Ellamera Formulation Guide - Dec 2022 Updated

Ellamera™
Multifunctional Rheology Modifiers
FORMULATION GUIDE
VERSATILE FORMULAS
Ellamera copolymer products can alter the rheology

of base ingredients, allowing formulators to achieve
results that enhance the beauty level while still
delivering a tactile experience. When dissolved in a
wide variety of synthetic, polar, ester or natural oils,
the products facilitate the transformation of these oils
into clear, thicker, shear thinning, thixotropic and
film-forming gels that meet a multitude of formulator
and consumer needs.
Ellamera grades may be used as a gelling agent or to

complement other ingredients. Increasing the oil
phase’s viscosity and enabling film-forming abilities
with high clarity allows formulators to reduce the
number of materials required for optimal effect.
Ellamera copolymer products deliver excellent oil
retention and water resistance – a perfect combination
for high-performing, long-lasting cosmetics.
POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS FEATURES & BENEFITS
Color Cosmetics Texture and Touch
• Lip gloss • Customizable texture

• Lipstick • Shear-thinning rheology
• Lip liner • Spreadable
• Mascara | Eye shadow • Film forming
• Blush | Foundation • Water resistant
• Concealer
Skincare Color
• Customizable color effects

• Mask
• High transparency to enhance
• Lotion & serum
truer,
• Face & body oil
• deeper, bolder colors
• High gloss
• Excellent suspension
Haircare Pro-natural & Sustainable
• Low residuals & hypoallergenic

• Oil treatment
• Compatible with natural oils
• Relaxer
Suncare
• Sunscreen
• Sunblock
• Lotion/spray/stick
3
Green Cleansing Oil
Example Formulation*
Description
A cleansing oil with medium viscosity is described. The formula provides a pleasant texture
with cleaning capabilities and features Ellamera PER-SUST™ 504 by Kraton.
Physical Properties
Appearance Fluid
Color Green
Odor N/A
Solubility Soluble
*The formulation above is intended for information purposes only based on the best of our knowledge. It is the responsibility of
the customer to undertake the appropriate testing to determine the suitability of the product for their intended use.
COMPOSITION
INCI Qty. % TRADE NAME FUNCTION
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 92.894 Saboderm CSO Emollient
Sorbitan Monolaurate 5.00 Radiasurf 7125 Cleansing agent
Hydrogenated Styrene Butadiene 2.00 Ellamera PER SUST Texturizer

Copolymer 504
Pentaerythrytyl Tetra di Butyl 0.10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant
Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Unicert Yellow 0.004 Unicert Yellow Colorant
Unicert Green 0.002 Unicert Green Colorant

Saboderm is a trademark of SABO S.p.A; Radiasurf 7125 is a trademark from OLEON; TINOGARD is a trademark of BASF. Unicert
is a tradmark of Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
4
EQUIPMENT
- Top stirring laboratory mixer
- Heating plate
PREPARATION
Phase A Phase C
Ellamera PER-SUST 504 2,00 Unicert Yellow 0,004
Saboderm CSO 92,50 Unicert Geen 0,002
Tinogard TT 0,10 Saboderm CSO 0,394
Phase B
Radiasurf 7125 5,00
Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and heat for 30 minutes at 120°C and Mix at 400RPM for
~ 20 Minutes Until a Clear Solution Appears.
Cool Phase A down to 60°C and pour Phase B into Phase A beaker while stirring. Wait until a
white solution appears. Add Phase C ingredients while stirring to colour the solution.
PREPARATION NOTES
To make working with small amounts of colour easier, add 0.1 grams Unicert Green, 0.2
grams Unicert Yellow and 19.7 grams Saboderm to a beaker, mix with a spatula and add 0.4
grams of the mixture to the final product.
PACKAGING
No specific packaging requirements
SAFETY NOTES
- Always be attentive when using mechanical equipment

- Manage all the ingredients with correct PPE in accordance with safety guidelines
- Read the safety document from all the ingredients prior to formulating
Watch video for formulation guide to prepare Green Cleansing Oil
5
Sun Care Oil
Description
A sun care oil formulation exhibiting low viscosity is described.
The formula has been prepared with natural sunflower oil and includes UVA and UVB absorbing
compounds to protect the skin from harmful sunlight. It provides a pleasant feeling and moisture
retention of the skin with the texturizing and film-forming properties of Ellamera BI-THIN™ 602 by
Kraton.
Physical Properties
Appearance Fluid
Color Orange/brown
Odor Oily
Solubility Not soluble in water
SPF 15 (est.)
COMPOSITION
Sunflower oil 38.37 Sunflower Oil Emollient
Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 32.00 DUB PO Emollient
Butyloctyl Salicylate 10.00 Sunsolv BOS Solubilizer and

photostabilizer
Homosalate 5.00 Eusolex HMS UV-B absorber
Octisalate 5.00 Escalol 587 UV-B absorber
Hydrogenated Styrene Isoprene 3.50 Ellamera BI-THIN 602 Film former

Copolymer
Avabenzone 3.00 Parsol 1789 UV-A absorber
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Squalane
2.00 Phytosqualane Emollient
Tocopheryl acetate 1.00 Vitamin E Acetate Antioxidant
Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0.10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant

hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Beta-carotene 0.03 Beta-carotene UV-blocking colorant
* DUB PO is a trademark of Stearinerie Dubois; SunSolv is a trademark of Innospec Performance Chemicals; Eusolex is a trademark
of Merck; Escalol is a trademark of Ashland Specialty Chemical; Parsol is a trademark of DSM; 1789 TINOGARD is a trademark of
BASF.
EQUIPMENT
Top stirring laboratory mixer | Heating plate
PREPARATION
Phase A PHASE C
Ellamera BI-THINTM 602 3.50 Escalol 587 5.00
DUB PO 27.00 Eusolex HMS 5.00
Phytosqualane 2.00 Parsol 1789 3.00
Tinogard TT 0.10 Vitamin E Acetate 1.00
Sunsolv BOS 10.00
PHASE D
PHASE B Beta-carotene 0.03
Sunflower Oil 38.37 DUB PO 5.00
Add Phase A ingredients to a beaker and heat for 20 minutes at 120°C, and mix with a
laboratory mixer at 400 RPM for about 30 minutes until a clear solution appears. Cool down
Phase A to around 100°C and add Phase B into Phase A beaker while stirring.
After Phase B is mixed in, cool down to 60°C and add phase C ingredients. After Phase C
ingredients dissolve, add phase D slowly to the mixture until the desired color has been
reached.
PACKAGING
Test the compatibility with packaging material when using fragrance.
SAFETY NOTES
Read the safety document from all the ingredients prior to formulating
Watch video for formulation guide to prepare Sun Care Oil
7
Concealer Cream
Description
An example of a concealer cream based on a water-in-oil emulsion with medium viscosity is

described. The formula provides a pleasant texture due to the film-forming properties of
Ellamera TER-SET™ 403 by Kraton. This example formulation is creamy to the skin and dries
quickly for easy and long-lasting use.
Physical Properties
Appearance Fluid
Color Tan
Odor Fragrance
Solubility Insoluble
COMPOSITION:
Water 30.00 Water Solvent
Squalane 27.00 Neossance Solvent

Hemisqualane
Talc/iron oxide/hydrogen 12.70 FDP-C-PA White Colorant
dimethicone
Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 6.00 DUB PO Emollient
Hydrogenated Styrene Butadiene 4.50 Ellamera TER-SET 403 Film former

Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Thickening and

Triglyceride/Stearalkonium 3.00 Miglyol Gel T
Emollient
Bentonite/Propylene Carbonate
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Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy)
3.00 DOWSIL ES 5600 Emulsifier
Silyl ethyl Dimethicone
Zinc Oxide 3.00 Zinc Oxide PHARMA Colorant
Polyethylene Wax 3.00 Performalene 400 Wax
Xylitol 2.50 Xivia Xylitol Humectant
Glycerin 2.00 Glycerin Humectant
Sorbitan Isostearate 1.00 Span 120 Emulsifier
Talc/iron oxide/hydrogen 0.80 FDP-C-DA Yellow Colorant

dimethicone
Hexandiol 0.50 Hydrolite 6 Preservative
Sorbitan Caprylate 0.50 Velsan SC Preservative
Talc/Iron oxide/hydrogen 0.15 FDP-C-DA-Black Colorant

dimethicone
Talc/Iron oxide/hydrogen 0.15 FDP-C-DA-Red Colorant
dimethicone
Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0.10 Tinogard TT Antioxidant
Frangrance 0.10 Fragrance Fragrance
* FDP-C-** is a trademark of Nikkol; DUB PO is a trademark of Stearinerie Dubois; MIGLYOL is a trademark of IOI Oleo GmbH;
DOWSIL is a trademark of Dow Corning; XIVIA is a trademark of DuPont; PERFORMALENE is a trademark of Baker Hughes; SPAN
is a trademark of Croda; HYDROLITE is a trademark of Symrise; VELSAN is a trademark of Clariant TINOGARD is a trademark of
BASF.
EQUIPMENT
- Heating plate
- Ultra Turrax homogenizer
- Powder mixer
PREPARATION
PHASE A PHASE B
Ellamera TER-SET 403 4.50 DOWSIL ES 5600 3.00
DUB PO 6.00 Span 120 1.00
Hemisqualane 27.00 Velsan SC 0.50
Performalene 400 3.00 Miglyol Gel T 3.00
Tinogard TT 0.10
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PHASE D
PHASE C Water 30.00
FDP-C-PA White 12.70 Xylitol 2.50
FDP-C-DA-Yellow 0.8 Glycerin 2.00
FDP-C-DA-Black 0.15 Hydrolite 6 0.50
FDP-C-DA-Red 0.15
Zinc Oxide 3.00 PHASE E
Fragrance 0.10
- Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and heat for 30 minutes at 90°C and mix with a
laboratory mixer at 400RPM for about 20 minutes until a clear solution appears.
- Add Phase B ingredients to a beaker and gently homogenize, then pour mixture into Phase
A beaker while stirring.
- Mix Phase C ingredients together using a powder mixer, and slowly add it to beaker
containing phases A+B slowly while stirring for a homogenous mixture.
- Cool down the A+B+C mixture to 60°C and check the Hemisqualane content via weigh scale
and correct if necessary. Homogenise using an Ultra Turrax.
PHASE D
Combine ingredients together until you get a clear solution:
Water 30.00 Xylitol 2.50

Glycerin 2.00 Hydrolite 6 0.50%
Add Phase D solution to the A+B+C beaker while under high stirring.
- Finally, homogenise using the Ultra Turrax for a second time and cool down to about 40 °C
with slow mixing.
- In the final step, cool down to room temperature and add the fragrance.
PREPARATION NOTES
Keep the mixing speed relatively low (± 400 RPM) in Phase A & B to prevent air bubbles from
forming. Control the evaporation of the Hemisqualane before adding the water phase.
PACKAGING
The example formulation for a concealer cream is formulated with Hemisqualane and needs
packaging that protects the evaporation of the volatile solvent during storage and
transportation. Test the compatibility with packaging material when using fragrance.
SAFETY NOTES
Always be attentive when using mechanical equipment
Manage all the ingredients with correct PPE in accordance with safety guidelines.
Hemisqualane can evaporate and always better to cover the vessel and use the good
ventilation. Read the safety document from all the ingredients prior to formulating.
Watch video for Kraton Ellamera™ Concealer Formulation Guide
10
LONG WEAR LIP GLOSS
Description
An example of a long-wear lip gloss formulation for a glossy finish is described. This lip gloss
formula provides long-lasting smoothness, color, and soft feel. Additionally, the formula
provides moisture retention with the film-forming properties of Ellamera™ from Kraton and
the skin-conditioning properties of phytosteryl isostearate.
Physical Properties
Appearance: Viscous Paste
Color: Pigment specific
Odor: Fragrant specific
COMPOSITION
Isododecane 45,35 Isododecane Solvent
Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 20,00 DUB PO Emollient
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene 11,00 Ellamera RAD THICK Film former

Copolymer 501
Caprylic/Capric 10,00 MIGLYOL GEL T Thickening agent
Triglyceride/Stearalkonium and Emollient
Phytosteryl Isostearate 5,00 NIKKOL Phytosteryl Active and
Isostearate Emollient
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Polyethylene Wax 5,00 PERFORMALENE 400 Wax
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene 1,50 Ellamera BI-THIN 402 Thickening agent

Copolymer and film former
D&C RED 30 1,20 SUNCROMA RED30 Color Lake
Titanium Dioxide 0,80 HOMBITAN ANATASE Color Pigment

PHARMA
Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0,10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant

Flavour 0,05 Flavour Flavour
* DUB PO is a trademark of Stearinerie Dubois; MIGLYO is a trademark of IOI Oleo GmbH; PERFORMALENE is a trademark of Baker
Hughes; SUNCROMA is a trademark of Sun Chemical; HOMBITAN is a trademark of Hunstman; TINOGARD is a trademark of BASF.
EQUIPMENT
- Heating plate
- Three-roll mill for pigment grinding
PREPARATION
Phase A Phase B
Isododecane 45,35 Miglyol gel T 10,00
DUB PO 20,0 Phytosteryl isostearate 5,00
Ellamera RAD THICK 501 11,0 Homibitan anatase 0,80
Ellamera BI-THIN 402 1,50 Suncroma DC RED30 1,20
Tinogard TT 0,10
PERFORMALENE 400 PE 5,00 Phase C
Flavour 0,05
Add phase A in a beaker and heat for 30 minutes on 100°C, mixing it with a laboratory mixer
(400 RPM) for roughly 30 minutes until the polymers are melted. After mixing, cool down the
Phase A mixture to 70°C and check the isododecane content via weigh scale and correct it if
necessary.
While phase A is cooling down, prepare the colour phase B. Start by homogenizing the
Miglyol gel T and Phytosteryl isostearate, then slowly add and disperse the Hombitan anatase
and Suncroma DC RED30 and mix / homogenize with a spatula.
Add phase B to the three-roll mill on the smallest setting and mill the colour mixture 3 times,
obtaining a coloured paste.
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Add phase B coloured paste to phase A while stirring. Add the flavour component to the
product at 50°C and cool down to room temperature.
PREPARATION NOTES
Premix the Hombitan Anatase and Suncroma DC RED30 before to add at the liquid part
PACKAGING
Long Wear Lip Gloss is formulated with Isododecane and need packaging that protects the
evaporation of volatile solvent.
SAFETY NOTES
- Manage all the ingredients with gloves and correct PPE
- Isododecane can evaporate and always better to cover the vessel and use good
ventilation
- Read the safety document from all the ingredients prior to formulating.
Watch video for Long Wear Lip Gloss Formulation Guide
13
MOISTURIZING BATH OIL
Description
An example of a moisturizing bath oil formulation providing moisture retention due to the
film-forming properties of Ellamera™ product from Kraton and Vitamin E. The moisturizing
bath oil with a micellar diffusion system disperses moisturizer components, which enable
long-lasting moisturizing effect on the skin.
Physical Properties
Appearance: Liquid Fluid
Color: Pigment specific
Odor: Fragrant specific
COMPOSITION
Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 74,90 DUB PO Protective emollient and

solubilizer for polymer.
PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate 19,00 ZETEMOL HE Non-ionic surfactant,

used as emollient for
skin care products
Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene 4,00 Ellamera PER-SUST Film-former

Copolymer 504
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 0,40 LAMEFORM TGI Emulsifier
Fragrance 1,00 Fragrance Fragrance
Tocopheryl Acetate 0,10 Tocopheryl Acetate Antioxidant, active

molecule for the skin
14
Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0,10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant and
hydroxyhydrocinnamate discolorizing stabilizer
Siddha Sky Blue Oil 0,50 Campo Siddha Colorant

Indra Neelam Yenai
* DUB PO is a trademark of Stearinerie Dubois; ZETEMOL is a trademark of Zchimmer & Schwarz; LAMEFORM and
TINOGARD are trademarks of BASF; CAMPO is a trademark of CAMPO.
EQUIPMENT
- Heating plate
PREPARATION
Phase A
Add Ellamera PER-SUST 504, Tinogard TT DD and the DUB PO to a beaker, and mix with a
laboratory mixer at 100°C until dissolved.
Phase B
Add the Zetemol HE, Lameform TGI to a beaker and stir for another 30 minutes. Add Phase B
mixture to Phase A beaker after the Phase A mixture is cooled down to about 80°C.
Phase C
Add colorant Campo Siddha Indra Neelam Yenai, fragrance and the tocopheryl acetate to a
beaker and mix.
Finally, add the Phase C mixture to the Phase A+B mixture after it is cooled down to room
temperature.
PACKAGING
No restrictions, but always test the compatibility with packaging material when using
fragrances.
SAFETY NOTES
Watch video for Moisturizing Bath Oil Formulation Guide
15
SUNCARE CREAM
Description
An example of a long-lasting suncare cream formulation based on a water-in-oil emulsion with
medium viscosity is described. The formula provides a pleasant texture and moisture retention
with the film-forming properties of Ellamera™ by Kraton. This example formulation does not
contain chemical sunscreen; it is based on physical sun blocking agents such as
hydroxyapatite, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Physical Properties
Appearance Fluid
Color White
Odor Fragrance
Solubility Not soluble in

water
SPF 20 (est.)
COMPOSITION
Water 33,00 Water Solvent
Isododecane 35,50 Isododecane Solvent
Hydroxyapatite 5,00 Apalight EMS Matte agent and

UV sunscreen
booster
Titanium Dioxide 5,00 Titanium Dioxide ST- UV sunscreen
410WB
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene 4,00 Ellamera RAD THICK Film former
Copolymer 501
Caprylic/Capric 3,00 MIGLYOL GEL T Thickening and

Triglyceride/stearalkonium Emollient
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Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)
3,00 DOWSIL ES 5600 Emulsifier
Silyl ethyl Dimethicone
Xylitol 2,50 XIVIA XYLITOL Humectant
Zinc Oxide 2,00 ZINC OXIDE PHARMA UV sunscreen
Glycerin 2,00 GLYCERIN Humectant
Polyethylene Wax 1,80 PERFORMALENE 400 Wax
Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 1,00 DUB PO Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate 1,00 SPAN 120 Emulsifier
Hexandiol 0,50 HYDROLITE 6 Preservative
Sorbitan Caprylate 0,50 VELSAN SC Preservative
Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0,10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant

Frangrance 0,10 Fragrance Fragrance
* DUB PO is a trademark of Stearinerie Dubois; MIGLYO is a trademark of IOI Oleo GmbH; DOWSIL is a trademark of Dow
Corning; XIVIA is a trademark of DuPont; PERFORMALENE is a trademark of Baker Hughes; TINOGARD is a trademark of BASF;
SPAN is a trademark of Croda; HYDROLITE is a trademark of Symrise; VELSAN is a trademark of Clariant.
** Isododecane can be substituted with Hemisqualane or C15-19 Alkane.
EQUIPMENT
- Heating plate
- Ultra Turrax homogenizer
- Powder mixer
PREPARATION
Phase A
Ellamera RAD THICK 501 4,00
DUB PO 1,00 Phase C
Isododecane 35,50 Titanium Dioxide ST-410WB 5,00
Zinc Oxide 2,00
Performalene 400 1,80 Apalight MS 5,00
Tinogard TT 0,10
Phase D
Phase B Water 33,00
DOWSIL ES 5600 3,00 Xylitol 2,50
SPAN 120 1,00 Glycerin 2,00
Velsan SC 0,50 Hydrolite 6 0,50
Miglyol gel T 3,00
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Phase E
Fragrance 0,10
Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and heat for 20 minutes on 90°C and mix with a laboratory
mixer at 400RPM for about 20 minutes until a clear solution appears.
Add Phase B ingredients to a beaker and gently homogenize, then pour mixture into Phase A
beaker while stirring.
Mix Phase C ingredients together using a powder mixer and add Phase C mixture to beaker
containing phases A+B while stirring for a homogenous mixture.
Cool down the A+B+C mixture to 60 deg. C and check the isododecane content via weigh scale and
correct if necessary.
Mix Phase D ingredients together until you get a clear solution.
Add Phase D solution to the A+B+C beaker while stirring.
Finally, homogenise using the Ultra Turrax for a second time and cool down to about 40 °C with
slow mixing.
In the final step, add fragrance and mix until cooled down to room temperature.
PREPARATION NOTES
- Keep the mixing on a relatively slow speed (± 400 RPM) to prevent air bubbles from forming
- Control the evaporation of the Isododecane before to add the water phase
PACKAGING
The example formulation for a suncare cream is formulated with isododecane and needs packaging
that protects the evaporation of the volatile solvent during storage and transportation.
Test the compatibility with packaging material when using fragrance.
SAFETY NOTES
- Isododecane can evaporate and always better to cover the vessel and use the good
ventilation
Watch video for Sun Cream Formulation Guide
18
Bio Shine Hair Serum
DESCRIPTION
An example of a natural-based hair serum with a 90% bio-renewable carbon index is described.
The formula provides a rich, viscous fluid due to the thickening properties of Ellamera PER-SUST
504 by Kraton. This example formulation glides onto the hair smoothly to give an instant shine.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Appearance Clear Fluid
Color Colorless
Odor Fragrance
Viscosity (LV- 950 cP

02, 20 rpm,
25⁰C)
*The formulation above is intended for information purposes only based on the best of our knowledge. It is the responsibility of the
customer to undertake the appropriate testing to determine the suitability of the product for their intended use.
COMPOSITION
INCI Wt % TRADE NAME FUNCTION
Diisooctyl Succinate 79.5 SustOleo DCS Emollient, solvent
Triheptanoin (and) C13-C15 Alkane 9.8 LexFeel WOW-A Emollient, solvent
Hydrogenated Styrene/ Butadiene 8.0 Ellamera PER-SUST 504 Rheology modifier

Copolymer
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate 1.5 LexFeel Shine Shine

enhancement
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 0.5 Olive Oil, Pomace Emollient, solvent
Fragrance 0.5 Snowkissed Sugar (93-0130-15) Fragrance
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Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2 d-α-Tocopheryl Acetate Vitamin E,
antioxidant
* SUSTOLEO and LEXFEEL are trademarks of Inolex; Olive Oil was supplied by Univar Solutions/Arista; Fragrance was supplied by
Lebermuth; Tocopheryl Acetate was supplied by Univar Solutions/DSM.
EQUIPMENT
Laboratory mixer, top stirring | Heating plate
PREPARATION
PHASE A PHASE B
LexFeel WOW-A 9.8 Olive Oil, Pomace 0.5

SustOleo DCS 79.5 d-α-Tocopheryl 0.2
Acetate
LexFeel Shine 1.5 Fragrance 0.5
Ellamera PER-SUST 504 8.0
- Add Phase A fluids in a beaker and begin heating to 90°C with mixing using a laboratory mixer at
200 rpm.
- Add Ellamera polymer to Phase A fluids with mixing during heating. Heat at 90⁰C for 30-60
minutes, or until a homogeneous solution is achieved.
- Cool down the Phase A mixture.
- Add Phase B ingredients once Phase A ≤ 50⁰C.
PREPARATION NOTES
A dispersion blade (or cowles blade) improved dispersion and increased rate of dissolution of the
Ellamera polymer in Phase A.
Alternatively, a homogenizer may be used to disperse/dissolve the Ellamera polymer in Phase A

while heating.
PACKAGING
The example formulation for a hair serum is formulated with emollient oils and needs packaging
that protects against leakage during storage and transportation. Test the compatibility with
packaging material when using fragrance.
SAFETY NOTE
- It is always better to cover the vessel during mixing.
- Review the safety data sheets for all the ingredients prior to formulating.
Watch video for Bio Shine Hair Serum Formulation Guide
20
Creamy Satin Lipstick
DESCRIPTION
An example of a creamy, plum-colored, satin lipstick is described. The formula balances structure
and pay-off through a combination of various waxes and Ellamera BI-THIN 602 by Kraton to delivery
a creamy satin texture to the lips.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Appearance Stick
Color Plum
Odor Unscented
COMPOSITION
Octyldodecanol 20.45 Isofol 20 Alcohol Solvent, emollient
Triheptanoin 20.00 SustOleo MCT Solvent, emollient
Red 7 Lake (CI 15850) (and) 14.40 NWD-7722 Natural Pigment

Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil Wax Dispersion D&C
(and) Heptyl Undecylenate Red 7 Ca Lake
Synthetic Wax 9.00 Performa V 825 Luster

Polymer
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Hydrogenated Styrene/ 8.00 Ellamera BI-THIN 602 Rheology modifier,
Isoprene Copolymer oil thickener
Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00 Lexol IPP Solvent, emollient
C20-C40 Alcohols 6.00 Performacol 425 Structurant

Alcohol
Palm Acid/Adipic Acid/ 5.00 LexFeel Vibrant MB Payoff

Pentaerythritol
Crosspolymer
Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090) (and) 3.60 NWD-2125 Natural Pigment

Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil Wax Dispersion
(and) Heptyl Undecylenate FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake
Trilaurin 3.00 SustOleo TL Solvent, emollient
Polyethylene 3.00 Performalene 400 Structurant

Polyethylene
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 dl-α-Tocopheryl Antioxidant

Acetate
Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.05 Ascorbyl Palmitate Antioxidant
* ISOFOL is a trademark of Sasol; SUSTOLEO, LEXOL, and LEXFEEL are trademarks of Inolex; PERFORMA V, PERFORMACOL, and
PERFORMALENE are trademarks of NuCera; Natural Wax Dispersion pigments were supplied by Univar Solutions/Sun Chemical;
Tocopheryl Acetate and Ascorbyl Palmitate were supplied by Univar Solutions/DSM.
EQUIPMENT
- Laboratory mixer, top stirring
- Heating plate
- Lipstick mold
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PREPARATION
PHASE A PHASE C
SustOleo MCT 20.00 NWD-7722 Natural Wax 14.40

Dispersion D&C Red 7 Ca Lake
Lexol IPP 7.00
Isofol 20 Alcohol 20.45 NWD-2125 Natural Wax 3.60
Dispersion FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake
SustOleo TL 3.00
Ellamera BI-THIN 602 8.00
PHASE D
PHASE B
dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50
Performalene 400 3.00 Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.05
Polyethylene
Performacol 425 Alcohol 6.00
Performa V 825 Polymer 9.00
LexFeel Vibrant MB 5.00
- Combine emollients of Phase A. Begin mixing while heating to 40⁰C.
- At 40⁰C (once SustOleo TL has dissolved), add Ellamera polymer with mixing; continue heating to
95-100⁰C to dissolve the polymer.
- Once polymer has dissolved, add Phase B solids to Phase A with mixing. Return mixture to 95⁰C to
retain good melt mixture.
- Add pigment dispersions (Phase C) to A+B with mixing. Return mixture to 95⁰C to retain good melt
mixture.
- Add antioxidants (phase D) to A+B+C with mixing at 92-95⁰C. Mix 2 minutes.
- Pour into lipstick molds. Chill for thirty minutes and package cold into lipstick tubes.
PREPARATION NOTES
- A dispersion blade (or cowles blade) improved dispersion and increased rate of dissolution of
the Ellamera polymer in Phase A.
- Deaeration may not be necessary if a moderate mixing speed (≤ 400 rpm) can be achieved
with sufficiently large batch size where air is not entrained during mixing. Deaeration was
achieved on lab-scale batches by resting 10 min in an 110⁰C oven before moulding.
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PACKAGING
The example formulation for a lipstick requires lipstick tubes sized to the lipstick mold.
SAFETY NOTES
Watch video for Creamy Satin Lipstick Formulation Guide
24
Facial Primer SPF 30
DESCRIPTION
An example of a matte facial primer delivering sun protection (SPF 30*) is described. The formula
combines silicone elastomers with the film-forming properties of Ellamera BI-THIN 402 by Kraton
to provide a velvety texture and durable facial primer, which blurs imperfections, protects the
skin, and helps makeup apply and look better, longer.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Appearance Translucent gel
Color Colorless to very

light yellow
Odor Light fragrance
Solubility (in water) Insoluble
Viscosity (T-F, 0.5 rpm, 25⁰C) 227,000 cP
Viscosity (T-F, 15 rpm, 25⁰C) 59,000 cP
25
COMPOSITION
INCI Wt % TRADE FUNCTION

NAME
Isodecyl Neopentanoate (and) 50.00 DOWSIL EL-8051 Elastomer,

Dimethicone/Bis Isobutyl PPG- IN Silicone sensorial
20 Crosspolymer Organic
Elastomer Blend
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate 9.97 LexFeel D5 Emollient,

(and) Isododecane solvent
Octocrylene 8.50 Parsol 340 UVB filter
Isododecane (and) 8.00 DOWSIL EL-7314 Elastomer,

Hexyl/Succinyl Dimethicone Silicone sensorial
Crosspolymer Elastomer Blend
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50 Parsol MCX UVB filter
Diisooctyl Succinate 5.00 SustOleo DCS Emollient,

solvent
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 Parsol EHS UVB filter
Butyl 3.00 Parsol 1789 UVA filter

Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Hydrogenated 3.00 Ellamera BI- Film former

Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer THIN 402
Fragrance 0.03 Wild Oats Fragrance

(CF0030777)
* DOWSIL is a trademark of Dow Chemical; SUSTOLEO and LEXFEEL are trademarks of Inolex; PARSOL is a trademark of DSM;
Fragrance was supplied by Clarity Fragrances.
EQUIPMENT
- Laboratory mixer, top stirring, side sweep
- Heating plate
26
PREPARATION
PHASE A PHASE C
SustOleo DCS 5.00 DOWSIL EL-7314 8.00

Parsol EHS 5.00 Silicone Elastomer
Blend
Parsol MCX 7.50 DOWSIL EL-8051 50.00
Parsol 340 8.50 IN Silicone
Organic Elastomer
Parsol 1789 3.00 PHASE
Blend D
PHASE B
LexFeel D5 9.97
Ellamera BI-THIN 402 3.00 PHASE E
Fragrance 0.03
- In side vessel, combine Phase A ingredients. Begin heating to 80-90⁰C with mixing to dissolve
Parsol 1789.
- Add Phase B to Phase A with mixing. Continue heating to 80-90⁰C with mixing to dissolve
polymer. Turn off heat once polymer is dissolved but keep mixing while mixture cools.
- In main vessel, add DOWSIL EL-7314 and begin mixing to soften and "liquify" the elastomer
blend.
- Add DOWSIL EL-8051 IN to the main vessel in increments with mixing to fully blend the two
elastomers (Phase C).
- Slowly add Phase D to Phase C with mixing, giving time for elastomer phase to incorporate the
addition of fluid.
- Add A+B to C+D with mixing.
- Add fragrance (Phase E) with mixing. Mix until homogeneous.
PREPARATION NOTES
Ellamera polymer in Phase A+B. Sweeping the sides of the vessel during mixing is
recommended to produce a homogenous product.
PACKAGING
The example formulation for a facial primer is formulated with silicone elastomers and emollient
oils and needs packaging that protects against leakage during storage and transportation. Test
the compatibility with packaging material when using fragrance
.SAFETY NOTES
Watch video for Facial Primer SPF30 Formulation Guide
27
Smooth Glide Deo Stick
DESCRIPTION
An example of an anhydrous deodorant stick is described. The formula balances pay-off through a
combination of Ellamera BI-THIN 402 and Ellamera TER-SET 603 by Kraton to thicken the oils,
eliminate syneresis, and minimize wax structuring agents. The formula delivers odor-fighting
ingredients in a smooth glide format to delivery underarm protection.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Appearance Stick
Color White
Odor Fragrance
Solubility (in water) Insoluble
COMPOSITION
C13-14 Isoalkane 22.0 Isopar M Fluid Solvent
Cetyl Alcohol 20.0 Adol 52 Cetyl Alcohol NF Structurant
Brassica Alcohol 12.5 SustOleo BA Structurant
Triethyl Citrate 12.0 CITROFOL AI Extra Odor control/

cosolvent
28
Trilaurin 10.0 SustOleo TL Dry feel
emollient
C20-40 Alcohols 9.0 Performacol 425 Structurant

Alcohol
Kaolin 4.0 Kaolin Clay TH-1 Texturizer/ dry

feel
Hydrogenated Styrene/ 3.0 Ellamera BI-THIN 402 Rheology

Isoprene Copolymer modifier
Stearoxytrimethylsilane (and) 2.0 DOWSIL 580 Wax Glidant, sensory

Stearyl Alcohol
Hydrated Silica 2.0 Syloid 9005 PC Sebum

absortion, odor
control, dry feel
Fragrance 2.0 Red Rose Apple (94- Fragrance

4003-23)
Hydrogenated Styrene/ 1.0 Ellamera TER-SET 603 Rheology

Butadiene Copolymer modifier
Methylheptylglycerin 0.5 Lexgard MHG Natural Bacteriastatic

MB agent
* ISOPAR is a trademark of ExxonMobil; ADOL is a trademark of Peter Cremer; SUSTOLEO and LEXGARD are trademarks of Inolex; CITROFOL
is a trademark of Jungbunzlauer; PERFORMACOL is a trademark of NuCera; Kaolin Clay was supplied by Univar Solutions; DOWSIL is a
trademark of Dow Chemical; SYLOID is a trademark of Grace; Fragrance was supplied by Lebermuth.
EQUIPMENT
- Laboratory mixer, top stirring | Heating plate | Homogenizer
29
PREPARATION
PHASE A PHASE C
Isopar M Fluid 22.0 Kaolin Clay TH-1 4.0

CITROFOL AI Extra 12.0 Syloid 9005 PC 2.0
SustOleo TL 10.0
Ellamera TER-SET 603 1.0 PHASE D
Ellamera BI-THIN 402 3.0 Lexgard MHG Natural 0.5
MB
Fragrance 2.0
PHASE B
Performacol 425 9.0
Alcohol
SustOleo BA 12.5
Adol 52 Cetyl 20.0
Alcohol NF
DOWSIL 580 2.0
Wax
- Combine Phase A emollients. Heat to 40⁰C with mixing.
- At 40⁰C (once SustOleo TL has dissolved), add Ellamera polymers with mixing; continue heating to
95-100⁰C to dissolve the polymers.
- Once polymers have dissolved, add Phase B waxes sequentially to Phase A with mixing. Maintain
melt mixture’s temperature ≥ 70⁰C. Return mixture to 75⁰C to retain good melt mixture.
- Disperse Phase C solids into A+B using an homogenizer (3000-5000 rpm).
- Cool mixture to 75-77⁰C and add Phase D ingredients sequentially with mixing.
- Pour into AP/DEO stick molds at ≥ 75⁰C. Cool to room temperature before use.
PREPARATION NOTES
Ellamera polymers in Phase A. Each wax’s melt endotherm (Phase B) will reduce the temperature of
the batch. Add waxes slowly enough to maintain temperature ≥ 70⁰C. To prevent shock—product
cracking from rapid loss in temperature—in very small sticks (15 to 30 mL), filled packages were
cooled in two steps: (1) 30 minutes at 49⁰C and then (2) overnight at ambient temperature (~21⁰C).
PACKAGING: The example formulation for a deodorant stick requires AP/DEO-style packaging.
SAFETY NOTES
Always be attentive when using mechanical equipment. Manage all the ingredients with correct
PPE in accordance with safety guidelines. It is always better to cover the vessel during mixing.
Review the safety data sheets for all the ingredients prior to formulating.
Watch video for Smooth Glide Deo Stick Formulation Guide
30
31

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Ellamera™

Multifunctional Rheology Modifiers

Ellamera copolymer products can alter the rheology

Ellamera grades may be used as a gelling agent or to

Color Cosmetics Texture and Touch

• Lip gloss • Customizable texture

• Customizable color effects

Haircare Pro-natural & Sustainable

• Low residuals & hypoallergenic

INCI Qty. % TRADE NAME FUNCTION

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 92.894 Saboderm CSO Emollient

Sorbitan Monolaurate 5.00 Radiasurf 7125 Cleansing agent

Hydrogenated Styrene Butadiene 2.00 Ellamera PER SUST Texturizer

Unicert Green 0.002 Unicert Green Colorant

- Always be attentive when using mechanical equipment

Watch video for formulation guide to prepare Green Cleansing Oil

A sun care oil formulation exhibiting low viscosity is described.

Solubility Not soluble in water

INCI Qty. % TRADE NAME FUNCTION

Sunflower oil 38.37 Sunflower Oil Emollient

Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 32.00 DUB PO Emollient

Butyloctyl Salicylate 10.00 Sunsolv BOS Solubilizer and

Octisalate 5.00 Escalol 587 UV-B absorber

Hydrogenated Styrene Isoprene 3.50 Ellamera BI-THIN 602 Film former

Avabenzone 3.00 Parsol 1789 UV-A absorber

Tocopheryl acetate 1.00 Vitamin E Acetate Antioxidant

Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0.10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant

Beta-carotene 0.03 Beta-carotene UV-blocking colorant

Watch video for formulation guide to prepare Sun Care Oil

An example of a concealer cream based on a water-in-oil emulsion with medium viscosity is

INCI Qty. % TRADE NAME FUNCTION

Water 30.00 Water Solvent

Squalane 27.00 Neossance Solvent

Hydrogenated Styrene Butadiene 4.50 Ellamera TER-SET 403 Film former

Caprylic/Capric Thickening and

Zinc Oxide 3.00 Zinc Oxide PHARMA Colorant

Polyethylene Wax 3.00 Performalene 400 Wax

Xylitol 2.50 Xivia Xylitol Humectant

Glycerin 2.00 Glycerin Humectant

Sorbitan Isostearate 1.00 Span 120 Emulsifier

Talc/iron oxide/hydrogen 0.80 FDP-C-DA Yellow Colorant

Sorbitan Caprylate 0.50 Velsan SC Preservative

Talc/Iron oxide/hydrogen 0.15 FDP-C-DA-Black Colorant

Combine ingredients together until you get a clear solution:

Water 30.00 Xylitol 2.50

Watch video for Kraton Ellamera™ Concealer Formulation Guide

Appearance: Viscous Paste

Color: Pigment specific

Odor: Fragrant specific

Solubility Not soluble in water

INCI Qty. % TRADE NAME FUNCTION

Isododecane 45,35 Isododecane Solvent

Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate 20,00 DUB PO Emollient

Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene 11,00 Ellamera RAD THICK Film former

Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene 1,50 Ellamera BI-THIN 402 Thickening agent

D&C RED 30 1,20 SUNCROMA RED30 Color Lake

Titanium Dioxide 0,80 HOMBITAN ANATASE Color Pigment

Pentaerythrytyl tetra di butyl 0,10 Tinogard TT DD Antioxidant

Flavour 0,05 Flavour Flavour

Watch video for Long Wear Lip Gloss Formulation Guide

Appearance: Liquid Fluid

Color: Pigment specific

Odor: Fragrant specific