples of Tamiya’s fantastic
model; one Lightning each from Brett Green and Spencer Pollard, plus two from
Marcus Nicholls.
The second of Marcus’s models incorporates resin and photo-etched super-detail
sets from Eduard, showing how they can be used within the build to take the
detail to an even higher level. New photos of the other models show how Brett
Green and Spencer Pollard built and painted the models in their own styles.
The book includes four complete builds, covering the following topics:
n Adding photo-etched parts
NOW IN
n Using resin upgrade components
n Extending the nose undercarriage leg
n Upgrading the cockpit detail
n Weathering the airframe
n Alternative decal sets Only
£15.95
plus p&p
STOCK
Also available
Order online at www.doolittlemedia.com or on 01525 222573

FEATURE ARTICLE Takom BLITZ 1:35 StuH 42 & StuG III Ausf. G • Kit| No. 8009
THE
SOLDIER’S
FRIEND
Clayton Ockerby adds detail,
stowage and a crew figure to
Takom’s 1:35 StuH 42.
A
lthough the big boys
like Panthers and Tigers
seem to get all the
attention and glory, the
Sturmgeschutz could make a
credible claim for being one of
the most important vehicles of the
Second World War. Inexpensive
and easily manufactured, the Stug
was adaptable and through sheer
numbers proved to be a valuable
asset for the German military.
Despite this, I have to admit that
I haven’t ever built a StuG in my
favoured scale of 1:35, so when I
saw the latest Takom release of the
StuH my interest was aroused, and
things were about to change.
The release is one of their
“BLITZ” kits, which generally means
no interior and a simplified build.
I have had nothing but favourable
experiences with this range so
adding this release to the build
schedule was a very easy decision.
Affordable with excellent detail as
well as etch skirts and metal barrel
options - what else could we ask for
straight from the box! x

x The version in the kit is the

Sturmhaubitze or StuH. Designed
in 1941, the StuH was a version Tracks were painted while
of the StuG assault gun mounted still on the sprues.
with a 105mm howitzer. Its main
role was seen to be that of infantry
support, and it was thought that its
powerful gun would be the perfect
bunker buster. However, by the
time the StuH was introduced into
service the standard StuG had
up-gunned significantly leaving the
StuH to provide more of an infantry
support role.
In March of 1942, the Alkett
production plant mounted an
experimental le.FH.18 Howitzer in
the chassis of a StuG III Ausf
E, and nine vehicles had
been readied for combat
by October that year.
The initial run saw action The hull section is beautifully
detailed out of the box. The swing
south of Leningrad in late
arms and suspension components
November. are attached in place.
Encouraged by the
performance of the initial nine
vehicles, Hitler set a production The return rollers are now attached in
target of 24 StuH per month. By place and the rear elements of the vehicle
the end of 1943 an additional such as the towing bracket, exhaust pipes
204 vehicles were completed. and track tensioning bolts are attached.
Production then escalated to a
point where at least 100 StuHs
were being produced per month.
The only major difference
between the StuG and the StuH
was the gun and the way it was The wheels are a two-piece construction
mounted. The larger gun meant and are assembled in a short amount of
time. The parts are initially sprayed with
the range suffered somewhat with
German Grey to simulate the rubber of the
the elevation of the gun being from wheel and then a mask is used to spray
-6 degrees to +20 degrees. The in the coloured section. It is a fast and
guns ideal elevation was actually efficient way to paint your wheels. They
+45 degrees, so the limitations were then set aside to dry
when fitted to the StuG meant the
weapon could never truly meet its
full potential.
The StuH performed best
when it played a defensive role.
Interestingly the barrel was initially
delivered with a muzzle break but
this was later deemed unecessary
and removed in order to reduce the
cost of production.
The pre-painted wheels and

track sections are fitted to
the hull. The track length
and fit were perfect and quite
satisfying. The sag in the top
run of the track looked realistic
and was more than adequate
for an out of the box solution.
The hull section in now painted Dark Yellow from

Tamiya. Again, this won’t be the final coat, but it will
provide coverage for the hard to get to places around
the wheels and tracks once the model is assembled.

Construction moves to the top deck and is reasonably simple
however there are a number of small parts such as the brackets Further details are added around the section. The
for the track guard rails and the rear light. The texturing in the instructions call out for several small holes to be drilled
guards is subtle and beautiful as are the weld beads and bolt in the guard rails to house various tools and hardware. I
heads. This range of Stug IIIs from Takom really have taken purchased a set of small drill bits a couple of months ago,
things to another level. and it was some of the best money I’ve spent in the hobby.
A good, sharp micro-drill set is such a handy tool.
The signature intakes on the Panzer III

chassis are instantly recognisable. The
kit comes with the mesh screens to
enhance the part. The brackets that will
hold the spaced armour or ‘Schürzen’
are also set in place.
So many tools they could open a hardware store! The detail Construction continued on the left-hand side of the vehicle. The assembly for the casemate is attached. Fit was excellent
on the jack is another highlight of these recent release Takom I chose to include only one spare wheel on the engine deck and as mentioned previously, the detail in the weld beads and
kits and is worth a mention. I often pre-paint the jack. because the plan was to load it up with stowage so often seen the bolt heads is just gorgeous.
in reference images.
ASSEMBLY
Spraying the track links whilst on
the sprues is a hack that I have
been doing for some time now.
Whilst the colour won’t be the final
layer it sets the foundations and
speeds up the painting process
once assembled. Glue and paint
don’t mix, but for the purpose of
the tracks this is an acceptable
compromise to save the frustration
of painting them down the road. A The two halves are
mix of German Grey, Red Brown now glued in place
and those aggressive
and black are used to get the iron lines of the StuH start
colour of the tracks. x to take shape.
The kit comes with photoetch to create the stowage rack at the rear of the vehicle. My One of the unique things about the StuH 42 was the 105mm howitzer it carried. The early
understanding is that the rack was a field modification and many incarnations may be seen in versions of the barrel included a muzzle brake but that was later discarded. I personally think
historical photographs. The vehicle I was building called out of the rack, so I set about fixing the sans-muzzle brake barrel is far more attractive, hence I was drawn to this kit. The boxing
it to the model using super glue. includes a turned aluminium piece.

The roof and cupola are assembled. The machine gun

is a stunning representation and a worthy inclusion.
The machine gun and the hatches have been dry fit
and will be removed when it comes time to paint.
The side skirts are supplied as metal parts. The

brackets are glued in place using super glue. The
sections are manually hung on the brackets to test
fit and will be removable so they can be painted.
Whilst some of the sections didn’t appear to sit on the model

properly, I suspect once they are painted and reset on the model
a couple of drops of CA glue will tighten everything up.
The side armour is removed and the track sections on the model are ‘masked’ using
aluminium foil. The model is primed in Mr Surfacer 1000. The paint was first decanted
and sprayed through the airbrush.
Now on to the stowage. I don’t know why but adding stowage to my models
is a step I always find a bit intimidating. There is a balance between making
something interesting and presenting something plausible, and then you must
factor in what you have available to you…and then there is the painting. I have
ordered a value gear set for this model, but the fit wasn’t very good (in fairness
it wasn’t designed for this kit), so I picked a few of the pieces out of the kit
and combined to with other elements I found in the spares box. The tarps were
sculped using Green Stuff sculpting putty. By combining the hard elements
(boxes and jerry cans etc) with the soft elements (tarps) you can create a bed for The stowage elements were painted in
the stowage and make everything look settled. Your elements must look like they flat Black to create a base to paint on.
have weight. A sculpted tarp is a great way to create that effect. Whilst the black was in the airbrush and
basic pre-shade was applied to provide
some visual interest to the subsequent
layers of colour.

The base colour was
created using a mix of The side armour was again hung in place with
Dark Yellow and white. a small piece of tape applied to the rear to hold
The paintwork was built them in place. Because the skirts overlap, I
up in light coats so as wanted to ensure the camouflage pattern was
not to lose the shading interrupted where the overlay would be. Once
form the previous in place, the pattern was applied following the
step. Highlights were instructions as best I could. A lightened version
applied using the white of AK Real Colour Green was used for the
to gradually lighten the Olivgrun, and Tamiya Red Brown was used for
dark yellow mix. Note the second colour in the camouflage scheme.
the subtle shading can
still be seen through the It was inevitable that once the camouflage
yellow creating some scheme was applied some of those lovely pre-
interesting tones. shade tones would be lost. I guess that is the
point of camouflage, right? It is a visual pattern
design to interrupt the shape of the vehicle. To
try and get some depth back to the paintwork,
a thinned mix of Red Brown 2 and black was
sprayed around recesses and panel lines.
Painting the stowage was the next step in the process and was It was time to start creating some mud and earth effects on the Natural debris and scatter was placed around the model’s
done using a mix of Vallejo and AK Gen 3 acrylics. lower side of the tank. The ‘volume’ of the mud was created horizontal surfaces and set in place using VMS Sand and
using AK Dark Earth. The product was stippled on using an old Ballast Freeze.
brush and tap water.
Subtle chipping was applied

around the model using a mixture
of Vallejo Acrylics applied by
dabbing them on using a piece
of sponge. Chipping a model is
one of those effects than can be
very easily overdone, so restraint
must be shown at this stage.

x CONCLUSION The earth effects were then softened by

I have for the most part been airbrushing a dusty colour to reduce the contrast
impressed with the Takom’s kits. of the dark earth and the yellow of the model.
Granted, there have been a few Once dry the effect was enhanced using a mix
of earth toned enamels. Most of this effect was
glitches along the way, but I can achieved by flicking the product at the lower
say with confidence that this edges of the running gear using an old, flat brush.
StuH is easily one of the most
enjoyable kits I have made. In fact,
now I think about it I was equally
impressed with the Panzer Is that
they released prior to this.
The ‘Blitz’ label does not
suggest any compromise with this
kit. It’s a ripper. Obviously there is
no interior, but for most of us that
could be viewed as a good thing.
The inclusion of the metal barrel,
the options for the build, the metal
skirts, copper tow-cables and the
level of detail when paired with
value for money makes this kit a
no brainer.
This is a must have for anyone
remotely interested in German
armour looking for something a
little more interesting
than your more obvious
subjects. n
The skirt armour was the next element to be

weathered. The dust effect was achieved but first
applying 2 layers of Chipping Fluid and dusting on
Washable Dust colour from AMMO. Them a flat brush
moistened with water was used to chip and remove
the layer in a random, downward way. Once dry
streaking effects were created using a mix of enamel
paint. The effect is again created by dragging the
paint in a downward fashion, however this time the
brush was moistened with enamel thinner.
I managed to source this beautiful

figure from Panzerart. The pose
and the sculpt were stunning. It
always amazes me how a good
figure helps elevate my paintwork.
With the figure painted and the
skirts attached the model was
now complete.

“The ‘Blitz’ label does not
suggest any compromise
with this kit. It’s a ripper..!”

FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:35 JGSDF Type 74 Medium Tank • Kit Nos. 35114 and 35168
PINKUP
Jim Turner improves Tamiya’s vintage
1:35 JGSDF Type 74 Medium Tank. The Modelkasten set SK-52 Workable
Track for JGSDF Type 74. This is
unfortunately currently very hard to
A
fter disbandment the first prototype was completed find and a major effort to assemble
following defeat in the in 1969 with the vehicle eventually but looks much better than the kit
vinyl track. Each link consists of
Second World War, the entering service in 1979. The
five parts, the track pins (moulded
Japanese Army was protracted development was due integrally with the end connectors
eventually reconstituted in 1954 to funding limitations and an over- and a central guide horn) have to
as the Japan Ground Self Defence ambitious technical specification be sandwiched between the tops
Force (JGSDF), strictly limited including a remote-control external and bottoms (two of each per link)
of each tread without getting glue
by the Japanese Constitution machine-gun and an auto-loader
on the pins, sounds impossible and
to home defence. Its first tanks for its licence-built L7 105mm gun. it probably would be but for the
were U.S.-supplied M24 Chaffee These features were eventually included assembly jig!
Light and M4A3E8 Sherman dropped and a fourth crew member
Medium Tanks. The Chaffees were added to serve as a human loader.
replaced in 1960 by M41 Walker One advanced feature that was
Bulldog Light Tanks but replacing retained was the use of hydro-
the obsolete Shermans proved pneumatic suspension allowing the
more problematical. The available whole vehicle to be raised, lowered
options of American M47 or M48 or tilted to suit the terrain.
Medium Tanks were considered Various upgrades have been
too heavy for the many lightly built made to the Type 74 fleet through
bridges in Japan as well as being its service life, indicated by
too wide for several tunnels in sequential alphabetic codes:
the railway system, therefore the mod B to mod G, with the
decision was taken to design and initial production type being
build Japan’s first indigenous tank retrospectively labelled mod A.
since the Second World War. The Mod B involved only internal
result was the Type 61 Medium changes to the fire control system
Tank that entered service in 1962. to allow improved ammunition to
It was reputedly based on the be fired, mod C merely introduced
M47 that it somewhat resembled a new two-colour camouflage
and was armed with the same scheme while mod D introduced
90mm gun, but at only 35 tons a thermal sleeve for the main gun.
was 12 tons lighter, achieved by Mod E made further improvements
reducing the overall dimensions as to fire control and useable
well as armour protection. ammunition types and mod F
Even as it entered service added fittings for a mine roller. The
it was realised that it would final type, mod G, otherwise known
be at a disadvantage against as the Type 74 Kai, was to have
contemporary Soviet designs such been a major upgrade of the fleet
as the T-55 and T-62, however but was cancelled after only four
it set the precedent for design vehicles were converted due to its
and procurement of domestically high cost. The replacement of the
produced tanks for the JGSDF that Type 74 by more modern types
has continued to the present time. has been a slow process due to
The Type 74 was the budgetary limitations and so a few
replacement for the Type 61 and have been retained to this day. x

PANSER!

x THE KIT
Tamiya provide blanking plugs for
Tamiya has closely followed every the two rectangular holes in the hull
introduction of a new tank by the bottom, the remaining holes were
JGSDF with a 1:35 scale model. blanked off with plastic card. Plastic
Their Type 74 kit first appeared card was also used to fill the slots
above the drive sprocket axles and
in 1979 and represented a mod A
two mysterious narrow gaps between
or mod B and is typical of Tamiya the front sides of the hull and the
products of its time. Designed track guards.
for motorisation, the suspension
and lower hull are robust and
somewhat simplified, otherwise
detail and fit are good and
construction is straightforward.
The kit was treated to a
rudimentary makeover in 1993 as a
'Winter Version' with a new thermal-
sleeved gun barrel (indicating a
mod D or later), some fire simulator
gear, a pair of skis and ski poles The sponson undersides were blanked
(!), and a new decal sheet for the off with 30-thou (0.75mm) plastic card,
braced by supports also made from
winter colour schemes.
30-thou plastic card. The blanking
There was also a joint release plates were cut wider than the gap and
with Asuka that was basically the will sit on the top edges of the hull
Tamiya kit with upgrade parts to tub that conveniently align with the
make the final Type 74 Kai model. bottom edges of the sponsons.
Many of the deficiencies of the
original kit were also addressed.
Unfortunately, none of these kits
are currently listed, although it
is probably only a matter of time
before the Tamiya boxing gets
re-issued and one or two online
stockists show remaining stock.
The Asuka kit adds several of
the upgrades that I made here, so
it would be good if they re-issued
it, though I am not sure if it will Tamiya provide a metal axle for the
ever happen. front idlers, a hangover from the
Anyway, the original Tamiya motorised edition of the kit. The
idlers are mounted on stub axles
boxing was what I retrieved
attached to swing arms to adjust the
from the dark recesses of my track tension. The Modelkasten track
stash, since I had an idea to set provides the arms, some minor
make something simple and surgery to the hull is required to fit
straightforward, but of course it them. The circular boss moulded
never turns out quite that way. above each hole is the mounting for
the swing arm pivot, this needs to be
drilled out to take the Modelkasten
HULL MODIFICATIONS part. Note also the small step in the
The first things that needed fixing top edge of the hull side that is filled
were the cavernous voids under with 30-thou plastic card.
the sponsons. These are endemic
to most Tamiya kits of this
vintage, perhaps not a problem
as your model trundles across the The hole for the metal axle
has been filled and the swing
carpet under 1.5V battery power, arm mount drilled out. It
but a bit conspicuous on a static doesn’t need to be too tidy
scale model, particularly so in fortunately, as it is mostly
this case as there is a big gap hidden behind the arm.
between the sponsons and the
upper run of track.
Also in need of filling were the
holes and slots in the floor pan
associated with a previous life as
a motorised model. The back end
of the lower hull will be familiar
to anyone who has built an older
Tamiya motorised tank kit before.
The final drive housings have huge The Modelkasten part in
place, it should fit against
holes for the driven metal axle of the actuator piston that is
the motorised version and a slot included in the Tamiya kit.
in the top to allow the axle to be
dropped into place.
Plugs carrying stub axles for
the drive sprockets are provided
to fill the hole for an unmotorised

build. The result looks nothing like difficult. The interiors
the actual housings but fortunately were painted matt
they are concealed behind the black first.
drive sprocket, however the slot The Asuka
is visible and was filled with a upgraded kit
laminated plastic card plug. included clear
There are sixteen handles on the covers for the
engine deck and another two on periscopes and a
the rear plate represented by raised clear replacement
ridges. Each was cut and filed off for the commander's The upper and lower hull assemblies come
and holes drilled to accept electric cupola as well as together, and the top edge of the lower hull sits
guitar string replacements. Bending various other clear parts, neatly on the plastic card sponson undersides. The
the guitar string (actually fine steel the entire clear sprue was various blanked motorisation holes and slots in the
wire) to exactly match the spacing also sold separately as a hull floor have been levelled with Squadron Green
Putty and the large slot above the drive sprocket
of the holes is harder than it looks. 'Detail-Up' set - worth getting axle filled with plastic card.
The best way is to make all the if you can find it.
handles first, bending them around The complex shapes of modern
a marked notch on a pair of snipe- tank barrels make them a bit of a
nosed pliers to get identical width nightmare to assemble and clean
handles, then use them to identify up. I never seem to get the two
where to drill the holes. halves exactly aligned! I replaced
the kit gun barrel with a metal
TRACKS one from Akkura (105mm L7A1
The replacement of vinyl tracks is Metal Barrel, Part No. 35112).
essential for me these days and I It is intended for the Tamiya
was fortunate to be able to find a Leopard I but looks identical to
Modelkasten plastic workable track the un-sleeved barrel fitted to
set - SK-52 JGSDF Type 74. the early Type 74 and is a major
The kit tracks are not too bad improvement.
but getting them to conform to Guard frames protect the
the characteristic track sag of antenna brackets on the rear of
the Type 74 would not have been the turret, these are not included
easy. Type 74 tracks are cast steel by Tamiya although they are quite
alloy, unusually with rubber pads conspicuous. Fabricating them
on both the inner and outer faces, from 0.02in (0.51mm) brass rod
for some reason the outer pads (K&S Metals, #8159) was my
that make contact with the ground most ambitious addition,
are rarely fitted and this is how the to be honest I wasn’t
Modelkasten set (and the Tamiya sure that it would Sixteen handles on the engine deck, moulded in place as simple
ridges, were replaced with guitar string (steel wire), plus two more on
kit flexible track) is represented. work but giving it a
the rear plate.
As well as the tracks, the go paid off! I made
Modelkasten set provides stub a jig from a piece
axles on swing arms for the front of scrap wood by
idlers. The Tamiya kit just has holes cutting grooves The pair of spare track links that sit on the glacis plate are supplied
as a single piece moulding. This was replaced by two Modelkasten
to take a steel rod for mounting with a razor saw links, the track pins were made from 0.032in brass rod, the mounting
the idlers to survive the rigours of and held the rods brackets are 30-thou (0.75mm) plastic card and the retainers are scraps
motorisation. The raised collars in place with Tamiya from a photoetched nickel frame topped with 1mm Meng bolt heads.
around the holes need to be cut tape, the brass around
off and the holes filled. The circular the junctions was burnished The fit between
boss moulded above each hole is with a flux pen and soldered with the turret shell
actually the mounting for the swing lead-free solder using a small, and the mantlet
gasket is not the
arm pivot, this needs to be drilled pointed tip electrical soldering best. The simplest
out to take the Modelkasten part. iron, the excess solder was filed way to fill the gap
back with jeweller's diamond files; is to trap shims of
TURRET DETAILING the assembled frame was then 10-thou
There are plenty of options for very carefully bent into shape. I (0.25mm) plastic
card between the
adding missing detail to the turret. was moderately surprised that
parts then file
The periscope covers just have this process worked, and I ended them level.
open unglazed fronts. Tamiya up with a pair of convincing
provides a die-cut sheet of clear guards! Drilling the holes needed
plastic to make the front window to fit them required some careful
of the searchlight and fortunately alignment. Starting at the widest
this provides sufficient surplus point of attachment, the lower
material to glaze the covers for the front leg, a hole was drilled, and Periscope cover windows
periscopes, three for the driver's the appropriate wire end inserted were cut from spare clear
plastic that is supplied
station plus two on the turret roof until the next wire end made for the searchlight. I was
and one for the commander's contact, so indicating the position concerned that gluing
cupola. I cut appropriately sized of the next hole. The process was them by the edges would
rectangles from the clear sheet repeated until all four wire ends mar the surface, so I cut
that extend into the interior and were located. Before fixing the them with an internal
overhang and fixed them
are fixed from inside with generous guard with cyanoacrylate glue, the
in place with a large blob
blobs of PVA glue, since gluing antenna base was placed in its of PVA glue. Three more
them by the edges without marring location as it won't be possible to are needed for the driver’s
the surface would have been do this afterwards. x station in the hull.

x The searchlight is very prominent

and needed some improvement.
The projections moulded on the
sides are lifting handles to allow the
unit to be dismounted. Moulding
them integrally means that what
should be a tubular handle is
rendered as a deep flange. This
was cut out and the surface below
ground flat, the handle was then
added with 0.032in brass rod
(K&S Metals, #8160). The rather
vulnerable-looking cables for the
searchlight are absent from the
original kit, although I believe that
a cable is included in the later
winter version. I made mine from
0.8mm black aluminium craft wire
with attachment ties made from
slivers of Tamiya tape. There is
also a thinner second cable that I
made from a single strand taken
from multi-core picture-hanging
wire. The back of the searchlight
The exhaust shrouds stand off from the hull
box was drilled to accept a section sides, held in place by several bolts. The bolt
of 1/16in brass tube (K&S Metals, heads are represented on the outside but the
#8125) that acts as a connector inner parts are not. I used 1mm Meng nuts and
for the larger cable and a section bolts to represent these, fortunately they were
of 0.04in (1mm) plastic rod was just about the right length to span the gap.
used for the small cable connector,
drilled out to accept the cable.
Similar connectors need to be The headlamp clusters were drilled at the back
added to the turret side to take and wiring added made from single copper
strands taken from a multi-strand electrical wire.
the other ends of the cables. The
searchlight mounting bracket also
needed a bit of work; after filling a
couple of ejector pin marks I drilled
out lightening holes in the triangular
bracing plates. The real bracket is The improved infra-red/white light searchlight. On
liberally decorated with bolts and I the searchlight box itself the lifting handles have
added many of these using 0.8mm been replaced with 0.032in (0.81mm) brass rod and
and 1mm bolt heads and bolt ends on the back electrical connectors have been added
from 1/16in brass tube and plastic tube. The heavy
with nuts from the Meng Nuts and electrical cable is a length of 0.8mm (15-gauge) black
Bolts set (SPS-005). aluminium craft wire and the lighter cable is a strand
from a braided picture-hanging wire, the two are fixed
PAINTING together with small strips cut from Tamiya masking
With construction mostly complete tape reinforced with cyanoacrylate glue. The mounting
bracket is festooned with 1mm and 0.8mm Meng bolt
– just the wheels and tracks still heads and nuts, also lightening holes have been
unattached – the transparent parts drilled in the reinforcing ribs.
were masked with Tamiya Tape
and all components got a coat of
Citadel Chaos Black Primer from
the spray can.
In retrospect I should not have
sprayed the tracks. Several of the
joints were locked up by primer
getting into the pivots, on straight
sections this didn’t matter too
much, but some that needed
bending around the sprockets and
idlers needed disturbing amounts
of ‘encouragement’.
Although I usually use enamels,
Tamiya offers specific colours for
JGSDF vehicles in their ranges, so
in this case I used XF-74 JGSDF
Olive Drab from their acrylic range;
the kit instructions only specify
olive drab as the overall colour,
since the kit dates from before
the acrylic range was launched!
The antenna bases needed a little work, sunken ejector pin marks were filled with Squadron Green Putty, the slots for the recommended
The whole vehicle except tracks stretched sprue antennae were filled with plastic card fillets and sanded to a round section, then holes were drilled in the ends to take guitar
received an airbrushed coat of string antennae, 70mm in length plus 2mm inserted. I also replaced the mounting pivots with 0.8mm piano wire (Mantua Model, Part No. 2900)
Olive Drab, then small details to make them rather more robust.

The 105mm gun barrel was
replaced with a turned metal
item from Akkura. This is
intended for the Tamiya
Leopard I but looks identical
to the Japanese licence-built
version and fits with just a
little reaming to enlarge the
hole in the mantlet.
The towing cable is supplied as a single part on the plastic sprue. I cut the
cable eyes and mounting brackets from the part and replaced the cable itself
with braided picture-hanging wire. Also visible in this photo are a couple of
stowage bin handles that were replaced (two on each side) by 0.02in brass
rod, the driver’s hatch handle replaced with 0.6mm piano wire (Mantua
Model, Part No. 2899), two 10-thou plastic card semi-circular brackets on the
driver’s station and the wiring behind the headlamp clusters.
were picked out by fine brush bright metal in most photographs, However, I need not have been Enamel Washes, mostly Black and
with Humbrol Enamels. The kit so I airbrushed them with Tamiya concerned. The decals didn't a little Dark Brown.
instructions suggest that the Lacquer LP-38 Flat Aluminium. disintegrate as I had feared and A very restrained application
pioneer tools should be painted in This was my first use of this paint they adhered to the gloss surface of mud to the suspension and
steel and wood shades however range, and I was very happy well with no silvering. Fortunately, lower hull was added using heavily
photos show that they are painted with the result, normally I would all decal locations were moderately thinned Humbrol Matt 29 Dark
in the hull colour. I added some use enamel but using an acrylic flat with no tricky contours to Earth applied by brush.
‘distressing’ using Humbrol Metallic lacquer-based paint meant that contend with. A number of options The whole tank received a final
56 Aluminium on metal parts the tracks would not need a clear are included with various colourful airbrushed coat of Humbrol Matt
and Matt 186 Brown on wooden acrylic coat before weathering with unit and individual tank markings, Clear diluted with Humbrol Enamel
handles to suggest chipping and enamels, and after my experience mostly from the JGSDF Tank Thinners. Even on a clean tank,
wear, the spade also got a hint of of gumming up the tracks with School, since the kit was originally mud, vegetation, small furry animals
Matt 29 Dark Earth to add some primer I wanted to keep the paint released as the real tank was still etc. get pressed into the track faces.
dried mud effect. The towing layers to a minimum. Unusually the being introduced; I chose the I mixed the Dark Earth paint with
cable was painted with Metallic Type 74 tracks seem to have rub- 'Pink Panther' as the design was ground up artist’s grey pastel stick
53 Gunmetal with the eyes in ber pads on the inside of the track narrow enough not have to be cut to make a thick paste and added a
hull colour. The exhaust fishtails where they contact the tyres, pads to fit around the searchlight cable! little Warhammer Static Grass, the
seem to have a dull silvery finish – and tyres were brush painted with Despite their age, the decals are resultant paste was pressed into the
possibly heat resistant aluminium Humbrol Matt 67 Tank Grey. in fact quite nicely printed and outer face of the tracks with a small
paint. I used Metallic 56 Aluminium even include the Mitsubishi Heavy spatula, also with a build-up on the
with a light stippling of Matt 251 DECALS Industries manufacturer’s logo on inside of the rear mud flaps where
Dunkelbraun to give the impression There have been several the rear plate. The decals got a it is thrown by the track. Typically
of some corrosion. Headlamps and aftermarket decal sheets for the second coat of Tamiya Gloss Clear for a Tamiya kit of this vintage, the
taillights were painted silver, orange Type 74 but none seemed to be to seal them down once fully dried. wheels including drive sprockets
or red as per Tamiya instructions. available when I built this kit, so and front idlers are retained by poly-
With all painting complete, the I was stuck with the kit-supplied WEATHERING AND caps, so fitting the suspension was
hull, turret and wheels got an sheet. I wasn't too enthusiastic FINISHING TOUCHES a simple matter of fitting the tracks
airbrushed coat of Tamiya Acrylic about it. These older Tamiya decals I kept the dirt and wear to and pushing the wheels into place.
X-22 Gloss Clear thinned 50:50 sheets look quite thick. The printing a minimum appropriate to a One last touch was to paint the
with Tamiya Acrylic Thinners to can also be rather crude; on top peacetime JGSDF vehicle. commander’s cupola vision blocks
prepare for decaling and weather- of which the sheet itself was more The upper surfaces received a and the infra-red headlamps with
ing. The tracks appear to be very than two decades old (time flies!) restrained pin wash using Humbrol Humbrol Gloss 21 Black. x
The antenna bases have rather

obvious protective cages that are
not represented in the kit. I made
these from 0.02in (0.51mm) brass
rod using a wooden block as a jig.
Slots were cut into it with a razor
saw to locate the rods that were
held in place with Tamiya tape,
they could then be joined using a
fine soldering iron bit and lead-free
solder. With the top bar soldered in
place, the vertical bars were cut to
length, the assembly re-mounted
and the bottom bar added in the
same way. An assembled item is
shown above, the excess solder has
been carefully filed back using a
jeweller’s diamond file.
The soldered cage after being bent

into shape. The brass rod bends
very easily but care needs to be
taken not to put the soldered joints
under any strain.
The completed turret just needs the periscope windows masking and it’s ready for painting.

x PINKUPANSA! Aside from the modifications already mentioned, tie-down

Finally - an explanation of the title eyes and loops on the rear turret roof were replaced with fine
guitar string, grab handles on the turret side were replaced
of the article… with 0.032in brass rod, hatch handles were replaced with
The traditional Japanese language 0.6mm piano wire and the end connectors for the searchlight
has no specific word for ‘panther’, cables were made from 1/16” brass tube and plastic rod.
the closest is ‘hyou’ which is more
properly translated as ‘leopard’.
More surprisingly, there is also
no direct translation for ‘pink’,
the term ‘momo-iro’ or ‘peach-
coloured’ being commonly used,
although it is often the practice in
modern Japanese to use English
words modified to make them
sound more natural to a
Japanese speaker – in
this case ‘pink’ becomes
‘pinku’. Since ‘Pink
Panther’ in traditional
Japanese comes out
something like ‘peach-
coloured leopard’ it is
not surprising that this popular
cartoon character is known in
Japan as ‘Pinkupansa!’ n
“The replacement of
the Type 74 by more
modern types has been
a slow process due to
budgetary limitations
and so a few have been
retained to this day...”

Incoming
STAR HOBBIES
1:35 SCALE MEDITERRANEAN FISHING BOAT
ITEM NO. STAR270 - AUD$20.00
Star Hobbies is an Australian company that designs and manufactures a large range of
resin accessories for aircraft, armour, figures, sci-fi, civilian vehicles, railway and more.
Star Hobbies has sent their Mediterranean Fishing Boat for review. There is no scale
mentioned on the packaging but it looks closest to 1:35 scale. It will certainly be suitable
for 1:32 scale too, and perhaps even as a big boat in 1:48.
The boat is an impressive one-piece casting in blue. The ribs, floor planks and other
structural details are all cast in place. There is almost no clean-up required – a little
sanding along the keel line and the boat will be ready to use.
Also note that although it is labelled as Mediterranean, there is no reason it could not be
placed in any waterside scene.
Star Hobbies’ Mediterranean Fishing Boat will be a nice centrepiece for a vignette or an
accessory for a diorama.
Recommended.
Thanks to Star Hobbies for the sample www.starhobbies.com.au
Brett Green
STAR HOBBIES
OLD WOODEN FENCE SECTION TYPE 2
ITEM NO. STAR312
AUD$8.00
Star Hobbies has also sent along their Old Wooden Fence Section Type 2.
This is cast conventionally as one part in grey coloured resin.
The fence is cast with a high level of detail on both sides. Woodgrain is
pronounced, as you would expect with old, weathered timber planks.
Once again, the part is ready to use straight from the bag.
There is no scale mentioned on the packaging but it looks closest to 1:35
scale. It will certainly be suitable for 1:32 scale too.
Star Hobbies’ Old Wooden Fence Type 2 will be a versatile and convincing
prop to any vignette or diorama. I’ll have to get myself Type 1 too!
Recommended.
Thanks to Star Hobbies for the sample www.starhobbies.com.au
Brett Green

STAR DECALS
1:35 DECALS
- 35-908 BRITISH COMETS IN EUROPE STAR DECALS
- 35-C1353 - WAR IN UKRAINE #1 1:35 SCALE COMETS
One not-so-good feature of Tamiya's otherwise
- 35-C1354 - WAR IN UKRAINE #2 excellent Comet kit (35380) is the decals.
- 35-C1355 - WAR IN UKRAINE #3 Luckily, Star Decals has come up with two sets
- 35-C1356 - WAR IN UKRAINE #4 to offer alternatives.
Set 35-C1374 covers tanks in British service
- 35-C1364 - DAIMLER ARMOURED CAR #1 in 1945. Several are for 11th Armoured
- 35-C1365 - DAIMLER ARMOURED CAR #2 Division's 1st Fife & Forfar Yeomanry, with
'SAINT PATRICK' and 'SAINT ANDREW' from
Regimental HQ, 'WHY WORRY' and 'WHY
Star Decals from Sweden has been busy lately with a batch of new 1:35 NOT' from A Squadron and 'DESERT ROSE'
scale releases, but I will start with an older but very timely subject: from B Squadron. Others cover tanks from 7th
Armoured Division seen in the Victory Parade
- 35-908 BRITISH COMETS IN EUROPE in Berlin, all from 1RTR we have 'ANTISEPTIC',
British A34 Comet in WWII and Cold War Europe. 'ANOTHER DUFFLE BAG', 'VIVIEN LEIGH'
WWII (1 RTR, 3 RTR, 2nd Fife and Forfar Yeomanry), and cold war and 'LONG JOHN SILVER III'. Unit markings,
BAOR and Berlin Brigade. tac signs, serials where known and names are
Tamiya has supplied only a very limited number of markings on the decal supplied. All these tanks were Comet 1A as
sheet for their otherwise gorgeous new 1:35 Comet kit. depicted in the kit.
Star Decals offers five full marking options plus a number of variations Set 35-C1375 gives markings for post-war users.
with extra names and War Department numbers for all locations. These cover three tanks of the Irish Defence
Formation Badges, Arm of Service flashes, Tactical Signs and Bridge Forces, three for the Finnish Army, three for the
Classification numbers are included too, as are a number of individual South African Defence Forces in three different
vehicle names. colour schemes, one for Burma/Myanmar and
This will be a very useful decal set to individualise your Tamiya Comet. one for Cuba. All visible markings are included,
They will fit the Bronco kits too. note that some tanks are Mk 1B so will need
minor conversion work.
Recommended.
Next up are four new releases focusing on the current war in Ukraine. Thanks to Star Decals for the samples
All four cover an interesting selection of Ukrainian vehicles: www.star-decals.net
Peter Brown
- 35-C1353 - WAR IN UKRAINE #1
AZOV-Batalion 2014-2022.
BRDM-2, UAZ-469, UAZ-452 'Buhanka' and MT-LB with ZSU-23 gun.

Ukrainian transport vehicles 2014-2022.
MAZ-537 tank transporter and UAZ-452 'Buhanka'.

Ukrainian AFVs 2022 war.
BRDM-2, BMP-1P and BMP-2.

Ukrainian T-64 Mix in 2022 War.
T-64A, T-64B, T-64BV and T-64BM 'Bulat'. Plus generic insignias.
Finally, Star Decals has released two new sets for the Daimler Armoured Car.
- 35-C1364 - DAIMLER ARMOURED CAR #1

British and Belgian Service in WWII.
1st Royal Dragoons, RAC Gunnery School, 11th Hussars and 1st Belgian
Armoured Car Squadron.
- 35-C1365 - DAIMLER ARMOURED CAR #2

British Cold War Service.
Palestine, Korean War, Kenya (Mau Mau Rebellion), Suez Crisis 1956,
Malaya/Malaysia and Cyprus.
All of these Star Decals releases are packed in a resealable plastic

bag and feature a single folded A4 page of instructions. Each subject is
illustrated in colour. Scrap views and notes are offered where necessary.
The instruction sheet also has a number map for the decal sheet.
The decal sheets themselves are printed in perfect register. They have a
satin finish but sit down on the surface of the model very well. I have used
Star Decals on many project and they have always behaved well for me.
Recommended.
Thanks to Star Decals for the samples www.star-decals.net
Brett Green

Book Reviews
SOVIET PISTOLS STALINGRAD

TOKAREV, MAKAROV, STECHKIN 1942-43 (3) - CATASTROPHE:
AND OTHERS THE DEATH OF 6TH ARMY
OSPREY WEAPON 84 • BY LEROY THOMPSON • ISBN 978 1 4278 5348 6 OSPREY CAMPAIGN 385 • BYROBERT FORCZYK • ISBN 978 1 4278 4273 2
Menacing men wielding silenced pistols usher a hooded captive through Emerging from morning mist, a column of tanks headed by three Panzers,
Beirut streets; Soviet tankers from a burning T-34 and partisan holding pistols surprise sentries and a Flak crew guarding a pontoon bridge; Soviet infantry
at Rzhev; a downed helicopter crew blaze away with pistols in Angola; these quickly dismount and seize the Don crossing. Only days before, Operation
eye-catching artworks illustrate wars where Soviet handguns were used. Uranus began with tank-infantry shock groups attacking the Romanian
Pistols in Soviet use date from Smith and Wesson, and Nagant M1894 Third Army on 6.Armee’s flank, and Stalingrad Front, positioned south of
imported revolvers, the M1894s eventually being manufactured at the Tula Stalingrad, attacking westwards; the captured Don bridge enabled Soviet
armaments plant. Imported FN Browning semi-automatics and Colt M1911s forces to link up encircling Paulus’ 6.Armee. Forbidden to withdraw due to
also influenced Soviet pistol design. The Tokarev TT-30 and improved TT-33 Stalingrad’s fortress status, Paulus was to be resupplied by Luftwaffe airlift,
Tula-Tokarev pistols entered service in the mid 1930s using a 7.62 x 18mm but insufficient transport aircraft, bad winter weather and Soviet fighter
cartridge in a seven round magazine. Lacking a safety, it required a first interception restricted delivery.
and second round firing technique after carrying the weapon with an empty Soviet ground forces advancing to the Chir River further distanced
chamber. Heeresgruppe B from 6.Armee. Von Manstein assigned to command
Makarov PM, Pistolet Makarova, influenced by the captured Walther factory Operation Wintergewitter with his newly created Heeresgruppe Don relief
designs of East Germany, and taken into service in 1951 used a 9 x 18mm force failed, Paulus refusing to breakout from the entrapment. The Soviet
cartridge. The APS Avtomaticheskyi Pistolet Stechkina pistol-carbine offered Operation Little Saturn continued to pressure German flanks attacking the
semi-auto or full-auto fire using a detachable holster-stock and 20 round Italian Eighth Army and German support units.
magazine. Another Walther influenced pistol, the slim PSM with 7N7 Kevlar Isolated German units and stragglers short of food, fuel and ammunition
penetrating round, is an easily concealed assassination handgun. Besshumnyi, retreated as Soviet Fronts converged on Stalingrad in the Operation Ring
silenced versions are available for spetsialnyi use by military or security forces, assaults into the pocket. 6.Armee fractured under these attacks and the
as are MSP, PSS Derringer types and SPP-1 underwater dart pistols. ongoing battles in central Stalingrad and industrial districts with Soviet 62nd
Some Warsaw Pact and client states manufactured copy or modified Soviet Army.
pistols such as Chinese Types 51 and 54. There are cutaways of the Paulus surrendered in March 1943, a 6 month battle, massively destructive
Tokaryev TT-33 and Makarov PM. on men, machines and materiel on both sides, with additional German
Photos show guns with holsters and in disassembled state. captivity deaths and NKVD sweeps for Soviet Hiwi collaborators.
Recommended. Photos and artwork show commanders, weapons, and battlefield conditions.
Thanks to Osprey for the sample www.ospreypublishing.com Recommended.
John Ham Thanks to Osprey for the sample www.ospreypublishing.com
John Ham
If you learned your German from Commando comics you will have no language problems here.
Printed on ersatz quality austerity paper, it is a near perfect forgery by the Tank Museum labour
abteilung only betrayed by a dedication to the purchasers of the earlier Special Collections
Edition, and grainy Tiger photos that escaped the censor.
Designed to fit neatly into your favourite uniform fatigues but not your unregulation new skinny-fit
jeans, it has all your Tiger heroes: Gustav the Off-Roader driver; Funker Radio Operator Birdy,
the Interference Fighter; Loader Cartridgebag the Uninhibited; Gunner Lazyeye, the Infallible;
and tank fuhrer Commander Quickthinker, the Vigilant. It has invaluable advice and tips in words
and pictures on how to keep your Tiger healthy eg. do not use your periscopes for viewing pretty
frauleins; oiling is beneficial both to the beach beauty and Tiger. There are pull-out wanted posters
for Amerikaner tanks General Lee, General Sherman, Ivan’s KW1 and T34, and Britischer fuhrer
Churchill III, enemy tank armour thickness charts, and Russki tank recognition crib sheets.
TANK MUSEUM The legendary Tigerfibel manual makes a wunderbar St Nicklaus gift and for perusing after your
Yuletide bratwurst und schnapps (verboten for jugend readers – wasser recommended).
TIGERFIBEL D656//27 - Order from the Tank Museum quartermaster enclosing name, rank and number, and remittance in
Reichmarks. Ration coupons not accepted.
TANK MUSEUM EDITION Recommended.

Thanks to The Tank Museum for the sample.
ISBN 978 1 7399027 6 6 • £40 • H/B 92PP John Ham

The “Nuts and Bolts” series of reference
books are without a doubt the premium
examples of what a reference book
should be. The books offer a one-stop
reference source for the particular
vehicle they cover and this one is no
exception.
This new reference work has some
232 pages and was prompted in part,
by the now out of print issue 4 which
delt with the Sd.kfz. 222 and 223. It
is pleasing as this volume deep dives
into the whole series of vehicles on the
Einheitsfahrgestell 1&2 chassis.
This reference work is logically broken
down into segmented parts. The first 79
pages are devoted to the development
and technical specification in German
service. Within this section, selected
subsections discuss the development
and technical description in detail and
also the various kits and accessories
FOREIGN PANTHERS, on offer, but strangely no 1:48 scale kits
THE PANZER V IN BRITISH, SD.KFZ. 221, 222, are mentioned.

The book is jammed packed with
SOVIET, FRENCH AND OTHER 223, 247, 260 details like all the variations and how
they were used in the field. The next
SERVICE 1943-58 AND 261 section covers some 76 pages and

again is lavishly illustrated with more
than 213 black and white photos. The
NUTS AND BOLTS VOLUME 47
OSPREY NEW VANGUARD 313 clarity and captions on these photos are
BY HOLGER ERDMANN noteworthy as they cover a vast number
BY MP ROBINSON, THOMAS SEIGNON., 2022. of additions and modifications adopted
ISBN 978 1 4278 3181 1 in the field and clearly the author is well
versed on the technical nuances of all
Ironically, the Panther served for much longer in the service the various versions and additions.
of its enemies than the Third Reich; Britain even completed The next 27 pages are devoted to 1:35
several new Panthers and Jadpanthers in post-war Germany. scale plans of all the known versions.
Of Germany’s Axis allies, only Hungary received Panthers The illustrations and three-dimensional
in WWII, seeing action in Galicia and Transylvania. Russia drawings by Lieuen De Coninck are
captured many Panthers at Kursk and later battles. Soviet wonderfully done. With the chassis
evaluations liked the 7.5cm KwK 42, optics, and cross- detail and 4-wheel drive axis clearly
country performance, but few went into front-line service due defined. Sixteen colour profile drawings
to mechanical unreliability. Instead, Soviet Panthers were follow and are wonderfully executed and
allotted to Eastern allies in WWII and post-war: to Bulgaria, presented.
some becoming fortifications on the Bulgarian-Greek border; What I like about these profiles is that
and Romania as the T-5. a small black and white photo of the
Resistance armies employed captured Panthers: the Polish subject is inserted, to which the artist
Home Army in Warsaw with “Pudel” (better known as has given his interpretation. This should
“Magda”) and “Felek”; the French FFI had two Panthers, one be the industry standard.
named Dauphine. Panther 433 sent by Russia to Britain was The next 41 pages comprise 123 colour
extensively tested. and black and white walk around photos
America tested antitank weapons on Normandy captures. of restored examples. The entire vehicle
Two captured Panthers were operated by the British, is covered from the interior - engine
“Deserter” in Italy and celebrity “Cuckoo” in Western Europe, through to a detailed study of how all
crews comparing them favourably to their Churchills. the various hatches opened. The last
Czechoslovakia repaired abandoned Panthers designated page is devoted to photos of 3 models
VT-42/75, and Bergepanther VT-42 recovery vehicles; plans by Vinnie Brangan and Roland Greth
for SPGs on Panther chassis did not reach production. with the rest of the models available on
France, rebuilding its army, operated a small fleet of their website if you wish to view them.
refurbished Panthers, but scarcity of spares shortened In summary, if you plan to build any of
active service, as also for other users. The post-war AMX 13 these series of vehicles, you really can’t
used a Panther-derived gun, also supplied as kits for Israeli go past this title. It has everything you
M4s. This comprehensive account puts together the often will need, reference wise. I guess I’m
fragmentary history of Foreign Panthers. old school but I like the convenience of
Artwork and photos show markings and colours. these books.
Recommended. It is easy to just grab the book, open to
Thanks to Osprey for the sample www.ospreypublishing.com the section I want and get on with the
John Ham build.
In my opinion, these books are like five
traditional books in one - a development
history, wartime photos, line drawings,
colour profiles and a comprehensive
walk around.
Highly Recommended.
Thanks to Nuts & Bolts for the sample
www.nuts-bolts.de
Luke Pitt

1:48 Scale – A round-up of the latest news and releases
AN INTERVIEW WITH
JAPANESE MASTER MODELLER
JUMPEI TEMMA
’m now fully convinced that 3d printing is the way
I
Luke: I note from your prints that you have and
of the future in our little hobby after reviewing and incredible eye for detail and this in turn
sampling some breathtaking examples of the 3d has resulted in your prints being almost
printed form. I know a lot of guys have embraced 3d flawless. Can you tell our readers the
printing with a passion and I can see why. process you undertake to produce such
The photos you see here are from a very talented outstanding results?
Japanese modeler, Jumpei Temma. He has designed
and offered some of them to anyone who has a 3d Jumpei: Certainly. I have been told by some that
printer to download for free. I have sharper eyes than others. I don't
Jumpei’s files are located at: www.facebook.com/ like any difference between a model
groups/3D48th kits and an actual aircraft in their outline
Now here’s the rub. I don’t own a 3d printer but given shapes, so I modify the model to make
the results I have seen, I have been thinking about them more accurate. Funnily enough, my
purchasing one. friends don't seem to mind that much with
Here is an interview that I recently conducted with shapes and alike. Whenever I design in
Jumpei-san: 3d, I always collect as many pictures of
the actual vehicle or aircraft as I can - both
Luke: Good to have you with Jun. Can you tell us walk-arounds and recorded photos - and
a little of your background what led you into always refer to them as I work. For each
our little hobby in the first place? part, I measure the photo and calculate
the dimensions of the part by proportional
Jumpei: I am a modeller living in Kobe Japan with calculation. When the rough design is
50 years of modelling experience. Aircraft completed, I compare it with the photo and
are my main interest, about 10 years ago, make corrections.
I expanded my interests into 1:48 armour.
I started 3d printing in 2018. It all started Luke: To the uninitiated like myself, can you
with Airfix - an English Phantom - and explain the printing process and how long
as I couldn't scratch build small slits by it takes to produce one of your prints and
myself, out of necessity I learned 3d CAD then turn them into models?
and bought a 3d printer. This was the
beginning. Please take a look at my site if Jumpei: Sure, for example, a simple part such as a
your readers are interested. http://soyuyo. road wheel can be designed in about 1-2
main.jp/index.html All my 3d files, including hours, including document review. A full
those not uploaded to 3D48th, can be scratch build of a tank would easily exceed
downloaded from there. 100 hours due to the large number of
parts. Once a rough design is completed,
Luke: Looking at your website, you have a a trial print is made. As a result, defects in
remarkable talent for getting things correct the design inevitably appear so, they are
in my opinion, not only with armor but corrected and printed once again. This
aircraft as well. process is essential for making a high-
quality model, and it takes a great deal
Jumpei: Thank you Luke time and effort.
Once the 3d model is finished, it is time
Luke: I can see a future where a company like for the actual printing and assembly of the
Tamiya might re-brand a top end printer print. In the case of the Type 97 tank, the
and offer the files to download for price for actual printing was divided into 5 parts,
example to modify their existing kits. What each taking 2 to 5 hours at most. However,
are your thoughts on that? beginners need a certain amount of time to
become familiar with the printer. And once
Jumpei: If such a future comes, I think it will be the printing is done, the rest is almost the
very interesting. 3d printing enables high- same as making a Tamiya kit in 1:48 scale.
mix low-volume production. It also has the
advantage of not being constrained by the Luke: One of the things that strikes me about you
pull direction of moulding. Therefore, it Jun is your kindness in sharing your print
is desirable that 3d printing and injection files for free to other likeminded individuals.
models co-exist. I find this approach to be refreshing and

Luke Pitt hosts MMI’s examination of the growing world
of 1:48 scale military models, figures and accessories.
very generous What prompted you to

do this?
Jumpei: I really wanted to have 1:48 Type 97

tank model so I made a 3d design
for myself. And when I thought about
what to do with the obsolete design, I
thought it would be best to make them
freely available to everyone. I can sell
print outs, but if I were to sell them, it
would take time to print, pack and ship
them. I want to use that time to make
the next model. Life it seems is far too
short and there are so many things I
want to make. I'm a modeler first , not
a manufacturer. T-REX STUDIO
Luke: Given your expertise in this new and 1:48 SCALE
evolving medium, can you offer any KING TIGER (TRANSPORT)
advice for anyone trying to emulate ITEM NO. TR84005
your work and any pitfalls they may In keeping with the 3d print theme this month it is fitting
encounter along the way? to review another outstanding 3d product, this time from
T-Rex Studio.
Jumpei: Firstly, install a CAD software, buy a When Tamiya released their King Tigers in 2006 (has it
printer, and try it yourself. I think you'll been that long?) I welcomed their release. They were,
find it interesting. 3d model printing after all, a Tank I had always wanted to build.
is a very deep and fun world. Pitfalls The thing that struck me then though was the tracks. Sure
are resolved by communicating with they had a wonderful sag and were easy to put together,
likeminded individuals. In addition, but they seemed a bit clunky and overscale in my view.
many problems can be solved by I quickly bought the Friulmodel tracks (ATL-4806) but they
searching on the web. also left me a little flat.
I'll tell you just one tip. In terms of I’d always had a soft spot for the transport tracks, and
design, we can design as finely as we these simply weren’t available to my knowledge. Well, all
want. However, in order for the printed that has changed with this new release from T-Rex studio.
model to be convincing, moderate The tracks are probably the best multi part aftermarket
omissions and exaggerations are tracks for the King Tiger available in 1:48 today. Not
necessary. I learned this is by trial and only are they dead accurate and remarkably easy to put
many errors. together, they are of the narrow transport variety.
Two types of pins are provided with the flat head pin being
Luke: There is a school of thought that 3d inserted on the
printing is just scratch building on a inside portion of
computer and I’m inclined to agree. the track and the
What are your thoughts on that? double head pin
being inserted
Jumpei: I think so too. The pleasure and and pressed in
satisfaction when the file and print the outside edge.
is done is very enjoyable to me as a The tracks fit like
modeller. a glove to both
the front and rear
Luke: It’s been a great pleasure to have you sprockets of the
with us this month Jun. I greatly admire Tamiya kit.
your skill and generosity in allowing I cannot fault
your files to be downloaded. You are a these tracks at all.
great inspiration to many. When assembled
correctly the pins
Jumpei: Thank you very much Luke. I hope don’t fall out.
many 1:48 modelers will use my These are by a
designs. When I designed the M3A1 wide margin the
late model, an Australian modeler easiest and most
(Mark Kerr) used my design and accurate King
modified it into the M3 mid/early model. Tiger tracks I have
This makes me very happy. It is also ever put together.
my intention to release the data for If you like or
free. It's worth more than the money have the Tamiya
from selling data or kits. I believe that King Tigers kit in
if this kind of movement spreads, it will your stash, go out and get these, they are that good, well
be a wonderful world. perfect really and it may well encourage T-Rex Studios to
do more in 1:48 scale.
Luke: Wise words my friend. Thank you Highly Recommended.
again. You are an inspiration to many. Thanks to T-Rex Studio for the sample
Luke Pitt

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Next Issue
On sale 6th April ISSUE No.204 April 2023,
Published 2nd March 2023
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...and much more! April 2023 - Model Military International 65

The Last Post...
EXERCISE TALLINN DAWN

T
he training is taking place at assessment and feedback of the
The Queens Royal Hussars the Combat Ready Training Battlegroup’s performance. The
take part in Exercise TALLINN Centre which is based in

Germany and oversees the
demanding exercise is an arduous mix
of simulation, live-firing field training
DAWN which is a Mission Ready training with mentors and observers
on the ground advising personnel.
phases involving armour, infantry,
artillery and engineers.
Exercise that is part of the pre- Tracking devices are fitted to
troops and equipment which relays
Delay and hold serials are also
validated to trade space for time with
deployment pathway for the information to the Exercise Control a range of supporting capabilities
room where data on how the fixed together to develop the level
Operation CABRIT in Estonia. Battlegroup are performing is collated. of competencies, capabilities and
The results from the information integration required. n
collected is then analysed to provide
The Challenger 2 Main Battle Tank from The Queens Royal Hussars moves across the snow Trooper Seatherton, Queens Royals Hussars (QRH) gunner of Challenger 2 main battle
during a combined arms manoeuvre on Sennerlager Training Area during Final Training Exercise. tank. Part of the D squadron, “The Black Pigs.” Currently deployed on Exercise TALLIN
DAWN. Image shows Challenger with Direct Fire Weapon Effects Simulator loaded.
66 Model Military International - April 2023 © MoD Crown Copyright 2023

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FREE 180 metres of

masking tape! M24 CHAFFEE History and

INSIDE: Dragon 1:35 Pz.Bef.Wg Panther with Zimmerit - PREVIEWED

p 14 THE NAKED CHAFFEE

© Doolittle Media Ltd 2023

Tel: (UK) 01525 222573

April 2023 - Model Military International 3

NEW TAMIYA 1:48 M8

Thanks to Tamiya for the information and model images www.tamiya.com

4 Model Military International - April 2023

In Part One of this

M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK

6 Model Military International - April 2023

April 2023 - Model Military International 7

8 Model Military International - April 2023

April 2023 - Model Military International 9

10 Model Military International - April 2023

This M24 supports French

This French M24, seen in Haiphong,

china, where the French colonial

April 2023 - Model Military International 11

Link & length tracks Lower hull Upper hull detail

Track link detail Close up of the tools

12 Model Military International - April 2023

Order online at www.doolittlemedia.com or on 01525 222573

14 Model Military International - April 2023

April 2023 - Model Military International 15

Various images of the plastic sprues and decal sheet

16 Model Military International - April 2023

April 2023 - Model Military International 17

x either stored on the right side of

Heat stretched sprue

18 Model Military International - April 2023

April 2023 - Model Military International 19

Thanks to The Hobby Company

Kit history via Scalemates

20 Model Military International - April 2023

April 2023 - Model Military International 21

* Terms and conditions

24 Model Military International - April 2023

Luke Pitt adds detail to Overlord

April 2023 - Model Military International 25

THE OVERLORD MINIATURES KIT

The upper hull is supplied in one-piece.

26 Model Military International - April 2023

I moved on to the front drive sprocket.

I then reattached the saved bolt

The last step on the To alleviate this somewhat I went to my spare

April 2023 - Model Military International 27

The muffler guard is provided as a solid one-piece affair and I

The inner bogie arms were then attached to the

Small bolt heads were added to the top

The outer bogie arms were

I wanted a bit of stowage on the

28 Model Military International - April 2023

The gesturing When the figure was

ADDING A BIT OF BLING IS AWAYS A GOOD THING

The foliage is 1:72 scale

April 2023 - Model Military International 29