EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MOSCOW
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MOSCOW
Main Contributors:
Christopher and Melanie Rice
 Contents
How to Use
this Guide 6
Project Editor Marcus Hardy
Art Editor Marisa Renzullo
Editors Catherine Day, Jane Oliver, Lynda Warrington
Designers Gillian Andrews, Carolyn Hewitson,
Paul Jackson, Elly King, Nicola Rodway
Visualizer Joy Fitzsimmons
Map Co-Ordinators Emily Green, David Pugh

Main Contributors
Christopher Rice, Melanie Rice

Maps
Maria Donnelly (Colourmap Scanning Ltd)

Photographer
Demetrio Carrasco
Socialist-Realist sculpture of Soviet
Illustrators
Stephen Conlin, Richard Draper, Stephen Gyapay,
farm workers at the All-Russian
Claire Littlejohn, Chris Orr & Associates
Exhibition Centre (see p147)

Printed and bound in China

Introducing
First American edition 1998
14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Moscow
Published in the United States by Great Days in Moscow 10
Dorling Kindersley Limited
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Putting Moscow
Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015
on the Map 14
Copyright 1998, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
The History of
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, Moscow 18
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library Moscow through
ISSN 1542-1554
the Year 34
ISBN 978-1-46542-644-4
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with Moscow at a
European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
Glance 38

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
The Cathedral of the Annunciation in the
Front cover main image: The Cathedral of the Nativity in the Kremlin, Suzdal Kremlin (see p62)
Detail of the gilded dancing statues on the Fountain of the Republics, All-Russian Exhibition Centre
 Moscow
Area by Area
The Kremlin
54

Arbatskaya 70

Tverskaya 86

Red Square and Kitay

Gorod 100

Zamoskvoreche
116 The vaulted main hall of the Faceted Palace (see p64)

Further Afield 128 Getting to General Index

Moscow 216 246
Two Guided
Walks 148 Getting around Acknowledgments
Moscow 220 258
Beyond Moscow
154 Moscow Phrase Book
Street Finder 228 260

Ulitsa Arbat – popular for its shops and

eateries (see pp72)

Travellers’ Needs
Where to Stay
172

Where to Eat and

Drink 180

Shops and
Markets 192

Entertainment
in Moscow 198

Survival Guide
Practical Information
206 St Basil’s Cathedral
(see pp110–11)
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide will help you to get the most from describes all the important sights, using
your visit to Moscow. It provides expert maps, photographs and illustrations. The
recommendations together with detailed sights are arranged in three groups: those
practical information. Introducing Moscow in Moscow’s central districts, those a little
maps the city and sets it in its geographical, further afield, and finally those beyond
historical and cultural context, and the Moscow which require one- or two-day
quick-reference timeline on the history excursions. Hotel, restaurant and
pages gives the dates of Russia’s rulers and entertainment recommendations can be
significant events. Moscow at a Glance is an found in Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival
overview of the city’s main attractions. Guide includes tips on everything from
Moscow Area by Area starts on page 52 and transport and telephones to personal safety.

Finding your Way around the Sightseeing Section

Each of the seven sightseeing areas is colour- illustrating a particularly interesting part of the
coded for easy reference. Every chapter opens area; for sights further away, by a regional map.
with an introduction to the area it covers, A simple numbering system relates sights to
describing its history and character. For central the maps. Important sights are covered by
districts, this is followed by a Street-by-Street map several pages.

THE KREMLIN
Citadel of the Tsars, headquarters of the
Soviet Union and now the residence of the
MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

the Cathedral of the Assumption and the

Faceted Palace, among other buildings,
 55

1 Introduction to the Area

For easy reference, the sights are
numbered and plotted on an area
Russian president, for centuries the Kremlin in a fascinating fusion of Early-Russian
has been a symbol of the power of the State. and imported Renaissance styles (see p46).
In 1156, Prince Yuriy Dolgorukiy chose the
confluence of the Moskva and Neglinnaya
The Kremlin did not escape the
architectural vandalism of the 1930s,
map, with metro stations shown
rivers as the site for the first wooden Kremlin when it was closed and several of its
(kreml means “fortress”). Late in the 15th
century, Tsar Ivan III (see p20) invited
several leading Italian architects to build
churches and palaces were destroyed on
Stalin’s orders (see p77). Only in 1955, two
years after his death, was the Kremlin
where helpful. The key sights (great
a sumptuous new complex. They designed partially reopened to the public.
buildings, museums and open-air
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Cathedrals
5 Cathedral of the Assumption pp60–61
6 Cathedral of the Archangel
q Great Kremlin Palace
e Saviour’s Tower
r Presidential Administration
sights) are listed by category.
7 Cathedral of the Annunciation t Senate
9 Church of the Deposition of the Robe y Arsenal

Historic Buildings and Monuments Museums

1 Trinity Tower 3 Patriarch’s Palace
2 State Kremlin Palace w State Armoury pp66–7
4 Ivan the Great Bell Tower
8 Faceted Palace
0 Terem Palace
Gardens
u Alexander Gardens A locator map shows Colour-coded
MANEZHNAYA
PLOSHCHAD
where you are in thumb tabs mark
relation to other areas each area.
of the city centre.
У Л ИЦA

See also Street Finder

maps 6 & 7
Biblioteka imeni Lenina/
Aleksandrovskiy Sad
230m (250 yards)
SENATSKAYA
PLOSHCHAD
AЯ

TROIT
SKAYA
E ЖH

Locator map
ULITS
A
M AH
ULI TSA

IVANOVSKAYA
PLOSHCHAD
TAYNITSKIY
AYA

GARDEN
E ZHN

SOBORNAYA
PLOSHCHAD
SA
Я
A ULIT
РЕЖНА
M AN

SKAY
НАБЕ
КАЯ
OVIT
ЛЕВС
BOR

Borovitskaya TAYNITSKIY КРЕМ

A
250m (270 yards)
N AY
GARDEN
EZH
BOROVITSKAYA A BER c к в
а
PLOSHCHAD A N M o
AY v a
SK s k
L EV o
EM
 
M
KR 56 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA THE KREMLIN 57
0 metres 200

Bolshoi 0 yards 200

Kamennyy
Most
Street by Street: The Kremlin 9 Church of the Deposition
of the Robe T VERSKAYA
RED SQUARE
AND
KITAY GOROD
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This graceful church was
The splendid St Andrew’s Hall (Throne Hall) in the GreatThe Kremlin
Kremlin Palace is home to the Russian
For keyspresident and
to symbols see the
back flapseat of his the domestic church of the
Practical Information
administration. As a result less than half of it is accessible to the Map 7 A1 & A2. Tel (495) 697
Ticket metropolitans and patriarchs. 0349. Open 10am–5pm Fri–Wed.
public, but highlights including the State Armoury, the Patriarch’s office KREMLIN & Tickets (including separate
Palace and the churches in Cathedral Square are open to visitors. tickets for the State Armoury)
Christians have worshipped on this site for more than eight Church of the Twelve a are sold at the Kremlin entrance
skv
Mo and separately at some sights.
centuries, but their early stone churches were demolished Apostles (see p59) ZAMOSKVORECHE
7 complex, but not buildings.
in the 1470s to make way for the present magnificent Locator Map 8 English (book in advance
See Street Finder maps 6 & 7
ensemble of cathedrals. In imperial times, these were on (495) 697 4115). 9 State
Armoury. = ∑ kreml.ru
The area shaded in pink the setting for great state occasions such as
coronations, baptisms and burials.
The Tsar Cannon,
Transport
q Biblioteka imeni Lenina,
cast in 1586, Borovitskaya. @ 6, К.  1, 2,
is shown in greater detail on the 1 Trinity Tower
Napoleon marched in triumph
through this gate when
weighs a massive
40 tonnes.
12, 33.

Street-by-Street map. he entered the Kremlin in

1812 (see pp25–7). He left
defeated a month later.
0 metres

0 yards
50

50
3 Patriarch’s
Palace
This imposing
palace, rebuilt
2 State Kremlin Palace for Patriarch
Originally built in 1961 Nikon in 1652–
for Communist Party 6, now houses
congresses, the palace the Museum of
is now used for a range 17th-Century Life
of cultural events. and Applied Art.

0 Terem Palace
A chequered roof
and 11 golden
cupolas topped Tsar Bell 4 Ivan the Great Bell Tower
by crosses are all (see p59) When the third storey was
that is visible of added to this beautiful octagonal
this hidden jewel bell tower in 1600, it became
of the Kremlin. the tallest building in Russia.
q Great Kremlin Palace
The palace contains several vast 6 Cathedral of the Archangel
ceremonial halls. The sumptuous The tomb of Tsarevich Dmitry,

2 Street-by-Street Map stucco work of St George’s Hall the younger son of Ivan
provides a magnificent backdrop the Terrible, is one of many
for state receptions. Its marble found in this cathedral.
walls are inscribed with the

This gives a bird’s-eye view of names of military heroes.

interesting and important parts of Cathedral Square

each sightseeing area, with accurate 8 Faceted Palace

Two Italian architects, Marco Ruffo
and Pietro Solario, constructed

drawings of all the buildings within w . State Armoury

The State Armoury was designed by
this striking Renaissance palace
between 1485 and 1491.
5 . Cathedral of
the Assumption

them. The numbering of the sights Konstantin Ton to complement the Great
Kremlin Palace. Constructed in 1844–51,
this building is now a museum. It houses
the stunning imperial collections of
Borovitskaya
Tower, and
entrance if
7 Cathedral of the Annunciation
Frescoes cover the walls and ceiling of this
cathedral. In the dome above the iconostasis
This 12th-century painting of
St George the Warrior is one
of the oldest surviving Russian
icons. It forms part of the
Key

ties in with the preceding area map decorative and applied art and the priceless
State Diamond Fund
visiting State
Armoury only. Suggested route
is a painting of Christ Pantocrator, above tiers
of pictures of angels, prophets and patriarchs.
iconostasis in the cathedral’s
richly decorated interior.

and with the fuller descriptions on

the pages that follow.
Suggested
walking route
 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7

Moscow Area Map 16  INTRODUCING MOSCOW PUTTING MOSCOW ON THE MAP  17

Central Moscow
The coloured areas shown on this Most of Moscow’s sights are situated in the city centre,
within the area bounded by the Garden Ring and the
Mayakovskaya
TV
ER
SK
AY
A Y
BU
LV
AR
PETRO
VS KIY
BUL
VAR
Upper

UL
map (see pp16–17) are the five main
ULI NO ROZ
Boulevard Ring. In this book the centre has been ST Monastery HD ESTV 0 metres 400

У YA
Museum of the TS RA of St Peter EN S K IY BU LVA R SRETENS

Я VA
K A ST R KIY
BUL

TR
divided into five sightseeing areas, while two further LO Revolution PE Convent of the

ROZHDESTVENKA
0 yards 400

А DO
IY V

EK

U LI
U Chekhovskaya SK Nativity of
RE

AR
HP
С КL SA

K
OV
PE

BO
sections cover the outskirts and day trips into the the Virgin

RU
PUSHKIN TR

PE R EULO
Sandunovskiy

TS
Tverskaya PE

LSH

A
DN
SQUARE

И Н BO

BO
Baths BOL KI S ELN

NK
A
M

OY

YY
Y Y PER Turgenevskaya Chistye prudy

KIY
countryside. Each of the central areas has a

AL
PUSHKINSKAYA

PE
sightseeing areas into which central

KO

LD

PE
ДР L

VS
PLOSHCHAD

AY

R
КУ A U

YA
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AE
Menshikov’s

T R O VKA
distinctive character, with the sights in each

HI
R

M
OL

SA

M ILYU T IN S K I Y
NEGLINNAY
NS

АЯ
Tower

AY

LU B
ONN
M

IT
CH

KIY

I TR
ER

ULITSA
UL

ЦК
one lying within easy walking distance of

Д О N SK
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R
AY

PE
PER Я -

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AR
U LI

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OV

KIY
A

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MXAT Gorky IY PER

BOL
LNYY В А

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RE
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SK
each other. All of these sights are also TS Y

ELS
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ULO

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Art Theatre TVERSKAYA OV KUZNETSKIY MO PO
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PR
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KA
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PLOSHCHAD

Moscow has been divided for this

L

ULI

BU
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KIY M
well served by public transport. Moscow

K
Kuznetskiy

OV
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UL

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ARK

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Most

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R EN D S QU AR E &

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UL
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TVERSKAYA

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IT

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KI

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Chekhov House- LUBYANSKAYA PL.

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Theatre

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Museum PR

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P

KA

ON
NYY

TV
TRAL

ER

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АЯ

PE
TEA Mayakovsky KA

LE

YP
Gorky THEATRE SQUARE

guide. Each is covered in a full

MAL KR O V

RE
AYA Lubyanka

LU
Stanislavskiy TEATRALNAYA PL

UL
House- Museum A PO

SKI
NIKITSKA

УЛ
R

BY

OK
BO YA ULITS House- PE Hotel ITS

SA
Museum

SEN
Teatralnaya

AN
UL

NO
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U LIT
AYA

YY
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SK
A

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History

ZNE
PL.
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А
ULO
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TN
NI K I MA R O S

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NIKITSKIE

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YU
T SK AYA Okhotnyy Ploshchad PR

LO
of Moscow UL

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AR
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K AY
UL VOROTA

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Ryad

GA

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BOL Hotel Revolyutsii

PE
Museum Kitay RE

SPA
VA NIKIT PE

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PL

K
SKAT

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NI
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SK

KO

RO
SOG
ERT A

chapter in the Moscow Area by Area

ME
KA NYY Museum of

KI
KH

KIT
Church of

NI
LEB MANEZHNAYA Kazan Monastery of the

VS K I Y
YA

RZLY

LU
Eastern Peoples

I Y PE

NI

LINI
NY PLOSHCHAD

TS
R
Y PERE UL Cathedral Epiphany St Vladimir

BY
ST
ULO ITS IY

IY B ULVA

AKO

KI

SHC
AN
K Resurrection

A
KA
A VSK

TRUBNIKOVSK

PER VSKIY

IPA
PER

RA
KALA ULOK
HLO

P ER
Y

SK
EUL Gate IN

VSK

HE
A OK

TE
PE IY

PERE
UL OK IL

PER

IY
KH

YA
SK
LIN

BU L V A

VS
IT

KISLO
R
GUM BE

VS
A

EB

IY P

SHN

BU
SA

S KIY
PR.
KIY
OV
Moscow I TS ZA

SOGL

KI
PL
Lenin UL

RY
UL

AN
Hotel National Ivanovskaya

Y
ER

YY
Old University

AEV
BOL

LV A
PER
PL

PE
BN
ROM
section (pp52–127). The areas are
Mausoleum

BORI
VARVARSKIE Convent

R
YY

KOP
Located in the heart of Tverskaya, close House of UL

R
UL BOL MOLCHAN RED SQUARE Church of the VOROTA
IT

R
UL

PE
Lermontov Friendship Manège

POD
OVKA Senate KRASNAYA PL S
Trinity in Nikitniki

N OVI NS K

R
UL VOZD
to the Bolshoi Theatre (see pp92–3), the House-Museum VI Arsenal

A
ZHENKA PODKO LOKOLNYY PER
RVARKA

R
ARBAT Biblioteka
ULITSA NOVYY ARBAT UL VA
KREMLIN

SO

VA
National (see p91) is an eclectic mixture SQUARE

KIY
Shchusev im Lenina

LY

B UL
ARBATSKAYA Museum of St Basil’s

AN
of Style Moderne and Classical style. Chambers

ORODS
Aleksandrovskiy Old
AYA UL Т PLOSHCHAD
RSK БА Architecture Cathedral of Cathedral English of the

KA
Sad

also highlighted on other maps

Skryabin

PROEZD

Y
ITO АР

УЛ

H N AYA
POZ Spaso House- Arbatskaya the Assumption Court Romanov KI
ZS

BOL MOSKVORETSKIY
KO M А Great

BOLSHOY AFANASEVSKIY

ВСКИЙБ
ИЦ

KITAYG
House Museum UL Borovit- Boyars YA U
УЛ ZN
AM skaya Kremlin Cathedral of
OY Palace

A PL
B AT EN

NEZ
ENN PER the Archangel
KAMODY AR KA M OS K V OR E TS K A
YA NAB

ГОГОЛЕ
SLOB A Cathedral of the NAB
TS Pashkov

SMOLENSKAY
PER

MA
I ER EZ
IY UL Mosk
A R B A T S K A Y A
ITSK House State Annunciation va HN

throughout the book. In Moscow

MAN Armoury Mo AY
KA R KAYA YA cкв A
Pushkin

LEVSKIY BUL
VS HNA а
Melnikov LE EREZ

UL IY
Smolenskaya Museum EM NAB

MOST
RE ZH
OK
House EK YA
VRAZH

PL
KR

PE YA
of Fine Arts KA
VTSEV

OTN

LEB
YS
LOK SI Malyy

STAROKONYUSHEN NYY PER

B FI
Pushkin PEREU
NA SO Moskvoretskiy

BO
Museum of

PER

PEREULOK
IKOV
House- A Most

SMO

KA
GO
Chugunyy

LSH
Private

Moc KAY
N SA

at a Glance (pp38–51), for example,

ква
Most

VSKIY
SENNAY
Museum ULIT

GO
Collections AYA

OY
HO

S
OTN

PYA
LENSKAPL
LK

EN
BOL AYA

P E R E U LO K

KA
DEN
Kropot- VO A HN
BOLOTNAYA AY REZ

UL
Mo HIST
V L A SE
Cathedral PLOSHCHAD HN

ME

TNIT
kinskaya BE

EZH
UL of Christ the EZ NA

a
GAGAR

NN
A

EC
INS KIY BER

skv
PER EULOK
NA

SKAYA
Redeemer Church of the

NY

PR

YY
PL

BOL
YA-
PRECHISTENSKIE A Resurrection
КА

YP

1-Y
AYA

MO

Y
A
ЕН
PRECH VOROTA TN

YK PEREUL
SK in Kadashi

E REU
ISTEN LO

BOL ORDYNKA
they help you locate the most СТ
SKIY EV

ST

AD ASH OK
BO

SMO
ASH

ULITSA
PE
ЧИ
K R AD

LO K
РЕ
LO CH
Malyy K

TOL
REU IST

MAMACHE
П

EVSK
PE YY Kamennyy Novokuznetskaya

LEN SKI
IY А

L
PER most
SK MAL Ц

IY
И

STA
Ulitsa Arbat VS
HIN LE
PE VSHI У
Л
Tretyakov

PER
RO
LLE

VSK
Running the length of what was a BO R NS A Gallery

KR
K Tretyakovskaya

MO
KI

UL B
Y BU
EN

IY
important sights that no visitor

OP PER
Y

BO
suburb in 15th-century Moscow, ulitsa

OT
ST

NE
HI

KI

NOVOKU

L SH
NS
KY

TNY
Arbat (see pp72–3) is today a crowded, EC

LVAR
PR Church of

AY
Church of

Y
pedestrianized street, lined with shops A St Clement

A TAT
L PO
TS St Nicholasin Pyzhy
LI

Z N ETS
УЛ БОЛ ОРДЫНКА

ORDYNKA
and restaurants. U

AR
should miss. The maps’ coloured

Я УЛ

S KA
LYA

PEREU

KAY
Convent of

YA
A UL.
SS Martha

NK

UL
OK

ПЯТНИЦКА
LOK
and Mary UL
St Basil’s Cathedral

I T SA
RE

UL
PE

A
IY
Located in Red Square (see

BA
SK

MALAYA
OV

KH
AK

NO
p108), west of the historic

borders match the coloured thumb

У Л Б О Л П ОЛ Я
NY

R
SH

VO

USH
VI
district of Kitay Gorod,

KU
PER

INA
OKUZNETSKIY

ZN
St Basil’s (see pp110–11)
ZAMOSKVORECHE NOV

ETS
1-YY

A UL
is probably Russia’s

KAY
most enduring image.

A ULI
UL BOL ORDYNKA
tabs at the top corner of each page.

K AY

3-IY MOEREULOK
Tropinin Bakhrushin

U L I S TA
Theatre

TSA
Museum 5-YY VSKIY

P
Tretyakov Gallery Museum

TS

NETCH I K OV
TCHIKO
MONE OK

НК
PEREUL

NI
Across the river from Paveletskaya

AT
А
(circle)
Moscow’s other main

PY

SKIY
The Kremlin sights, the Tretyakov OVAYA Key
A VAL
The heart of the city, the Kremlin (see pp54–69) Gallery (see pp120–23) ULITS
has dominated Russian life for over 800 years. Its houses a vast collection Major sight
buildings are from the 15th to 20th centuries. of Russian art. Place of interest

For keys to symbols see back flap

Numbers refer to each sight’s Practical information lists all the

position on the area map and its information you need to visit every sight,
place in the chapter. including a map reference to the Street Finder
maps (pp228–45)

68

e
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Saviour’s Tower
Спасская башня
Spasskaya bashnya
The Kremlin. Map 7 B1.
using Saviour’s Gate, even the
tsar, had to indicate respect
for the icon by taking his hat
off. The icon was removed after
the Revolution.
Presidential Administration. The
building was originally used as
a training school for Red Army
officers, and later as the
headquarters of the Presidium
THE KREMLIN  69

3 Detailed information on each sight

Rising majestically above Red
Square to a height of 70 m (230
ft), Saviour’s Tower is named
after an icon of Christ installed
over its gate in 1648. The gate is
no longer open to the public,
but it used to be the Kremlin’s
main entrance. Every person
All the important sights are described
individually. They are listed to follow
Saviour’s Tower was built in of the Supreme Soviet, an
two stages. The lower part was
designed by Italian architect
Pietro Solario in 1491. Bazhen
executive arm of the Soviet
parliament. Today it is home
to part of the Russian
the numbering on the area map at
Ogurtsov and Englishman presidential administration.
Christopher Galloway added
the upper part and tent roof
in 1625. Originally the chimes
the start of the section. The key to
of the clock played the
Preobrazhenskyy March and
Kol’ Slaven Nash Gospod’ v
Sione. Now they play the
the symbols summarizing practical
Russian National Anthem.

r Presidential
The Presidential Administration
The Neo-Classical Senate building, with St Nicholas Tower in the background information is on the back flap.
Administration t Senate central, domed rotunda, from Architects Aleksandr Bakarev, gardens is an obelisk erected in
Администрация Сeнaт which the Russian flag flies. Ivan Tamanskiy, Ivan 1913 to mark 300 years of the
Президента Senat From 1918 to 1991, the Mironovskiy and Evgraf Tyurin Romanov dynasty. The imperial
Administraya Presidenta Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
Senate housed the Soviet were commissioned to design eagle was taken down after the
Closed to public. government. Lenin had his a new Arsenal. Their attractive Revolution and the inscription
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
office here and his family yellow and white Neo-Classical was replaced by the names of
Closed to public.
Completed in 1790, this lived in a flat on the top floor. building was finished in 1828. revolutionary thinkers, such as
Two important religious Neo-Classical building was During World War II the Red The Arsenal was constructed Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.
institutions, the Monastery of constructed to house several Army Supreme Command, as a storehouse for weapons, The Tomb of the Unknown
the Miracles and the Convent of of the Senate’s departments. headed by Stalin, was based ammunition and other military Soldier, a short distance away,
the Ascension, used to stand Designed by Matvey Kazakov (see in the building. supplies. Around 750 cannons, was unveiled in 1967. Its eternal
Saviour’s Tower, once the main entrance here. They were demolished in pp46–7), who regarded it as his Today the Senate is the including some that were flame was lit with a torch
to the Kremlin 1929 to make way for the best work, it is triangular, with a official seat of the president captured from Napoleon’s from the flame at the Field of
of the Russian Federation. retreating troops, are lined up Mars in St Petersburg. It burns
outside. Now the command for all the Russians who died
Kremlin Towers post of the Kremlin guard, the in World War II. The body of a
There are 19 towers in the walls of the Kremlin, with a bridge leading from the Trinity Tower interior and much of the exte- soldier is buried beneath the
to a 20th, the Kutafya Tower. In 1935 the double-headed imperial eagles were removed from rior of the Arsenal are strictly monument, which bears an
the five tallest towers and replaced 2 years later with stars made of red glass, each weighing out of bounds to visitors. inscription, “Your name is
between 1 and 1.5 tonnes. Corner Arsenal Tower unknown, your deeds immortal”.
In 1996, a huge shopping
u Alexander
Borovitskaya
A visitors’ checklist provides the
Annunciation Tower Trinity Tower (see p58) Middle Arsenal St Nicholas Tower is the
tower through which
complex was constructed
Tower Armoury Tower Commandant’s Tower Tower (hidden) Gardens beneath Manezhnaya
Minin and Pozharskiy (see
p111) stormed the Kremlin. Александровский сад ploshchad, the large square to
Senate Tower
Aleksandrovskiy sad
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
the north of Alexander Gardens.
practical information you will need to
Corner Arsenal Tower with the Arsenal and Designed by architect Osip
St Nicholas Tower Bove (see p47) in 1821,
these gardens are named after
plan your visit.
Water y Arsenal Tsar Alexander I, who presided
Tower Арсенал over the restoration of the city,
Arsenal including the Kremlin, after the
The Secret Napoleonic Wars. Before the
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1. Closed to
Tower has an
public.
gardens were built, the
underground Saviour’s Neglinnaya river, part of the
passage leading Tower Peter the Great ordered the Kremlin moat, was channelled
to the river. It
was used to
Arsenal to be built in 1701, but 6 0 The
underground.  Monly
O Svisible
COW AREA BY AREA THE KREMLIN  61
Tsar’s Tower various setbacks, including a fire reminder of its presence is
obtain water
during sieges. Tocsin Tower in 1711, delayed its completion the stone bridge linking the
Constantine and until 1736. In 1812 the building Kutafya and Trinity towers.
First Nameless Tower Peter’s Helena Tower 0 metres 100 was partly blown up by
5 Cathedral of the Assumption
In front of the Middle Arsenal Path through Alexander Gardens, with the
Scenes from the Life
of Metropolitan Peter
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Second Nameless Tower Tower Beklemishevskaya Tower 0 yards 100 Napoleon’s army (see pp25–7). Tower in Успенский собор
the northern half of the Trinity Tower behind This 15th-century icon was
Uspenskiy sobor Practical Information
made in the workshop of
Kremlin. Map 7 A1. Open 10am–
Dionysius, albeit not by the
From the early 14th century, the Cathedral of the Assumption was the most 5pm Fri–Wed. &  religious
master himself. Located on
important church in Moscow. It was here that princes were crowned and the holidays. ∑ kreml.ru
the cathedral’s south wall, it
metropolitans and patriarchs of the Orthodox Church were buried. In the depicts events in the life of this Transport
1470s Ivan the Great (see p20) decided to build a more imposing cathedral, religious and political leader. q Alexandrovskiy sad, Biblioteka
imeni Lenina, Borovitskaya. @ 6,
to reflect the growing might of the nation during his reign. When the first К. v 1, 2, 12, 16, 33.
version collapsed, possibly in an earthquake, Ivan summoned the Italian

Illustrated maps show in detail the architect Aristotele Fioravanti to Moscow. He designed a light and
spacious masterpiece in the spirit of the Renaissance.

. Iconostasis
layout of extensive sights. . Frescoes
In 1642–4, a team of artists
headed by Sidor Pospeev
The haunting 14th-
century Icon of the
Saviour Not Made With
and Ivan and Boris Paisein Hands is one of several
painted these frescoes. icons forming part of
The walls of the cathedral the cathedral’s iconos-
were first gilded to give tasis The iconostasis
the look of an illuminated itself dates from 1652.
manuscript.

KEY

1 The Tabernacle contains holy

relics including the remains
of Patriarch Hermogen, who starved
to death in 1612 during the Polish
invasion (see p21).
2 The Tsarina’s Throne (17th–
19th centuries) is gilded and has
a double–headed eagle crest.
3 Metropolitans’ and patriarchs’ South Portal
tombs line the walls of the nave and This splendid arched portal,
the crypt. Almost all of the leaders of decorated with 17th-century
frescoes, was the entrance used

4
the Russian Orthodox Church are

Moscow’s Major Sights buried in the cathedral.

4 Orthodox cross
5 The golden domes stand on
for royal processions. Brought to
Moscow from Suzdal in 1401 the
door’s reverse side is engraved
with scenes from the Bible.

These are given more extensive towers inset with windows which
allow light to flood into the interior
of the cathedral. The Monomakh Throne
6 Frescoes in the central dome The royal seat of Ivan the Terrible (see p20)

coverage, sometimes two or more 7 The pillars that stand in the

centre of the cathedral are painted
with over 100 figures of canonized
is decorated with carvings relating the
exploits of Prince Vladimir Monomakh
(see p163). The panels depict his
military campaigns and one shows

full pages. Historic buildings are martyrs and warriors.

8 Royal Gate
9 The Harvest Chandelier
him receiving the crown from the
Byzantine emperor Constantine
Monomachus. This legend was
used to confer legitimacy on the

dissected to reveal their interiors;

contains silver recovered from the
French after their occupation of idea that the Russian monarchs
the city in 1812 (see pp25–7). were the heirs to Byzantium.
Western door and
0 The Patriarch’s Seat was carved main entrance Inscribed legend of

museums and galleries have from white stone in 1653 for use
by the head of the Russian
Orthodox Church.
Prince Vladimir

Panels depicting
q Monomakh Throne scenes from Vladimir’s life

colour-coded floorplans to help you

find important exhibits.

Stars indicate the best features Story boxes provide details on famous
or works of art. people or historical events.
INTRODUCING
MOSCOW

Great Days in Moscow 10–13

Putting Moscow on the Map 14–17
The History of Moscow 18–33
Moscow through the Year 34–37
Moscow at a Glance 38–51
10  INTRODUCING MOSCOW
GREAT DAYS IN MOSCOW
The Russian capital, having endured wars,
revolutions and drastic social change, is today a
place where the past and present combine to
captivate and charm. From the multi-coloured
onion domes of churches to the graves of
Soviet heroes, reminders of the city’s past are
on almost every corner. Galleries like the
Moscow’s Past
Two adults allow at least $150
•
First stop Red Square
•
Heroes and villains
•
Colourful domes of
St Basil’s Cathedral
•
Inside the Kremlin
Morning
A whistle-stop tour through
Russian history begins with
a stroll across Red Square
(see p108), a vast expanse
that accommodated huge
military parades during the
Soviet era. From here, head
into Lenin’s Mausoleum (see
p109) to pay your respects to
the leader of Russia’s historic
1917 revolution. Afterwards,
follow the path to the Kremlin
Walls, to see the graves of
other well-known Soviets
including the ruthless dictator
Joseph Stalin, and Yuriy
Gagarin, the first man to
orbit the planet. From the
Kremlin Walls, make your
way to St Basil’s Cathedral
(see pp110–11), one of Russia’s
enduring symbols. According
Historic Red Square, with the distinctive onion domes of St Basil’s Cathedral in the distance
Painting of Red Square by Appolinari Mikhailovich Vasnetsov (1856–1933)
Tretyakov are treasure troves of art, while the
State Armoury contains treasure pure and
simple, from Fabergé eggs to diamonds galore.
These itineraries will help visitors find their way
around; they are arranged first by themes and
then by length of stay. Price guides on pages
10–11 include cost of food and admission fees.
to legend, Ivan the Terrible
had the cathedral’s architect
blinded to ensure that he
would never again create
anything to rival its beauty.
Afternoon
Feeling peckish? Make your
way to Kamergerskiy pereulok,
just off Tverskaya ulitsa (see
p91). This pleasant, traffic-free
zone is in one of the city’s main
shopping districts and has a
good choice of restaurants and
cafés offering flavours from all
over the world.
Afterwards, you can visit
the Kremlin itself (see pp54– Art works by local street artists for sale on
69). Long the seat of power Old Arbat (ulitsa Arbat)
in Russia, the complex of
cathedrals and palaces was not
open to the public until the
Art & Architecture
death of Stalin in 1955. Tickets
are sold for separate sights, Two adults allow at least $160
but be sure not to miss the •
Treasures of Tretyakov
collection of royal treasures at •
Lunch in the park
the State Armoury (see pp66–
7) or icons and gilded frescoes
•
Exploring Old Arbat
at the Cathedral of the
Assumption (see pp60–61).
Make time, too, for Ivan the Morning
Great’s Bell Tower (see p59). Start the day with a visit to the
The 200-tonne behemoth world-class Tretyakov Gallery
of a bell outside the tower is (see pp120–23). The priceless
the largest in the world. collection of Russian art includes

Riverboat on the Moskva river, passing by the Kremlin
the 15th-century Trinity icon
by Andrey Rublev and The
Appearance of Christ to the
People, a colossal work that took
artist Aleksandr Ivanov 20 years
to paint. The gift shop is a good
place to stock up on souvenirs.
For a bite to eat, take a wander
through leafy Alexander
Gardens (see p69), which has a
good choice of cafés including
pizzerias and an English-style pub.
Afternoon
Suitably refreshed, head for
Old Arbat (see pp72–73). Once
the favoured haunt of writers,
artists and poets, this lively
pedestrianized area is a good
place to seek out mementos
of the Soviet era, such as flags,
statuettes and old bits of Red
Army kit, from the many stalls
and shops that line the streets.
There are also a few shops
specializing in traditional icons.
The area has some fine
examples of Russian
architecture including the
19th-century Pushkin House-
Museum (see p75), which gives
visitors a good idea of what
life in Moscow was like when
this literary giant lived here.
Afterwards, take a detour down
Krivoarbatskiy pereulok to peek
at Melnikov House (see p74),
a cylindrical building designed
in the 1920s by Konstantin
Melnikov, one of Russia’s
greatest Constructivist
architects. For dinner, try Mari
Vanna (see p187), by Patriarch’s
Pond, for pancakes, caviar and
perhaps a glass or two of vodka.
G R E AT D AY S I N M O S C O W
A Family Day
Family of four allow at
least $130
•
A gentle river cruise
•
Exploring Gorky Park
•
The magical circus
Morning
In summer there is nothing more
pleasant than taking a Moscow
River Cruise (see p221). Winding
through the heart of the city, the
double-decker river boats pass
several major sights including the
Kremlin and the Cathedral of Christ
the Saviour. Jump ship at Gorky
Park (see p131), where the many
activities include ice skating
along the park’s frozen paths
in winter, and boating on the
lakes or cycling in summer.
The park is a good picnic
spot. There are also a few
good restaurants within the
grounds; try Bar Strelka
(see p186).
Afternoon
Later, head off to the Old
Circus (see p199) for a
breathtaking display by
world-renowned acrobats
and trapeze artists. The
antics of the circus’s
performing bears and
tigers are not to everyone’s
taste, however. The
colourful marionettes
of the Moscow Puppet
Theatre (see p199) are a
worthwhile alternative.
 11
History & Fresh Air
Two adults allow at least $80
•
A fortified convent
•
Famous graves
•
A trip to the country
Morning
Hop on the metro for
Novodevichiy Convent (see
pp132–3), where you can
soak up some of the
16th-century atmosphere of
this fortified religious complex.
Novodevichiy’s nearby ceme-
tery reads like a Who’s Who of
Russian history and contains the
graves of literary luminary
Anton Chekhov and political
heavyweight Nikita Khrushchev.
Afternoon
Afterwards, take the metro to
Kolomenskoe (see pp140–41),
a country estate much loved by
the tsars that is now a museum
of architecture. Enjoy a lunch
of traditional Russian food in
one of the small wooden
buildings. Highlights include
the 16th-century Church of the
Ascension and a log cabin built
for Peter the Great. The park
is also a wonderful place for a
walk along the Moskva river,
especially in winter when it
often freezes over.
16th-century Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk,
Novodevichiy Convent
12  INTRODUCING MOSCOW
2 Days in Moscow
•
Admire the views of
Red Square from within
St Basil’s Cathedral
•
Marvel at the Kremlin’s
fine buildings
•
Ponder the beauty of
the Russian soul at the
Tretyakov Gallery
Day 1
Morning Head for the vast
expanse of Red Square (p108)
and the iconic onion domes of
St Basil’s Cathedral (pp110–11).
Explore the labyrinthine
passages that connect the
cathedral’s eight chapels
before joining the queue
for the polished-granite
Lenin Mausoleum (p109).
The neighbouring Historical
Museum (p108) holds an
intriguing collection that’s
well worth a visit.
Afternoon Visit the Kremlin
(pp54–69) for a fascinating
tour of its historic buildings –
don’t miss the 14th-century
Cathedral of the Assumption
(pp60–61); afterwards, buy a
separate ticket to visit the
State Armoury’s (pp66–7)
fabulous collection of
aristocratic treasures.
Day 2
Morning Leave plenty of time
for your visit to the Tretyakov
Gallery (pp120–23) since the
queues to get in are often
lengthy and the collection
itself is huge – the world’s
largest of Russian art. Look out
for the exquisite 12th-century
icons and the absorbing
canvases by Ilya Repin, Russia’s
renowned Realist painter.
Afternoon Take the metro
to Smolenskaya station, from
where you’ll emerge beneath
the Foreign Ministry (p72), one
of Stalin’s monolithic gothic
skyscrapers known as the
Seven Sisters. Stroll along the
pedestrianized Ulitsa Arbat
(pp72–3), a delightful street
lined with historic buildings
once inhabited by artists and
The lavish interior of Yeliseyevsky Food Hall,
on Tverskaya Ulitsa
artisans. A short distance away
is the Pushkin House-Museum
(p75) where newly wed
Alexander Pushkin spent some
of his happiest months. It
provides an illuminating insight
into the poet and author’s
private life. Continue along the
street, past buskers and street
artists, and browse the wares of
the many colourful galleries,
boutiques and souvenir shops.
3 Days in Moscow
•
Be awed by the State
Armoury’s gleaming
treasures
•
Experience a 19th-century
shopping mall at GUM
•
Admire some of the
world’s greatest paintings
in the Pushkin State
Museum of Fine Arts
Day 1
Morning Prepare to be dazzled
by the State Armoury’s (pp66–7)
stunning collection of treasures,
carriages and weaponry
amassed by generations of
Russian rulers. Highlights include
the giant Orlov diamond and
ten priceless Fabergé eggs.
You’ll need a separate ticket to
visit the rest of the Kremlin
(pp54–69). Don’t miss the
golden domed Cathedral of
the Assumption (pp60–61),
where Ivan the Terrible was
crowned in 1547.
Afternoon No trip to Moscow
would be complete without
a visit to Red Square (p108).
Queue up for your chance
to gaze upon the wax-like body
of Lenin in his Mausoleum
(p109), then explore the eight
chapels within the stunning
St Basil’s Cathedral (pp110–11).
Afterwards, take a look inside
GUM (p109), a gleaming
19th-century shopping
mall that is jammed with
big-name boutiques.
Day 2
Morning Pay a visit to the
immense Cathedral of Christ
the Saviour (p76), built as
a replica of the original
19th-century cathedral that
was blown up by the Soviets
in 1931. A short walk away
you’ll encounter the queue
for the Pushkin State Museum
of Fine Arts (pp80–83). Unless
you intend to spend a whole
day or more absorbing the
overwhelming collection, plan
your visit ahead by browsing
the online catalogue.
Afternoon Move on to the
historic Ulitsa Arbat (pp72–3)
for a pleasant stroll. Artists and
artisans once worked along this
cobbled, pedestrianized street,
and Alexander Pushkin lived
here briefly with his wife – the
house is now the Pushkin
House-Museum (p75). A more
recent addition (1953), is the
Foreign Ministry (p72), one of
Stalin’s skyscrapers, which towers
over one end of the street.
Day 3
Morning Head out for a walk
along Tverskaya Ulitsa (p91),
once Moscow’s grandest street,
where historic buildings vie
for space with shiny modern
structures. The splendid
Yeliseyevsky Food Hall (p91) is
a lovely example of old Moscow,
while a visit to the Museum of
Contemporary History (p99)
gives a fascinating overview
of the more recent past.
Afternoon Queue up for the
chance to see a fantastic array
of Russian art at the Tretyakov
Gallery (pp120–23). What
started out as one man’s private
collection back in 1856 has
since become the world’s
largest collection of Russian art.

5 Days in Moscow
•
Enjoy beautiful views of
the city from Sparrow Hills
•
Step back in time at
the Chambers of the
Romanov Boyars
•
Encounter a Soviet-era
exhibition at VVTs
Day 1
Morning From Okhotny Ryad
metro station, head to Red
Square (p108), passing through
Resurrection Gate (p107), a
copy of the 17th-century gate
destroyed by Stalin to allow
troops easier access to the
square. Take a tour of St Basil’s
Cathedral (pp110–11) before
queuing for a glimpse of Lenin’s
embalmed body in the polished-
granite Mausoleum (p109).
Afternoon The Kitay Gorod
area (pp102–3) has some
fascinating buildings – start
with the Church of St George
(p104), with its green domes,
and the 17th-century Church
of the Trinity in Nikitniki (p105).
For an illuminating impression
of Moscow’s medieval life, visit
the Chambers of the Romanov
Boyars (pp104–5) and the Old
English Court (p104).
Day 2
Morning Pop into the huge
replica of the 19th-century
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
(p76) before enjoying the
world-class art collection at
the Pushkin State Museum
of Fine Arts (pp80–83).
The Fountain of the Republics at the All-Russian Exhibition Centre
G R E AT D AY S I N M O S C O W
The façade of the Tretyakov Gallery, home to the world’s largest collection of Russian art
Afternoon After a tour of the
Kremlin’s imposing cathedrals
and state buildings (pp54–69),
head to the State Armoury
(pp66–7) for the dazzling
collection of diamonds,
jewellery and weaponry.
Day 3
Morning Take a stroll along
Ulitsa Arbat (pp72–3), one of
Moscow’s most famous streets.
Buskers and street artists
entertain passers-by here,
and renowned writer and
poet Alexander Pushkin once
lived at what is now the
Pushkin House-Museum (p75).
Afternoon Hop on the
metro to Sportivnaya station,
from where it is a short walk
to the lovely UNESCO-listed
Novodevichiy Convent (pp132–
3). Nearby, at Universitet station,
you’ll find Sparrow Hills (p131),
dominated by the Stalinist
Moscow State University
building. This is a great spot for
sweeping views of the city.
 13
Day 4
Morning Start the day with a
morning of art appreciation
at the Tretyakov Gallery
(pp120–23). The world’s
largest collection of Russian
art includes several rooms
of ancient Orthodox icons.
Afternoon Explore the leafy
streets of Zamoskvoreche
(pp116–27) and its many
pretty churches and mansions.
The baroque Church of St
Clement (pp124–5) and the
onion-domed Church of the
Resurrection in Kadashi (p124)
are two of the best.
Day 5
Morning Enjoy an early stroll
through Gorky Park (p131), a
lovely expanse of riverside
gardens that is iced over in
winter for skating. Then take the
metro to VDNKh station, where
you’ll encounter the futuristic
Monument to the Conquerors
of Space (p147) before passing
through the towering gates of
the All-Russian Exhibition
Centre (VVTs) (p147). The
star exhibit here is a Vostok
rocket like the one used by Yuri
Gagarin, the first man in space.
Afternoon A walk along
Tverskaya Ulitsa (p91) will
acquaint you with both
Moscow’s past and present –
the Museum of Contemporary
History (p99) is packed with
fascinating displays on the
city’s recent history, while
the Yeliseyevsky Food Hall
(p91) is a splendid example
of 19th-century architecture.
 14  INTRODUCING MOSCOW Murmansk

Putting Moscow on the Map

The Russian Federation (usually simply known as Russia) stretches
from the Baltic to the Pacific. With an area of 17 million sq km White
Sea
(6.6 million sq miles), it was the largest of the USSR’s 15 republics
Arkhangelsk
and is now the world’s largest country, almost twice the size of
the US. Moscow, the capital with 12 million inhabitants, lies at the
heart of European Russia. St Petersburg is Russia’s second largest
city. Russia is a member of the CIS – a commonwealth of most
of the former Soviet republics.

FINLAND

Lake
N O RWAY Ladoga
Vologda
D alä
Oslo lven St Petersburg
Helsinki
SWEDEN Tallinn
Novgorod
Kristia- Stockholm E S T O N IA
nsand
Pärnu

at
Frederiks- Tartu Pskov

Lo v
havn
Gothenburg LAT V IA
Varberg Oskarshamn MOSCOW
Riga See inset
Liepāja map above
D E N MAR K
Baltic LIT HUAN IA
Sea Klaipėda Smolensk Tula
Copenhagen Orsha

Kaliningrad Vilnius
Koszalin
Minsk Orël
Olsztyn
Hamburg Szczecin
POLAND Białystok BELARUS
Gomel
Berlin
O
dr Pri p y a t
G E RMANY a Warsaw

Radom
Wrocław
Kiev
Prague Krakow
UKR A INE Dne
pr
CZ ECH Lviv
Danu REPU BL I C Košice
Dn
be est
SLOVAKIA r
Vienna
Munich Bratislava MO LD O VA
AUSTRIA Budapest
Chisinau
H U N G A RY Odessa
R OM A N I A
SLOVENIA Braşov
Venice Zagreb
Sevastopol
Timișoara
Bologna C R OAT I A BOSNIA-
Constanţa
H E R ZE G OVINA Bucharest
Belgrade
Florence Sarajevo
Split SERBIA Black
Varna
Ancona
MONTENEGRO BULGARIA Sea
I TA LY Burgas
Adriatic KOSOVO Sofia
Sea
Rome Dubrovnik Skopje Istanbul
Tirana MACEDONIA
Bari Bursa
Naples ALBANIA
Ankara
GREECE TURKEY
 PUTTING MOSCOW ON THE MAP  15

Pe
Moscow and Environs Kirzhach
Me ze Ukhta c ho
n

ra
Lobnya
Sheremetevo
da
hey Istra Noginsk
yc
V

Syktyvkar MOSCOW
Zhukovskiy
Ruza

va
Mosk
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Kotlas Domodedovo
Podolsk M
os
kv

a
0 kilometres 40
Kirov Chekhov
0 miles 40 Kolomna

Kazan
Ufa

Yaroslavl
RUSSIAN
U ra
Sibay
FEDERATION l
Orsk

Vladimir Ulyanovsk Orenburg

Samara
Ok

Aktobe
a

Ryazan Yrgyz

Uralsk
Shubarkudyk
Shalkar
Saratov

K A Z A K H S TA N
Don

Balashov
u

Makat
ea
at

Atyrau Aral
Volgograd Sea
l

Vo l
t P

Kharkov g a Beyneu
Done
ur

t Astrakhan
s

ty
Us

Rostov-na-Don Fort-
Mariupol Elista Shevchenko

Cas pi an
Sea of
A zov Sea

Putting Russia on the Map Arctic Ocean

Key
Motorway
R U S S I A N F E D E R AT I O N
Major road
Moscow
Minor road
KAZAKHSTAN
Railway MONGOLIA

International boundary
CHINA Pa c i fi c
Ferry route Ocean
INDIA
AFRICA
0 kilometres 200

0 miles 200

For keys to symbols see back flap

16  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Central Moscow Mayakovskaya

TV
Most of Moscow’s sights are situated in the city centre, ER
SK
AY
within the area bounded by the Garden Ring and the A

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Boulevard Ring. In this book the centre has been

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IT
Museum of the SA

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divided into five sightseeing areas, while two further LO Revolution

А DO

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sections cover the outskirts and day trips into the Tverskaya PUSHKIN

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SQUARE

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M

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countryside. Each of the central areas has a

AL
PUSHKINSKAYA

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KO
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КУ U

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distinctive character, with the sights in each

Я - YA
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B
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A
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ON
M

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В А KA

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one lying within easy walking distance of

U
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 PUTTING MOSCOW ON THE MAP  17

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For keys to symbols see back flap

 INTRODUCING MOSCOW  19

THE HISTORY OF
MOSCOW
From her 12th-century origins as an obscure defensive outpost, Moscow
came to govern one sixth of the earth’s surface and cast her shadow even
further. The story of her rise is laced with glory and setbacks, including the
two centuries when St Petersburg was the capital of Russia and Moscow lived
the life of a dignified dowager.
The First Settlers
The forested area around Moscow was
sparsely populated, but the fertile lands
of southern Russia and Ukraine had
long supported trade routes between
the Orient and Europe. It was here
that the Slavs, the ancestors of the
Russian people, first settled. They
came from Eastern Europe in the Bloodthirsty and fearless, this lacquer box shows Mongol
6th century, and established isolated warriors riding into battle
villages along the major rivers. In the
8th century they came into contact Russia, which remained an Orthodox
with the Varangians (Vikings), who country right into the 20th century.
navigated these waterways to trade
amber, furs and fair-skinned slaves. The Mongol Invasion
By the 12th century, Kiev’s supremacy
Kievan Rus had already been challenged by the
Endemic in-fighting between the powerful Russian principalities to the
Slavic tribes was quelled when Rurik, north, including Rostov-Suzdal (see p163),
a Varangian chief, assumed power in of which the wooden kremlin at Moscow
the region. Rurik settled in Novgorod, formed part. As a result, when the fierce
but his successor Oleg took Kiev and horse-borne Mongols invaded in 1237,
made it his capital. In 988 Grand Prince the disunited Russians fell easy victims to
Vladimir I, a descendant of Rurik, was the well-organized troops of Batu Khan.
baptised into Orthodox Christianity (see For the next 240 years the Russian prin-
p139) and married the sister of the cipalities paid an exorbitant yearly tribute
Byzantine emperor. Vladimir’s con- to the khans, though they were left to
version deeply affected the future of govern themselves.

c. 800 Varangians Rurik, Varangian chief

arrive in the region to 1147 Moscow 1156 Prince Yuriy 1240 Mongols
trade and find local first documented, Dolgorukiy builds control most of
988 Grand Prince
tribes in conflict as the site of a Moscow’s first Rus after the
Vladimir I converts to
small fortress wooden kremlin sack of Kiev
Christianity
800 900 1000 1100 1200

862 Rurik takes 882 Rurik’s successor Oleg takes 1108 The town of 1223 First Mongol raid
Novgorod and Kiev and makes it capital Vladimir (see p163)
establishes a is founded 1236–42 Prince Aleksandr
863 Missionaries Cyril and Methodius invent Nevskiy of Novgorod defeats
Varangian
the Cyrillic alphabet, based on the Greek one; first the invading Swedes and
stronghold
literacy grows with the spread of Christianity then the Teutonic Knights

The symbol of Moscow, St George and the Dragon, on a 15th-century icon housed in the Tretyakov Gallery
 20  INTRODUCING MOSCOW
The Rise of Moscow
In the 14th century, the Mongols
chose Moscow’s power-hungry Grand
Prince Ivan I, “Kalita” or “Moneybags”
(1325–40), to collect tribute from all their
conquered principalities, giving the city
supremacy over its neighbours. Ivan had
already shown his obsequiousness by
crushing a revolt against the Mongols
led by his neighbour, the Grand Prince
of Tver. Yet the Mongols were sealing
their own fate, for, as Moscow flourished
under their benevolence, she ultimately
became a real threat to their power.
Within 50 years an army of soldiers
from several Russian principalities, led
by Moscow’s Grand Prince Dmitriy
Donskoy (1359–89), inflicted their first
defeat on the Mongols, and the idea
of a Russian nation was born.
It was not until the reign of Ivan III,
“the Great” (1462–1505), when Moscow
ruled a kingdom which stretched as
far as the Arctic Ocean and the Urals,
that the Mongols were finally vanquished.
Ivan married the niece of the last
emperor of Byzantium, who had fled
Constantinople when it had fallen to
the Ottomans in 1453. This
increased Moscow’s prestige
further, and particularly her claim
to being the last defender of true
Orthodoxy. Ivan also sought to
assert Moscow’s status through a
grand building programme. He
started the tradition of importing
foreign architects, including the
Italians (see p46) who built the
present Kremlin walls. Ivan the Terrible (1533–84) country’s downfall. Ivan’s more
1328 Ivan I becomes
Grand Prince of Vladimir c.1345 St Sergius founds
the Trinity Monastery of
St Sergius (see pp164–7)
1300 1350
1328 Metropolitan See is
1300
transferred from Vladimir
Metropolitan
to Moscow
See is transfer-
red from Kiev 1325–40 Ivan I rules Moscow
to Vladimir and strengthens its position
Map of 16th-century Moscow, showing neat rows of wooden
houses and several churches behind the city’s first stone walls
Ivan the Terrible
It was Ivan the Great’s grandson, Ivan IV,
“the Terrible” (1533–84), who transformed
himself from Grand Prince of Moscow to
“Tsar of All the Russias”. During his reign
Russia expanded beyond the Urals into
Siberia and strong trading links were
established with England. Moscow’s walls
were strengthened for, even as late as 1571,
the Crimean Mongols continued to venture
sporadic attacks on the Russian capital.
Yet, powerful though he was, Ivan
suffered dreadful paranoia. After the death
of his beloved wife Anastasia, he became
convinced that she had been poisoned by
the boyars (see p22) and set up
Russia’s first police state. A sinister
force of black-hooded agents
called the oprichniki murdered
whole villages to stamp out the
tsar’s supposed enemies. Ivan also
imposed restrictions on the
aristocracy and peasantry alike,
establishing those autocratic
traditions that were to prove the
1380 Dmitriy Donskoy 1453 Constantinople,
defeats the Mongols at previously Moscow’s 1470s The
Orthodox ally, falls to Cathedral of the
the pivotal Battle of
Kulikovo (see p163) the Ottomans Assumption
is built
1400 1450
1367 Dmitriy Donskoy 1462–1505 Reign
rebuilds Kremlin walls of Ivan III
in limestone
1476 Ivan III stops paying
Rebuilding of the tribute to Mongols
Kremlin walls
 THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  21

immediate legacy was his contribution to The First Romanovs

the end of the Varangian dynasty, the
murder of his only competent son, also
named Ivan, in a paranoid rage.
The Time of Troubles
This ushered in a period known as the
Time of Troubles. For 14 years, Ivan’s
retarded son Fyodor (1584–98)
ruled under the guidance of Boris
Godunov, a former and much-hated
oprichnik. When Fyodor died childless,
Godunov installed himself in the Kremlin,
but he soon become target of a
pretender to the throne. The
pretender claimed to be Ivan the
Terrible’s dead youngest son
Dimitry, sought support from
Poland and marched on
Moscow with an army of 4,000 in
1604. With the death of Boris
Godunov in 1605 he was installed Boris Godunov
on the throne. The pretender was (1598–1605)
soon to enrage the Moscow
boyars, who killed him, and replaced him
with Vasiliy Shuiskiy, a boyar of some
distinction. Faced with a second “False
Dmitry” marching on Moscow in 1607,
Shuiskiy appealed to Sweden for help only
to provoke a new Polish intervention. The
Poles reached Moscow in 1610 and
Shuiskiy was then deposed by the boyars.
In the north, the Swedes used the internal
instability of Russia to capture Novgorod.
Only in these desperate circumstances did
the Russians finally unite to expel the
occupying Poles, under the leadership of
Minin and Prince Pozharskiy (see p111). The Ambassadors of the Council of the Realm entreating young
siege of the Kremlin thus ended in 1612.
Determined to put an end to this
period of anarchy, Moscow’s leading
citizens came together to nominate the
16-year-old Mikhail Romanov, great-
nephew of Ivan’s first wife Anastasia, as
hereditary tsar, thus initiating the 300
year rule of the Romanovs. Under Mikhail
(1613–45), who ruled with his father Filaret,
the patriarch of Moscow, Russia recovered
from her exhausting upheavals. His greatest
legacy, however, was his heir Alexis (1645–
76). An intelligent and pious man, Alexis
tried to modernize the state. He
oversaw the first codification of
Russian law and encouraged an
influx of foreign technicians,
against the will of the Church.
During the reign of Alexis the
Church saw difficult times due
to the schism between the
reformers, led by Patriarch Nikon
(see p59), and the conservative
Old Believers. Nikon, however,
grew too important for his own good
which resulted in Alexis asserting the
power of the State over the Church.
Mikhail Romanov to accept the tsar’s crown in 1613

1561 Building
1485 Ivan III 1533–84 1613 Mikhail is 1653–67 Religious
of St Basil’s 1589 Moscow
commissions Italian Reign of elected first tsar of schism between
Cathedral is attains status of
architects to rebuild Ivan IV the Romanov dynasty Patriarch Nikon and
completed Patriarchate
the Kremlin walls the Old Believers

1500 1550 1600 1650

1570 Ivan IV 1610 Moscow 1654–67
1478 Ivan III 1547 Ivan IV 1571 Mongols
orders falls to the Second war
revokes takes title “Tsar” raid Moscow
massacre of Poles but they with Poland
Novgorod’s
1552 Victory over Novgorod are driven
charter of
Mongols as Ivan IV 1598–1605 out two Patriarch
independence
takes town of Kazan Reign of Boris Godunov years later Nikon
22  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Medieval Moscow
Moscow developed in 400 years from an isolated wooden
fortress (kremlin), built in 1156, into a thriving capital city,
described by a Dutch envoy as “shining like Jerusalem from
without, but like Bethlehem inside”. Its circle of outer walls
enclosed a series of smaller districts centred on the Kremlin,
whose wooden stockade was replaced with white limestone in
1367 to protect the city from Mongol raids, and by massive brick Extent of the City
walls in 1495. It boasted a clutch of stone cathedrals, befitting its 13th century 1590
role as the “Third Rome” after the fall of Constantinople in 1453.
Next to the Kremlin lay Red Square, where public spectacles
ranged from executions to fairs. The rest of the city housed
boyars, merchants, servants, hawkers and artisans. The public sauna (banya) was
always sited near water, isolated
where possible from the dense
crush of wooden housing.

Andrey Rublev (c.1370–1430)

Moscow’s finest icon painter, Andrey
Rublev is seen here painting a fresco at
the Monastery of the Saviour and
Andronicus (see p142). Icons (see p63)
were used for the religious education
of the people.

A Silver Kovsh
Originally made
in wood, this
ceremonial drinking
vessel, known as a The Walled City
kovsh, began to be crafted Vasnetsov’s (see p146) painting of the
in metal in the 14th century.
Kremlin in the 15th century shows the
Elaborately decorated kovshi were often given
warren of wooden houses which surround-
by the tsar to favoured subjects. These treasured
artifacts would be displayed as a symbol of ed the palaces and churches. Among them
wealth when not in use. were the renowned Kremlin workshops.

Boyars and Merchants

Though richly dressed, boyars (noblemen)
in medieval Russia were largely illiterate
and often crude in their habits. Their
material needs were looked after
by merchants who traded in furs
from the north and silk from Turkey.
 THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  23

Foreigners in Moscow
From the 16th century, Where to see
foreign diplomats and traders Medieval Moscow
began to visit the isolated
and xenophobic Russia. The The Kremlin’s medieval buildings
adventurer Richard include its Cathedrals of the
Chancellor, who attempted Assumption (see pp60–61), the
to find the northwest Archangel (p62) and the
passage to the Orient but Annunciation (p62). The State
ended up in Russia, managed Armoury (pp66–7), also in the
to negotiate a trading treaty Kremlin, displays medieval artifacts
with Ivan the Terrible. and armour while the daily life of
the nobility is recreated in the
Chambers of the Romanov Boyars
(pp104–5). St Basil’s Cathedral
(pp110–11) also dates from this time.
Wooden houses could be bought pre-
fabricated from a market outside the city
Limestone walls,
walls. They quickly replaced houses that erected by Dmitriy
were lost in Moscow’s frequent fires. Donskoy (see p20)

The dining room in the Chambers of the

Romanov Boyars.

Building a Cathedral
During the reign
of Ivan I (1325–40),
when the first stone
Cathedral of the
Assumption was built,
Metropolitan Peter
moved to Moscow
to be head of the
Orthodox Church. This
manuscript illustration
shows him blessing
the new cathedral.

Cathedral of the Assumption

Small trading vessels thronged the

banks of the Moskva river, unloading
goods for the growing city. Russia’s rivers
were her trading routes and were far more
efficient than travel by land.

Ivan the Terrible

Though Ivan IV’s reign (1533–84) did
much to benefit Russia, he certainly
deserved his epithet. Among the
many souls on his conscience was his
only worthy son and heir, Ivan, killed
in a fit of rage which the tsar
regretted for the rest of his life.
 24  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Peter the Great

The extraordinary reign of Alexis’s
son Peter I, “the Great”, really put
Russia back on her feet. Brought up
in an atmosphere of reform, Peter
was determined to make Russia a
modern European state. In 1697, he
became the first tsar ever to go
abroad, with the particular aim of
studying shipbuilding and other
European technologies. On his Vasiliy Surikov’s portrayal of Peter the Great watching Streltsy Guards being
return, he began immediately to led to their deaths in 1698, as punishment for their earlier rebellion
build a Russian navy, reformed the
army and insisted on Western-style later, when he executed over a thousand of
clothing for his courtiers. At Poltava in 1709, them. He also began to build a new city on
Peter dramatically defeated the Swedes, the boggy banks of the Neva to the north
who had been a threat to Russia for a and ordered the imperial family and
century, and stunned Europe into taking government to move. In 1712 he declared
note of an emerging power. the cold, damp St Petersburg capital of
Peter’s effect on Moscow was Russia. For the next 200 years
double-edged. At the age of 10 Moscow was Russia’s second city.
he had seen relatives murdered in
the Kremlin during the Streltsy
Rebellion. This revolt had sprung The Petticoat Period
from rivalry between his mother’s After Peter the Great’s death in 1725,
family, the Naryshkins, and that Tsarina Elizabeth Russia was ruled by women for most
of his father’s first wife, the (1741–62) of the 18th century: Catherine I,
Miloslavskiys, over the succession. Anna, Elizabeth and Catherine II.
In the end Peter Though they were all crowned in the
was made co-tsar Cathedral of the Assumption (see pp60–61),
with his half- most preferred to live in Europeanized St
brother Ivan, but Petersburg. However, Elizabeth, Peter’s
developed a boisterous, fun-loving daughter, insisted on
pathological living in Moscow periodically. During Peter’s
distrust of Moscow. reign constructions in stone outside St
He took a long- Petersburg had been banned, but under
awaited and grim Elizabeth a flurry of new buildings appeared
revenge on the in Moscow, especially since some of Russia’s
Tsar Peter the Great (1682–1725) Streltsys 16 years leading families preferred to live there.

1696 1698 The Streltsys are crushed 1721 Peter I replaces patriarchiate
1773–4 Pugachev Rebellion
Ivan dies. with less-powerful church synod 1741–62
Peter I is 1700–21 Great Northern Reign of
sole ruler War against Sweden 1730–40 Reign of Anna Elizabeth 1768–74 First Russo-
Turkish War

1700 1725 1750

1682 The Streltsy 1712 Capital is 1725–7 1762 Peter III is killed.
1709 Great transferred to Reign of Tsarina
Rebellion; Peter I is His wife seizes the
Russian St Petersburg Catherine I Anna
co-tsar with half- throne as Catherine II
brother Ivan V victory at
and his half-sister the Battle 1727–30 Reign of Peter II. 1755 Mikhail Lomonosov
Sophia as regent of Poltava Moscow is capital for two years founds Moscow University
 THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  25

Elizabeth founded Russia’s first university in
Moscow (see p96), under the guidance of
Russia’s 18th-century Renaissance man, the
poet, scientist and academic Mikhail
Lomonosov. But Moscow was still protected
from the Westernization affecting the capital
and thus retained a more purely Russian soul
and identity.
Catherine the Great
In 1762 Catherine II, “the Great”,
a German princess, usurped the
throne of her feeble husband
Peter III with the help of her
lover Grigoriy Orlov, a guards
officer. Under her energetic,
intelligent leadership, the
country saw another vast
expansion in its prestige and Catherine the Great (1762–96) who were too poor to buy their
made territorial gains at the
expense of Turkey and its old adversary
Poland. Catherine purchased great
collections of European art and books
(including Voltaire’s library) and in 1767
published her Nakaz (Imperial Instruction)
upon which a reform of Russia’s legal
system was to be based. Unsurprisingly,
this modern European monarch regarded
Moscow as inward-looking and backward
and spent little time there.
fire resulted in a bold new architectural
plan. The Napoleonic Wars also marked a
turning point in Russian political history,
as soldiers returned from Europe bringing
with them the seeds of liberal ideas. Far
from the court of Nicholas I, the Iron Tsar,
Moscow became a fertile environment
for underground debate among early
revolutionaries such as Herzen
and the Decembrists. Yet most
of Moscow society was trapped
in a comfortable and
conservative cocoon, financed
by the system of serfdom. With
the Emancipation of the Serfs in
1861, however, the economic
strength of most nobles was
radically curtailed. The freed serfs
own land, flocked to the factories
of mercantile and industrial entrepreneurs. In
Moscow, at the old heart of the empire, these
entrepreneurs came to usurp the position
of the aristocrats, making vast fortunes
from trade, textiles, railways, banking and
publishing, and financing a renaissance in
the Russian arts on the proceeds.

19th-Century Moscow
Napoleon’s invasion in 1812 and the heroic
part played in his defeat by Moscow (see
pp26–7) appeared to reinvigorate the city.
Aleksandr Herzen (see p73) claimed that
“Moscow was again made the ‘capital’ of the
Russian people by Napoleon”, and, indeed, The Bolshoi Theatre, favoured by Moscow’s aristocracy, along
the destruction of two thirds of the city by with balls and lavish suppers, for an evening’s entertainment

1787–92 1805–7 War with 1835 First 1851 The Nicholas Railway 1853–6
Second France; Russia is Tsar Nicholas I modern law between Moscow and Crimean
Russo-Turkish defeated at battles of code comes St Petersburg is opened War
War Austerlitz, Friedland into effect

1800 1825 1850

1796 Death of Catherine II. 1807 Treaty 1855 Nicholas I dies. Alexander II succeeds
Paul I accedes of Tilsit 1816–19
1825 Nicholas I becomes 1861 Emancipation
Emancipation
1801 Paul I is assassinated. 1812 Napoleon tsar. The Decembrist of all serfs
of serfs in Bal-
Alexander I becomes tsar and invades Moscow Rebellion is crushed in 1863–9 Tolstoy publishes
tic provinces
begins a programme of reforms but has to retreat St Petersburg War and Peace
26  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

War and Peace

Russia’s glorious rise to the ranks of a world power accelerated
in the period between 1800 and 1830. Even though she
suffered severe defeats against France, including the Battle of
Austerlitz (1805), she rose in power after signing the Treaty of
Tilsit in 1807 and becoming an ally of France. The uneasy
peace ended in 1812, with the invasion of Napoleon’s Grande
Armée. But Russia turned disaster into victory and in 1814–15, Extent of the City
Tsar Alexander I sat down to decide Europe’s future at the 1812, before the fire
Congress of Vienna. The war marked an important cultural
Areas razed by the fire
shift in Russia as liberal Western European political ideas first
filtered into the country, although their time had not yet come.
The Kremlin was damaged more
by the looting of the French than
by the fire outside.
Alexander I (1801–25)
The handsome young tsar was
initially infected by the ideals
of enlightened government,
but became increasingly
influenced by his
reactionary advisers.

Napoleon stayed in the tsar’s

apartments for a few days before
retreating to safety outside the city.

The French soldiers soon fell to

undisciplined drinking and looting.

Moscow Burning
After Field Marshal Mikhail Kutuzov’s retreat at Borodino,
the French army was able to enter Moscow, but Muscovites
set light to their city and fled. In just four days, two thirds
of the city burnt down, leaving the army without
shelter or provisions. Combined with Alexander I’s refusal
to negotiate while Napoleon remained on Russian
territory, this resulted in the French emperor’s defeat.

Battle of Borodino, September 1812

The Battle of Borodino (see p160) lasted 15 hours, Retreat of Napoleon’s Grande Armée
causing the death of 70,000 men, half of them Facing the winter without supplies, the army
French. Yet Napoleon declared the battle a began its retreat in October. Only 30,000 out
victory and advanced on Moscow. of 600,000 men made it back.
 THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  27

Where to see
Neo-Classical
Moscow
Early examples of
Neo-Classicism
can be seen at the
palaces of Ostankino
(see pp146–7) and Pediment, Kuskovo Palace
Kuskovo (pp144–5), at
Empire Style Pashkov House (p84) and at Moscow Old University (p96).
Many things, from chairs to plates, were The fire of 1812 allowed vast areas to be developed to an
designed in the popular Empire style (see Empire-style city plan. Bolshaya Nikitskaya ulitsa (p95), ulitsa
p47). This cup and saucer with a Classical Prechistenka (p76) and Theatre Square (p90) are lined with
motif were made at the Popov factory fine buildings from this time.
near Moscow in 1810.

Moscow University
It was after the Napoleonic Wars that the University
of Moscow, founded in 1755, gained a reputation as
a hotbed of liberalism. However, political discussions
still had to be conducted at secret salons.

Alexander Pushkin
The great Romantic poet
Alexander Pushkin (see
p75) captured the spirit
of the time. Pushkin
and his wife Natalya
were often invited to
court balls, such as the
one shown here. This
enabled Nicholas I to
keep an eye on the
liberal poet as well as
on his enchanting wife.

New fires were started deliberately

throughout the city, on the orders
of the tsarist governor.

The river proved no barrier to the fire,

whipped up by a fierce wind.

The Millstone of Serfdom

In the shadow of the nobility’s easy
life, and to a great extent enabling it,
were millions of serfs toiling in slavery
on large estates. This painting shows
a serf owner settling his debts by
selling a girl to a new master.
 28  INTRODUCING MOSCOW
The End of an Empire
Though the 1890s saw rapid advances in
industrialization, Russia experienced a
disastrous slump at the turn of the
20th century. Nicholas II’s diversionary war
with Japan backfired, causing economic
unrest, adding to the misery of the working
classes and finally culminating in the 1905
Revolution. On 9th January 1905, a
demonstration in St Petersburg carried
a petition of grievances to the tsar and
was met by bullets. News of this “Bloody
Sunday” spread like wildfire and strikes broke
out all over the country. To avert further
disaster Nicholas had to promise basic civil
rights, and an elected parliament, which he,
however, simply dissolved whenever it
displeased him. This high-handed
behaviour, along with the imperial family’s
friendship with the “holy man” Rasputin,
further damaged the Romanovs’ reputation.
The outbreak of World War I brought
a surge of patriotism which the
inexperienced Nicholas sought to
ride by taking personal command of the
troops. By late 1916, however, Russia had
Tatiana
Maria
Tsar Nicholas II surrounded by his wife Alexandra, their four
daughters and Tsarevich Alexis in 1913
1881 Alexander II is 1894 Alexander III dies
killed by the “People’s after an oppressive and
Will” group. Accession reactionary reign.
of Alexander III Nicholas II accedes
1880
1881–2 Pogroms
1898 Foundation of Social-
against Jews
Democratic Workers’ Party
1887 Lenin’s brother
1903 Pro-violence Bolsheviks (under Lenin)
is hanged for attempt secede from Social-Democratic Workers’ Party
on the tsar’s life
The Bolshevik by Boris Kustodiev, painted in 1920
lost 3,500,000 men, morale at the front was
very low and supplies of food at home had
become increasingly scarce.
Revolution and Civil War
In early 1917 strikes broke out in
St Petersburg. People took to the streets,
jails were stormed and the February
Revolution began. The tsar was forced to
abdicate and his family was placed under
house arrest. Exiled revolutionaries flooded
back into the country to set up workers’ and
soldiers’ soviets. Elected by the workers as an
alternative to an unelected provisional
government they formed a powerful anti-
Olga war lobby. In October the leadership of the
Bolsheviks, urged on by Lenin, decided on
Anastasia an armed uprising, under the rallying cries
of “All power to the soviets!” and “Peace,
bread and land”. In the early hours of 26th
October, they arrested the provisional
government in St Petersburg’s Winter Palace.
Within months the Bolsheviks had
shown themselves as careless of
democracy as the tsar, dismissing the
constituent assembly and setting up
their own secret police, the Cheka.
1905 The 1905 Revolution is followed by 1912 First
the inauguration of the Duma (1906) issue of
Pravda is
1902 Lenin’s What is to be published
Done? is published
1900
1913 300th
1904–5 anniversary of
Russo- Romanov
Japanese War dynasty
1914 World War I begins

In March 1918, however, the Bolsheviks
stayed true to their promise and took
Russia out of World War I, instead plunging
the soldiers straight into a vicious civil
war. The capital was moved back to
Moscow, and from here Lenin and his
government directed their “Red” army
against the diverse coalition of anti-
revolutionary groups known as the “Whites”.
When White soldiers got closer to the
exiled Romanovs in Yekaterinburg in July
1918, the royal family was brutally
butchered by its captors. But the Whites
were a disparate force, and by November
1920 Soviet Russia was rid of them, only to
face two years of appalling famine.
A 1937 propaganda poster showing Joseph Stalin
The Stalin Years
In the 5 years after Lenin’s death in 1924,
Joseph Stalin used his position as General
Secretary of the Communist Party to
remove rivals such as Leon Trotsky and
establish his dictatorship.
The terror began in the countryside, with
the collectivization of agriculture which
forced the peasantry to give up their land,
machinery and livestock to collective farms
in return for a salary. During this time, and
in the ensuing famine of 1931–2, up to 10
million people are thought to have died.
1917 The Russian revolution (see pp30–31)
1918 Civil War starts.
Capital moves to Moscow
1920
1924 Lenin dies
1922 Stalin becomes General Secretary
1921 Lenin bans all opposition. NEP
(New Economic Policy) is introduced
THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  29
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, torn down on the orders of Stalin
as part of his new city plan (see pp76–7)
The first major purge of intellectuals
took place in urban areas in 1928–9.
Then, in December 1934, Sergey Kirov,
the local party leader in Leningrad, was
assassinated on the secret orders of
Stalin, although the murder was blamed
on an underground anti-Stalinist cell.
This was the catalyst for 5 years of
purges, by the end of which over a
million people had been executed
and some 15 million arrested and sent
to labour camps, where they often died.
In his purge of the Red Army in 1937–8,
Stalin dismissed or executed three quarters
of his officers. When the Germans invaded
in 1941 they were able to advance rapidly,
subjecting Leningrad to a horrendous siege
of nearly 900 days. But Moscow was never
taken since Hitler, like Napoleon before
him, underestimated both the harshness
of the Russian winter and his enemies’
willingness to fight.
After the German defeat, the Russian
people, who had lost over 20 million souls
in the war, were subjected to a renewed
internal terror by Stalin, which lasted until
his death in 1953.
1932 Socialist Realism becomes the
officially approved style in art
1947 The term
1934 Leningrad Party Secretary Sergey “Cold War” is coined
Kirov is murdered; purges begin
1940
1941 Hitler attacks Soviet Union, reaches
outskirts of Moscow. Siege of Leningrad
1939 Nazi-Soviet pact
Sergey Kirov
30  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

The Russian Revolution

The Russian Revolution, which began in St Petersburg and
made Moscow once more a capital city, was pivotal to the
history of the 20th century. By late 1916, with Russia facing
defeat in World War I and starvation at home, even ministers
and generals were doubting the tsar’s ability to rule. In 1917
there were two uprisings: the February Revolution, which
began with massive strikes and led to the abdication of Extent of The City
Nicholas II; and the October Revolution, which overturned 1917 Today
the provisional government and swept the Communists to
power. They emerged victoriously from the Civil War that
Many soldiers deserting from the
followed, to attempt to build a new society. front were happy to put on the new
Red Army uniform instead.
The Ex-Tsar
Nicholas II, seen here clearing
snow during his house arrest Middle class people as
outside St Petersburg, was well as the poor took
later taken with his family to part in the Revolution.
Yekaterinburg in the Urals.
There, in 1918, they were
shot and their bodies
thrown down a mine shaft.

Reds Outside The Kremlin

In October, the fight for control of the Kremlin
was intense in comparison to the one in
St Petersburg. The Bolshevik seizure was reversed
after 3 days, and it took the revolutionaries
another 6 days to overcome loyalist
troops in the fortress and elsewhere in the city.

Women took part in

demonstrations and strikes.

Revolutionary Plate
Ceramics with revolutionary
themes, mixed with touches
Comrade Lenin of Russian folklore, were
A charismatic speaker, depicted produced to commemorate
here by Viktor Ivanov, the exiled special events. This plate
Lenin returned in April to lead marks the founding of
the Revolution. By late 1917 his the Third International
Bolshevik party had gained power. Communist group in 1919.
 THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  31

Propaganda
One hallmark of the Soviet
regime was its powerful
propaganda. Many
talented artists were
employed to design
posters, which spread the
Socialist message through
striking graphics. During
the Civil War (1918–20),
posters such as this one
extolled the “pacifist army
of workers ” to support
Leon Trotsky
War Communism.
The intellectual Trotsky played
a leading military role in the
Revolution. In 1928, during the
power struggle after Lenin’s death,
he was exiled by Stalin. He was
murdered in Mexico, in 1940,
by a Stalinist agent.

Banner proclaiming Avant-Garde Art

freedom to the world Even before 1917, Russia’s
artists had been in a state
of revolution, producing
the world’s first truly
abstract paintings. A fine
example of avant-garde art
is Supremus No. 56, painted
in 1916 by Kazimir Malevich.

Old and young were swept away

by the revolutionary fervour.

New Values
Traditions were radically
altered by the Revolution;
instead of church weddings,
couples exchanged vows
under the red flag. Loudly
trumpeted sexual equality
meant that women had to
work twice as hard – at
home and in the factories.

February March The tsar is October Bolsheviks storm Winter March Bolsheviks sign Brest Litovsk
Revolution in persuaded to abdicate. Palace in St Petersburg, after peace treaty with Germany, taking
St Petersburg Provisional government signal from Aurora, and oust Russia out of World War I. Capital is
is led by Prince Lvov provisional government moved to Moscow

1917 1918
1918 January
Trotsky becomes
July Kerenskiy becomes July Start of Civil
Commissar of War
prime minister of War. Tsar and family
provisional government December Lenin forms the murdered in prison
Battleship Aurora Cheka (secret police) at Yekaterinburg
 32  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

intellectual climate froze once more. The

The Washington Dove of Peace (1953), a Russian caricature from
the days of the Cold War
Behind the Iron Curtain
In 1956, 3 years after Stalin’s death, his
successor, Nikita Khrushchev, denounced
his crimes at the 20th Party Congress and
the period known as “The Thaw” began.
Thousands of political prisoners were
released and books critical of Stalin were
published. In foreign affairs, things were not
so liberal. Soviet tanks invaded Hungary in
1956 and in 1962 Khrushchev’s decision to
base nuclear missiles on Cuba brought the
world to the brink of nuclear war. When
Leonid Brezhnev took over in 1964, the
First in Space
Under Khrushchev the Soviet Union achieved her
greatest coup against the West, when she sent
Sputnik 1 into space in 1957. That same year the
dog Laika was the first living creature in space, on
Sputnik 2. She never came back but, four
years later, Yuriy Gagarin made history as
the first man in space, returning as a hero.
The Soviets lost the race to put a man on
the moon, but the space programme
was a powerful propaganda tool,
backing the claims of politicians that
Russia would soon catch up with
and overtake the West.
Sputnik 2 and the space dog Laika, 1957
first 10 years of his office were a time of
relative plenty, but beneath the surface
there was a vast black market and growing
corruption. The party apparatchiks, who
benefitted from the corruption, had no
interest in rocking the boat. When
Brezhnev died in 1982, the Politburo was
determined to prevent the accession of a
younger generation. He was succeeded by
the 68-year-old Andropov, followed by the
72-year-old Chernenko.
Glasnost and Perestroika
It was only in 1985, when the new leader,
53-year-old Mikhail Gorbachev, announced
his policies of perestroika (restructuring) and
glasnost (openness), that the true bankruptcy
of the old system became apparent. Yet he
had no idea of the immense changes that
they would bring in their wake. For the first
time since 1917 the elec-
tions to the Congress of
People’s Deputies in
1989 contained an
element of true choice,
with rebels such as
human-rights
campaigner Andrey
Sakharov and Boris Mikhail Gorbachev with
Yeltsin winning seats. In George Bush
the autumn and winter
of that year the Warsaw Pact disintegrated
as country after country in Eastern Europe
declared its independence from the Soviet
Union. Local elections within the Union in
1990 brought nationalist candidates to
power in the republics and democrats in the
most important Russian local councils.

1950–53 1961 Building of Berlin 1964 Brezhnev takes over the role of 1979 USSR 1980 1984
Korean Wall. Yuriy Gagarin is General Secretary after Krushchev invades Moscow Chernenko
War first man in space 1968 Soviet troops enter Afghanistan Olympics are replaces
Czechoslovakia to sup- boycotted Andropov
1953 Stalin dies press “Prague Spring” by the West

1950 1960 1970 1980

1955 Warsaw Pact 1962 Cuban 1969 Strategic 1982 Brezhnev dies and is 1986
1957 missile crisis Arms Limitation replaced by Andropov Chernobyl
1956 Stalin denounced Sputnik 1 is Talks (SALT) nuclear
at 20th Party launched 1961 Stalin’s body is with USA 1985 Gorbachev is disaster
Congress. Hungarian removed from the elected General Secretary
uprising crushed Kremlin Mausoleum Leonid Brezhnev of Communist Party

Communist hero fallen from grace after the 1991 coup
In 1991 the Baltic Republics and Russia
herself seceded from the Soviet Union. With era. Churches have filled once again for
his massive victory in the election for
President of the Russian Republic, Yeltsin
gained the mandate he needed to
deal the death blow to the Soviet
Union. It came after the military
coup against Gorbachev in August
1991, when Yeltsin’s stand against
the tanks in Moscow made him a
hero. After Gorbachev’s return
from house arrest in the Crimea,
Yeltsin forced him to outlaw the
Communist Party. By the end of the
year the Soviet Union was no more as all
the republics declared their independence. Dmitry Medvedev as Prime Minister.
Moscow Today
The 1990s had a profound effect on the
drab old Moscow of Soviet times. With
Russia’s vast natural resources attracting a
rush of inward investment, Moscow saw
the lion’s share of that money passing
through its hands. A wealthy elite, the
“New Russians”, suddenly had a vastly
improved standard of living and, for
instance, car ownership in the city
1994
Reconstruction 2000 Vladimir Putin
1989 USSR programme in becomes President
leaves city initiated of Russia
Afghanistan
1990 2000
1991 Yeltsin is elected Boris Yeltsin
president of Russia. with the
August coup fails; Russian flag 2004 Chechen separatists seize school
the USSR is dissolved in Beslan; more than 300 left dead after
in December special forces storm the building
THE HISTORY OF MOSCOW  33
quadrupled between 1991 and
1997. No amount of nightclubs
seemed able to soak up their desire
to party. Much of the city was
renovated in 1997 in honour of
Moscow’s 850th anniversary. The
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
(see p76), demolished by Stalin in
1931, was rebuilt as part of the
restoration programme. This was
also a sign of the renewed
importance of the Orthodox Church, which
was forced underground during the Soviet
weddings, baptisms and religious holidays.
The crime rate fell from its dizzying high in
1995, as the city’s criminal groups,
or mafiya, resolved their territorial
battles. President Putin’s second
term in office from 2004 until
2008 saw Russia grow rich on oil
dollars, and living standards rose
dramatically, especially in the capital.
Moscow However, the global financial crisis
850-years poster in 2009 hit the country hard.
Vladimir Putin was re-elected
President in 2012 for a third term, with
A church wedding, popular once more since religion has gained
new importance among the young
Vladimir
Putin
2008 Putin becomes Prime
Minister while Dmitry Medvedev
takes office as President
2010 2020
2012 Putin becomes
President for the third time
34  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

MOSCOW THROUGH THE YEAR

Muscovites are ready to celebrate at any
time and take their public holidays seriously.
Flowers play a particularly important role,
from mimosa for International Women’s Day
to lilac as a symbol that summer is on its way.
All the official holidays, as well as some local
festivals such as City Day, are marked with
concerts and night-time fireworks all over
the city. Music, whether classical, folk or
contemporary, is the central theme of a large
number of festivals, bringing in talent from
all over the world. For really big celebrations
top Russian and international singers perform
for crowds of thousands in Red Square. Even
without an official holiday, people love to
get out and about, whether skiing in winter,
picnicking in spring or summer, or gathering
mushrooms in autumn.

Folk performers celebrating Maslenitsa
Spring
When flocks of rooks appear
in the city, usually in late
March, and the violets and
snowdrops bloom, spring is
reckoned to have arrived.
To warm themselves up
after the months of cold,
locals celebrate maslenitsa,
the feast of blini-making,
before Lent. Willow
branches with catkins
are gathered as a symbol
of the approaching Palm
Sunday and on Forgiveness
Sunday, just before Lent,
people ask forgiveness of
those they may have offended
in the past year. Wealthy
Easter service, Trinity Monastery of
St Sergius (see pp164–7)
Muscovites usually make
a first visit to their dacha
at this time to put the
garden in order and to
plant their own fruits
and vegetables.
March
Maslenitsa, end Feb–early
Mar. Pancake Week heralds
the coming of spring with
concerts and carnivals
across the city.
International Women’s Day
(Mezhdunarodnyy zhenskyy
den), 8 Mar. Men buy flowers
for their womenfolk and
congratulate them on
the holiday with the words
“s prazdnikom”.
Moscow International
Film Festival, biannually in
Mar and Oct. A glamorous
event attended by celebrities
and the general public.
Easter Sunday (Paskha),
Mar–early May, following the
Orthodox calendar. Churches
are filled with chanting and
candles. After the greeting
Khristos voskres (Christ is
risen) and the reply Voistinu
voskres (He is truly risen),
people kiss one another
three times.
April
April Fools’ Day (Den durakov),
1 Apr. Russians play tricks
with particular glee.
Cosmonauts’ Day (Den
kosmonavtiki), 12 Apr.
Space exploration was one
of the glories of the Soviet
Union and is celebrated
with fireworks.
Moscow Easter Festival,
mid-Apr–mid-May. Nation-
wide classical music event
with concerts at various
city venues.
Alternative Festival, end
Apr–May. Annual modern
music festival in Gorky Park.
War veterans on parade in Red Square on
Victory Day
May
Labour Day (Den truda),
1 May. A much more low-
key event than it once was,
with impromptu concerts.
Victory Day (Den pobedy),
9 May. War veterans fill
Red Square in memory
of the 1945 Nazi surrender.
Night at the Museum,
mid-May. Moscow’s
museums stay open
through the night.
Border Troopers’ Day (Den
pogranichnika), 28 May. Retired
Border Troopers gather at the
Bolshoi Theatre and in Gorky
Park to get drunk, sing and
watch fireworks.
 MOSCOW THROUGH THE YEAR  35

Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Chart

Moscow is often thought
Hours
of as a cold and snowy city.
10
However, it has more hours
8 of sunshine in the summer
months than many cities in
6 northern Europe. May, June
and July are the sunniest
4 months. The short, cold days
of winter provide a stark
2
contrast, with an average
0 of only around one hour
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec of sunshine a day.

remaining in the city; establish- Russia became independent

Summer
Life in Moscow is much less
hectic in July and August as
most enterprises close down for June
their summer breaks and many
Muscovites move out of the
city, either to their dacha or
to spend holidays abroad.
Although most of the
theatres also close or
go on tour for these
two months, there is
still plenty going on
in and around the
city for the visitor to
enjoy. Some of the
large estates and Women dressed in
stately homes national costume
outside Moscow,
such as Kuskovo (see pp144–5)
and Ostankino Palace (see
pp146–7), hold outdoor
concerts at this time of year.
Gorky Park offers a number of
options on a fine summer day – Arkhangelskoe Manor on the
from hiring a rowing boat or
pedalo to enjoying a picnic.
Outdoor cafés and bars are a
favourite with Muscovites
ments compete to have the most
sought-after summer terrace.
Trinity Sunday (Troitsa), late
May late Jun. Believers and
atheists alike go to tidy the
graves of their loved ones and
drink a toast to their souls.
Tchaikovsky International
Competition, Jun, held every
four years (next in
2015 and 2019).
One of the world’s
most prestigious
musical awards (see
p200). Concerts are
held throughout
the city.
Manor Jazz Festival, first week
of Jun. Large open-air festival
with classic and contemporary
jazz, funk, swing, blues and
rock in the leafy grounds of
outskirts of Moscow.
Day of Russia (Den Rossii),
12 Jun. One of the country’s
newest holidays marks the day
of the Soviet Union in 1991.
International Music Festival,
May–Jun. World music is
performed at concert halls
throughout the city.
July
St John the Baptist Day
(Ivan Kupala, or Ivanov den),
6 July. Popular pagan holiday.
Bonfires are lit around the city
and youths leap over the flames
to test their bravery. Couples
leap together as a sign of their
commitment to each other.
Navy Day (Den voenno-
morskovo flota), first Sunday
after 22 July. Spectacular fire-
works are accompanied by
costumed celebrations across
the city. Since Moscow is
not a port city, celebrations
are not on as lavish a scale as
those held in St Petersburg.
Afisha Picnic Festival,
late Jul. This one-day
music festival in Mosow’s
Kolomenskoe Park (see
pp140–41) attracts 50,000
visitors to enjoy both renowned
international artists and local
independent musicians.

August
Summer Music Festival,
throughout Aug. Evening
recitals of classical music fea-
turing distinguished graduates
of the Moscow Conservatory.
Moscow Annual Airshow,
end of Aug, in the town of
Zhukovskiy, south-east of
Moscow. A chance to see
famous Russian aeroplanes.
Russian Cinema Day, 27 Aug.
Showings of favourite, mostly
Russian, films on television and
Relaxing on a summer’s day at an outdoor café in Arbat in cinemas all over the city.
36  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Average Monthly Precipitation Precipitation Chart

mm Inches In the winter months,
precipitation falls mainly
100 4 as snow, most of which
settles until the spring,
80
3 reaching a depth of 35
60 cm (14 in). In summer,
2 even hot days are often
40 interrupted by brief, but
1 heavy, rain showers.
20
Rainfall (from axis)
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Snowfall (from axis)

to the experts. Other popular

Autumn autumnal pastimes include
City life begins to pick up as horse riding at the Hippodrome
people return from the country and taking a boat trip along the
and prepare their children Moskva river.
for school. In the last weeks of
August, Moscow is filled with September
posters noting the advent of New Academic Year (Novyy
the school year and shops uchebnyy god), 1 Sep. The first
are packed with parents buying day back at school. Those going
new school clothes and books. for the first time often take Children with flowers for teachers at the
Theatres open again in flowers with them. start of the new school year
September, with City Day (Den
premieres of plays goroda), first Kremlin Cup, mid–late Oct.
and operas. Sunday in Sep. Russia’s biggest tennis tourna-
The crisp Celebrations are held ment at the Olympic Stadium.
autumn weather all over the city to mark
is perfect for the founding of November
mushroom gathering. Chanterelle Moscow in 1147 (see Students of the Moscow ballet
Muscovites often head mushrooms p19). More low-key than schools give the first of their
out early in the morning it once was as this is annual winter performances at
to the forests around the city to also the anniversary of the various venues. This is the worst
hunt for white (the favourite) Beslan massacre in 2004. month to visit as Moscow is
and brown mushrooms, orange- dirty and slushy.
cap bolens, chanterelles and October Day of National Unity (Den
oyster mushrooms. However, Talents of Russia (Talanty Rossii), Narodnogo Edinstva), 4 Nov.
dangerously poisonous as well 1–10 Oct. Festival of classical Holiday to replace the Day of
as edible mushrooms abound music, with musicians from all Reconciliation (previously
and gathering them is best left over the country. called the Day of the Great
October Revolution).

Public Holidays
New Year’s Holiday (1–5 Jan)
Russian Orthodox
Christmas (7 Jan)
Defender of the Fatherland
Day (23 Feb)
International Women’s Day
(8 Mar)
Easter Sunday
(Mar/Apr/May)
Labour Day (1 May)
Victory Day (9 May)
Day of Russia (12 Jun)
Day of National Unity
(4 Nov)
Open-air folk dancing at Moscow’s City Day celebrations
 MOSCOW THROUGH THE YEAR  37

Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart

The chart shows the
°C °F average minimum
30 86 and maximum temper-
68
atures for each month.
20
Winter temperatures
10 50 well below freezing may
seem daunting, and do limit
0 32 the length of time it is
possible to stay out, but
-10 14
the cold is dry and can be
exhilarating and there
-20 -4
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec is very little wind.

Winter
As the ice thickens and the
snow deepens, people head
outdoors. Gorky (see p131),
Sokolniki and Luzhniki
parks become the venues for
ice-skating and skiing. The
hardened locals, the so-called
“walruses”, break the ice at
Serebryaniy Bor on the western
outskirts of Moscow to take a dip
early every morning.
In the midst of winter sports
come New Year and Christmas.
New Year is the big holiday,
while Christmas is celebrated on
7 January, in accordance with
the Orthodox calendar. Many
people also still celebrate Old
New Year which falls a week
later on 14 January.
One great pleasure of this
season is the Christmas ballet,
The Nutcracker, performed at the
Bolshoi Theatre (see pp92–3)
largely by children.
December
New Year’s Eve (Novyy god), 31
Dec. Still the biggest holiday of
the year, New Year’s Eve is
celebrated with the local
shampanskoe (sparkling wine).
This is primarily a family cele-
bration: at circuses and balls,
actors dress up as the traditional
bringers of presents, the Snow
An ice sculpture of an octopus, part of the
festival in Gorky Park
Maiden and
Grandfather Frost.
More recently,
people have begun
gathering in Red
Square to see in
the New Year.
Svyatoslav Richter
December Nights
(Dekabrskie vechera
imeni Svyatoslava Fisherman fishing through a hole in the ice
Rikhtera), throughout
Dec. Classical music dedicated
to the Russian pianist at the
Pushkin State Museum of Fine
Arts (see pp80–83).
Russian Winter (Russkaya zima), sculptures, usually of fairy-tale
end Dec–mid-Jan. Classical
music festival.
January
Russian Orthodox
Christmas (Rozhdestvo), 7
Jan. Christmas is celeb-
rated in a quieter
fashion than Easter,
with a traditional visit
to an evening service
on Christmas Eve, when
bells ring out through
the frosty air from all
over Moscow. Children’s
celebrations are held at
various venues,
including the Great
Kremlin Palace (see
p65). The parties are
called Yolka Street entertainer Valentine’s Day (Den
(Christmas tree).
Christmas Festival of Sacred
Music, mid-Jan. International
and Russian choirs perform at
the Moscow International
House of Music.
Ice Sculpture Festival in
Gorky Park. This festival lasts for
several months, but it is never
possible to tell exactly when it
will start. It depends entirely on
the weather and some years
can start as early as December.
During the festival Gorky Park is
taken over by numerous ice
characters, which remain in the
park until the thaw.
Tatyana’s Day (Tatyanin den),
25 Jan. St Tatyana’s day is
largely a holiday for
students rather than a
religious holiday, since
the decree founding
Moscow University
(see p96) was signed on
this day in 1755.
February
International Festival
of the Orthodox
Church, throughout Feb.
The music and cultural
heritage of the Orthodox
Church is celebrated in
various city venues.
svyatovo Valentina),
14 Feb. Now a part of Moscow’s
calendar, although it is not as
popular as it is in the West.
Defenders of the Father-
land Day (Den zashchitnika
Otechestva), 23 Feb. Known to
most as “Man’s Day”, this day
originally commemorated men
in the armed forces, but now
celebrates men in general.
 INTRODUCING MOSCOW  39

MOSCOW AT A GLANCE
More than 100 places of interest are
described in the Area by Area section of
this book. These range from the historic
treasures of State and Church, enclosed
within the Kremlin walls, to galleries
housing incomparable religious icons
among spectacular collections of Russian
and Western art. The city’s liveliest streets
and most beautiful parks, which offer
different attractions in winter and summer,
are also included. To help make the most
of a visit, the next 12 pages offer a guide
to the very best that Moscow has to offer.
Museums and architecture each have their
own section, and there is a special feature
on Moscow’s grandiose metro stations.
The sights mentioned here are cross-
referenced to their own full entries for
ease of use. Below is a selection of the
top sights that no visitor should miss.

Moscow’s Top Ten Attractions

Tretyakov Gallery
See pp120–23.

Bolshoi Theatre St Basil’s Cathedral

See pp92–93. See pp110–11.

Kremlin Sights

Kolomenskoe
See pp140–41.

State Armoury
See pp66–7.

Red Square Lenin Mausoleum

See p108. See p109.

Cathedral of Pushkin State

the Assumption Museum of Fine Arts Kuskovo
See pp60–61. See pp80–83. See pp144–5.
St Basil’s Cathedral in Red Square, with its colourful onion domes
40  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations

Not many of the world’s underground railways can claim to be
tourist attractions and artistic monuments in their own right. The
Moscow metro is an exception. Its station platforms and concourses
resemble miniature palaces with chandeliers, sculptures and lavish
mosaics. Moreover, this is one of the busiest and most efficient metro
networks in the world. Some of the finest stations are shown here and
further information can be found on pp42–3. Practical details about
using the metro are given on pp222–3.

Belorusskaya
Named after the nearby
Belorusskiy railway station,
Belorusskaya has a central
hall with mosaics of rural
scenes and a tiled floor based
on a traditional pattern
from a Belorussian rug.

Mayakovskaya TVERSKAYA
A bust of poet Vladimir (See pp86–99)
Mayakovsky stands in this
station, which is named in
his honour. Recesses in the
ceiling contain a series of
mosaics depicting planes
and sporting scenes.

ARBATSKAYA
(See pp70–85)

Kievskaya
Large, ostentatious
mosaics decorate the walls
of this station. They
include idealized
scenes representing
Russia’s friendship
with the Ukraine
and pictures of
Soviet agriculture.

Kropotkinskaya
Clean lines and simple colours
distinguish this elegant station,
designed by Aleksey Dushkin in
the 1930s. It is named after the
anarchist, Prince Pyotr Kropotkin.

Park Kultury
Niches in the walls of this station’s central hall hold white,
marble bas-relief medallions. These show people
involved in various recreational activities such as
ice-skating, reading, playing chess and dancing.
 M O S C O W AT A G L A N C E  41

Teatralnaya
The differing cultures of the republics of the
former Soviet Union provide the theme for
this station. The ceiling panels depict some
of their national costumes.

Komsomolskaya
This is the main entrance to Komsomolskaya
station, named in honour of the Communist
Youth League (Komsomol) which helped to
construct the metro.
RED SQUARE AND
KITAY GOROD
(See pp100–115)

KREMLIN
(See pp54–69)

ZAMOSKVORECHE
(See pp116–127)

0 metres 750

0 yards 750 Ploshchad Revolyutsii

The main hall of this station
contains lifesize bronze
statues of ordinary citizens,
such as a farmer, who helped
to build the Soviet State.

Novokuznetskaya
A bas-relief frieze runs
along the central hall of
this station, which was
constructed in 1943. The
frieze shows a variety of
Russian military heroes, such
as World War II soldiers.
42  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Exploring the Moscow Metro Metro Statistics

When the idea of an underground railway was first proposed The Moscow metro is still
for Moscow in 1902 the idea was rejected by one local expanding, but there are
already 194 stations and about
newspaper as “a staggeringly impudent encroachment on 325 km (202 miles) of track.
everything Russian people hold dear in the city of Moscow”. Almost 10,000 trains operate
By the 1930s, however, the need for better transportation every day, travelling at speeds
had become urgent as the population of the city more than of up to 90 km/h (56 mph).
The Moscow metro carries
doubled to meet the demands of rapid industrialization. 8–9 million passengers per
Two prominent young Communists, Nikita Khrushchev day, more than the London
and Lazar Kaganovich, were entrusted with building a and New York systems
metro that would serve as a showcase for socialism and combined. During peak
periods trains arrive at
the achievements of workers and peasants. stations every 90 seconds.

were subsequently rewarded side of each stands a life-sized

Members of the Communist Youth League
helping to build the metro
Building the Metro
Construction work on the metro
began in December 1931,
during the period of Stalin’s first
Five Year Plan of 1928–33. The
Communist Party decreed that
“the whole country will build
the metro”, so workers – both
men and women – were drafted
in from all over the Soviet
Union. They were assisted by
soldiers of the Red Army and
by over 13,000 members of
the Communist Youth League
(Komsomol).
The latter worked as
volunteers in their free time
and their massive contribution
was commemorated by naming
Komsomolskaya after them.
The materials, too, came from
different parts of the country:
rails from the steelworks of
Kuznetsk, marble from the
Urals and Caucasus and granite
from Karelia and the Ukraine.
Work was completed on the
first 11.6-km (7.2-mile) section
of track, linking Sokolniki with
Park Kultury, in February 1935
and the first 13 stations were
opened in May. Many of those
who had worked on the project
with medals, including the
much-coveted Order of Lenin.
Construction work continued
rapidly and by 1939 there were
22 stations serving over one
million passengers.
Metro Decoration
Some of the Soviet Union’s
finest artists were employed to
decorate the metro. Working
within the confines of Socialist
Realism (see p137), many dealt
with themes such as the
Revolution, national defence
and the Soviet way of life.
The earliest metro stations
are generally regarded as the
most architecturally successful.
Mayakovskaya, designed by
Aleksey Dushkin in 1938, won
the Grand Prix at the New York
World’s Fair. Its spacious halls
are supported by columns of
stainless steel and marble.
Kropotkinskaya (1935) and
Ploshchad Revolyutsii (1938)
are also by Dushkin. The main
hall of the latter has a series of
marble-lined arches. On either
The simple, yet stylish, Mayakovskaya, designed by Aleksey Dushkin
bronze figure cast by sculptor
Matvey Manizer. Red Guards,
workers, sailors, sportsmen
and women, a Young Pioneer
and a mother and child are
among the “everyday heroes”
who made the Revolution
possible or helped to build
the subsequent Soviet State.
Several stations, including
Komsomolskaya, consist of
two or more linked sections on
different metro lines. One of
Komsomolskaya’s two sections,
on the Sokolnicheskaya line,
was built in 1935. Its decor is
relatively restrained, with rose-
coloured marble pillars and
majolica panels by Yevgeniy
Lanseray showing heroic metro
workers. The other station, on
the circle line, was completed
17 years later and is much
more ostentatious, with florid
stucco mouldings and glittering
chandeliers. Designed by
leading architect Aleksey
Shchusev, it was also a
prizewinner at the New York
World’s Fair. The glittering
mosaics showing military

parades and figures from
Russian history are the work
of artist Pavel Korin.
Martial themes predominated
during and after World War II.
At Novokuznetskaya (1943),
for example, architects Vladimir
Gelfreikh and Igor Rozhin
commissioned a bas-relief
frieze from Nikolay Tomskiy
showing Russian military
heroes as diverse as Minin and
Pozharskiy (see p111) and Field
Marshal Kutuzov (see p160).
Many of the stations built in
the 1940s and 1950s extol the
virtues of the Soviet regime.
Ceramic panels at Teatralnaya
(1940) celebrate the arts of the
former Soviet Republics, while
mosaics at Belorusskaya (1952)
and Kievskaya (1937 and 1954)
show healthy, happy peasants
celebrating agricultural abun-
dance. These ignore the terrible
famine that resulted from
Stalin’s forced collectivi-
zation policy of the
early 1930s.
In the Soviet mind,
athletic prowess was
the natural prepa-
ration for heroic
achievement. Sport
and recreation are
the twin themes
of the bas-reliefs Revolutionary figures
by artist Isaak at Belorusskaya
Rabinovich at Park
Kultury (1935 and 1950).
Even the station exteriors
above ground were designed
to work as propaganda. Seen
from above, the entrance to
Arbatskaya (1935) is in the
shape of the Soviet red star.
Although financial constraints
impose limits, artistic leeway was Consequently, the metro system
still possible in the design of
some of the newer stations such
as Chekhovskaya (1987), and
Park Pobedy, the world’s
deepest metro
station, completed
in 2003.
The entrance to Arbatskaya, in the shape of the Soviet red star
M O S C O W AT A G L A N C E  43
Part of Komsomolskaya, designed by architect Aleksey Shchusev
designs for the mosaics at
The Metro and War Novokuznetskaya were made
The early metro lines were laid in Vladimir Frolov’s workshop in
deep underground so that they Leningrad, now St Petersburg,
could be used as bomb shelters during the siege of the city.
in times of war. By November Frolov died of exposure after
1941 German troops had he had completed the work.
reached the outskirts of
Moscow and the Soviet
Union was fighting for Metro Museum
survival. Mayakov- The history and workings of
skaya, completed the Moscow metro are fully
just three years earlier, explained in this interesting
became the head- museum, located above the
quarters of the Anti- main hall of Sportivnaya in
Aircraft Defence Sparrow Hills (see p131). Some
Forces. It was in the rather dated photomontages
station’s central hall show the construction of the
that Stalin addressed track and stations. There are
generals and party numerous displays including
activists on the anniversary of models of trains and escalators, a
the October Revolution in 1941. reconstruction of a driver’s cabin
Kirovskaya (now known as and the first ticket, sold in 1935.
Chistye Prudy) was the head-
quarters of the General Staff E Moscow Metro Museum
throughout World War II. Stalin Sportivnaya metro. Tel (495) 622 7309.
and his advisors planned the first Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Fri,
offensives against the Nazis here. 10am–4:30pm Sat.
became an important symbol of Where to see the
resistance to the Nazi invasion.
In fact, its propaganda
Metro
value was deemed Arbatskaya Map 6 E1
so great that the Belorusskaya Map 1 C2
Chekhovskaya Map 2 F4
Chistye Prudy Map 3 C4
Kievskaya Map 5 B2
Komsomolskaya Map 4 D2
Kropotkinskaya Map 6 E2
Mayakovskaya Map 2 E3
Novokuznetskaya Map 7 B3
Park Kultury Map 6 D4 & 6 E3
Ploshchad Revolyutsii Map 3 A5
Teatralnaya Map 3 A5
44  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Moscow’s Best: Architecture

Visitors to Moscow are often pleasantly surprised by the wealth
and variety of architecture the city has to offer. As well as
magnificent palaces and cathedrals, such as those in the Kremlin,
there are also smaller churches and chapels, homely boyars’
residences, imposing Neo-Classical mansions and some beautiful
municipal buildings. A stark contrast to this older architecture is
provided by early 20th-century Constructivist buildings and Moscow Old University
Communist landmarks such as Stalinist-Gothic skyscrapers. The colonnade of pillars on
For further information about architecture, see pp46–7. the front of this building
and its ochre and white
colouring are typical Neo-
Classical features.

TVERSKAYA
(See pp86–99)

Gorky House-Museum
Stunning stained-glass windows
grace the Gorky House-Museum,
a Style-Moderne masterpiece built
by Fyodor Shekhtel in 1900.

ARBATSKAYA
(See pp70–85)

Cathedral of the Assumption

A miraculous fusion of Renaissance and
Early-Russian styles, this superb cathedral
was built in 1475–9 to a design by Italian
architect Aristotele Fioravanti.

Foreign Ministry
This is one of seven skyscrapers
designed in a hybrid style Pashkov House
often referred to as Stalinist The Neo-Classical Pashkov
Gothic. The Foreign Ministry House, which has been
building was finished in 1952 restored, has a colonnaded
shortly before Stalin’s death. porch with relief sculptures.
 M O S C O W AT A G L A N C E  45

Polytechnical Museum
The central part of the Polytechnical Museum, built
in 1877, is the work of Ippolit Monighetti. It is an
outstanding example of Russian Revival, a style that
draws heavily on the architecture of Russia’s past.

St Basil’s Cathedral
Pointed roofs over the entrance steps and
tiers of arched gables typify the stunning
architectural diversity of this cathedral,
built in 1555–61 for Ivan the Terrible.

RED SQUARE
AND KITAY
GOROD
(See pp100–115)

KREMLIN
(See pp54–69)

Old English Court

Presented to an English trade delegation in 1556,
this 16th-century, whitewashed, stone house has
a wooden roof and few windows.

ZAMOSKVORECHE
(See pp116–127)

0 metres 750

0 yards 750

Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi

This Moscow-Baroque church has tiers of ornate
limestone car vings in place of the kokoshniki
gables normally seen on Early-Russian churches.
The church’s onion domes, previously an
unusual jade green colour, are now gilded.
46  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Exploring Moscow’s Architecture

Russian architecture has always been innovative.
The medieval Novgorod, Yaroslavl and Pskov schools
of architecture developed several of the distinctive
features found on Moscow’s churches. These included
the onion dome, rounded zakomary gables and
kokoshniki gables, which are semi-circular or shaped
like the cross-section of an onion. In later centuries
Moscow’s architects became increasingly influential,
developing new styles, such as Constructivism, and
giving a Russian flavour to others. The Baroque Gate Church of the
Intercession at Novodevichiy

Study in the Chambers of the Romanov Boyars
Early Russian
Moscow’s earliest buildings
were constructed entirely from
wood. From around the 14th
century, stone and brick began
to be used for important
buildings, but wood continued
to be the main building material use, insisting that plans for
until the great fire of 1812
(see p26) when much of the
city was burnt to the ground.
The majority of Moscow’s
oldest surviving buildings are
churches. One of the earliest is
the Cathedral of the Saviour in
the Monastery of the Saviour
and Andronicus (see p142).
In the 15th and 16th centuries
the tsars employed a succession Old English Court (see p104).
The New Patriotism
The reconstruction of the
city’s pre-Revolutionary
buildings, including the Kazan
Cathedral (see p107) and the
Cathedral of Christ the
Saviour (see p76), is evidence
of a growing nostalgia for
Russia’s past, and a renewed
interest in the nation’s
architectural heritage. The
revival of the Orthodox Church,
in particular, has led to the
restoration of hundreds
of churches across Moscow.
of Italian architects
to construct pres-
tigious buildings
in the Kremlin.
They combined
the Early-Russian
style with Italian
Renaissance features
to create magnificent
buildings such as
the Cathedral of
the Assumption (see pp60–61).
Another 16th-century
innovation was the spire-
like tent roof, used, for
example, on St Basil’s
Cathedral (see pp110–11).
In the mid-17th century
Patriarch Nikon banned its
new churches must be based
on ancient Byzantine designs.
The majority of Moscow’s
early secular buildings have
not survived. The few
exceptions include the
ornate 16th-century Chambers
of the Romanov Boyars
(see pp104–5) and the
charming early 16th-century
The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour,
rebuilt in 1994–7
Baroque
The Bridge Tower (1670s) at
Izmaylovo Park (see p143) is
an early example of Moscow
Baroque. Its filigree limestone
trimmings and pilaster decor-
ation, set against a background
of red brick, are typical of the
style. The gate churches in the
Novodevichiy Convent (see
pp132–3), the buildings of the
Krutitskoe Mission (see p142)
and the spectacular Church of
the Resurrection in Kadashi
(see p124), with its limestone
ornamentation carved to
resemble lace, are also fine
examples of this style of
architecture.
A number of Baroque build-
ings, including the Church
of the Intercession in Fili (see
p130), were built with money
from the wealthy and powerful
Naryshkin family. This has led
to Moscow Baroque also being
known as Naryshkin Baroque.
Neo-Classical
The Accession of Catherine
the Great in 1762 heralded
a new direction for Russian
architecture. She favoured the
Neo-Classical style, which drew
on the architecture of ancient
Greece and Rome. This style
has been used to great effect in
the Pashkov House (see p84),
thought to have been designed
by Vasiliy Bazhenov in 1784
(sadly, the building is now
covered by hoarding).
Bazhenov’s assistant, the
prolific Matvey Kazakov,
demonstrated the flexibility
of Neo-Classicism in his designs

for a wide range of buildings,
including churches, hospitals,
the Moscow Old University
(see p96) and the House of
Unions (see pp90–91). He is
best known for the Senate
(see pp68–9) in the Kremlin.
The huge fire that followed
Napoleon’s brief occupation of
the city in 1812 led to a whole-
sale reconstruction. Moscow’s
nobility built new homes along
ulitsa Prechistenka (see p76) in
the newly fashionable Empire
style. Leading architects of this
more decorative style included
Afanasiy Grigorev and Osip
Bove, who designed Theatre
Square (see p90).
A Neo-Classical bas-relief in the House of
Unions, built in the 1780s
Historicism and Style
Moderne
Historicism replaced Neo-
Classicism in the mid-19th
century. It arose from a desire to
create a national style by reviving
architectural styles from the past.
The Great Kremlin Palace (see
p65) and State Armoury (see
pp66–7), both designed by
Konstantin Ton around 1840, are
typical. They combine various
styles including Renaissance,
Classical and Baroque. Ton also
designed the extravagant
The Style-Moderne Gorky House-Museum
M O S C O W AT A G L A N C E  47
The House of Friendship, a wonderful example of Eclecticism
Byzantine-style Cathedral of
Christ the Saviour (see p76), Architecture after the
finished in 1883 and rebuilt Revolution
in 1994 –7. Constructivism was a novel
Eclecticism combined past attempt to combine form
and present architectural styles and function, and was the most
from all over the world to create popular style to emerge in the
fantastical buildings such as the decade after the Revolution.
House of Friendship (see p97), The offices of the newspaper
which was designed by Izvestiya, on Pushkin Square
Vladimir Mazyrin in 1898. (see p99), were designed by
Traditional wooden archi- Grigoriy Barkhin in 1927. His use
tecture and folk art were rich of glass and reinforced concrete
sources of inspiration for the to create geometrical designs is
architects that formulated typical of the Constructivist style.
the Russian-Revival Another leading
style. The flamboyant Constructivist was
Historical Museum Konstantin Melnikov.
(see p108) and The unique Melnikov
Polytechnical House (see p74),
Museum (see p112) which consists
are fine examples of of two interlocking
the genre. However, cylinders, is the
the finest, and most home that he built
functional, is GUM for himself in 1927.
(see p109) designed Mosaic of irises from In the 1930s Stalin
by Aleksandr the frieze around the formulated a grand
Pomerantsev. Gorky House-Museum plan to rebuild large
Style Moderne was areas of the city. He
a radical new architectural favoured a new monumental
style akin to Art Nouveau. style and Constructivism went
One of the earliest examples out of vogue. The monumental
is the Hotel Metropol (see style is exemplified by Aleksey
p90), designed in 1899 by Shchusev’s grandiose “proletar-
Englishman William Walcot. ian” apartments at the lower
The greatest advocate of Style end of Tverskaya ulitsa and
Moderne was Fyodor culminates in Stalinist Gothic.
Shekhtel. The mansion This term is used to describe
he built for Stepan the seven matching skyscrapers
Ryabushinskiy is now erected at key points in the city
the Gorky House- in the 1940s and 1950s. The
Museum (see p97). It Foreign Ministry building (see
is highly unconven- p72), designed by architects
tional and uses mosaic Mikhail Minkus and Vladimir
friezes, glazed brick Gelfreikh, is typical of this style,
and stained glass to which is often called “wedding-
stunning effect. cake” architecture.
48  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Moscow’s Best: Museums State Armoury

This elaborate17th-
century enamel work
Moscow has more than 80 museums offering a is exhibited in the
fascinating insight into the history and culture State Armoury, along
of the people of Russia. Some, such as the with a dazzling array
Tretyakov Gallery and State Armoury, have of gold and silverware,
jewellery and royal
collections including works by world-famous regalia. The current
artists and craftsmen, while others house Armoury building
exhibits of local or specialist interest. Among was constructed in
the most evocative are those commemorating 1844 on the orders
of Tsar Nicholas I.
the lives of artists, writers and musicians.
The rooms where they lived and worked
have been lovingly preserved. For further
information on museums see pp50–51.

Shalyapin House-
Museum
Portraits of the opera
star Fyodor Shalyapin
on display in his former TVERSKAYA
home include formal (See pp86–99)
paintings, images of him
on stage and drawings
by his children.

ARBATSKAYA
(See pp70–85)

Pushkin State Museum

of Fine Arts
As well as a fine collection
of Byzantian and Western
European art from the 8th
to the 18th centuries, this
gallery houses artifacts from
ancient Egypt, Greece and 0 metres 750
Rome, including this
Egyptian funeral mask. 0 yards 750

Tolstoy House-Museum
For over 20 years this traditional house
was the winter home of Leo Tolstoy, author
of the epic novel War and Peace. It is now
an evocative museum which recaptures
the daily lives of the writer and his family.
 M O S C O W AT A G L A N C E  49

Lenin Mausoleum
The red and black pyramid of the Lenin
Mausoleum was erected in 1930 to a
design by architect Aleksey Shchusev.
It contains the embalmed body of
Vladimir Lenin, the first Soviet leader.
Mayakovsky Museum
This thought-provoking museum commemorates
the revolutionary poet, playwright and artist
Vladimir Mayakovsky. The abstract exhibits in
this room symbolize his childhood in Georgia.

Chambers of the
Romanov Boyars
The restored interiors
and luxurious clothes
and possessions in this
house effectively evoke
RED SQUARE AND
KITAY GOROD the daily lives of the
(See pp100–115) Moscow aristocracy
in the 16th and
17th centuries. The
house was con-
KREMLIN structed for boyar
(See pp54–69)
Nikita Romanov.

Further Afield
ZAMOSKVORECHE
(See pp116–127) 0 kilometres 4

0 miles 2

Kuskovo was the rural

estate of the aristocratic
Sheremetev family in the
18th century.

Kolomenskoe
was a favourite
country residence
for Tsar Alexis
Mikhailovich. An
Tretyakov Gallery open-air museum
Valentin Serov’s Girl with Peaches of architecture
(1887) in the Tretyakov Gallery is now forms part
part of the largest collection of of the estate.
Russian art in the world.
50  INTRODUCING MOSCOW

Exploring Moscow’s Museums

Wherever visitors’ interests lie, whether it be in painting
and the fine arts, science, the Revolution, the history
of the Russian theatre or the lives of the nobility, there
will be something in Moscow’s museums to appeal to
them. A number of house-museums have preserved the
former homes of important cultural figures, such as The elegant drawing room of the
novelist Leo Tolstoy. As well as the many museums in Lermontov House-Museum
the city, there are a number of country estates in the area
around Moscow. Several of these, including Kuskovo and House-Museums
Kolomenskoe, are easily accessible by metro and make The houses and apartments
good half-day or day excursions (see p227). However, it where many important Russian
is worth bearing in mind that a number of museums are cultural figures lived have been
currently undergoing much-needed renovation and, in preserved as museums. The
some cases, ideological reassessment. sturdy, timber-framed Tolstoy
House-Museum (see p136)
contains many personal
The Department of Private possessions that belonged
Collections (see p77) is a to Leo Tolstoy. The novelist
new gallery, housed in a and his family spent many
19th-century building. It winters in the house. Among
exhibits previously unseen their regular visitors was the
drawings, watercolours, playwright Anton Chekhov. The
sketches and paintings, house where this writer began
mainly by Russian artists of his career in the 1880s is also
the 19th and 20th centuries. open to the public as the
On the same street, the Chekhov House-Museum
Pushkin State Museum of (see p98). Across the road
Fine Arts (see pp80–83) and from Chekhov’s house is the
The Gallery of 19th- and Shalyapin House-Museum
20th-Century European and (see p85) where the great opera
American Art (see p77), are two singer, Fyodor Shalyapin, lived.
of Moscow’s finest art galleries. Visitors can enjoy the beautifully
Young Acrobat on a Ball, Picasso, in the Gallery The former displays old masters furnished rooms while listening
of European and American Art such as Botticelli, Rubens and to old recordings of his singing.
Rembrandt, while the latter The Stanislavskiy House-
boasts a superb collection Museum (see p95) is the
Painting and Decorative of Impressionist and Post- former home of Konstantin
Arts Impressionist paintings. Stanislavskiy, theatrical director
The world’s most important A superb collection of decor- and the co-founder of the
collection of Russian art is ative and applied art spanning Moscow Arts Theatre (see p94).
on display in the Tretyakov the last seven centuries or so is It contains costumes, props
Gallery (see pp120–23). The housed in the State Armoury and other memorabilia.
gallery owns over 160,000 (see pp66–7) in the Kremlin. Along with a few items once
works, but only a fraction There are rooms devoted to owned by Alexander Pushkin,
of them are on show at any arms and armour, jewellery, the Pushkin House-Museum
one time. They include, gold and silverware, religious (see p75) contains an interesting
among others, paintings vestments and imperial regalia. display of pictures that show
by most of the group of what Moscow was like in 1831,
artists called the Wanderers when the poet lived here. The
(peredvizhniki). The gallery’s Bely House-Museum (see p75),
extensive collection of Post- in the building next door, was
Revolution (20th-century) once the home of the Symbolist
art is now housed in the poet, Andrei Bely. Nearby is the
Tretyakov on Krymsky Val Skryabin House-Museum (see
(see p137). The Tropinin p74), the last home of composer
Museum (see pp126–7) has Aleksandr Skryabin. The tower
a fine collection of works blocks of Novyy Arbat dwarf the
by the 19th-century portrait Lermontov House-Museum
artist Vasiliy Tropinin and A 16th-century Persian shield on (see pp84–5), the simple timber
his contemporaries. display in the State Armoury house where Pushkin’s

contemporary, the poet Mikhail
Lermontov, was brought up in
the early 1830s.
The extraordinary life of
Vladimir Mayakovsky is bril-
liantly realized in the displays
in the Mayakovsky Museum
(see p113). This apartment,
near the former KGB building
(see p114), is where the Futurist
poet lived from 1919 to 1930.
The artist Viktor Vasnetsov
designed his own home. In his
studio, now the Vasnetsov
House-Museum (see p146),
visitors can see his enormous
canvases based on folk tales.
The Tchaikovsky House-
Museum (see p161) at Klin
still contains furnishings
used by composer Pyotr
Tchaikovsky, including the
desk where he finished his
Sixth Symphony.
Country Estates
Several palaces and estates
on the outskirts of Moscow
are open to the public.
Ostankino Palace (see pp146–
7), built in the 18th century
for the fabulously wealthy
Sheremetev family, is famous
for its exquisite theatre, where
serf actors and musicians once
took the stage. Kuskovo
(see pp144–5) was also built
for the Sheremetevs. In the
palace’s beautiful gardens is
a ceramics museum.
A number of superb 16th-
and 17th-century buildings
still stand at the former royal
estate of Kolomenskoe (see
pp140–41). Also on the estate
is a fascinating museum of
wooden architecture.
Picturesque, Gothic-style
ruins are all that remain of the
palace at Tsaritsyno (see p139).
This ambitious project was
commissioned by Catherine
the Great. The original building
was not to her liking so she
ordered that it should be
rebuilt, but the palace was
never finished.
Works of art by 19th- and
20th-century Russian artists
are on show at the Abramtsevo
Estate-Museum (see p162),
which was formerly an
artists’ colony.
M O S C O W AT A G L A N C E
Sweet wrappers, boxes and scales in the Museum of Modern History
History Museums
A number of museums and
other sites in and around
the city provide fascinating
glimpses into Moscow’s past.
The Historical Museum (see
p108) traces the history of Russia
from the ice age to the present
day. Permanent collections
include the 13th-century
Mongol Invasion of Eastern
Europe and the Russian
Orthodox Church in the
16th and 17th Centuries.
The life of the boyars (see p22)
in Moscow in the early 17th
century is re-created in the
Chambers of the Romanov
Boyars (see pp104–5).
Visitors interested in
Napoleon’s winter invasion
of Russia in 1812 (see pp25–7)
will want to make the day
trip to Borodino (see p160).
This was the scene of one of
the bloodiest encounters of
the campaign. There are more
than 30 monuments around
the battlefield and a museum
nearby tells the story of the
battle. They may also like to
visit the Borodino Panorama
Museum (see p131) on
Kutuzovskiy prospekt.
This circular pavil-
ion contains an
enormous painting
of the famous
battle.
The monumental
scale of the Lenin
Mausoleum (see
p109), containing
Lenin’s embalmed
body, gives an
insight into the
importance of the A model of a reactor from a nuclear power station, one of the
role played by displays at the Polytechnical Museum
The imposing Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and Patriarshy Bridge
 51
Lenin (see pp29–30) in 20th-
century Russian history.
Displays at the Museum
of Contemporary History
(see p99) cover Russian history
from 1900 until the collapse of
the Soviet Union in 1991. Sweet
wrappers depicting Marx
and Lenin and home-made
grenades are among
the exhibits.
The Museum of the Great
Patriotic War (see p131) has
maps, models and dioramas
of major battles from World
War II, shown largely from a
Soviet viewpoint.
Specialist Museums
Among the city’s handful of
specialist museums is the
Polytechnical Museum (see
p112), which charts important
developments in science and
technology in Russia.
The Bakhrushin Theatre
Museum (see p127) houses
an exciting collection of
theatre memorabilia, including
ballet shoes worn by Taglioni,
while the Shchusev Museum
of Architecture (see p152)
gives a history of Russian
architecture.
 MOSCOW
AREA BY AREA

The Kremlin 54–69

Arbatskaya 70–85
Tverskaya 86–99
Red Square and
Kitay Gorod 100–115
Zamoskvoreche 116–127
Further Afield 128–147
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  55

THE KREMLIN
Citadel of the Tsars, headquarters of the the Cathedral of the Assumption and the
Soviet Union and now the residence of the Faceted Palace, among other buildings,
Russian president, for centuries the Kremlin in a fascinating fusion of Early-Russian
has been a symbol of the power of the State. and imported Renaissance styles (see p46).
In 1156, Prince Yuriy Dolgorukiy chose the The Kremlin did not escape the
confluence of the Moskva and Neglinnaya architectural vandalism of the 1930s,
rivers as the site for the first wooden Kremlin when it was closed and several of its
(kreml means “fortress”). Late in the 15th churches and palaces were destroyed on
century, Tsar Ivan III (see p20) invited Stalin’s orders (see p77). Only in 1955, two
several leading Italian architects to build years after his death, was the Kremlin
a sumptuous new complex. They designed partially reopened to the public.

Sights at a Glance
Churches and Cathedrals q Great Kremlin Palace
5 Cathedral of the Assumption pp60–61 e Saviour’s Tower
6 Cathedral of the Archangel r Presidential Administration
7 Cathedral of the Annunciation t Senate
9 Church of the Deposition of the Robe y Arsenal

Historic Buildings and Monuments Museums

1 Trinity Tower 3 Patriarch’s Palace
2 State Kremlin Palace w State Armoury pp66–7
4 Ivan the Great Bell Tower Gardens
8 Faceted Palace
u Alexander Gardens
0 Terem Palace

MANEZHNAYA
PLOSHCHAD
ЦA
УЛИ

See also Street Finder

maps 6 & 7
Biblioteka imeni Lenina/
Aleksandrovskiy Sad
230m (250 yards)
SENATSKAYA
PLOSHCHAD
AЯ

TR O IT
SK AYA
EЖH

U LI TS
A
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SA
IT
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PLOSHCHAD
TAYNITSKIY
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PLOSHCHAD
SA
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РЕЖНА
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O V IT
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Borovitskaya TAYNITSKIY КРЕМ
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250m (270 yards)
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NA
BOROVITSKAYA
PLOSHCHAD M o
A YA v a
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0 metres 200

Bolshoi 0 yards 200

Kamennyy
Most

The splendid St Andrew’s Hall (Throne Hall) in the Great Kremlin Palace For keys to symbols see back flap
56  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Street by Street: The Kremlin

The Kremlin is home to the Russian president and the seat of his
administration. As a result less than half of it is accessible to the
Ticket
public, but highlights including the State Armoury, the Patriarch’s office
Palace and the churches in Cathedral Square are open to visitors.
Christians have worshipped on this site for more than eight
centuries, but their early stone churches were demolished
in the 1470s to make way for the present magnificent
ensemble of cathedrals. In imperial times, these were
the setting for great state occasions such as
coronations, baptisms and burials.

1 Trinity Tower
Napoleon marched in triumph
through this gate when
he entered the Kremlin in
0 metres 50
1812 (see pp25–7). He left
defeated a month later. 0 yards 50

2 State Kremlin Palace

Originally built in 1961
for Communist Party
congresses, the palace
is now used for a range
of cultural events.

0 Terem Palace
A chequered roof
and 11 golden
cupolas topped
by crosses are all
that is visible of
this hidden jewel
of the Kremlin.
q Great Kremlin Palace
The palace contains several vast
ceremonial halls. The sumptuous
stucco work of St George’s Hall
provides a magnificent backdrop
for state receptions. Its marble
walls are inscribed with the
names of military heroes.

w . State Armoury
The State Armoury was designed by
Konstantin Ton to complement the Great
Kremlin Palace. Constructed in 1844–51, Borovitskaya
this building is now a museum. It houses Tower, and
the stunning imperial collections of entrance if Key
decorative and applied art and the priceless visiting State
State Diamond Fund Armoury only. Suggested route
 THE KREMLIN  57

9 Church of the Deposition RED SQUARE

AND VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of the Robe T VERSKAYA KITAY GOROD
This graceful church was Practical Information
the domestic church of the Map 7 A1 & A2. Tel (495) 697
metropolitans and patriarchs. 0349. Open 10am–5pm Fri–Wed.
KREMLIN & Tickets (including separate
tickets for the State Armoury)
Church of the Twelve a are sold at the Kremlin entrance
sk v
Mo and separately at some sights.
Apostles (see p59) ZAMOSKVORECHE
7 complex, but not buildings.
Locator Map 8 English (book in advance
See Street Finder maps 6 & 7
on (495) 697 4115). 9 State
Armoury. = ∑ kreml.ru
Transport
The Tsar Cannon, q Biblioteka imeni Lenina,
cast in 1586, Borovitskaya. @ 6, К.  1, 2,
weighs a massive 12, 33.
40 tonnes.

3 Patriarch’s
Palace
This imposing
palace, rebuilt
for Patriarch
Nikon in 1652–
6, now houses
the Museum of
17th-Century Life
and Applied Art.

Tsar Bell 4 Ivan the Great Bell Tower

(see p59) When the third storey was
added to this beautiful octagonal
bell tower in 1600, it became
the tallest building in Russia.

6 Cathedral of the Archangel

The tomb of Tsarevich Dmitry,
the younger son of Ivan
the Terrible, is one of many
found in this cathedral.

Cathedral Square

8 Faceted Palace
Two Italian architects, Marco Ruffo
and Pietro Solario, constructed
this striking Renaissance palace
between 1485 and 1491.
5 . Cathedral of
the Assumption
This 12th-century painting of
7 Cathedral of the Annunciation St George the Warrior is one
Frescoes cover the walls and ceiling of this of the oldest surviving Russian
cathedral. In the dome above the iconostasis icons. It forms part of the
is a painting of Christ Pantocrator, above tiers iconostasis in the cathedral’s
of pictures of angels, prophets and patriarchs. richly decorated interior.
58  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
and the Kutafya Tower is the
sole survivor of the circle of
towers that were originally built
to defend the Kremlin walls.
In September 1812 Napoleon
triumphantly marched his army
into the Kremlin through the
Trinity Gate – they left only a
month later when the Russians
set fire to the city (see pp26–7).
2 State Kremlin
Palace
Ґосуддрственныи
Кремлёвский дворєц
Gosudarstvennyy Kremlevskiy
dvorets
Trinity Tower, with the modern Palace of
Congresses on the right The Kremlin. Map 7 A1. Open for
performances only.
1 Trinity Tower
Трoицкая башня Commissioned by Russian
Troitskaya bashnya premier Nikita Khrushchev
in 1959 to host Communist
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
Party conferences, the Palace
This tower takes its name of Congresses is the Kremlin’s
from the Trinity Monastery only modern building. It was
of St Sergius (see pp164–7), completed in 1961 by a team
which once had a mission of architects led by Mikhail
nearby. The tower’s Trinity Posokhin. Roughly
Gate used to be the entrance 120 m (395 ft) long,
for patriarchs and the tsars’ the palace was sunk
wives and daughters. Today 15 m (49 ft) into the
it is one of only two that admit ground so as not
visitors. The other is in the to dwarf the
Borovitskaya Tower (see p68) surrounding
to the southwest. buildings. Tsarevich Alexis’ school book 17th-Century Life
At 76 m (249 ft) high, the Until 1991 the
seven-storey Trinity Tower is the 6,000-seat auditorium
Kremlin’s tallest. It was built in was the venue for political
1495–9 and in 1516 was linked meetings. Now it is used by
by a bridge over the Neglinnaya the Kremlin Ballet Company
river to the Kutafya Tower. The (see p200) and for staging
river now runs underground operas and rock concerts.
Refurbished residence of a boyar in the Patriarch’s Palace
3 Patriarch’s Palace
Патриарший дворец
Patriarshiy dvorets
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
Open 10am–5pm Fri–Wed. &
The metropolitans of the
Russian Orthodox Church lived
on the site of the current
Patriarch’s Palace for many
years. In the 16th century, the
patriarchate was created, and
the patriarch took over from
the metropolitans as the most
senior figure in the Russian
Church. As a result the bishops
of Krutitsy became metro-
politans (see p142) while the
patriarch lived in the Kremlin.
When Nikon became the
patriarch in 1652, he felt that
the existing residence and the
small Church of the Deposition
of the Robe (see pp64–5) were
not grand enough for him. He
had the residence extended
and renovated to create the
Patriarch’s Palace, with its
integral Church of the Twelve
Apostles. Completed in 1656,
the work was carried
out by a team of
master builders led
by Ivan Semenov and
Aleksey Korolkov.
The palace is now
the Museum of
and Applied Art. It
comprises an exhibition hall
and more than 1,000 exhibits
drawn from the State Armoury
collection (see pp66–7) and from
churches and monasteries that
were destroyed by Stalin in the
1930s (see p77).
Entry to the museum is up
a short flight of stairs. The first
room houses an exhibition on
the history of the palace. In the
Cross Chamber is a dazzling
array of 17th-century patriarchs’
robes. Some of Nikon’s own
vestments are on display,
including a chasuble (sakkos),
a set of beautifully carved
staffs and a cowl made
from damask and satin, and
embroidered with gold thread.
Two rooms in the museum
have been refurbished in the
style of a 17th-century boyar’s
apartment. In one of them is
a display of old, handwritten
 THE KREMLIN  59

books, including Tsarevich

Alexis’ primer. Each page
features one letter of the alpha-
bet and a selection of objects
beginning with that letter.
The impressive Chamber
of the Cross, to the right of the
stairs, has an area of 280 sq m
(3,013 sq ft). When this cere-
monial hall was built, it was the
largest room in Russia without
columns supporting its roof. Its
ceiling is painted with a delicate
tracery of flowers. The room was
later used for producing conse-
crated oil called miro, and the
silver vats and ornate stove
used still stand in the room.
Nikon’s rejection of new
architectural forms, such as tent
roofs, dictated a traditional
design for the Church of the
Twelve Apostles. Located to
the left of the stairs, it houses
some brilliant icons, including
works by master iconographers
such as Semen Ushakov. The Ivan the Great Bell Tower, with the Assumption Belfry and annexe
iconostasis dates from around
1700. It was brought to the 4 Ivan the Great Kremlin. The tent-roofed
church from the Kremlin Bell Tower annexe next to the belfry was
Convent of the Ascension commissioned by Patriarch
Колокольня Ивана
prior to its demolition in 1929. Filaret in 1642.
Великого
Outside the bell tower is
Kolokolnya Ivana Velikovo the enormous Tsar Bell. The
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1. largest in the world, it weighs
over 200 tonnes. When it fell
This elegant bell tower was from the bell tower and
built in 1505–8 to a design shattered in a fire in 1701, the
by Marco Bon Friazin. It takes fragments were used in a sec-
its name from the Church of ond bell ordered by Tsarina
St Ivan Climacus, which stood Anna. This still lay in its casting
on the site in the 14th century. pit when the Kremlin caught
The bell tower is called “the fire again in 1737. Cold water
Great” because of its height. was poured over the hot bell
In 1600 it became the tallest and a large piece (displayed
building in Moscow when Tsar beside the bell) broke off.
Boris Godunov added a
Patriarch Nikon third story to extend it
to 81 m (266 ft).
A zealous reformer of the
The four-storey
Russian Orthodox Church,
Assumption Belfry,
Patriarch Nikon was so intent
on returning it to its Byzantine with its single gilded
roots that he caused his dome, was built beside
adversaries, the Old Believers, the bell tower by Petrok
to split from the rest of the Maliy in 1532–43. It
Church. Nikon also advocated holds 21 bells, the
the supremacy of Church over largest of which, the
State, angering Tsar Alexis (see 64-tonne Assumption
p21). His autocratic style made Bell, traditionally tolled
him unpopular and he three times when the
retreated to a monastery tsar died. A small
outside the city. He was museum on the first
deposed in 1667. floor houses changing The Tsar Bell, the largest in the world, with the
displays about the 11.5-tonne section that broke off
60  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

5 Cathedral of the Assumption

Успенский собор
Uspenskiy sobor
From the early 14th century, the Cathedral of the Assumption was the most
important church in Moscow. It was here that princes were crowned and the
metropolitans and patriarchs of the Orthodox Church were buried. In the
1470s Ivan the Great (see p20) decided to build a more imposing cathedral,
to reflect the growing might of the nation during his reign. When the first
version collapsed, possibly in an earthquake, Ivan summoned the Italian
architect Aristotele Fioravanti to Moscow. He designed a light and
spacious masterpiece in the spirit of the Renaissance.

. Frescoes
In 1642–4, a team of artists
headed by Sidor Pospeev
and Ivan and Boris Paisein
painted these frescoes.
The walls of the cathedral
were first gilded to give
the look of an illuminated
manuscript.

KEY

1 The Tabernacle contains holy

relics including the remains
of Patriarch Hermogen, who starved
to death in 1612 during the Polish
invasion (see p21).
2 The Tsarina’s Throne (17th–
19th centuries) is gilded and has
a double–headed eagle crest.
3 Metropolitans’ and patriarchs’
tombs line the walls of the nave and
the crypt. Almost all of the leaders of
the Russian Orthodox Church are
buried in the cathedral.
4 Orthodox cross
5 The golden domes stand on
towers inset with windows which
allow light to flood into the interior
of the cathedral.
6 Frescoes in the central dome
7 The pillars that stand in the
centre of the cathedral are painted
with over 100 figures of canonized
martyrs and warriors.
8 Royal Gate
9 The Harvest Chandelier
contains silver recovered from the
French after their occupation of
the city in 1812 (see pp25–7).
Western door and
0 The Patriarch’s Seat was carved main entrance
from white stone in 1653 for use
by the head of the Russian
Orthodox Church.
q Monomakh Throne
 THE KREMLIN  61

Scenes from the Life

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of Metropolitan Peter
This 15th-century icon was
Practical Information
made in the workshop of
Kremlin. Map 7 A1. Open 10am–
Dionysius, albeit not by the
5pm Fri–Wed. &  religious
master himself. Located on
holidays. ∑ kreml.ru
the cathedral’s south wall, it
depicts events in the life of this Transport
religious and political leader. q Alexandrovskiy sad, Biblioteka
imeni Lenina, Borovitskaya. @ 6,
К. v 1, 2, 12, 16, 33.

. Iconostasis
The haunting 14th-
century Icon of the
Saviour Not Made With
Hands is one of several
icons forming part of
the cathedral’s iconos-
tasis The iconostasis
itself dates from 1652.

South Portal
This splendid arched portal,
decorated with 17th-century
frescoes, was the entrance used
for royal processions. Brought to
Moscow from Suzdal in 1401 the
door’s reverse side is engraved
with scenes from the Bible.

The Monomakh Throne

The royal seat of Ivan the Terrible (see p20)
is decorated with carvings relating the
exploits of Prince Vladimir Monomakh
(see p163). The panels depict his
military campaigns and one shows
him receiving the crown from the
Byzantine emperor Constantine
Monomachus. This legend was
used to confer legitimacy on the
idea that the Russian monarchs
were the heirs to Byzantium.

Inscribed legend of
Prince Vladimir

Panels depicting
scenes from Vladimir’s life
62  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
6 Cathedral of the
Archangel
Архангельский собор
Arkhangelskiy sobor
The Kremlin. Map 7 A2. &
This was the last of the great
cathedrals in the Kremlin to be
built. It was commissioned by
Ivan III in 1505, shortly before
his death. Designed by a
Venetian architect, Aleviz Novyy, form of a white dove,
it combines Early-Russian and
Italian Renaissance architecture.
The most striking of the Italian
features is the scallop shell motif structed in 1680–81.
underneath the zakomary
gables (see p46).
This site was the burial place
for Moscow’s princes and tsars
from 1340, first in an earlier
cathedral and then in the cur-
rent building. The tombs of the
tsars, white stone sarcophagi
with bronze covers inscribed in
Old Slavonic, are in the nave.
The tomb of Tsarevich Dmitry,
the youngest son of Ivan the
Terrible (see p20), has a carved,
painted canopy above it. The
tsars were no longer buried
here after the capital city was
moved to St Petersburg in 1712. missioned by Ivan III in 1484
Peter II, who died of smallpox in as a royal chapel, it stands
Moscow in 1730, was the only
later ruler to be buried here.
The walls, pillars and domes
of the cathedral are covered
with frescoes painted in 1652–
66 by a team of artists led by
Semen Ushakov, the head of
the icon workshop in the State
Armoury (see pp66–7). There are fire in 1547, the corner chapels
over 60 full-length idealized
The fresco in the central cupola of the Cathedral of the Archangel
portraits of Russian rulers,
as well as some striking
images of the Archangel
Michael, traditionally the
protector of the rulers
of early Moscow.
The fresco in the
cathedral’s central cupola
depicts the threefold
nature of God. The Father
holds the Son on his lap
and the Holy Spirit, in the
hovers between them.
The four-tiered
iconostasis was con- The glorious Cathedral of the Annunciation
However, the Icon of the
Archangel Michael on the lowest façade is the Groznenskiy
tier dates from the 14th century.
7 Cathedral of the
Annunciation
Благовещенский собор
Blagoveshchenskiy sobor
The Kremlin. Map 7 A2. Open
10am–5pm Fri–Wed. &
Unlike the other Kremlin
cathedrals, which were created
by Italians, this cathedral is a
wholly Russian affair. Com-
beside the Faceted Palace (see
p64), which is all that remains
of a large palace built for Ivan III
around the same time. The
cathedral, built by architects
from Pskov (see p46), originally
had three domes and open
galleries on all sides but, after a
were added and the galleries
were enclosed. On the south
Porch, added by Ivan the
Terrible when he contravened
church law by marrying for
the fourth time in 1572. Barred
from attending religious ser-
vices, he could only watch
through a grille in the porch.
The whole of the interior
of the cathedral, including
the galleries, is painted with
frescoes. The painter of the
artwork around the iconostasis
is uncertain, but it may have
been painted in 1508 by the
monk Feodosius, the son of
the icon painter Dionysius.
The warm colours of the
frescoes create an atmosphere
of intimacy (this was the tsars’
family church). At the same
time the vertical thrust of the
pillars draws the eye upwards
to the cupola and its awe-
inspiring painting of Christ
Pantocrator (Christ as ruler
of the universe).
Three of the greatest masters
of icon painting in Russia
contributed to the iconostasis,
widely considered the finest in
Russia. Theophanes the Greek
painted the images of Christ,
the Virgin and the Archangel
Gabriel in the Deesis Tier, while
the Icon of the Archangel
Michael on this tier is attributed
to Andrey Rublev. Several of the
icons in the Festival Tier,
including The Annunciation and
The Nativity were also painted
by Rublev. Most of the other
icons in this tier, including
the The Last Supper and The
Crucifixion are the work of
Prokhor Gorodetskiy.
 THE KREMLIN  63

The Art of Icon Painting in Russia

The Russian Orthodox church uses icons for both worship and teaching and there are
strict rules for creating each image. Icons were thought to be imbued with power from
the saint they depicted and were invoked for protection during wars. Because content
was more important than style, old revered icons were often repainted. The first icons
were brought to Russia from Byzantium. Kiev was Russia’s main icon painting centre until
the Mongols conquered it in 1240. Influential schools then sprang up in Novgorod and
the Vladimir-Suzdal area. The Moscow school was founded in the late 14th century and
its greatest period was during the 15th century, when renowned icon-painters such as
Andrey Rublev and Dionysius were at work.

Theophanes the Greek

(c.1340–1405) is thought
to have painted this icon
of the Assumption (ascent
into heaven) of the Virgin
Mary. Originally from
Byzantium, Theophanes
became famous first in
Novgorod and then in
Moscow. The figures in his
icons are renowned for
their delicate features and
individual expressions.
The Virgin of Vladimir,
from 12th-century
Byzantium, is highly
venerated and has had a
profound influence on
Russian iconography.

Iconostasis
Separating the sanctuary from the main part of the church, the
iconostasis also symbolizes the boundary between the spiritual
and temporal worlds. The icons are arranged in tiers (usually four,
five or six), each with its own subject matter and significance.

The Festival Tier The top tier of

depicts important the iconostasis Andrey Rublev became
feast days and hol- depicts patriarchs a monk at the Trinity
idays in the Russian and prophets Monastery of St Sergius
Orthodox calendar. of the Old (see pp164–7). Later he
Testament. moved to a monastery
in Moscow. Rublev
The Deesis Tier painted this icon of the
is the most
Archangel Michael in
Christ Enthroned important in the
is always shown iconostasis and about 1410. The bene-
at the centre of depicts saints, volent appearance of
the Deesis Tier, and apostles and the archangel is typical
is normally flanked archangels. of Rublev’s figures.
by the Virgin Mary
and John the Baptist.

The Royal Gate, at the centre of the

Local Tier, is usually decorated with
panels showing the four apostles and
An additional tier the Annunciation – when Mary learns
between the Local and she is to bear the Son of God. The gate
Deesis Tiers often depicts represents the entrance from the
the months of the year. temporal to the spiritual world.
The Local Tier contains icons
of saints with a strong link
to the church, such as the
church’s namesake or saints
after whom patrons of the
church were named.
64  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
The enormous vaulted main hall of the Faceted Palace, which was lavishly repainted in the 1880s
8 Faceted Palace
Грановитая палата
Granovitaya palata
The Kremlin. Map 7 A2. Closed to
public.
In the 19th century, the
Faceted Palace, along with
the Terem Palace, was
incorporated into the Great
Kremlin Palace. Named after
its distinctive stonework
façade, the Faceted Palace is
all that is left of a larger
15th-century royal palace. It
was commissioned by Ivan III
(see p20) in 1485 and finished
6 years later. The Faceted Palace
is the work of two
Italian architects, Marco Ruffo
and Pietro Solario.
The southern façade of the Faceted Palace, with the Red Staircase
The first floor of the Faceted
Palace consists of the main hall
and adjoining Sacred Vestibule.
Both are decorated with rich
frescoes and gilded carvings.
The splendid vaulted main hall
has an area of about 500 sq m
(5,380 sq ft). It was the throne
room and banqueting hall of
the tsars and is now used for
holding receptions.
On the palace’s southern
façade is the Red Staircase. The
tsars passed down this staircase
on their way to the Cathedral of
the Assumption for their
coronations. The last such
procession was at the coro-
nation of Nicholas II in 1896.
In the Streltsy Rebellion of 1682
(see p24) several of Peter the
Great’s relatives were hurled
down the Red Staircase onto
the pikes of the Streltsy guard.
Demolished by Stalin in the
1930s, the staircase was rebuilt
in 1994 at great expense.
9 Church of the
Deposition of
the Robe
Церковь Ризположения
Tserkov Rizopolozheniya
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1. &
Crowned by a single golden
dome, this beautiful, but simply
designed, church was built as
the domestic church of the
metropolitans in 1484–6. It was
designed by architects from
Pskov (see p46).
The church is named after a
Byzantine feast day, which
celebrates the arrival, in the city
of Constantinople, of a robe
supposed to have belonged to
the Virgin Mary. The robe is
believed to have saved the city
from invasion several times.
The exterior of the church has
distinctive ogee arches, which
are shaped like the cross-section
of an onion and feature on
many Russian churches from
this period. They are a favourite
device of the Pskov school of
architecture. Inside the church,

the walls and slender columns
are covered with 17th-century
frescoes by artists including
Ivan Borisov, Sidor Pospeev and
Semen Abramov. Many depict
scenes from the life of the
Virgin. Others depict Christ,
the prophets, royalty and the
Moscow metropolitans.
The impressive iconostasis
was created by Nazariy Istomin
in 1627. To the left of the royal
gate is a splendid image of the
Trinity and to its right is the
patronal Icon of the Deposition
of the Virgin’s Robe.
The small, single-domed Church of the
Deposition of the Robe
0 Terem Palace
Теремной двороц
Teremnoy dvorets
The Kremlin. Map 7 A2. Closed to
public.
Commissioned by Tsar Mikhail
Romanov (see p21), the Terem
Palace was built next to the
Faceted Palace in 1635–7. It
was constructed by a team
of stonemasons led by
Bazhen Ogurtsov. The palace
takes its name from the terem,
a pavilion-like structure with
a red and white chequered
roof on top of the main
building. The interior has
small, low-vaulted, simply
furnished rooms.
The Tsar had five sumptuous
rooms situated on the third
floor of the palace. The ante-
room, where boyars (see p22)
and foreign dignitaries waited
to be received, leads into the
council chamber, where the tsar
held meetings with boyars.
Beyond this are the throne
The ornately decorated anteroom in the Terem Palace
room, the tsar’s bedchamber
and a small prayer room.
Most of the splendid Terem
Palace is not visible from the
areas of the Kremlin to which
the public have access. The
eleven richly decorated onion
domes of the four palace
churches, at one end of the
palace, are all that can be seen.
q Great Kremlin
Palace
Большой Кремлёвский
дворец
Bolshoy Kremlevskiy dvorets
The Kremlin. Map 7 A2. Closed to
public.
The impressive 125-m (410-ft)
façade of this yellow and white
palace is best admired from the
Kremlin embankment, outside
the Kremlin walls. The Great
Kremlin Palace was built to
replace the 18th-century
Kremlin Palace that previously
The Great Kremlin Palace viewed from the Kremlin embankment
THE KREMLIN  65
stood on the
site but had
become dilapi-
dated. In 1837
Tsar Nicholas I
commissioned
the Great
Kremlin Palace
as the Moscow
residence of
the royal family,
where they
stayed when
visiting from
St Petersburg,
then the capital.
Designed by a team of
architects led by Konstantin
Ton (see p47), it took 12 years
to build. Ton’s design integrated
the Terem and Faceted Palaces
with the new palace, creating
a single complex. He also
rebuilt the State Armoury
(see pp66–7).
On the palace’s ground floor
are the luxurious private rooms
of the royal family. The state
chambers, on the first floor,
include several vast ceremonial
halls. The imposing St George’s
Hall has white walls engraved in
gold with the names of those
awarded the Order of St George,
one of Russia’s highest military
decorations.
Despite spending massive
amounts on the interior, the tsar
rarely used the palace. In the
1930s two of the halls were
joined to form a huge meeting
room for the Supreme Soviet.
Now the palace’s halls are used
to receive foreign dignitaries.
66  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

w State Armoury
Oружейная палата
Oruzheynaya palata

The collection of the State Armoury represents the wealth

accumulated by Russian princes and tsars over many centuries.
The first written mention of a state armoury occurs in 1508, but
there were forges in the Kremlin producing weapons and
armour as early as the 13th century. Later, gold- and silversmiths,
workshops producing icons and embroidery, and the Office of
the Royal Stables all moved into the Kremlin. The original
armoury was demolished in 1960 to make way for the State . Fabergé Eggs
Kremlin Palace (see p58). The current State Armoury was built This egg, also a musical box,
as a museum on the orders of Nicholas I. It was designed by was made in 1904 in the
St Petersburg workshops
Konstantin Ton (see p47) in 1844 and was completed in 1851. of the famous House of
Fabergé. The egg forms
Arms and armour made in the part of a stylized model
Kremlin workshops are on show of the Kremlin.
here, along with items from
Western Europe and Persia.
2

Carriages and Sledges

This magnificent collection includes the
beautiful gilded summer carriage shown
here. It was presented to Catherine the
Great (see p25) by Count Orlov. The oldest
5
carriage displayed was a gift from King
James I of England to Boris Godunov.

First Floor
9

The State Diamond Fund

This dazzling exhibition of diamonds, crowns, jewellery and
state regalia includes the famous Orlov Diamond. Taken Ground
from an Indian temple, it was one of many presents given floor
to Catherine the Great by her lover Count Grigoriy Orlov.
The tsarina had it mounted at the top of her Ambassadors’ gifts,
sceptre. Also on show are presented by visiting
Catherine’s imperial crown, emissaries from the
inset with almost 5,000 Netherlands, Poland,
gems, and the Shah England and Scandinavia
Diamond, which are displayed here.
was given to Tsar The Orlov Diamond on the
Nicholas I by Shah Mirza. sceptre of Catherine the Great Main entrance from the
Kremlin grounds
 THE KREMLIN  67

. Crown of Monomakh VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Emperor Constantine Monomachus
was said to have given this 13th-
or 14th-century gold crown to
Vladimir Monomakh (see p61).
Decorated with sable and
gems, it was used at royal
coronations until 1682.
Stairs to first floor Stairs to
ground floor
1 Precious
fabrics
Practical Information
The Kremlin. Map 7 A2. Tel (495)
697 0349. Open admittance at
10am, 12pm, 2:30pm & 4:30pm
Fri–Wed. & 9 8 English
(book in advance: (495) 697
4115). = State Diamond
Fund: Tel (495) 621 8620.
Open 10am–1pm & 2–5pm Fri–
Wed. & 8 English. =
Transport
q Alexandrovskiy sad, Biblioteka
imeni Lenina, Borovitskaya.

. Catherine the Great’s

Coronation Dress
Among the richly decorated clothes from
the royal court is an ornate brocade gown
embroidered with double-headed eagles
in gold thread. It was made in 1762 for
8 Catherine the Great’s coronation.

7
State Diamond Fund entrance

Diamond Throne
Made in Persia in 1659, this
throne was presented to
Tsar Alexis (see p21) by an
Armenian trading company.
It is encrusted with 900
diamonds and turquoises
Harnesses and other and is the most valuable
equipment, originally throne in the collection.
produced for the Office
of the Royal Stables,
are on show here.
Key
Russian gold and silver
Arms and armour
Gallery Guide
Works by European
Tickets for the State Armoury are sold at the Kremlin’s main craftsmen
ticket office near Trinity Tower. If visiting in conjunction with Russian dress and fabrics
other sights in the Kremlin, continue through the Trinity Tower.
Carriages and harnesses
If only visiting the State Armoury, entry is via the Borovitskaya
Tower. The State Diamond Fund, a separate museum, is also State regalia
housed in this building. Non-exhibition space
68  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

e Saviour’s Tower
Спасская башня
Spasskaya bashnya
The Kremlin. Map 7 B1.
Rising majestically above Red
Square to a height of 70 m (230
ft), Saviour’s Tower is named
after an icon of Christ installed
over its gate in 1648. The gate is
no longer open to the public,
but it used to be the Kremlin’s
main entrance. Every person
Saviour’s Tower, once the main entrance
to the Kremlin
using Saviour’s Gate, even the
tsar, had to indicate respect
for the icon by taking his hat
off. The icon was removed after
the Revolution.
Saviour’s Tower was built in
two stages. The lower part was
designed by Italian architect
Pietro Solario in 1491. Bazhen
Ogurtsov and Englishman
Christopher Galloway added
the upper part and tent roof
in 1625. Originally the chimes
of the clock played the
Preobrazhenskyy March and
Kol’ Slaven Nash Gospod’ v
Sione. Now they play the
Russian National Anthem.
rPresidential
Administration
Администрация
Президента
Administraya Presidenta
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
Closed to public.
Two important religious
institutions, the Monastery of
the Miracles and the Convent of
the Ascension, used to stand
here. They were demolished in
1929 to make way for the
Presidential Administration. The
building was originally used as
a training school for Red Army
officers, and later as the
headquarters of the Presidium
of the Supreme Soviet, an
executive arm of the Soviet
parliament. Today it is home
to part of the Russian
presidential administration.
The Presidential Administration
t Senate
Сeнaт
Senat
Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
Closed to public.
Completed in 1790, this
Neo-Classical building was
constructed to house several
of the Senate’s departments.
Designed by Matvey Kazakov (see
pp46–7), who regarded it as his
best work, it is triangular, with a

Kremlin Towers
There are 19 towers in the walls of the Kremlin, with a bridge leading from the Trinity Tower
to a 20th, the Kutafya Tower. In 1935 the double-headed imperial eagles were removed from
the five tallest towers and replaced 2 years later with stars made of red glass, each weighing
between 1 and 1.5 tonnes. Corner Arsenal Tower
Borovitskaya Annunciation Tower Trinity Tower (see p58) Middle Arsenal St Nicholas Tower is the
Tower Tower (hidden) tower through which
Armoury Tower Commandant’s Tower Minin and Pozharskiy (see
p111) stormed the Kremlin.

Senate Tower

Water
Tower

The Secret
Tower has an
underground Saviour’s
passage leading Tower
to the river. It
was used to Tsar’s Tower
obtain water
during sieges. Tocsin Tower
Constantine and
First Nameless Tower Peter’s Helena Tower 0 metres 100

Second Nameless Tower Tower Beklemishevskaya Tower 0 yards 100


The Neo-Classical Senate building, with St Nicholas Tower in the background
central, domed rotunda, from
which the Russian flag flies.
From 1918 to 1991, the
Senate housed the Soviet
government. Lenin had his
office here and his family
lived in a flat on the top floor.
During World War II the Red
Army Supreme Command,
headed by Stalin, was based
in the building.
Today the Senate is the
official seat of the president
of the Russian Federation.
Corner Arsenal Tower with the Arsenal and
St Nicholas Tower
y Arsenal
Арсенал
Arsenal
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1. Closed to
public.
Peter the Great ordered the
Arsenal to be built in 1701, but
various setbacks, including a fire
in 1711, delayed its completion
until 1736. In 1812 the building
was partly blown up by
Napoleon’s army (see pp25–7).
Architects Aleksandr Bakarev,
Ivan Tamanskiy, Ivan
Mironovskiy and Evgraf Tyurin
were commissioned to design
a new Arsenal. Their attractive
yellow and white Neo-Classical
building was finished in 1828.
The Arsenal was constructed
as a storehouse for weapons,
ammunition and other military
supplies. Around 750 cannons,
including some that were
captured from Napoleon’s
retreating troops, are lined up
outside. Now the command
post of the Kremlin guard, the
interior and much of the exte-
rior of the Arsenal are strictly
out of bounds to visitors.
u Alexander
Gardens
Александровский сад
Aleksandrovskiy sad
The Kremlin. Map 7 A1.
Designed by architect Osip
Bove (see p47) in 1821,
these gardens are named after
Tsar Alexander I, who presided
over the restoration of the city,
including the Kremlin, after the
Napoleonic Wars. Before the
gardens were built, the
Neglinnaya river, part of the
Kremlin moat, was channelled
underground. The only visible
reminder of its presence is
the stone bridge linking the
Kutafya and Trinity towers.
In front of the Middle Arsenal
Tower in the northern half of the
THE KREMLIN  69
gardens is an obelisk erected in
1913 to mark 300 years of the
Romanov dynasty. The imperial
eagle was taken down after the
Revolution and the inscription
was replaced by the names of
revolutionary thinkers, such as
Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.
The Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier, a short distance away,
was unveiled in 1967. Its eternal
flame was lit with a torch
from the flame at the Field of
Mars in St Petersburg. It burns
for all the Russians who died
in World War II. The body of a
soldier is buried beneath the
monument, which bears an
inscription, “Your name is
unknown, your deeds immortal”.
In 1996, a huge shopping
complex was constructed
beneath Manezhnaya
ploshchad, the large square to
the north of Alexander Gardens.
Path through Alexander Gardens, with the
Trinity Tower behind
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  71

ARBATSKAYA
The name “Arbat” is thought to derive from a artists, attracted by the area’s rambling
Mongol word meaning suburb, and was first backstreets, dilapidated cottages and
applied in the 15th century to the entire area overgrown courtyards. In the Old Arbat, with
west of the Kremlin, then inhabited by the its pedestrianized main street, there are
tsar’s artisans and equerries. Though still historic churches, timber houses and early
commemorated in street names, the artisans 19th-century mansions around pereulok
moved elsewhere in the late 18th century. The Sivtsev Vrazhek. Yet, not far away are the
aristocracy moved in and were followed by kiosks, cafés and huge Soviet-era apartment
Moscow’s professionals, intellectuals and blocks and shops of the New Arbat.

Sights at a Glance
Restaurants see p186
Museums and Galleries Streets and Squares
1 Baba Marta
1 Skryabin House-Museum 2 Spasopeskovskiy
2 Barashka
4 Pushkin House-Museum Pereulok
3 Bar Strelka
5 Bely House-Museum 6 Ulitsa Prechistenka
4 Chocolate
8 Gallery of 19th- and 20th-Century w Arbat Square
5 Elardzhi
European and American Art
6 Korchma Taras Bulba
9 Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
7 Obraz Zhizny
pp80–83
8 Shchisliva
0 Department of Private Collections
9 Twenty-Two
e Lermontov House-Museum
10 Vostochnaya Komnata
r Shalyapin House-Museum
11 White Rabbit
Cathedrals 12 Zhurfak
7 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 13 Zu Café
Historic Buildings
See also Street Finder
3 Melnikov House
q Pashkov House PO map 6
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The monumental Foreign Ministry building, one of the Seven Sisters skyscrapers built by Stalin For keys to symbols see back flap
72  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Old Arbat Spaso House is a

grand Neo-Classical
mansion. It has been
At the heart of the Old Arbat is the pedestrianized ulitsa Arbat. It is lined
the residence of the US
with antique shops, boutiques, book stalls, pavement cafés and a variety of ambassador since 1933.
restaurants, from pizzerias and hamburger joints to lively examples of the
traditional Russian pub (traktir). In the 19th century, the Old Arbat was the
haunt of artists, musicians, poets, writers and intellectuals. Some of their
homes have been preserved and opened as museums, and are among the
district’s many houses of that era that have been lovingly restored and
painted in pastel shades of blue, green and ochre. Today, pavement artists,
buskers and street poets give it a renewed bohemian atmosphere.

This small garden

contains a statue of the
poet Alexander Pushkin.

Novyy DY
BO

SP
Arbat O

AS
SL
Y

OP
NO
EN

ES
4. Pushkin House-Museum M

KO
KA
The poet Alexander Pushkin K

VS
LO
lived here just after his marriage EU

KIY
R
in 1831. The interior of the PE

PE
house has been carefully K
LO

RE
EU

UL
renovated. R
PE

OK
IY
SK
AD

N IT
S M O L E N S K AYA P L O S H C H

R MA
KA

Ulitsa Arbat
By the time of the Soviet era, ulitsa
Arbat had lost most of its 19th-century Smolenskaya
DE ERE

character. It was pedestrianized in 1985,

P
NE UL

however, and its lively shops, restaurants

ZH OK

and cafés are now popular with

Muscovites and visitors to the city alike.
NY
Y

5 Bely House-Museum
Andrei Bely, best known
for two works, a novel,
Petersburg, and his memoirs,
lived in this flat for the first Georgian
26 years of his life. It is now a Centre
museum and the exhibits on
display include this photo of
Bely with his wife and the The Foreign Ministry is one of
fascinating illustration, Moscow’s seven Stalinist-Gothic
Line of Life (see p75) skyscrapers (see p47).
 A R B AT S K AYA  73

1. Skryabin House-
Museum T VERSKAYA

This comfortable
apartment has been
preserved as it was
ARBATSKAYA
in 1912–15 when
experimental composer
Aleksandr Skryabin
lived here. The furniture
in the rooms is Style
Moderne and the Locator Map
lighting is dim, since See Street Finder map 6
Skryabin disliked
direct light.
The Vakhtangova Theatre was
established here in 1921 by Yevgeniy
BO

Vakhtangov, one of Moscow’s

LS
HO

leading theatre directors. The current

theatre building dates from 1947.
YN
IK
OL
OP
ES

These pre-Revolution apartments,

KO

designed for wealthy Muscovites,

VS

are decorated with fanciful turrets

KIY

Arbat Square
and sculptures of knights.
PE
RE
UL
OK

2 Spasopeskovskiy
Pereulok
On one side of this
T peaceful lane is the
BA
AR 18th-century Church
SA of the Saviour on the
IT
UL
KAL

Sands, with its white

bell tower. It overlooks
OSH

a secluded square and

IN

garden, a reminder that

the Arbat was at that
PER

time a genteel suburb.

EUL
OK
PLO

Pushkin Museum The Herzen House-Museum

TNI

of Fine Arts was the home of the radical

KOV

writer Aleksandr Herzen for

three years from 1843.
PEREU
LOK

0 metres 100

0 yards 100

3 Melnikov House
This unusual cylindrical
house is now dwarfed by
the apartments on ulitsa
Arbat. It was built in the 1920s
Key
by Constructivist architect
Konstantin Melnikov, who lived Suggested route
here until his death in 1974.
For keys to symbols see back flap
74  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
1 Skryabin House-
Museum
Дом-музей АН Скрябина
Dom-muzey AN Skryabina
Bolshoy Nikolopeskovskiy
pereulok 11. Map 6 D1. Tel (499) 241
1901. q Smolenskaya, Arbatskaya.
Open 11am–6pm Wed & Fri–Sun,
1–9pm Thu. Closed last Fri of
month. &
The apartment where the
pianist and composer Aleksandr
Skryabin (1872–1915) died, at
the age of 43, has been
preserved as it was when he
lived there. Skryabin studied at
the Moscow Conservatory
(see p96), where he established
an international reputation as a
concert pianist. He was also a
highly original composer and
musical theorist, best known for
his orchestral works such as
Prometheus and A Poem of
Ecstasy. Skryabin’s music had a
great influence on the young
Igor Stravinsky (1882–1971),
and leading composer Sergei
Rachmaninov (1873–1943) was
a regular visitor.
Although Skryabin spent
much of his time abroad giving
concerts, he was an aesthete
and paid considerable attention
to furnishing and decorating
his fashionable apartment. The
lofty rooms house his pianos,
autographed manuscripts
and Style-Moderne furniture.
However, the most original item
A room in Aleksandr Skryabin’s apartment,
with one of his pianos
The Classical-style Spaso House on Spasopeskovskaya ploshchad
on show is a device for
projecting flickering light.
Regular concerts are held in
the rooms on the ground floor.
2 Spasopeskovskiy
Pereulok
Спасопесковский переулок was designed by Konstantin
Spasopeskovskiy pereulok
Map 6 D1. q Smolenskaya.
The charms of the Old Arbat
have been preserved in this
secluded lane and the peaceful
adjoining square, Spasopeskov-
skaya ploshchad. In 1878,
Vasiliy Polenov
painted A Moscow
Courtyard, depicting
Spasopeskovskaya
ploshchad as a bucolic
haven in the midst of
the city. Today the
square still provides a
respite from the hustle
and bustle prevailing
elsewhere. Viktor Melnikov’s studio in also to have been
At the centre of the Melnikov House
Polenov’s picture,
now in the Tretyakov Gallery
(see pp120–23), is the white bell
tower of the Church of the
Saviour on the Sands (Tserkov
Spas na Peskakh) from which
the lane gets its name. This
18th-century church still
dominates the square. In front
of it is a small garden dedicated or ignored. However, he did
to the poet Alexander Pushkin.
The handsome Classical-style
mansion standing on the far
side of the square was built
in 1913 as a private residence.
Known as Spaso House, it
has been the home of the
US ambassador since 1933.
3 Melnikov House
Дом Мельникова
Dom Melnikova
Krivoarbatskiy pereulok 10. Map 6 D1.
q Smolenskaya. Closed to public.
This unique house, almost
hidden by office blocks,
Melnikov (1890–1974), one of
Russia’s greatest Constructivist
architects (see p47), in 1927.
Made from brick overlaid
with white stucco, the house
consists of two interlocking
cylinders. These are studded
with rows of hexagonal
windows, creating a curious
honeycomb effect.
A spiral staircase
rises through the
space where the
cylinders overlap,
linking the light,
airy living spaces.
Melnikov’s house
was built for his
family, but it was
a prototype for
future housing
developments. However,
his career was blighted when
Stalin encouraged architects
to adopt a new monumental
style (see p47). Although he
had won the Gold Medal at
the Paris World’s Fair in 1925,
Melnikov’s work was ridiculed
remain in his house for the
rest of his life, one of the
very few residents of central
Moscow allowed to live in a
privately built dwelling.
Melnikov’s son, Viktor
Melnikov, had a studio in the
house until his death in 2006.
 A R B AT S K AYA  75

Pushkin holds a special place

Alexander Pushkin in Russians’ hearts and they
Born in 1799 into Russia’s aristocracy, treat his work and memory
Alexander Pushkin is Russia’s most with reverence.
famous poet. He had established
a reputation as both a poet and a
rebel by the time he was 20. In 1820, 5 Bely House-
he was sent into exile because the Museum
Tsarist government did not approve
Музей-квартира
of his liberal verse, but eventually
he was set free. Андрея Белого
Pushkin’s early work consisted of Muzey-kvartira Andreya Belovo
narrative poems such as The Robber Ulitsa Arbat 55. Map 6 D2. Tel (499)
Brothers (1821), and his most famous 241 7702. q Smolenskaya.
work is Eugene Onegin (1823–30), a novel in verse. From 1830 Pushkin Open 10am–6pm Wed & Fri–Sun,
wrote mostly prose. He developed a unique style in pieces such as noon–9pm Thu. Closed last Fri of
The Queen of Spades (1834) and is credited with giving Russian month. & 8 book in advance.
literature its own identity.
In the adjoining building to
the Pushkin House-Museum
4 Pushkin House- d’Anthès to a duel. Mortally is the childhood home of the
Museum wounded in the contest, symbolist writer Andrei Bely.
Mузей-квартира АС Pushkin died 2 days later. Born Boris Bugaev in 1880,
Пушкина The fascinating exhibition Bely later adopted the name
located in the museum’s by which he is known as a
Muzey-kvartira AS Pushkina
ground floor rooms gives an writer. He grew up here
Ulitsa Arbat 53. Map 6 D2.Tel (499) idea of what the city before becoming
241 9293. q Smolenskaya. Open would have been a student at
10am–6pm Wed & Fri–Sun, noon– like in the period Moscow University
9pm Thu. Closed last Fri of month. when Pushkin was (see p96), where he
& 9 English (book in advance).
growing up, before began to write
the great fire of verse. He is best
Alexander Pushkin rented this 1812. Among the known, however,
elegant, Empire-style apartment prints, lithographs for Petersburg, a
for the first 3 months of his and watercolours novel completed
marriage to society beauty are some unusual in 1916.
Natalya Goncharova. They were wax figures of a Only two
married in the Church of the serf orchestra that rooms have
Great Ascension on Bolshaya belonged to the been preserved.
Nikitskaya ulitsa (see p95) in Goncharova family. A portrait of Pushkin’s wife, A photographic
February 1831, when she was Pushkin and Natalya Goncharova exhibition on
18 years old. Pushkin wrote to Natalya lived on the Bely’s life and work
his friend Pyotr Pletnev: “I am first floor. There are disap- is housed in one room. The
married – and happy. My only pointingly few personal poss- most interesting item in the
wish is that nothing in my life essions here, although the museum is the Line of Life,
should change; I couldn’t poet’s writing bureau and some an illustration by Bely to
possibly expect anything better.” family portraits are displayed. show how his mood swings
However, by May 1831 The atmosphere resembles a combined with cultural influ-
Pushkin had tired of life shrine more than a museum. ences to direct his work.
in Moscow, and the
couple moved to
St Petersburg, where
sadly a tragic fate
awaited him. Gossip
began to circulate there
that Pushkin’s brother-
in-law, a French officer
called d’Anthès, was
making advances to
Natalya. Upon receiving
letters informing him
that he was now the
“Grand Master to the
Order of Cuckolds”,
Pushkin challenged The Line of Life illustration drawn by the symbolist writer Andrei Bely
76  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
Stone eagles among the ornate decoration on No. 20 ulitsa Prechistenka
6 Ulitsa
Prechistenka
Улица Пречистенка
Ulitsa Prechistenka
Map 6 D3–E2. q Kropotkinskaya.
Moscow’s Aristocracy first
settled in this street in
the late 18th century and
their elegant mansions still
line it today. In Soviet times
it was known as Kropotkinskaya
ulitsa, after Prince Pyotr
Kropotkin, a famous
anarchist.
The Empire-
style house at
No.12 ulitsa
Prechistenka is now Lion at No. 16 ulitsa
the Pushkin Literary Prechistenka
Museum (not to be
confused with the Pushkin
House-Museum, see p75). The
house was originally designed
for the Khrushchev family (no
connection with Nikita
Khrushchev) by Afanasiy
Grigorev (see p47), one of the
leading exponents of this style
in Moscow. The building has a
wooden frame, skilfully hidden
by Classical columns and ornate 7 Cathedral of
stucco decoration.
Across the street is the Tolstoy Храм Христа Спасителя
Literary Museum which, unlike
the Tolstoy House-Museum
(see p136), concentrates on the
man’s work rather than his life.
It was built in 1822, also to a
design by Afanasiy Grigorev,
for the noble Lopukhin family.
At No. 20 is an elegant two-
storey mansion decorated with
eagles, urns, heraldic symbols
and scallop shells. Until 1861 it
was home to General Aleksey
Yermolov, a commander-in-
chief in the Russian army. After
the Revolution, the American
dancer Isadora Duncan and the
poet Sergey Yesenin lived here
during their brief, tempestuous
marriage. The two spoke no
common language, and Yesenin
stated his feelings by writing
the Russian for “I love you” in
lipstick on the bedroom mirror.
The most distinguished
house is at No. 19.
Rebuilt after the 1812
fire (see p26) for the
Dolgorukov family,
it has an ochre
and white façade.
The gallery
within exhibits work
by controversial artist
Zurab Tsereteli,
designer of the infamous Peter
the Great statue on the banks
of the Moscow river (see p24).
Adjoining it, at No. 21, is
another early 19th-century
mansion, now the Academy
of Arts, where exhibitions
are sometimes put on.
Christ the Saviour
Khram Khrista Spasitelya
Ulitsa Volkhonka 15. Map 6 F2.
q Kropotkinskaya.
Rebuilding this cathedral,
blown up on Stalin’s orders
in 1931, was the most ambitious
of the construction projects
undertaken by the enterprising
mayor of Moscow, Yuriy
Luzhkov. The basic structure
of the new cathedral was built
between 1994 and 1997. For
much of the intervening time,
the site was occupied by an
outdoor swimming pool, but
this was eventually filled in.
The project courted con-
troversy from the start, both
on grounds of taste and cost.
In 1995 a presidential decree
declared that not a kopek
of public money should be
spent on it – funds were to
be raised through donations
from the public, the Russian
Church and foreign donors
among the big multinational
companies operating in Russia.
However, in practice, the better
part of the total bill of over
US$200 million came from the
state budget, which raised
objections at a time when
Muscovites were suffering
extreme poverty.
The original cathedral was
built to commemorate the
miraculous deliverance of
Moscow from Napoleon’s
Grande Armée (see pp25–6).
Begun in 1839, but not
completed until 1883, it
was designed by Konstantin Ton
(see p47). The cathedral was the
tallest building in Moscow at
that time, the gilded dome rising
to a height of 103 m (338 ft) and
dominating the skyline for miles
around. It could accommodate
more than 10,000 worshippers.
Boris Yeltsin lay in state here
after his death in 2007, and in
1998, a small museum and a
church on the ground floor
opened to the public. There
are spectacular views of the
city from the dome.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, rebuilt in
the 1990s at huge cost

Paul Cézanne’s Mont Ste Victoire, painted in 1905
8 Gallery of 19th-
and 20th-Century
European and
American Art
Музей Галерея искусства
стран Европы и Америки
XIX–ХХ веков
Galeryeya Iskusstva Stran Evropi I
Ameriki X1X–XX Vekov
Ulitsa Volkhonka 14. Map 6 F2.
Tel (495) 697 1546. Open 10am–7pm
Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu). q
Kropotkinskaya. & 9 7 ^ - =
Before the revolution the
Knyazhiy Dvor hotel, whose
guests included Maxim Gorky
and artist Ilya Repin, occupied
this building. Now it is a mus-
eum displaying Impressionist
and Post-Impressionist paint-
ings that were previously shown
in the Pushkin State Museum of
Fine Arts next door. Some of the
paintings are also from the St
Petersburg’s Hermitage.
Many were displayed in a
Soviet-era museum of Western
art that was opened in 1918
under orders from Lenin. The
museum was closed in 1948
by Stalin, who considered the
works “bourgeois propaganda”.
The first of the gallery’s three
floors displays mainly European
oil paintings from the first half
of the 19th century, with works
by artists such as Alexandre-
Gabriel Decamps.
The real masterpieces are
on the remaining two floors,
however. Here, there are a
A R B AT S K AYA  77
9 Pushkin State
Museum of
Fine Arts
See pp80–83.
0 Department
of Private
Collections
Oтдел личных коллекций
Otdel lichnykh kollektsiy
Ulitsa Volkhonka 10. Map 6 F2.
Tel (495) 697 1610. Open 10am–
7pm Wed–Sun (to 9pm Thu).
q Kropotkinskaya. & 7 ^ -
= ∑ artprivatecollections.ru
This museum is based on
private collections donated
number of paintings by Vincent to the Pushkin State Museum.
Van Gogh, including The Red The largest is that of historian
Vineyard at Arles (1888) and and public figure Ilya Zilberstein,
Prisoners Exercising (1890), as which includes a vast range
well as Pierre Auguste Renoir’s of work by prominent Russian
Nude (1876) and Bathing on artists such as Ivan Shishkin,
the Seine (1879). The same Ilya Repin and Konstantin
floor also holds Paul Cézanne’s Somov. There are also works
Mont Ste Victoire (1905) and by Aleksandr Rodchenko,
a series of paintings by Paul and rooms devoted to
Gauguin, including a fine periodic specialist exhibitions.
selection from the artist’s
Polynesian period.
The third floor is just as
impressive, and contains a
number of works by Henri
Matisse, including Goldfish
(1911–12), and Pablo Picasso’s
Girl Standing on a Ball (1905).
Russia is also represented,
with paintings by Wassily
Kandinsky, including Gallery of 19th- and 20th-Century
Improvisation No. 20a (1911). European and American Art
Stalin’s Plan for a Palace of Soviets
The original Cathedral of Christ the
Redeemer was to have been replaced by
a Palace of Soviets – a soaring tower, 315 m
(1,034 ft) high, topped by a 100-m (328-ft)
statue of Lenin. It was designed as the
highlight of Stalin’s reconstruction of
Moscow, much of the rest of which was
realized: broad boulevards, skyscrapers
and the metro system (see pp40–43) are
now familiar features of the city. The
result was also, however, the destruction
of many supposedly unnecessary
buildings, especially churches and
monasteries, even inside the Kremlin.
The scheme for the Palace of Soviets Artist’s impression of
was eventually abandoned and the Stalin’s proposed awe-
cathedral was rebuilt in the 1990s. inspiring Palace of Soviets
Detail of sculptures on the façade of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
80  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

9 Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts

Музей изобразительных искусств имени АС Пушкина
Muzey izobrazitelnykb iskusstv imeni AS Pushkina
Founded in 1898, the Pushkin Museum houses a fine 28
collections of works from antiquity to the early 19th
century. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union 29
(see pp32–3), the curators admitted that they had 27
countless works of art hidden away. Some of these
are now on show, including Schliemann’s
“Treasures of Troy” excavations, which 16
30
were taken from the Museum of Ancient 26
History in Berlin by Soviet military 16
a
authorities in 1945. The museum
remains open while undergoing a
major renovation programme. There 25
are plans to open new galleries and
an exhibition hall by 2018. 24

Room 23
19
houses mostly
18th–19th-
century French
paintings. 23 21

Museum Building 22
The design of the
building borrows from Stairs to
Ancient Greece, Italy, ground floor
France and Germany
to create a suitably
impressive façade
5
and interior.

First floor 4

. Annunciation
Painted around 1495–8 by Italian Room 3 houses
artist Sandro Botticelli, this work Schliemann’s
was originally part of a large “Treasures of Troy”.
altarpiece. It shows the angel
Gabriel telling the Virgin Mary
she is to bear the Son of God.
Key
Collection of plaster casts
Gallery Guide Art of ancient civilizations
The ticket office is in the entrance hall. The displays are spread Byzantine art and Italian art:
over two floors, but although the museum halls are numbered, 13th–16th centuries
the layout is not strictly chronological. The ground floor houses German, Dutch and Flemish art:
all of the works from ancient civilizations as well as Byzantine 15th–17th centuries
art and Italian, Dutch and Flemish art from the 13th to the Spanish and Italian art: 17th–
18th centuries
17th centuries. Spanish, Italian and French art from the 17th
to the early 19th centuries is upstairs. The cloakroom and French art: 17th–early 19th centuries
toilets are in the basement. Temporary exhibition space
 A R B AT S K AYA  81

Bucentaur’s Return
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to the Pier by the
Palazzo Ducale
Practical Information
Canaletto was known
Ulitsa Volkhonka 12. Map 6 F2.
for his bold use of
Tel (495) 697 9578. Open 10am–
colour, exemplified in
7pm Tue–Sun (until 9pm Thu).
this scene of the Grand
& - = 9 English.
Canal (1727–9).
∑ arts-museum.ru

Transport
q Kropotkinskaya.

17

Room 10 is dedicated to
Rembrandt and his School and
18 includes drawings, etchings and
six paintings by the great master.

20 Ahasuerus, Haman and Esther

In this biblical scene by Rembrandt (1660),
the Persian king, Ahasuerus, is flanked by
his Jewish wife and his minister, Haman.
11 Esther, lit by a single ray of light, accuses
Haman of plotting to destroy the Jews.
Stairs to first floor
10

7
9

15
8
6

14 . Bacchanalia
Based on the myth of the god of
2 nature, vegetation and viniculture,
Dionysus-Bacchus, this splendidly
1 exuberant, sensual painting (c.1615)
did not leave the possession of its
Tickets and artist, Peter Paul Rubens, his entire life.
information

Entrance

Ground . Fayoum Portrait

floor Painted in the 1st century AD, this is one
of a collection of portraits discovered at a
burial ground at the Fayoum oasis in Egypt
in the 1870s. They were painted while the
subjects were alive to be used as death masks.
82  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Pushkin State the 14th century and Simone

Martini was a leading master
Museum of Fine Arts of the Sienese school. His
naturalistic images of St
In addition to the collection of plaster casts, the accumulated Augustine and Mary
treasures of original work in the Pushkin State Museum of Magdalene, painted in the
Fine Arts reflect the tastes of many private collectors, whose 1320s, are among the exhibits.
holdings were given to the museum. The largest of these There are also a number of
later religious pieces on show,
belonged to the Egyptologist Vladimir Golenishchev who
including a triptych by Pietro
assembled some 6,000 items during his travels in Egypt. The di Giovanni Lianori. Two
museum also contains many important pieces of European outstanding old masters painted
art from the 13th to the early 19th centuries, including work in the 1490s are also displayed
by Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Botticelli, Poussin and here: the superb Annunciation,
Canaletto, among many others. painted by Sandro Botticelli,
and the Madonna and Child
by Pietro Perugino.

German, Dutch and

Greek marble sarcophagus, dating from around AD 210
Collection of Plaster
Casts
The huge collection of plaster
casts fills ten rooms and offers
a fine backdrop to the original
works. Room 14, The Greek
Courtyard, is devoted to Greek
architecture and sculpture
from the 4th and 5th centuries
and includes a scale model of
the Acropolis and Parthenon.
Room 15 reproduces the
inner courtyard of the
14th-century palazzo de
Podesta in Florence. On the
first floor the collection
continues with the art of
ancient Greece and Rome,
and Renaissance sculpture
from Italy, the Netherlands
and Germany. Room 29 is
devoted entirely to the work
of Michelangelo.
Art of Ancient
Civilizations
The museum’s archaeological
exhibits come from as far afield
as ancient Mesopotamia,
Hindustan and the Mayan
Empire. The display includes the
renowned and remarkably vivid
tomb portraits from Fayoum
and two exquisite ebony
Flemish Art: 15th–
17th Centuries
The museum is particularly well
endowed with German, Dutch
and Flemish Renaissance art.
Room 8 includes Pieter Breughel
the Younger’s Winter Landscape
with Bird Trap (1620s) – a copy
figurines of the high priest of a similar painting by his father,
Amen-Hotep and his wife, Breughel the Elder – and a
the priestess Re-nai. strong collection by the Saxon
Another highlight is the court painter, Lucas Cranach
fabulous Treasure of Troy the Elder. His Virgin and Child
display, with gold artifacts (c.1520), painted on wood,
excavated from the legendary places the Virgin and Child
city in the 1870s. There is also in the context of a typical
an assortment of items from German landscape.
ancient Greece and Rome. Rooms 9 and 11 are equally
rich with masters. They
include Anthony Van Dyck’s
Byzantine Art and Italian accomplished portraits of the
Art: 13th–16th Centuries wealthy burgher, Adriaen
Room 7 contains a
small, but memorable
collection of Byzantine
icons, including
miniature folding
icons and ivory carvings
from the 10th century.
There is also some later
work, such as the
splendidly luminous
Twelve Apostles painted
by Constantinopolitan
masters in the early
14th century.
Italian Medieval and
Renaissance art is also
represented here.
There is a series of altar
panels painted in the
Byzantine tradition by
Italian artists. Siena was A section of the Virgin and Child, painted by Lucas
a major artistic centre in Cranach the Elder in about 1525

Stevens, and his wife, Maria
Boschaert, both painted in 1629,
and some evocative landscapes
by Jan Van Goyen and Jacob
van Ruysdael. Also on show are
still lifes by Frans Snyders, some
delightful genre scenes by Jan
Steen, Pieter de Hooch and
Gabriel Metsu and several works
by Peter Paul Rubens, including
Apotheosis of the Infanta Isabella
(1634) and, in place of honour,
the characteristically flamboyant
Bacchanalia (c.1615).
Six of Rembrandt’s masterly
canvases, along with some of
his drawings and etchings, are
displayed in Room 10 of the
gallery. The paintings include
the biblical Ahasuerus, Haman
and Esther (1660), Christ Driving
the Money-Changers from the
Temple (1626) and the theatrical
The Incredulity of Thomas (1634).
However, it is perhaps the later
Portrait of an Old Woman (1654),
actually of the artist’s mother,
that demonstrates the great
skill of the artist. Here, the
shadowed, stooping figure
seems almost weighed
down by memories.
Spanish and Italian Art:
17th–18th Centuries
Room 18 of the gallery has a
modest collection of Spanish
paintings from the 17th century
and only the most important
are on display. Of note are the
lifelike religious figures by
Fransciso de Zurbarán, such as
The Infant Christ (1635–1640)
painted late in his life. However
it is another Spanish master,
Bartholomé Esteban Murillo,
known for the warmth and
emotion caught in his religious
scenes and portraits, who is
probably the best known.
Works include Girl Selling Fruit
and Archangel Raphael and
Bishop Domonte (1680).
Of the Italian works on
display here, the influence of
Caravaggio is felt, particularly in
Christ is Crowned with Thorns
(c.1610) by the relatively
unknown artist Tommaso Salini,
and the great artist’s pupil
Domenico Fetti and his follower
Bernardo Strozzi. The latter’s Old
Coquette (after 1630) shows a
grey-haired woman
sitting in front of a
mirror, while her
maids giggle in the
background. It is
a grotesque yet
poignant depiction
of the cruelty of
time. Another trend
of the era was the
academic style of
the Bologna school.
Guido Reni’s work
is exemplary. In
Adoration of the
Shepherds (c.1640)
the careful
composition and Guido Reni’s Adoration of the Shepherds (c.1640)
light colouring
made his style very popular
at the time.
In the 18th century, it was
the Venetian school that
dominated Italian painting.
In Room 17 the colourful
Betrothal of the Venetian Doge
to the Adriatic Sea (1729–30)
by Canaletto is on display.
The artist is widely considered
the master of the style of
urban landscape known
as veduta.
Hercules and Omphale, painted in the Omphale (1730s), which depicts
1730s by François Boucher
French Art: 17th–Early
19th Centuries
The Pushkin Museum is justly
famous for its collection of
French art, which includes
paintings of classical and epic
subjects by a variety of artists.
17th-century pieces are held in
Room 21 and include a good
collection by one of the greatest also on display here. Jean-
French painters of the period,
Nicolas Poussin. He was an
exponent of High Renaissance
A R B AT S K AYA  83
styles, preferring balance and
order in his work. The early
piece Victory of Joshua over the
Amorites (c.1625) shows an
almost austere pictorial manner.
Later work includes his poetic
Rinaldo and Armida (early 1630s)
and landscapes such as
Landscape with Hercules and
Cacus (1656). In the same
room is the earliest known
work by eminent Versailles
painter and art theorist, Charles
Lebrun. His Crucifixion (1637),
painted when the artist was
still a teenager, shows the
influence of Rubens. Also on
display is his portrait of the
playwright Molière, painted
much later.
Room 22 moves to the
18th century and the art of
the French Rococo period.
A leading exponent of the
style, François Boucher, is well
represented here. An early piece,
and typical of the ornamental
Rococo style, is Hercules and
the myth of Hercules, who
was sold as a slave to Queen
Omphale.
Finally, French art from the
second half of the 18th century
to the early 19th century is
housed in Room 23. At this time,
landscape became a popular
genre and there are some fine
examples by celebrated artists
of the day Claude-Joseph Vernet
and Hubert Robert. Sculpture is
Antoine Houdon’s bronzes of
Enlightenment thinker Voltaire
brought him much fame.
84  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
Arbatskaya metro station and a cinema in Arbat Square
q Pashkov House
Дом Пашкова
Dom Pashkova
Ulitsa Znamenka 6. Map 6 F1.
Closed to public. q Borovitskaya,
Biblioteka imeni Lenina.
This magnificent mansion
was once the finest private
house in Moscow and enjoys
a wonderful hilltop location
overlooking the Kremlin. It was
built in the Neo-Classical style
in 1784–8 for the fabulously
wealthy Captain Pyotr Pashkov.
Pashkov encouraged his
architect, who is thought to
have been Vasiliy Bazhenov
(see p46), to surpass himself
with the grandeur of the design.
The mansion’s height was
achieved by placing it on an
enormous stone base and the
building is surmounted by a
beautifully proportioned
rotunda. Surprisingly the most
impressive façade is to the
rear of the building, which
originally led to a garden.
In 1839, a relative of Captain
Pashkov sold the house to the
Moscow Institute for Nobles,
which occupied
the premises
The imposing Pashkov House overlooking the Kremlin
until 1861. It was then taken over
by the Rumyantsev Museum,
which moved to the capital from
St Petersburg at that time. The
museum brought with it an art
collection and a library of more
than one million volumes.
The building has been
completely renovated, and can
be hired for private events – for
$160,000 for an evening!
w Arbat Square
Арбатская площадь
Arbatskaya ploshchad
Map 6 E1. q Arbatskaya.
A chaotic mass of kiosks,
traffic and underpasses,
Arbat Square is the link
between the vividly contrasting
areas of Old and New Arbat.
The area is popular with both
Muscovites and visitors.
Beneath the square, the
underpasses contain a society
of their own. Expect to come
across an impromptu rock
concert, kittens and puppies
for sale and, in late summer,
children selling bulbous,
hand-picked mushrooms
(though buying these may
not be advisable). The bright
neon lights along the
wide avenue of Novy
Arbat are a reminder
of the street’s heyday
as Moscow’s casino
district. In 2009, the
government banned
gambling, thus
putting an end to
the lucrative gaming
industry in Moscow.
The former casinos
have since been
converted into
late-night bars,
shops, entertainment centres
and restaurants.
The small white building at
the other end of the underpass
dates from 1909, but it was
redesigned three years later by
Fyodor Shekhtel (see p47) for the
pioneering Russian film studio
boss, Aleksandr Khanzhonkov.
Now known as the Arts Cinema
(see p201), it was one of the first
cinemas to open in Moscow.
A portrait of the poet and novelist
Lermontov (1814–41) as a child
e Lermontov
House-Museum
Дом-музей МЮ
Лермонтова
Dom-muzey MYu Lermontova
Ulitsa Malaya Molchanovka 2. Map 6
D1. Tel (495) 691 5298. q Arbatskaya.
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun,
2–8pm Thu. &
Tucked away behind the tower
blocks of the New Arbat is the
modest timber house that
was once home to Mikhail
Lermontov. The great Romantic
poet and novelist lived here
with his grandmother, Yelizaveta
Arseneva, from 1829–32 while
he was a student at Moscow
University. While here, he wrote
an early draft of his narrative
poem The Demon (1839).
Lermontov was more inter-
ested in writing poetry than in
his studies and left university
without graduating. He then
became a guardsman. However,
he was exiled to the Caucasus
for a year because of the bitter
criticisms of the authorities
expressed in his poem Death of

Lermontov’s tranquil study in the Lermontov House-Museum
a Poet (1837). This poem about
the death of Pushkin (see p75)
marked a turning point in
Lermontov’s writing and is
generally agreed to be the first
of his mature works. His most
famous composition, the novel
A Hero of our Time, was written
in 1840. Lermontov died the
next year, aged only 26. Like
Pushkin, he was killed in a duel.
There are only five rooms in
the museum, but each bears
testament both to Lermontov’s
dazzling intellectual gifts and
also to his zest for life. The study discovered. He made his
on the mezzanine was his
favourite room. Here he would
play the guitar, piano and violin, and went on to sing
and even compose music.
The drawing room, which still operatic bass roles, including
contains many of its original
furnishings, was often the site
of lively dancing, singing and
masquerades. Many of
Lermontov’s manuscripts are
on display downstairs, together
with drawings and watercolours,
some by Lermontov himself.
r Shalyapin House-
Museum
Дом-музей Ф.И.
Шаляпина
Dom-muzey FI Shalyapina
Novinskiy bulvar 25. Map 1 C5.
Tel (495) 605 6236. q Smolenskaya,
Barrikadnaya. Open 11am–7pm Wed–
Sun. Closed last Thu of the month.
& 8 book in advance.
This is one of Moscow’s newer
house-museums and one of
the best. The stone bust and
inscription outside the yellow
Empire-style mansion record
that one of the greatest opera
singers of the 20th century
once lived here. The renowned
Russian bass, Fyodor
Shalyapin, occupied this
large house from 1910
until he emigrated from
Soviet Russia in 1922.
Born in Kazan in 1873,
Shalyapin began his
career in great poverty,
working as a stevedore
on the Volga before his
unique vocal talent was
international debut at
La Scala, Milan, in 1901, Stone bust of opera second floor include
singer Shalyapin amusing portraits of
a variety of the great
Don Quixote, Ivan the Terrible
and Boris Godunov.
Pictures drawn by Shalyapin’s children, on display in the sitting room
A R B AT S K AYA  85
Shalyapin died in Paris in 1938,
but his remains have since been
returned to Russia and were
reburied in the Novodevichiy
Cemetery (see p133) alongside
other famous Russians.
Shalyapin rehearsed with
renowned musicians and
composers in the concert
room, where visitors can now
listen to recordings of the
master at work. There is also
a wonderful Bechstein grand
piano, which was presented
to Shalyapin in 1913.
After performing for his
guests, the celebrated singer
would often take them next
door for a game of billiards.
He was not a very good loser
and depending on his mood,
his wife would only invite
friends with grace enough
to let him win. Items on
display in the house
include the singer’s much
treasured velvet armchair,
complete with his
favourite ashtray still
balancing on the arm.
A selection of his playing
cards are laid out on a
side table. The curious
mementoes on the
the singer in his
various operatic roles, as well
as a splendid collection of
theatrical costumes.
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  87

TVERSKAYA
At heart a commercial district, Tverskaya widened and massive new apartment
centres on the road of the same name, blocks were erected for workers. These
which originally led to St Petersburg and looming grey buildings make the street a
was the processional route used by the tsars. showcase of the monumental style of
Now Moscow’s premier shopping street, architecture (see p47) favoured by Stalin.
Tverskaya ulitsa underwent a major The area’s surprisingly tranquil backstreets
redevelopment in the 1930s during the have been home to many famous artists,
huge reconstruction of Moscow ordered by writers and actors, and, despite Stalin’s
Stalin (see p77). At that time many buildings best efforts, still have some interesting
were torn down so that the street could be pre-Revolutionary houses.

Sights at a Glance
Museums Historic Buildings Restaurants see pp186–7
9 Stanislavskiy House-Museum 1 Hotel Metropol 1 As Eat Is
t Gorky House-Museum 4 House of Unions 2 Bublik
y Chekhov House-Museum 5 Hotel National 3 Café Pushkin
o Bulgakov House-Museum q Moscow Conservatory 4 Chicago Prime Steakhouse
p Museum of Contemporary History w Moscow Old University 5 Conversation
Streets and Squares e Manège 6 Dolkabar
r House of Friendship 7 El Gaucho
2 Theatre Square
u Morozov Mansion 8 Hinkalnaya
6 Tverskaya Ulitsa
Monasteries 9 Mari Vanna
8 Bryusov Pereulok
10 Montalto
0 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa s Upper Monastery of St Peter
11 Pizza Peppe
i Patriarch’s Ponds Theatres 12 Polo Club
a Pushkin Square
3 Bolshoi Theatre pp92–3 13 Retseptor
7 Moscow Arts Theatre 14 Scandinavia
15 Ulliam’s

Mayakovskaya

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The sumptuous interior of Yeliseyevsky Food Hall, on Tverskaya ulitsa For keys to symbols see back flap
88  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Theatre Square

Moscow’s Theatreland is centred, quite appropriately, Yuriy Dolgorukiy,
around Theatre Square. Dominating the square is one Moscow’s founder (see
p19), is depicted in this
of the most famous opera and ballet stages in the world, statue. It was unveiled in
the Bolshoi Theatre. The Malyy (Small) Theatre is on 1954, 7 years after the city’s
the east side of the square, while the Russian 800th anniversary.
Academic Youth Theatre is on the west. Further
to the west is the city’s main shopping street,
Tverskaya ulitsa, and two more theatres, the
Yermolova Theatre and the Moscow Arts
Theatre. There are also several excellent
Pushkin
restaurants and bars in this lively Square LO
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neighbourhood. R EU
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once home to director

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Vsevolod Meyerhold. The

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of the Resurrection is
visible further down
the lane.

6 Tverskaya Ulitsa
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UL

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Central
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Yermolova
Theatre
Okhotnyy
Ryad
Lower Chamber
7 Moscow Arts Theatre
of the Russian
This famous theatre will always be Parliament
associated with the dramatist Anton
Chekhov (see p94). Several of his plays,
including The Cherry Orchard, were
premiered here.

Key
5 Hotel National
The National is a mix of Style Suggested route
Moderne and Classical style. Now
restored, its decor is as impressive
as it was before the Revolution,
when it was Moscow’s finest hotel.
 T V E R S K AYA  89

3 . Bolshoi Theatre
Two earlier theatres on this
site, including the first
Bolshoi, were destroyed in
T VERSKAYA
fires. The current building
was completed by Albert
Kavos in 1856.

ARBATSKAYA KREMLIN

Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 2 & 3
Petrovskiy Passage is
ULI

a fashionable shopping
TSA

arcade (see p194).

PET

0 metres 150
ROV

0 yards 150
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The Malyy Theatre is one of the oldest in

Moscow. A statue of the great 19th-century
ST N
playwright Aleksandr Ostrovskiy stands
MO in front of it (see p200).
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Small Stage
(see p92)
UL
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1 Hotel Metropol
A

Built in 1899–1905 by Englishman

Russian
William Walcot, the Metropol
Academic (see p178) is one of Moscow’s
Youth Theatre grandest hotels. This painted,
Teatralnaya (see p199) glazed ceiling is the outstanding
D
R YA feature of the main dining room.
OT NYY
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TS
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The Moskva
Red Square Hotel is being 2 Theatre Square
rebuilt. Laid out in its present
form in the 1820s, part of
Theatre Square served as
4 . House of Unions a military parade ground
In the 1780s, architect Matvey Kazakov from 1839–1911. Playbills
converted this Neo-Classical mansion around the city advertise
into a noblemen’s club. The trade performances in the
unions took it over in the Soviet era. theatres on the square.
For keys to symbols see back flap
90  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
The statue of Aleksandr Ostrovskiy in front
of the Malyy Theatre
1 Hotel Metropol
Гостиница Метрополь
Gostinitsa Metropol
Teatralnyy proezd 2. Map 3 A5.
Tel (499) 501 7800. q Teatralnaya.
See Where to Stay: p178.
The Hotel Metropol, built
by William Walcot and Lev
Kekushev in 1899–1905, is a fine
example of Style-Moderne
architecture (see p47). The
exterior walls sport a number
of ceramic panels, including
Mikhail Vrubel’s large work at
the top of the façade. Called The
Daydreaming Princess, it is based
on scenes from the play La
Princesse Lointaine, written in
1895 by Edmond Rostand,
author of Cyrano de Bergerac.
The building also has ornate
wrought-iron balconies and
a superb painted glass roof in
its Metropol Zal restaurant.
Over the years the Metropol
has welcomed guests as varied
and famous as Irish dramatist
George Bernard Shaw
and American pop star
Michael Jackson.
The façade of the Hotel Metropol, designed by William Walcot
2 Theatre Square
Театральная площадь
Teatralnaya ploshchad
Map 3 A5. q Teatralnaya, ploshchad
Revolyutsii, Okhotnyy Ryad.
This elegant square is named
after the theatres on three of
its sides. Originally this area
was marshy ground, regularly
flooded by the Neglinnaya
river. In the 1820s it was paved
over and the square was laid
out to a design by Osip Bove
(see p47). In 1839–1911 a
military parade ground occu-
pied part of the square. Today,
Theatre Square is dominated
by the Bolshoi Theatre.
On the square’s east side is
a converted private mansion
that houses the Malyy (Small)
Theatre (see p200). The Malyy
is particularly associated
with playwright Aleksandr
Ostrovskiy (1823–86), whose
satirical plays were performed
here. A sombre statue of him by
Nikolay Andreev was erected in
the forecourt in 1929.
The Russian Academic Youth
Theatre (see p199), with its
elaborate Neo-Classical porch,
stands on the square’s west
side. Originally designed by
Osip Bove (see p47), it was
almost entirely rebuilt by
Boris Freidenberg in 1882.
The theatre has occupied
this building since 1936.
To the northwest of Theatre
Square is the Operetta Theatre
(see p200). In the 1890s
the private opera
company of the wealthy
industrialist and arts patron
Savva Mamontov (1842–1914)
performed here. The careers
of opera singer Fyodor
Shalyapin (see p85), composer
Sergei Rachmaninov and
artist Vasiliy Polenov, who
designed sets and costumes,
all began here with
Mamontov’s company.
In the centre of the square
is a granite statue of Karl Marx.
Sculpted in 1961 by Leonid
Kerbel, it bears the words
“Workers of the world unite!”
3 Bolshoi Theatre
See pp92–3.
The well-proportioned Hall of Columns in
the elegant, 18th-century House of Unions
4 House of Unions
Дом Союзов
Dom Soyuzov
Bolshaya Dmitrovka ulitsa 1. Map 3
A5. Tel (495) 692 0736. Open for
performances only. q Teatralnaya,
Okhotnyy Ryad.
This green and white Neo-
Classical mansion was originally
built in the first half of the
18th century. In the early
1780s, it was bought by a
group of Moscow nobles
who commissioned architect
Matvey Kazakov (see pp46–7)
to turn it into a noblemen’s
club. Kazakov added a number
of rooms to the existing buil-
ding including the magnificent
ballroom, known as the Hall
of Columns. It was here, in
1856, that Tsar Alexander II
addressed an audience of the
Russian nobility on the need
to emancipate the serfs.
After the Revolution, trade
unions took over the building,
hence its current name.

In 1924 the hall was opened
to the public for more than
a million people to file past
Lenin’s open coffin. Many of
his closest colleagues were
later tried here during the
show trials of 1936–8 (see
p29). Stalin also lay in state
here in 1953.
Nowadays the House of
Unions is used for concerts
and public meetings.
5 Hotel National
Гостиница Националь
Gostinitsa Natsional
Mokhovaya ulitsa 15/1. Map 2 F5.
Tel (495) 258 7000. q Okhotnyy
Ryad. 7 8 See Where to
Stay: p176.
Designed in 1903 by architect
Aleksandr Ivanov, the Hotel
National is an eclectic mixture
of Style-Moderne and
Classical-style architecture
(see pp46–7). The façade is
decorated with sculpted
nymphs and ornate stone
tracery, but is topped by a
mosaic from the Soviet era.
This features factory
chimneys belching smoke,
oil derricks, electricity pylons,
railway engines and tractors.
The National’s most famous
guest was Lenin, who stayed
Lobby of the Hotel National, with Style-Moderne
windows and Classical statues
in room 107 at the hotel for
a week, in March 1918, before
he moved to the Kremlin.
The National was completely
refurbished in the early
1990s and its Style-Moderne
interiors have been faithfully
restored to their original
splendour.
6 Tverskaya Ulitsa
Тверская улица
Tverskaya ulitsa
Map 2 F5, F4, E3. q Okhotnyy
Ryad, Tverskaya, Pushkinskaya.
Tverskaya ulitsa was the
grandest thoroughfare in
Moscow in the 19th century,
when it was famous for its
restaurants, theatres, hotels
and purveyors of French
fashions. Stalin’s reconstruction
of the city in the 1930s resulted
in Tverskaya ulitsa being
widened by 42 m (138 ft)
and its name being changed
to ulitsa Gorkovo to
commemorate the writer
Maxim Gorky. Many buildings
were torn down to make way
for huge apartment blocks
to house party bureaucrats,
such as those at Nos. 9–11.
Other buildings were rebuilt
further back to stand on the
new, wider road. Now called
Tverskaya ulitsa
again, the street
carries a huge volume
of traffic. However, it is
still one of the city’s
most popular places
to eat out and shop.
At No. 7 is the
Central Telegraph
Office, a severe grey
building with an
illuminated globe
outside. It was
designed by Ilya
Rerberg in 1927.
Through the arch on
the other side of the
road is a green-tiled
building with floral
friezes and tent-roofed
turrets. Built in 1905,
this was the Moscow
mission of the
Savvinskiy Monastery.
It is now luxury
apartments and offices.
T V E R S K AYA  91
Tverskaya ulitsa, one of Moscow’s most
popular shopping streets
Further up the street is the
soulless Tverskaya square,
dominated by an equestrian
statue of Moscow’s founder,
Prince Yuriy Dolgorukiy (see
p88). On the west side of the
square looms the red and
white city hall. Designed in
1782 by Matvey Kazakov
(see pp46–7), it was the
residence of the governor-
general before the Revolution
and later became the
Moscow City Soviet or
town hall. In 1944–6 extra
storeys were added, more
than doubling its height.
Beyond Tverskaya square,
at No. 14, is Moscow’s most
famous delicatessen. Now
known by its pre-Revolutionary
name, Yeliseyevsky Food
Hall (see p194), in Soviet
times it was called Gastronom
No.1. In the 1820s this mansion
was the home of Princess
Zinaida Volkonskaya, whose
soirées were attended by
great figures of the day,
including Alexander Pushkin
(see p75). In 1898 Grigoriy
Yeliseev bought the building,
and had it lavishly redecorated
in Neo-Baroque style with
stained-glass windows, crystal
chandeliers, carved pillars,
polished wood counters and
large mirrors. The palatial food
emporium now stocks a wide
selection of imported and
Russian delicacies.
92  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

3 Bolshoi Theatre
Большой театр
Bolshoy teatr
Home to one of the oldest, and probably the most famous,
ballet companies in the world, the Bolshoi Theatre is also
one of Moscow’s major landmarks. The first Bolshoi Theatre
opened in 1780 and presented masquerades, comedies and
comic operas. It burnt down in 1805, but its successor was
completed in 1825 to a design by Osip Bove (see p47) and
Andrey Mikhaylov. This building too was destroyed by fire,
in 1853, but the essentials of its highly praised design were . Royal Box
retained in Albert Kavos’s reconstruction of 1856. A major Situated at the centre of the
refurbishment has reinstated a number of its original historic gallery, the royal box, hung
with crimson velvet, is one of
features and returned it to its former glory.
over 120 boxes. The imperial
crown on its pediment was
removed in the Soviet era but
has now been restored.

Neo-Classical Pediment
The relief on the Neo-Classical pediment
was an addition by Albert Kavos during his
reconstruction of the theatre. It depicts a pair
of angels bearing aloft the lyre of Apollo,
the Greek god of music and light.

. Apollo in the
Chariot of the Sun
This eye-catching
sculpture by Pyotr Klodt,
part of the original 1825
building, was retained by
Albert Kavos. It depicts Apollo
driving the chariot on which he
carried the sun across the sky.

Entrance

Vestibule
Patrons entering the theatre find
themselves in this grand tiled
vestibule. Magnificent staircases,
lined with white marble, lead up
from either side of the vestibule
to the spacious main foyer.
 T V E R S K AYA  93

Grand Imperial Foyer

This ornately decorated room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
was known as the Beethoven
Practical Information
Hall in the Soviet era. It is now
Teatralnaya ploshchad 1.
used for occasional exhibitions.
Map 3 A4. Tel (499) 250 7317.
The stuccoed decoration on
Open Tue–Sun, for performances.
the ceiling includes about
Closed Aug. 7 ^ in
3,000 rosettes and the walls
auditorium. 8 0
are adorned with delicately
∑ bolshoi.ru
embroidered panels
of crimson silk. Transport
q Teatralnaya. v 2, 12.
@ 12.

Apollo and the Muses

The ten painted panels
decorating the auditorium’s
ceiling are by Pyotr Titov.
They depict Apollo dancing
with the nine muses of
Greek myth, each of which
is connected with a different
branch of the arts or sciences.

KEY

The Bolshoi Ballet in the Soviet Era
1 Eight-columned portico
2 The auditorium has six tiers
and a seating capacity of 1,600.
When Kavos rebuilt it he modified
its shape to improve the acoustics.
3 Main stage

In the 1920s and 1930s new ballets conforming
to Revolutionary ideals were created for the
Bolshoi, but the company’s heyday was in the
1950s and 1960s. Ballets such as Spartacus were
produced and the dancers toured abroad for
the first time to widespread acclaim. Yet a
number of dancers also defected to the West
in this period, in protest at the company’s harsh
management and a lack of artistic freedom.
A production of Spartacus (1954), by Aram
Khachaturian, at the Bolshoi
4 The backstage area provides
jobs for over 700 workers, including
craftsmen and women making
ballet shoes, costumes and
stage props.
5 Artists’ dressing room
6 The exhibition foyer extends
around the whole of the front of
the building on the first floor. It
hosts temporary exhibitions that
are open during performances.
94  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
The single-domed Church of the Resurrection, built in 1629 on Bryusov Pereulok
7 Moscow Arts
Theatre
МХАТ имени АП Чехова
MKhAT imeni AP Chekhova
Kamergerskiy pereulok 3. Map 2 F5.
Tel (495) 629 8760/6748.
q Teatralnaya, Okhotnyy Ryad.
Open performances only.
See Entertainment: p200.
The first ever performance
at the Moscow Arts Theatre
(MKhAT) took place in 1898.
This venue was founded by
a group of young theatre
enthusiasts, led by the
directors Konstantin
Stanislavskiy and Vladimir
Nemirovich-Danchenko.
The Moscow Arts Theatre entrance with The
Wave bas-relief above
The MKhAT company had
an early success with their
production of Anton Chekhov’s Bruces, a Scottish family
play The Seagull in the theatre’s who were involved with
first year. When the play had
been performed 3 years
earlier in St Petersburg, it
had been a disastrous flop;
however, performed in
Moscow using Stanislavskiy’s
new Method acting, it was
extremely well received.
In 1902 architect Fyodor
Shekhtel (see p47)
completely
reconstructed
the interior of
the theatre,
adding innova-
tions such as a
central lighting
box and a Stylized seagull on the exterior of the Mayakovsky’s
revolving stage.
The auditorium
had very little decoration,
so that audiences were
forced to focus on the
stage and concentrate
on the performance.
The theatre continued to
flourish after the 1917
Revolution, despite its
repertoire being restricted
by state censorship. Most
of the plays produced were
written by Maxim Gorky,
whose work was in favour
with the government. The
frustrations and compromises
of the period were brilliantly
satirized in the 1930s by
Mikhail Bulgakov (who also
worked as an assistant
director in the theatre) in
his novel Teatralnyy Roman.
These problems continued
and in the 1980s part of the
company moved to the Gorky
Arts Theatre on Tverskoy bulvar.
Today a variety of productions
are staged at the Moscow Arts
Theatre, including many of
Anton Chekhov’s plays.
8 Bryusov Pereulok
Брюсов переулок
Bryusov pereulok
Map 2 F5. q Okhotnyy Ryad,
Arbatskaya.
A granite arch spanning
Tverskaya ulitsa marks the
entrance to this quiet side
street. It is named after the
the Russian court.
In the 1920s new apart-
ments here were assigned
to the staff of the Moscow
state theatres. No. 17, for
example, was the home of
two actors from the Moscow
Arts Theatre, Vasiliy Kachalov
and Ivan Moskvin.
No. 12 was home to the
avant-garde
director
Vsevolod
Meyerhold,
who directed
premieres
of Vladimir
Moscow Arts Theatre satires.
Meyerhold
lived here from 1928 until
his arrest in 1939 at the height
of Stalin’s Great Purge (see p29).
The Composers’ Union was
housed at Nos. 8–10. It was
here that composers Sergey
Prokofiev and Dmitriy
Shostakovich were forced
to read an apology for works
that deviated from Socialist
Realism (see p137).
About halfway along
Bryusov pereulok is the
17th-century single-domed
Church of the Resurrection.
This was one of the few
churches to remain open
during the Soviet era.

9 Stanislavskiy
House-Museum
Дом-музей КС
Станиславского
Dom-muzey KS Stanislavskovo
Leontevskiy pereulok 6. Map 2 E5.
Tel (495) 629 2442. q Arbatskaya,
Tverskaya. Open noon–7pm Wed &
Fri, 11am–6pm Thu, Sat & Sun.
Closed last Thu of month. & ^ 8
This 18th-century mansion
was the home of the great
director and actor Konstantin
Stanislavskiy.
Stanislavskiy found himself
disillusioned with the conser-
vative ethos of the old Moscow
Theatre School, and created an
outlet for his innovative ideas
by founding the Moscow Arts
Theatre (MKhAT) in 1898. After
moving into this apartment, he
converted his ballroom into a
makeshift theatre where he
rehearsed his experimental
Opera Dramatic Group. The
actors would step on stage
from the adjacent Red Room,
which served as a make-up
studio and held furniture for
rehearsals and classes. To this
day, actors, directors and opera
singers continue to perform
here at weekends.
Stanislavskiy was indifferent
to his surroundings and, for
most of his life, slept in his
study. Only when he fell ill
in 1928 did he move into a
purpose-built bedroom. He
died here a decade later.
0 Bolshaya
Nikitskaya Ulitsa
Большая Никитская улица
Bolshaya Nikitskaya ulitsa
Map 2 F5, E5. q Arbatskaya,
Okhotnyy Ryad, Biblioteka imeni
Lenina.
This historic street, once the
main road to Novgorod, is
named after the Nikitskiy
Convent which was founded
in the 16th century, but pulled
down by Stalin in the 1930s.
Prominent aristocratic families
such as the Menshikovs and
Orlovs built their palaces here in
the 18th century. The finest is
the former residence of Prince
T V E R S K AYA  95
Stanislavskiy and Chekhov
Konstantin Stanislavskiy’s successful
production of Anton Chekhov’s The
Seagull took the theatre world by storm.
Stanislavskiy’s secret was his new school
of Method acting, in which performers
explored their characters’ inner motives.
Stanislavskiy and Chekhov collaborated
on the premieres of other Chekhov
plays and the success of the productions
Konstantin Stanislavskiy in the was such that their names have been
play Uncle Vanya by Chekhov linked ever since.
Sergey Menshikov, which can here in 1928 and 1929, directed
be reached via Gazetniy by avant-garde director
pereulok. The pale blue façade Vsevolod Meyerhold. One of
was reconstructed following the greatest innovators of his
the great fire of 1812 (see pp26– era, Meyerhold was executed
7). The Neo-Classical rear façade, by the State in 1940, largely
which survived the fire, dates because his work did not agree
from around 1775. with the canons of Socialist
Just opposite the Moscow Realism (see p137).
Conservatory (see p96), About halfway along
is the attractive white the road is Nikitskie
Church of the Little Vorota ploshchad,
Ascension. Built named after the
around the end of medieval gate that
the 16th century, used to stand here.
itwas restored in On the square is a
1739 following a fire. modern white
Behind it is the building with a sign
Gothic tower of St Stone relief on Church in the shape of a
Andrew’s Anglican of the Great Ascension large globe hanging
Church. It was built beneath its porch.
for Moscow’s English This is the ITAR-TASS news
community in 1882 by British agency, the mouthpiece of
architect Richard Freeman. the Communist Party in the
The heavily ornamented red- Soviet era and now Russia’s
brick building at Nos. 19–20 main news agency.
was once called the Paradise Opposite is the Church of
Theatre. It was renamed the the Great Ascension. Begun
Mayakovsky Theatre after the in 1798, it was rebuilt after the
poet Vladimir Mayakovsky (see 1812 fire. Alexander Pushkin
p113). His plays Bath House and (see p75) married Natalya
The Bed Bug were premiered Goncharova here in 1831.
Sign in the shape of a globe hanging outside the ITAR-TASS news agency
96  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
The Bolshoy Zal (Great Hall) in the Moscow Conservatory
q Moscow
Conservatory
Московская консерватория
Moskovskaya Konservatoriya
Bolshaya Nikitskaya ulitsa 13/6. Map 2
F5. Tel (495) 629 9401. q Arbatskaya,
Pushkinskaya. Open performances
only. ∑ mosconsv.ru
The largest music school
in Russia was founded in 1866
by Nikolay Rubinstein, the
brother of composer and
pianist Anton Rubinstein.
One of the Conservatory’s
teachers was the young Pyotr
Tchaikovsky, who taught here
until 1878. On the forecourt is his
statue, wielding a baton despite
the fact that Tchaikovsky
detested conducting. The work
of Vera Mukhina, it dates from
1954. The pattern on the fore-
court railings is made up of the
opening notes from some of
Tchaikovsky’s works.
Portraits of famous com-
posers adorn the walls of the
light, airy Bolshoy Zal (Great
Hall). Used for concerts since
1898, it is also the setting for
the prestigious Tchaikovsky
International Competition
(see p200). The Conservatory
has a small museum that is
open during perfomances.
The Conservatory has always
been an important training
ground for young Russian
composers and performers.
Among its best-known alumni
are pianist-composers Sergei
Rachmaninov and Aleksandr
Skryabin (see p74). Dmitriy
Shostakovich, the great Soviet
composer, lived nearby, at the
Composers’ Union on Bryusov
pereulok (see p94). He taught at
the Conservatory from 1942
until he fell from favour and
was sacked 6 years later for
“professional incompetence”
during Stalin’s Purges (see p29).
w Moscow Old
University
Московский университет
Moskovskiy Universitet
Mokhovaya ulitsa 9. Map 2 F5.
q Okhotnyy Ryad, Biblioteka
imeni Lenina.
Founded by the scholar Mikhail
Lomonosov in 1755, this is the
oldest university in Russia. It
moved into this imposing
building (now called the Old
University) in 1793. Designed
by Matvey Kazakov (see
pp46–7), it was extensively
rebuilt by Domenico
Gilardi after the 1812
fire (see pp26–7) and is
a fine example of Neo-
Classical architecture.
Outside are statues
of radical writers
Nikolay Ogarev and
The Manège, designed by Augustin de Béthencourt in 1817
Aleksandr Herzen. In 1836 the
university acquired a building on
the far side of Bolshaya Nikitskaya
ulitsa. In front of the New
University is a statue of Mikhail
Lomonosov. Nearby is the chapel
of St Tatyana, whose feast day is
celebrated by the students.
e Manège
Манеж
Manezh
Manezhnaya ploshchad 1. Map 6 F1.
Tel (495) 648 1717. q Biblioteka
imeni Lenina, Okhotnyy Ryad.
Open exhibitions only. & -
The Manège was originally built
in 1817 as a military parade
ground to a design by General
Augustin de Béthencourt. The
45-m- (148-ft-) wide roof had
no supporting columns, leaving
an uninterrupted floor space
large enough for an infantry
regiment to practise in.
In 1823–5 Osip Bove (see p47)
added a colonnade and
decorative frieze to the exterior.
The Manège became the
Central Exhibition Hall in 1957
and it was at an exhibition here
in 1962 that Nikita Khrushchev
(see p32) famously condemned
abstract art. The brunt of the
attack was borne by the
sculptor Ernst Neizvestniy
but, curiously, in his will
Khrushchev chose
Neizvestniy to design
his tombstone (see
p133). Fire partly
destroyed the building
in 2004 but it was
swiftly rebuilt. Today
the Manège is still
Statue of Mikhail mostly used to
Lomonosov house exhibitions.
 T V E R S K AYA  97

masterpiece of Style-Moderne his earlier support for the

architecture (see p47) in 1900. Bolshevik Party made him a
The house belonged to arts useful propaganda tool for the
patron and millionaire banker Soviet government. He served
Stepan Ryabushinskiy until he this function by being president
left Russia with his family after of the Union of Writers, which
the Revolution. In 1931 Stalin explains why the rooms are full
presented the mansion as a of photos of the author in the
gift to the famous socialist company of aspiring dramatists,
writer Maxim Gorky. Young Pioneers and ambitious
The interior of the house is Communist officials.
spectacular, featuring ceilings On display are Gorky’s hat,
with elaborate mouldings, overcoat and walking stick,
stained-glass windows and his remarkable collection of
carved door frames. However, oriental carvings and many
the pièce de résistance is the of his letters and books,
The extravagant interior of the flowing staircase of polished including some first editions.
19th-century House of Friendship Estonian limestone, which ends Shortly after Gorky died in
in a lamp resembling a jellyfish. 1936, Genrikh Yagoda, the
r House of By the time Gorky moved former head of the NKVD
Friendship to this house, his career as a (secret police), was accused
Дом дружбы novelist and playwright was of murdering him. Although
Dom Druzhby in decline. While living here, the charge was probably fabri-
he wrote only one play, Yegor cated, Yagoda was found guilty
Vozdvizhenka ulitsa 16. Map 6 E1. Bulychev and Others (1932), in one of the last of the noto-
Tel (495) 690 2069. q Arbatskaya, and part of a novel, The Life of rious show trials (see p29).
Biblioteka imeni Lenina. Open
Klim Samgin (unfinished at his Rumours persist that Gorky
performances only.
death). However his fame and was killed on Stalin’s orders.
This incredible mansion has
towers encrusted with stone
shells and topped by lacelike
stonework. Vladimir Mazyrin
designed it at the end of the
19th century for the playboy
Arseny Morozov, a member
of the wealthy Morozov
family (see p98). The interior
is just as showy; rooms include
a hunting hall filled with
carved animal heads. The only
way to see inside is to attend
a concert or lecture held here.
In Soviet times the mansion
was used by the Union of
Friendship Societies, hence
its name.

t Gorky House-
Museum
Дом-музей АМ Горького
Dom-muzey AM Gorkovo
Malaya Nikitskaya ulitsa 6/2. Map 2 E5.
Tel (495) 690 0535. q Tverskaya,
Arbat. Open 11am–5:30pm Wed–
Sun. Closed last Thu of the month.
8 English.

A frieze of irises against a

background of blue and purple
clouds runs round the top of
the yellow glazed-brick walls
of this extraordinary mansion.
Fyodor Shekhtel designed this The spectacular Style-Moderne staircase in the Gorky House-Museum
98  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
yChekhov House-
Museum
Дом-музей АП Чехова
Dom-muzey AP Chekhova
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ulitsa 6.
Map 2 D5. Tel (495) 691 3837.
q Barrikadnaya. Open 2–8pm Wed &
Fri, 11am–6pm Tue, Thu & Sat.
Closed last day of month. & ^ 8
book in advance.
Anton Chekhov (1860–1904)
lived in this two-storey house in
1886–90. It was later refurbished
in consultation with the
author’s widow, actress
Olga Knipper-Chekhova, and
opened as a museum in 1954.
However, it is only partially
successful in re-creating a
period feeling and contains few
of Chekhov’s possessions.
Chekhov was a qualified
doctor and was practising
medicine when he lived here,
as the brass plate by the front
door testifies. He shared the
house with his parents, his
brother, Mikhail, and his sister,
Mariya. As the family’s main
breadwinner, Chekhov could
only write in his spare time, but
it was here that he created his
first major play, Ivanov. He also
wrote many short stories and
several one-act plays here.
Exhibits in the study, which
doubled as a consulting room,
include Chekhov’s doctor’s
bag, manuscripts and pictures,
including some of him with
Leo Tolstoy (see p136).
Upstairs are a richly deco-
rated living room and Mariya’s
room, which, in some ways, is
the most attractive in the house.
Its furnishings include a sewing
machine, ornaments and
embroidered tablecloths.
An exhibition about
Chekhov’s later career as a
playwright (see p95) includes
first editions of his works.
Picture of Chekhov (on the left) talking with
Leo Tolstoy, in the Chekhov House-Museum
The Gothic-style Morozov Mansion, designed by Fyodor Shekhtel
u Morozov Mansion
Дом ЗГ Морозовой
Dom ZG Morozovoy
Spiridonovka ulitsa 17. Map 2 D4.
q Mayakovskaya. Closed to public.
Fyodor Shekhtel (see p47)
built this house for his patron,
Savva Morozov, in 1893–8.
Savva Morozov was a wealthy
textiles manufacturer and
arts patron, a member of
one of the city’s richest
merchant families.
The mansion was built in
the Gothic style to resemble
a baronial castle, with turrets,
gargoyles and arched windows.
Some of the stained-glass win-
dows were designed by the
Symbolist artist Mikhail Vrubel.
i Patriarch’s Ponds
Патриаршие пруды
Patriarshie prudy
Map 2 D4. q Mayakovskaya.
A few minutes’ walk from the
busy Garden Ring is a secluded,
tree-lined square with a large
pond at its heart, named after
the patriarch who formerly
owned the land. For a long time
there has been only one pond,
though there used to be several.
Near the children’s
playground is a bronze statue of
the 19th-century playwright
and writer of popular fables Ivan
Krylov. Sculptures of the
creatures from his stories are
dotted among the trees.
Patriarch’s Ponds is probably
best known as the setting for
the opening scene in Mikhail
Bulgakov’s novel The Master and
Margarita, in which the Devil
appears in Moscow and causes
havoc. Bulgakov lived nearby for
3 years during the 1920s.
Graffiti at Bulgakov’s apartment by
enthusiasts of his work
oBulgakov House-
Museum
Музей Булгаковский дом
Bulgakovskiy dom
Bolshaya Sadovaya ulitsa 10.
Map 2 D3. Tel (495) 970 0619.
q Mayakovskaya. Open 1–11pm
Sun–Thu, 1pm–1am Fri–Sat. -
This cultural centre is
dedicated to Mikhail Bulgakov
(1891–1940), the Russian
author whose best-known
work, The Master and Margarita,
was not published until long
after his death. During his
lifetime, many of his satirical
plays were banned. Bulgakov
became so frustrated that
he wrote to Stalin asking
to be exiled. Instead, he was
given a job at the Moscow
Arts Theatre (see p94). Many
of Bulgakov’s possessions
are on display. Admirers can
also visit his former apartment
two doors along.

Maxim gun used in the Civil War, Museum
of Contemporary History
p Museum of
Contemporary
History
Музей современной истории
Muzey sovremennoy istorii
Tverskaya ulitsa 21. Map 2 E4. Tel (495)
699 6724. q Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8
English. - ∑ sovr.ru
A pair of stone lions guards this
elegant red mansion, built in
the late 18th century. The wings
and Empire-style façade (see
p47) were added some decades
later. In 1831 the mansion
became a gentlemen’s club,
known as the English Club,
and until the Revolution, the
Muscovite aristocracy drank
and gambled here.
Ironically, this building, with
all its aristocratic associations,
became the Museum of the
Revolution. However, since the
Soviet Union broke up in 1991,
the collections display a more
objective view of 20th-century
Russian history; the name of
the museum has also been
changed to reflect this shift.
Laid out chronologically, the
exhibits cover 1900–91. They
include home-made grenades,
a Maxim gun on a converted
carriage (used in the Civil War),
sweet wrappers depicting Marx
and Lenin and former premier
Nikita Khrushchev’s hat and
camera from his 1959 trip to the
United States. The so-called
propaganda porcelain and gifts
presented to Soviet rulers are
also interesting.
a Pushkin Square
Пушкинская площадь
Pushkinskaya ploshchad
Map 2 F4. q Pushkinskaya,
Tverskaya, Chekhovskaya.
The bronze statue of poet
Alexander Pushkin was
unveiled in the presence of
two other Russian literary
giants, Fyodor Dostoevsky and
Ivan Turgenev, in 1880. The
statue, located on the south
side of Pushkin Square, was
sculpted by Alexander
Opekushin.
Pushkin has long epitomized
the spirit of freedom in Russia
and the statue occasionally
became a rallying point for
demonstrations in the 1960s and This monastery was founded
1970s, which sometimes ended
in clashes between the KGB
and demonstrators.
Before the
Revolution
Pushkin Square
was called
Strastnaya
ploshchad
(Passion Square)
after the
17th-century The statue of poet Alexander
Convent of the Pushkin, on Pushkin Square
Passion which
used to stand here. The convent was built in 1514–17 to a
was demolished in 1935 to
make way for the monstrous
Rossiya cinema.
Just beyond the cinema, on
Malaya Dmitrovka ulitsa, is the
Church of the Nativity of the
Virgin in Putinki. Built in 1649–
52, this attractive church has
clustered tent roofs, tiered
kokoshniki gables (see p46)
Iconostasis in the Baroque bell tower of the Upper Monastery of St Peter
T V E R S K AYA  99
and blue onion domes.
On the northeast corner of the
square stand the offices of the
newspaper Izvestiya. Once an
official mouthpiece of the Soviet
government, Izvestiya is now
one of Russia’s independent
daily newspapers.
s Upper Monastery
of St Peter
Высоко-Петровский
монастырь
Vysoko-Petrovskiy monastyr
Petrovka ulitsa 28/2. Map 3 A3.
Tel (495) 694 6437. q Pushkinskaya,
Chekhovskaya. Open 8am–7pm daily.
8 book in advance.
in the reign of Ivan I (see p20).
It was rebuilt in the late 17th
century with sponsorship
from the Naryshkin
family, relatives of
Peter the Great.
Its six churches
include the
Church of
the Metropolitan
Peter after which
the monastery is
named. This single-
domed church
design by Aleviz Novyy.
The Church of the Icon of
the Virgin of Bogolyubovo
commemorates three of
Peter the Great’s uncles
killed in the 1682 Streltsy
Rebellion (see p24). The
Refectory Church of St
Sergius has five cupolas
and scallop shell decoration.
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  101

RED SQUARE AND KITAY

GOROD
Moscow’s first suburb, Kitay Gorod, was item, such as icons, pans or hats. In
settled as early as the 12th century by the 16th century, a number of boyars
tradesmen and artisans employed by the (see p22), including Russia’s future rulers,
tsar. The word kitay is thought to refer to the Romanovs, built their estates nearby,
the wattle used to build the ramparts while the presence of merchants from
around the suburb. Red Square was created Novgorod and as far away as England was
as a market square beside the Kremlin (see actively encouraged. Later, in the 19th
pp54–69) in the late 15th century. Behind century, Kitay Gorod became Moscow’s
it, trading rows were set up, each line of financial district, home to the Stock
wooden cabins specializing in a particular Exchange and major banks.

Sights at a Glance
Places of Worship Museums and Galleries Restaurants see pp187–8
4 Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki 3 Chambers of the Romanov Boyars 1 Avocado
6 Cathedral of the Epiphany q Lenin Mausoleum 2 Bardak
8 Kazan Cathedral t Polytechnical Museum 3 Bobby Dazzler
e St Basil’s Cathedral pp110–11 u Mayakovsky Museum 4 Goodman Steakhouse
y Choral Synagogue 5 Jagannat
s Convent of the Nativity of 6 Liga Pap
the Virgin 7 Ludi Kak Ludi
Streets and Squares 8 Maharaja
0 metres 400 9 Nostalgie
1 Ulitsa Varvarka
0 yards 400 10 Petrovich
5 Ulitsa Ilinka
11 Propaganda
7 Nikolskaya Ulitsa
12 Schastye
0 Red Square
13 Stolovaya 57
r Ivanovskaya Hill
14 Tapa de Comida
i Lubyanka Square RO Z
HD ES
TVENSK I Y BULVAR SRETENSK
15 U-Me
o Chistoprudnyy Bulvar IY B
ULV
350m
400m AR 16 Volkonsky
Н КА

Historic Buildings Turgenevskaya

UL ROZHDESTVENK A

2 Old English Court

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Moskvoretskiy Мос YA
most кв
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See also Street Finder
Bolshoy Ustinskiy
maps 3 & 7 most

The distinctive Russian-Revivial-style Historical Museum, located on Red Square For keys to symbols see back flap
102  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Kitay Gorod

6 Cathedral of
Commerce and religion go hand-in-hand in this
the Epiphany
ancient part of the city. The heart of Moscow’s This cathedral was
financial district is Birzhevaya ploshchad, and the once part of the
surrounding area has been home to traders for second oldest
monastery in
centuries. Among the banks and offices are an
Moscow. Built
increasing number of upmarket stores, especially between 1693–6,
lining Nikolskaya ulitsa, and the area now rivals it is a fine example
Russia’s best-known shopping arcade, GUM of florid Moscow
Baroque.
(see p109). At one time there were more
than 40 churches and monasteries
dotted about these narrow streets. S
A Russian Supreme Court
Only around a dozen have IT
L
survived and most of these U
A
are now undergoing Y
A
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painstaking restoration. L
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7 Nikolskaya Ulitsa
Well-heeled shoppers now head to this street’s The Old Merchants’
boutiques and jewellery shops. Among its Chambers (Staryy
KH

more colourful sights is the Gothic-style Synodal Gostinyy Dvor),

RU

Printing House, which dates from the 19th century. dating from the 18th
S TA

to 19th centuries,
LN

now houses a
YY

Key shopping arcade.

PER

Suggested route
EU
LO
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Church of
St Barbara
5 Ulitsa Ilinka
Halfway along ulitsa Ilinka is Birzhevaya
ploshchad, where the former Stock
Exchange is located. Constructed in
1873–5 by Aleksandr Kaminskiy, this
attractive, pink, Classical-style building
is now the home of the Russian Chamber
of Industry and Commerce.
 R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D  103

1 Ulitsa Varvarka
Several historic churches
line this ancient route out
of Moscow. Among them is RED SQUARE
AND KITAY
the Church of St Maxim the GOROD
Blessed, which was paid for
by Novgorod merchants
trading in Kitay Gorod and KREMLIN
consecrated in 1698. M o s k va

Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 3 & 7

4 . Church of the Trinity

in Nikitniki
Commissioned by the wealthy
merchant Grigoriy Nikitnikov
and completed in 1635, the
church is famous both for its
exuberant architecture and for
its vivid frescoes. It is currently
closed for renovations.

This house belonged

KA
IN to Simon Ushakov, a leading
IL
SA 17th-century icon and fresco
IT
UL painter. He worked on the
nearby Church of the
Trinity in Nikitniki.
NIK

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OK

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A VAR
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Monastery of the Sign

2 Old English Court

Restored to its 17th-century appearance,
this merchants’ residence was given
0 metres 100
to visiting English traders by Ivan
the Terrible in the hope of securing
0 yards 100 arms and other goods from them.
For keys to symbols see back flap
104  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
1 Ulitsa Varvarka
Улица Варварка
Ulitsa Varvarka
Map 7 B1–C1. q Kitay Gorod.
The heart of the former
merchants’ quarter of Zaryade,
ulitsa Varvarka is one of
Moscow’s oldest streets. It
is named after the original
Church of St Barbara (Varvara)
the Martyr. This earlier building
was demolished in 1796 to
make way for a new pink and
white Neo-Classical church of
the same name, designed by
Rodion Kazakov.
A little further along is the
single-domed Church of St
Maxim the Blessed. Built by
traders from Novgorod to
house the bones of St Maxim,
it was consecrated in 1698.
Between the two churches
stands the Old English Court.
Across the road are the Old
Merchants’ Chambers (Staryy
gostinyy dvor), which are
fronted by a row of Corinthian
columns. Italian architect
Giacomo Quarenghi drew up
plans for this market in 1790,
and the work was supervised
by Moscow architects Semen
Karin and Ivan Selekhov. There
are shops here and perform-
ances and exhibitions are held
in the covered yard. Beyond the
Church of St Maxim are the
17th-century Monastery of
the Sign and the Palace
of the Romanov Boyars.
At the end of ulitsa Varvarka is
the Church of St George, built in
1657–8 by merchants from Pskov,
A view along ulitsa Varkarva, with the Old English Court straight ahead
The five domes of the Church of St George
on ulitsa Varvarka
a town known for its architects
(see p46). To the right, on
Kitaygorodskiy proezd, is one of
the few sections of the old city
walls to survive. At the end of this
street, beside the Moskva river, is
the mid-16th-century Church of
the Conception of St Anna.
2 Old English Court
Старый английский двор
Staryy angliyskiy dvor
Ulitsa Varvarka 4a. Map 7 B1. Tel (495)
698 3952. Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed
& Fri–Sun, 1–9pm Thu. Closed last Fri
of month. q Ploshchad Revolyutsii,
Kitay Gorod. & 8 English (book in
advance).
In 1553, while searching the
northern coast of Russia
for a passage to the east, the
English merchant adventurer
Richard Chancellor (see p23) was
shipwrecked. He was taken to
Moscow and received by Ivan
the Terrible, whose desire to
trade with England later led him
to propose marriage to Queen
Elizabeth I. On returning to
Russia in 1556, Chancellor and
his trading mission were given
this large property in Zaryade.
It was to serve as a storage
and trading house and
as accommodation for
English merchants.
In the mid-17th century,
the estate passed into Russian
hands and by the 1900s it had
been extensively altered. After
the Revolution (see pp28–31),
the house was restored. It later
reopened as a museum during
the official visit of Queen
Elizabeth II to Russia in 1994.
Inside, an exhibition high-
lights the history of the Old
English Court and its role in
developing Anglo-Russian
relations. Stone staircases
lead down to the cellars
and the official chamber
used for negotiations and
functions. English merchants
fitted the Russian stove
with an open hearth as a
reminder of home.
3 Chambers of the
Romanov Boyars
Палаты бояр Pомановых в
Зарядье
Palaty Boyar Romanovikh
Ulitsa Varvarka 10. Map 7 B1.
Tel (495) 698 1256. Open 11am–7pm
Wed, 10am–6pm Thu–Mon.
Closed first Mon of the month.
q Kitay Gorod. &
Only the upper storeys of
this palace can be seen
from ulitsa Varvarka. This is
largely because the palace is
built on a steep slope leading
away from the street down
towards the Moskva river.
The palace was originally
built by the boyar (see p22)
Nikita Romanov in the 16th
century. It was home to the
Romanovs until 1613 when
Mikhail Romanov (see p21)
became tsar and the family
moved to the Kremlin. The
palace has been protected
as a museum since 1859.
The main entrance is reached
via a courtyard; a double-
 R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D  105

headed eagle, the Romanov

family crest, adorns the archway
leading to the courtyard.
The ground and first floors
of the palace probably date
from the 17th century. In the
painted hall, personal effects
of the early Romanovs are
displayed, including gold
dishes, ancient title deeds,
ledgers inlaid with precious
gems and the robes of Nikita’s
eldest son, Patriarch Fyodor
Filaret. The rooms have been
refurbished in the lavish style
of the period, with walls
covered in gilt-embossed
leather or painted in rich
reds, greens and golds.
In the 16th and 17th
centuries even the richest
families had to tolerate rather
cramped and dim conditions.
The por tals in the palace are
so low that a man of average
height has to stoop, and little
light is let in by the windows
as they are made of mica, a
translucent mineral, rather Gilded iconostasis in the Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki
than glass.
In the mid-19th century the 4 Church of the The Church of the Trinity is
light and airy, wooden upper Trinity in Nikitniki famous for its frescoes, which
storey was added to the build- Церковь Троицы в were finished in 1656, shortly
ing. The main hall on this level after Nikitnikov died from the
Hикитниках
has a beautifully carved wooden plague. They portray scenes
Tserkov Troitsy v Nikitnikakh
ceiling. An anteroom has a from the Gospels, such as
display of embroidery. Nikitnikov pereulok 3. Map 7 C1. The Parable of the Rich Man,
The vaulted cellars are the q Kitay Gorod. Closed to public. in direct, emotional terms.
least interesting rooms and Among the artists who
contain an odd mix of trunks, Like the churches on ulitsa made an important contribution
baskets and kitchen items. Varvarka, this marvellous church to the church’s decoration was
is dwarfed by monstrous post- the great fresco and icon painter
war buildings that were Semen Ushakov. He painted a
formerly Communist number of the frescoes
Party offices. When it and several of the
was founded in 1635 panels in the splendid
by the wealthy gilded iconostasis.
merchant, Grigoriy Among his works is the
Nikitnikov, the Annunciation of the
church would have Virgin, which can be
dominated the local seen to the left of the
skyline. It is at present Royal Gate (see p63)
closed while it is Carvings on the porch on the iconostasis.
being restored. of the Church of the Members of the
The church has Trinity in Nikitniki Nikitnikov family are
five green domes, a commemorated in
profusion of decoration the frescoes in the corner
and painted tiles, and tiers of Chapel of St Nikita the Martyr.
kokoshniki gables (see p46). The Semen Ushakov was a
equally elaborate tent-roofed parishioner and his house is
bell tower, which is linked to the around the corner from the
main building by an enclosed church on Ipatevskiy pereulok.
Ornate dining room in the Chambers gallery, was added shortly after It is an unremarkable 17th-
of the Romanov Boyars the church was finished. century, red-brick building.
106  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
Striking 19th-century commercial buildings lining ulitsa Ilinka
5 Ulitsa Ilinka
Улица Ильинка
Ulitsa Ilinka
Map 7 B1. q Kitay Gorod.
In the 19th century this narrow
but majestic street was the
commercial heart of Kitay
Gorod, and home to numerous
banks and trading offices. Their
richly decorated façades were
intended to impress and are still
the chief pleasure of a stroll
along the street. Today, ulitsa
Ilinka is once more the location
of a number of commercial and
financial institutions, including
the Ministry of Finance.
The name Ilinka refers to the
former Ilinskiy Monastery, of
which no traces now remain.
The monastery once stood
where the 17th-century Church
of St Elijah can now be seen, at
No. 3. Further along, at No. 6,
on the corner of Birzhevaya
ploshchad, is a peach-coloured
building with a Neo-Classical
portico, which at present
houses the Russian Chamber
of Industry and Commerce.
Originally these were the
premises of Moscow’s Stock
Exchange, which was rebuilt by
Aleksandr Kamenskiy in 1873–5,
having first opened in 1836. At
that time many of Moscow’s
merchants still wore long
patriarchal beards and the
traditional kaftan, and were
used to dealing with one
another in the street. They at
first refused to enter the new
Stock Exchange and, in the end,
were coralled into the building
by the police. Across the street
from this building is the former
Trinity Sergius Hostel, which was
the city mission of the Trinity
Monastery of St Sergius (see
pp164–7). Now part of the
Russian Supreme Court, it was
built by Pavel Skomoroshenko
in 1876 and is a restrained
example of the Russian-Revival
style (see p47).
A building which formerly
served as offices for the Soviet
government stands at the
corner of ulitsa Ilinka and
Bolshoy Cherkasskiy pereulok.
Uncompromisingly plain, with
glazed tiles and rows of
narrowly spaced windows,
it was designed by Vladimir
Mayat in the 1920s.
6 Cathedral of the
Epiphany
Собор Богоявления
Sobor Bogoyavleniya
Bogoyavlenskiy pereulok 2, stroenie 4.
Map 3 A5. Tel (495) 698 3825.
q Ploshchad Revolyutsii.
Open 8am–8pm daily. ^
This splendid cathedral once
formed part of the Monastery
of the Epiphany, the second
oldest monastery in Moscow.
Founded in 1296 by Prince
Daniil Aleksandrovich, father of
Grand Prince Ivan (see p20), it
was built on what at that time
was the edge of the city.
The cathedral which stands
today is an addition to the
original medieval complex
and dates from 1693–6. The
wedding-cake pink building is
distinguished by its massive but
refined tower, a masterpiece of
Moscow Baroque (see p46). An
abbot chamber and cells for
monks were built at the end of
the 17th century, and the bell
tower was erected in 1739.
7 Nikolskaya Ulitsa
Николъская yлица
Nikolskaya ulitsa
Map 3 A5. q Lubyanka, Ploshchad
Revolyutsii.
By the end of the 12th century,
this street, which is named after
the Kremlin’s St Nicholas Tower
(see p68), had been settled by
merchants and traders. Trading
stalls and shops remained a
feature of the street until the
Revolution. Following a dowdy
period under Communism,
Nikolskaya ulitsa has since
moved upmarket with the
arrival of several expensive
clothing stores and jewellers.
Through the courtyard at
No. 7 is a gateway leading into
the Zaikonospasskiy Monastery,
which was founded in the
15th century or earlier. The
name means Saviour Beyond
the Icons and recalls the time
when there was a brisk trade in
icons here. The monastery
church, with its dilapidated red
brick tower and spire, dates
from the 17th century. It is now
open again for worship. From
1687 to 1814 the monastery
also housed Moscow’s first
institute of higher education,
referred to laboriously as the
Slavic Greek Latin Academy.
Gothic-style façade of the Synodal Printing
House, Nikolskaya ulitsa

Kazan Cathedral, a faithful 1990s reconstruction of the original cathedral
Among its pupils was the
famous polymath and future
founder of Moscow University,
Mikhail Lomonosov (see p96).
At No. 15 are the fanciful
Gothic-style spires of the
Synodal Printing House. The
pale blue building, with a lion
and unicorn sculpted over its
central window, contrasting
with an incongruous hammer
and sickle above, dates from
1810 to 1814. The courtyard is
enhanced by a colourful
chequered roof and walls of
blue and white tiles. In the
chambers previously on this
site Ivan Fyodorov produced
Russia’s first printed book, The
Acts of the Apostles, in 1564.
Next door, in the courtyard
of No. 17, was the former
Slavyanskiy Bazaar restaurant,
which opened in 1870. Among
its former patrons was Anton
Chekhov (see p98). This
restaurant was also where the
theatre directors Konstantin
Stanislavskiy and Vladimir
Nemirovich-Danchenko began
a meeting which concluded
with the founding of the
Moscow Arts Theatre (see p94).
R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D
Following a fire in 1993,
the restaurant closed. It
now houses the Moscow
Chamber Musical Theatre.
On the opposite side of
the road is a building that
used to house the Chizhevskoe
Inn, a combined inn and
warehouse for traders passing
through Kitay Gorod. In the
courtyard behind it is the
17th-century Church of
the Assumption.
Floodlit Resurrection Gate, inside which is
the Chapel of the Iverian Virgin
 107
8 Kazan Cathedral
Казaнский собор
Kazanskiy sobor
Nikolskaya ulitsa 3. Map 3 A5.
Tel (495) 698 2726. q Okhotnyy
Ryad. Open 8am–8pm daily. ^
This diminutive cathedral
is a replica of an original
demolished in 1936. Its
predecessor was consecrated
in 1637 and housed the Icon
of the Kazan Virgin. The icon
was revered because it had
accompanied Prince Dmitriy
Pozharskiy during his
victorious campaign against
the invading Poles 25 years
earlier (see p111).
Detailed plans and photo-
graphs, kept by architect
Pyotr Baranovskiy, assisted
reconstruction of the cathedral
in 1990–1993 (see p46). It was
reconsecrated by Patriarch
Aleksey II in the presence of
President Boris Yeltsin and
the mayor of Moscow, Yuriy
Luzhkov. The Icon of the
Kazan Virgin is a copy as the
original was stolen in 1904.
9 Resurrection
Gate
Воскресенские ворота
Voskresenskie vorota
Krasnaya ploshchad. Map 3 A5.
q Okhotnyy Ryad, Ploshchad
Revolyutsii.
Rebuilt in 1995 (see p46),
this gateway, with its twin
red towers topped by green
tent spires, is an exact copy
of the original completed on
this site in 1680. The first
gateway was demolished
in 1931. Note the mosaic
icons on the gate, one of which
depicts Moscow’s patron saint,
St George, slaying the dragon.
Within the gateway is the
equally colourful Chapel of
the Iverian Virgin, which was
originally built in the late
18th century to house an
icon. Whenever the tsar
came to Moscow, he would
visit this shrine before entering
the Kremlin (see pp54–69).
Visitors should try to see the
gate at night, when it is
impressively lit up.
108  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Red Square
Resurrection
Gate
Kazan
Historical Cathedral
Museum
GUM
Kremlin
Wall
Lenin
Kremlin Mausoleum
Lobnoe
Saviour’s Mesto
Tower

St Basil’s Cathedral

Rows of grim-faced Soviet

The vast expanse of Red Square, with the Historical Museum at the far end
0 Red Square
Красная площадь
Krasnaya ploshchad
Map 7 B1. q Ploshchad Revolyutsii,
Okhotnyy Ryad. Historical Museum:
Tel (495) 692 4019. Open 10am–6pm
Mon, Wed & Fri–Sun, 11am–9pm Thu.
Closed last Wed of the month. & 7 verance from Lobnoe Mesto.
8-
Towards the end of the 15th
century, Ivan III (see p20) gave
orders for houses in front of the
Kremlin to be cleared to make
way for this square. It originally
served as a market called the
torg, but the wooden stalls
burned down so often that the
area later became popularly
known as Fire Square. The
current name dates from the
17th century and is derived
from the Russian word krasnyy,
which originally meant “beau-
tiful” but later came to denote
“red”. The association between
the colour red and Communism era. Military parades took their
is purely coincidental.
Red Square, which is app-
roximately 500 m (1,600 ft) in
length, was also the setting for
public announcements and
executions. At its southern end,
in front of St Basil’s Cathedral
(see pp110–11), there is a small
circular dais. Called Lobnoe
Mesto, this is the platform from
which the tsars and patriarchs
would address the people. In
1606 the first “False Dmitry” (see
p21), a usurper of the throne,
was killed by a hostile crowd.
His body was finally left at
Lobnoe Mesto.
Six years later, a second
pretender to the throne, who
leaders observed them from
outside the Lenin Mausoleum.
They, in turn, would be keenly
like the first “False Dmitry” was studied by professional krem-
backed by Poland, took power. linologists in the West trying to
He was expelled from the work out the pecking order.
Kremlin by an army led by the Today the square is used
Russian heroes Dmitriy for a variety of cultural events,
Pozharskiy and Kuzma Minin, concerts, firework displays
who proclaimed Russia’s deli- and other public occasions.
The red-brick building facing
In 1818, a statue St Basil’s Cathedral
was erected in their was constructed by
honour (see p111). Vladimir Sherwood
This now stands in in 1883 in the
front of St Basil’s. Russian-Revival
Red Square has style (see p47).
also long been a It houses the
stage for pageants Lobnoe Mesto, the platform from Historical Museum.
and processions. which the tsar spoke The museum boasts
Before the Revo- over four million
lution (see pp28–31), the exhibits covering the rise and
patriarch would ride an ass expansion of the Russian state.
through Saviour’s Gate (see p68) In front of the museum’s
to St Basil’s each Palm Sunday to façade on Manezhnaya
commemorate Christ’s entry ploshchad is a statue by
into Jerusalem. Vyacheslav Klykov of one of
Religious processions were the heroes of World War II
abolished in the Communist (see p150), Marshal Georgiy
Zhukov. This statue of him
place and were staged each was unveiled in 1995 to mark
year on May Day and on the the 50th anniversary of the
anniversary of the Revolution. end of World War II.
Aleksey Shchusev’s Lenin Mausoleum, with the Kremlin Wall behind
 R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D  109

q Lenin Mausoleum
Мавзолей ВИ Ленина
Mavzoley VI Lenina
Krasnaya ploshchad. Map 7 A1.
Tel (495) 623 5527. q Ploshchad
Revolyutsii, Okhotnyy Ryad.
Open 10am–1pm Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun.
^ Strictly no cameras, even if it is in
your bag.

Following Lenin’s death in

1924, and against his wishes,
it was decided to preserve
the former Soviet leader’s body
for posterity. The body was
embalmed and placed in a
temporary wooden mausoleum
in Red Square. Once it became
clear that the embalming
process had worked, Aleksey
Shchusev (see p47) designed
the current mausoleum of a
pyramid of cubes cut from red
granite and black labradorite.
Paying one’s respects to Lenin’s
remains was once akin to a
religious experience, and queues
used to trail all over Red Square.
In 1993, however, the goose-
stepping guard of honour was The glass-roofed interior of Russia’s largest department store, GUM
replaced by a lone militiaman
and now the mausoleum attracts w GUM by Aleksandr Pomerantsev
mostly tourists. There are ГУМ in 1889–93 in the then-
rumours that Lenin will soon be GUM fashionable Russian-Revival
moved elsewhere or buried. style. Its archways, wrought-
Krasnaya ploshchad 3. Map 7 B1.
Behind the mausoleum at iron railings and stuccoed
Tel (495) 788 4343. q Ploshchad
the foot of the Kremlin Wall are Revolyutsii, Okhotnyy Ryad. Open
galleries inside are especially
the graves of other famous 10am–10pm daily. 7 ∑ gum.ru impressive when sunlight
communists. They include streams through the glass roof.
Lenin’s successors, Joseph Stalin Before the Revolution, this There were once more than
(at one time laid alongside building was known as 1,000 shops here, selling goods
Lenin in the Mausoleum), the Upper Trading Rows after ranging from furs and silks to
Leonid Brezhnev and Yuriy the covered market that used to humble candles. For a period,
Andropov. Lenin’s wife and stand on the site. In fact, lines of however, during the rule of
sister are also buried here, as stalls used to run all the way Stalin (see p29), GUM’s shops
are the first man in space, Yuriy from here to the Moskva river. were requisitioned as offices.
Gagarin, writer Maxim Gorky GUM has three separate arcades Nowadays, Western firms like
and American John Reed. The which are still called “lines”. The Benetton, Estée Lauder and
last was honoured as the store’s name, Gosudarstvennyy Christian Dior dominate the
author of Ten Days that Shook universalnyy magazin, dates prestigious ground floor along
the World, an account of the from its nationalization in 1921. with a variety of Western-style
October Revolution. The building was designed cafés and restaurants.

Embalming Lenin
“Do not raise monuments to him, or palaces to his name, do
not organize pompous ceremonies in his memory.” Such were
the words of Lenin’s widow, Krupskaya. Despite this, Lenin’s body
was embalmed by two professors and, after a delay to see if the
process had worked, put on display. A laboratory is dedicated
to preserving the body, which needs regular applications of
special fluids. Rumours that parts or all of the body have been
replaced with wax substitutes are vigorously denied.
110  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

e St Basil’s Cathedral
Собор Bасилия Блаженного
Sobor Vasiliya Blazhennovo
Commissioned by Ivan the Terrible (see p20) to celebrate the capture of the Mongol
stronghold of Kazan in 1552, St Basil’s Cathedral was completed in 1561. It is reputed
to have been designed by the architect Postnik Yakovlev. According to legend, Ivan
was so amazed at the beauty of his work that he had him blinded so that
he would never be able to design anything as exquisite again. The church
was officially called the Cathedral of the Intercession because the
final siege of Kazan began on the Feast of the Intercession of the Virgin.
However, it is usually known as St Basil’s after the “holy fool” Basil the
Blessed whose remains are interred within. The cathedral’s design,
which was inspired by traditional Russian timber architecture,
is a riot of gables, tent roofs and twisting onion domes.

. Domes
Following a fire in 1583
the original helmet-
shaped cupolas were
replaced by ribbed or
faceted onion domes. It is
only since 1670 that the
domes have been painted
many colours; at one time
St Basil’s was white with
golden domes.

KEY

1 The Chapel of St Basil, the

ninth chapel to be added to the
cathedral, was built in 1588 to
house the remains of the “holy
fool”, Basil the Blessed.
2 Chapel of the Three Patriarchs
3 Chapel of the Trinity
4 Bell tower Entrance to the
cathedral
5 Tent roof on the Central Chapel
6 Central Chapel of the
Intercession – light floods in
through the windows of the tent-
roofed central church, which soars
to a height of 61 m (200 ft).
7 Chapel of St Nicholas
8 Chapel of St Varlaam
of Khutynskiy
9 Tiered gables
0 The Chapel of the Entry
of Christ into Jerusalem was used
as a ceremonial entrance during Chapel of St Cyprian
the annual Palm Sunday procession. This is one of eight main chapels
On this day the patriarch rode from commemorating the campaigns of
the Kremlin to St Basil’s Cathedral on a Ivan the Terrible against the town
horse dressed up to look like a donkey. of Kazan, to the east of Moscow. It
is dedicated to St Cyprian, whose
q Chapel of Bishop Gregory
feast is on 2 October, the day after
the last attack.
 R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D  111

. Main Iconostasis VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Baroque-style
iconostasis in the Central Practical Information
Chapel of the Intercession Krasnaya ploshchad 2.
dates from the 19th century. Map 7 B1. Tel (495) 698 3304.
However, some of the icons Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm
contained in it were painted Wed–Mon (Nov–Apr:
much earlier. 11am–5pm). & 8 English.
∑ saintbasil.ru

Transport
q Okhotnyy Ryad, Ploschad
Revolyutsii. @ 25. v 8. @
religious hols.

Minin and Pozharskiy

A bronze statue by Ivan Martos depicts two
heroes from the Time of Troubles (see p21),
the butcher Kuzma Minin and Prince Dmitriy
Pozharskiy. They raised a volunteer force to fight
the invading Poles and, in 1612, led their army to
victory when they drove the Poles out of the
Kremlin. The statue was erected
in 1818, in the triumphal
afterglow of the Napoleonic
Wars. Originally placed in the
centre of Red Square facing the
Kremlin, it was moved to its
present site in front of St Basil’s
during the Soviet era.
Monument to Minin
and Prince Pozharskiy

. Gallery
Running around the
outside of the Central
Chapel, the gallery
connects it to the other
eight chapels. It was roofed
over at the end of the
17th century and the walls
and ceilings were decorated
with floral tiles in the
late 18th century.
112  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
r Ivanovskaya Hill
Ивановская горка
Ivanovskaya gorka
Map 3 C5. q Kitay Gorod.
This hilly area takes its name
from the Ivanovskiy Convent
on the corner of ulitsa Zabelina
and Malyy Ivanovskiy pereulok.
The convent’s rather neglected
remains can be seen behind a
twin-towered gateway and
high encircling walls.
Yelena Glinska, mother of Ivan
the Terrible (see p20), founded
the convent in 1533 as a gesture
of thanks for the birth of her
son. Later, however, it doubled
as a prison for many years –
its most famous inmate was
Avgusta Tarakanova, the
illegitimate daughter of Tsarina
Elizabeth (see p24) and Count
Aleksey Razumovskiy. She was
educated abroad before being
brought to Russia in 1785 and
put into the convent under an
assumed name. She spent the
rest of her life here as a solitary
nun, forbidden to receive any
visitors except for the mother
superior. She died in 1810.
Across the road is the Church
of St Vladimir in the Old
Gardens. It was built in 1514 by
Italian architect Aleviz Novyy,
but it was extensively altered
at the end of the 17th century.
Its name refers to the tsar’s
orchards, which used to occupy
the slopes of the hill.
The Church of St Vladimir in the Old Gardens, on Ivanovskaya Hill
One of the pleasures of this
area is exploring its unusually
quiet backstreets. At the end of
Malyy Ivanovskiy pereulok,
which runs down from the
Ivanovskiy Convent, is Podko-
lokolnyy pereulok (Lane
Beneath the Bells). This street
is dominated by the Church of
St Nicholas the Wonder worker,
which dates from the mid-17th
century and is recognizable by
its outsized red bell tower.
Perhaps the most impressive
church in the area is SS Peter
and Paul on Petropavlovskiy
pereulok. It was built in 1700
and contains an icon of the
Bogolyubovskaya Virgin, which
used to hang in a chapel near
the gate to the city at the end
of ulitsa Varvarka (see p104).
To the north, at No. 10
Kolpachiy pereulok is the 17th-
century mansion that reputedly
belonged to the Ukrainian chief
Ivan Mazepa. He fled to Turkish-
controlled Moldova in 1709,
after betraying Peter the Great
(see p24) to the Swedes and
then being defeated by him.
Tchaikovsky set the story to
music in his opera, Mazepa.
The name of another street,
Kokhlovskiy pereulok, may also
have a Ukrainian link; Ukrainians
used to be known as khokhly
because of the tufts of hair they
grew at the back of their shaved
heads (khokhly means tufted in
Russian). The most notable
Russian space programme exhibit at the
Polytechnical Museum
building standing on ulitsa
Maroseyka is the blue and white
mansion at No. 17. This is now
the Belorussian embassy.
t Polytechnical
Museum
Политехнический музей
Politekhnicheskiy muzey
Novaya ploshchad 3/4. Map 3 B5.
Tel (495) 625 0614. Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. Closed last Fri of the month.
q Kitay Gorod, Lubyanka. &
∑ polymus.ru
Designed by architect
Ippolit Monighetti, the
central section of this museum
was built in 1877 and is a
superb example of Russian-
Revival architecture (see p47).
The north and south wings
were added in 1896 and
1907 respectively.
The items on display were
originally assembled for an
exhibition staged in the
Alexander Gardens (see p69)
in 1872. This marked the
200th anniversary of the
birth of Peter the Great,
himself an enthusiastic
amateur scientist.
The museum is a popular
outing for schoolchildren.
Its original collection has
been expanded to trace the
development of Russian
science and technology
during the 19th and 20th
centuries. Exhibits range
from early clocks and cameras
to cars and space capsules.
Every 2 hours there are
demonstrations of devices
such as robots, working models
and sound equipment.

y Choral
Synagogue
ХоральнаяСинагога
Khoralnaya sinagoga
Bolshoy Spasoglinishchevskiy
pereulok 10. Map 3 B5. Tel (495) 940
5557. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. q
Kitay Gorod. & u 8:30am Mon–Fri,
9am Sat & holidays. ∑ synrus.ru
This magificent synagogue’s
Neo-Classical exterior features
a large silver dome and yellow
and white walls. Its constru-
ction began in 1887, largely
funded by banker Lazar
Polyakov, but was abandoned
in 1891 after the governor
ordered the expulsion of
20,000 of Moscow’s Jews.
The synagogue eventually
opened its doors in 1906 and
continued to operate during
the Soviet period. The interior is
decorated in the Moorish style
common to synagogues across
Eastern Europe, with beautiful
arabesques and wonderfully
painted murals. The synagogue
draws Jews from the city’s
growing community and from
further afield.
Magnificent Neo-Classical exterior of the
Choral Synagogue
u Mayakovsky
Museum
Музей-квартира ВВ
Маяковского
Muzey-kvartira VV
Mayakovskovo
Lubyanskiy proezd 3/6. Map 3 B5.
Tel (495) 621 9387. Open 10am–6pm
Fri–Tue, 1–9pm Thu. Closed last Fri
of the month. q Lubyanka.
&7
Vladimir Mayakovsky, poet,
iconoclast, exhibitionist and
consummate self-publicist, was
above all a revolutionary. In his
short but eventful life his poetry,
plays, film scripts and poster art
gave a strident voice to the
R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D  113
The striking Constructivist entrance to the Mayakovsky Museum
Revolution and its vision of Mayakovsky actually lived in this
modernity. The terse and block from 1919 until his death
uncompromising agitprop in 1930: a single room on the
posters he designed fourth floor has been furnished
with Aleksandr to look as
Rodchenko are it would have
a prominent done when
feature of the he moved in.
museum. While living
By nature, in this house,
Mayakovsky Mayakovsky
was both pro- continued his
vocative and Room designed to symbolize long-running
extraordinary, Mayakovsky’s poetic origins love affair with
and this is Lilya Brik, the
brilliantly reflected in this wife of his friend Osip Brik. This
apparently anarchic museum. was also the period in which he
Huge frameworks of metal bars, wrote his best known plays, the
designed in the Constructivist caustic satires The Bed Bug and
style influential in the 1920s, lean Bath House.
at fantastic angles and provide a The last part of the exhibition
backdrop for the other exhibits. deals with Mayakovsky’s suicide
Mayakovsky’s artworks and at the age of 37. On display are
belongings are intermingled: two death masks, one black and
chairs, old boots, typewriters, one white. After his death, Stalin
painted cannon balls, large (see p29) praised Mayakovsky as
posters and photomontages, the most talanted of Soviet
cracked mirrors, sewing poets and continued to use his
machines and manuscripts. work for propaganda purposes.
Vladimir Mayakovsky
Born in Georgia in 1893, Mayakovsky was brought up in Moscow,
where he became involved in the revolutionary movement at the
tender age of 14. Earning his revolutionary honours by being arrested
three times in the space of two years,
he was also drawn to the avant-garde
and in 1912 became a founder of the
Futurist movement by contributing to
its manifesto, A Slap in the Face for Public
Taste. Mayakovsky wholeheartedly
endorsed the Revolution (see pp28–31),
becoming one of its most effective
propagandists, but became increasingly
disillusioned with the straitjacketed
attitudes of Soviet society in the
1920s; this may have contributed to
his suicide in 1930.
114  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
i Lubyanka Square
Лубянская площадь
Lubyanskaya ploshchad
Map 3 B5. q Lubyanka.
Synonymous with terror and
the secret police, the name
Lubyanka struck fear into the
hearts of generations of Soviet
citizens. In 1918, the Cheka
(the forerunners of the KGB),
led by the hated “Iron” Feliks
Dzerzhinskiy, took over what
had been the Rossiya Insurance
Offices at the northern end of
the square.
In the 1930s the building was
extended and the enormous,
underground Lubyanka Prison
added, where the KGB
interrogated, tortured,
imprisoned and killed
hundreds
of thousands of
people. By 1947
the incredible
numbers of those
accused in the course
of Stalin’s rule (see
p29) led to the
building of an
additional wing,
designed by Aleksey
Shchusev (see p47). Feliks Dzerzhinskiy
Despite numerous
changes of name
(and protestations of changes
in ethos), the Russian intel-
ligence services still occupy
the building.
A statue of Dzerzhinskiy
used to stand in the centre of
Lubyanka Square. It was uncer-
emoniously toppled in front
of a cheering crowd, following
the unsuccessful coup against
President Gorbachev in 1991
(see p33). The statue can now
The infamous former headquarters of the KGB on Lubyanka Square
be seen in the Graveyard of
Fallen Monuments (see p137).
With a customary lack of irony,
the Soviet authorities built
Russia’s largest toy store,
Detskiy Mir, now closed,
directly opposite the KGB
headquarters in 1957.
o Chistoprudnyy
Bulvar
Чистопрудньiй бульвар
Chistoprudnyy bulvar
Map 3 C4. q Chistye Prudy.
This road is part of the historic
Boulevard Ring, which was laid
out along the line of the old
Belyy Gorod (White City) wall
after the great fire of 1812 (see
p26). There are
several fine houses
located along
Chistoprudnyy
bulvar. At No. 19a is
the elegant, Classical-
style portico of the
Sovremennik Theatre,
which was built as a
cinema by Roman
Klein in 1914. Just
beyond is the
mansion where
(1877–1926) Sergey Eisenstein,
director of October
and Battleship Potemkin,
lived from 1920 to 1934.
Chistoprudnyy bulvar is part
of the area which used to be
known as Myasnitskaya after
the butchers (myasniki) who
worked here in the 17th
century. The myasniki are still
commemorated in the name
of Myasnitskaya ulitsa, which
runs from Lubyanka Square to
Chistoprudnyy bulvar.
Detail of the fine stone carvings on the
Church of the Archangel Gabriel
Between the carriageways of
Chistoprudnyy bulvar is a large
pond. It was created as a place
for the butchers to dump offal
and other waste products but,
by 1703, the stench and risk of
disease were so bad that the
pond was cleared and renamed
Chistye prudy (Clean Pond).
The beautiful, pale blue
mansion just round the corner,
at No. 22 ulitsa Pokrovka, was
built between 1766 and 1772.
Before the Communist coup in
October 1917, the building
used to be one of the best
male secondary schools in
Moscow, dating from 1861.
p Church of the
Archangel Gabriel
Церковь Aрxaнгeла
Гавриила
Tserkov Arkhangela Gavriila
Arkhangelskiy pereulok 15. Map 3 C4.
q Chistye Prudy. 7 ^
This church was constructed
on the orders of Prince
Aleksandr Menshikov, Peter
the Great’s advisor. With Peter
the Great’s backing, Men-
shikov rose from the position
of lowly pie-seller to be one of
most powerful men in Russia.
It was typical of the flam-
boyant Menshikov that, when
he commissioned the church
from Ivan Zarudniy in 1701,
he instructed the architect to
make it just a little taller than
the Ivan the Great Bell Tower
(see p59), until then the tallest
structure in all of Russia.
Specialist stonemasons from
Yaroslavl and Kostroma and
Italian sculptors worked on
the church, accounting for
the beauty of the stone carvings
and stuccoed festoons. The
wooden spire was capped
by a gilded angel and held an

expensive English clock, which
chimed on the quarter-hour.
However, pious Muscovites
remained unimpressed by the
display of wealth and when
the tower was destroyed by
lightning in 1723 many saw in
it the hand of God. The tower
was rebuilt without the spire in
1773–80. The church was one of
the few to remain open during
the Soviet era and much of its
interior decoration has survived.
Next to the tower is the small
Church of St Fyodor Stratilit,
which was heated in winter
for the benefit of the parish-
ioners. It was built in 1806,
probably by Ivan Yegotov.
a Perlov Tea House
Чай-кофе маrазин
Chay-kofe magazin
Myasnitskaya ulitsa 19. Map 3 B4
Tel (495) 625 4656. Open 9am–
9pm Mon–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat,
10am–7pm Sun. q Chistye Prudy,
Turgenevskaya. ^
This building was originally
designed by Roman Klein
in 1890 for the tea merchant
Sergey Perlov. Five years later
Perlov heard that the official
representative of the Chinese
emperor would be visiting
Moscow. He commissioned
Karl Gippius to redesign the
shop in the hope of receiving
him. The façade is a fanciful
vision of the Orient, including
serpents, dragons and pagoda-
style details. The oriental theme
is followed up inside with
Shelves of tea behind the counter of the
elegant Perlov Tea House
R E D S Q UA R E A N D K I TAY G O R O D
The waiting area inside the luxurious Sandunovskiy Baths
lacquered columns and
counters painted with dragons.
The Chinese official mistakenly
visited Perlov’s nephew, who
was also a tea merchant.
s Convent of
the Nativity
of the Virgin
Рождественский
монастьiрь
Rozhdestvenskiy monastyr
Ulitsa Rozhdestvenka 20. Map 3 A4.
Tel (495) 621 3986. Open 6am–
8pm daily. q Kuznetskiy Most,
Trubnaya. ^
Converted to housing in Soviet
times, this small cluster of
buildings was neglected until
1991, when it was returned to
the Russian Orthodox Church.
Founded in 1386 by Princess
Maria Serpukhovskiy, daughter-
in-law of Ivan I (see p20), the
convent was one of a ring of
fortified monasteries
constructed around Moscow.
The beautiful cathedral,
commissioned between 1501
and 1505 by Tsar Ivan III (see
p20), has tiers of kokoshniki
gables (see p46) and a cupola.
The small Church of St John
of Zlatoust, with five domes,
has also survived, along with
a short section of the original
brick ramparts. The yellow,
tiered bell tower was designed
by Nikolay Kozlovskiy in 1835.
 115
d Sandunovskiy
Baths
Сандуновские бани
Sandunovskie bani
Neglinnaya ulitsa 14, building 3–7.
Map 3 A4. Tel (495) 625 4631.
Open 8am–10pm daily (last
adm 8pm). q Kuznetskiy Most,
Trubnaya. & ^
∑ sanduny.ru
The original Sandunovskiy
Baths were built for actor
Sila Sandunov in 1808. In 1895
they were replaced by this
building designed by Boris
Freidenberg and with a deco-
rative Beaux Arts façade.
The main entrance is
through an ornate archway,
decorated with sculptures
of nymphs on horse-back,
emerging from the sea
and using triton shells
as trumpets.
However, it is the sumptuous
interiors, decorated in a
flamboyant mix of Baroque,
Gothic and Moorish styles,
that make the baths famous.
The Alhambra Palace in Spain
was one of the sources of
inspiration for the ornate
decoration. The baths can
accommodate up to 2,000
customers a day. The best,
most expensive, rooms are
located on the first floor.
Here patrons can still buy
birch twigs to beat themselves
with, an essential part of a
Russian steam bath.
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  117

ZAMOSKVORECHE
First settled in the 13th century, Zamoskvoreche varying states of repair, and the fact that the
(literally “beyond the Moscow river”) acted area was almost untouched by the replanning
as an outpost against the Mongols. Its main of the 1930s, give it a more old-fashioned
road, Bolshaya Ordynka, was the route to atmosphere than the centre, which is
the Orda, or Golden Horde, the Mongol dominated by massive Soviet architecture.
headquarters on the Volga river. Later, under In the 19th century wealthy merchants
Ivan the Terrible, the Streltsy (royal guard) settled here, many of whom, such as Aleksey
was stationed here. Artisans serving the Bakhrushin and Pavel Tretyakov, were patrons
court also moved in, living in areas according of the arts. Based on its founder’s acquisitions,
to their trades, each of which sponsored a the Tretyakov Gallery is the nation’s most
church. These historic churches, now in important collection of Russian art.

Sights at a Glance
Churches and Convents Museums and Galleries Restaurants see p188
2 Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi 1 Tretyakov Gallery pp120–23 1 Aldebaran
3 Church of the Consolation 8 Tropinin Museum 2 Bottlebar
of All Sorrows 9 Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 3 Brix
4 Church of St Clement Streets 4 Correa’s
5 Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhy 5 Dorian Gray
0 Sophia Embankment
6 Church of St Catherine 6 Funky Lab
7 Convent of SS Martha and Mary 7 Karavaevi
8 Marukame
Bolshoi Moskvoretskiy
Most 9 Oblomov
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See also Street Finder map 7 YA У

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A 14th-century Russian icon on display at the Tretyakov Gallery For keys to symbols see back flap
118  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa

An old-fashioned atmosphere still prevails in the area
around Pyatnitskaya ulitsa. The well-established
streets are lined with attractive 19th-century churches
and imposing Neo-Classical mansions. The busiest part
of the district is the area around Tretyakovskaya metro.
The market stalls on the station forecourt spill over
onto Klimentovskiy pereulok, and nearby Pyatnitskaya
ulitsa is the main shopping street. A short walk to the Vodootvodnyy Canal
west is the stunning Tretyakov Gallery. To the north,
L
the area is bordered by the Vodootvodnyy canal, NA
KA
which was built in 1783–6 to prevent the regular YY
spring flooding of the Moskva river. DN YA
V O NA
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KI
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With its five onion domes and

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lavish limestone ornamentation

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this magnificent church is a fine

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example of the style known as

Moscow Baroque (see p46).
LO
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The Demidov House was

built in 1789–91 by a family
of well-known industrialists.

1 . Tretyakov Gallery 4 Church of the Consolation

The world’s largest collection of of all Sorrows
Russian art is housed here. Taken Two of Moscow’s best-known
down in the Soviet era, the statue architects contributed to this much-
of Pavel Tretyakov (see p122) has loved church. Vasiliy Bazhenov
now been restored to its rightful designed the bell tower and Osip
place in front of the gallery. Bove (see p47) the rotunda.
 ZAMOSKVORECHE  119

Church of St John the Baptist The Church of SS

has a distinctive green bell tower Michael and Fyodor,
and was built in the 18th century. dating from the late 17th
century, is named after
two martyrs killed by
Kremlin
Mongols when they
refused to renounce
Christianity. ZAMOSKVORECHE

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 7

Cultural Centre of
Pan Slavism
U L I T S A B O L S H AYA O R D

P YA
TNI
TSK
AYA

Novokuznetskaya Metro
Station, designed by Ivan
ULI

Taranov and Natalia Bykova,

TSA

was opened in 1943 at the

YNKA

height of World War II, and

the design of the interior is
based on military subjects.

Key
Suggested route

KLIMENTOVSKIY PEREULOK

Tretyakovskaya

Small shops on
Klimentovskiy pereulok
sell groceries, magazines,
perfumes and other goods.

The Dolgov House has 5 Church of St Clement

an elaborately decorated
Neo-Classical exterior.
This fine town house
was built in the 1770s
for a wealthy merchant
named Dolgov, possibly
by his son-in-law, Vasiliy
Bazhenov (see p46).
Building began on this splendid
Baroque church in 1720 and
continued in phases over the
next few decades: in 1756–8
a rectory and belfry were added.
The church has four black, star-
spangled domes and a central
golden dome.
For keys to symbols see back flap
120  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

1 Tretyakov Gallery Stairs down to

Третьяковская галерея ground floor
Tretyakovskaya galereya

The Tretyakov Gallery was founded in 1856 by the wealthy merchant Pavel Tretyakov.
He presented his private museum of Russian art to the city in 1892. His brother Sergey
also donated a number of works and the gallery’s collection has been expanding
ever since. Today the Tretyakov has the largest collection of Russian art in the
world. The building has a striking façade, designed by artist Viktor Vasnetsov,
with a bas-relief of St George and the dragon at its centre. Many of the early
20th-century works from the collection are now housed in the Tretyakov on
Krymsky Val, also known as the New Tretyakov (see p137).

Portraits by Ivan Kramskoy (see p122)

34
First floor

33
18

32
17

21

19

31
22
16

20

24
15

30
12

The Rooks Have Come

25
14

(1871)
23

This bleak winter scene by

10

2
13

Aleksey Savrasov contains

26
11

a message of hope: rooks

are taken by Russians as a
9

sign of the coming spring.

8

3
7

44

45
6

46

The Appearance
of Christ to the People
47

is by the 19th-century
Romantic artist, Aleksandr
Ivanov (see p123).
Stairs from Portraits by Ilya
Portrait of Arseny Tropinin, basement Repin (see p122)
the Artist’s Son (c.1818)
This portrait was painted by the
renowned artist Vasiliy Tropinin.
He was a serf for 47 years before
gaining his freedom and finding
commercial success.

Gallery Guide
The gallery has 62 rooms on two main floors. On entering
the museum, visitors first descend to the basement ticket
office, then head straight up to the first floor. Paintings are
hung in chronological order in rooms 1–48, while rooms
49–54 display drawings and engravings. Russian jewellery
is housed on the ground floor in room 55, while rooms
56–62 contain icons and jewellery.
. Demon Seated (1890) This is one of
several paintings by Mikhail Vrubel, who
adopted a new, strikingly modern style.
They are inspired by Mikhail Lermontov’s
Symbolist poem, The Demon (see p84),
with which Vrubel became obsessed.
 ZAMOSKVORECHE  121

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Lavrushinskiy pereulok 10.
Map 7 A3. Tel (495) 951 1362.
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Sat &
Sun, 10am–9pm Thu & Fri. &
789=0-
∑ tretyakov.ru

Transport
q Tretyakovskaya. @ 6, K, 25.
v 1, 4, 8, 33, 62.
Religious Procession in Kursk Province (1881–3)
Ilya Repin painted this to show the different attitudes of those
in the procession to the icon being carried at the head of it.
The Morning of the
Execution of the
Ground floor Streltsy (1881) is by
Vasiliy Surikov, who
specialized in using
historical subjects to
illustrate contemp-
orary social issues.
29

. The Trinity (1420s)

39
28

This beautiful icon was

painted by Andrey Rublev
27

38
41

(see p63) for the Trinity

Monastery of St Sergius
36
37

(see pp164–7), where he

61
42

had been a novice monk.

40

35

He dedicated it to the
60

monastery’s founder,
43

62

St Sergius of Radonezh.
54
55

53

56

59
52

57
51

58

Stairs from first floor

50
49

Stairs down to basement

Exit
48

Main entrance leading to basement for

tickets, information, toilets and cloakrooms

Russian
jewellery
Key
18th and early 19th centuries
Main Façade Second half of the 19th century
The gallery’s façade was Late 19th and early 20th centuries
designed in 1902–04 by Viktor
Drawings and watercolours of the
Vasnetsov. An example of the 18th to 20th centuries
Russian-Revival style (see p47),
Icons and jewellery
it has a frieze inspired by
medieval manuscripts. Non-exhibition space
122  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Tretyakov Gallery Pavel Tretyakov

Although the gallery’s collection began with the paintings Pavel Tretyakov began
donated by Pavel Tretyakov, it continued to expand after collecting Russian art in 1856
and was particularly interested
the Revolution as numerous private collections were in works by the Wanderers
nationalized by the Soviet regime. There are currently more (peredvizhniki). His collection
than 160,000 Russian works in the collection. Paintings from grew and in 1892 he donated
after the Revolution – mainly Socialist-Realist works – are now it to the city of Moscow. His
home was opened as a gallery
exhibited in the New Tretyakov Gallery (see p137), while the and, much extended, still
main gallery displays Russian art ranging from the icons of houses the collection today.
the medieval period to early 20th-century paintings. Pavel Tretyakov was director
of the gallery for the last
6 years of his life.
Second Half of the
19th Century
The art of this period was
dominated by Realism. In
1870 a group of artists founded
the Association of Travelling
Art Exhibitions. Its members,
who became known as the
Wanderers (peredvizhniki),
began to produce “socially
useful art” highlighting
injustices and inequalities. Portrait of Pavel Tretyakov (1876),
One of the leaders of the by Ivan Kramskoy
Portrait of Countess Ursula Mniszek movement was Vasiliy Perov
(1782) by Dmitriy Levitskiy (1834–82) whose satirical Tea-
drinking in Mytishchi (1862) Landscapes were popular
exposes hypocrisy among the subjects for the Wanderers and
18th and Early 19th clergy. Another Wanderer was the gallery’s many examples
Centuries Vasiliy Surikov (1848–1916), include Vasiliy Polenov’s (1844–
Painting in Russia was exclu- whose picture of The Morning 1927) A Moscow Courtyard (1878).
sively religious in character of the Execution of the Streltsy A number of works by Ilya
for over 600 years. However, (1881) instils new realism Repin (1844–1930), the most
a profound transformation into a dramatic episode of versatile of the Wanderers, are
occurred in the 18th century as Russian history. Ivan Kramskoy, on display. They include the
secular art from Europe began the head of the group, aimed enormous canvases Religious
to influence Russian artists. to portray the moral character Procession in Kursk Province
Portrait painting came into its of his subjects in paintings (1881–3); They Did Not Expect Him
own with technically accom- such as Portrait of Pavel (1884–8) and Ivan the Terrible and
plished canvases by artists such Tretyakov. his Son Ivan on 16 November, 1581,
as Vladimir Borovikovskiy (1757–
1825), Fyodor Rokotov (c.1735–
1808) and Dmitriy Levitskiy
(1735–1822), whose Portrait of
Countess Ursula Mniszek (1782)
is among those in the gallery.
The Romantic movement is
represented in the collection by
such pictures as Vasiliy Tropinin’s
(1780–1857) refined but
sentimental portrait of his son
and Orest Kiprenskiy’s (1782–
1836) famous Portrait of the Poet
Alexander Pushkin (1827). Several
of Aleksandr Ivanov’s (1806–58)
canvases are also displayed,
including his outstanding
The Appearance of Christ to
the People. Begun in 1837,
it took 20 years to finish. Ivan the Terrible and his Son Ivan on 16 November, 1581 (1885), by Ilya Repin

Above the Eternal Peace (1894), painted by Isaak Levitan
and striking portraits of Repin’s
friends and contemporaries.
Vasiliy Vereschagin (1842–1904),
whose paintings are on display
in room 27, was close to the
Wanderers in the character of
his work, which reflected his
desire to achieve an objective
creation of reality. One of
Vereschagin’s most famous
works is Apotheosis of War
(1871), depicting a pyramid of
skulls with a plundered city in
the distance. It was ironically
dedicated to “all the great
conquerors of the past, present
and future”. He was revolu-
tionary in his approach to
exhibitions, being the first artist
in Russia to present his work
in specially prepared environ-
ments, with darkened halls
and black walls enhancing
the mood of his paintings.
Late 19th and Early
20th Centuries
During the 1890s, the social
ideals that inspired the
Wanderers no longer appealed
to a new generation of artists.
Instead they rallied behind a
call for “art for art’s sake”.
The innovative artist Mikhail
Vrubel (1856–1910) was influ-
enced by the poetry of the
Russian Symbolists. Many of
his dark works, such as Demon
Seated (1890), also reflect his
troubled mental state.
French painting had a huge
impact on this and subsequent
generations of artists. This
influence can be seen in the
Impressionist work Paris,
ZAMOSKVORECHE
Boulevard des Capucines, painted
in 1911 by Konstantin Korovin.
The style of Valentin Serov’s
(1865–1911) early paintings was
also close to Impressionism. His
Girl with Peaches (1887) (see p49)
is a portrait of the daughter of
art patron Savva Mamontov.
In the decade leading up to
World War I, Moscow was the
centre of Russia’s avant-garde
movement, receptive to devel-
opments from abroad, such as
Cubism and Futurism, as well as
taking ideas from indigenous
folk art, which inspired
Primitivism. Primitivist works
feature bold shapes and bright
colours. Staro Basmannaya –
Board No. 1 (1916) by Vladimir
Tatlin (1885–1953) and Bathing
Horses (1911) by Natalya
Goncharova (1881–1962) are
among the works in this style.
The Transfiguration (c.1403), painted by a follower of
Theophanes the Greek
 123
Drawings and
Watercolours
The gallery owns a substantial
collection of sketches,
lithographs and watercolours
by artists from the 18th to 20th
centuries but, to avoid exhibits
being damaged by exposure to
light, only a small proportion
are on show at any time.
Among the watercolours
are a delightful equestrian
portrait by Karl Bryullov
(1799–1852) and some
preparatory biblical sketches by
Aleksandr Ivanov. Landscapes
by Isaak Levitan (1860–1900)
and Ivan Shishkin (1832–98)
contrast with delicate pencil
portraits by artists as diverse
as Ilya Repin, Valentin Serov
and Konstantin Somov.
Icons and Jewellery
A fine collection of icons
dating from the 12th to the
19th centuries is housed in
the Tretyakov. One of the
most revered icons is the
12th-century Virgin of
Vladimir (see p63), which
originated in Byzantium.
The palette and style of
Russian icon painting was
derived from the Byzantine
masters. However, masters
such as Andrei Rublev and
Daniil Chyomy raised
iconography to new heights
by modifying the style and
lightening their palettes.
A typical example is The
Transfiguration (early
1400s) by a follower of
Theophanes the Greek
(see p63). It depicts
Christ emitting a divine
light with the apostles
prostrate at his feet.
Andrey Rublev’s
stunning icon The
Trinity dates from
around 1425–7.
Alongside it are
icons by other
masters of the Moscow
school (see p63).
Also on the ground
floor is a room devoted
to Russian jewellery
from the 13th to the
20th centuries.
124  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
2 Church of the
Resurrection in
Kadashi
Храм Воскресения в
Кадашах
Khram Voskreseniya v
Kadashakh
2-oy Kadashevskiy pereulok 7.
Map 7 B3. q Tretyakovskaya.
Open 8am–7pm daily. 8 English
(book in advance on (495) 953 2291).
This five-domed church is
among the most striking
examples of Moscow Baroque
(see p46) and is thought to have
been designed by Sergey
Turchaninov, favourite architect
of Patriarch Nikon (see pp59).
The small group of buildings
around it also includes a
refectory and tiered bell tower.
It was paid for by a wealthy
guild of weavers who had
moved into the street by the
17th century. Before that an
earlier church stood here, in
what was at that time the
district of Kadeshevo, hence
the name that survives today.
The bell tower and domes of the Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi
The church was built around
1687, and the slender, tapering
bell tower added in the 1690s.
Apart from the five gilded onion
domes, the most notable
features are the tiers of lace-like
limestone balustrades just below
the drums supporting the
domes. The church also houses
an art restoration workshop and
two small museums.
3 Church of the
Consolation of
All Sorrows
Церковь Богоматери Всех
Скорбящих Радость
Tserkov Bogomateri Vsekh
Skorbyashchikh Radost
Ulitsa Bolshaya Ordynka 20. Map 7 B3.
q Tretyakovskaya. Open 7am–8pm
daily.
Both the church of the
Consolation of All Sorrows
and the Neo-Classical yellow
mansion opposite belonged to
the Dolgovs, a wealthy merchant
family. After completion of their
The Empire-style Church of the Consolation
of All Sorrows
house in the 1770s, they
commissioned the church
from Vasiliy Bazhenov (see p46),
a relation by marriage. He first
built a new belfry and refectory,
which are among the few
surviving buildings in Moscow
by this talented architect, and
then replaced the existing
medieval church in 1783–91. It
was finished by the Kumanins,
another merchant family.
That church, however, was
destroyed in the great fire of
1812 (see p26). Another new
one was designed by Osip
Bove (see p47), who was the
architect in charge of Moscow’s
reconstruction after the fire.
His Empire-style rotunda and
dome were finished in 1833.
The interior is unusual in
an Orthodox church due to its
lavish Empire-style colonnade,
theatrical iconostasis and exu-
berant sculpted angels. On dis-
play in the church’s left aisle,
originally dedicated to the
Transfiguration, is the Icon of
Our Lady of Consolation of
All Sorrows. It is said to have
miraculously cured the ailing
sister of Patriarch Joachim in
the 17th century.
4 Church of
St Clement
Церковь Святого
Климента
Tserkov Svyatovo Klimenta
Klimentovskiy pereulok 7. Map 7 B3.
q Tretyakovskaya. Open 10am–
6pm daily.
This imposing, red-painted
18th-century church, named
after the Roman Catholic

The remarkably decorated, 17th-century Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhy
Pope St Clement, is now in
a sadly decayed state. In
1756–8 the present refectory
and belfry were built onto a
church dating from the
1720s. This was pulled down
in the 1760s when a new
church was commissioned.
The result is an outstanding
example of late Moscow
Baroque domes of the Church of St Clement,
completed in 1774
Baroque. The design is
thought to have been con-
ceived by the Italian archi-
tect Pietro Antonio Trezzini.
The building of the church
was completed by 1774.
The red and white façade
is crowned by four black
domes with golden stars
surrounding a fifth, golden,
cupola. In the Soviet era, the
Lenin State Library stored its
books here, but services
resumed in 2005.
5 Church of
St Nicholas in
Pyzhy
Церковь Николая в Пыжах
Tserkov Nikolaya v Pyzhakh
Ulitsa Bolshaya Ordynka 27a/8.
Map 7 B3. q Tretyakovskaya.
Open 7:30am–8pm daily. ^
Small crowns, as well as
the traditional crosses,
decorate the silver domes of
this splendid church. It was
ZAMOSVORECHE  125
constructed between 1670
and 72 in the area of the city
once inhabited by the Streltsy,
the royal guard, who provided
the funds for it. Some of these
men were later executed by
Peter the Great for their role
in the 1682 Streltsy Rebellion
(see p24). Funds were, in
particular, generously
lavished on the exterior
decoration, which includes
remarkable fretted cornices.
The church’s slender, tiered
bell tower is one of the
finest in the city, whilst the
iconostasis contains some
original icons as well as
copies of more famous ones.
6 Church of
St Catherine
Церковь Екатерины
Tserkov Yekateriny
Ulitsa Bolshaya Ordynka 60/2.
Map 7 B3. q Tretyakovskaya.
Open 10am–6pm daily.
Originally a wooden church
built by the cosmetic
merchants’ guild in the 16th
century, Catherine the Great
commissioned the architect
Karl Blank to redesign and
rebuild the church in the
1760s. It is dedicated to St
Catherine of Alexandria who
was beheaded in the 4th
century on the orders of the
Roman emperor Maximian
for refusing to renounce her
Christian faith.
The distinct architecture
of the Church of St Catherine
combines certain elements
of Moscow Baroque and
Rococo. Of interest are the
ornate metal railings outside,
which are superb and unique
examples of 18th-century
metalwork. Originally, they
were located in the Kremlin
between the Cathedral of
the Archangel Michael and
the Patriarchal Palace.
In 1931 the church was
closed, its bell tower dismantled
and almost all the icons
(painted by Levitsky and
Vasilevsky) were removed. It
underwent further restoration
in the 1990s and 2000s to
return it to its former glory.
126  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

work after her 8 Tropinin Museum

The Convent of SS Martha and Mary, founded in 1908 and
designed by Aleksey Shchusev
7 Convent of SS
Martha and Mary
Марфо-Мариинская
обитель
Marfo-Mariinskaya obitel
Ulitsa Bolshaya Ordynka 34.
Map 7 B4. Tel (495) 951 1139.
q Tretyakovskaya, Polyanka.
Open 8am–8pm daily.
A low archway leads from
the street to this secluded
compound, containing what
appear at first glance to be
medieval buildings. In fact
they date from 1908–12 and
were designed by Aleksey
Shchusev (see p47).
The convent was conceived
to house a dispensary, a clinic,
a small women’s hospital and a
school. It was run by the Order
of the Sisters of Charity which
was founded by the Grand
Duchess Yelizaveta Fyodorovna, restoring icons for a number
sister-in-law of Tsar Nicholas II.
She had turned to charitable
husband, Grand
Prince Sergei (Tsar
Nicholas II’s uncle),
was assassinated
by a terrorist bomb
in the troubled
year of 1905 (see
p28). Yelizaveta
also met a violent
death: the day after
the shooting of
Tsar Nicholas II and
his family in 1918,
the Bolsheviks
pushed her down
a mine shaft with
further members
of the royal family.
When designing
the Church of the
Intercession, the
convent’s main
building, Shchusev
carried out considerable
research into Russian religious
architecture, particularly that
of the Pskov and Novgorod
schools (see p46). Shchusev’s
ingenious design juxtaposed
a highly traditional style with
Style-Moderne features such
as boldly pointed gables,
limestone carvings of mythical
creatures and Slavonic script
on the outer walls.
The artist Mikhail Nesterov, a
protegé of industrialist and art
patron Savva Mamontov (see
p162), was commissioned to
design and paint the frescoes
in the interior of the church. He
also designed the pale grey
and white habits of the nuns.
After the Revolution the Order
of the Sisters of Charity was
suppressed and the church
was used as a workshop for
of years. The nuns have now
returned to staff the clinic.
Музей ВА Тропинина
Muzey VA Tropinina
Shchetininskiy pereulok 10. Map 7 B4.
Tel (495) 959 1103. q Dobryninskaya,
Polyanka. Open 1–8pm Thu,
10am–6pm Fri–Mon. Closed last Mon
of the month. & ^ 7
A highly talented portrait artist,
Vasiliy Tropinin executed a
staggering 3,000 paintings
in his life. As well as painting
figures in high society, he is
noted as one of the first Russian
artists to depict working people.
Works spanning his career are
displayed in this attractive
museum set in a blue and
white Neo-Classical house. The
furnishings and ornaments are
from Tropinin’s time and are
mostly in Empire style.
The museum’s collection is
based on works gathered by
Feliks Vishnevskiy (1902–78).
Having been a supporter of
the Revolution, he was able to
collect during the Soviet period
when paintings were relatively
cheap. In addition to Tropinin’s
oil portraits, there are works by
Girl in Ukrainian Dress painted by
Vasiliy Tropinin

Vasiliy Tropinin (1776–1857)

Though born a serf in Karpovo near Novgorod, Vasiliy Tropinin’s prodigious
talent was recognized at an early age. He was sent to the St Petersburg
Academy of Arts in 1798, but was withdrawn by his master and brought
back to work as an interior decorator, pastry-cook and footman on his
estates. Tropinin and his wife gained their freedom in 1823 and moved to
Moscow, where Tropinin became a professional portrait artist. Unlike many
other painters of the time, he did not limit himself to painting members
of the aristocracy. Instead, his portraits depicted a cross-section of society,
from peasants to nobles.

Some of the Empire-style furnishings in the Tropinin Museum
some of his contemporaries,
including Orest Kiprenskiy and
Dmitriy Levitskiy. Like Tropinin,
they were students at the St
Petersburg Academy of Arts.
9 Bakhrushin
Theatre Museum
Театральный музей имени
А.А. Бахрушина
Teatralnyy muzey imeni AA
Bakhrushina
Ulitsa Bakhrushina 31/12. Map 7 C5.
Tel (495) 953 4470. q Paveletskaya.
Open noon–7pm Wed–Mon (last
ticket 6pm). Closed last Mon of the
month. & ^ 8 English (book in
advance).
Founded in 1894 by Aleksey
Bakhrushin, a merchant and
patron of the arts, this museum
contains probably the most
important collection of theatre
memorabilia in Russia. Spread
over two floors, the exhibits
Set design by Michel Fokine, on show in the Bakhrushin Theatre Museum
ZAMOSKVORECHE
range from sets and costumes
to theatre tickets, programmes,
advertisements and signed
photographs.
The permanent exhibition
begins in the study, where
visitors can peruse a selection
of Bakhrushin’s personal
belongings, as well as
photographs and paintings
depicting family life. From
here, stairs lead down into
the basement, which hosts
temporary exhibitions on a
variety of themes related to
acting and the theatre.
Exhibits on 19th-century
theatre include costumes and
sets from the Ballets Russes.
This famous company, formed
by Sergey Diaghilev in 1909,
revolutionized ballet. The sets
include some designed by
Michel Fokine, the company’s
inspired choreographer. A pair
of ballet shoes belonging to
Marie Taglioni, the renowned
 127
Italian-Swedish dancer who
rose to fame following her
father’s creation of La Sylphide
is also on show.
The room on 20th-century
avant-garde theatre includes
stage models created for out-
standing directors Konstantin
Stanislavskiy (see p95) and
Vsevolod Meyerhold (see p94).
View of the Kremlin from the Sophia
Embankment
0 Sophia
Embankment
Софийская набережная
Sofiyskaya naberezhnaya
Map 7 A2. q Kropotkinskaya,
Borovitskaya, Novokuznetskaya.
Situated opposite the Kremlin,
on the southern bank of
the Moskva river, the Sophia
Embankment stretches from
the Bolshoi Kamennyy most
(Great Stone bridge) to the
Bolshoi Moskvoretskiy most
(Great Moscow river bridge).
The embankment was built
up to its current height at the
end of the 18th century and
was greatly improved in 1836.
It offers spectacular views
over the Kremlin and the city.
Novgorodians settled on the
river bank in the 14th century
and built the original Church of
St Sophia. The present church
dates from the mid-17th
century. Aleksandr Kaminskiy
added the bell tower in 1862.
The mansion at No. 14 was
designed by Vasiliy Zalesskiy
in 1893 for a sugar baron and is
now the British ambassador’s
residence. The interiors are by
Fyodor Shekhtel (see p47).
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  129

FURTHER AFIELD
Moscow’s suburbs are generally rather bleak, Moscow are often surprised at the beauty
but they conceal a surprising number of and variety of its green spaces. Gorky,
attractions, all accessible by metro. To the Izmaylovo and Victory parks are the perfect
south of the centre lies a number of fortified places in which to relax, while Sparrow Hills
monasteries, built to defend the city against offers fantastic views. The city’s best-kept
the Mongols and the Poles. The most secrets, however, are the grand estates away
spectacular of them is Novodevichiy Convent, from the centre in what was formerly
a serene 16th-century sanctuary with a countryside. There the Sheremetev family
glorious cathedral, but the Donskoy built two elegant Neo-Classical summer
Monastery is also well worth a visit. The residences: Kuskovo and Ostankino. Both have
Danilovskiy Monastery, with its handsome beautifully preserved gardens and palaces
cathedral, is the oldest in the city. Visitors to full of fine paintings and period furnishings.

Sights at a Glance
Churches, Convents and Palaces Parks and Open Spaces
Monasteries y Kuskovo pp144–5 3 Victory Park
1 Church of the Intercession in Fili a Ostankino Palace 4 Sparrow Hills
6 Novodevichiy Convent pp132–3 Museums and Galleries 5 Gorky Park
8 Church of St Nicholas of the i Izmaylovo Park
7 Tolstoy House-Museum
Weavers o Komsomolskaya Ploshchad
9 Tretyakov on Krymsky Val
0 Church of St John the Warrior s All-Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)
e Kolomenskoe pp140–41
q Donskoy Monastery
p Vasnetsov House-Museum
w Danilovskiy Monastery
t Krutitskoe Mission Historic Buildings
u Monastery of the Saviour and 2 White House
Andronicus r Tsaritsyno

Sheremetevo
Airport M
Sviblovo KA
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Kurskiy Entu
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M
Kutu
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Paveletskiy

Mozhyskiy Volgo 0 kilometres 5

grads
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Kanatchikovo t
Ramenki
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e
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Zyablikovo Motorway
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Major road
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Domodedovo
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The reconstructed wooden palace with its fairy-tale-like roofs in Kolomenskoe estate For keys to symbols see back flap
130  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
1 Church of the
Intercession in Fili
Церковь Покрова в Филях
Tserkov Pokrova v Filyakh
Ulitsa Novozavodskaya 6. Tel (499) 148
4552. q Fili. Open 8am–5pm Thu–
Mon (May–Oct: upper church only).
&8
This stunning church was
commissioned by an uncle
of Peter the Great, Prince
Lev Naryshkin, and is in the
style known as Moscow, or
Naryshkin, Baroque (see p46).
Built by an unknown architect
between 1690 and 1693, it is
an extraordinary tiered structure
of red brick, with lace-like
ornamentation and pilasters
of white stone.
Russian churches often com-
prise two buildings: a grand,
unheated one for summer, and
a smaller, simpler one that can
be heated easily in winter.
Here, the winter church at
ground level has changing
displays of religious art. In
front of it a double staircase
rises to a terrace surrounding
the upper summer church.
This staircase would once
have provided the setting for
processions. Inside, there is an
iconostasis, mainly the work
of the 17th-century painter
Karp Zolotarev, and a carved gilt
pew used by Peter the Great.
The elegant Church of the Intercession in Fili, the city’s House when Yeltsin
best example of Moscow Baroque
Gilded crest on the clock tower of the
White House
2 White House
Белый дом
Belyy dom
Krasnopresnenskaya naberezhnaya 2.
Map 1 B5. q Krasnopresnenskaya.
Closed to public.
A marble-clad building with
a gilded clock tower, the White
House is still a “must-see” for
tourists interested in recent
political history.
Once the seat of the Russian
Federation’s parliament, it first
claimed the world’s attention
in August 1991 when it was
the focus of resistance to the
Communist hardliners’ coup
against Mikhail Gorbachev, the
president of the Soviet Union.
The rebels detained Gorbachev
at his Black Sea villa, where he
was holidaying at the time, so it
was Boris Yeltsin, the president
of the smaller Russian
Federation, who led the
opposition to the coup. The
world watched as
he passed through
the lines of tanks
surrounding the White
House without anyone
daring to arrest him.
Then he climbed onto
a tank to proclaim: “You
can build a throne of
bayonets, but you
cannot sit on it for long”.
The coup failed,
and the victory of Yeltsin
and his supporters was
soon followed by the
break-up of the Soviet
Union and the end of
Communist rule.
However, in
September 1993,
a reversal of roles
occurred at the White
became the besieger.
Hundreds of deputies locked
themselves into it in protest
when Yeltsin summarily
suspended parliament over
its increasing opposition to
his new draft constitution.
The siege ended after
2 weeks when army tanks
bombarded the deputies
into submission.
The charred building
was quickly repaired, but
never regained its former
significance; today the
Russian parliament occupies
a building on ulitsa Okhotnyy
ryad (see p88), and the
presidential offices are in
the Kremlin (see pp54–69).
The Triumphal Arch, celebrating Napoleon’s
defeat in the 1812 war
3 Victory Park
Парк победы
Park pobedy
Kutuzovskiy prospekt.
q Kutuzovskaya. Museum of the
Great Patriotic War: Tel (499) 148
5550. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Last Thu of the month. 7
8 Borodino Panorama Museum:
Tel (499) 148 1927. Open 10am–6pm
Sat–Thu. & 8
Commemorating victory in the
Great Patriotic War, the Russian
name for World War II),
Victory Park was originally
intended to have a vast
monument to Mother Russia
at its centre. After the end of
Communist rule, plans were
scaled down and the park was
finally completed in 1995, in
time for the 50th anniversary
of the end of the war.
The park is formally laid out,
with straight alleys dividing the

The Stalinist-Gothic skyscraper of the Moscow State University
sparsely treed grass. The
main, fountain-lined avenue
leads from Kutuzovskiy
prospekt to the central Nike
Monument, a towering, 142-m
(466-ft) obelisk designed by
Zurab Tsereteli to honour the
Greek goddess of victory.
Behind the monument is
the domed, semicircular
Museum of the Great Patriotic
War. The dioramas, models,
maps and weapons on show
give an informative picture
of the war as experienced by
the Russians.
Just to the side of the central
avenue is the simple Church
of St George the Victorious,
built in 1995, probably the
first to be built in Russia after
the Revolution. Next to it is
a monument to war victims.
East along Kutuzovskiy
prospekt are two large-scale
memorials to the war of 1812
(see pp25–7). Moscow’s final
deliverance from the French
is celebrated by the grand
Triumphal Arch. It was designed
by Osip Bove (see p47), with
sculptures of Russian and Clas-
sical warriors by Ivan Vitali and
Ivan Timofeev. Originally built
on Tverskaya ulitsa in 1834, the
arch was dismantled in the
1930s during street-widening.
The sculptures were preserved
and in 1968 the arch was rebuilt
at its present site.
Further along the street, at
No. 38, is the circular Borodino
Panorama Museum, which
contains a vast painting, 115-m
(377-ft) long and 14-m (46-ft)
high. It was created by Franz
Roubaud in 1912 to mark the
centenary of the battle between
Russian forces and Napoleon’s
army at Borodino (see pp160–61).
4 Sparrow Hills
Воробьёвы горы
Vorobevy gory
q Universitet.
The summit of this
wooded ridge offers
unsurpassed views
across the city. There is
an observation point
on ulitsa Kosygina and
newly-wed couples
traditionally come
here to have their
photograph taken Plaque at the entrance a 10,000-seat
against the panorama.
It is also a favourite
pitch for a large number
of souvenir sellers.
The hills are dominated by
the Moscow State University
(MGU) building commissioned However, because of the tense
by Stalin, designed by Lev
Rudnev and completed in
1953. At 36 floors high it is
the tallest of the seven
Stalinist-Gothic “wedding-
cakes” (see p47).
The small, green-domed
Church of the Trinity (1811)
can also be seen close by, to
the left of the observation
platform. There are also a
couple of long, but somewhat
rickety, ski jumps on the hills.
On prospekt Vernadskovo, on
the southeast edge of the hills, is Outdoor ice-skating in Gorky Park, a popular
the Palace of Youth and Creative
FURTHER AFIELD  131
Work, a studio complex built for
the Communist youth organi-
zation. Also on this street are
the silver-roofed New Moscow
Circus (see p198) built in 1971,
and the Nataliya Sats Children’s
Musical Theatre (see p199).
5 Gorky Park
Парк культуры и отдыха
имени М. Горькоrо
Park Kultury i otdykha imeni
M. Gorkovo
Krymskiy val 9. Map 6 E4. q Park
Kultury, Oktyabrskaya. Tel (495) 237
0707. Open 24 hours daily. & 7 -
Moscow’s most famous park is
named in honour of the writer
Maxim Gorky and extends for
more than 120 ha (297 acres)
along the banks of the Moskva
river. Opened in 1928 as the
Park of Culture and Rest, it
incorporates the Golitsyn
Gardens, laid out by Matvey
Kazakov (see p46) in the late
18th century, and a 19th-
century pleasure park. During
the Soviet era, loud-
speakers were used
to deliver speeches
by Communist leaders
across the park.
Today the highlights
include fairground
rides, woodland
walks, boating lakes,
to Gorky Park outdoor theatre
and, in the winter
months, an ice rink.
The park was immortalized
in the opening scenes of
Michael Apted’s film Gorky Park.
political climate of 1983, the
film was actually shot in Finland.
activity in the winter months
132  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

6 Novodevichiy Convent
Новодевичий монастырь
Novodevichiy monastyr
Probably the most beautiful of the semicircle of fortified religious institutions to the
south of Moscow is Novodevichiy Convent, founded by Basil III in 1524 to commemorate
the capture of Smolensk from the Lithuanians. Only the Cathedral of the Virgin of
Smolensk was built at this time. Most of the other buildings were added in the late
17th century by Peter the Great’s half-sister, the Regent Sophia. After Peter deposed
her and reclaimed his throne in 1689 (see p24), he confined her here for the rest
of her life. In 1812 Napoleon’s troops tried to blow up the
convent but, according to a popular story, it
was saved by the
nuns, who snuffed
out the fuses.

Gate Church of the Intercession

It is not known who designed
this church, but it is believed to
have been built in the second
half of the 17th century.

KEY

1 Shoemaker’s Tower
2 Vorobeva Tower
3 Maria’s Chambers were
used by the daughter of Tsar
Alexis Mikhailovich, Maria. Novodevichiy
4 Church of St Ambrose Cemetery
5 The Palace of Irina Gudunova was
home to the widow of Tsar Fyodor I.
6 The Church of the Assumption
and adjoining refectory were built
in the 1680s on the orders of the
0 metres 25
Regent Sophia.
0 yards 25
7 Refectory
8 Setunskaya Tower
9 Faceted Tower
0 Saviour’s Tower
q Nuns’ cells
w This guard house is where the . Cathedral of the
Regent Sophia was imprisoned. Virgin of Smolensk
The oldest building
e Naprudnaya Tower
in the convent is
r Tsaritsa’s Tower the cathedral, built
t St Nicholas’ Tower in 1524. The five-tier
iconostasis, the rich
y Tailor’s Tower
frescoes and the onion
u Hospital domes all date from
the 17th century.
 FURTHER AFIELD  133

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Novodevichiy Cemetery
Many famous Russians are buried in Practical Information
this cemetery. Among the leading Novodevichiy proezd 1. Tel (499)
cultural figures are playwright Anton 246 8526. Open 10am–5pm
Chekhov, writers Nikolai Gogol and Wed–Mon. Closed some public
Mikhail Bulgakov, composers Sergey hols. & 7 grounds only. =
Prokofiev, Aleksandr Skryabin (see p74) Cemetery: Tel (499) 246 6614.
and Dmitriy Shostakovich and opera Open 10am–5pm daily.
singer Fyodor Shalyapin (see p85). The
Transport
cemetery is also the final resting place
q Sportivnaya. @ 64, 132
for many military and political dignitaries,
The tombstone of Nikita including Nikita Khrushchev (see p32) (see p227).  5, 15.
Khrushchev and Boris Yeltsin.

Entrance

. Gate Church of the

Transfiguration
Sportivnaya
A cornice of scallop-shell
metro
gables, topped by five
gilded domes and
crosses, crowns this
grand Baroque church.
It stands over the main
gate to the convent and
was completed in 1688.

. Bell Tower
Completed in 1690, this tower
is one of the most exuberant Lopukhin Palace
examples of Baroque architec- This palace was built in 1687–9.
ture in Moscow. The Church of After Peter the Great’s death in
St John the Divine occupies 1725 his first wife, Yevdokiya
the second storey of the six- Lopukhina, moved here from the
tiered, octagonal tower, which Suzdal convent where she had
stands 72 m (236 ft) high. been sent after Peter tired of her.
Magnificent towers and domed churches of Novodevichiy Convent, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
136  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
7 Tolstoy House-
Museum
Музей-усадьба ЛН
Толстого
Muzey-usadba LN Tolstovo
Ulitsa Lva Tolstovo 21. Map 6 D4.
Tel (499) 246 9444. q Park Kultury.
Open 11am–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun,
noon–8pm Thu. & 8 English (book
in advance). ∑ tolstoymuseum.ru
The presence of one of Russia’s
greatest novelists can be felt in
every corner of this evocative,
wooden house. It was here that
Leo Tolstoy (1828–1910) spent
the winters between 1882 and
1901 with his long-suffering
wife, Sofya Andreevna, and
the nine surviving of their 13
children. The summers were
spent on the Tolstoy ancestral
estate at Yasnaya Polyana (see
p169), 200 km (124 miles) away.
The Moscow house was
turned into a museum in 1921
on Lenin’s orders and has been
preserved much as it would
have been when Tolstoy and
his family resided here.
On the ground floor, the table
in the dining room is laid with
crockery. The evening meal in
the Tolstoy household always
began promptly at 6pm to the
summons of the cuckoo clock
on the wall. Next door is the
“corner room” where, at one
time, the elder sons, Sergey, Ilya
and Lev, would retire to play
Chinese billiards. The house
The simple desk in Tolstoy’s study where he wrote his
final novel, Resurrection
Leo Tolstoy
By the time Tolstoy was in
his 50s, he was an author
of international renown and
had written his two great
masterpieces War and Peace
(1865–9) and Anna Karenina
(1873–7). He continued to write
fiction, but later renounced his
earlier books and the world they
depicted. Instead Tolstoy
concentrated on his highly individual brand of Christian Humanism,
a doctrine that included non-violence, vegetarianism and sexual
abstinence. It was in this period that he wrote the stories The Death
of Ivan Ilych and the Kreutzer Sonata and his last great novel,
Resurrection, which strayed so far from Orthodoxy that the Holy
Synod excommunicated him in 1901. Tolstoy left Moscow the same
year for Yasnaya Polyana, where he devoted himself to the education
of the peasants on the estate.
guests were treated to
supper. They included
the young Sergei
Rachmaninov who
accompanied the bass,
Fyodor Shalyapin (see p85),
on the piano here, the artist
Ilya Repin, whose portrait of
The dining room, with a painting of Tolstoy’s Tatyana now hangs in the
favourite daughter, Mariya “corner room”, the music
critic Vladimir Stasov, and
exudes a sense of ordered, the writer Maxim Gorky (see p97)
comfortable family life, but with whom Tolstoy would play
Tolstoy and his wife frequently chess. The drawing room next
quarrelled violently, largely on door was decorated by Sofya
account of his wish to renounce Andreevna herself.
society and live as simply as The bedroom of Tolstoy’s
possible. The couple were favourite child, Mariya, is
reconciled for a short time rather spartan, testifying to
when Vanya, their much-loved her sympathy for her father’s
youngest child died ideals and way of life.
from scarlet fever At the far end of the upstairs
before reaching his passage is Tolstoy’s study, a
seventh birthday. His spacious room overlooking the
memory is preserved garden. Reflecting his passion
in his small bedroom, for austerity, the room is simply
where his high chair, furnished in black leather. The
rocking horse and plain, solid desk where he wrote
books can be seen. his novel Resurrection is lit by
The bedroom of candles. Rather than admit to
Tolstoy’s second being shortsighted, Tolstoy
daughter, Tatyana, sawed off the ends of his chair
is crammed with legs to bring himself closer to
ornaments and his papers. In the adjoining
keepsakes. She was washroom are dumbbells and
a talented artist and a bicycle – evidence of his
her own paintings interest in keeping fit. Also on
and sketches are show are the tools he used for
hung on the walls. his hobby of shoe-making, with
The stairs to the some of the pairs he made. The
first floor open into back stairs close by lead to the
the salon, a large hall garden, which is only accessible
where frequent to those taking a guided tour.

The luxurious interior of the Church of St Nicholas of the Weavers
8 Church of
St Nicholas of
the Weavers
Церковь Святителя
Николая в Хамовниках
Tserkov Svyatitelya Nikolaya v
Khamovnikakh
Ulitsa Lva Tolstovo 2. Map 6 D4.
Tel (499) 255 3071. q Park Kultury.
Open 7:30am–8pm daily. ^
Dedicated to the patron saint
of weavers, sailors and farmers,
this spectacular church was
founded in 1679 by local
weavers (khamovniki). Their aim
was to surpass the Church of
the Resurrection in Kadashi
(see p124), which was built a
few years before by rival
weavers across the river.
While staying at their winter
home nearby, Tolstoy and his
family used to attend services
The Church of St Nicholas of the Weavers,
topped by golden domes
FURTHER AFIELD
here until his rift with the
Church authorities. The church
continued to function through-
out the Communist era.
The exterior is decorated
with vivid orange and green
gables and topped with five
golden domes, while the walls
are decorated with patterned
tiles imitating woven motifs.
Inside the church there is
an iconostasis featuring a
17th-century Icon of St Nicholas.
A separate Icon of the Virgin,
Helper of Sinners, is reputed
to perform miracles.
9 Tretyakov on
Krymsky Val
Третьяковская галерея на
крымском валу
Tretyakovskaya galereya na
Krymskom Valu
Krymskiy val 10. Map 6 F3.
Tel (499) 230 7788. q Park Kultury,
Oktyabrskaya. Open 10am–7:30pm
Tue–Sun. & 7 8 English.
∑ tretyakov.ru
This huge white box of a
building is an annexe of the
Tretyakov Gallery (see pp120–23)
in the centre of town. It is
devoted to Russian art from the
early 1900s to the present. Most
of the canvases here belong to
the official movement known as
Socialist Realism and reflect the
cultural straitjacket imposed by
Stalin (see p29). It had its roots in
 137
the Wanderers movement of the
1860s, which was based on the
principle that art has, first and
foremost, a social role to play,
though lyricism and beauty in
paintings were also important
(see p122). In contrast, the hard-
hitting art of the Communist
era served the state’s interests,
reflecting socialist goals and
achievements. A few examples
of the titles given to the paint-
ings say it all: Life is Getting
Better; Building New Factories;
Unforgettable Meeting (between
Stalin and a spellbound young
woman). Technological
achievements were also
immortalized in pictures such
as The First Russian Airship.
Many people will find the
Modernist paintings at the
beginning of the exhibition
more aesthetically pleasing.
These include pictures by pre-
viously outlawed artists, such
as the Black Square by Kazimir
Malevich and works by Con-
structivists such as Aleksandr
Rodchenko and the brothers
Georgiy and Vladimir Stenberg.
Outside, on the Moskva river
embankment, is the Graveyard
of Fallen Monuments, a collec-
tion of some of the sculptures
removed from around Moscow
at the end of the Soviet era.
Pride of place belongs to the
statue of the secret police chief,
Feliks Dzerzhinskiy, which was
taken down from outside the
KGB headquarters (see p114)
in 1991. A striking addition to
the view from the gardens is
a statue of Peter the Great by
Zurab Tsereteli.
The vast statue of Peter the Great, erected
in 1997, viewed from the Graveyard of
Fallen Monuments
138  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
The distinctive, colourful Church of St John the Warrior
0 Church of St John
the Warrior
Церковь Иоанна Воина
Tserkov Ioanna Voina
Ulitsa Bolshaya Yakimanka 46.
Map 6 F4. Tel (499) 238 2056.
q Oktyabrskaya. ^
The plans for this famous
church, attributed to the
architect Ivan Zarudniy, are
said to have been personally
approved by Peter the Great
(see p24). Building work took
place from 1709 to 1713 and
the result is a notable example
of Petrine Baroque, a style
which had begun to flourish
in St Petersburg, the tsar’s
new capital. The church’s
most eye-catching feature
is a tiered octagonal tower,
with an elegant balustrade
and splendid coloured
roof tiles forming bold,
geometric designs.
St John the Warrior is one of
the few churches to have stayed
open after the Revolution and
a number of historic works of
religious art were transferred
here for safekeeping. These can
still be seen in the church and
include the 17th-century Icon
of the Saviour, which hung
in a chapel near the Saviour’s
Tower in the Kremlin. Across
the road is the extremely
striking Igumnov House, which
was built in 1893 for a rich
merchant by Nikolay Pozdeev.
It is a typically flamboyant
example of Russian-Revival
architecture (see p47), and now
houses the French Embassy.
q Donskoy
Monastery
Донской монастырь
Donskoy monastyr
Donskaya ploshchad 1. Tel (495) 952
3570. q Shabolovskaya. Open
7am–7pm daily. 7 grounds only.
^8
The Donskoy Monastery was
founded in 1593 by Boris
Godunov to honour the Icon
of Our Lady of the Don,
credited with having twice
saved Russia from the
Mongols. The first time was
in 1380 when Prince Dmitriy
Donskoy carried the icon
into battle at Kulikovo (see
p163). Boris Godunov also
used it to rally his troops in
1591 against the army of
Khan Kazy Girei. The crescent
moons, or half boats, below
many of the golden crosses
on top of the monastery
buildings, symbolize the
church as a ship of salvation.
The modest scale of the
original monastery is reflected
in the beautifully understated
Small Cathedral. The orthodox
prelate, Archbishop Amvrosiy,
killed by a mob during a riot
in 1771, is buried within.
The remains of Patriarch
Tikhon, who was imprisoned
by the Bolsheviks after the
Revolution, were secretly
buried here until 1992 when
they were moved to the
Grand Cathedral.
The fortified outer walls
and Grand Cathedral were
added in the late 17th-
century when the monastery
acquired greater prestige
under the patronage of the
Regent Sophia.
Built in 1684–98 in the
Moscow-Baroque style (see
p46), the New Cathedral is a
towering brick building with
five domes. Inside are a stun-
ning seven-tiered iconostasis
and frescoes painted in
1782–5 by Italian artist
Antonio Claudio. The Icon
of Our Lady of the Don is
now in the Tretyakov Gallery
(see pp120–23), but a copy is
on show in the Old Cathedral.
The Donskoy Monastery’s imposing
17th-century Grand Cathedral
w Danilovskiy
Monastery
Даниловский монастырь
Danilovskiy monastyr
Danilovskiy val 22. Tel (495) 958 0502.
q Tulskaya. Open 7am–8pm daily.
7 ∑ saintdaniel.ru
Founded by Prince Daniil in
1298–1300, the Danilovskiy
Monastery is the city’s oldest.
It was used as a factory and
youth detention centre after
the Revolution, but since 1988
it has been the headquarters
 FURTHER AFIELD  139

The Russian Orthodox Church

Christianity was adopted as
Russia’s official religion in
AD 988 when Vladimir I (see p19)
married the sister of the
Byzantine Emperor and had
himself baptized in the
Orthodox faith. In the
13th century monasteries
became a focus for resistance
against the invading Mongols.
Thereafter the Church played a vital role in Russian life until the
Revolution, when it was forced underground. As the Soviet Union
broke up, the church revived and, in 1992, Boris Yeltsin became the
first Russian leader to attend church services since 1917. Delicate stone tracery on the Figured Gate
at Tsaritsyno

of the Russian Orthodox Church, e Kolomenskoe Bazhenov conceived an

which has offices in its more
modern, plainer buildings.
The green-domed Church of
the Holy Fathers of the Seven
Ecumenical Councils is the
oldest of the three churches
within the fortified walls. It was
founded by Ivan the Terrible
(see p20) in the 16th century.
The main church, on the first
floor, has a 17th-century icono-
stasis with contemporary icons.
At the heart of the monastery
is the elegant yellow Cathedral
of the Trinity, designed by Osip
Bove (see p47) in 1833 and
completed 5 years later.
The pretty pink bell tower in
the northern wall contains the
Gate Church of St Simeon the
Stylite. It was built in 1730–32,
but knocked down in the
1920s. The bells were sold to
Harvard University, but have
now been restored to the
rebuilt gate and bell tower.
The iconostasis in the Church of the Holy Fathers, Danilovskiy Monastery
See pp140–41.
r Tsaritsyno
Царицыно
Tsaritsyno
Ulitsa Dolskaya 1. Tel (495) 321
6366. q Orekhovo, Tsaritsyno.
Open Apr–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue–
Sun (to 8pm Sat, to 9pm Sun); Nov–
Mar: 11am–6pm Wed–Sun (to 8pm
Sat, to 7pm Sun). & 7 8 English
(book in advance). - Grounds:
Open 6am–midnight daily.
Catherine the Great (see p25)
bought this tract of land in
1775 and changed its name from
Chyornaya Gryaz (Black Mud) to
Tsaritsyno (the Tsarina’s Village).
In doing so, she commissioned
one of her most imaginative
architects, Vasiliy Bazhenov (see
p46), to design and construct a
lavish imperial palace which
would rival any in St Petersburg.
innovative palace complex
combining Gothic, Baroque
and even Moorish styles and
Catherine approved the plans.
She visited the site in 1785 and,
although construction was well
under way, proclaimed herself
dissatisfied. Bazhenov’s young
colleague Matvey Kazakov (see
pp46–7) was told to rebuild the
palace but, after a further
decade of construction, lack
of funds left it still incomplete.
Today the grounds boast
charming lakes and woodland
walks. Some of the ruins have
been restored, but the forlorn
remainder have a beauty which
the completed palace might
never have matched. Although
the shell of Kazakov’s Grand
Palace is the most imposing
building on the estate, some
of Bazhenov’s smaller structures
are equally impressive. Visitors
can see the Figured Gate
with its elegant Gothic-style
towers and lancet windows,
the Figured Bridge and the
ornate two-storey Opera House,
one of the few buildings
Catherine approved. The
extraordinary Bread Gate,
with its arch of sharply pointed
stone “teeth”, leads to the
kitchens, while the Octahedron
was built as the servants’
quarters. The attractive
Church of Our Lady of the
Life-Giving Spirit was added
in the 19th century.
A small museum on the
estate displays icons, china,
glass and some Fabergé eggs,
as well as landscapes and
architectural exhibits.
140  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

e Kolomenskoe
Коломенское
Kolomenskoe
The earliest known reference to Kolomenskoe village is in the will of Ivan I
(see p20), dated 1339. By the 16th century Kolomenskoe was a favourite country
estate of the tsars. The oldest surviving building is the Church of the Ascension,
constructed in 1532. A superb wooden palace was built
for Tsar Alexis Mikhailovich (see p21) in 1667–71, but it was
demolished in the 18th century and rebuilt according to
its original plans in 2010. After the Revolution the park
was designated a museum of architecture, and
wooden buildings, such as Peter the Great’s cabin
from Archangel, were moved here from all over
Russia. Also located on the estate is the Front Gate
Museum. Its exhibits include Russian craft objects,
such as tile paintings and woodcarvings.

. Church of
the Ascension
This magnificent
church was erected
by Basil III in 1532
to celebrate the
birth of his son Ivan
(later the Terrible).
It was the first tent-
roofed church to
be built in stone.

KEY

1 The Front Gate was the

ceremonial entrance to Tsar Alexis’
palace. The chambers on either side
of it are now the Front Gate Museum.
2 Mead Brewery
3 Front Gate Museum
4 The Pavilion is all that remains Church of St George
of Alexander I’s palace, built in 1825. The 16th-century Church of
5 Refectory St George once stood on this site,
but today only the church’s bell
6 The Falcon Tower was built in
1627. It was used as a water tower.
tower still stands.

7 This wooden gate tower was

brought to Kolomenskoe from the St
Nicholas Monastery at Karelia in 1932.
It was built in 1692 from interlocking
sections without using a single nail.
8 Front Gate Museum annexe
9 These ancient oaks are said to
have been planted by Peter the Great.
0 Bratsk Stockade Tower
q The Boris Stone (12th century)
bears the inscription, “Strong, brave,
holy Boris”.
Model of Wooden Palace
Kolomenskoe underwent a major expansion during the reign
of Tsar Alexis Mikhailovich, father of Peter the Great. He added
a new centrepiece, an astonishing wooden palace with
fanciful barrel-shaped roofs, onion domes and carved
ornamentation, which visiting diplomats
described as the “eighth wonder of the
world”. It was demolished in 1768 on
the orders of Catherine the Great.
Fortunately she had a model made,
according to which the palace was
reconstructed in 2010.
 FURTHER AFIELD  141

Church of St John the Baptist

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Located to the south of the main
estate, this church was commis-
Practical Information
sioned by Ivan the Terrible to
Prospekt Andropova 39.
celebrate his accession to
Tel (499) 615 2768. Front
the throne in 1547.
Gate Museum & Churches:
Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–
Sun. & 8 English (book in
advance). = 0 - Grounds:
Open 8am–9pm daily. 7
Transport
q Kolomenskaya.
Church of St John
the Baptist

Peter the Great’s Cabin

This simple log cabin was built for
Tsar Peter the Great in 1702 when
he visited Archangel (on the north
coast of Russia). It was brought to
Kolomenskoe in 1934 and its four
low-ceilinged rooms restored.

0 metres 25

0 yards 25

St Saviour’s Gate is
the main entrance to
Kolomenskaya metro the complex.

. Church of Our Lady of Kazan

Completed in 1650 for Tsar Alexis, this stunning church is an
early example of Moscow Baroque (see p46). It is now open
again for worship. A replica of the Icon of Our Lady of Kazan,
which is believed to have helped Russia drive out Polish
invaders in 1612, can be found inside the church.
142  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
t Krutitskoe
Mission
Крутицкое подворье
Krutitskoe podvorye
Krutitskaya ulitsa 11. Map 8 E5.
Tel (495) 676 3093. q Proletarskaya.
Grounds: Open 8am–8pm daily.
The Metropolitan originally
resided in the Kremlin, but
after the creation of the
patriarchate in the 16th century
the bishops of Krutitsy became
metropolitans (see p58). The
Mission’s name derives from
the Russian krutoy, meaning
steep, and refers to the nearby
bank of the Moskva river.
There is ongoing restoration
work within a number of the
buildings. They are dominated
by the bulky Cathedral of the
Assumption, which was built
in 1685. The entire edifice,
including the onion domes,
is built of bricks.
A covered gallery links the
cathedral to the Metropolitan’s
Palace via a double-arched
gateway topped by a small
pavilion or teremok. The gallery
and pavilion are by Osip
Startsev, who was famous in
Russia in the late 17th century
as a designer of religious
buildings. The northern façade
of the teremok is decorated
with intricately carved window
frames and turquoise tiles
with yellow floral motifs.
The Metropolitan’s Palace is a
handsome, though plainer, red-
brick building with pyramidal
chimneys and an impressive
staircase at the rear.
Since falling into disrepair
early in the 19th century, the
Mission has served as a bar-
racks, a prison and, after the
Gateway at Krutitskoe, linking the cathedral to the Metropolitan’s Palace
Revolution, a workers’
hostel: their wooden living
quarters still survive. Now,
the youth movement of
the Orthodox Church is
based here.
y Kuskovo
See pp144–5.
u Monastery of
the Saviour and
Andronicus
Спасо-Андроников
монастырь
Spaso-Andronikov monastyr
Andronevskaya ploshchad 10.
Map 8 F2. q Ploshchad Ilyicha.
Open 11am–6pm Thu–Tue. Museum:
Tel (495) 678 1467. & ^ 8 (book
in advance).
Travelling back from the city
of Constantinople in 1360,
Metropolitan Aleksey survived a The museum’s collections,
storm at sea. To give thanks he
founded the Monastery of the
Saviour on the banks
of the Yauza river. He
then appointed the
monk Andronicus to
be the first abbot
and to oversee the
building works.
The best-known
monk to have lived
here was Andrey
Rublev, Russia’s most Icon of St John the Baptist, 20th centuries. The
brilliant icon painter
(see p63). He is
thought to have died and
been buried here in about
1430, but the location of his
grave is unknown. Rublev is
commemorated by the
monastery’s Andrey Rublev
The Cathedral of the Saviour, with
characteristic kokoshniki gables
Museum of Old Russian Art.
There are no icons by Rublev
himself here, but some excellent
copies of his works are on show,
along with genuine pieces by
his contemporaries. Original
Rublev icons can be seen in the
Tretyakov Gallery (see pp120–23).
consisting of more than
150,000 paintings, sculptures
and drawings, are on
show in two of the
monastery buildings.
The 16th-century
Abbot’s House,
decorated with tiles
and just to the right
of the main entrance,
displays decorative
arts of the 11th to
15th century Baroque Church
of the Archangel
Michael, built in 1691–94,
displays Russian art of the 13th
to 17th centuries. Highlights
include the 17th-century Icon of
the Tikhvin Virgin, originally
from the Donskoy Monastery
(see p138), and paintings
depicting the life of St Nicholas
of Zaraysk, one of Russia’s
favourite saints.
The beautiful, single-domed
Cathedral of the Saviour was
built in either 1390 or 1425–7. If
the former date is correct, this
would make it the oldest church
in Moscow. The original interior
was destroyed by fire in 1812,
but fragments of the frescoes
have been restored. Traces of
work by Rublev have survived
around the altar windows.
 FURTHER AFIELD  143

i Izmaylovo Park
Парк Измайлово
Park Izmaylovo
Narodniy prospekt 17. Tel (499) 166
6119. q Izmaylovskiy Park.
Open 24 hours. 7 -

One of the largest parks in

Europe, Izmaylovo covers
nearly 12 sq km (4.7 sq miles).
It features attractions such
as sports facilities, children’s
amusements, cafés and woods,
as well as an outdoor theatre, a
famous flea market (see p193), a
cathedral and the picturesque
remains of one of the tsars’
country estates.
Izmaylovo passed to the
Romanov family in the 16th
century and became one of
their favourite hunting lodges.
In 1663, Tsar Alexis (see p21) built
an enormous wooden palace
here and dedicated the land
to experiments in animal and
vegetable husbandry and
various cottage industries.
Peter the Great later spent an
idyllic childhood at Izmaylovo,
secluded from palace intrigues.
It was here that his lifelong
fascination with the sea began,
when he learned to sail an old
boat on a lake. The boat was
later nicknamed the “grand-
father of the Russian navy”.
The wooden palace has long
since disappeared, demolished
by Catherine the Great in 1767.
However, about 500 m (550 yds)
east of Izmaylovskiy Park metro,
the remains of other buildings
can be seen on an island near
the sports stadium. The lake
surrounding them was once
part of a network of 37 ponds
Triple-arched Ceremonial Gate, the surviving entrance to
the tsars’ former estate, Izmaylovo Park
17th-century Cathedral of the Intercession, Izmaylovo Park
previously created by Tsar
Alexis for breeding fish and
irrigating experimental crops.
He planted exotic species such
as mulberry trees and cotton
and ordered seeds from his
ambassadors in England.
The island is reached over a
small bridge. The iron archway
at its far end was built in 1859
and led to three buildings
commissioned by Nicholas I
and designed by Konstantin
Ton (see p47) in the 1840s for
retired soldiers. Rising above
the trees ahead, behind the
remains of the
estate’s walls,
are the five,
formidable black
domes of the
Cathedral of the
Intercession, built
in 1671–9. The
domes are tiled with
metallic “scales”. The
zakomary gables
(see p46) beneath
them are beautifully
decorated with
“peacock’s eye” tiles,
by Stepan Polubes,
a late 17th-century
Belorussian ceramicist
working in Moscow.
On the cathedral’s right is
a tiered red-brick arch with a
tent roof. Built in 1671, this is
the Bridge Tower, all that remains
of a 14-span bridge that once
crossed the estate’s extensive
waterways. Its tower was used
for meetings of the boyars’
council under Tsar Alexis. The
top tier of the bridge gives fine
views over the whole estate.
On the opposite side of
the cathedral from the Bridge
Tower stands the white, triple-
arched Ceremonial Gate. It was
designed by Terentiy Makarov
In 1682 and is one of two gates
that originally led to the palace.
The flea market, just to the
northwest of the lake, trails
down the hill from the concrete
tower blocks of the Izmaylovo
Hotel, offering an amazingly
eclectic variety of goods.
Muscovites come here in large
numbers to buy items such as
second-hand household goods
and vehicle parts. Tourists are
likely to be greeted by a storm
of shouts in English from people
selling their wares.
144  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

y Kuskovo
Кусково
Kuskovo
For over 200 years before the Revolution, Kuskovo was
the country seat of one of Russia’s wealthiest aristocratic
families, the Sheremetevs. The present buildings were
commissioned by Count Pyotr Sheremetev after his
marriage to the heiress Varvara Cherkasskaya in 1743.
Among their 200,000 serfs were the architects Fyodor
Argunov and Aleksey Mironov who played a major role in
Kuskovo’s construction, probably under the supervision of
professional architect Karl Blank. Apart from the elaborate
gardens, the main attraction is the two-storey wooden Church of the Archangel Michael
Constructed in 1737–8, the church
palace, completed in 1777. A ceramics museum, with a
is the oldest building on the estate.
renowned collection of porcelain, occupies the Orangery. The statue on its dome is of the
Archangel Michael. The wooden
bell tower and golden spire
were added in 1792.

KEY

1 The Swiss Cottage resembles 0 metres 50

a traditional Alpine chalet. It 0 yards 50
was designed by Nikolay Benoit
in 1870.
2 Lake
3 The Dutch Cottage was built
in 1749 in the homely style of
17th-century Dutch architecture,
in red brick and with stepped
gables. The tiled interiors
house Russian ceramics and
glassware.
4 Obelisk
5 The Hermitage has distinctive
rounded walls and is topped by
a dome.
6 Allegorical statue of the
Greek river god Scamander
7 Statue of Minerva, Roman
goddess of wisdom
8 Aviary
9 American Orangery
0 The Green Theatre was
used to stage open-air plays
and concerts for an audience . Wooden Palace
of 50 guests Surprisingly, this
q The Menagerie, a semicircle Neo-Classical palace is
of terracotta and white fenced made entirely of wood,
pavilions, housed songbirds. plastered and painted
to resemble stone.
w Coach House
Carriage ramps sweep
e The kitchens were housed in up to the main portico,
this large, imposing building, which is emblazoned
constructed in 1756–7. with the crest of the
Sheremetev family.
 FURTHER AFIELD  145

. Orangery
With a central hall for dining
and dancing, the Orangery
was built in 1761–2. It is now a
ceramics museum, based on the
18th–19th-century porcelain
collection of Aleksey Morozov
(see p98). Pieces on show include
Wedgwood, Meissen and items
from various Russian factories.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Ulitsa Yunosti 2. Tel (495) 370
0160. Open mid-Apr–mid-Oct:
10am–6pm Wed–Sun; mid-Oct–
mid-Apr: 10am–4pm Wed–Sun.
Closed last Wed of the month.
& tickets sold at main entrance
for individual sights. 8 book in
advance. = -
Transport
q Ryazanskiy prospekt, Vykhino.
@ 133, 208 (see p227).

. Formal Gardens
The gardens were laid out
in the French, geometrical
style, which led to Kuskovo
gaining a reputation
as the Russian Versailles.

Italian Cottage
Russian architect Yuriy Kologrivov
studied in Italy prior to designing
this pavilion. It was built in 1754–5
in the style of a late-Renaissance
villa and now contains displays
of 18th-century paintings.

. Grotto
Designed by Fyodor Argunov
in the mid-18th century, the
Grotto is the most remarkable
of Kuskovo’s pavilions. The cool,
spacious interior is decorated
with shells and porcelain
Entrance embedded in sand and stucco.
146  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA
The majestic entrance to Leningradskiy station, on
Komsomolskaya ploshchad
o Komsomolskaya
Ploshchad
Комсомолская площадь
Komsomolskaya ploshchad
Map 4 D2. q Komsomolskaya.
The three railway stations
on this large square are long-
standing rivals for the affection
of Muscovites. The oldest,
Leningradskiy station (formerly
Nikolaevskiy station), opened
in 1851, serving as the
terminus of the line from
St Petersburg to Moscow.
The building was designed
according to the tenets of
historicism by Konstantin
Ton (see p47), architect of the
Great Kremlin Palace (see p65).
In complete contrast is the
turreted Yaroslavskiy station,
rebuilt in 1902 by architect
Fyodor Shekhtel (see p47).
The station is a colourful Style-
Moderne building with a tiled
frieze and an unusual, steeply
pitched roof. The Trans-Siberian
Railway starts here.
Shekhtel’s radical design for
his station goaded his rival,
Aleksey Shchusev (see p47),
into adopting an equally bold
approach when designing the
third station, Kazanskiy, on the
opposite side of the square.
Begun in 1912, the station
has a tiered central tower
modelled on the citadel in
the Mongol capital Kazan.
The terminal was completed
in 1926 and serves the Urals.
The porticoed
pavilion of
Komsomolskaya
metro station (see
pp41–3) is also a
striking feature of the
square. It is named
after the Komsomol
(Communist Youth
volunteers) who
helped to build it.
It has a luxurious
interior, lit by glit-
tering chandeliers.
Komsomolskaya
ploshchad itself is
a seething mass of
beggars, families
with apparently
everything they
own in tow, street
hawkers, drunks, drug dealers
and, in the evenings, prostitutes.
It has assumed an unnerving
atmosphere to say the least,
so it is advisable not to linger
here long, especially at night.
p Vasnetsov
House-Museum
Дом-музей ВМ Васнецова
Dom-muzey VM Vasnetsova
Pereulok Vasnetsova 13. Map 3 A2.
Tel (495) 681 1329. q Sukharev-
skaya, Prospekt Mira. Open
10am–5pm Wed–Sun. Closed last
Thu of the month. & ^
∑ tretyakovgallery.ru
A graphic artist, sculptor,
painter, theatre designer
and architect, Viktor Vasnetsov
(1848–1926) was a member
of the artists’ colony set up by
arts patron Savva Mamontov
at Abramtsevo (see p162). He is
Ornate roof of the wooden house designed
by Viktor Vasnetsov
probably best known for the
highly original façade of the
Tretyakov Gallery (see pp120–23),
where many of his paintings
are also housed. Vasnetsov
designed this unusual house for
himself and his family in 1893–4
and lived here until he died in
1926, at the age of 78. As an
enthusiastic advocate of
traditional Russian folk art and
architecture, he employed
peasant carpenters from
Vladimir (see pp168–9) to build
his remarkable, log-cabin-like,
timber house with green roofs.
The ground-floor rooms
display highly individual pieces
of furniture, many designed by
Vasnetsov and his similarly
talented younger brother,
Arkady (1856–1933). The
stoves are decorated with
tiles made by fellow artist
Mikhail Vrubel (1856–1910).
A spiral staircase hung with
17th-century chain mail and
weaponry leads up to the
artist’s studio, which resembles
a vaulted medieval hall. This is
the perfect backdrop for
Vasnetsov’s arresting canvases,
many of which take figures
from Russian legends as their
subjects. For example, Baba
Yaga portrays Russia’s forest
witch indulging in her favourite
occupation, stealing children.
The Sleeping Princess, painted in
the last year of Vasnetsov’s life,
shows a scene from the fairy
story, “Sleeping Beauty”.
a Ostankino Palace
Московский музей-усадьба
Oстанкино
Moskovskiy muzey-usadba
Ostankino
1-ya Ostankinskaya ulitsa 5. Tel (495)
683 4645. q VDNKh. Open mid-
May–Sep: 11am–7pm Wed–Sun;
grounds to 9pm. & 7 gardens only.
8 English.
Like the estate at Kuskovo (see
pp144–5), Ostankino was built by
the serf architects Pavel Argunov
and Aleksey Mironov for the
Sheremetevs, one of Russia’s
richest families. Count Nikolay
Sheremetev was a prominent
patron of the arts and built his
palace around a theatre, where a

Main façade of the imposing, Neo-Classical Ostankino Palace
company of 200 serf actors and
actresses performed plays of his
choosing. In 1800 the Count
married Praskovia Zhemchugova-
Kovaleva, one of the actresses.
Secluded at their palace, they
were able to shelter themselves
from the disapproval of polite
society, but sadly Praskovia
died 3 years later. The
count never recovered from
the loss and left the palace,
which fell into disuse.
Ostankino is a handsome
palace, with a shallow green
dome and impressive Classical
18th century interiors. The main
building has an admirably
restrained Neo-Classical façade.
It was built in wood in 1792–8
and skilfully plastered over
to look like brick and stone. It
demonstrates the remarkable
workmanship of Sheremetev’s
serf craftsmen. The halls are a
wonder of trompe l’oeil decor.
Carved wooden mouldings are
painted to resemble bronze,
gold and marble, parquet floors
are patterned in birchwood and
mahogany, while a huge crystal
chandelier hangs from the
frescoed ceiling of the main
hall. The pavilion also serves
as a sculpture gallery and
among the sculptures is a
Roman marble head of Aphro-
dite from the 1st century AD.
The pièce de résistance of
the palace is the theatre, a
breathtaking, elliptical hall
with a superb painted ceiling
supported by rows of Corinthian
columns. In 1796 the building
was partly reconstructed to
allow the installation of an
ingenious mechanical device
which raised the auditorium
floor so that the theatre
FURTHER AFIELD
could also be used as a
ballroom. In the summer,
concerts of classical music
are still held here.
On the road leading from
the estate is the ornate Church
of the Trinity with a cluster
of green domes. It was built
in 1678–83 for the Cherkasskiy
family, who owned Ostankino
estate before the Sheremetevs.
Theatre auditorium, Ostankino Palace, once
home to Count Sheremetev’s serf actors
s All-Russian
Exhibition
Centre (VVTs)
Всероссийский
Выставочный Центр (ВВЦ)
Vserossiyskiy Vystavochniy
Tsentr (VVTs)
Prospekt Mira. Tel (495) 544 3400.
q VDNKh. Grounds: Open May–Sep:
9am–9pm (to 10pm Sat & Sun); Oct–
Apr: 9am–8pm (to 9pm Sat & Sun).
7 Pavilions: Open May–Sep: 10am–
7pm (to 8pm Sat & Sun); Oct–Apr:
9am–8pm (to 9pm Sat & Sun). 7
Botanical Gardens: Open May–Oct:
10am–8pm daily. Space Museum:
Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm
Thu). & 7 ^
One of the city’s main tourist
attractions in Soviet times, the
former Exhibition of Economic
 147
Achievements of the USSR
(VDNKh) has now become the
All-Russian Exhibition Centre
(VVTs), a vast park, shopping
centre and exhibition site. VVTs
remains a fascinating place for
a visit, especially for enthusiasts
of Soviet architecture. There are
scores of massive pavilions,
including a Pavilion of the
Peoples of the USSR, guarded
by a statue of Lenin. Its interior
houses booths selling electrical
goods and cosmetics.
The main entrance to the park
is a huge triumphal arch, topped
by the figures of a tractor driver
and female collective farmer,
holding up a sheaf of corn.
In the centre of the complex
is the Fountain of the Republics,
consisting of 15 gilded statues
of maidens in national dress
(representing the former Soviet
republics) circling a golden
wheat sheaf. Jets of water from
the basin are sprayed 24 m (79 ft)
into the air, and at night it is lit up.
Nearby is the entrance to the
Botanical Gardens, which
contain a small but pleasant
Japanese Garden where tea is
served. There are also numerous
ponds and picnic spots.
Heading back towards VDNKh
metro, it is hard to miss the
Obelisk, a monument to the
“Conquerors of Space”. Over
100 m (328 ft) high, it represents
a rocket lifting off. It was erected
in 1964, 3 years after Yuriy
Gagarin’s historic flight. Under-
neath it is the Space Museum,
one of the city’s hidden treasures,
containing Belka and Strelka
(stuffed), the dogs who were
the first creatures to return alive
from space (Laika, more famous
in the West, died), and Vostok 1,
the tiny capsule in which Gagarin
famously orbited the Earth.
Statue of tractor driver and farmer atop the
main entrance of the VVTs
 MOSCOW AREA BY AREA  149

TWO GUIDED WALKS

Modern Moscow is, in many respects, the
brainchild of Stalin. A sprawling city of
around 12 million people, it is not a place
that lends itself easily to a casual stroll.
Stalin intended the city to awe, tearing down
churches and any other buildings that got in
the way of his plan for a Socialist megalopolis,
and the capital’s wide streets and imposing
structures are a testament to his vision.
Walking through Moscow, one can feel
dwarfed by buildings that seem to have been
designed for a larger race of being. One of
the joys of life in the city, however, is finding
a quiet, forgotten corner, an unexpected
moment of calm amid the bustle of city life.
The two walks that follow present two very
different aspects of the Russian capital. The
first explores Moscow’s busy centre, passing
some often neglected, yet fascinating sights
from both Russia’s recent and distant past
including the former headquarters of the
KGB. The second walk provides a journey
through Russian literature, from the giant
statue of Dostoevsky outside the Russian
State Library, to Patriarch’s Ponds, straight
from the pages of a modern Soviet classic.

CHOOSING A WALK

The Two Walks

This map shows the general area covered
by the two guided walks in relation to the
main sightseeing areas of Moscow.

A 90-Minute Literary
Walk (pp152–3)

Northern end of Lubyanka Square, site of the former

headquarters of the Soviet KGB

Tverskaya

Red Square &

Kitay Gorod

Kremlin
Mocква
Arbatskaya skva
Mo

A One-Hour Stroll
Through Central
Zamoskvoreche Moscow (pp150–51)

Key
Walk route

0 kilometres 1
Fountains outside the early 19th-century Manège
exhibition hall 0 miles 1

Detail of the iron gate leading into Alexander Gardens, Kremlin, designed to commemorate the Russian victories over Napoleon
150  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

A One-Hour Stroll Through Central Moscow

Like any major capital, Moscow is a busy place and full of life. Leningrad, Kursk, etc.). They
This walk, along the the quieter embankments and older commemorate the bravery of
streets, is a chance to explore the city’s ancient heart, while the citizens of those cities that
bore the brunt of the fighting
avoiding many of the busier sections. Taking in such varied
during World War II. Next to these
sights as the re-created Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, monuments is the Tomb of the
Red Square and the former KGB HQ, the route provides Unknown Soldier, dedicated to
an excellent opportunity to appreciate Moscow’s rich and the millions of Soviet soldiers
eventful history of the distant, as well as more recent, past. who died in the battle against
Fascism. Newly married couples
often come here to pay homage
to the fallen. Leaving Alexander
Gardens, look to the right for an
unusual view of Red Square 7
(see p108). Walking on, the statue
of the earnest looking military
man astride a horse is Marshal
Georgiy Zhukov 8, the stout
defender of Stalingrad and leader
of the Soviet forces during the
Battle of Kursk in 1943, the largest
tank battle of World War II.
Continue past the statue of
Zhukov for Resurrection Gate 9
(see p107) and another stunning
view of Red Square. Walk
1 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, one of Moscow’s main landmarks through the gate: to the left
is Kazan Cathedral 0 (see
Tips for Walkers direction of the Kremlin, and p107), a 1990s replica of
Along the Moscow River then cross the road at the traffic the original, which, like
The gilded dome of the lights, under the watchful eyes the Cathedral of Christ Aleksandrovskiy
Sad
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour of Moscow’s traffic police. The the Saviour, was
1 (see p76) is immediately visible guarded gate is Borovitskaya destroyed on Stalin’s
on exiting from Kropotkinskaya Tower 3, the presidential orders in 1936.
UL

Biblioteka
imeni
station. The original 19th- entrance to the Kremlin. When
A

YA

Lenina
AY

NA

century cathedral was blown the President, or any other

OV

ZH
KH

up on the orders of Stalin in important figure, arrives traffic

NE

Borovitskaya
MO

MA

1931. This modern replica was is held up throughout Moscow

R
PE

completed in 2000. Explore the to allow the entourage, with its 4

IY
SK
EN

grounds to find a statue of Tsar flashing blue lights, a clear road.

AM

3
ZN

Alexander II 2. After leaving the

НК
L
A

ХО
M

Л R
PE
cathedral grounds turn left and Around Alexander ВО IY
УЛ ZH
walk along the embankment of Gardens A A
U

BY
NK
L

LE
LE

the Moskva river, passing under Next, follow the pathway HO

N

BOL

LK
IV

VO
KA

Bolshoy Kamennyy Bridge. After through Alexander Gardens UL YA

NA
KAM
MOS
ZH

the bridge turn left again in the 4 (see p69) past the Kremlin Kropotkinskaya
RE

ENNY

2
T

walls and turrets, including

BE

PL
A

PRECHISTENSKIE
N

VOROTA
Trinity Tower 5 (see p58), 1 YA
Y
A
AY

A
SO

the tallest of the Kremlin’s

H
SK
YM

EZ
N

ER
ON

fortifications. The gardens

TE

AB
IS
OV

A N
CH

contain a number of cafés and

SK

AY
P RE
IY

the paths are a favourite place

SK
PR

EV

for Muscovites to take a stroll

EN
RS

when the weather is fine. Look

BE

out for the fountains with

characters from Russian fairy
0 metres 300
tales set against the wall of
the shopping complex at the 0 yards 300

northern end of the gardens.

Close to the park’s exit are the
monuments to the Hero Cities Key
4 Water jets of an equestrian fountain,
Alexander Gardens of the Soviet Union 6 (Moscow, Walk route
 T WO GUIDED WALKS  151

Next head up Teatralnyy

Head back through Resurrection
Gate and turn right.proezd to No. 5, Detskiy Mir e,
which was the largest and
From Ploshchcad Revolyutsii most famous toy shop in
to Lubyanka Russia but which has been
Walk across to ploshchad closed for renovation since
Revolyutsii (Revolution Square) 2008. A short distance away is
to find the chunky statue of Lubyanka Square (see p114),
Karl Marx q. The inscription at and, on it, the HQ of
the statue’s base, urging the the former KGB r. Here,
workers of the world to unite, during Communist Russia’s
grows more incongruous year darkest days, the state
by year as capitalism becomes security agency carried out
the main economic model many of its interrogations.
in Russia. Opposite the Karl A plaque to Yuriy Andropov,
Marx statue is the world famous the former Soviet General
0 Kazan Cathedral, rebuilt after its Secretary and KGB chief, is
destruction by the Communists near the entrance. A statue
of Feliks Dzerzhinskiy, founder
PUS
HEC
of the Cheka (forerunners to
NE GL INN

HNA
YA
the KGB), once stood in the
UL ITS A

w U L IT
SA
square until it was toppled in
AYA

TEATRALNAYA
e LUBYANSKAYA r
PL PLOSHCHAD 1991 by cheering crowds in
NYY PR one of the most symbolic
Teatralnaya T E AT RAL t
events to take place
LU

q Lubyanka
Lubyanka
BY

A during the death

NO

Okhotnyy PLOSHCHAD TS
LI
AN

Ryad REVOLYUTSII U throes of the USSR.

VA
BOL

Ploshchad
SK
YA

In a move that
CHER

MANEZHNAYA Revolyutsii
IY

PLOSHCHAD
YA many have seen as
K A SS

PR
BO

KA
PL

8 9
S
OL
GO

0 NIK equally symbolic,

K IY
YA
VL

a plaque to
PE R
VE

EN
TO

6
SK

Kitay
Dzerzhinskiy has
SH

IY

A Gorod
NK
N

PE

ILI
YY

been placed
A

7
ITS

A
PE

ITS
R

L
within the
UL

U
RED SQUARE
KRASNAYA PL
Bolshoi Theatre w grounds of what
5 (see pp92–3), which is now the HQ
Kremlin has undergone of the modern
extensive internal state security
and external recon- q Imposing statue of Marx service, the
struction. Head towards in Revolution Square FSB. To the
IY

the theatre, crossing the right, on

KV OR ET SK

road via the underpass to Lubyanskiy proezd, is the

the right. Teatralnaya ploschad Mayakovsky Museum t
M OS T

S K AYA N A B
MLEV is a favourite place for local (see p113), dedicated to the
KRE
BO L M OS

Moskva workers to sit and eat lunch life of Vladimir Mayakovsky.

on summer days. It is also
occasionally the site of
demonstrations.
One of Stalin’s favourite poets,
Mayakovsky eventually became
disillusioned with Communism
and committed suicide in
this very building. It is a short
walk from here to Lubyanka
metro station.

Tips for Walkers

Starting point: Cathedral of
Christ the Saviour.
Length: 3 km (2 miles).
Getting there: Kropotkinskaya
metro station.
Stopping-off points: There are
plenty of cafés and places to sit
in Alexander Gardens.

8 Statue of war hero Marshal Zhukov, next to the Historical Museum

For keys to symbols see back flap

152  MOSCOW AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Literary Walk

Russia has long been revered for its writers and Moscow is
dotted with statues, monuments and other reminders of
them. This walk highlights not only the well-known giants of
Russian literature, such as Dostoevsky, but also lesser known
yet important literary figures such as Pushkin, the father of
Russian literature, Yesenin, a young idealist poet who took his
own life, and Bulgakov, author of The Master and Margarita, a
novel that conjures up a strange reality in which Moscow is
visited by the devil himself. As well as sights directly relating
to Russian literature, this walk also passes by other places of
interest including theatres and newspaper offices.
5 Ornate façade of the 19th-century
House of Friendship
where Nikolai Gogol (1809–52),
author of the classic novel including an
Dead Souls (1842), lived out his unhappy

UL
YA
final years. It was here that he marriage to the

VA
wrote the second volume of American dancer

DO
o
Dead Souls, but, having fallen Isadora Duncan,

SA
L
under the influence of a and killed himself

BO
religious fanatic, he destroyed in 1925. OK

BO
UL
RE

LS
the manuscript. Cross back Facing each PE

HO
Y
over the road at the pedestrian other, slightly

IY
SK
crossing, pass the Museum of further up the

EV
LA
Oriental Art 7 at No. 12a, and road at Nos. p

O
M
3 Giant statue of Dostoevsky outside the then walk to the end of the 22 and 23
ER
IY
H
RS
A
Russian State Library road. The building opposite respectively, are U
RI R
AT P E
LI P
is ITAR-TASS 8, the Russian the MKhAT Gorky T
SA B
O
L

The Republics’ Tree to the state news agency and the Art Theatre w, SP
IR
House of Friendship mouthpiece of the Communist named for Maxim Gorky, I
D
O

Arriving at Borovitskaya metro Party in Soviet times. To the the dramatist founder of
N
O

station, take the city exit. Next left is the Church of the Great Socialist Realism, and the
VK
A

to the stairs leading to the Ascension 9, where Pushkin Pushkin Theatre e.

escalators is The Republics’ married Natalya Goncharova At the end of the road, take the
Tree 1, a mural depicting in 1831. West of the church, underpass and follow the tunnel
the peoples of the 15 former at No. 6, are the Alexei Tolstoy to the left to enter Pushkin
Soviet republics. Take the and Gorky House-Museums 0. Square r where there is a
escalators to street level. Turn Carry on up Tverskoy bulvar to monument to Alexander
left and follow the road to the the statue of the poet Sergey Pushkin (1799–1837), a hero
corner for a view of the Manège Yesenin q. Born in 1895, he is of Russian literature. Eugene
2 (see p96), an exhibition hall best known for Pugachev (1922), Onegin (1830), his novel in
that was partially destroyed by a verse tragedy dealing with the verse, is held by many to be
a fire in 2005. To the left is the peasant rebellion of 1773–5. the greatest masterpiece of
Russian State Library 3, and, Yesenin had a troubled life, Russian literature (see p75).
outside it, the figure of Fyodor
Dostoevsky (1821–81), the
writer who helped to shape
the 20th-century novel in
works such as Crime and
Punishment (1866). Further
on, at No. 5, is the Shchusev
Museum of Architecture 4,
a former Bolshevik HQ. Take
the underpass to the glitzy
House of Friendship 5 (see p97).

From Nikitskiy bulvar to

Pushkin Square
Turning into Nikitskiy bulvar,
cross the road to No. 7b 6, 8 Ground-floor window of ITAR-TASS, Russia’s official news agency
 T WO GUIDED WALKS  153

Tverskaya ulitsa to
Mayakovskaya Metro
Continue up Tverskaya ulitsa.
On the right hand side of the
street, at No. 18a, look out for a
plaque (in Russian) noting that
this was where Lenin’s wife
worked on the Pravda

PER L
U YY
YA YN
NA E
MFAL RU
ZH
O IU
TR
Mayakovskaya
A- p Patriarch’s Ponds, one of the city’s most popular picnic spots
AY
UL M
VO

V
DO
RO

SA
TN

TRIUMFALNAYA newspaper t. Across the street, (see p113). South of the statue
IK

OK
PLOSHCHAD EUL
AL D
OV

PER at No. 21, stands the red-bricked is the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall
u TV
SK

IY
IY P

ER K
Museum of the Revolution, now
SK O VS i (see p200), named after the
MITR
ER

EN
AY IM PER
OP YY renamed the Museum of composer of The Nutcracker.
i A ST
AR RN
U TY
A
Contemporary History y (see Heading down Bolshaya
OVKA

L EG
Y

SAD D
p99). At the end of Tverskaya Sadovaya ulitsa, walk into the
KI
R S

R
P E HEN

AKVARIUM PE
IY
SK ulitsa, use the underpass to courtyard at No. 10 to pay a
C
ESH

N
SI
A
AG
OV
Y
PE
R
A
ST cross over to the statue of visit to two museums com-
BL KI N
VS t Pushkinskaya Vladimir Mayakovsky u memorating Bulgakov’s life o
NO y
TR

O
AM (1893–1930). A poet of the (see p98). Never a supporter of
EK

M
HP

r revolution, Mayakovsky the Soviet regime, most of

RU

Tverskaya
D
N
YY

PE
R
PUSHKINSKAYA was one of the few Mikhail Bulgakov’s work was
PE

Y
KI
R

PLOSHCHAD
EV
S writers permitted to supressed during his lifetime.
KO

SH
LA travel abroad during Continue on, taking the first
ZI

PA
KH

L
TS
IN

BO
AR
BO

the Soviet crack- left to reach Patriach’s Ponds p.

LI
SK

GO

U
IY

SL

LV

down. He was a This is the setting for the open-

Y
PE

Y
O

ТВ
KI
A
VS
RE

VS
N
KI

BU

e
U

favourite of Stalin, ing of Bulgakov’s The Master and

Y

ЕР
LO

R IK

PER
PE DN
K

BR
MA

СК
EZ

q w who proclaimed Margarita. From here, head back

YA

N
L AY

АЯ
HA

that indiffer- to Mayakovskaya metro station.

A
M
LS
A B

BO

ence to his
K
RO

LO
OY

works was
LO
EU
NN

УЛ
SK

RE

a crime
PE
AY

PE

ИЦ
ER

K
A

LO

IY
IY
U

SK
TV

SK

RE
LI

TS V
PE
EN

A E K
T LO
ES

N
V

U
0
SO

O
ZN

LE
E
R
YU

PE

K
VO

8
LO
BR

9
Y

PL.
Y

RE

BOL N
TN

NIKITSKIE
PE

IKITS
ZE

VOROTA KAYA
Y

UL Б
A

KI
KA

ОЛ
G
NIK

Okhotnyy
TS

Н
MA
LA

ИК Ryad
KI

ИТ
SH
ITS

L K I S LO V S K I Y

NI

7 СК MANEZHNAYA
NY

АЯ
KIY

PLOSHCHAD
Y

PER

УЛ
PE

S K IY
REU
B U LV

R
PE
LO V
PER
LO

V
K

A NO

PO
AR

K IS

VA
RS
q Statue of the troubled poet Sergey
BOL

KA
ROM

YA 6 2
U
U L 5 VO Yesenin on Tverskoy bulvar
SA

L
ZDVIZHENK
A
ULIT

ARBATSKAYA
PLOSHCHAD 4 Tips for Walkers
3
UL

Arbatskaya Aleksandrovskiy Sad

A
YA

Starting point: The Republics’

N AY

Biblioteka imeni Lenina

O VA

UL Tree, Borovitskaya metro station.

Borovitskaya 1
EZH

ZN Length: 4 km (2 miles).
KH

AM Getting there: Borovitskaya.

MAN

EN
MO

KA Stopping-off points: Pushkin

BOROVITSKAYA
Square has stalls selling food.
PLOSHCHAD Patriarch’s Ponds is a good place
for a picnic, with shops nearby.
Key 0 metres 300
There are cafés along Nikitskiy
bulvar and Tverskaya ulitsa.
Walk route 0 yards 300

For keys to symbols see back flap Wooden bathhouse at the Abramtsevo Estate-Museum, a former artists’ colony
 BEYOND
MOSCOW

Arkhangelskoe 160
Borodino 160
Tchaikovsky House-
Museum 161
Abramtsevo Estate-
Museum 162
Pereslavl-Zalesskiy 162
Trinity Monastery of
St Sergius 164–167
Suzdal 168
Vladimir 168–169
Yasnaya Polyana 169
 BEYOND MOSCOW  157

BEYOND MOSCOW
The magnificence of some of the palaces and churches outside Moscow
and the historic interest of some of the towns make excursions there justly
rewarding. Although parts of the landscape are unappealingly industrial,
the large areas of true countryside are green, forested and dotted with
villages of small wooden dachas.

Visitors may find it a good idea to take Also outside Moscow are houses
an organized tour (see p220) to out-of- lived in by two of Russia’s most famous
town sights as public transport can be sons, Pyotr Tchaikovsky (see p161) and
erratic, though perfectly feasible for Leo Tolstoy (see p136).
those who prefer mixing with local On Friday nights the trains and roads
daily life (see p227). There are several into the countryside are packed with
places of historic and cultural families travelling to their dacha, a
importance within easy reach of migration that leaves the capital
the city. To the west is Borodino (see rather deserted. Each dacha has a
p160), site of the great battle between small plot of land that is used for
Napoleon’s army and Russian forces growing fruit and vegetables. For
under the command of Field Marshal some Muscovites this was, and often
Mikhail Kutuzov. To the north is the still is today, an essential source
magnificent Trinity Monastery of of food. In recent years, brick houses
St Sergius (see pp164–7) and to the started to spring up where farmers
northeast the towns of the Golden used to grow crops, built for New
Ring (see p163). The political heyday Russians who have adopted Western
of these towns was in the 12th and commuter habits. However, many
13th centuries, before the rise of have been abandoned half-built as
Moscow, and their churches and construction firms have gone out of
wooden buildings make them well business in the fast-changing
worth exploring. economic climate.

The Sacred Supper, painted in 1685, displayed in the Treasury at the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
A Neo-Classical colonnade in the formal gardens of Arkhangelskoe
158  BEYOND MOSCOW

Exploring the Moscow Region

Despite the numerous attractions of Moscow, it is well
worth spending time in the surrounding region. Several
country estates lie within easy reach of the city and
make for delightful one- or two-day trips. Among them
are Yasnaya Polyana, where Leo Tolstoy (see p136) lived
for many years, the house in Klin rented by Pyotr
Tchaikovsky and Abramtsevo Estate-Museum, a
former artists’ colony. However, the star attraction Tiles by artist Mikhail Vrubel
of the region is the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius. on a bench at Abramtsevo
Once a place of pilgrimage for the tsars, this huge
complex has several superb cathedrals.
Moscow is also an ideal base for visiting the
Golden Ring towns, which include Pereslavl- Dmitrov
TCHAIKOVSKY
Zalesskiy, Suzdal and Vladimir. Founded Vysokovsk
HOUSE-MUSEUM
by Russians seeking shelter from invading
tribes, these attractive settlements Solnechnogorsk
still have many historic buildings.
Volokolamsk Lobnja
Zelenograd
Riga,
Pskov Mytishchi
Istra
Khimki
Nakhabino

ARKHANGELSKOE
Key MOSCOW
Zvenigorod
Motorway Ruza Mamonovo
a
kv

Main road os Golicyno

M
Vnukovo
Minor road BORODINO Kubinka Aprelevka
Scenic route Mozhaysk

Main railway Podol'sk

Minsk,
Minor railway Kiev Naro- Klimovsk
Fominsk

Chekhov

Serpukhov

Sights at a Glance
1 Arkhangelskoe
2 Borodino
3 Tchaikovsky House-
Museum
4 Abramtsevo Estate-
Museum
5 Trinity Monastery of
St Sergius pp164–7
6 Pereslavl-Zalesskiy
7 Suzdal Tula
8 Vladimir
9 Yasnaya Polyana YASNAYA
POLYANA
The blue-domed Church of the Holy Spirit and the Chapel Over
Orel
the Well, Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
 BEYOND MOSCOW  159

The beautiful Chamber of the Cross in Suzdal

Museum, which is housed in a former
archbishops’ palace

Yaroslavl

PERESLAVL-
ZALESSKIY

Yur'yev-Pol'skiy Ivanovo
Kamenk
a
SUZDAL
Krasnozavodsk
Aleksandrov

TRINITY MONASTERY Kol'chugino

OF ST SERGIUS
Khotkova
ABRAMTSEVO VLADIMIR
ESTATE-MUSEUM
Kirzac
Frjanovo Murom
Lakinsk
Sobinka
Pushkino
ma

Kostreevo
z
ya

Kaliningrad Pokrov Kl
Elektrogorsk
Noginsk
Orekhovo-Zuyevo
Elektrostal'
Reutov Pavlovskiy
Posad
Lyubertsy
Gzhel Kurovskoe
Satura
Ramenskoye

Domodedovo Bronnicy Yegor'yevsk

Mo
sk
v Voskresensk
a

Mihneva Kolomna

Lukhovitsy

Stupino Oka
Ozery
Kashira Penza
Zaraysk
The Cathedral of the Assumption, Vladimir’s
most famous monument

Getting Around
Voronezh Tambov
While some sights on the map, such as Pereslavl-Zalesskiy,
can be visited in a day, a trip to Suzdal, Vladimir or Yasnaya
Polyana will take at least 2 days. Sights are served by a
mixture of trains, buses and coaches (see p227). For more
0 kilometres 30
adventurous travellers the extensive road network offers an
0 miles 30 alternative means of getting to sights, but this too has its
problems (see p226). One of the best ways to visit sights
outside Moscow is on an organized tour (see p220).
For keys to symbols see back flap
160  BEYOND MOSCOW
The southern, garden façade of the Neo-Classical, stucco-covered, wooden palace at Arkhangelskoe
1 Arkhangelskoe
Архангельское
Arkhangelskoe
20 km (12 miles) W of Moscow.
Tel (495) 363 1375. Open May–Oct:
10:30am–5pm Wed–Fri, 10:30am–
6pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Apr: 10:30am–
4pm Wed–Fri, 10:30am–5pm Sat &
Sun. Closed last Wed of the month.
q Tushinskaya, then bus (see p227).
& 8 English (book in advance).
7 pavilions and grounds only.
Most of the buildings on this
country estate date from the
18th and 19th centuries. The
charming Church of the
Archangel Michael was com-
pleted in 1667, however, and
gives the estate its name.
The Golitsyn family acquired
the estate in 1703. In the 1780s
Prince Nikolay Golitsyn began
a wholesale rebuilding, includ-
ing a new palace which was
built to a design by the French
architect Charles de Guerne.
Constructed from wood, it
was covered with stucco to
give the effect of stone. When
Golitsyn died in 1809, the
estate was purchased by
Prince Nikolay Yusupov. The
palace’s rooms are filled with
fine furniture, fabrics and
antiques. There is also an
excellent art collection.
The formal gardens were
laid out in the 18th century.
Within them stand pavilions
such as the Caprice Palace,
built in 1819 for soirees. In
1910–16 a lavish mausoleum
was erected for the Yusupov
family, but it was never used
because of the Revolution.
The painted dome of Yusupov mausoleum,
built in 1910–16, at Arkhangelskoe
2 Borodino
Бородино
Borodino
120 km (75 miles) W of Moscow.
Tel (496) 385 1546. Open 9am–
4:30pm Tue–Sun. Closed last Fri
of the month. £ Mozhaisk or
Borodino, then bus (see p227).
& 9 ∑ borodino.ru
One of the fiercest military
confrontations of the 19th
century took place at
Borodino on 7 September
1812. For more than
15 hours Napoleon
Bonaparte’s Grande
Armée and the Russian
army, led by Field
Marshal Mikhail
Kutuzov, fought each
other to a bloody
impasse. It is estimated
that 40,000 Russian
and 30,000 French soldiers
were killed. Napoleon called
it the “most terrible” of all his
battles, but claimed victory
on the grounds that the
Russians were forced to
continue their retreat to
Moscow. Posterity, however,
awarded the laurels to the
Russians. The French followed
the Russians, but arrived to
find the city and the Kremlin
deserted. The Muscovites then
started a great fire (see pp26–7)
in the city, and faced with a
Russian winter in the open,
the French were finally
forced to retreat.
The battlefield covers over
100 sq km (40 sq miles), but
the main places of interest
are reasonably accessible.
A museum, 1 km (0.5 mile)
south of Borodino village,
recounts the story of the
battle with the aid of
models and an illuminated
map. More than 30
monuments are strewn
around the area. Russia’s
most distinguished general
to fall in battle, Prince Pyotr
Bagration, was buried at the
base of a column dedicated
to the fallen just east of
the museum. Nearby is
the inn, now a museum,
where Leo Tolstoy stayed
to research the back-
ground for his epic
novel War and Peace.
Monument to the The small Empire-
fallen of Borodino style Spasskiy Church
 BEYOND MOSCOW  161

of 1822 was the first monument

to be constructed on the
battlefield. A re-enactment
of the battle takes place every
7 September.

3 Tchaikovsky
House-Museum
Дом-музей ПИ
Чайковского
Dom-muzey PI Chaykovskovo
90 km (55 miles) NW of Moscow. Ulitsa
Tchaikovskogo 48, Klin. Tel (496) 245
8196. Open 10am–5pm Fri–Tue.
Closed last Mon of the month.
£ Klin (see p227). & 9 English.
∑ tchaikovsky-museum.ru
In a letter to his brother Anatoly
in May 1892, Pyotr Tchaikovsky
wrote “I have rented a house in
Klin. What a blessing it is to
know that no-one will come,
either to interrupt my work, or
my reading or walking”. Previous
stays in the village of Frolovskoe
near Klin had inspired some of
his best music, including the
ballets The Sleeping Beauty
and The Nutcracker, and the
opera The Queen of Spades
based on Pushkin’s novel
Tchaikovsky’s wooden house in Klin, in the
Russian countryside he loved so much
The reception area in the house at Klin, containing Tchaikovsky’s piano
(see p75). Tchaikovsky enjoyed
Klin for only a few months,
as he died in 1893. In 1894
his younger brother, Modest,
opened the estate to visitors.
The ground floor of the clap-
board house is closed to the
public, but on entering the
composer’s rooms on the first
floor visitors find themselves
in a bright, spacious reception
area. The walls are covered
with photos of his family, his
classmates at law school
and fellow musicians. The
grand piano in the centre
of the room was a gift from
the Russian firm Becker.
Though an excellent pianist,
Tchaikovsky never performed
in public. The winner of the
Tchaikovsky International
Competition (see p200) gives a
recital here on the composer’s
birthday, 7 May.
Tchaikovsky was a great
collector of souvenirs. On a
shelf behind the piano is a
Statue of Liberty inkpot, which
he brought back from his
triumphant conducting tour
of the United States in 1891.
The bedroom is separated
from the reception area by a
curtain. Warm and intimate, it
contains Tchaikovsky’s dimin-
utive slippers and a beautiful
coverlet made by his niece.
Tchaikovsky finished his Sixth
Symphony, the Pathétique, at
the table by the window.
Also open to visitors are the
handsome wood-panelled
library and the study where
Modest Tchaikovsky worked
as the Klin archivist until his
death in 1916. A memorial
room to the composer holds
some of his personal posses-
sions, including his top hat,
gloves and evening clothes.
Tchaikovsky habitually took
a stroll in the garden before
breakfast and after lunch. His
favourite flowers, lilies of the
valley, are still planted here.

Pyotr Tchaikovsky
Probably Russia’s most famous composer, Tchaikovsky was born in 1840.
After graduating initially in law, he studied music at the St Petersburg
Conservatory. One of his teachers helped the young composer to get
a job teaching music at the Moscow Conservatory (see p96) in 1866
where he then taught for the next 12 years. It was during this period
that Tchaikovsky composed his first four symphonies and the ballet
Swan Lake (1876). In 1877 he married a student from the Conservatory
in an effort to suppress his homosexuality.
However, the marriage was unhappy and short-lived. Tchaikovsky
composed prolifically in the 1880s, completing such works as the
ballet The Sleeping Beauty (1889) and the overture The Year 1812 (1880).
In 1892 he moved to Klin, outside Moscow. He died of cholera in
November 1893, while overseeing the premiere of his final work, the
Sixth Symphony, in St Petersburg. It is rumoured that he drank infected
water as a dignified form of suicide after the exposure of his homosexual Statue of Pyotr Tchaikovsky at the
affair with a young aristocrat. Moscow Conservatory
162  BEYOND MOSCOW
Iconostasis in the Church of the Saviour, Abramtsevo Estate-Museum
4 Abramtsevo
Estate-Museum
Музей-усадьба Абрамцево
Muzey-usadba Abramtsevo
60 km (35 miles) NE of Moscow.
£ Khotkova or Sergiev Posad, then
bus (see p227). Tel (496) 543 2470.
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun (to 6pm
in summer). Closed last Thu of the
month. & ^ ∑ abramtsevo.net
In the second half of the
19th century this delightful rural
retreat became a hive of cultural
activity. Until his death in 1859,
the house was owned by the
writer Sergey Aksakov, whose
sons were leading Slavophile
thinkers. The estate’s creative
legacy was continued in 1870
when it was acquired by Savva
Mamontov, an industrialist and
art patron. Mamontov’s
generosity and zeal led to the
establishment of an artists’
colony here, and to a
re-evaluation of traditional
Russian folk art and craftwork.
The work of local peasant
craftsmen, whose children
were educated in the estate’s
school, was a source of inspi-
ration for many of the artists.
Dotted around the estate
are a number of remarkable
buildings. The artists’ studio,
with a spectacular carved roof,
was designed in 1872 by Viktor
Gartman. Displayed here are
ceramics by the two distin-
guished artists Valentin
Serov and Mikhail Vrubel. The
teremok, meanwhile, is a free
improvization on the typical
peasant hut (izba), and was
originally built as a bathhouse
by Ivan Ropet in 1873. It was
later used as a guesthouse.
Inside are the original wooden
furnishings and ornaments,
such as statuettes, kitchen
utensils and a tiled stove.
The House on Chicken Legs
stands on stilts. Designed by
Viktor Vasnetsov, it is now a
popular children’s attraction,
recalling the witch of Russian
folklore, Baba Yaga, whose
house in the forest is built
on giant chicken legs.
A woodland path leads to the
most remarkable building on the
estate. The Church of the Saviour
Not Made by Human Hand is
modelled on the medieval
churches of Novgorod, but was
brought up to date by the
addition of bands of painted
majolica tiles to its walls of
whitewashed brick. The church
was built in 1881–2, to a design
by Viktor Vasnetsov; the mosaic
floor is also his work, while the
icons were painted by Vasnetsov,
Ilya Repin and his wife Vera,
Vasiliy Polenov and Nikolay
Nevrev. A small oratory holds
Savva Mamontov’s remains
and those of his son Andrey,
who died, aged 19, in 1891.
The manor house still
contains Aksakov’s original
Empire-style furnishings, left by
Mamontov out of respect for his
predecessor. Aksakov knew the
novelists Nikolai Gogol and Ivan
Turgenev, and, here, in the red
sitting-room, Gogol would read
aloud from his masterpiece,
Dead Souls. The dining room
features a beautiful, tiled corner
fireplace and a profusion of
paintings. The gaze, however,
is drawn to a copy of Valentin
Serov’s arresting portrait of Vera,
Savva Mamontov’s daughter,
seated at the dining table.
Entitled Girl with Peaches (1887),
the original can be found in the
Tretyakov Gallery (see p123).
5 Trinity Monastery
of St Sergius
See pp164–7.
6 Pereslavl-
Zalesskiy
Переславль-Залесский
Pereslavl-Zalesskiy
135 km (85 miles) NE of Moscow.
* 43,400. £ Sergiev Posad, then
bus (see p227).
Founded as a fortress in 1152
by Yuriy Dolgorukiy, and
overlooking Lake Pleshcheevo,
Pereslavl-Zalesskiy was an
independent princedom until
1302, when it came under the
control of Moscow. Peter the
Great (see p24) developed
plans for the Russian navy here.
Sights of interest include the
12th-century Cathedral of
the Transfiguration and the
Goritskiy Monastery of the
Assumption, founded in the
14th century but dating mainly
from the 17th–18th centuries.
Cathedral of the Goritskiy Monastery of the
Assumption, Pereslavl-Zalesskiy
 BEYOND MOSCOW  163

The History of the Golden Ring

The first important cities in Russia were Novgorod in the north and Kiev in the south,
which were situated on trade routes connecting the Baltic and the Black Sea. From
the 11th century, as hostile tribes invaded Kievan Rus (see p19) and many Russians
were forced northward, new settlements were founded such as Rostov, Yaroslavl,
Vladimir and Suzdal. Like Novgorod and Kiev, these towns flourished on trade from
Western Europe, Byzantium and Central Asia, while Sergiev Posad, location of the
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius (see pp164–7), became an important centre for the
Orthodox Church. Moscow was also founded during this era (see p19) and, by the
16th century, had become Russia’s capital. By this time the cluster of towns northeast
of Moscow had paled into insignificance, although in the 1960s their historic
importance brought them the title the Golden Ring.

Kostroma
Prince Vladimir
Yaroslavl
Monomakh (see p61)
founded a small
Rostov trading settlement in
Pereslavl- the late 11th century.
Zalesskiy Ivanovo
It was named Vladimir
Sergiev in 1108. Monomakh’s
Suzdal son, Yuriy Dolgorukiy
Posad
(see p19), expanded
Vladimir the town and it was
MOSCOW later the capital of
Northern Rus.

The Golden Ring

A campaign by Suzdal
against Novgorod in
1169 is the subject of
this icon. Created by
the 15th-century
Novgorod School
(see p63), it recalls
Sudzal’s strength
before Moscow
became pre-eminent.
Andrey Bogolyubskiy, the son of
Yuriy Dolgorukiy, moved his court to
Vladimir in 1157, where his craftsmen
were to re-create the splendour of
Kiev. His boyars later murdered him
for being a dictator.

Angels denote that the campaign

against the Mongols was blessed.
Dmitriy Donskoy

The Battle of Kulikovo (see p20),

in 1380, was a turning point in the
history of the Golden Ring. The
Mongols made many inroads into
the area, sacking Suzdal in 1238
and demanding tribute from the
Russians. Dmitriy Donskoy (see p20)
won a decisive victory against
them at Kulikovo, with a blessing,
it is said, from monk Sergius of
Radonezh (see p167).
Many churches were
built in the towns of
the Golden Ring, a sign of
their comparative wealth.
Some wooden churches
are preserved in a museum
at Suzdal (see p168).
164  BEYOND MOSCOW

5 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius

Троице-Сергиева Лавра
Troitse-Sergieva Lavra

Founded around 1345 by Sergius of Radonezh (see p167), the Trinity Monastery of
St Sergius in the town of Sergiev-Possad is one of Russia’s most important religious
centres and places of pilgrimage. In 1608–10, during the Time of Troubles (see p21), the
monks survived a siege by the Polish army and in the 1680s the young Peter the Great
found refuge here during the Streltsy Rebellion (see p24). The monastery was closed
down by the Communists in 1919, but was allowed to open again in 1946,
when it became headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church. The
headquarters transferred to new premises at the Danilovskiy
Monastery (see pp138–9) in 1988.

0 metres 25

0 yards 25

Chapel Over the Well

This delightful, Moscow-
Baroque (see p46) chapel
was built in the late 17th
century to mark the site
of a holy spring.

. Trinity Cathedral
Built in 1422–3 over the
grave of St Sergius, this
splendid church contains
an iconostasis painted
by a team of artists led by
Andrey Rublev (see p63).

. Church of St Sergius
and Refectory
The monks’ refectory was built
in 1686–92 with the Church
Palace of the Metropolitans of St Sergius at its eastern end.
This grand palace was The colourful façade features
completed in 1778. It was the pillars with vine leaf decoration
residence of the metropolitans and chequered walls. The
and patriarchs in 1946–88. interior is equally lavish.
 BEYOND MOSCOW
Tsars’ Apartments
These apartments were built in the
late 17th century for Tsar Alexis
Mikhailovich. He often visited
the monastery with a retinue of
over 500 courtiers. The building
now houses a theological college.
Beautiful Tower –
main entrance
To train
station
. Cathedral of the
Assumption
Commissioned in 1559
by Ivan the Terrible to
commemorate the
capture of Kazan, this is
the monastery’s main
cathedral. Its sumptuous
interior was decorated
by artists from Yaroslavl
over a century later.
 165
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
75 km (47 miles) NE of Moscow.
Tel (496) 540 5721. Cathedral:
Open 5am–8pm daily. Museum:
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Mon. &
^ = - Grounds: Open 5am–
8pm daily. 7 grounds. 8 book
ahead. ∑ stsl.ru
Transport
£ from Yaroslavskiy station
(see p227).
KEY
1 Church of the Holy Spirit
2 Water Tower
3 Sacristy
4 Obelisk
5 Treasury
6 Hospital with Church of
SS Zosima and Savvatiy
7 Carpenters’ Tower
8 The Bell Tower was begun in
1741 and completed 28 years later.
Spectacular views can be obtained
from its gallery.
9 The Church of the Virgin of
Smolensk was built in 1745 to house
the Icon of the Smolensk Virgin.
0 School buildings
q Library
w The Duck Tower was given its
unusual name because of the legend
that Peter the Great used to shoot
ducks from its windows.
e Drying Tower
r The Gate Church of St John
the Baptist stands over the main
entrance. It was built in 1692–9
by the wealthy Stroganov family.
t Godunov’s Tomb is where Tsar
Boris Godunov is buried with
members of his family in a simple
tomb. It was originally inside the
cathedral, but later alterations put it
outside. In Soviet times the tomb was
opened and it was discovered that
Boris Godunov’s skull was missing.
166  BEYOND MOSCOW

Exploring the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius

In the 14th century, Sergius of Radonezh built a small wooden
church in the forests to the north of Moscow and consecrated
it to the Holy Trinity. Many pilgrims were attracted to the site
by reports of Sergius’ piety. He organized them into a
community and the Trinity Monastery was born. The
monastery expanded as it gained wealth and influence
and today the huge complex is enclosed by white walls
around 1.6 km (1 mile) long. Its stunning churches, grouped
around the spectacular Cathedral of the Assumption, are The fortified Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
seen from the southeast
among the most beautiful in Russia.
Ivan the Terrible commissioned
the cathedral in 1559 to celeb-
rate his defeat of the Mongols
at Kazan (see p21). It was
completed 26 years later to a
design inspired by Aristotele
Fioravanti’s Cathedral of the
Assumption (see pp60–61) in
the Kremlin. Painters from the
acclaimed Yaroslavl school of
artists, led by Dmitriy Grigorev,
took just 100 days to decorate
the lofty interior in 1684. Their
names are inscribed beneath a
fresco of the Last Judgement on
the west wall. The sumptuous
five-tiered iconostasis dates
from the same period but
incorporates a number of
icons from the 16th century.

Trinity Cathedral
This exquisite white cathedral
is decorated with kokoshniki
gables (see p46) above a triple-
The superb 17th-century iconostasis in the Cathedral of the Assumption banded frieze and is the oldest
stone building in the monastery.
Church of St Sergius refectory’s main façade features It was built over the tomb of
and Refectory a covered terrace with a wealth St Sergius in 1422, the year of
The monks’ refectory was built in of ornamentation. At the eastern his canonization.
1686–92 using money donated end of the refectory is the
by Peter the Great Church of St
and his half- Sergius. Its
brother, Ivan V, iconostasis was
in gratitude for brought here
the refuge given from Moscow’s
them by the Church of St
monastery during Nicholas on
the Streltsy Rebel- Baroque pillars on the Church of Ilinka in 1688.
lion (see p24). St Sergius and the Refectory Delicate fretwork
The exterior on the icono-
walls are divided into a series of stasis seems to be metal, but
panels, topped by carved scallop is actually made of wood.
shells and separated by pillars
decorated with sculpted vines. Cathedral of the Assumption
Each panel is painted so that it This magnificent cathedral,
looks as though it has three- with its central golden cupola
dimensional facets similar to surrounded by four blue, star-
those of the Faceted Palace spangled domes, is located at Christ in Majesty (1425–7) in the Trinity
(see p64) in the Kremlin. The the heart of the monastery. Cathedral’s iconostasis

St Sergius’ remains are now
encased in a silver shrine inside
the cathedral and are still a
focus for visiting pilgrims.
The original decoration of the
interior was the work of master
artists Andrey Rublev and Daniil
Chernyy. Most of their frescoes
have since been painted over.
Their iconostasis has survived,
but Rublev’s icon The Trinity
(1420s) is a copy. The original
is in the Tretyakov Gallery
(see pp120–23). Also in the
iconostasis are two icons by
renowned painter Simon
Ushakov: The Holy Face (1674)
and Christ Enthroned (1684).
Open rotunda over the holy spring, next to
the Chapel Over the Well
Other Churches
There are five smaller churches
within the monastery walls. The
oldest is the Church of the Holy
Spirit, built in 1476 by craftsmen
from Pskov (see p46), a town to
the northwest of Moscow. The
infirmary and its adjoining tent-
roofed Church of SS Zosima
and Savvatiy were constructed
in 1635–8.
The Chapel Over the Well
was built at the end of the
17th century over a holy spring.
The open rotunda next to it
was added in the 19th century.
Pilgrims still come to fill bottles
with holy water from the spring
beneath the rotunda.
Just in front of the Church
of St Sergius stands the small
Church of St Micah. This single-
domed church is named after
one of St Sergius’ pupils, who
is buried beneath it.
The Baroque Church of the
Virgin of Smolensk, a small,
BEYOND MOSCOW  167
The Holiest Monk
Sergius of Radonezh (c.1319–92) was born into a noble family but,
with his brother, withdrew from the world and founded the Trinity
Monastery. Sergius
was instrumental in
encouraging Russia’s
princes to unite against
the Mongol invaders and,
in 1380, Prince Dmitriy
Donskoy, commander of
the Russian army, asked
for his blessing before
attacking the Mongols at
Kulikovo (see p163). The
Russian victory, along with
the discovery that Sergius’
body was miraculously
unharmed in a Mongol
attack on the monastery A 16th-century icon of the appearance of
in 1408, led to Sergius’ the Virgin and Saints Peter and Paul to Sergius
canonization in 1422. of Radonezh
blue and white rotunda, was painted to appear faceted. In
built in 1745. The last of the the southwest corner of the
monastery’s churches to be monastery is the 18th-century
constructed, it houses the Palace of the Metropolitans. It
Icon of the Smolensk Virgin. was the first of the buildings to
come back into religious use
Palaces and Museums when the Soviets allowed the
Gifts from the tsars are among patriarchs and metropolitans
the monastic treasures in the to return in 1946.
former Sacristy and Treasury.
Visitors can see jewelled icon Towers and Gate Churches
covers, exquisite crosses, icons, The Trinity Monastery was
gospels in gilded covers, vest- originally fortified in the reign
ments and some wonderful of Ivan the Terrible (see p20).
tapestries, including the pall Its formidable walls are 12 m
from the coffin of St Sergius. (39 ft) high and date, in their
Built in the late 17th century present form, from the early
for Tsar Alexis Mikhailovich, the 17th century. The monastery’s
Tsar’s Apartments are now used main gate is in the Beautiful
as a theological college. Parts of Tower. The frescoes on its
the slightly shabby exterior are archway depict the life of
St Sergius. Behind
the Beautiful Tower
is the red-brick Gate
Church of St John
the Baptist.
At the north end
of the walls is the
Duck Tower, so
called because Peter
the Great shot ducks
from its windows.
The spire, with its
carved duck, and
the upper tiers were
added in 1672–86.
The soaring, five-
tiered, blue and
white bell tower
One of the frescoes depicting scenes from St Sergius’ life, was built between
on the archway of the Beautiful Tower 1741 and 1769.
168  BEYOND MOSCOW
7 Suzdal
Суздаль
Suzdal
200 km (124 miles) NE of Moscow.
* 12,100. £ Vladimir, then bus.
@ (see p227). ( Sun.
Nestling on the banks of
the Kamenka river, Suzdal
is the best preserved of the
Golden Ring (see p163) towns.
Its clusters of 17th- and
18th-century whitewashed
churches, built by local
merchants, and its streets
of low, wooden houses with
traditional carved eaves and
windows mean that it is also
one of the most attractive
towns in the area.
The first records of Suzdal date
from 1024. Shortly afterwards
the founder of Moscow, Prince
Yuriy Dolgorukiy (see p19), built
the town’s kremlin on a grassy
rampart above the river. Its
dominant building is the
Cathedral of the Nativity with
its blue, star-spangled domes.
Although it was built in the 13th
century, most of the current
building dates from the 16th
century. The south and west
doors are of gilded copper,
etched with biblical scenes.
Frescoes dating from the 13th
to the 17th centuries cover the
interior walls. Next to it stands
the former archbishop’s palace,
Icon of St Nicholas, dating from the 15th century, in
the Suzdal Museum
century, it was completed in
the reign of Basil III in 1510–
14. Its retreat houses offer
overnight lodgings.
On the southwest edge of
town is the Suzdal Museum
of Wooden Architecture an
open-air exhibition of wooden
buildings brought from all
over Russia. Particularly im-
pressive is the Church of the
Transfiguration, built in 1756.
With domes made with over-
lapping shingles, it was built
The Cathedral of the Nativity, in without using any metal nails.
the grounds of Suzdal’s kremlin
E Suzdal Museum
now the Suzdal Museum. Its Ulitsa Kremlyovskaya. Tel (492) 312
collection of icons and ancient 0444. Open Wed–Mon. &
8 English (book in advance).
art is housed in the main room,
the magnificent Chamber of the E Museum of Arts and Crafts
Cross, one of the largest un- Ulitsa Lenina. Tel (492) 312 0444.
supported vaults in Russia. To Open Tue–Sun. & 8 English (book
the northeast, on Suzdal’s main in advance).
street, a long, arcaded building E Suzdal Museum of Wooden
dating from 1806–11 was the Architecture
former merchants’ quarters. Ulitsa Kremlyovskaya. Tel (492) 312
Suzdal also contains five 0444. Open Wed–Mon. &
important religious foundations, 8 English (book in advance).
including the Monastery of
St Euthymius. Once the richest
in the area, with more than
10,000 serfs at its disposal,
the monastery has a com-
manding position in the
north of Suzdal, overlooking
the town. Its fortified walls are
almost 6 m (20 ft) thick. The
monks’ cells now house the
Museum of Arts
and Crafts, which
has an impressive
collection, including
religious paintings The Golden Gate, the entrance to Vladimir
and jewellery. from the Moscow road
To the south of
the monastery is the 8 Vladimir
Aleksandrovskiy Владимир
Convent. It was Vladimir
originally founded in
170 km (106 miles) NE of Moscow. *
1240, but it burned 360,000. £ @ (see p227). ( daily.
down and was rebuilt
in the 17th century. Founded on the Klyazma river
Its Cathedral of the by Prince Vladimir Monomakh
Ascension was built at (see p163) in the late 11th
this time by Nataliya century, Vladimir really began
Naryshkina, mother to flourish during the rule of his
of Peter the Great. son, Prince Yuriy Dolgorukiy (see
Rising from the p19). In 1157 Dolgorukiy’s heir,
meadows directly Prince Andrey Bogolyubskiy,
across the river here brought his court here and
is the Convent of made it the capital of the new
the Intercession. principality of Vladimir-Suzdal.
Founded in the 14th The town’s heyday was in the
 BEYOND MOSCOW  169

Chernyy are still visible under

the choir’s gallery on the west
wall. A short distance away is
the Cathedral of St Dmitriy,
built in 1194–7 by Prince
Vsevolod III. A single-domed
church of white limestone, its
exterior is covered with more
than a thousand bas-reliefs
featuring griffons, centaurs,
prancing lions and fantastic
birds and plants, as well as a
portrait of Vsevolod and his
family. Over the window on
the south wall is a carving
of Alexander the Great
ascending to heaven, a
symbol of princely authority.

9 Yasnaya Polyana
Ясная Поляна
Yasnaya Polyana
The 12th-century Cathedral of the Assumption in Vladimir
200 km (125 miles) S of Moscow.
Tel (48751) 761 1 8. Open 9am–
12th and early 13th centuries in 1158–60, high above the 5pm Tue–Sun. Closed last Tue of
and most of the architectural banks of the Klyazma, it was the month. @ (see p227). & ^
monuments worth seeing date originally decorated with 8 English (book in advance). - =
from this period. Like Suzdal, prodigious quantities of gold
Vladimir was later eclipsed by and silver, precious gems, The beloved country estate
Moscow in political importance, majolica tiles and white stone of Leo Tolstoy (see p136), Yasnaya
but it remained a significant carvings. Craftsmen came Polyana is located in a peaceful
trading centre. Today, Vladimir from all over Russia, Poland valley surrounded by forests.
looks like any industrial city of and the Holy Roman Empire Tolstoy was born on the estate
the Soviet era, although, to contribute to what was in 1828. From the mid-1880s
fortunately, the chemical plants then the tallest building he spent the summers here
and tyre factories are situated in Russia. The coronation of with his wife and children, and
at some distance from many of Russia’s moved here permanently
the picturesque old princes, including without his family in 1901. The
part of the town, Dmitriy Donskoy house and its contents are
with its fine views. (see p20) and much as they were in Tolstoy’s
When approaching Aleksandr Nevskiy (see day. The rooms on show include
Vladimir by the p19), took place here. the studies, where Tolstoy wrote
Moscow road, the The cathedral was War and Peace and Anna
visitor will still enter damaged by fire in Karenina. Other buildings
the city through 1185, and when it was include the Dom Volkonskovo,
the splendid Golden repaired, four domes where the serfs lived, and a
Gate. This was con- A detail of the carved were added. When, in pavilion for guests. Temporary
structed in 1164, bas-reliefs on the the 15th century, Ivan exhibitions are housed in the
and combines the Cathedral of St Dmitriy III wanted to build the former peasants’ school.
functions of both Cathedral of the
triumphal arch and defensive Assumption in Moscow (see
bastion. The icons above the pp60–61), he instructed his
archway were whitewashed Italian architect, Aristotele
by the Communists and have Fioravanti, to use the cathedral
been restored. The gate now of the same name in Vladimir
contains a small exhibition as his model.
on military history. The famous Icon of the Virgin
A short stroll down the main of Vladimir (see p63) used to
street takes the visitor past the hang in the cathedral, but it is
19th-century trading arcades now in the Tretyakov Gallery (see
and shops to the Cathedral p123). However, some superb
of the Assumption, Vladimir’s frescoes by medieval masters Leo Tolstoy’s house on his beloved family
most famous monument. Built Andrey Rublev and Daniil estate, Yasnaya Polyana
 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

Where to Stay 172–179

Where to Eat and Drink 180–191
Shops and Markets 192–197
Entertainment in Moscow 198–203
172  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
The hotel situation in Moscow has improved
dramatically since Russia became an
independent state in 1992. At the top end
of the market, countless new hotels have
been built and grand old residences
renovated, raising the standard of
accommodation considerably. The mid-range
sector has seen old Soviet hotels refurbished
to Western standards and small family hotels
established; while at the lower end, hostels
have sprung up in converted apartments
The stunning marble reception area at the Radisson Royal (see p178)
Types of Hotel
Moscow’s accommodation
options fall into several broad
categories: luxury hotels;
mid-price and chain hotels;
and budget options such
as hostels, apartments
and small hotels.
Luxury hotels are often
foreign-owned or run as joint
Russian–Western ventures.
Many occupy historical
buildings (some pre- and
some post-Revolution) and
have rooms combining period
furniture with modern facilities.
Service is similar to that in the
best hotels in the West, but a
double room will set you back
at least 10,000 roubles a night.
Hotels of this type are often
referred to as Western-style.
The past decade has seen
a surge in the availability of
central hostels and mid-range
hotels, so it is no longer
necessary to venture further
Radisson Royal, also known as Ukraina Hotel, housed in one of Stalin’s magnificent Seven Sisters skyscrapers
throughout the city. The hotels on pages
176–9 are arranged under five themes
(historical, boutique, modern, luxury and
chain), and listed by area and then by price.
Prices are subject to rapid change, so always
check in advance. There are travel and
accommodation agencies, and it is possible
to make a reservation at most hotels directly
by phone or email. The best method,
however, is to book in advance through
a reliable online booking site.
reflected in the price. When
choosing a hotel, visitors should
think about how they want to
get around the city and take
into consideration whether or
not they will have a car, whether
they want to get to the main
sights on foot, or if their ability
to read Cyrillic script is adequate
to allow them to use buses and
the metro with confidence.
Making a Reservation
To obtain a tourist visa, you
must book a room in advance
(see p206). However, this is little
more than a formality that can
be dealt with by a visa or travel
agency; once in Moscow, it is
afield for budget options. It is possible to walk into any hotel
also possible to rent out an and book a room on the spot.
apartment short-term, which In practice, though, it is always
can be a cheaper way to stay in best to make arrangements
a central location (see p175). before arriving because many
Fans of Soviet-era service and of the more expensive hotels
design may be disappointed to may be booked up well in
learn that in recent years most advance, particularly in the
ex-Soviet hotels, including the
iconic Hotel Ukraina, now the
Radisson Royal (see p178),
located in one of Moscow’s
Seven Sisters buildings, have
been redeveloped as mid-range
or top-of-the-range luxury
hotels. The old Intourist Hotel
on Tverskaya ulitsa has been
turned into a luxury Ritz-
Carlton (see p178).
Location of Hotels
Many of the hotels and hostels
listed are within a 15-minute
drive or metro ride of Moscow’s
city centre; others are a fair The sleek bar area at the Ibis Moscow
distance away, and this will be Paveletskaya (see p179)

The stylish entrance to the historic Hotel Golden Apple (see p176)
event of a major exhibition,
while smaller hotels and hostels
may have limited availability.
All the hotels listed in this
guide can be booked through
online reservation sites such as
www.booking.com and will
accept reservations by phone
or email. All the luxury hotels,
well-known chain hotels and
hostels have staff who speak
reasonable English. Luxury
hotels will usually ask for a credit
card number as a deposit.
Facilities
All luxury hotels provide the
facilities you would expect to
find in an expensive hotel in the
West. These include Wi-Fi,
satellite television, business
facilities such as meeting rooms
and office services, mini-bars, a
laundry service and 24-hour
room service. All rooms have a
bathroom with a bath or
shower, or both. Fitness facilities
and swimming pools are
increasingly widespread,
although they are not
necessarily up to Western
standards in the cheaper
establishments. Most hotels
have air-conditioned rooms.
All the larger hotels have
bars and restaurants, and the
luxury hotels feature some of
the city’s finest restaurants, but
do not expect to find a bargain
here. Continental breakfasts are
the norm in luxury hotels and
are usually served between
7:30am and 9:30am.
W H E R E TO S TAY
Apartments generally have
free Wi-Fi access and flatscreen
televisions, and they are
comfortably furnished, often
with a sofa bed for additional
guests. Cooking facilities can
range from just a kettle and
microwave to a fully equipped
kitchen replete with dishwasher
and washing machine, so it’s
well worth enquiring in advance
about what’s available. Unlike
hotel accommodation,
apartments are usually serviced
and cleaned twice a week or
not at all for shorter stays.
Hostels vary enormously in
terms of size and standards, but
all offer free Wi-Fi as standard,
and most have communal
kitchens and living areas. Single-
sex dormitories are available at
a few places, but mixed dorms
Spacious room with a view at the Ararat Park Hyatt (see p178)
 173
are more commonplace.
The better hostels are likely
to provide individual lockers,
access to a washing machine
and, sometimes, hotel-style
key cards for dormitories.
Beware that smaller hostels
may have limited shared
bathroom facilities, which
can cause lengthy queues
in the mornings.
Registration
Foreign visitors to Russia receive
a migration card upon arrival
and are required by Russian law
to register with the authorities
within 7 days. The purpose of
the registration is to notify the
immigration authorities where
visitors are staying during their
visit to Russia. Failure to do so
can cause delays and the
possibility of a fine when
leaving the country. Hotels
are legally obliged to register
guests upon arrival and
sometimes charge a fee of
between 500 and 1,500 roubles
for this service; the same applies
for apartment rentals. You will
be asked to show your passport,
Russian visa and migration card.
Those staying with friends or
Couchsurfing can either be
registered by their hosts or
register themselves at the
nearest police station, usually
for a nominal fee. Alternatively,
visitors can arrange registration
with a travel and visa agency in
Moscow, such as Real Russia.
174  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Room with neutral colours and clean lines at Kadashevskaya (see p178)
Payment
The rates given in this book
are the standard rates quoted
by each individual hotel.
However, it is worth noting
that business guests usually
have cheaper rates negotiated
at the expensive hotels by their
companies, and that leisure
weekend discounts are available
at many luxury hotels, since
most of their clients are
business people who stay only
during the week. The most
efficient way for individual
travellers to book a room is
via online reservation sites
such as www.booking.com,
which guarantee that your
payment is secure and offer the
best possible range of prices.
Luxury hotels often quote
prices in a foreign currency
(usually US dollars). However,
The Hilton Leningradskaya, housed in an imposing Stalinist skyscraper (see p178)
it is illegal to pay in any currency
other than roubles. The easiest
way to pay in these hotels is
undoubtedly with a debit or
credit card, which eliminates
the need to carry around large
amounts of money. Beware
that luxury hotels sometimes
quote prices exclusive of VAT
and city tax; this can add more
than 30 per cent to the bill.
Visitors should also note that
tax rates in Russia are liable
to change at short notice.
Breakfast is rarely included
in room prices and can be
another significant addition
to the bill. The cost of making
phone calls (international or
local) from a hotel room can
also be high. The local phone
network (see p214) is cheaper,
so buy a phone card and call
from a public payphone.
Travelling with Children
Although the Russians idolize
their children, this rarely seems
to translate into hotel facilities
for families. In most hotels it is
possible to have an extra bed
or cot put in a room for an
additional fee, and most
luxury hotels will also provide
babysitters. Generally, however,
hotels are more interested in
business guests or tour
groups, so do not expect
to find extensive facilities
for children or favourable
room rates for families.
Disabled Travellers
Most well-known chain and
luxury hotels in Moscow
have wheelchair access, as
well as rooms equipped for
disabled guests. However, it
would be wise for disabled
travellers to check in advance
with their travel agents or the
hotels to enquire about any
specific needs.
Security
While many of the dangers of
life in Moscow are exaggerated,
hotels take security very
seriously. Do not be surprised
to see armed security staff with
walkie-talkies patrolling the
entrances of even the most
refined establishments. Luxury
and chain hotels all have safe-
deposit boxes, and most hostels
provide individual lockers, so

Bunk beds with privacy curtains at the
Seasons Hostel (see p177)
guests generally have few
problems with personal safety.
However, as in other cities,
tourists are often targets for
petty criminals. Take particular
care when leaving the hotel,
since pickpockets are known
to hang around outside high-
end tourist hotels.
Apartments
A good alternative to a hotel
is a serviced apartment, which
can be an attractive option for
anyone who prefers to self-
cater, particularly for families
because you are not required
to stick to set mealtimes as
you would in a hotel. The
length of time you can stay
is usually flexible, and some
companies offer good long-
term deals. Kvarthouse
Apartments and Adrimi
Apartments rent out flats from
4,000 roubles per night, while
Moscow Suites Apartments
and Weekend Inn Apartments
cater for high-end travellers,
with Western-style apartments
in the centre of town.
Budget Accommodation
Options for travellers on a
tight budget have improved
enormously with the advent
of Couchsurfing (www.couch
surfing.org) and the rise of
conveniently located hostels
at bargain prices.
Places such as Godzillas,
iVAN Hostel, Seasons Hostel
and Z Hostel are of a good
standard and specifically cater
to budget travellers, charging
W H E R E TO S TAY  175
around 700 roubles per person DIRECTORY
per night for dormitory
accommodation. Private Registration
doubles with shared bathrooms Real Russia
in hostels are usually around 9 Bolshaya Mariyinaskaya.
2,500 roubles, while decent Tel (499) 653 8574.
low-end hotels charge 3,500– ∑ realrussia.co.uk
5,000 roubles for an en-suite
double. Hostels are generally Apartments
clean and great for socializing;
most include amenities such Adrimi Apartments
as breakfast, linen, Wi-Fi, Tel (495) 795 6176.
entertainment and the use ∑ adrimi.ru
of a kitchen in the price. Kvarthouse Apartments
Tel (929) 616 0134.
Recommended Hotels Moscow Suites Apartments
Tel (495) 233 6429.
Moscow has its fair share
∑ moscowsuites.ru
of new buildings housing
luxury or modern mid-range Weekend Inn Apartments
establishments, as well as old Tel (495) 648 4047.
hotels in historical buildings ∑ weekend-inn.ru
full of character. The venues that
have been listed on pages Budget
176–9 are the best from the Accommodation
following categories: historical; Godzillas
boutique; modern; luxury; and Bolshoy Karetnyy 6. Tel (495) 699
chain. They are listed by price 4223. ∑ godzillashostel.com
within each area. These
lodgings have been featured iVAN Hostel
Petrovskiy pereulok 1/30, Apt. 23,
for their excellent service,
Tverskoy. Tel (916) 407 1178.
wide-ranging facilities or
∑ ivanhostel.com
unique character.
Throughout the listings Seasons Hostel
certain establishments have Bolshaya Ordynka 13/9,
been highlighted as DK Choice. Zamoskvoreche.
These offer a particularly special Tel (495) 959 4742.
and memorable experience ∑ seasonshostel.com
such as great views, period Z Hostel
features, historical significance, Ulitsa Znamenka 15, Apt. 16,
special setting, unique Khamovniki. Tel (495) 691 9844.
ambience or a combination ∑ z-hostel.ru
of these factors.
A modern and centrally located property rented by Moscow Suites Apartments (see p177)
176  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Stay
Hotel Peter I ȹȹȹ Price Guide
Historical Ulitsa Neglinnaya 17, Tverskoy, 127051 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Tel (495) 925 3050 Map 3 A4 high season for a standard double room,
Tverskaya ∑ hotel-peter1.ru/eng inclusive of service charges and taxes.
iVAN Hostel ȹ Housed in a splendid 19th- ȹ up to ȹ5,000
Petrovskiy pereulok 1/30, Apt. 23, century building, this high-end ȹȹ ȹ5,000 to ȹ10,000
ȹȹȹ over ȹ10,000
Tverskoy, 107031 hotel has a spa and free Wi-Fi.
Tel (916) 407 1178 Map 2 F4
∑ ivanhostel.com Savoy ȹȹȹ
Mixed and single-sex dorms have Rozhdestvenka ulitsa, 3/6, Bld. 1, Red Square and
modern furnishings in this hostel Meshchansky, 109012 Kitay Gorod
in a characterful old building. Tel (495) 620 8500 Map 3 A3
∑ savoy.ru Kitai-Gorod Hotel ȹȹ
Marco Polo Presnja ȹȹ First opened in 1913, this hotel – a Lubyansky proezd 25, Bld. 2,
Spiridonyevsky pereulok 9, favourite of the Communist elite – Basmanny, 101000
Presnensky, 123104 now attracts Hollywood A-listers. Tel (495) 991 9971 Map 3 B5
Tel (800) 9733 4226 Map 2 D4 ∑ otel-kg.ru
∑ presnja.ru/thehotel-en.html This Soviet-era establishment
Built in 1904, this elegant hotel Further Afield offers tastefully styled rooms and
has comfortable, individually Godzilla’s Hostel ȹ good service.
styled rooms. Ulitsa Bolshoi Karetny 6
Tel (495) 699 4223 Map 3 A3
Akvarel ȹȹȹ ∑ godzillashostel.com Zamoskvoreche
Stoleshnikov pereulok 12, Bld. 3, This legendary, fun hostel with Weekend Inn Apartments ȹ
Tverskoy, 107031 friendly staff offers rooms and Ulitsa Pyatnitskaya 10 Str.1 ,
Tel (495) 502 9430 Map 2 F4 mixed dorms. Zamoskvorechye, 115035
∑ hotelakvarel.ru Tel (495) 648 4047 Map 7 B2
On a quiet cobbled street full of Golden Apple ȹȹȹ ∑ weekend-inn.ru
historical buildings, this hotel has Ulitsa Malaya Dmitrovka 11, Stylishly furnished rooms and
modern, understated rooms. Tverskoy, 127006 whole apartments are available
Tel (495) 980 7000 Map 2 E3 at this hotel. Outstanding service.
∑ goldenapple.ru/en
DK Choice Each floor corresponds to a colour Medea Hotel ȹȹ
National ȹȹȹ of the rainbow at this stylish hotel Pyatnitsky pereulok 4/1,
Ulitsa Mokhovaya 15/1, in a 19th-century building. Zamoskvorechye, 115184
Tverskoy, 125009 Tel (495) 232 4898 Map 7 B3
Tel (495) 258 7000 Map 6 F1 ∑ medea-hotel.ru/en
∑ national.ru This small, comfortable hotel in
A fabulous hotel oozing period Boutique an 1860 building has Art
charm, the National was briefly Nouveau features.
home to the first Soviet Arbatskaya
government in 1918; Lenin Mercure Arbat ȹȹ
stayed in room 107 for a week. Smolenskaya plosсhad 6, Further Afield
Today it boasts fantastic Kremlin Arbat, 121099 Blues Hotel ȹ
views, antique furniture and Tel (495) 225 0025 Map 5 C1 Ulitsa Dovatora 8, Khamovniki,
high-ceilinged rooms, a lovely ∑ mercure.com 119048
spa centre and superb service. Rooms are spacious and elegantly Tel (495) 961 1161
furnished here. The restaurant ∑ eng.blues-hotel.ru
serves French and Russian cuisine. A cosy family-run hotel, Blues has
Peking ȹȹȹ modern decor and a good
Ulitsa Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, restaurant, The Crazy Hunter.
Presnensky, 123001
Tel (880) 0250 0550 Map 2 D3 Congress-Park Volynskoe ȹȹ
∑ hotelpeking.ru Ulitsa Starovolynskaya 9, 119501
Occupying a striking Stalinist Tel (499) 271 2802
building, the Peking will transport ∑ volynskoye.ru/en
you back to Soviet times. Surrounded by lovely gardens,
this elegant hotel is just the
place for those seeking some
Red Square and peace and quiet.
Kitay Gorod
Danilovskaya ȹȹ
Sverchkov 8 Hotel ȹ Bolshoy Starodanilovskiy
Sverchkov pereulok 8, Bld.1 , pereulok 5, 115191
Basmanny, 101000 Tel (495) 954 0503
Tel (495) 625 4978 Map 3 C4 ∑ danilovsky.ru/eng.htm
∑ sverchkov-8.ru In a park next to Danilovskiy
This cosy hotel in a lovely monastery, this hotel fuses
renovated mansion is comfortable, Adrimi Apartments, offering spacious, modern style with a 12th-
despite showing signs of age. well-equipped accommodation century setting .
 W H E R E TO S TAY  177

Gallery Avenue ȹȹ
Ulitsa Shchepkina 32 Str. 1,
Meshchansky, 129090
Tel (495) 510 6737 Map 3 B2
∑ hotelgalery.ru/avenue_en/61
With murals and bright furniture,
this hotel has a quirky feel.

Gallery Park ȹȹ
Ulitsa Derbenevskaya 11A, Bld.17,
115114
Tel (495) 788 3676 Map 8 E5
∑ hotelgalery.ru
This hotel has lovely design
features, with plenty of natural
light and reclaimed bricks.

Vorontsovsky ȹȹ
Vorontsovsky pereulok 5/7, Bld. 2, Elegantly furnished room in the Golden Apple
Tagansky, 109044
Tel (495) 663 9929 Map 8 E4 Home Hotel – Kamergersky ȹ
∑ vorontsovsky.ru/about-hotel Kamergerskiy pereulok 5, Apt. 11, DK Choice
A hotel with stylish, comfortable Tverskoy, 125009 Seasons Hostel ȹ
rooms and very large bathrooms. Tel (495) 646 1665 Map 2 F5 Bolshaya Ordynka, 13/9, 115035
∑ at-kamergersky.ru Tel (495) 959 4742 Map 7 B2
Golden Ring ȹȹȹ This small, centrally located hotel ∑ seasonshostel.com
Ulitsa Smolenskaya 5, has simply furnished rooms and A spacious hostel boasting
Khamovniki, 119121 shared bathroom facilities. bunks with individual curtains,
Tel (495) 725 0100 Map 5 C2 reading lights and lockers. There
∑ hotel-goldenring.ru/eng Pushkin ȹȹ are three bathrooms and a large
Fully refurbished to five-star Nastasyinskiy pereulok 5, Bld. 1, kitchen and dining area. Enjoy
standards, this Soviet-era hotel Tverskoy, 127006 home-made bread for breakfast.
has fantastic city views. Tel (495) 201 0222 Map 2 E3
∑ otel-pushkin.ru
Hotel Garden Ring ȹȹȹ A comfortable hotel with high Wals Hotel ȹ
Prospekt Mira 14, Bld. 2, standards and helpful staff. The Ulitsa Dubininskaya 35, 115054
Meshchansky, 129090 restaurant serves Russian and Tel (495) 959 6707 Map 7 C5
Tel (495) 988 3460 Map 3 B2 European fare. A decent-value option, Wals
∑ gardenringhotel.ru Hotel is in a convenient location
A great-value hotel in a typical with excellent transport
Moscow mansion, with a spa. Red Square and connections. It has an on-site café.
Kitay Gorod
Aquamarine ȹȹ
Day and Night Hostel ȹ Ozerkovskaya naberezhnaya 26,
Modern Luchnikov pereulok 7/4, Bld. 6, 115184
Basmanny, 101000 Tel (495) 580 2828 Map 7 B2
Arbatskaya Tel (499) 504 8897 Map 3 B5 ∑ aquamarinehotel.ru
Landmark Hostel Arbat ȹ ∑ daynighthostel.com A tranquil hotel with smart
Starovagankovsky pereulok 15 This central hostel with smart, facilities and a restaurant.
Tel (499) 653 7044 Map 6 F1 though slightly cramped
∑ landmarkhostel.ru/en/ interiors offers both mixed
An immaculate hostel with dorms and twin rooms. Further Afield
mixed and women-only dorms. Ananas Mini Hotel ȹ
Capital House ȹȹ Ulitsa Barklaya 13/1, Filevsky Park,
Moscow Suites Apartments ȹȹ Bolshoy Cherkasskiy pereulok 4/1, 121309
22 ultisa Noviy Arbat, 119019 Tverskoy, 109012 Tel (903) 112 4499
Tel (495) 233 6429 Map 6 F1 Tel (495) 739 0449 Map 3 B5 ∑ hotelananas.ru
∑ moscowsuites.ru ∑ us.capitalhouse.su/ Basic, good-value rooms are set
These spotless, central apartments Rooms are small and basic, but over five floors, but with no lift.
have kitchens and all mod cons. spotless, at this hotel. In the
Free airport pick-up is included. morning, pleasant staff serve Hostel University ȹ
your choice of breakfast in bed. Prospect Vernadskogo 9 ap. 8, 119911
Tel (926) 353 0363
Tverskaya Popular with students, this basic
Element ȹ Zamoskvoreche but well-maintained hostel has
Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya 24/1, Adrimi Apartments ȹ large single-sex dorms.
Bld. 5, Presnensky, 125009 Ulitsa Bolshaya
Tel (495) 988 0064 Map 2 D5 Serpukhovskaya, 101000 Kvarthouse Apartments
∑ hotel-element.ru Tel (495) 795 6176 Map 7 B5 Leninsky ȹ
A great-value hotel in an ∑ adrimi.ru Ulitsa Ordzhonikidze 6/9, 115419
excellent location, Element offers These large, furnished apartments Tel (929) 616 0134
smart and clean – if rather small – have full kitchen facilities. Staff are An immaculate, roomy apartment
rooms and cheerful service. on hand to answer queries. with excellent facilities.
For more information on types of hotel see pages 172–5
178  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Lomonosov
Michurinskiy prospekt 34,
Ramenki, 119192
Tel (495) 589 0809
∑ hotel-lomonosov.ru/en
This simple, clean hotel has
classical decor and large rooms.
RealTimeSchool Hostel ȹ
Ulitsa Nezhinskaya 5, 119501
Tel (495) 442 5966
Within a wooded park, this hostel
in a Soviet-era building offers
great value.
Versal na Kutuzovskom
Ploshchad Pobedy 1 E, 121293
Tel (903) 716 9100
∑ hotel-versali.com
A lovely small hotel with neatly
furnished rooms, a shared guest
kitchen and attentive staff.
Victory Hostel ȹ
2 Pavlovskiy pereulok 26, entrance 1,
3rd Floor, Apt. 3, 115093
Tel (916) 747 4664
∑ victoryhostel.com
Three dorm rooms, each with a
shared bathroom, make up this
colourful, well-run hostel.
AST Hof ȹȹ
Ulitsa Bolshaya Filevskaya 25,
Filevsky Park, 125309
Tel (495) 744 0700
∑ asthof.ru/en
It may have seen better days, but
this functional hotel is reasonable
value and close to a metro station.
Radisson Slavyanskaya ȹȹ
Ploshchad Evropi 2, 121059
Tel (495) 941 8020
∑ radisson.ru
High standards in keeping with
the Radisson chain can be
enjoyed at this comfortable hotel.
Luxury
Arbatskaya
DK Choice
Lotte ȹȹȹ
Novinskiy bulvar 8, Bld. 2,
Arbat, 121099
Tel (495) 745 1000 Map 2 D5
∑ lottehotel.com
This hugely opulent central
hotel boasts vast, sumptuously
furnished rooms, an excellent
spa centre with underground
pool and two splendid
restaurants featuring menus
prepared by a Michelin-starred
chef. Part of a South Korean
hotel chain; the service
standards are second to none.
For key to prices see page 176
ȹ Tverskaya
Ararat Park Hyatt ȹȹȹ
Ulitsa Neglinnaya 4,
Meshchansky, 109012
Tel (495) 783 1234 Map 3 A4
∑ moscow.park.hyatt.com
Close to Red Square, this hotel has
a rooftop lounge with city views.
Intercontinental Tverskaya ȹȹȹ
Ulitsa Tverskaya 22, Tverskoy, 125009
Tel (495) 787 8887 Map 2 E3
∑ ihg.com
This stylish hotel has a spa and a
lovely restaurant.
ȹ
Metropol ȹȹȹ
Teatralny proezd 2, Tverskoy, 109012
Tel (499) 501 7800 Map 3 A5
∑ metropol-moscow.ru
Lavish furnishings bordering on
the kitsch, and excellent service Hand-carved wooden ceiling and marble
can be enjoyed here. Free parking. staircase at the Hilton Leningradskaya
Ritz-Carlton ȹȹȹ
Tverskaya 3, Tverskoy, 125009 Further Afield
Tel (495) 225 8888 Map 2 E3 Crowne Plaza ȹȹ
∑ ritzcarlton.com Krasnopresnenskaya naberezhnaya
An elegant hotel with impeccable 12, Presnensky, 123610
service and views of Red Square. Tel (495) 258 2222 Map 1 B5
∑ cpmow.ru
High standards prevail at this
Red Square and vast, good-value hotel in the
Kitay Gorod World Trade Centre.
Nikolskaya Moscow ȹȹȹ Hilton Leningradskaya ȹȹȹ
Nikolskaya 12, Tverskoy, 109012 Ulitsa Kalanchevskaya 21/40,
Tel (495) 967 7776 Map 3 A5 Krasnoselsky, 107078
∑ hotelnikolskaya.com Tel (495) 627 5550 Map 4 D2
The lavish, elegant interior of this ∑ hilton.com
hotel features lots of gold leaf. This colossal Stalinist skyscraper
still boasts the original hand-
carved wooden ceiling in its
Zamoskvoreche lobby and Russian Empire-style
Baltschug Kempinski ȹȹȹ furniture throughout.
Ulitsa Baltschug 1, 115035
Tel (495) 287 2000 Map 7 B2
∑ kempinski.com DK Choice
Enjoy elegant decor and river Radisson Royal ȹȹȹ
views from the north-facing rooms. Kutuzovsky prospekt 2/1,
Bld. 1, 121248
Kadashevskaya ȹȹȹ Tel (495) 221 5555 Map 5 A2
Kadashevskaya naberezhnaya 26, ∑ radisson.ru
Yakimanka, 115035 This magnificent hotel occupies
Tel (495) 287 8710 Map 7 A3 the second highest of Stalin’s
∑ kadashevskaya.com Seven Sisters skyscrapers (after
Many of the ultra-modern stylish Moscow State University).
rooms have delightful river views. Highlights include the 30th-
floor bar with stunning city
views, a superb restaurant, pool
DK Choice and the gleaming wall-to-
Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy ȹȹȹ wall marble reception area.
Kosmodamianskaya
naberezhnaya 52, Bld. 6, 115054
Tel (495) 787 9898 Map 7 C2 Renaissance Moscow
∑ swissotel.com/moscow Monarch Centre ȹȹȹ
This landmark hotel with top- Leningradsky prospekt 31, Bld. 1,
rate facilities towers over Begovoy, 125284
Moscow. Rooms with floor-to- Tel (749) 5995 0009
ceiling windows have ∑ marriott.com
spectacular city views, as does This tasteful hotel offers a lovely
the 34th-floor City Space bar. pool and spa area, and splendid
views from the rooftop terrace.
 W H E R E TO S TAY  179

Maxima Panorama ȹ Korston ȹȹ

Chain Ulitsa Masterkova 4, 115280 15 Kosygina ulitsa, 119334
Tel (495) 788 7272 Tel (800) 100 9989
Arbatskaya ∑ maximahotels.ru ∑ korston.ru
Arbat ȹȹ A hotel with small, well-kept Korston offers sweeping city
Plotnikov pereulok 12, rooms near Avtozavodskaya metro. views from its rooms. It is next
Khamovniki, 119002 door to a casino.
Tel (499) 271 2801 Map 6 D2 Maxima Zarya ȹ
∑ arbat.president-hotel.ru Ulitsa Gostinichnaya 4/9, 127106 Volga Apart Hotel ȹȹ
Despite its tired interior, Arbat Tel (495) 788 7272 Bolshaya Spasskaya ulitsa 4, Bld. 1,
offers good service and large ∑ maximahotels.com Krasnoselsky, 107078
rooms, and is close to the metro. This comfortable venue is a larger Tel (495) 783 9100 Map 3 C2
version of its nearby sister hotel. ∑ hotel-volga.com
In a renovated Soviet-era block,
Tverskaya Novotel Moscow Sheremetyevo the rooms here are simply
Assambleya Nikitskaya ȹȹȹ Airport ȹ furnished. There is a play area
Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya 12/2, Airport Sheremetyevo Vladenie 3, for children.
Presnensky, 125009 141400 Khimki
Tel (495) 933 5001 Map 2 D5 Tel (495) 626 5900 Courtyard by Marriott Moscow
∑ assambleya-hotels.ru ∑ novotel.com Paveletskaya ȹȹȹ
A spotless hotel, if rather on the This vast, high-standard hotel is Ulitsa Kozhevnicheskaya 8, Str. 3,
plain side, with attentive staff. near the airport’s train terminal. Zamoskvorechye, 115114
Tel (495) 287 7722 Map 8 D5
Courtyard Moscow Proton ȹ ∑ marriott.com
City Centre ȹȹȹ Ulitsa Novozavodskaya 22, A hotel with a bright, cheerful
Voznesenskiy pereulok 7, Filevsky Park, 121087 interior and polite, efficient staff.
Presnensky, 125009 Tel (495) 797 3300
Tel (495) 981 3300 Map 2 E5 ∑ protonhotel.ru/index.php/en Holiday Inn Lesnaya ȹȹȹ
∑ marriott.com Although rather characterless, this Ulitsa Lesnaya 15, Tverskoy, 125047
A pleasant hotel with spacious modern hotel has pleasant staff. Tel (495) 783 6500 Map 2 D2
rooms and modern amenities. ∑ holidayinn.com
Akademicheskaya ȹȹ This hotel with excellent business
Marriott Grand ȹȹȹ Ulitsa Donskaya 1, Yakimanka, 119049 facilities provides a reliable service.
Ulitsa Tverskaya 26/1, Tverskoy, 125009 Tel (495) 989 6009 Map 6 F5
Tel (495) 937 0000 Map 2 E3 ∑ maanhotels.ru/akademikalabout Katerina City ȹȹȹ
∑ marriott.com A hotel with basic amenities in a Shluzovaya naberezhnaya 6/1,
This classy hotel has slightly Soviet-era building. Zamoskvorechye, 115114
dated five-star facilities. Tel (495) 795 2444 Map 8 D4
Holiday Inn Vinogradovo ȹȹ ∑ katerinahotels.com/en
Dmitrovskoe Shosse A pleasant hotel with genuinely
Zamoskvoreche Vladenie 171, 127204 helpful staff and cosy rooms,
Ibis Moscow Centre Tel (495) 937 0670 some with river views.
Bakhrushina ȹȹ ∑ holidayinn.com
Ulitsa Bakhrushina 11, 115184 Amenities at this hotel include Sheraton Palace ȹȹȹ
Tel (495) 720 5301 Map 7 C4 mini-golf and tennis. Ulitsa 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 19,
∑ ibis.com Tverskoy, 125047
A modern hotel with attractive Ibis Moscow Paveletskaya ȹȹ Tel (495) 931 9700 Map 2 E3
wood decor in the public areas. Ulitsa Shchipok 22, Str. 1, ∑ sheratonpalace.ru
Zamoskvorechye, 115093 This is an immaculate
Ozerkovskaya ȹȹ Tel (495) 660 7500 modern hotel with high
Ozerkovskaya naberezhnaya 50, ∑ ibis.com standards and prices to match.
115054 A smart, modern hotel with A complimentary fruit basket
Tel (495) 951 9582 Map 7 C3 spacious, spotless rooms. is included.
∑ ozerkovskaya.com
In a lovely setting facing the river,
this hotel offers large rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Sadu ȹȹȹ

17 ulitsa Bolshaya Polyanka, Bld. 1,
Yakimanka, 119180
Tel (495) 644 4844 Map 7 A3
∑ parkinn.com
A well-run hotel popular with
business travellers.

Further Afield
Maxima Irbis ȹ
Ulitsa Gostinichnaya 1, 127106
Tel (495) 788 7272
∑ maximahotels.com
A good standard of comfort and
service are offered at this hotel. The Olympic-size swimming pool at the Radisson Royal
For more information on types of hotel see pages 174–5
180  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Although eating out was a rare privilege
during the Soviet era, and an unaffordable
luxury in the years immediately after
perestroika (restructuring), Russia has since
experienced an astonishing restaurant boom.
New places – from student cafés to exclusive
sushi restaurants – open and close every
week. All the major cuisines are represented,
including those from the former Soviet
Republics, such as Georgia, Armenia and
Uzbekistan. Visitors should have little trouble
finding a place that matches their taste and
budget. The following pages will help to
locate some of the best-quality food and
most exciting cuisine on offer in all price
categories. A detailed review of selected
restaurants is provided on pages 186–9, and
ideas for light meals are on pages 190–91.

Where to Eat What to Drink

Most of Moscow’s better-known
restaurants are located in the city
centre and, therefore, are fairly
easy to reach by metro. The area
around Tverskaya ulitsa (see p91)
has the highest concentration
and variety of restaurants, from
Russian and Georgian to Italian
and Japanese, as well as the
now-ubiquitous branches of
McDonald’s. Krasny Oktyabr, a
former chocolate factory across
the river from Kropotkinskaya,
is now home to the city’s most
fashionable restaurants and bars,
such as Bar Strelka (see p186).
Reading the Menu
Restaurants offering
international cuisine often
have menus in both Russian
and English. Waiting staff will
usually know enough English to
take orders. In smaller, local
eateries, a knowledge of the
Cyrillic alphabet will help with
deciphering the menu, since
many ingredients are phonetic
transcriptions of their
English equivalents.
Stolovaya 57, located within the splendid
GUM department store (see p187)
relatively inexpensive, are very
good options. Mediterranean
and other Western European
restaurants, especially Italian
ones, are increasingly popular.
Chinese and Indian food can
sometimes be overpriced and
of variable quality. However,
there are many excellent Asian
restaurants – particularly
Japanese, with sushi being a
fashionable food trend. Prices
are high, since the city
is landlocked and fresh fish
has to be flown in daily.
Vodka is the alcoholic drink
most often associated with
Russia. However, beer has
become more widely available,
and wine often accompanies
meals. Most restaurants offer
imported and local beer on
tap, along with a variety of
bottled options. Russian beer
is light and generally very
good; imported beer is often
overpriced. The better European
restaurants have commendable
wine lists, though good
imported wine tends to be
quite expensive. It is a shame
to visit Moscow without
sampling a bottle of Georgian
wine (see p185) in one of its
many Georgian eateries.
Payment and Tipping
One of the drawbacks of
eating out in Moscow is that
some restaurants, usually the
less touristy ones, only take
cash. This situation is changing,
but it is still a consideration
when deciding where to eat.
Generally restaurants that

Types of Cuisine
There are several excellent
Russian restaurants in Moscow,
such as Café Pushkin (see p187)
and Oblomov (see p188). The
best Russian fare is either
wholesome dishes and soups
from recipes passed down
from generation to generation,
or cured and salted fish, as well
as caviar, for which preparation
is more important at its source
rather than in the kitchen.
Georgian and Armenian cuisines,
both of which are delicious and Smart-casual interior of the popular Ragout (see p189)

serve Western or Asian cuisine
will accept credit cards, but it
is a good idea to call ahead
and check exactly which cards
are accepted and whether a
surcharge is applied. Prices
vary enormously – from around
200 roubles in a cheap cafeteria
(stolovaya), to closer to 3,500
roubles for exclusive restaurants.
Tipping is not as ingrained in
Russia as in other countries.
Keeping to international
standards of 10–15 per cent if
you are satisfied is appropriate,
although it is unnecessary to
leave more than a few hundred
roubles regardless of the total
expenditure. In Russian-style
restaurants or cafés, it is
acceptable to leave small
change, or nothing at all. Service
is rarely included in the bill.
Opening Times
Dinner is the main meal of the
day, but many restaurants in
Moscow have now adopted the
concept of the business lunch.
This often takes the form of a
fixed-price menu and can be
excellent value. Lunch is usually
served from noon until 4pm.
Most restaurants start serving
dinner at around 6pm and stop
taking orders at 10:30pm; some
family-run Georgian establish-
ments close their kitchens as
early as 9pm. Increasingly,
restaurants are staying open
until the early hours of the
morning, and some are even
open around the clock.
Making a Reservation
Most international and tourist-
oriented restaurants take
reservations – indeed, some
of the most popular ones
require them. Generally, it is
best to book ahead whenever
possible. However, some of the
most popular Georgian and
Caucasian restaurants do not
take reservations, and these can
be busy, especially at weekends.
Etiquette
Casual or semi-formal dress
is acceptable in almost every
Moscow restaurant. Russians
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Bar Strelka, offering picture-postcard views of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (see p186)
tend to overdress rather than
underdress, however, so it is
probably safer to err on the
formal side. Children are a rare
sight at expensive restaurants,
and most eateries do not have a
special menu for them. Moscow
does have a few family-style
restaurants, and many of the
Western-owned restaurants
provide children’s menus.
Vegetarians
Much of Russian cuisine consists
of meat dishes. Even salads
tend to contain meat, so the
best option for vegetarians is
often a beetroot or tomato
platter. Georgian cuisine,
featuring numerous excellent
bean and aubergine dishes, is
usually a better bet for non-
meat eaters. Restaurants are
increasingly taking into account
the demands of vegetarian
visitors, and European, Chinese
and Japanese eateries usually
have some items suitable for
vegetarians. There are a few
Stylish dining room of Chicago Prime
Steakhouse (see p187)
 181
vegetarian restaurants, such
as Jagannat (see p187) in
the city, and the standard
of these is rising.
Smoking
There are generally areas for
non-smokers in restaurants.
However, smoking during
meals is considered acceptable
in Russia, and smokers
sometimes pay scant regard
to non-smoking areas.
Disabled Persons
Few restaurants in Moscow
have facilities for disabled
visitors. Some restaurants are
located in basements, making
access an issue. It is always best
to phone in advance to check if
there is full disabled access.
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants on pages 186–9
have been carefully selected to
give a cross-section of the best
options in Moscow, from the
smartest fine-dining establish-
ments to more low-key
budget eateries. Despite the
bewildering number of
restaurants in the city, a few
stand out from the crowd; these
have been flagged as a DK
Choice. They offer something
particularly special, such as
exceptional cuisine, a
fashionable ambience, family-
friendly facilities, a historic
background, sumptuous
interiors or a combination
of these factors.
182  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

The Flavours of Moscow

Russia’s culinary reputation centres on warming stews, full of
wintery vegetables such as cabbage, beetroot and potatoes. Yet
Moscow was once the capital of a vast empire stretching from
Poland to the Pacific and this is reflected in the variety of food on
offer in the city. Aubergines (eggplants) and tomatoes, imported
from the Caucasus in the south, bring in the flavours of the
Mediterranean, while spices from Central Asia lend an exotic touch.
On the stalls of the city’s Central Market, crayfish and caviar sit
alongside honey from Siberia and melons and peaches from Georgia.
soup, solianka, in which pickled
cucumbers impart a delicious
salty taste. Pickled mushrooms
in sour cream make a regular
appearance on restaurant
menus, as do a variety of
fresh berry juices.
In a country where food
shortages are a fairly recent
memory, very little is wasted.
Kvas, a popular, mildly alcoholic
drink is frequently made at
home by fermenting stale bread
Wild mushrooms
with sugar and a scattering of
fruit. Summer visitors should
make a point of trying the
delicious cold soup okroshka,
which is based on kvas.
Russia is also a land with
hundreds of rivers and lakes,
and has a long tradition of fish
cookery. Dishes range from
simple soups, such as ukha,
to caviar and sturgeon, and
salmon cooked in a
bewildering variety of ways.

Caviar, the roe of sturgeon from Russia’s Blinis Pickled mushrooms Spiced feta Rye bread
warm southern waters Gherkins
Russian Countryside
Many Muscovites have small
country houses within easy
reach of the city, and spend
weekends from spring to early
winter lovingly tending their
immaculate vegetable gardens,
or combing the countryside for
wild berries and mushrooms.
Much of this bountiful harvest Pickled
is made into preserves and Salted fish Soured cream herring
pickles. There is a refreshing A typical spread of zakuski (cold appetizers)

Local Dishes and Specialities

Borscht (beetroot soup) and blinis
(buttery pancakes) with caviar
are perhaps two of the most
famous Russian dishes – one a
peasant dish which varies with
the availability of ingredients and
the other a staple for the week
leading up to Lent, when rich food
would be eaten to fatten up before the
fast. Much of Russia’s cuisine is designed to
make use of what is readily to hand or is
Beetroot warming and filling. A popular main
course is kulebiaka, a hearty fish pie, larded with eggs, rice, dill
and onion and encased in a buttery crust. Another popular dish Borscht Made with meat or
is beef stroganoff with its creamy mushroom sauce, which was vegetable stock, this beetroot
created in 18th-century St Petersburg by the chef of the wealthy soup is usually served with dill
Stroganoff family. and soured cream.

Market vegetable stall in central Moscow
The Caucasus
The former Soviet states of the
Caucasus – Georgia, Azerbaijan
and Armenia – are renowned
for their legendary banquets,
where the tables are laden
with an enormous quantity
and variety of food and drink.
These regions still supply
Russia’s cities with a tempting
range of fine subtropical
produce. Limes, lemons,
oranges, walnuts, figs,
pomegranates, peaches, beans,
salty cheeses and herbs are all
shipped in season to Moscow’s
markets and its many Georgian
restaurants. The cuisine of
Georgia, with its focus on
freshly grilled meats, pulses,
vegetables, yogurt, herbs and
nut sauces – including the
hallmark walnut sauce, satsivi –
is famously healthy and
Georgians are particularly
known for their longevity.
Kulebiaka Rich, buttery puff
pastry is wrapped around a mix
of fish, hard-boiled eggs, rice,
onion and chopped dill.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Central Asia
From the Central Asian
republics of the old Soviet
Union, which include
Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan
and Tajikistan, come a range
of culinary traditions based
on the nomadic lifestyles of
Freshly picked lingonberries from Russia’s
bumper autumn harvest
Pelmeni These meat-stuffed
dumplings may be served in
a clear broth, or with tomato
sauce or soured cream.
 183
Russia’s one-time overlords,
the Mongol or Tartar Hordes.
The meat of fat-tailed sheep,
which thrive in the desert air,
is used to make communal
piles of plov (pilaf ) around
which guests sit, eating in the
traditional manner with their
hands. Served in Moscow’s
Uzbek restaurants, it shares
the menu with delicious flat
breads, spicy noodle soups,
manti (tasty dumplings
reminiscent of Chinese
cuisine) and a variety
of melons and grapes,
which proliferate in the desert
oases, and apricots and nuts,
grown in the mountains.
ZAKUSKI
A traditional Russian meal
generally begins with zakuski,
a selection of cold appetizers.
These may include pickled
mushrooms (gribi), gherkins
(ogurtsi), salted herrings
(seliodka), an assortment of
smoked fish, blinis topped
with caviar, various vegetable
pâtés (sometimes known as
vegetable caviars), stuffed eggs
(yaitsa farshirovanniye), spiced
feta cheese (brinza), beetroot
salad (salat iz svyokla) and
small meat pies (pirozhki),
accompanied by rye bread and
washed down with shots of
vodka. A bowl of steaming soup
often follows, before the main
course reaches the table.
Kissel A mix of red berries is
used to make this soft, fruity
jelly, which is served topped
with a swirl of fresh cream.
184  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Moscow

Russia is renowned for vodka, which has been
manufactured there since the 14th or 15th century
and was possibly originally invented by Muscovite
monks. Vodka produced in Moscow has always been
considered to be the finest. Peter the Great (see p24)
was particularly fond of pepper and anise vodkas
and devised modifications to the distillation process
which greatly improved the quality of the finished drink.
Tea is Russia’s other national drink. Traditionally
made using a samovar and served black, tea has
been popular in Russia since the end of the 18th A 19th-century Russian peasant family drinking
century when it began to be imported from China. vodka and tea at their izba

Clear Vodka
Russian vodka is produced from grain, usually
wheat, although some rye is also used. Stolichnaya
is made from wheat and rye and is slighly
sweetened. Probably the best known of the
Russian vodkas, its name means “from the capital
city”. Moskovskaya is a high-quality, slightly fizzy
vodka, while Kubanskaya, originally produced by
the Cossacks, is slightly bitter. The Cristall distillery
in Moscow has been hailed as the finest in Russia
and produces super-premium versions of several
vodkas, including Stolichnaya
and Moskovskaya, as well as its
own vodka, Cristall. Vodka is
almost always served with food
in Russia, often with a traditional
range of accompaniments
called zakuski (see p183). These
specialities are usually spicy or
salty and their strong flavours
Stolichnaya Moskovskaya Stolichnaya Cristall complement vodka perfectly. Kubanskaya

Flavoured Vodka
The practice of flavouring vodka has entirely
practical origins. When vodka was first produced
commercially in the Middle Ages, the techniques
and equipment were so primitive that it was
impossible to remove all the impurities. This left
unpleasant aromas and flavours, which were
disguised by adding honey together with aromatic
oils and spices. As distillation techniques
improved, flavoured vodkas became a speciality
in their own right. Limonnaya, its taste deriving
from lemon zest, is one of the most traditional, as
is Pertsovka, flavoured with red
chilli pepper pods. Okhotnichya
(hunter’s vodka) has a wider
range of flavourings including
juniper, ginger and cloves. Starka
(old vodka) is a mixture of vodka,
brandy, port and an infusion of
apple and pear leaves, aged in
Pertsovka oak barrels. Limonnaya Okhotnichya Starka
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  185

Major Wine Regions

Vine-growing region Georgia
Moldova Armenia
Ukraine Azerbaijan
Russia International boundaries

Wine
The former Soviet Union was one of the world’s largest
producers of wine (vino). Many of its major wine regions,
however, are now within independent republics, but their
vintages are still popular in Moscow. A wide range of indigenous
grape varieties is cultivated in the different regions, along with
many types found in other parts of the vine-growing world.
Georgia and Crimea (in southeastern Ukraine) have traditionally
produced the best wines, although Georgian wines are difficult
to find in Moscow due to frosty relations between Georgia and
Russia. Moldova produces white, sparkling wines in the
south and central regions, and the south is also
known for its red wines. Since 1799 Moldova
has also produced vast amounts of a sweet,
Georgian wines Shampanskoe sparkling wine called shampanskoe.

Other Alcoholic Drinks

Originally a by-product of wine-making, brandy (konyak) only began
to be made commercially in Russia in the 19th century. Among the
ex-Soviet republics, Georgia and Armenia both produce brandy.
Armenian is considered the finer, with a vanilla fragrance resulting from
ageing it in barrels made of 70–100-year-old oak. Beer (pivo) is becoming
more popular, and is available in most restaurants and cafés.
Good Russian beers include Zhigulevskoe, Baltika, Kolos and
Moskovskoe. Various imported beers are also available.
Baltika beer Armenian brandy

Other Drinks
Made from barley and rye, kvas is a sweet, mildly alcoholic
drink consumed by adults and children alike. Russia has a
huge range of mineral waters (mineralnaya voda), including
many with unusually high mineral contents. Those from the
Caucasus, Siberia and Georgia are especially prized. Also
available are fruit juices (sok) and sweetened drinks made
by boiling fruit with sugar and water (kompot). The
Mineral water Kvas Mors cranberry version is called mors.

Tea
Russian tea is served black with a slice of
lemon and is traditionally drunk from a tall
glass, called a stakan, or a cup. The tea
(chay) is often sweetened with
jam (varenye) instead of sugar.
The boiling water for making tea
traditionally comes from a samovar.
The water is used to brew a pot of
strong tea, from which
a little is poured into the
glasses. This is then
A glass of tea, with jam diluted with more
(varenye) to sweeten it boiling water.
The Samovar
Traditionally made from brass or copper,
samovars were once used to provide
boiling water for a variety of domestic
purposes. Nowadays they are often
made of stainless steel and are used
for boiling water to make tea.
Occasionally eggs are put in
the top of the samovar to
cook in the boiling water.
The word samovar comes
from samo meaning “itself” and
varit meaning “to boil”.
186  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Arbatskaya
Baba Marta ȹ Tel (495) 937 8423
Bulgarian Map 6 E2
Gogolevskiy bulvar 8
Tel (495) 232 9209
Menu favourites at this family-
run restaurant include grilled
meat dishes with vegetables
and cheese. The banitsa (sweet
and savoury pastries) are
particularly recommended.
Chocolate ȹ This popular restaurant with
International Map 6 F2
Volhonka ulitsa 6
Tel (495) 697 2515
Serving a mixed menu of Russian,
Italian and Japanese dishes, this
bright restaurant offers excellent
service. It has a kids’ playroom too.
Obraz Zhizny ȹ Chefs prepare such delights as
International Map 6 D3
Ulitsa Prechistenka 40/2, Str. 2
Tel (926) 902 3158
With understated decor, low
lighting and quirky paintings,
this restaurant specializes in
traditional Eastern European fare,
including Hungarian goulash,
Polish borscht and Gdansk veal.
Shchisliva ȹ serving exquisite meat dishes, as
Russian Map 6 F2
Ulitsa Volkhonka 9, Bld. 1
Tel (499) 393 3961
Brick walls and simple wooden
tables create a relaxed setting in
which to savour venison pelmeni
(dumplings) and schi soup.
Bar Strelka ȹȹ
International Map 6 F2
Bersenevskaya naberezhnaya 14,
Str. 5A
Tel (495) 771 7416
This modern restaurant-bar on an
island in the Moskva River offers
bistro-style food and great views
from the summer rooftop terrace.
Korchma Taras Bulba ȹȹ
Ukrainian Map 6 F1
Ulitsa Mokhovaya 8
Tel (495) 780 7744
Part of a large chain of village-style
Ukrainian restaurants in Moscow,
this is the place to visit for
pelmeni (dumplings) and borscht.
Vostochnaya Komnata ȹȹ Price Guide
Indian Map 5 C2 Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one with a glass of wine,
Smolenskaya ploschad 3
including service.
Popular with both Russians and ȹ up to ȹ1,500
ex-pats, this restaurant serves ȹȹ ȹ1,500 to ȹ3,000
ȹȹȹ over ȹ3,000
authentic Indian food in the
heart of Moscow. Book ahead
at weekends.
DK Choice
Zhurfak ȹȹ White Rabbit ȹȹȹ
International Map 6 E2 International Map 5 C1
Bolshoi Afanasievsky pereulok 3 Smolenskaya ploschad 3
Tel (985) 212 5050 Tel (495) 663 3999
Enjoy breathtaking views
friendly service offers generous from the comfort of sofas and
portions of Russian and European armchairs beneath a domed
fare in a laid-back environment. glass ceiling at this restaurant
perched atop a 16-storey
Zu Café ȹȹ building. White Rabbit is
Asian Map 5 C1 frequented by Moscow’s elite,
Ulitsa Novyy Arbat 17 so expect prices to match.
Tel (495) 989 6573 Top chef Alexander Mukhin
provides a modern take on
Thai fish cakes, Asian duck salad traditional Russian dishes.
and shrimp chips in an open
kitchen at this smart restaurant.
Barashka ȹȹȹ
Azerbaijan Map 6 D1 Tverskaya
Ulitsa Novy Arbat 21/1
Tel (495) 228 3731 Bublik ȹ
Founded by restaurateur Arkady Russian Map 2 E4
Novikov, this is a high-class venue Tverskoy bulvar 24
Tel (495) 629 1342
well as some vegetarian options. A deli-style restaurant with an
upmarket atmosphere, Bulik
Elardzhi ȹȹȹ serves a range of Russian and
Georgian Map 6 E2 international dishes, including
Gagarinsky pereulok 15A lovely savoury and sweet pastries.
Tel (495) 627 7897
The place to see and be seen, Conversation ȹ
Elardzhi serves Georgian staples American Map 2 E5
such as lamb shashlyk and Ulitsa Nikitskaya B. 23/14
pelamushi (a dessert made from Tel (985) 443 7344
grape juice and cornmeal). This New York loft-style café-
restaurant serves a great range
of cakes and light meals, all
prepped in an open kitchen
with fresh local ingredients.
Montalto ȹ
Italian Map 2 D4
Sadovaya Kudrinskaya 20
Tel (495) 234 3487
A New York-style pizzeria with
exposed brick walls, minimalist
decor and a wood-fired pizza
oven. Toppings include spicy
home-made sausage and
wood-roasted mushrooms.

Twenty-Two ȹȹ Pizza Peppe ȹ

International Map 6 D1
Noviy Arbat 22
Tel (495) 776 8622
A sophisticated clientele comes
here for the adventurous Asian–
European fusion cuisine, plus the
splendid selection of wines.
Industrial-chic interior of the elegant
Bar Strelka
International Map 2 F5
Gazetnyj pereulok Dom. 9, Str. 2
Tel (495) 629 7945
Simple and unpretentious, this is
a great spot for good-value, tasty
thin-crust pizzas, salads, pasta
dishes and soups.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  187

Retseptor ȹ
International Map 2 D5
Bolshaya Nikitskaya 22/2
Tel (495) 695 6686
The retro decor here alone makes
it worth a visit. The menu includes
wholesome dishes such as baked
carp and spicy Korean soup.

As Eat Is ȹȹ
Russian Map 2 E4
Trehprudny pereulok 11/13/2
Tel (495) 699 5313
Traditional Russian dishes with a
modern twist here include salad
with omul fish from Lake Baikal
and duck stewed in wine.

Dolkabar ȹȹ Pre-Soviet-style decor at the delightfully cosy Mari Vanna

International Map 2 D3
Ulitsa Krasina 7/1 Chicago Prime Steakhouse ȹȹȹ Ludi Kak Ludi ȹ
Tel (499) 254 7908 American Map 2 F3 International Map 7 C1
Established by a Russian travel Strastnoy bulvar 8A Solyanskiy tupik 1/4
blogger, Dolkabar is decorated Tel (495) 988 1717 Tel (495) 621 1201
with travel photos and souvenirs. Diners at this top-rate steakhouse This café with a mosaic floor
select their raw cuts, which are serves home-baked breads,
Hinkalnaya ȹȹ then cooked to perfection. Great smoothies and light meals.
Georgian Map 2 E3 wine list and faultless service.
Ulitsa Tverskaya 30/2 Stolovaya 57 ȹ
Tel (903) 728 1874 El Gaucho ȹȹȹ Russian Map 7 B1
Tasty specialities such as pkhali Argentinean Map 2 E3 Krasnaya ploschad 3 (inside GUM
(chopped vegetables and nuts) Ulitsa Triumfalnaya 4/10 department store)
and chikhirtma (thick chicken Tel (495) 699 7974 Tel (495) 620 3129
soup) are served at this café- Cook your own steak on a hot Designed to resemble a Soviet
style restaurant. plate at your table at this venue canteen, this is perfect for a quick
popular with celebrities. lunch. The food is excellent, too –
Mari Vanna ȹȹ far above Soviet standards.
Russian Map 6 D1 Polo Club ȹȹȹ
Spiridonevskiy pereulok 10A American Map 3 A4 Avocado ȹȹ
Tel (495) 650 6500 Ulitsa Petrovka 11/20 Vegetarian Map 3 C4
This restaurant re-creates the look Tel (495) 937 1024 Chistoprudny Bulvar 12/2
of a cosy pre-Soviet apartment. This plush steakhouse in the Tel (495) 621 7719
Home-cooked dishes include Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel also Healthy and tasty vegetarian
baked duck leg with buckwheat. has a good seafood menu, as well dishes here include soups, pasta,
Breakfast is served until noon. as a large selection of desserts pelmeni (dumplings) and curries.
and an extensive wine list.
Ulliam’s ȹȹ Bardak ȹȹ
International Map 2 D4 Scandinavia ȹȹȹ Turkish Map 3 B5
Malaya Bronnaya ulitsa 27a International Map 2 E4 Ulitsa Maroseyka 6/8, Str. 1
Tel (495) 650 6462 Bolshoy Palashevskiy pereulok 7 Tel (495) 624 8878
Diners can watch their meal Tel (495) 937 5630 Well-presented dishes and
being cooked in the open The menu here has quality perfect Turkish coffee are served
kitchen at the centre of this European cuisine with some in a dining room that blends
small, cosy restaurant. Dishes Swedish specialities. It is especially modern and traditional
are mainly French, Italian, popular in summer, when guests Turkish decor.
American and English. enjoy dining under chestnut trees.
Bobby Dazzler ȹȹ
International Map 3 B3
DK Choice Kostyansky pereulok 7/13
Café Pushkin ȹȹȹ Red Square and Tel (495) 608 0383
Russian Map 2 E4 Kitay Gorod A popular English pub with a
Tverskoy bulvar 26A great range of European beers
Tel (495) 739 0033 Jagannat ȹ and marvellous dishes, such as
Oozing with aristocratic charm, Vegetarian Map 3 A4 salmon sausages. Book ahead.
this restaurant is one of the best Kuznetskiy most 11
in Russia. It serves beautifully Tel (495) 628 3580 Liga Pap ȹȹ
presented traditional dishes – This well-established restaurant International Map 3 B4
such as thinly sliced frozen serves Indian, Mexican, Thai, Ulitsa Bolshaya Lubyanka 24
wild boar garnished with apple Chinese and European specialities. Tel 4956243636
and Russian dumplings – in the There are no alcoholic drinks, With more than 20 TV screens,
magnificent surroundings of so wash your food down with this is the ultimate sports bar,
an 18th-century mansion. refreshing home-made with a good varied menu and
lemonade and ginger beer. plenty of chilled beer.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81
188  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
Maharaja ȹȹ
Indian Map 8 D1
Ulitsa Pokrovka 2/1
Tel (495) 621 9844
Though more expensive than
its competitors, Maharaja
consistently serves generous
portions of delicious Indian
cuisine. Tasteful decor and a
low-key environment, coupled
with attentive service, ensure a
thoroughly enjoyable
experience. Dishes can be
spiced to individual taste.
Petrovich ȹȹ
Russian Map 3 B4
Ulitsa Myasnitskaya 24, Bld. 3
Tel (495) 623 0082
This quirky, time-warp basement
restaurant celebrates everything
Soviet – from the decor to the
food and music. It gets very
lively at weekends.
Propaganda ȹȹ
American Map 6 D2
Bolshoi Zlatoustinskiy pereulok 7
Tel (495) 624 5732
Enjoy great service and large
portions at this legendary
hang-out that turns into one of
Moscow’s best clubs at night. Try
the home-made pasta dishes.
Tapa de Comida ȹȹ
Spanish Map 3 A3
Ulitsa Trubnaya 20/2
Tel (495) 608 2007
Reminiscent of a traditional Iberian
café, Tapa de Comida has a wide
range of tapas, such as Serrano
ham and croquetas (croquettes).
U–Me ȹȹ
Japanese Map 3 C5
Ulitsa Pokrovka 38A
Tel (495) 621 7840
This restaurant featuring dark
wood furniture and paper
lanterns has a wonderfully calm
ambience, sophisticated service
and exquisitely presented dishes.
Volkonsky ȹȹ
International Map 3 B5
Ulitsa Maroseyka 4/2
Tel (495) 258 5440
Attached to what is arguably the
city’s best bakery, this cosy café
serves sublime rolls and cakes,
plus a good range of mains.
Goodman Steakhouse ȹȹȹ
American Map 3 A5
Ulitsa Okhotniy Ryad 2
Tel (495) 775 9888
Part of a steakhouse chain,
Goodman offers quality steaks
and speciality burgers.
For key to prices see page 186
Nostalgie ȹȹȹ
Russian Map 3 C4
Chistoprudny bulvar 12A
Tel (495) 258 5668
A superb wine list accompanies
sumptuous haute cuisine in
elegant surroundings. Pheasant
consommé or warm foie gras
are among the menu options.
Schastye ȹȹȹ
Mediterranean Map 3 C4
Chistoprudniy bulvar 16
Tel (495) 624 6421
Chandeliers, cherubs and
whitewashed brick walls create
a laid-back vibe at this popular,
stylish restaurant, the name of
which translates as “Happiness”.
Zamoskvoreche
Karavaevi ȹ Bolshaya Ordynka 40/2
Russian Map 7 B3
Bolshaya Ordynka 7/1
Tel (495) 951 6204
Perfect for a quick lunch, this
welcoming rustic restaurant has
a great selection of sandwiches,
pastries, salads and light meals.
Marukame ȹ Tel (499) 238 6401
Japanese Map 7 B2
Ulitsa Pyatnitskaya 29
Tel (495) 660 5589
Part of a chain with more
than 600 restaurants in Japan,
Marukame is a self-service
noodle bar with consistently high
standards and good-value prices.
Aldebaran ȹȹ
International Map 7 A3
Bolshoy Tolmachevskiy
pereulok 4, Str. 1
Tel (495) 953 6268
In a pleasant location with outside
tables, this simple Parisian-style
café-restaurant serves a good
range of snacks and light meals.
Bottlebar ȹȹ
International Map 7 B2
Pyatnitsky pereulok 2, Trade Complex
Pyatnistky, 2nd Floor
Tel (495) 646 4925
The good-value menu at this
vibrant restaurant includes
steaks, pasta and soups. It
doubles as a bar/club with live
music, DJs and stand-up comics.
Brix ȹȹ
International Map 7 B2
Ulitsa Pyatnickaya 71/5
Tel (495) 925 9594
Renowned for its extensive wine
list, Brix is a great place to relax
and enjoy imaginative dishes
such as black cod with artichokes
or lamb ravioli.
The well-stocked bar at friendly,
laid-back Delicatessen
Correa’s ȹȹ
Italian Map 7 B3
Tel (495) 725 6035
This relaxed, informal restaurant
serves imaginative fare such as
salmon pizza.
Dorian Gray ȹȹ
Italian Map 7 A3
Kadashevskaya naberezhnaya 6/1
Enjoy excellent seafood and
pastas, as well as superb service
at this elegant riverside restaurant
with views of the Kremlin.
Funky Lab ȹȹ
International Map 7 A3
Ulitsa Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, Str. 1
Tel (495) 951 0607
This unpretentious basement
restaurant is great value. The
tablet menus are a novelty.
Punch and Judy ȹȹ
English Map 7 B2
Ulitsa Pyatnitskaya 6
Tel (495) 953 3992
Dishes such as eel salad and beef
steak and egg are served at this
quirky English pub with a friendly
atmosphere and real ale on tap.
DK Choice
Oblomov ȹȹȹ
Russian Map 7 C4
1yy Monetchikovskiy pereulok 5
Tel (495) 953 6828
Hard to beat for atmosphere
alone, this well-established
restaurant has long been one
of Moscow’s best. Ensconced
within a historic mansion, it
resembles a 16th-century
nobleman’s palace, while the
cuisine is authentic traditional
Russian. The wild boar is
particularly good. Book ahead.

Further Afield
Casa di Famiglia ȹ Tel (499) 973 1212
Italian
Ulitsa Metallurgov 7/18
Tel (495) 306 2457
This simple Italian restaurant on
the outskirts of Moscow offers
a pleasant interior and a good
range of home-cooked dishes.
Children’s entertainment is
available at weekends.
Pizzeria Centrale
Italian Map 5 A2
Kutuzovsky prospekt, Str. 17
Tel (499) 243 5457
Both traditional and unusual
combinations can be sampled
at this great-value restaurant
with a wood-fired pizza oven.
The pear, honey and cheese
pizza is particularly good.
Tapchan
Uzbek Map 8 F2
Ulitsa Sergiya Radonezhskogo 2
Tel (495) 228 5050
The delicious selection of dishes
at this atmospheric restaurant
with friendly staff includes plov
(rice, meat, vegetables and fruit)
and shurpa (soup with fatty meat).
U Giuseppe ȹ Tel (495) 688 3396
Italian Map 4 F5
Ulitsa Samotechnaya 13
Tel (495) 681 1326
At this laid-back Italian osteria
diners can savour traditional
regional specialities and a good
selection of home-made pasta
dishes. There is a summer terrace
for alfresco dining.
Bely Zhuravl ȹȹ
Korean Map 6 D5
Frunzenskaya naberezhnaya 14,
Str. 1
Tel (495) 775 0656
Moscow’s best Korean restaurant
serves gigantic portions of
steaming-hot spicy dishes. The
menu is very meat-oriented.
DK Choice
Delicatessen ȹȹ
International Map 2 F2
Ulitsa Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20
Tel (495) 699 3962 Closed Sun,
Mon
Tucked away in a courtyard off
the Garden Ring, Delicatessen is
a friendly family-run restaurant
offering delicious home
cooking and a laid-back vibe.
The day’s menu is scribbled
on a blackboard. Sit back and
enjoy a great wine list and
some of the city’s best cocktails.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Druzhba ȹȹ
Chinese Map 2 E1
Ulitsa Novoslobodskaya 4
This hugely popular Chinese
restaurant serves enormous
portions. The vast selection of
dishes includes the usual
favourites and many more.
Pane & Olio ȹȹ
Italian Map 6 D3
Ulitsa Timura Frunze 22
Tel (499) 246 2622
ȹ Intimate and cosy, this well-
established Italian restaurant
is reputed to be one of the
best in town. Expect attentive
service and, perhaps, even a
visit from the chef.
Ragout ȹȹ
International Map 1 C4
Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69
Tel (495) 728 6458
ȹ The light and spacious interior
of Ragout is reminiscent of a
London gastropub combined
with a Parisian bistro. The simple
menu offers a selection of British
and French dishes.
V Temnote? ȹȹ
International Map 2 F1
Oktjabrskaya naberezhnaya 2/4
At this intriguing concept
restaurant, diners eat in total
darkness and are guided and
served by blind waiters. Will you
be able to guess what you ate?
Yornik ȹȹ
International Map 1 C2
Ulitsa Gruzinskaya B. 69,
Tel (495) 789 9250
Relax and enjoy the professional
and attentive service at this
delightful, intimate eatery.
Among the inventive dishes
created by the British chef
are chestnut-crusted veal and
salted-caramel ice cream.
Marukame in Zamoskvoreche, part of a Japanese noodle-bar chain
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 180–81
 189
Kavkazskaya Plenitsa ȹȹȹ
Georgian Map 3 B2
Prospekt Mira 36
Tel (495) 680 5111
Boasting a terrace and a lovely
garden, this brightly decorated
restaurant serves a good range
of Georgian favourites. Weekends
are especially family-friendly,
featuring a children’s entertainer.
Osteria della Piazza Blanca ȹȹȹ
Italian Map 2 D2
Ulitsa Lesnaya 5A
Tel (495) 508 2517
Book ahead for lunch at this
bustling restaurant in a
gleaming office complex with
efficient service and high-
quality Italian cuisine.
Shinok ȹȹȹ
Ukrainian Map 1 A3
Ulitsa 1905 Goda 2
Tel (495) 651 8101
Decorated to resemble a
Ukrainian peasant house, this
rustic restaurant has a yard with
live farm animals. The prices are
high, but the food is excellent.
Sixty ȹȹȹ
International Map 1 B3
Presnenskaya naberezhnaya 12,
Federatsia Tower, 62nd Floor
Tel (495) 653 8368
Considered the highest
restaurant in Europe, Sixty
occupies the 62nd floor of a
gleaming office tower. Diners
come as much for the
breathtaking views as for the
wide-ranging menu.
Soho Rooms ȹȹȹ
International Map 5 A4
Savvinskaya naberezhnaya 12, Str. 8
Tel (495) 988 7474
This awesome complex of three
restaurants, bars and a swimming
pool is located in a huge old silk
factory that is the night-time
playground of Moscow’s elite.
190  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Light Meals and Snacks pastries and sweets. Western-

style cafés such as Friends
Moscow has plenty of cafés, bistros, restaurants, bars and fast- Forever, Upside Down Cake Co.
food outlets catering for every taste and budget. Russian food, and Cup and Cake have more
particularly its traditional soups and salads, is perfect for a international offerings. Russian
ice cream is sold in cafés and
light meal. A tempting variety of patisserie-style confectionery
kiosks and is truly excellent.
is also a feature of Russian cuisine, and afternoon tea can be a For picnic supplies, try the
real occasion, especially in traditional Russian and Central delicious cakes and pastries
Asian cafés. Pizza, pasta and sushi are in plentiful supply in on offer from Volkonsky Keyser
a wide variety of environments, from bars and cafés to or Madame Boulanger.
upmarket restaurants. Many restaurants offer a good value
“business lunch” or discount on their à la carte menu between Pubs and Bars
noon and 4pm. For a quick bite, snacks such as pancakes and Moscow’s pubs and bars offer
baked potatoes can be obtained from street vendors. The best a good range of light meals.
stalls can be found in Moscow’s busiest shopping streets, such So-called art cafés, often
as Tverskaya ulitsa and the Novyy Arbat. featuring live music (see p202),
also have excellent menus. In the
evening these cafés may be busy,
Russian soup), are well worth trying. with some form of art-happening
Traditional Russian cafés and Meals usually involve a soup, taking centre stage, but at
bistros are usually rustically grilled meats and a fresh salad. lunchtime they usually have a
decorated, but can be rather Of the Uzbek restaurants, Kish calmer atmosphere. Two good
smoky. The menu consists of Mish and Khodzha Nasreddin v choices are Kult and Kitaiskiy
soups such as borscht, and Khive offer good value, tasty Lyotchik Djao Da, which both
hearty salads including silodka food. Barashka (see p186) serves serve good-value, bistro-style
pod shuboi (pickled herring with excellent Azerbaijani food, while food. Durdin and Tinkoff stock
shredded beetroot). Pirozhki, Elardzhi (see p186) has a superb their own microbrewed beers.
pastries stuffed with anything range of Georgian favourites. Liga Pap is an upmarket sports
from cabbage to liver (see p183), Korchma Taras Bulba is an bar with a viewing room and
are good fillers. Excellent excellent place to sample plasma TVs screening big sports
examples of such offerings can Ukrainian cooking. events. Its drinks and meals are
be ordered at Mari Vanna and While vegetarians are better reasonably priced. Sally
Café Margarita, while Oblomov provided for at ethnic restau- O’Brien’s is Moscow’s premier
and Art Club Nostalgie offer rants, the options are limited. Irish bar and provides a range
both European and Russian Jagannat is a wholly vegetarian of wholesome pub food. The
food. For a quick meal, the chain restaurant, serving Indian, Albion Pub is also a good choice
restaurants Moo Moo and Japanese and Chinese meals. and benefits from a wider menu.
Russkoe Bistro serve fast food,
Russian style. For Russian food
on the move the best option is Fast Food, Pizza and Sushi
the blini stalls, which can be Pasta Sushi is readily available in
found all over the city serving Restaurant chains tend to Moscow, and can be enjoyed
buckwheat pancakes with predominate for pizza, pasta and in Japanese restaurants, sushi
sweet and savoury fillings. fast food. Akademiya serves tasty bars, nightclubs and “art cafés”.
pizzas at a range of locations, Despite the capital being
while Pane & Olio (see p189) has landlocked, the sushi on offer
Ukrainian, Uzbek, pastas, salads and pizzas. For is generally fresh and well
Caucasian and American food, Starlight Diner prepared, though it can
Vegetarian and the American Bar and Grill sometimes be a little bland.
Moscow’s ethnic restaurants both offer authentic burgers. The Yakitoria chain has
often have striking Central Asian Goodman Steakhouse (see p188) branches throughout the
decor. Guests may well find is a fashionable restaurant city. It has traditional Japanese
themselves sitting on cushions serving high-quality American decor and offers good sushi at
at low tables. The food tends to cuisine, while Lyudi Kak Lyudi reasonable prices. Yapona Mama
be simple, well-cooked and offers a selection of Russian is more minimalist in ambience
reasonably priced. Staples from and international dishes at and serves sushi along with a
the former Soviet republics reasonable prices. variety of hot dishes, including
of Georgia, Armenia and European ones. Both are
Uzbekistan, such as dolmas reasonably priced. Other good
(meat and rice wrapped in vine Pastries and Sweets options include Tanuki and
leaves), shashlyk (shish kebabs) Russian restaurants and cafés Yaposha, both with branches
and lobio (a thick spicy bean usually have a good range of throughout the city.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  191

DIRECTORY
Russian Korchma Taras Bulba Upside Down Sushi
Корчма Тарас Бульба Cake Co.
Art Club Nostalgie Tanuki
Pyatnitskaya ulitsa 14. Апсайд Даун Кейк
Арт клуб ностальжи Тануки
Map 7 B3. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 76. Pyatnitskaya 53.
Chistoprudnyy bulvar 12a.
Tel (495) 953 7153. Map 2 D2. Map 7 B4.
Map 3 C4.
Tel (495) 926 8397. Tel (495) 951 6973.
Tel (495) 258 5668.
∑ nostalgie.ru
Fast Food, Pizza Volkonsky Keyser
and Pasta Yakitoria
Волконский Кейзер Якитория
Café Margarita
Akademiya Ulitsa Maroseyka 4/2. Ulitsa Petrovka 16.
Кафе Маргарита
Malaya Bronnaya Академия Map 3 B5. Map 3 A4.
Kamergerskiy Tel (903) 185 3291. Tel (495) 924 0609.
ulitsa 28.
Map 2 E4. pereulok 2/1. 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya
Tel (495) 699 6534. Map 2 F5. Pubs and Bars ulitsa 29/1.
Tel (495) 692 9649. Tel (495) 250 5385.
Mari Vanna Albion Pub
Map 2 E3.
Мари Vанна American Bar and Альбион
Spiridonevskiy Grill Manezhnaya ploshchad 1 Yapona Mama
pereulok 10. Американ Бар Грилл (enter from Alexander Япона Мама
Map 2 E4. Ulitsa Zemlyanoy val 59. Gardens). Smolenskiy bulvar 4.
Tel (495) 650 6500. Map 8 E2. Map 3 A5/7 A1. Map 6 D3.
Tel (495) 912 3615. Tel (499) 246 9967.
Tel (495) 995 9545.
Moo Moo
Correa’s Yaposha
Му-му
Корреас Kult Япоша
Ulitsa Arbat 45/24.
Ulitsa Gasheka 7. Культ Tverskaya 20/1.
Tel (495) 241 1364. Map 2 E3.
Map 2 D3. Ulitsa Yauzskaya 5.
Map 6 D1. Tel (495) 650 5918.
Tel (495) 789 9654. Map 8 D2.
Oblomov Tel (495) 917 5706.
Lyudi Kak Lyudi
Обломов
Люди Как Люди Durdin
1-y Monetchikovsky
Solyankskiy tupik 1/4. Дурдинь
pereulok 5.
Map 7 C1. Bolshaya Polyanka
Map 7 B4. Tel (495) 621 1201.
Tel (495) 953 6828. ulitsa 56.
Starlight Diner Map 7 A3.
Russkoe Bistro Старлайт дайнер Tel (495) 953 5200.
Русское Быстро Bolshaya Sadovaya
Tverskaya ulitsa 16. ulitsa 16. Kitaiskiy Lyotchik
Tel (495) 690 9834. Map 2 E3. Djao Da
Map 2 F5. Tel (495) 650 0246. Китайский Летчик
Джао Да
Ukrainian, Uzbek, Pastries and Lubyansky proezd 25/12.
Caucasian and Sweets Map 3 B5.
Vegetarian Tel (495) 624 5611.
Cup and Cake
Jagannat Кап знд Кейк Liga Pap
Джаганнат Ulitsa Nikolskaya 10/2. Лига Пап
Ulitsa Kuznetskiy most 11. Map 3 5A. Bolshaya Lubyanka
Map 3 A4. Tel (495) 621 2125. ulitsa 24.
Tel (495) 628 3580.
Friends Map 3 B4.
Khodzha Nasreddin v Forever Tel (495) 624 3636.
Khive Френдс Форевер
Ходжа Насреддин в Sally O’Brien’s
Bolshoi Kozikhinskiy
Хиве Bolshaya Polyanka 1/3.
pereulok 18.
Ulitsa Pokrovka 10. Map 2 E4. Map 7 A3.
Map 3 C5. Tel (495) 699 4302. Tel (495) 959 0175.
Tel (495) 917 0444. ∑ sallyobriens.ru
Madame
Kish Mish Boulanger Tinkoff
Кишмиш Мадам Буланже Тинбкофф
Ulitsa Novyy Arbat 28. Nitiskiy bulvar 12. Protochnyy pereulok 11.
Tel (495) 690 0703. Map 2 E5. Map 5 C1.
Map 5 C1. Tel (495) 685 9695. Tel (495) 780 5888.
192  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

SHOPS AND MARKETS

Russia’s appetite for Western goods means
that Moscow offers most of the shopping
facilities of a large, modern Western city.
There are supermarkets, department stores
stocking imported goods and exclusive
boutiques with French and Italian designer
clothes and shoes for the new rich. Moscow’s
most interesting shopping districts are
located within the Garden Ring. The main
department stores are clustered around
the city centre near Red Square, while the
best souvenir and antique shops can be
found along ulitsa Arbat (see pp72–3), a
charming old pedestrian street. For the more
adventurous a trip to the weekend flea
market at Izmaylovo Park is a must. Here it
is possible to buy everything from Russian
dolls and Soviet memorabilia to paintings,
handmade rugs from Central Asia and
antique jewellery.

shops of all sizes. in units that have a fixed rate

A display counter in the sumptuously
decorated Yeliseyevsky Food Hall (see p194)
Opening Hours
Moscow’s shops and businesses
rarely open before 10am and
often not until 11am. Most stay
open until around 7pm. A few
state-run stores close for an
hour at lunchtime, either from
1pm to 2pm, or from 2pm to
3pm. Shops are usually open all
day on Saturdays, and most are
also open on Sundays, although
often for shorter hours. To keep
up with increasing consumer
demands, a large number of
shops and services are now
open around the clock, from
bookstores to beauty salons.
Markets generally operate
from 10am to 4pm but it is
necessary to go in the morning
to get the best choice of goods.
How to Pay
Nowadays, the kassa system of
visiting several cashier’s desks is
pretty rare in Moscow and there
are hundreds of Western-type
Throughout the city
there are several chain
stores, for example,
Sedmoi Kontinent,
Kopeika, Perekrestok
and Ramstor. The
latter offers a huge
range of products
from food to clothes.
There are also a few
hypermarkets.
The only legal
currency in Russia is
the rouble and most
shops will not accept
other currencies.
Vendors at the tourist
markets may quote
prices in US dollars.
However, this will not guarantee
a discount and visitors should
bear in mind that it is illegal.
Now that the rampant
inflation of the early 1990s is
under control there should
rarely be pressure to pay in
hard currency.
Western-style supermarkets
and shops, as well as some
upmarket Russian boutiques,
accept the main credit cards.
Some shops still display prices in
US dollars or, very occasionally,
A Western boutique in Moscow’s largest
department store, GUM
of exchange with roubles.
If so the price will be converted
into roubles, at a higher than
average exchange rate, before
payment is made. Paying by
credit card avoids this as credit
card slips are nearly always
made out in US dollars.
Prices for most goods include
15 per cent VAT. Only staples
such as locally produced milk
and bread are exempt.
There are a few duty-free
shops in the centre of Moscow
and at Sheremetevo 2 airport.
Department Stores and
Shopping Malls
The most famous department
store in Russia is the State
Department Store, known by its
acronym, GUM (see p109). Its
beautiful edifice houses three
arcades of shops under a glass
roof. It was built at the end of
the 19th century, just before the
Revolution put an end to such
luxurious capitalism. During
Soviet times GUM stocked the
same goods as other department
stores in the city and was very
dingy and run-down. Following
renovation, however, it houses
several top Western chains, as
well as speciality shops and
boutiques. Cosmetics, medicines,
cameras and electronic goods
are all available along with
clothes and household goods.
Moscow’s other large depart-
ment store is TsUM, the Central
Department Store. Formerly
cheaper and a little shabbier than
GUM, it has been thoroughly
renovated and is too expensive
for most ordinary Muscovites.

Replica icons on sale at the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius (see pp164–7)
Okhotnyy Ryad is an under-
ground shopping mall, with
clothes and electronic goods
stores, as well as a food court.
Detskiy Mir (Children’s World),
the largest children’s retailer in
Russia, has a large store in the
Arbatskaya area. Imported and
Russian educational toys, audio-
tapes, cartoon books and board
games can also be found at
Malenkiy Genii (Little Genius).
Souvenirs on sale at the flea market in
Izmaylovo Park
Bazaars and Markets
Many Muscovites buy their
cheese, meat, and fresh fruit and
vegetables at one of a number
of big produce markets dotted
around the city. One of the
biggest and most picturesque
food markets is the Danilovskiy
Market, which takes its name
from the nearby Danilovskiy
Monastery (see pp138–9). The
market at Metro Universitet has
a wide variety of fresh produce;
there is sometimes a market
across the road in which
vendors from far-flung Russian
regions sell produce and
souvenirs. The Dorogomilovsky
Market, located near Kievsky
train station, displays a colourful
selection of fresh produce from
Russia and the former Soviet
Republics. At the upscale
Farmers’ Market on the top
floor of the Tsvetnoy Central
Market customers can purchase
ingredients and have them
cooked at one of the
surrounding restaurants.
SHOPS AND MARKETS
Izmaylovo Market is a
flea market held every week-
end at Izmaylovo Park (see p143).
It is a treasure trove of old and
new. All the usual souvenirs
are on sale, including Soviet
memorabilia and painted
Russian matryoshka dolls (see
p196), as well as antique silver,
icons, samovars, china, fur
hats, amber and some of the
best Central Asian rugs in
Russia. Many local artists and
crafts people have set up their
stalls here.
Gorbushka, an indoor market,
sells electrical goods, along with
DVDs and CDs.
Museum Shops
There is a small, but excellent,
souvenir shop at the Museum
of Contemporary History. Its
stock includes old Soviet
posters, stamps and badges,
amber and lacquer boxes. Both
the Pushkin State Museum
of Fine Arts (see pp80–83)
and the Tretyakov Gallery
(see pp120–23) sell a good
selection of art books with
English commentaries.
Bargaining Etiquette
Many market vendors come
from long-established trading
families and expect buyers
to haggle. It may seem a
daunting prospect,
but bargaining down
the price of an item
can be extremely
satisfying, although
visitors are unlikely
to get the better of
these adept salesmen.
Most vendors at
souvenir markets
speak enough English
to bargain. Little, if
any, English will be
spoken at other Samovars and other items for sale in one of the many
markets, so a few antiques shops along ulitsa Arbat
 193
Russian words will certainly
come in handy.
Occasionally sales people
will refuse to drop their price.
Try thanking them and turning
to leave, to see if they will cut
the price further. Their final
price, whether bargained down
or not, is usually reasonable by
Western standards.
A stall selling fresh vegetables and herbs at
the Danilovskiy Market
Buying Antiques
It is very difficult to take any
items that were made before
1945 out of Russia. All outgoing
luggage is x-rayed by customs
officials to check for precious
metals, works of art, rugs and
icons, and complete
documentation for all these
objects is required before
they can be exported.
Permission to export antiques
and art can only be obtained
from the Ministry of Culture.
This process takes at least
2 weeks and an export tax of
50 per cent of the ministry’s
assessment of the antiques’
value will have to be paid.
It is safest to restrict
purchases to items less than
50 years old. However, customs
inspectors at the airport may
still want to see receipts and
documentation that proves the
age of the objects.
194  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Shop in Moscow Japanese art, while Ivantsarevich

has a variety of interesting Soviet
The days of Soviet era queues and shortages are long gone. porcelain. For larger pieces and
Moscow is a modern city, full of shops, and just about furniture visitors should go to
everything that is available in the West can be found here. The Rokoko which sells goods
for people for a commission. The
Arbat and Tverskaya are the main shopping drags, and are filled
Foreign Book Store, which is
with shoppers visiting chic boutiques and other meccas of principally a bookshop, also sells
consumerism. However, high import duties, transportation costs furniture, antiques and a lot of
and the relative lack of competition can make some consumer china, lamps and bric-a-brac.
goods more expensive than in the West. The colourful Russian
arts and crafts available at many locations throughout the city Fashion and Accessories
are popular with visitors as are exotic goods from the ex-Soviet There are many boutiques in the
Republics of Central Asia and memorabilia from the Soviet era. centre of town around GUM
(see p109), TsUM (see p192) and
Okhotnyy Ryad, and along
Vodka and Caviar home. The best places to Tverskaya ulitsa (see p91). The
Russia is the best place in the buy are the markets, such centre also has two good
world to buy vodka and caviar, as the Izmaylovo Market (see arcades. Petrovskiy Passage sells
but buyers must be careful. p193), and souvenir shops on clothes and shoes as well as
Caviar should not be bought in ulitsa Arbat (see pp72–3). Lacquer furniture and electrical goods.
the street and it is advisable to trays and bowls, painted china Gallery Aktyor, a modern,
buy it in tins rather than jars. Even and matryoshka dolls can be three-storey arcade, contains
tins should be kept refrigerated bought at Arbatskaya Lavitsa. Western and designer stores
at all times. Caviar is available Handmade lace and embroidery selling clothes, French perfumes
from most supermarkets but, are on sale in Russkaya and jewellery from Tiffany and
for a real Russian shopping Vyshivka, while for Russian Cartier. Clothes by Russian
experience, go to the sumptuous jewellery and amber visitors designers are gradually
Yeliseyevsky Food Hall (see p91). should try Samotsvety. appearing in Moscow’s shops;
A pre-Revolutionary delicatessen, A good range of arts and Masha Tsigal sells clothes,
it was known as Gastronom crafts is also available at shops handbags and sunglasses.
No. 1 in Soviet times, and elsewhere in the city, such as On the edge of the city
boasts chandeliers and Roza Azora, a small art gallery centre are the Evropeiskiy
stained-glass windows. on Nikitsky Bulvar, which sells a and Atrium shopping centres,
There is a great deal of boot- curious selection of Soviet bric-a- which contain a variety of
leg vodka about, which can be brac, from lamps to biscuit tins. high-street shops, along with
highly poisonous. It is essential For more unusual souvenirs, try cafés, bars and a cinema.
to ensure that there is a pink tax Dom Farfora, which sells hand- A wide range of authentic
label stuck over the top of any painted tea sets and Russian Russian fur hats are sold in
bottle of vodka and none crystal, and the Salon of the Petrovskiy Passage and on
should ever be bought on the Moscow Cultural Fund, which the second floor of GUM.
street. Popular vodkas such as has samovars, lamps and whim- Alternatively, head to Izmaylovo
Stolichnaya and Moskovskaya sical sculptures and mobiles. Market to buy them at much
(see p184) are available from lower prices.
most supermarkets including
Sedmoi Kontinent. Antiques
Vodka and caviar are also The new Russian rich are hungry Books and Music
available at the duty-free shops for antiques and dealers know For English-language books,
at the airports (see p216), but the value of goods, so the Dom Inostrannoi Knigi is
are much cheaper in town. bargains of yesteryear are no probably the best shop to visit.
Russians never mix vodka, longer available. It is also worth The enormous Moscow House
but instead eat snacks or drink noting that exporting objects of Books sells a good range of
juice immediately after a “shot”, made before 1945 from Russia English-language books, and
to cool the aftertaste and involves a lot of expense and also old icons and Soviet
increase endurance. effort (see p193). However, it is still propaganda posters. Biblio
well worth exploring the many Globus is well worth having a
wonderful shops full of treasures. browse in, while the Moskva
Arts and Crafts The area around ulitsa Arbat Trade House deals in Russian
Low labour costs mean that has many of the city’s best and foreign books, as well as
handmade goods are generally antique shops. Eurasia Gallery, selling stamps, small antiques
cheaper here than in the West one of the largest galleries of and paintings. For vintage and
and they make exotic and Eastern antiques in Europe, specialist music try Transylvania,
interesting souvenirs to take specializes in Chinese and just off Tverskaya ulitsa.
 SHOPS AND MARKETS  195

DIRECTORY
Department Museum Shops Russkaya Masha Tsigal
Stores and Vyshivka Маша Цигал
Shopping Malls Museum of Русская вышивка Ulitsa Yazskaya 1/15.
Contemporary Ulitsa Arbat 31. Map 8 D2.
Detskiy Mir History Map 6 D1. Tel (495) 660 5644.
Дескии мир Музей современной Tel (499) 241 2841. Petrovskiy Passage
10 Vozdvizhenka ulitsa, истории
Salon of the Moscow Петровский Пассаж
Voentorg. Muzey sovremennoy
Cultural Fund Ulitsa Petrovka 10.
Map 6 D1 istorii
Салон Московского Map 3 A4.
Tel 8 (800) 250 00 00 Tverskaya ulitsa 21.
фонда культуры Tel (495) 625 3132.
∑ detmir.ru
Map 2 E4.
Tel (495) 699 6724. Salon Moskovskovo
fonda kultury Books and Music
GUM
ГУМ Pushkin State Pyatnitskaya ulitsa 16. Biblio Globus
Museum of Fine Arts Map 7 B3. Библио Глобус
Krasnaya ploshchad 3.
Музей Tel (495) 951 3302. Miasnitskaya ul. 6/3.
Map 3 A5.
Tel (495) 788 4343. изобразительных Samotsvety Map 3 B5.
искусств имени АС Самоцветы Tel (495) 781 1900.
Malenkiy Genii Пушкина Ulitsa Arbat 35. Dom Inostrannoi
Маленький Гении Muzey izobrazitelnykh Map 6 D1. Knigi
Bolshoy Kozikhinskiy iskusstv imeni AS Pushkina Tel (495) 241 0765. Дом Иностраннои
pereulok 6. Ulitsa Volkhonka 12. Книги
Map 2 E4. Map 6 F2. Antiques Ulitsa Kuznetskiy most 18.
Tel (495) 691 2147. Tel (495) 609 9520. Map 3 A4.
Eurasia Gallery
Tretyakov Gallery Галерея Евразия Tel (495) 628 2021.
Okhotnyy Ryad
Охотный Ряд Tретьяковская галерея Nikitsky bulvar 12A. The Foreign
Manezhnaya ploshad. Tretyakovskaya galereya Map 2 E5. Book Store
Lavrushinskiy pereulok 12. Tel (495) 690 0549. Иностранная Книга u
Map 3 A5.
Tel (495) 737 8449.
Map 7 A3.
Ivantsarevich Антиквариат
Tel (495) 230 7788. Inostrannaya kniga i
Иванцареич
TsUM Ulitsa Arbat 4. Antikvariat
ЦУМ Vodka and Caviar Malaya Nikitskaya
Map 6 E1.
Ulitsa Petrovka 2. Tel (495) 691 7444. ulitsa 16/9. Map 2 D5.
Sedmoi Kontinent
Map 3 A4. Tel (495) 690 4082.
Седьмой Континент Ministry of Culture
Tel (495) 933 7300. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Moscow House of
Министерство культуры
ulitsa 63. Malyy Gnezdnikovskiy
Books
Bazaars and Map 2 D2. Московский Дом книги
7/6.
Markets Tel (495) 721 3874. Tel (495) 629 2008.
Moskovskiy Dom knigi
Ulitsa Novyy Arbat 8.
Danilovskiy Market Yeliseyevsky Food Rokoko Map 6 D1.
Даниловский рынок Hall Рококо Tel (495) 789 3591
Mytnaya ulitsa 74. Елисеевский гастроном Frunzenskaya
Yeliseevskiy gastronom Moskva Trade House
naberezhnaya 54.
Dorogomilovsky Tverskaya ulitsa 14. Tорговый дом Книгu
Tel (499) 242 3664.
Market Map 2 F4. Torgovyy dom Knigi
Дорогомиловский Tel (495) 925 2790. Fashion and Tverskaya ulitsa 8.
рынок Map 2 F4.
Accessories
Arts and Crafts Tel (495) 629 6483.
Mozhayskiy Val 10.
Map 5 A2.
Atrium Transylvania
Arbatskaya Lavitsa Атриум Трансильвания
Gorbushka Арбатская Лавица 33 Zemlyanoi Val. Tverskaya ulitsa 6/1, 5.
Горбушкa Ulitsa Arbat 27. Tel (495) 970 1555. Map 2 F5.
Barklaya ulitsa 8. Map 6 E1.
Evropeiskiy Tel (495) 629 8786.
Tel (495) 290 5689.
Izmaylovo Market Европейский
Dom Farfora Ploshad Kievskovo
Рынок Измайлово
Дом фарфора Vokzala 2.
Izmaylovskoe shosse.
Leninskiy prospekt 36. Map 5 B2.
Tsvetnoy Central Tel (499) 137 6023. Tel (495) 921 3444.
Market Roza Azora Gallery Aktyor
Цветной Централ Роза Азора Галерея Актер
Маркет Nkitsky bulvar 14. Tverskaya ulitsa 16/1.
Tsvetnoy Boulevard 15. Map 2 E5. Map 2 F4.
Map 3 A3. Tel (495) 695 8119. Tel (495) 935 8299.
196  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Moscow

It is easy to find interesting and beautiful souvenirs in Moscow.
Traditional crafts were encouraged by the State in the old Soviet
Union, so many age-old skills were kept alive. Artisans today
continue to produce items ranging from small, low-cost, enamelled
badges through to more expensive hand-painted Palekh boxes,
samovars and worked semi-precious stones. Other popular items
are lacquered trays and bowls, chess sets, wooden toys and
matryoshka dolls. Memorabilia from the Soviet era also make
good souvenirs and Russia is definitely the best place to buy
the national specialities, vodka and caviar.

Vodka and Caviar
An enormous variety of both clear and
flavoured vodkas (such as lemon and
pepper) is available (see p184). They make
excellent accompaniments to black caviar
(ikra) and red caviar (keta), which are
often served with blini.
Samovar
Used to boil water to make tea,
samovars (see p185) come in many
sizes. A permit is needed to export
a pre-1945 samovar.

Malachite egg Amber ring

Semi-Precious Stones
Red caviar Malachite, amber, jasper and
Clear vodka a variety of marbles from the Ural
mountains are used to make a
Flavoured vodka Black caviar
wide range of items – everything
from jewellery to chess sets and
Wooden Toys inlaid table tops.
These crudely carved
wooden toys often
have moving parts.
They are known
as bogorodskie
toys and make
charming gifts.

Matryoshka Dolls
These dolls fit one inside the other and
come in a huge variety of styles. The
traditional dolls are the prettiest, but
the models painted to represent
Soviet political leaders are
also very popular.

Chess Sets
Chess is an extremely popular
pastime in Russia. Chess sets made
from all kinds of materials, including
malachite, are available. This
beautiful wooden set is painted in
the same folkloric style as the
traditional matryoshka dolls.
 SHOPS AND MARKETS  197

Lacquered Artifacts
Palekh Box
Painted wooden or papier-mâché
The art of miniature painting on
artifacts make popular souvenirs and papier-mâché items originated in
are sold all over the city. The exquisite the late 18th century. Artists in the
hand-painted, lacquered Palekh four villages of Palekh, Fedoskino,
boxes can be very costly, but the Mstera and Kholuy still produce
eggs decorated with icons and the these hand-painted marvels. The
typical red, black and gold bowls images are based on Russian fairy-
are more affordable. tales and legends.

Bowl with Spoon

The brightly painted
bowls and spoons
usually known as “Khokhloma”
have a lacquer coating, forming
a surface which is durable, but
Painted wooden egg not resistant to boiling liquids. Russian hand-painted tray

Tuners Strings
Russian Shawl
These brilliantly coloured,
traditional woollen shawls
are good for keeping out
the cold of a Russian
winter. Mass-produced
polyester versions are
also available, mostly
in big department
stores, but they will
not be as warm.

Traditional Musical Instruments

Russian folk music uses a wide range of musical
instruments. This gusli is similar to the Western psaltery,
and is played by plucking the strings with both hands.
Also available are the balalaika and the garmon, which
resembles a concertina.

Soviet Memorabilia Gzhel Vase

A wide array of memorabilia Ceramics with a distinctive blue
from Soviet times can be and white pattern are produced in Gzhel, a town near
bought. Old banknotes, Moscow. Ranging from figurines to household crockery,
coins, pocket watches they are popular with Russians and visitors alike.
and all sorts of
Red Army kit,
including belt buckles
and badges, can be
found, together with
more recent watches
with cartoons of
KGB agents
on their faces. Pocket watch Badge with Soviet symbols Red Army leather belt
198  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN
MOSCOW
Moscow offers many forms of entertainment,
from great theatre productions, operas
and ballets to a wide choice of lively night-
life venues. Attending a performance at
the Bolshoi Theatre (see pp92–3) remains
a must for opera and ballet buffs. Other
theatres put on an enormous range of
productions, including musicals and shows
for children. Moscow has several cinemas
A performance of the opera Boris Godunov at the Bolshoi Theatre
Practical Information
Moscow does not have any
conventional tourist information
offices. However, listings for
events such as films, plays,
concerts and exhibitions,
together with extensive lists of
restaurants and nightclubs can
be found in the Friday edition of
the English-language newspaper
The Moscow Times. Restaurants
and nightclubs are also listed in
the English-language Moscow
News. Both are free and available
at large hotels and in most
tourist-geared restaurants.
Those who can read Russian
can make use of the magazine
Afisha, which has compre-
hensive listings.
Visitors should note that
the safest way to get back
from late-night events is in
an official taxi booked in
advance (see p221).
Booking Tickets
By far the easiest way to book
tickets for a concert, a ballet, an
opera or the theatre is through
screening foreign-language films. They
usually show the latest releases only a
few weeks after they are premiered in
the West. The city also has over 300
nightclubs and many late-night bars,
some of which have live bands. In addition,
there is plenty of free entertainment from
street performers, especially on ulitsa
Arbat (see pp72–3).
desks in hotels accept
payment by major credit
cards, but many will charge
a fee for doing so. Visitors
who speak Russian will be
able to buy cheaper tickets
from a theatre ticket kiosk
(teatralnaya kassa). These
kiosks are scattered all round
the city and in metro stations.
A particularly useful ticket
agency is located on Theatre
Square (see p90).
Another alternative is to
book tickets at the venues.
Although these tickets are
one of the main international usually the cheapest, it can
hotels, even for visitors not require a lot of patience to
staying there. Both Western- obtain them since ticket
style and Russian-run hotels offices are often open at
will usually offer this service. unpredictable hours.
However, tickets bought in There are ticket touts outside
this way are often more most events, especially
expensive than those available those at the Bolshoi Theatre.
elsewhere. Ticket-booking However, there is a risk that
The Moscow State Circus
Russians have always loved the circus. In the 18th and 19th centuries
it was the most popular theatrical entertainment. Troupes travelled
round the country performing mostly satirical shows. Today the
renowned Moscow State Circus has its permanent home in Moscow.
It is famous for its clowns, the breathtaking stunts of its acrobats and
trapeze artists and its performing animals. The last often include
tigers jumping through burning hoops and bears riding bicycles,
and animal-lovers should be aware that they may find some acts
distressing. The original venue, now known as the Old
Circus, was built in 1880 by Albert
Salamonskiy for his private troupe.
Salamonskiy’s Circus
became the
Moscow State
Circus in 1919.
The New Circus
was built in 1973.
The big top of the New Circus, second venue of the Both venues are
Moscow State Circus now in use.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M O S CO W  199

their tickets are counterfeit The Durov Animal Theatre,

and they will almost certainly
be overpriced.
Children’s Entertainment
Traditional Russian
entertainments for children
have always included the
puppet theatre, the zoo and
the circus. Moscow has two
puppet theatres: the Obraztsov
Puppet Theatre (see p200),
which puts on matinee
performances for children, and
the Moscow Puppet Theatre.
The Nataliya Sats Children’s
Musical Theatre performs
excellent shows, great for
children of all ages.
The Russian Academic
Youth Theatre (see p90) puts on
a range of performances
suitable for children
from the age of seven.
Moscow Zoo is a
great favourite but,
unfortunately, the
animals often look
underfed and cramped
in their cages.
At Arlecchino
Children’s Club children
can play with toys and
computer games or be A scene from the story of Noah’s Ark being performed at the
entertained by clowns. Moscow Puppet Theatre
undoubtedly a much-loved
Moscow institution, has
attracted a loyal following
since its foundation in 1912.
Performing animals include
cats and dogs, as well as
farm animals. The affection
and concern for the well-
being of the animals is
clear to see.
Yuri Kuklachev’s unique
Moscow Cats Theatre,
which was established in
1990, has a troupe of more
than 100 feline actors of
different breeds performing
all manner of amazing tricks.
Performances include Olympics
Cat Boris and Cats of the
Universe, and are both these
shows are must-sees for
cat lovers.
Paddle boats, one of the many attractions
on offer in Gorky Park
Spectator Sports
Traditionally, the most popular
sports in Russia are football
and hockey. Important matches
and championships are held at
the Dynamo Central House of
Sports, the Luzhniki Stadium
and the Olympic Sports
Complex. On the whole,
Moscow’s football grounds
are safe, although hooliganism
is beginning to become a
problem. Krylatskoye also
has a racecourse and a
canal where rowing
races take place. The
Olympic Sports Complex
is Moscow’s main venue
for tennis tournaments.

Children’s
Entertainment
Arlecchino Children’s
Club
Детский клуб Арлекино
Verkhnyaya
Radishchevskaya
ulitsa 19/3, stroenie 1.
Map 8 E3.
Tel (495) 915 1106.
Durov Animal
Theatre
Театр Уголок Дедушки
Дурова
Ulitsa Durova 4.
Tel (495) 631 3047.
∑ ugolokdurova.ru
Moscow Cats Theatre
Театр Кошек Куклачева
Kutuzovsky prospekt 25.
Tel (499) 243 4005.
∑ catstheatre.ru
DIRECTORY
Moscow Puppet New Circus Spectator Sports
Theatre Новый цирк
Dynamo Central
Театр Кукол Vernadskovo prospekt 7.
House of Sports
Near Sparrow Hills (see
Spartakovskaya ulitsa Динамо – Центральный
p131). Tel (495) 765 0409. дворец спорта
26/30.
Lavochkina ulitsa 32.
Map 4 F2. Obraztsov Puppet
Theatre Tel (495) 454 9541.
Tel (499) 267 4288.
Театр Кукол имени
Luzhniki Stadium
Moscow Zoo Образцова
Лужники
Зоопарк Ulitsa Sadovaya-
Luzhnetskaya
Samotechnaya 3. Map 3
Bolshaya Gruzinskaya naberezhnaya 24.
A2. Tel (495) 699 5373.
ulitsa 1. Tel (495) 780 0808.
Old Circus
Map 1 C4. ∑ luzhniki.ru
Стаpый цирк
Tel (499) 252 3580. Olympic Sports
Tsvetnoy bulvar 13. Map
3 A3. Tel (495) 625 8970. Complex
Nataliya Sats
∑ circusnikulin.ru Спортивный
Children’s олимпийский комплекс
Musical Theatre Russian Academic Olimpiyskiy prospekt 16.
Детский музыкальный Youth Theatre Map 3 A1.
театр имени Нaтaлии Cац Российский Tel (495) 786 3333.
академический
Vernadskovo prospekt 5.
молодёжный театр
Near Sparrow Hills Teatralnaya ploshchad 2.
(see p131). Map 3 A5.
Tel (964) 595 2130. Tel (495) 692 0069.
200  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

The Arts in Moscow performed here and every four

years the conservatory plays
From June until late September most of Moscow’s concert host to the prestigious
halls and theatres close and the city’s orchestras, theatre and Tchaikovsky International
ballet companies perform elsewhere in Russia and abroad. Competition (see p35).
Moscow’s most prestigious
However, for the rest of the year the city has a rich and varied classical music gathering is
cultural scene. The Bolshoi Theatre (see pp92–3), Moscow’s the annual Svyatoslav Richter
oldest and most famous opera and ballet house, offers an December Nights Festival (see
impressive repertoire. Numerous drama theatres put on a p37). Held in the Pushkin State
variety of plays in Russian, ranging from the conventional to Museum of Fine Arts (see pp80–
83), the concerts attract a star-
the avant-garde. For non-Russian speakers there is a wide
studded array of Russian and
choice of events, ranging from folk dance and gypsy music foreign musicians.
to classical concerts by top international musicians. Evening In summer both indoor and
performances at most venues begin at 7pm or 7:30pm, while outdoor concerts are held
matinées generally start around noon. outside Moscow at Kuskovo
(see pp144–5) on Tuesday
and Thursday evenings.
Ballet and Opera Opera and the Stanislavskiy
There are numerous venues in and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow where visitors can see Musical Theatre. As its name Theatre
high-quality ballet and opera. implies, the Operetta Theatre Moscow has more than
Undoubtedly the most famous is performs operettas, while the 60 theatres, most of which are
the Bolshoi Theatre, originally Gnesin Music Academy repertory. This means that a
built in 1780. Despite two major Opera Studio stages more different production is staged
fires, the building remains experimental productions. every night. Listings can be
impressive and stands on its found in the Friday edition of
original site. Today the Bolshoi is The Moscow Times (see p215).
still the best venue in Moscow Classical Music The Moscow Arts Theatre (see
in which to see opera and Moscow has a strong tradition p94) stages a wide repertoire, but
ballet. Its magnificent main of classical music and has long it is particularly famous for its
auditorium has a seating been home to several top productions of Anton Chekhov’s
capacity of 1740. World-famous international music events. One plays, such as The Seagull. In
ballets, including Giselle by of Moscow’s most famous contrast, the Lenkom Theatre
Adolphe Adam and Swan Lake classical music venues is the produces musicals and plays by
and The Nutcracker by Pyotr Tchaikovsky Concert Hall. contemporary Russian writers.
Tchaikovsky, have been danced The main feature of this large Russia’s first drama theatre, the
here by the company. The circular auditorium is a giant Malyy Theatre, across the street
theatre’s operatic repertoire pipe organ, which has 7,800 from the Bolshoi, played a major
includes a number of works by pipes and weighs approximately role in the development of
Russian composers. Among 20 tonnes. It was made in Russian theatre.
them are Boris Godunov by Czechoslovakia and was The Obraztsov Puppet
Modest Mussorgsky, The Queen installed in 1959. Theatre (see p199) is as
of Spades and Eugene Onegin by The Moscow Conservatory entertaining for adults as it is
Pyotr Tchaikovsky, and Sadko by (see p96) is both an educational for children. It was founded in
Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov. establishment and a venue for 1931 and is named after its first
Another much younger concerts of classical music. It director, Sergey Obraztsov.
company, the Kremlin Ballet was founded in 1866 and The theatre’s repertoire is
Company, can be seen at the Pyotr Tchaikovsky (see p161), outstanding and most of the
State Kremlin Palace (see then a young composer at the plays can be enjoyed without
p58) in the Kremlin. This gigantic beginning of his brilliant a knowledge of the Russian
steel and glass building, career, taught here for 12 years. language. Evening perform-
originally constructed in 1961 Nowadays the conservatory ances may only be open to
as a convention hall for the has more than 1,000 music those over the age of 18.
Communist Party, has a students at any one time. Performances at the Gypsy
6,000-seat auditorium. It is a The Bolshoi Zal (Great Hall) is Theatre consist of traditional
prime venue for those wishing used for orchestral concerts, gypsy dancing and singing.
to see visiting Western opera both by the conservatory’s Performances of Russian folk
singers, as well as for ballet. resident orchestra and visiting dancing are held at various
Less grandiose, but never- orchestras. The Malyy Zal (Small venues throughout Moscow.
theless high-quality, operas and Hall) is used for recitals by smaller The Taganka Theatre,
ballets are performed at the ensembles. Over the years many favourite of Russian president
Helikon Opera, the Novaya prominent musicians have Vladimir Putin, has some
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M O S CO W  201

excellent productions such
as works by Mikhail Bulgakov.
The Mossoviet Theatre is also
among the city’s best, showing
alternative interpretations of
Shakespeare and excellent
productions of Russian classics.
Film
The Russian film industry
flourished under the Soviet
regime and Lenin (see p30)
himself recognized the value
of films for conveying messages
to the people. Specially
commissioned films shown
throughout Russia on modified
trains, for example, informed
much of the rural population
that there had been a revolution
in the capital.
Until the Soviet Union’s
collapse in 1991, the film
industry was run by the state.
Films were subsidized and their
subject matter closely monitored.
Russian film-makers now have
artistic freedom, but suffer from
a shortage of funding. Cinemas
show both Hollywood
blockbusters and Russian
releases. After a period of
stagnation, Russian cinema is
enjoying a real boom, and
domestically produced films are
now more popular than imports.
Many cinemas have out-of-
date equipment, muffled sound
and uncomfortable seats, but
the Oktyabr Cinema offers
digital sound and good facilities,
including an IMAX® screen. The
Illuzion, located in one of
Moscow’s Seven Sisters
buildings, has preserved the
spirit of the era it was built in
and screens old Soviet films.
For English-language cinema,
there are a few options within
the city centre. Pioneer caters
to foreign tourists well, showing
dubbed films as well as some
English-language screenings.
It also occasionally hosts film
festivals. Eldar screens mainly
blockbusters, while 35mm
specializes in independent
foreign films, usually shown in
the original language with
Russian subtitles. Rolan shows
art-house movies and festival
screenings. The Oktyabr Cinema
on Novyy Arbat also puts on
English-language films, though
the repertoire is more limited.
Some cinemas offer online
booking, although at most
venues tickets for films can
only be bought at the cinemas
themselves. At most, payment
is in cash.

DIRECTORY
Ballet and Opera Stanislavskiy and Theatre Film
Nemirovich-
Bolshoi Theatre Danchenko Musical Gypsy Theatre 35mm
Большой театр Theatre Театр ромэн Ulitsa Pokrovka 47/24.
Teatralnaya ploshchad 1. Leningradskiy Map 4 D4. Tel (495) 780
Музыкальный театр
Map 3 A4. prospekt 32/2. 9142. ∑ kino35mm.ru
имени Станиславского
Tel (495) 608 7317. Map 1 B1.
и Немировича-Данченко Arts Cinema
∑ bolshoi.ru Tel (495) 614 6058. Художественный кино
Ulitsa Bolshaya
Dmitrovka 17. Lenkom Theatre Arbatskaya ploshchad 14.
Gnesin Music
Academy Opera Map 2 F4. Театр Ленком Map 6 E1.
Tel (495) 723 7325. Ulitsa Malaya Tel (495) 691 5598.
Studio
Dmitrovka 6. Map 2 F3. Eldar
Театр-студия Оперы State Kremlin Palace
Tel (495) 699 0708. Эльдар
Рам Им. Гнесиных Государственныи
Malyy Rzhevskiy Кремлeвский дворєц Malyy Theatre Leninskiy prospect 105.
pereulok 1. Ulitsa Vozdvizhenka 1. Малый театр Map 6 F5.
Map 7 A1. Teatralnyy proezd 1. Tel (495) 735 9944.
Map 2 D5.
Tel (495) 690 2422. Tel (495) 917 2336. Map 3 A5. Illuzion
Tel (495) 624 4046. Иллюзион
Helikon Opera Classical Music ∑ maly.ru Kotelnicheskaya
Геликон опера
Moscow Arts Theatre naberezhnaya 1/15. Map 8
Bolshaya Nikitskaya Moscow
MXAT имени D2. Tel (495) 915 4339.
ulitsa 19. Map 2 E5. Conservatory
Московская Ап Чехова Oktyabr
Tel (495) 690 0971.
∑ helikon.ru консерватория Kamergerskiy pereulok 3. Октябрь
Bolshaya Nikitskaya Map 2 F5. Novyy Arbat 24.
Novaya Opera ulitsa 13/6. Tel (495) 629 8760. Map 6 D1. Tel (495) 545
Новая Опера Map 2 E5. 0505. ∑ karo.ru
Mossoviet Theatre
Karetny Ryad 3. Map 2 F3. Tel (495) 629 8183. Театр им. Моссовета Pioneer
Tel (495) 694 1830. ∑ mosconsv.ru Bolshaya Sadovaya 16. Пионер
∑ novayaopera.ru Map 2 D3. Kutuzovskiy prospekt 21.
Tchaikovsky Concert
Operetta Theatre Tel (495) 699 2035. Tel (499) 240 5240.
Hall
Театр оперетты Концертный зал имени Taganka Theatre Rolan
Ulitsa Bolshaya ПИ Чайковского Театр на Таганке Ролан
Dmitrovka 6. Triumfalnaya ploshchad Zemlyanoy val 76/21. Christoprodunyy
Map 3 A4. 4/31. Map 2 E3. Map 4 D4. bulvar 12A. Map 3 C4.
Tel (495) 925 5050. Tel (495) 232 5353. Tel(495) 915 1217. Tel (495) 916 9169.
202  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Music and Nightlife venues. They include Rolling

Stones, which is a popular club
Under the Communist regime, Moscow’s nightlife was with a large summer terrace,
practically non-existent and those clubs and bars that did and is ideal for those who enjoy
exist were for a privileged elite. Today, nightlife in Moscow is more main-stream pop and
clubbing tunes. Gipsy plays an
booming. Foreign bands, DJs and performers of all types now
eclectic mix, from techno to R&B,
visit the city regularly, while the quality of the domestic scene while Bar Strelka attracts large
has improved markedly. The variety of venues is similarly crowds, especially in summer,
impressive and ranges from bars where you can see local rock thanks to its large roof terrace.
bands to glitzy late-night clubs playing the latest techno The arty Solyanka club in the
music. The Russian take on modern dance music is Kitay Gorod district, another of
the city’s main nightlife areas,
noteworthy, as Russians like to party hard and long into the attracts a fashionable yet
night. Venues can be packed and prices high, but it is an unpretentious crowd and mainly
experience not to be missed. plays house and electro.
Keep in mind that many of
Moscow’s clubs are marred
Rock Venues Sixteen Tons favours bands by the practice of “face control”,
After years of being isolated from playing alternative and and the more upmarket venues
major Western pop and rock acts, independent music. are likely to look unfavourably
Muscovites can at last get to see on anyone wearing trainers
big-name artists in the flesh. and jeans.
Many of the more famous acts Nightclubs and Discos
from abroad, as well as the best The range of clubs to be found
in local talent, play at clubs such in Moscow is now on a par with Art Cafés
as B2, which has established other major capital cities and Some of the city’s more unusual
itself as one of the capital’s best new clubs open every month. clubs are the so-called “art cafés”,
live music venues, hosting a As elsewhere, nothing really such as Art Garbage or Drevo,
variety of acts from rock to ska. gets going until around 11pm. which promote an eclectic mix
Among the smaller venues, Entrance is usually cheaper or of entertainment. One night
PIPL, Kitaiskiy Lyotchik Djao free before this time although there might be live music, and
Da, Gogol and Art Garbage the queues can be long. Most the next an alternative fashion
showcase less well known acts. clubs don’t close until 4am; some show or an avant-garde film.
Djao Da is good for acoustic are open until 6am at weekends. Krizis Zhanra has live music
music; Gogol hosts alternative Domestic preference is still for and poetry in a cramped but
music bands; P!PL plays rock bass-heavy house music, with friendly setting. The bohemian
exclusively; and Art Garbage is trance also becoming popular. FAQ Café is a warren of cosy
slightly larger and has a more Foreign DJs often perform at rooms and features concerts on
sophisticated feel. clubs such as Propaganda and weekends. Many of the art cafés
Major rock concerts usually Fabrique. Propaganda is one are also good places to visit for
take place at either Olympiiskiy of the best known clubs, and a relaxed meal (see p191).
Stadium or Luzhniki Stadium. plays a variety of styles from the
latest electronic sounds to old
school disco. Fabrique plays Gay and Lesbian
Jazz, Blues and mostly house music. Cult offers Nightlife
Latin Venues more urban grooves, including Moscow has a thriving gay
Moscow has a vibrant jazz and drum & bass and four-to-the- community, despite the right-
blues scene, with clubs such as floor techno. wing stance taken by some
B2 featuring a live act most A number of Moscow’s political groups. The city has a
evenings. B2 is a one-stop shop leading clubs cater to Moscow’s diverse gay and lesbian club
for a night out and also has a “new-rich”, with prices and cover scene. One of the most well-
pool hall, sushi bar and a disco. charges to match. Soho Rooms, established venues is Central
Other clubs worth checking out located south of the centre, is Station, a large flamboyant
are the Roadhouse Blues Bar worth a visit, if only to spot the club with nightly stage shows
and the Igor Butman Jazz Club; partying catwalk models and and a karaoke bar. Sharm is
both put on good live music, Russian gangsters. Nearby is set on two floors and offers a
including acts from abroad. BB Luch, an upmarket bar that karaoke room and live shows.
King is a more intimate venue. attracts Moscow’s wealthy set Occupying a couple of base-
Café Ekus, a South American and is popular for cocktails. ment rooms, 12 Volt is a more
bar and restaurant, is a good Krasny Oktyabr, on the site of laid-back bar that quickly fills
bet for Latin American bands a former chocolate factory, is up at weekends, while
and hosts lively merengue home to some of Moscow’s Propaganda runs a popular
and salsa nights, as does Che. most fashionable nightlife gay night every Sunday.
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M O S CO W  203

DIRECTORY
Rock Venues Café Ekus Luch Central Station
Кафе Екус Лучь Центральная станция
Art Garbage Bolshaya
Bolshoi Sukharevsky Ulitsa Leninskaya
Запасник pereulok 25/23. Pirogovskaya 27/1.
Sloboda 19/2.
Starosadskiy Map 3 B3. Map 5 B5.
Tel (495) 287 0022. Tel (916) 478 2782.
pereulok 5. Tel (915) 106 6466. ∑ gaycentral.ru
Map 3 C5. Propaganda
Che
Tel (495) 628 8745. Пропаганда Sharm
∑ art-garbage.ru
Че
Bolshoi Zlatoustinskiy Шарм
Nikolskaya ulitsa 10/2.
pereulok 7. Zvenigorodskoye
B2 Map 3 A5. Map 3 B5.
Б2 Tel (495) 621 7477. schosse 11/1.
Tel (495) 624 5732.
Bolshaya Sadovaya Tel (966) 027 1460.
Igor Butman Jazz ∑ propaganda
ulitsa 8. moscow.com ∑ clubchance.net
Club
Map 2 D3.
Клуб Игоря Бутмана Rolling Stones
Tel (495) 650 9918.
Ulanskaya Hotel, Роллинг Стоунз
∑ b2club.ru Bolotnaya
Ulansky pereulok 16.
Gogol Map 3 C3. naberezhnaya 3.
Stoleshnikov Tel (495) 632 9264. Map 6 F3.
Tel (495) 504 0932.
pereulok 11. Roadhouse Blues Bar
Map 3 A4. Роудхаус Soho Rooms
Tel (495) 514 0944. Starovagonkovsky per. 19, Сохо Румс
∑ gogolclubs.ru Sabbinskaya
building 2.
naberezhnaya 12/8.
Kitaiskiy Lyotchik Map 6 F1.
Map 5 B3.
Djao Da Tel (495) 697 6008.
Tel (495) 988 7474.
Китайский Летчик Sixteen Tons Solyanka
Джао Да Шестнадцать тонн Солянка
Lubyansky proezd 25. Presnenskiy val 6. Solyanka ulitsa 11/6.
Map 3 B5. Map 1 B4. Map 7 C1.
Tel (495) 624 5611. Tel (499) 253 5300. Tel (495) 221 7557.
∑ jao-da.ru ∑ 16tons.ru
Art Cafés
Luzhniki Stadium Nightclubs
Лужники (Большая Drevo
and Discos
арена) Древо
Bar Strelka Ulitsa Malaya
Luzhnetskaya
Бар Стрелка Nikitskaya 16.
nabarezhnaya 24.
Bolotnaya Map 2 D5.
Tel (495) 780 0808. Tel (495) 691 4041.
naberezhnaya 14.
Olympiiskiy Stadium Map 6 F2.
Олимпийский Стадион FAQ Café
Tel (495) 771 7416.
Фак Кафе
Olympiyskiy prospekt 16.
Cult Ulitsa Bolshaya
Map 3 B1.
Культ Polyanka 65/74.
Tel (495) 786 3333. Map 7 B5.
Ulitsa Yauzskaya 5.
P!PL Map 8 D2. Tel (495) 951 5227.
Пипл Tel (495) 917 5706. ∑ faqcafe.ru
Derbenevskaya 22.
Fabrique Krizis Zhanra
Map 8 E5. Кризис жанра
Фабрик
Tel (495) 755 1146. Ulitsa Pokrovka
Kosmodamianskaya
16/16.
naberezhnaya 2.
Jazz, Blues and Tel (495) 623 2594.
Map 7 C2.
Latin Venues Tel (963) 687 8888. Gay and Lesbian
BB King Gipsy Nightlife
Биби Kинт Джипси 12 Volt
Ulitsa Sadovaya Bolotnaya naberezhnaya Tverskaya ulitsa 12/2.
Samotechnaya 4. 3/4, building 2. Map 2 E4.
Map 2 F2. Map 6 F3. Tel (495) 933 2815.
Tel (495) 699 8574. Tel (495) 699 8693. ∑ 12voltclub.ru
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 206–215

Getting to Moscow 216–219
Getting around Moscow 220–227
206  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Moscow is not as difficult for visitors to
find their way around as it may seem at
first. Certainly, the city is vast, street names
and signs are in Cyrillic and traffic can be
formidably heavy, especially in the centre. On
the other hand, public transport is cheap,
with an excellent metro system, and locals
working in hotels, restaurants and shops
will usually help tourists. Nonetheless, it
is a good idea for visitors to master a few
Russian phrases and familiarize themselves
with the Cyrillic alphabet to decipher
signs (see pp260–64).
Although Moscow receives more than four
million foreign visitors annually, the city’s
tourist information services are still fairly
basic. There is no main Tourist Information
Centre, but there is an English-language
Tourist Helpline that can offer advice. Visitors
requiring information on practicalities and
events should look on the Internet or ask
their hotel or travel agent. Moscow is one
of the most expensive cities in the world
to visit compared to Western equivalents,
so always enquire about prices before
booking something.

to the Russian embassy.

St Basil’s Cathedral on Moscow’s Red Square
When to Go
Visitors should not be daunted
by Moscow’s long, harsh
winters. Between November
and late March the
temperatures fall to around
-8°C, however, the city is well
equipped with an army of snow
ploughs and street cleaners to
deal with the ice and snow.
Sturdy footwear, warm layers
of clothing and hats are a must.
Temperatures in July and
August can exceed 30°C,
while spring and autumn
are usually dry and cool.
Visas and Passports
Citizens from most countries
will need a visa to enter
Russia. Only those from CIS
member states (excluding
the Baltic states, Georgia and
Turkmenistan) and some Latin-
American countries are exempt.
Before travelling check the latest
The ornate main hall of Klevskaya metro station, decorated with mosaics
entry requirements with your
local Russian embassy. Those
arriving by train will also need
a transit visa to pass through
Belarus. There are three main
types of visa: business (for
visitors who have been invited
by an organization or who want
to stay longer than a month),
private (for those who have
been invited to stay at a private
address) and tourist (for those
staying at a hotel).
If booking package deals,
visas will be arranged by the
tour companies. For
independent travellers, the
easiest way to obtain a visa is
to pay a modest fee and get
a specialist agent, such as
Andrews Travel House or Visa
Express, based in the UK, or
Travisa in the US, to arrange
it on your behalf. Moscow-
based Visa to Russia can also
arrange visas for visitors of any
nationality. Alternatively, apply
All visa applications must be
accompanied by a letter of
invitation, which your hotel,
travel agent or host can provide.
Those who are self-employed
must provide bank statements
with evidence of at least $160
(5,000 roubles) a day in funds
for the duration of their trip.
Travellers are required, as
a formality, to specify the
places they intend to visit
and from where they will exit
the country. However, visitors
are free to change their travel
plans once they have arrived
in Russia.
Visas normally take around
10 days to process but, if
speed is important, all the
specialist agents offer an
express service for an extra fee.
The cost of a visa depends on
the length of its validity as well
as how soon it is required. UK
and US citizens can expect to
pay $140 (4,400 roubles) for a
single-entry tourist visa valid for
a month and issued in advance.
EU citizens are charged $50
(1,500 roubles) for the same.
While tourist visas cannot be
extended, private and business
visa extensions can be made by
the organization or individual
that issued the invitation.
Overstaying your allocated
time can lead to a hefty fine.
All foreign nationals must
register with the Federal
Migration Service (FMS),
within 7 working days of arrival.
Hotels do this for their guests
automatically. If you have a

private visa your host must
register you at a local police
station or FMS office. Non-
registration can lead to on-the-
spot fines by local police of up
to $160 (5,000 roubles) for the
host party.
Customs Information
Passports and visas are
thoroughly checked at
immigration desks. Visitors
are given an immigration
card by immigration officials
on arrival, which must be
retained while in the country
and presented upon departure.
There are no official limits on
how much foreign currency
may be brought in, but visitors
carrying more than $10,000
(320,000 roubles) in cash
will be expected to fill
in a customs declaration
statement. Departure customs
are stricter than in other
countries, particularly with
regard to art and antiques
(see p193).
Embassies and
Consulates
Every country that has
diplomatic relations with
Russia has an embassy or
consulate in Moscow.
Embassy or consular officials
can re-issue passports and
offer advice and assistance
with interpretation in
emergencies. Anyone
intending to reside in Russia
for over 3 months is advised
to register with their own
country’s embassy.
Igumnov House, built in 1893, now the home of the French Embassy
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
Shop selling traditional souvenirs in central Moscow
Tourist Information
In the absence of any tourist
offices in Moscow, travel agents
and hotel concierges are often
the main source of guidance for
visitors. However, an English-
language Tourist Helpline, a
plethora of Moscow city guides
on the Internet and IntoRussia,
a company specializing in
Russian travel, provide plenty
of easy-to-find and helpful
information.
The city’s two English-
language newspapers, The
Moscow Times and The Moscow
News (see p215), both contain
useful listings. The free Moscow
In Your Pocket guide is another
good source of information.
Admission Prices
Moscow can be expensive
for visitors as most museums
charge higher admission
fees for visitors than Russian
residents. However there
are concession prices for
students and seniors.
 207
Opening Hours
In the city centre shops are
open 9am–7pm Monday to
Saturday and 10am–6pm
Sunday. Sights and museums
are open from 10am to 6pm,
but ticket offices may close an
hour earlier. Museums close
one day a week and one day
a month for cleaning. All
museums open on Sundays.
Cathedrals and churches are
open to visitors, but some are
only open during services.
Sign for open (otkryto)
Sign for closed (zakryto)
Language
Cyrillic, the alphabet used in the
Russian language, is named
after the 9th-century monks
Cyril (see p19) and Methodius
who invented it. Apparent
similarities between Cyrillic
and Roman letters can be
misleading. Some letters
are common to both alpha-
bets, others look similar but
represent different sounds.
The majority of Russians
do not speak English, but
those who regularly come
into contact with visitors
generally do. Knowledge of
even one or two words of
Russian (see pp260–64) will be
seen as a sign of respect.
208  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Visiting Churches
Attending an Orthodox
church service is a fascinating
experience. The most important
services take place on Saturday
evenings and Sunday mornings
and on religious holidays. In
general, services run for several
hours.The main Divine Liturgy
often goes on for 3 to 6 hours.
Russian churches do not have
any chairs, and the congregation
is expected to stand throughout.
While it is acceptable for visitors
to drop in on a service for a
while, certain dress rules must
be observed. Men must remove
their hats, while women should
not wear low-cut tops and
should cover their shoulders
and wear a headscarf or hat.
Shorts are not suitable for
attending a church service.
A woman leaving church after a service
dressed in a headscarf
Etiquette and Smoking
Russian manners and attitudes
have become more
Westernized, but the linguistic
distinction between the formal
“you” (vy) and informal “you” (ty)
remains strictly in force. On
public transport, young men
are expected to give up their
seats for the elderly or for
families with young children.
Smoking and drinking are
popular among Russians.
Frequent toasts are required
to justify the draining of
glasses. When invited to
someone’s home, visitors
should offer the toast za
Children playing on a cannon at the Armoury in the Kremlin
khozyayku (to the hostess) or
za khozyaina (to the host).
Many Russians are
superstitious. Most prefer not
to shake hands across the
threshold of a doorway and,
if someone accidentally steps
on a friend’s toes, the injured
party pretends to step back
on the perpetrator’s toes.
Public Toilets
Public toilets are often basic
and not pleasant, though most
cafés and bars have facilities. It
is best to find a toilet in a hotel
or department store, where
fees may range from 10 to
30 roubles. The attendent
who takes the money will
also hand out toilet paper
rations; it is a good idea to
carry your own.
Paying and Tipping
Roubles are the only valid
currency in Russia (see p213).
Some large shops and hotels
display prices in US dollars or
euros, but all cash payments
must be in roubles only.
Upmarket and mid-range
restaurants, hotels and shops
accept credit cards, but smaller
shops may not, so it is always
best to carry cash. Tipping is a
matter of choice.
Travellers with Special
Needs
Moscow has few facilities for
the disabled, but there are signs
of gradual improvement. A
number of high-end hotels
now offer specially equipped
rooms, a few central bus routes
have introduced wheelchair-
accessible vehicles and recently
refurbished museums cater for
the disabled. Despite these
changes, the city remains a
challenge for those with special
needs, so it is advisable to use
taxis to get around and phone
in advance to check if a tourist
sight has full disabled access.
Travelling with Children
Russians adore children, and
those accompanying visitors to
Moscow are likely to attract
plenty of compliments.
Children under seven travel
free on public transport.
Museums are free for under-
sevens and offer concession
prices to all school children.
The city has a wide range of
children’s attractions including
puppet theatres, circuses and
parks (see p199).
Gay and Lesbian
Travellers
Moscow’s gay and lesbian scene
continues to thrive (see p202) in
the face of extreme hostility.
In general, however, Russian
society is not very tolerant of
homosexuality. Gay and lesbian
travellers should be aware of
this as any public displays of
affection will almost always
attract unwanted attention.
Travelling on a Budget
Accommodation is expensive
in Moscow, so booking a
dorm bed in one of the city’s
many hostels is a good way
to save money. Another budget
option is Couchsurfing,
International Student Identity Card
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  209

where you can find places to Responsible Tourism

stay for free.
Bars and restaurants offer a
good-value three-course meal
on weekdays from noon to 4pm.
ISIC card holders are entitled to
discounts in museums and on
rail and air tickets booked
through STAR Travel.
Time
As of 2011, Russia has abolished
winter clock reversal and
Moscow is now 4 hours ahead
of Greenwich Mean Time
(GMT). This decision is still
under discussion.
Electricity
The electrical current in Russia is
220 V and two-pin European-style
plugs are used. UK appliances
require adaptors and US
appliances need a 220 V to
110 V current adaptor.
While Moscow is not renowned
as a green city, there are a few
(expensive) eco-friendly hotels
such as the Ararat Park Hyatt
Moscow (see p178) and Swissôtel
Krasnye Holmy (see p178), which
employ sophisticated energy
and conservation systems and
recycle much of their waste.
The centrally located
Dorogomilovsky Market is
one of Moscow’s largest farmers’
markets, selling fresh produce
from regional farms, including
fresh fruit and vegetables and
salted fish.
Moscow recycles just 10 per
cent of its waste, but the main
municipality has announced
plans to introduce a recycling
initiative that will provide
separate waste collection bins
at all metro and train stations,
airports, and in residential
apartment blocks through-
out the city.
Eco-friendly Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy
Conversions
Imperial to Metric
1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
1 foot = 30 centimetres
1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
1 ounce = 28 grams
1 pound = 454 grams
1 pint = 0.6 litres
Metric to Imperial
1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches
1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
1 gram = 0.04 ounces
1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
1 litre = 1.8 pints
Russia uses the Metric system.

DIRECTORY
Visas and Embassies and United Kingdom Travelling on a
Passports Consulates Smolenskaya Budget
Naberezhnaya 10.
Andrews Travel Australia Couchsurfing
Map 5 C1.
House 10A Podkolokolny ∑ couchsurfing.org
Tel (495) 956 7200.
23 Pembridge Square, pereulok 2. ∑ ukinrussia.fco.gov.uk STAR Travel
London W2 4DR. Map 7 D1. Uliysa Novoslobodskaya 3.
Tel (020) 7727 2838. Tel (495) 956 6070. United States
Map 2 E1.
∑ andrews-consulting. ∑ russia.embassy. Bolshoy Deviatinsky
Tel (495) 797 9555.
pereulok 8. Map 2 D5.
co.uk gov.au ∑ startravel.ru
Tel (495) 728 5000.
Federal Migration Canada ∑ moscow.usembassy.
Service (FMS) Starokonyushenny gov
Responsible
Pokrovka ulitsa 42. pereulok 23.
Tourism
Map 4 D4. Map 6 E2. Tourist Ararat Park Hyatt
Tel (495) 200 8497. Tel (495) 925 6000. Information Moscow
∑ russia.gc.ca Ulitsa Neglinnaya 4.
Travisa IntoRussia
18 Norland Road, Map 3 A4.
1731 21st St. NW Ireland
London W11 4TR. Tel (495) 783 1234.
Washington, DC 20009. Grokholskiy pereulok 5.
Tel 0844 875 4026/ ∑ moscow.park.hyatt.
Tel (202) 463 6166. Map 3 C2.
(020) 7603 5045. com
∑ travisa.com Tel (495) 937 5911.
∑ into-russia.co.uk Dorogomilovsky
∑ embassyofireland.ru
VisaExpress Market
Parnell House New Zealand Moscow In Your
Pocket Ulitsa Mozhavskiy val 10.
25 Wilton Road Ulitsa Povarskaya 44. Map 5 A2.
∑ inyourpocket.com
London SW1V 1LW. Map 2 D5. Tel (499) 249 5553.
Tel (020) 7251 4822. Tel (495) 956 3579. The Moscow News
∑ visaexpress.co.uk ∑ nzembassy.com/ ∑ themoscownews. Swissôtel Krasnye
russia com Holmy
Visa to Russia Kosmodamianskaya
Leninsky prospekt 29, South Africa The Moscow Times naberezhnaya 52,
Building 8, Moscow. Granatny pereulok, dom 1. ∑ themoscowtimes.
Building 6. Map 7 C2.
Map 2 E5. Map 2 F5. com
Tel (495) 787 9898.
Tel (495) 956 4422. Tel (495) 540 1177. Tourist Helpline ∑ swissotel.com/
∑ visatorussia.com ∑ saembassy.ru Tel (800) 220 0002. moscow
210  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health

Moscow is a safe city for tourists, despite its reputation. Petty
crime should be the visitor’s only concern, but can be avoided
if sensible precautions are taken. For language reasons it is a
good idea to keep a card with the address you are staying at
Police car
with you at all times for use in taxis and in emergencies. Also
keep a copy of your passport and visa. Obtaining medical
insurance before you travel is essential, as local healthcare
compares poorly with Western standards. Medicines are
readily available, but it is best to bring your own.

to ask for ID if in doubt. Carry

a photocopy of your passport
and visa and never hand Fire engine
over your original passport
to police.

A Russian police officer (militsiya) patrolling
the city streets
Police
Several kinds of police
officer operate on Moscow’s
streets. They change uniform
according to the weather,
wearing fur hats and big
coats in winter. The normal
police or politsiya, who
always carry guns, are more
frequently seen. The riot
police or OMON, who dress
in a camouflage uniform, are
rarely seen on the streets.
Totally separate are the
traffic police, recognizable by
their striped truncheons. Traffic
police can stop any vehicle to
check the driver’s documents
and issue on-the-spot fines.
Despite government attempts
to stamp out corruption, both
the politsiya and traffic police
are known to supplement
their incomes by picking
people up on minor offences
and charging a small “fine” of
their own. There have also
been instances of bogus
policemen approaching
tourists for fines, so it’s wise
In an Emergency
The emergency services
can be reached by dialling
01 for the fire department,
02 for police and 03 for
an ambulance, but the
operators are unlikely to
speak English so having a
Russian speaker to assist you
will be essential. If at all
possible, seek help first from
your embassy or consulate.
What to be Aware of
The greatest danger for visitors
comes from thieves who might
become violent if they
encounter resistance. As in any
country, it is advisable to hand
over belongings if they are
demanded with menace.
Travellers are advised to remain
vigilant against pickpockets,
particularly at popular tourist
attractions where large crowds
of people are gathered.
Women on their own may be
approached by kerb-crawlers,
who are best ignored, or may
be propositioned if alone in
bars and restaurants. Both
male and female travellers
should exercise caution if
invited to drink with strangers
as instances of drinks being
spiked are not uncommon.
At night it is safer to use taxis
booked in advance rather than
those hailed on the street.
Travellers, especially women,
should avoid walking alone
in the city late at night.
Ambulance
Lost and Stolen Property
Visitors should be vigilant
of pickpockets when travelling
on public transport and in
crowded areas. Being a
victim of pickpockets can
be avoided by steering clear
of overcrowded public
transport and not carrying
money in open pockets or
displaying large sums of
money in public. Bags should
be kept closed and roubles
kept apart from foreign
currency and credit cards.
It is advisable to carry only
a small sum of money for
purchases and keep the rest
separately or in the safe at
your hotel.
It is best not to stop for
gypsies who sometimes
frequent Tverskaya ulitsa
and the central metro
stations, apparently begging.
Hold tight to valuables and
walk resolutely on without
aggression. It is absolutely
essential to report thefts
to the police in order to
obtain certificates for
insurance claims. Report
first to the hotel security
staff who can deal with
the whole matter. Embassies
will help with serious
situations.

Hospitals and
Pharmacies
Most upmarket hotels have
their own doctor and this
should be the first port of
call for anyone who falls ill.
There are several companies,
notably the European
Medical Centre and the
American Medical Center,
that specialize in healthcare
for visitors. They can provide
everything that travellers are
likely to need, from basic
treatment to dental care,
X-rays, ultrasound scans and
even medical evacuation
home. Their charges are very
high, but they are all used
to dealing with foreign
insurance policies. The UK
and Russia have a reciprocal
healthcare agreement, so
basic treatment for UK citizens
in state hospitals should be
free of charge. US Dental
Care provides a full range of
dental treatment. For those
in need of urgent attention,
Pharmacy, identified by the word apteka
Emergency
Services
Ambulance (skoraya
pomoshch)
Tel 03.
Fire (pozhar)
Tel 01.
Police (politsiya)
Tel 02.
Hospitals
American Medical
Center
Американский
медицинский центр
Amerikanskiy
meditsinskiy tsentr
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
without the time to contact
any of the above, the casualty
department of the Botkin
Hospital is well equipped
and used to dealing with
foreign nationals.
Pharmacies in Russia are
all signed by the word
apteka and usually have an
illuminated green cross
hanging outside. They sell
many imported medications,
some with the instructions
still in the original language.
Prescriptions are not necessary
for any purchase, so antibiotics
and other strong medications
can be bought over the
counter. All the assistants are
trained pharmacists and can
suggest a Russian alternative
to visitors who name the
drug they are seeking.
However, visitors with
specific requirements,
particularly insulin, should
bring enough with them for
their whole stay. Moscow
has a number of all-night
pharmacies (see Directory).
Health Precautions
Visitors should not drink the
tap water in Moscow and
should avoid fruit and raw
vegetables that may have
been washed in tap water,
sticking to drinking bottled
water. Food in a foreign
country often unsettles the
DIRECTORY
Prospekt Mira 26, Spiridonievsky pereulok 5,
Building 6. Building 1.
Map 3 B2. Map 2 D4.
Tel (495) 933 7700. Tel (495) 933 6655.
∑ amcenter.ru
∑ emcmos.ru
Botkin Hospital
US Dental Care
Боткинская больница
Американский
Botkinskaya bolnitsa
стоматологический
2-oy Botkinskiy
proezd 5. центр
Amerikanskiy
Map 1 A1.
Tel (495) 945 0045. stomatologicheskiy
tsentr
European Medical
Centre Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5,
Европейский Building 2.
медицинский центр Map 2 F4.
Yevropeyskiy meditsinskiy Tel (495) 933 8686.
tsentr ∑ usdentalcare.com
 211
stomach and eating the meat
and sausage pies (pirozhki)
sold on the streets is sure to
cause an upset tummy.
Mosquitoes (komari) are
rife in the summer months
of June to late September.
Plug-in chemical mosquito
coils are available in
pharmacies. Alternatives
are sprays, or citronella oil
repellents used in vaporizers
or burned in candles. Ticks
are common in rural areas.
Travel and Health
Insurance
A comprehensive travel
insurance policy is
recommended for all visitors.
While travel health insurance
can be purchased separately,
most travel insurance policies
cover medical treatment as
well. Hospital bills can be
very expensive so it’s best to
choose a provider that will
reimburse the hospitals
directly while on your trip.
Vaccinations
Diphtheria has increased
among the local population,
and there is also a low risk
of rabies, polio and hepatitis
A and B. It is advisable to
be inoculated against
these before travelling
to Russia.
Pharmacies
Apteka 36.6
Аптека 36,6
Ulitsa Tverskaya 25/9.
Map 2 E3.
Ulitsa Valovaya 2–4/44.
Map 7 B5.
Leninskiy prospect 16.
Map 1 B1.
Tel (495) 797 6366.
∑ 366.ru
(Open 24 hours)
212  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Banking and Currency DIRECTORY

All major credit and debit cards can be used in Moscow to pay Banks
in hotels, upmarket and mid-range restaurants and shops. Alfa-Bank
Everywhere else, however, cash is the norm, so carry some at Альфа-Банк
all times. Roubles are the only legal currency, although prices Kuznetskiy Most 9/10, Building 2.
Map 3 A4.
are also quoted in US dollars and euros. There are numerous Tel 495 (620) 9191.
ATMs and bureaux de change located throughout the city ∑ alfabank.ru
and visitors can exchange currency or get roubles with a Bank Moskvy
debit or credit card. Bureau de change offices usually offer the Банк Москвы
best exchange rates, although rates of commission may vary. Ul. Novy Arbat 36/9.
Map 5 C1.
Tel (495) 925 8000.
cash advances against credit ∑ bm.ru
and debit cards. Alfa-Bank and
Sberbank offer the best rates. Master Bank
Мастер Банк
For anyone wishing to have
Runovskiy pereulok 12.
money sent to a bank in Russia, Map 7 C3. Tel (495) 232 2324.
these are also the most reliable ∑ masterbank.ru
banks. Master Bank and Bank
Moskvy also offer money Sberbank
Sberbank logo transfer and accept American Сбербанк
Express travellers’ cheques, and Gazetny pereulok 17, Building 2.
Banks and Bureaux prepaid currency cards can be Map 6 D2.
de Change used to withdraw cash at many
Tel (495) 692 3869.
∑ sbrf.ru
Roubles can be obtained ATMs. Western Union will
outside Russia, but the rates of transfer money to and from Western Union
exchange are usually better at Russia through a large number ∑ westernunion.co.uk
the bureaux de change found of banks and post offices in
around Moscow, including at Moscow; check the website Lost or Stolen Cards
the airports. Some offices are for details of agent locations American Express
open 24 hours a day. A passport and transfer rates. Tel (495) 933 8400.
usually has to be shown when Most independent bureaux
changing money. Any defect on de change offices in Moscow Visa
Tel (866) 654 0164.
foreign bank notes, especially will also accept all worldwide
vertical tears or ink or water currencies to convert, although
stains, makes them invalid be aware that some exchange
and they will be refused. offices may only convert US ATMs
There are only a few foreign dollars and euros. ATMs can be found all over
banks in Russia and they Moscow and sometimes in
generally do not offer over-the- the most unlikely of places.
counter services. Most Russian The usual precautions apply –
banks, however, do have avoid using machines that are
on-the-spot exchange services. not attached to a reputable
They will exchange a variety of A sign for a currency exchange office bank if at all possible.
currencies as well as offering (obmen valyuty)
Credit and Debit Cards
Credit and debit cards are
readily accepted in mid-
range and upmarket hotels,
restaurants and shops.
Cards can be used to
withdraw roubles, euros,
and US dollars from ATMs.
The most commonly accepted
card is Visa, with Diners,
MasterCard, Eurocard and
American Express less widely
used. Lost or stolen credit
cards should be reported
immediately to your credit
ATMs at a branch of Alfa-Bank card company.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  213

Currency Banknotes
The Russian currency is the There are five denominations of banknote,
rouble (or ruble), written with face values of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and
рубль or abbreviated to ȹ or 5,000 roubles, and they have the same designs
руб. The higher denominations as their pre-revaluation equivalents. When
of roubles are available in changing money check that the notes
banknotes, which all bear correspond to those shown here.
images of well-known Russian
cities, the lower denominations
in coins. The kopek, of which
there are 100 to a rouble, is
issued in coins.

10 roubles

50 roubles

100 roubles

500 roubles

1,000 roubles

5,000 roubles
Coins
The revaluation of the Russian
rouble in 1998 led to the
revival of the long-redundant
but much-loved kopek.
Traditionally, the rouble had
always consisted of 100 kopeks.
In addition to coins for 1, 2 and
5 roubles, there are now coins
valued at 1, 5, 10 and 50 1 rouble 2 roubles 5 roubles
kopeks. Any coins issued before
1997, prior to revaluation, are
essentially valueless. Visitors
should therefore always
examine change they receive
and refuse to accept any of
these old coins. 1 kopek 5 kopeks 10 kopeks 50 kopeks
214  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media
Moscow has an excellent city-wide and international telephone
service. There still remain some telephone boxes on the
streets, although card-operated phones are more widespread
than coin-operated ones and most Russians use mobile
phones. There has also been an increase in Internet usage and
the proliferation of magazines, newspapers and television
channels. Russia’s postal system has also improved, but
remains considerably slower than its Western counterparts.
Directions on how to
use a payphone appear
in English when the receiver
is lifted. If using a credit or
debit card, insert the card
and wait 15 seconds for
card verification before
dialling.
Phone cards come in 25,
50, 100, 120, 200, 400 and
1,000 units and are available
from kiosks and post offices.
To make an international
call at least 100 units are
needed. International and
inter-city calls are cheaper
Using mobile phones for calls and Wi-Fi in from 10pm to 8am in the
public spaces week and all weekend.
The Central Telegraph
International and Local Office has phones available
Telephone Calls to make international and
While payphones can still be local calls, paid for at the
found around the city, they counter. A cheap way to
are becoming ever rarer. The call abroad is to buy an
few available payphones that international calling card from
accept coins are less reliable a kiosk or post office, which
than those that accept credit or can be used with all payphones
debit cards or phone cards. and landlines.
Mobile Phones
If roaming is activated on your
mobile phone it can be used in
Russia, but the charges are likely
to be exorbitant. Calls made to
Russian numbers from your
mobile should start with the
country code (+7) followed by
the city code and number.
Prepaid Russian SIM cards
are a much cheaper option
if your phone is unlocked.
Your passport is required for
registration when buying a SIM.
These are available contract-free
from the main mobile network
operators – MTS, Megafon and
Beeline – and can be topped
up at phone shops, ATMs and
top-up points in underpasses.
Internet
The easiest way to access the
Internet, if you have a laptop or
smartphone, is to use the free
Wi-Fi provided by most cafés,
restaurants, bars, hotels and
public spaces. Wi-Fi has also been
introduced on the Ring Line of
Moscow metro. There are many
Internet cafés in the city centre.
Café Max, is one of the largest
and opens 24 hours a day.

Useful Dialling Codes

• Local directory enquiries (Moscow only): dial 09.
• Local calls: dial 8 (wait for the tone if using an
analogue phone) then the city code if necessary Internet café with computer access
(Moscow has two codes: 499 and 495) then the number.
• International calling cards: Dial the local access number Addresses
followed by the card number and the PIN, then dial the Russian addresses are given in
number starting with the country code and omitting 00. the following order: post code,
• Direct international dialling: Dial the country code followed city, street name, house (dom)
by the number:
number and, finally, apartment
UK: 044 followed by the area code (omitting the first 0) and
(kvartira) number. If a flat is part
number.
USA: 001 then the area code (omitting the first 0) and number. of a complex, a korpus (k)
Australia: 0061, then the area code (omitting the first 0) and number will also be given to
number. indicate which block it is in.
New Zealand: 0064, then the area code (omitting the first 0) and When visiting a flat, it is useful
number. to know which entrance
Irish Republic: 00353, then the area code (omitting the first 0) and (podezd) to the block to use
number. and when sending letters to
Italy: 0039, then the area code (including the first 0) and a Russian address it is crucial
number to include the correct six
digit postcode.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  215

Newspapers and Television and Radio

Romanesque-inspired façade of Moscow’s
grand Main Post Office
Postal Services
The Main Post Office and the
Central Telegraph Office are
Moscow’s most central post
offices. Smaller post offices are
marked почта (pochta), and can
be found all over the city. They
generally have blue post boxes
outside. Russian postboxes are
also marked почта and are
plentiful in the city centre.
Tourists should use the
small pale blue post boxes.
The yellow ones are used for
special delivery local services
only. Post offices sell regular
and commemorative Russian
stamps, postcards, envelopes
and phonecards.
International post is usually
reliable, but often quite slow
and is probably best avoided
except for postcards. For
important documents use a
courier service, such as DHL
FedEx, Pony Express and TNT
Express Worldwide. Keep in
mind that anything other than
paper will be checked by
customs which may delay
dispatch by an extra day or so.
Magazines
Moscow has one major English-
language daily newspaper,
The Moscow Times, which
covers both domestic and
foreign news. The Moscow
News, the city’s oldest English-
language newspaper, is
published twice a week
and has similar content.
Both papers are distributed
free in cafés, bars and hotels
and have excellent websites.
In Your Pocket Moscow is a
useful free guide published
in English every two months.
There is also a Russian-
language version of the
UK magazine Time Out, which
has extensive listings as well
as articles. It can be bought
at most newsstands.
To keep up with world events,
however, you are better off
visiting international news
websites or tuning into
foreign television.
Newspaper and magazine kiosk near Arbatskaya metro station
Hotels have long offered
Eurosport, CNN, BBC and
NBC channels. Russian-
language television is
dominated by imported
soap operas, which are
generally dubbed into
Russian rather than subtitled.
The best national news in
Russian is on NTV, and the
best local news on TV-Tsentr.
The BBC World Service no
longer transmits in Russia
except via satellite, but you can
tune in with a special receiver
or listen online, and other
English-language radio stations
are also accessible online.
Ekho Moskvy (91.2 FM)
provides a news service in
Russian. Popular stations
include Radio Maximum
(103.7 FM) and Love Radio
(106.6 FM), both of which play
Western music, and Russkoe
Radio (105.7 FM), which plays
Russian music.

DIRECTORY
Telephone MTC Main Post Office Map 2 D5.
Services ∑ mts.ru Главный почтамт Tel (495) 690 5568.
Ulitsa Myasnitskaya 26. ∑ tnt.ru
Central Telegraph
Postal Services Map 3 C4.
Office
Tel (495) 624 0250.
Internet
Центральный телеграф DHL ∑ moscowpost.ru Café Max
Tverskaya ulitsa 7.
1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya Ulitsa Pyatnitskaya.
Map 2 F5. Pony Express
ulitsa 11. Map 7 B2.
Tel (495) 504 4444. Ulitsa Pyatnitskaya 74.
Map 2 D3. ∑ cafemax.ru
∑ moscow.cnt.ru Map 7 B2.
Tel (495) 956 1000. Centre Internet Club
Tel (495) 981 1956.
Mobile Phones ∑ dhl.ru ∑ ponyexpress.ru Kuznetskiy most 12.
Map 3 A4
Beeline FedEx TNT Express Tel (495) 625 9288.
∑ beeline.ru Sokolnicheskiy Val 1L. ∑ gpntb.ru
Worldwide
Megafon Tel (495) 737 5223. UlitsaBolshaya Nikitskaya
∑ megafon.ru ∑ fedex.com/ru 22/2.
216  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

GETTING TO MOSCOW
The quickest and most comfortable way
to get to Moscow is by plane. Travelling
overland, especially by road, can be
difficult and often involves crossing
numerous borders and negotiating
roadworks and pot-holed roads. However,
if cost is the priority, arriving by train or
coach are cheaper alternatives, especially
for visitors travelling from St Petersburg
or from neighbouring countries, such as
the Ukraine or Belarus. Whichever route
is chosen, it is worth shopping around
to find the best deal as flight prices
fluctuate greatly throughout the
year. Many companies also offer
package deals.

Arriving by Air
There is a good choice of
flights to Moscow from the
UK. British Airways, BMI,
Aeroflot and Transaero
operate direct flights, while
several other airlines, including
SAS, KLM and Austrian
Airlines run a variety of flights
via a number of destinations.
Transaero, which flies direct
from London, is the only
reliable Russian alternative
to Aeroflot. Delta has direct
flights from the US along
with Transaero and Aeroflot,
which also operate long-haul
flights from Australia and
Canada. Despite popular
belief that Aeroflot’s flights
and in-flight service is of an
inferior quality, its international
fleet is maintained to a high
standard and the service is
usually of a high standard.
Tickets and Fares
Cheap trips are advertised
online and in the travel sections
of many newspapers and
magazines. Websites such as
www.lastminute.com and
www.skyscanner.net can find
the cheapest tickets and there
are several agencies in London
and New York that book trips
to Russia. Some only sell flights
while others, such as Russian
National Group, also book
hotel accommodation or offer
inclusive package deals. These
deals can be cheaper than
booking flights and
accommodation separately.
Some agencies also arrange
visas for travellers (see p206).
Andrew’s Travel House can
offer visas and provide detailed
travel itineraries for your stay
in Moscow. They can even
Passenger Terminal at Domodedovo airport
make restaurant and theatre
reservations on your behalf
before your arrival.
Airports
Moscow has three main airports,
each servicing both domestic
and international flights. The
largest is Domodedovo, to the
south of the city, which is closely
followed by Sheremetyevo,
which has six terminals.
Vnukovo, which is the smallest
of the three, has three terminals
and has been undergoing a
programme of expansion.
Domodedevo lies 42 km
(26 miles) southeast of
Moscow and, like all three
airports, is easily accessible
by the Aeroexpress rail link.
Sheremetyevo is situated
about 29 km (18 miles)
northwest of the city centre
and has a reputation for
lengthy queues at check-in.
Vnukovo is closest to the
centre (28 km/17 miles).
Information desks, exchange
offices, ATMs, duty free
stores, cafés and the like can
be found at all three airports.
All of Moscow’s main airport
terminals have free Wi-Fi
Internet access and are served
by 24-hour information desks
manned by helpful, multilingual
staff who can provide airport
and flight information and
advice to travellers about
transport to Moscow and
other cities. Although they
are unable to make hotel
bookings, they can assist
with locating pre-booked
hotels and will also contact
hotels on behalf of travellers
if necessary.
Lost luggage desks are
located next to the baggage
carousels in the various
terminals of the airports.
On Arrival
Travellers flying into Moscow
will need an immigration card.
At Domodedovo a printed-out
card will be given to travellers
by immigration officials, and
this should also be the case
at Sheremetyevo. Passengers
flying in to smaller airports
such as Vnukov will be given
a card by flight attendants
 GETTING TO MOSCOW  217

shortly before landing, which and the Vnukovo

should be completed with
personal details including
address, visa number and
departure date. The card has
two parts – one for entry and
the other for exit. The entry
half will be retained and you
must keep the exit slip and
present it to passport control
on departure. There is no need
to fill out a currency declaration
statement unless you are
carrying over 320,000 roubles
($10,000) cash.
Airport signs in Cyrillic and English found
in all Moscow’s airports
Transport from the
Airport to the City
The easiest way to get to and
from all three airports is the
Aeroexpress rail link – a
dedicated train service that links
the airports with train and
metro stations on the Circle
line. One-way tickets cost 320
roubles ($11) and trains depart
every 30 minutes from 6am to
midnight. The journey from
Domodedovo takes 45 minutes
and terminates at Paveletsky
station; the Sheremetyevo
train takes 35 minutes and
terminates at Belorussky station;
train takes 35 to
40 minutes and
terminates at
Kievsky station.
Frequent bus
services also
connect the
airports with
the city centre.
Buses leave
between 6am
and midnight Official taxis, which provide easy access to the city centre
but traffic
congestion often causes
delays. Bright blue buses
departing every 15 minutes
connect Domodedovo with
Domodedovskaya metro
station; bus 851 takes around
40 minutes to connect
Sheremetyevo with Rechnoy
Vokzal metro station; and
bus 611 from Vnukovo to
YugoZapadnaya metro station
takes 25 minutes.
It is recommended that
passengers arriving after
midnight use a taxi to reach
the city centre, however, it is
also possible to wait at the
airport for the next available
train or bus link to the city.
Official airport taxis can be
pre-booked by your hotel or
from desks within the terminal.
Unofficial drivers also ply their
trade inside and outside the
airports. They are generally safe, and from most major Russian
but it is much better to use the
official taxis. The taxi meters,
installed in most taxis, are rarely
used so it is vital to negotiate a
price for the trip beforehand –
the cost should be around
1,600 roubles ($54) to the city
centre. This price is for a
standard “economy class” car.
Most drivers increase their fares
when they have higher-quality
“business class” vehicles. No tips
are necessary. The journey takes
about 40 minutes, depending
on traffic.
Internal Flights
All of Moscow’s airports
handle domestic flights.
Passengers usually need
to show their passports on
departure despite the fact
that they will not be leaving
the country.
The majority of Aeroflot’s
domestic flights use
Sheremetyevo Airport’s Terminal
D, while the popular low-cost
airlines S7 and Transaero fly to
cities from Teminal B at
Domodedovo airport.
All domestic flights from
Vnukovo Airport fly to and
from Terminal A, from where
the low-cost airline UTair
Aviation has flights to
destinations around Russia.

On Departure
The maximum baggage
allowance per passenger is
23 kg of hold luggage and
10 kg of hand luggage.
Departure customs are stricter
than in other countries,
particularly with regard to
art and antiques (see p193).
If you have lost the exit half
of your immigration card,
you will need to visit the
Immigration Service offices
in the airport terminal to
Aeroexpress rail link, which connects to the Circle line metro in the city centre request a replacement card.
218  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Belorusskiy railway station
Arriving by Train
Moscow can be reached easily
by train from Paris, Brussels,
Berlin and several other
European capitals, but the trip
will take at least 24 hours and
you will need a transit visa for
Belarus. Be prepared for a
lengthy wait at the Russian
border as all of the train’s
wheels will be changed to
fit the wider Russian tracks
before proceeding.
Interior of an overnight sleeper
compartment
Moscow’s Major
Railway Stations
Belorusskiy
Serves Warsaw and cities
in Western Europe.
Belorusskaya.
Kievskiy
Serves Prague, Budapest
and Kiev.
Kievskaya.
Key
Railway station
Metro station
Three of Moscow’s main railway
stations are situated on
Komsomolskaya ploshchad (see
p146), also known as ploshchad
Trekh Vokzalov (Square of the
Three Railway Stations).
Yaroslavskiy and Kazanskiy
serve domestic routes only.
Leningradskiy is the terminus
for trains from St Petersburg and
Finland. Of the other stations,
Rizhskiy serves the Baltic and
Kievskiy serves Eastern Europe,
while at Belorusskiy trains
arrive from Western Europe,
Kaliningrad and Poland.
Paveletskiy and Kurskiy stations
handle arrivals from southern
Russia and parts of the Ukraine.
All eight railway stations are easy
to access as they are located
close to main metro stations.
All tickets must be booked
in advance. Due to the long
distances, the majority of trains
to Russia are overnight sleepers,
Rizhskiy Serves the
Baltic states of Latvia,
Lithuania and Estonia.
Rizhskaya.
Paveletskiy
Serves much of southern
Russia.
Paveletskaya.
but some standard trains operate
on the shorter routes. Trains can
be express (ekspressy) trains,
direct between Moscow and
St Petersburg only; fast (skorye)
trains, which operate on long
journeys and stop at only a few
stations; passenger (passazhirskie)
trains, which also operate on
longer routes, but stop at most
or all stations; and suburban
(prigorodnye) trains (see p227).
Arriving by Coach
Arriving by coach is only worth it
if travelling from a neighbouring
country or on a tight budget.
Routes to Moscow leave
Germany, the Czech Republic,
Slovakia, Poland, Hungary, Latvia
and Estonia. Some run via the
Ukraine, while others enter via
Belarus, for which a visa will be
required. From Ukraine or Belarus
takes 12–16 hours.
Yaroslavskiy
Serves the north of Russia
and the Golden Ring towns
(see p163).
Komsomolskaya.
Leningradskiy
Serves St Petersburg and
Finland.
Komsomolskaya.
Kazanskiy
Serves the Urals, Siberia
and the far east of Russia.
Komsomolskaya.
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
Kurskiy
Serves the Ukraine and parts
of southern Russia.
Kurskaya.

Travelling to Moscow
from St Petersburg
The easiest way of getting to
Moscow from St Petersburg
is by train. Express trains run
from Moskovskiy station in St
Petersburg to Leningradskiy
station in Moscow. Tickets can
be bought through a hotel or
from a travel agent.
Red Arrow train to Moscow from St Petersburg
Airlines
Aeroflot
Аэрофлот
Tel (495) 223 5555.
∑ aeroflot.ru
Austrian Airlines
Tel (495) 995 0995.
∑ austrian.com
BMI
Tel (0844) 848 4880.
∑ flybmi.com
British Airways
Tel (495) 363 2525.
∑ britishairways.com
Delta
Tel (404) 773 0305.
∑ delta.com
KLM
Tel (495) 937 3839.
∑ klm.com
S7
Tel (3832) 599 011.
∑ s7.ru
SAS
Tel (495) 961 3060.
∑ flysas.com
Transaero
Трансаэро
Tel (495) 788 6150.
∑ transaero.ru
Utair Aviation
Tel (495) 228 0380.
∑ utair.ru
GETTING TO MOSCOW  219
The most atmospheric trains compartments have locks,
are the night-time Red Arrows which should be used,
that were once used by the especially at night.
Communist elite. Nos. 1 and 3 From Moscow to
travel from St Petersburg to St Petersburg the high
Moscow, and Nos. 2 and 4 speed Sapsan trains run
from Moscow to St Petersburg. daily and cover the distance
The Grand Express No. 54 is in under 4 hours at speeds of
considered the most luxurious up to 150 mph (250 km/h).
as it offers Grand Delux cabins Ticket prices vary depending
with a toilet, on class and the services
DVD player and included. There is a choice
complimentary between sidyashchyy (sitting)
slippers. All these tickets and more expensive
services leave at sleeper options. Food may
midnight and be available, but visitors are
arrive at 8am the advised to bring their own.
next morning. Bed linen costs extra.
Travellers should Alternatively a flight takes
be wary of thieves 50 minutes, but allow plenty
on the overnight of time to get to and from
trains. Most the airport (see p216).
DIRECTORY
Tickets and Fares Arriving by Train Paveletskiy
Павелецкий
Andrews Travel Belorusskiy Paveletskaya ploshchad 1.
House Белорусский Map 7 C5.
23 Pembridge Square, Tverskoy Zastavy Tel (800) 775 0000.
ploshchad 7. Map 1 C2.
London, W2 4DR.
Tel (499) 623 8557. Rizhskiy
Tel 020 7727 2838.
Рижский
∑ andrews-consulting. ∑ belorussky.dzvr.ru
Ploshchad Rizhskovo
co.uk Kazanskiy vokzala.
Казанский Tel (495) 266 8512.
Russian National
Komsomolskaya ∑ rizhsky.dzvr.ru
Group
ploshchad 2.
224 West 30th St, Yaroslavskiy
Map 4 D2.
Suite 701, NY 10001. Ярославский
Tel (499) 266 1994.
Tel (877) 221 7120. Komsomolskaya
∑ kazansky.dzvr.ru
∑ russia-travel.com ploshchad 5.
Kievskiy Map 4 D2.
Airports Киевский Tel (499) 266 9320.
Ploshchad Kievskovo ∑ yaroslavsky.dzvr.ru
Aeroexpress Airport vokzala.
Rail Link Map 5 B2.
Arriving by Coach
Tel (800) 700 3377. Tel (499) 240 7339.
General Enquiries
∑ aeroexpress.ru ∑ kievsky.dzvr.ru Tel (499) 748 8029.
Ticket Bookings
Domodedovo Kurskiy
Tel (499) 748 8718.
Домодедово Курский
∑ busmow.ru
Tel (495) 933 6666. Ulitsa Zemlyanoy val 29.
∑ domodedovo.ru Map 4 E5.
Moscow Central Bus
Tel (800) 775 0000.
Sheremetyevo Station
∑ kursky.dzvr.ru
Шереметьево Московский автовокзал
Leningradskiy Moskovskiy avtovokzal
Tel (495) 578 6565.
Ленинградский Nr Shchelkovskaya metro,
∑ svo.aero
Komsomolskaya Uralskaya ulitsa 2.
Vnukovo ploshchad 3. Tel (495) 468-0400, or
Внуково Map 4 D2. 468-4370.
Tel (495) 937 5555. Tel (495) 663 1398.
∑ vnukovo.ru ∑ leningradsky.dzvr.ru
220  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

GETTING AROUND MOSCOW

Moscow’s vast metro network has stops close
to all the major sights and is the most reliable
way of travelling around the city. However, it
can get extremely crowded. Moscow is also
served by buses, trolleybuses and trams and
services are relatively frequent. Knowledge of
the Cyrillic alphabet will help with reading
signs on these services, although there are
some English signs. Suburban buses are
useful for travelling to Moscow’s outlying
districts and bus routes start at all major
metro stations. Trams run as far as the
outskirts of the city and trolleybuses cover
the popular routes in the city centre. Taxis
are the most flexible, but also the most
expensive, way of getting around.

offers good opportunities

Cycling along the Moskva river
Green Travel
As green initiatives are limited
in Moscow, an easy way to
reduce your carbon footprint is
by choosing a centrally located
hotel for ease of access to the
main sights. The centre can be
covered on foot and guided
walking tours are run
throughout the year. There are
no city-run cycle initiatives in
Moscow, but cycle hire is
possible and is a great way
to get around the city. In the
winter months it is best to
use public transport, an eco-
friendly alternative to taxis
or cars. Some Muscovites
even cross-country ski to
get around the suburbs.
Guided Tours and
Excursions
Hotels can book places on
group guided tours and day
trips. Alternatively, agencies
such as IntouristUK offer a
wide range of themed tours,
including city trips and special
trips to areas out of town.
Patriarshy Dom Tours organize
tours in English, including trips
around the KGB Museum, the
Kremlin and State Armoury, as
well as hiking expeditions. Tours
should generally be booked at
least 48 hours in advance.
Anyone interested in a
unique visitor experience
away from the tourist sights
should try Moscow Greeter,
who offer a free walking tour
with a local resident.
Walking
Moscow covers a vast area
so is not easily negotiable on
foot. However, the central area
within the Boulevard Ring,
where many sights are located,
Walking through the cultural district of
Old Arbat
for walking. At the heart of
the city are Red Square (see
p108) and the Kremlin (see
pp55–69), which are only
accessible on foot. Visitors
should allow 3 hours to cover
this area, including all the
cathedrals in the Kremlin.
Across the river from here,
beautiful Zamoskvoreche
(see pp116–27) is another
district to be enjoyed on foot.
Muscovites themselves are
not great walkers but, in the
evenings or at weekends, they
can often be seen taking a
stroll around the Old Arbat
(see pp72–3), a district of the city
frequented by artists, musicians
and street performers. Other
places to enjoy a walk are
Tverskoy Bulvar, numerous
parks – in particular Gorky
Park (see p131), Izmaylovo
Park (see p143) – and by the
Moskva river.
When walking around the
city, wear sturdy shoes, and
preferably old ones as Moscow
can be dirty. Traffic is heavy
and major roads can often
be crossed via subways.
Alternatively use a zebra
crossing if a green light
shows: drivers in Moscow
do not stop at zebra crossings
without lights.
It is not advisable to walk
around the city alone at night.
Cycling
Although there are no cycle
routes in Moscow, there are
some lovely parks to discover
and the roads next to the
Moskva river are wide enough
for cyclists and pedestrians,
making it a great way to explore
the centre. Cycle rental outlet
 GETTING AROUND MOSCOW  221

DIRECTORY
Guided Tours
Moscow Greeter
∑ moscowgreeter.ru

Patriarshy Dom Tours

Vspolniy pereoluk 6.
Map 2 D4. Tel (495) 795 0927.
∑ toursinrussia.com

Double-decker river boat, a good way to view the sights along the river
Kruti-Pedali offers bikes and
equipment by the day costing
around 700 roubles ($21). To hire
a bike leave a passport or a cash
deposit of 3,000 roubles ($95).
Bikes can be rented between
10am and 10pm. Cycle guides
can be arranged.
Taxis
For safety reasons it is best
to travel only by official taxis,
which come in a range of guises
but should at least have a taxi
light on the roof and some
kind of chequered markings.
Restaurant or hotel staff can be
asked to book one by phone or
you can try Taxi956, which
employs some English-speaking
operators. A minimum fare for
journeys up to 40 minutes costs
around 500 roubles ($15), while
Cycling
Kruti-Pedali
other taxis have meters starting Universitetskiy prospekt 6/1.
from 200 to 300 roubles ($6–9). Map 2 E4. Tel (495) 6421942.
Journeys within the city should ∑ kruti-pedali.ru
not cost more than 500 roubles
($15). It is always best to agree Taxi
on a fare before the start of
the journey. It is possible to flag Taxi956
Tel (495) 956 8956.
down a taxi on the street. Some
∑ taxi956.ru
switch on a green light, either
on their window or on their River Cruises
roof, to indicate they are free.
Taxis to the airport should Capital Shipping Company
be booked in advance and Tel (495) 225 6070.
cost around 1,600 roubles ∑ cck-ship.ru
($54). Some hotels have their
own taxi ranks, but these can
be very expensive. cruises from May to October
along the Moskva river. The
main pick-up point for these
River Cruises cruises is opposite Kievskiy
River cruises are popular in station. Stops are located
summer, as it is a great way to along the river so you can
see the sights lining the river. hop on and off using either
Capital Shipping Company run a single or a day ticket.

River Cruise Route

White
House St Basil’s
Cathedral
Cathedral of Chambers of the
the Assumption Romanov Boyars
Foreign Pushkin
Ministry Museum State Armoury Bolshoy
of Fine Arts Ustinskiy most
Kievskiy station
Bolshoy
Cathedral of Christ Kamennyy most
the Redeemer

Tretyakov
Krymskiy most
Gallery

New Tretyakov
Gallery Bakhrushin
Novospasskiy
Theatre Museum most
Gorky
Park

Novodevichiy Frunzenskaya
Convent naberezhnaya Krutitskoe
Mission

0 kilometres 1

0 miles 1
Sparrow Hills
222  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

The Metro
Moscow is a sprawling, hectic city. One of its great assets,
however, is its excellent metro network, which extends from
the centre right out to many of its suburbs. During the rush
hour, in particular, heavy traffic means that it is often faster
to travel by metro than by car or any other form of public
transport. For years all transport in the Soviet Union was
extremely cheap and metro fares are still very good value.
Passengers pay the same fare regardless of the length
Metro train ready to depart from
of their journey. The metro system is reliable with trains
Mayakovskaya metro
running frequently throughout the day. Constructed as part
of Stalin’s grand plan for rebuilding Moscow, the metro The Moscow metro is on the
stations are also a popular tourist attraction (see pp40–43). whole safe and reliable. All the
stations are staffed, although
metro attendants are unlikely
to speak languages other than
Russian. Metro stations are
buried deep underground
and escalators lead down to
the platforms. Several stations
are equipped with lifts for
disabled access; check http://
engl.mosmetro.ru for more
information.
Travellers who have a large
bag or a suitcase will be asked
to pay an added charge.

The ornate, cavernous interior of Arbatskaya metro
The Network instance, links to Belorusskaya
The Moscow metro network is metro and Kievskiy railway
well planned and extensive station to Kievskaya metro.
consisting of 12 lines that However, Komsomolskaya,
cover the whole city except also on the circle line, is the
its outermost suburbs. One exception. It links to three
feature worth noting is the mainline railway stations –
Circle line connecting all the Leningradskiy, Kazanskiy
mainline railway stations (see and Yaroslavskiy.
p218). Changing between the The metro lines are colour-
metro and a mainline station coded and numbered 1 to 11
is generally easy as both have and M1. Metro station signs are
the same name, but with a in English and Cyrillic, but a
slightly different ending. basic grasp of the Cyrillic stop
Belorusskiy railway station, for names will be useful. Trains
arrive every 1–2
minutes on weekdays,
while services are
slightly less frequent
at weekends. During
the rush hour the
waiting time for trains
is usually under a
minute. Stops are
announced on board
the train and the
The imposing marble arch entrance of the Kropotkinskaya exits are marked
metro station выход (vykhod).
Changing Lines
For those unused to the
complexity of Moscow’s metro
system, journeys can be made
even more confusing by the
fact that stations where it is
possible to change between
metro lines often have two
or more separate names, one
for each line involved. On the
metro map (see p224) these
interchange stations are
bracketed together. For
instance, near the centre of the
city there is an interchange
between four lines – 1, 3, 4
and 9 – each of which is served
by a different station.
Correspondingly, four station
names are given on the map:
Biblioteka imeni Lenina,
Arbatskaya, Aleksandrovskiy
Sad and Borovitskaya.
When changing lines at
an interchange station it is
therefore important to know
the name of the station on the
other line. It is then easy to
reach the right platform by
following the (perekhod) –
or “interchange” – signs
indicating this name.

Tickets and Travel Cards
There are no 1-day travel
cards in Moscow. Instead
passengers should buy a smart
card, which can be credited
with 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 or 60 journeys,
or with a travel pass that allows
unlimited travel for 3 months
up to a year.
A single journey has a flat rate
of 40 roubles ($1), whether your
journey is a couple of stops or
the length of the network. This
also means that it is possible
to change as many times as
necessary if exploring the
metro’s architectural highlights
(see pp40–43). Buy enough rides
for your stay at one time to
avoid waiting at the ticket
machine or касса (kassa) –
counter, where queues can
be long during rush hour.
At the automatic barrier simply
swipe your smart card across the
yellow detector that reads the
information. Any number of
people can travel on the same
card since they all pay exactly the
same fee for their journey. When
the card is swiped at the barrier,
the passenger is allowed through
if the card is valid and the
number of journeys left will be
reduced by one. The number of
remaining journeys will then
flash up on the barrier display.
There are no child tickets on
the metro, but children under
seven travel free. Metro ticket
counters also sell phone cards
and tickets for buses, trolley-
buses and trams (see p225).
Magnetic smart card being held over a
detector at a metro barrier
GETIING AROUND MOSCOW  223
Making a Journey by Metro
1 Study the metro map (see p224)
and plan your journey in advance
as the station names on each
platform are not visible from inside
the train. It is well worth learning
the pronunciation of the station
names as announcements will
indicate which station you are
approaching. It is also a good idea
to count the number of stops.
2 Purchase a smart card from the
касса (kassa), the counter situated
just inside the metro station. Swipe
the card over the yellow detector
at the automatic barrier to gain
access to the train platforms.
3 To find the right
platform follow signs
headed к поездам до
станции (k poezdam
do stantsiy), which
show the stops in each
direction from the Stops in one direction
station you are at. These signs
are sometimes colour coded.
4 On the platform, consult
the signs showing all
the stops of the line
you are using. Trains
always stop at each
one. Look at the vertical
lists beneath each
interchange station.
These show which
subsequent stations Colour of Stops on
you reach by changing intersecting line other lines Line
at that point.
5 Look at the digital
board showing
the time that has
elapsed since a train
last left the station.
On weekdays Current time Minutes and seconds
another one will since last train
usually arrive within
1 or 2 minutes.
6 If you change to a
different line during
your journey, follow
the signs marked
with either переход
(perekhod) or на
станцию (na Interchange sign
stantsiyu) and the
appropriate station
name. Once at your
destination follow
signs for выход
(vykhod) to locate Exit and interchange sign
the exit.
224  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

The Moscow Metro

Key line 5 (Circle) line 10

line 1 line 6 line 11
line 2 line 7 line M1 (monorail)
line 3 line 8 under construction
line 4 line 9
 GETTING AROUND MOSCOW  225

Travelling by Tram, Trolleybus and Bus while trolleybus 2 follows ulitsa

Novy Arbat to the centre where
Moscow has extensive bus, trolleybus and tram routes and it passes around Red Square
some of the most useful ones are identified on the transport and the Kremlin (see p108).
map on the inside back cover of this book. Some routes link to
the metro network (see pp222–4), often starting at one metro Buses
station and terminating at another. Main avenues are generally Buses are useful for travelling
served by both buses and trolleybuses. Trams are less useful, to Moscow’s outlying suburbs
but as a sedate form of transport they are great for sightseeing. where distances between metro
Busy routes can get extremely crowded during the morning lines are much greater than in
and evening rush hours and traffic is often slow-moving at the city centre. Bus stops are
often shared with trolleybus
these times. Moscow’s more remote suburbs are well served by stops and marked by a white
these forms of transport. Bus stops are clearly signed and are at and yellow sign showing the
frequent intervals. Tram stops are occasionally further apart. Cyrillic letter “A”. Buses are yellow,
red, or red and white. Bus
services within the city centre
are limited and there are none
running along Tverskaya ulitsa.
There are, however, several bus
routes that run up Kutuzovskiy
prospekt past the Borodino
Panorama Museum, the
Triumphal Arch and Victory Park.

Tickets and Travel Cards

One-day travel cards are not
available in Moscow, but you
A tram passing through Moscow on route to suburban areas can buy tickets valid for 1, 2, 5,
10, 20 or 60 journeys. The same
Trams Trolleybuses tickets can be used on buses,
Trams remain Moscow’s most Trolleybuses are an trolleybuses and trams and
traditional means of transport. environmentally friendly way of are valid for a single journey
They provide an interesting way travelling around the city centre. without changes. Buy tickets
to see the city and the ride itself is Even though local residents from kiosks located next to bus
an experience. Although services prefer travelling by bus, most of stops or from the driver paying
have been cut back over the the routes are still busy during in cash. If the bus or trolleybus
years, trams are gradually being rush hours. Trolleybus stops are has a turnstile at the front, you’ll
re-introduced as a historical form often shared with bus stops and need to insert your ticket before
of transport along the more marked by a sign with a bus entering. If there’s no turnstile,
popular routes in the centre. symbol on a white background get on the bus and validate
The remaining tram services and the Cyrillic letter “T”. your ticket by inserting it into
run frequently, especially those Trolleybus 3 travels around the one of the yellow ticket readers,
operating in the suburbs, Garden Ring and is good for which will stamp the time and
providing good links to metro getting to the major sights, date on the ticket.
stations and apartment blocks.
Tram stops are marked by a
sign labelled “Tp” in Cyrillic
with a tram symbol on a white
background and usually have
a semi-circular shelter with a
bench. Trams have one or two
carriages, each with three doors.
Enter via the front door.
Tram route A, which starts at
Chistye Prudy metro is one of
the city’s oldest and, along with
39 and 3, it is the most useful
route for visitors to the city as
it passes close to the many
major sights located in the
centre of Moscow. Passengers boarding a bus
226  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Driving in Moscow DIRECTORY

Driving in Moscow can be quite gruelling and it is not Car Hire
advisable for the uninitiated. The city suffers from chronic Avis
traffic congestion and most driving regulations that would 4-yy Dobrynskiy pereulok 8.
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Sheremetevo Airport Arrival Hall
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and veer dangerously to avoid pot holes. Drivers tend to be Domodedovo Airport Arrival Hall
aggressive and inconsiderate about giving way to one Tel (926) 626 4575.
another. Road signs mostly follow international conventions Vnukovo Airport Arrival Hall
Tel (495) 578 8425.
but are rarely bilingual, so it is well worth drivers familiarizing
∑ avis.com
themselves with Cyrillic place names in advance.
Europcar
Driving In winter, drivers must use
4-yy Dobrynskiy pereulok 8.
Map 7 A5.
Driving regulations in Moscow studded tyres as roads are icy
Sheremetevo Airport Arrival Hall
are complex. Russia’s traffic police and covered with snow. Driving
Tel (495) 926 6373.
(see p210) have the right to stop in these conditions is dangerous
Domodedovo Airport Arrival Hall
drivers at any time and ask for and not advisable.
Tel (964) 558 1997.
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on the spot for infringements
such as not having a fire Parking Hertz
extinguisher or first-aid kit and On-street parking is free in 1-ya Brestskaya ulitsa 34.
not wearing seat belts. It is central Moscow, but drivers Map 2 D2.
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front-seat passengers to wear fines for parking in restricted Sheremetevo Airport Arrival Hall
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drink any alcohol at all and fines parked cars are frequently towed Tel (495) 971 3056.
for drink-driving can be very high. away. Car parks are identified Vnukovo Airport Arrival Hall
It is illegal to make U-turns on by a white letter “P” on a blue Tel (495) 775 8333.
∑ hertz.com
many of Moscow’s main streets. back-ground. Car parks are open
Priority is always given to 24 hours. Many of the larger
Breakdown Services
traffic approaching from the hotels have parking facilities.
right unless a yellow, diamond- Angel Road Rescue Service
shaped sign indicates otherwise. Ангел
The buying of driving licences, Car Hire Tel (495) 747 0022.
rather than obtaining them Several well-known companies ∑ angelclub.ru
through legitimate means is operate in Moscow. Hertz and
common in Russia so visitors Avis have offices at all three
should not necessarily assume airports, while Europcar has in the city centre. Visitors hiring a
that all road users are qualified offices at Sheremetyevo and car must show a driving licence,
and responsible. Domodedovo airports as well as passport and credit card on
collection. Some of the larger
hotels can arrange car hire on
your behalf.

Driving Outside Moscow

The roads leading out of
Moscow are in reasonable
condition, but Kutuzovskiy
prospekt is particularly well-
maintained because it is used
by government officials and
the New Russians who own
dachas (second homes) in this
area. It is vital to have a good
map because side roads to
small villages can easily be
missed. Road signs outside of
Multiple lanes of traffic in central Moscow Moscow will be in Cyrillic.
 GETTING AROUND MOSCOW  227

Excursions from Moscow The Trinity Monastery of St

Sergius (see pp164–7) is also to
Arrangements to visit sights outside Moscow (see pp128–69) the northeast along Yaroslavskoe
can be made through either a hotel or a travel agency, or the shosse and the journey takes just
trip can be made independently by train, bus or car. Most of over an hour. It is possible to get
there by train or by bus from
the places mentioned below are not far from Moscow and can Yaroslavskiy station, and by bus
be visited on a day trip. A few, such as Suzdal and Vladimir, from Moscow Central Bus Station.
take two days. Patriarshy Dom Tours (see p220) offers a wide Pereslavl-Zalesskiy (see p162)
range of excursions to the major sights around Moscow. It is can be reached by car along
advisable to enquire in good time as reservations with them Yaroslavskoe shosse, by train
have to be made 48 hours before departure. from Yaroslavskiy station, or by
bus from Moscow Central Bus
Station. The trip along all routes
takes approximately 2 hours.

Train arriving at Sergiev Posad for the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
Using Trains and Buses
Suburban trains (prigorodnye
poezda) to the nearer sights
can be caught at the
appropriate mainline station
(see p218). They offer good value
for money as foreign nationals
pay the same fare as Russians.
The more distant sights are
served by passenger trains
(passazhirskie poezda).
Suburban buses (prigorodnye
marshruty) to closer sights leave
from Moscow Central Bus
Station outside Shchelkovskaya
metro station in the northeast
of the city. Towns outside
Moscow are served by inter-
city buses (mezhdugorodnye
avtobusy).
One-Day Trips
Novodevichiy Convent (see
pp132–3) and Kolomenskoe
(see pp140–41) are both south
of the city centre, the former
close to Sportivnaya metro,
the latter to Kolomenskaya
metro. Kuskovo (see pp144–5),
in eastern Moscow, is reached
by metro, to Ryazanskiy
Prospekt or Vykhino. The estate
is a short bus ride away.
Arkhangelskoe (see p160), 20 km
(12 miles) to the west of the city
centre, is served by Tushinskaya
metro and then a bus. By car it
is on a straight route out along
Volokolamskoe shosse or
Rublevskoe shosse.
It takes around 2 hours to
travel to the village and
battlefield of Borodino (see p160)
by train from Belorusskiy station.
It can also be reached by bus
from Moscow Central Bus
Station or by car leaving the
city on Mozhayskoe shosse.
The Tchaikovsky House-
Museum (see p161) is 2 hours
northwest of the city by car on
Leningradskoe shosse. Trains
leave from Leningradskiy station
and buses from Moscow Central
Bus Station.
Abramtsevo Estate-
Museum (see p162)
is situated to the
northeast of Moscow
just off Yaroslavskoe
shosse. Trains leave
from Yaroslavskiy
station and buses
depart from Moscow
Central Bus Station.
The journey takes on Day-trip buses awaiting passengers outside Kievskiy
average an hour. station
Two-Day Trips
Suzdal (see p168), 200 km (124
miles) northeast of Moscow, is
reached by leaving the city on
Gorkovskoe shosse. Buses to
Suzdal leave from Moscow
Central Bus Station and take
about 4 hours.
Vladimir (see pp168–9) is also
situated northeast of the city
along Gorkovskoe shosse. The
170-km (106-mile) trip can be
made by bus from Moscow
Central Bus Station or by train
or car in 3 hours.
Yasnaya Polyana (see p169) is
180 km (112 miles) south of
Moscow on the Simferopolskoe
shosse. Buses from Moscow
leave from Domodedovskaya,
Prazhskaya, ulitsa Akademika
and Yangelya metro stations
to Tula, where you change
for Yasnaya Polyana.
It is also worth considering
combining a trip to Vladimir and
Suzdal, as there are frequent
buses that run daily from
Shchyolkovsky station between
the two and the journey takes
4 hours. Patriarshiy Dom Tours
offer overnight packages to
both towns and guided day
trips to Yasnaya Polyana.
228  MOSCOW STREET FINDER

MOSCOW STREET FINDER

The key map below shows the areas of maps, such as post offices, metro stations
Moscow covered by the Street Finder. The and churches. The Street Finder index lists
map references given throughout the guide street names in transliteration, followed by
for sights, restaurants, hotels, shops or Cyrillics (on maps, Cyrillics are only given for
entertainment venues refer to the maps in major roads). This guide uses the reinstated
this section. All the major sights have been old Russian street names, not the Soviet
marked so they are easy to locate. The key versions. Places of interest are listed by
below shows other features marked on the their English names.

LE
NI
NG
RA
DS

MIRA
KI A
Y AY
UL

PR DN
RU
YA

PROSPEKT OP
OVA

N A
AS IT S
KR UL
BEG

L
VA
KIY
NS
S NE
RE
UL P

TV
ER
SK
AY
A
UL
ITS

Red Square &

A

Tverskaya Kitay Gorod

BOL
N I K I T S K AY
A UL

AT
Kremlin
RB
AA
ITS
UL
Arbatskaya

TAG
Mo

ANS
KAYA
B

а
NA

кв

skv

UL I T
SA
оc
YA

Zamoskvoreche
a
KA

а
М

в
VS

KO c
к

о
ZH
a

Мо

RE sk
v

BE o ITS
A
UL
cк

M
va

YA
KA PR
ва
sk

O VS KI
Y
OG
Mo
S
OL

PIR
M

YA
SO
A
LSH

M
KO
BO

0 kilometres 1

0 miles 1

Key to Street Finder

Major sight Hospital
Place of interest Police station
Other building Orthodox church
Train station Non-Orthodox church
Metro station Synagogue
Main tram stop Mosque
Scale of Map Pages
Main trolleybus stop Pedestrian street
0 metres 300
Main bus stop Railway line
0 yards 300
River boat pier House number
(main street)
 MOSCOW STREET FINDER  229

Street Finder Index

1 Maya, Park im
1 МАЯ, ПАРК ИМ 4F5 Abbreviations & Useful Words
1-ya Borodinskaya ulitsa
1-Я БОРОДИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5B2
1-ya Brestskaya ulitsa ul. ulitsa street
1-Я БРЕСТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2 pl. ploshchad square
1-ya Dubrovskaya ulitsa pr. prospekt avenue
1-Я ДУБРОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F5
1-ya Frunzenskaya ulitsa per. pereulok small street/
1-Я ФРУНЗЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6D5 passage/lane
1-ya Miusskaya ulitsa
1-Я МИУССКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D1
most bridge
1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ulitsa podezd entrance
1-Я ТВЕРСКАЯ-ЯМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2 proezd small street/
1-ya Yamskovo Polya, ulitsa
1-Я ЯМСКОГО ПОЛЯ, УЛИЦА 1C1 passage/lane
1-yy Babegorodskiy pereulok sad garden
1-ЫЙ БАБЬЕГОРОДСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F3, 7A4 shosse road
1-yy Basmannyy pereulok
1-ЫЙ БАСМАННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4E3 stroenie building
1-yy Botkinskiy proezd tupik cul-de-sac
1-ЫЙ БОТКИНСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 1A1
1-yy Bryanskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ БРЯНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5B2 2-oy Krutitskiy pereulok
1-yy Goncharnyy pereulok 2-ОЙ КРУТИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E5
1-ЫЙ ГОНЧАРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D3 2-oy Lesnoy pereulok
1-yy Kadashevskiy pereulok 2-ОЙ ЛЕСНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D1
1-ЫЙ КАДАШЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3 2-oy Neopalimovskiy pereulok
1-yy Kazachiy pereulok 2-ОЙ НЕОПАЛИМОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3
1-ЫЙ КАЗАЧИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A4 2-oy Novokuznetskiy pereulok
1-yy Khvostov pereulok 2-ОЙ НОВОKУ3НЕЦКИЙ ПЕРУЛОК 7B4
1-ЫЙ ХВОСТОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A4 2-oy Obydenskiy pereulok
1-yy Kolobovskiy pereulok 2-ОЙ ОБЫДЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2
1-ЫЙ КОЛОБОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A3 2-oy Raushskiy pereulok
1-yy Koptelskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ РАУШСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C2
1-ЫЙ КОПТЕЛСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2
2-oy Shchemilovskiy pereulok
1-yy Kotelnicheskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ ЩЕМИЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F2
1-ЫЙ КОТЕЛЬНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D3
2-oy Shlyuzovoy pereulok
1-yy Kozhevnicheskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ ШЛЮЗОВОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D4
1-ЫЙ КОЖЕBНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D5
2-oy Smolenskiy pereulok
1-yy Krutitskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ СМОЛЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C2
1-ЫЙ КРУТИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E5
2-oy Spasonalivkovskiy pereulok
1-yy Lesnoy pereulok
2-ОЙ СПАСОНАЛИBКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A5
1-ЫЙ ЛЕСНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D1
2-oy Truzhenikov pereulok
1-yy Lyusinovskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ ТРУЖЕНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5B3
1-ЫЙ ЛЮСИНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A5
2-oy Vrazhskiy pereulok
1-yy Neopalimovskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ НЕОПАЛИМОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3 2-ОЙ ВРАЖСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3
1-yy Nikoloshchepovskiy pereulok 2-ya Borodinskaya ulitsa
1-ЫЙ НИКОЛОЩЕПОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1 2-Я БОРОДИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5B1
1-yy Novokuznetskiy pereulok 2-ya Brestskaya ulitsa
1-ЫЙ НОВОКУЗНЕЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 2-Я БРЕСТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2
1-yy Novyy pereulok 2-ya Dubrovskaya ulitsa
1-ЫЙ НОВЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F1 2-Я ДУБРОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F5
1-yy Obydenskiy pereulok 2-ya Miusskaya ulitsa
1-ЫЙ ОБЫДЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2 2-Я МИУССКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2
1-yy Samotechnyy pereulok 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ulitsa
1-ЫЙ САМОТЕЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F2 2-Я ТВЕРСКАЯ-ЯМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2
1-yy Shchemilovskiy pereulok 2-ya Zvenigorodskaya ulitsa
1-ЫЙ ЩЕМИЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F1 2-Я ЗВЕНИГОРОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1A4
1-yy Shibaevskiy pereulok 3-iy Golutvinskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ШИБАЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C5 3-ИЙ ГОЛУТВИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F3, 7A3
1-yy Shlyuzovoy pereulok 3-iy Kadashevskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ШЛЮЗОВОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D4 3-ИЙ КАДАШЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3
1-yy Smolenskiy pereulok 3-iy Kotelnicheskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ СМОЛЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1 3-ИЙ КОТЕЛЬНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D3
1-yy Spasonalivkovskiy pereulok 3-iy Krutitskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ СПАСОНАЛИВКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A4 3-ИЙ КРУТИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E5
1-yy Truzhenikov pereulok 3-iy Lesnoy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ТРУЖЕНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5B3 3-ИЙ ЛЕСНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D2
1-yy Tverskoy-Yamskoy pereulok 3-iy Monetchikovskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ТВЕРСКОЙ-ЯМСКОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3 3-ИЙ МОНЕТЧИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4
1-yy Vrazhskiy pereulok 3-iy Neopalimovskiy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ВРАЖСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5B3 3-ИЙ НЕОПАЛИМОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D3
1-yy Zachatevskiy pereulok 3-iy Samotechnyy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ЗАЧАТЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3 3-ИЙ САМОТЕЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F1
1-yy Zemelnyy pereulok 3-iy Shlyuzovoy pereulok
1-ЫЙ ЗЕМЕЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1A3 3-ИЙ ШЛЮЗОВОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D4
2-oy Botkinskiy proezd 3-iy Smolenskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ БОТКИНСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 1A1 3-ИЙ СМОЛЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1
2-oy Bryanskiy pereulok 3-iy Zachatevskiy pereulok
2-ОЙ БРЯНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5B2 3-ИЙ ЗАЧАТЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3
2-oy Kadashevskiy pereulok 3-ya Frunzenskaya ulitsa
2-ОЙ КАДАШЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3 3-Я ФРУНЗЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5C5
2-oy Kazachiy pereulok 3-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ulitsa
2-ОЙ КАЗАЧИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 3-Я ТВЕРСКАЯ-ЯМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2
2-oy Khvostov pereulok 3-ya Yamskovo Polya, ulitsa
2-ОЙ ХВОСТОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A4 3-Я ЯМСКОГО ПОЛЯ, УЛИЦА 1C1
2-oy Kozhevnicheskiy pereulok 4-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ulitsa
2-ОЙ КОЖЕВНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D5 4-Я ТВЕРСКАЯ-ЯМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2
230  MOSCOW STREET FINDER

4-yy Dobryninskiy pereulok Bersenev pereulok

4-ЫЙ ДОБРЫНИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A5 БЕРСЕНЕВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F3
4-yy Krutitskiy pereulok Bersenevskaya naberezhnaya
4-ЫЙ КРУТИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E5 БЕРСЕНЕВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6F2
4-yy Lesnoy pereulok Blagoveshchenskiy pereulok
4-ЫЙ ЛЕСНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D1 БЛАГОВЕЩЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3
4-yy Monetchikovskiy pereulok Bobrov pereulok
4-ЫЙ МОНЕТЧИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 БОБРОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B4
4-yy Rostovskiy pereulok Bogoslovskiy pereulok
4-ЫЙ РОСТОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C2 ВОГОСЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4
5-yy Kotelnicheskiy pereulok Bogoyavlenskiy pereulok
5-ЫЙ КОТЕЛЬНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D3 БОГОЯВЛЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A5, 7B1
5-yy Monetchikovskiy pereulok Bolotnaya naberezhnaya
5-ЫЙ МОНЕТЧИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B5 БОЛОТНАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7A3
6-oy Rostovskiy pereulok Bolotnaya ploshchad
6-ОЙ РОСТОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C2 БОЛОТНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7A2
7-oy Rostovskiy pereulok Bolotnaya ulitsa
7-ОЙ РОСТОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3 БОЛОТНАЯ УЛИДА 7B2
1905 goda, ulitsa Bolshaya Andronevskaya ulitsa
1905 ГОДА, УЛИЦА 1A3 БОЛЬШАЯ АНДРОНЬЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F2
Bolshaya Bronnaya ulitsa
БОЛЬШАЯ БРОННАЯ УЛИЦА 2E4
A Bolshaya Dekabrskaya ulitsa
БОЛЬШАЯ ДЕКАБРЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1A3
Abelmanovskaya ulitsa
Bolshaya Dmitrovka, ulitsa
АБЕЛЬМАНОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F4
БОЛЬШАЯ ДМИТРОВКА, УЛИЦА 2F4
Akademika Sakharova, prospekt
Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya ulitsa
АКАДЕМИКА САХАРОВА, ПРОСПЕКТ 3C3
БОЛЬШАЯ ДОРОГОМИЛОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5B2
Akademika Tupoleva, naberezhnaya
Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ulitsa
АКАДЕМИКА ТУПОЛЕВА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 4F5
БОЛЬШАЯ ГРУЗИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1C4
Akvarium, sad
Bolshaya Kommunisticheskaya ulitsa
АКВАРИУМ, САД 2E3
БОЛЬШАЯ КОММУНИСТИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИДА 8E3
Aleksandra Lukyanova, ulitsa
Bolshaya Lubyanka, ulitsa
АЛЕКСАНДРА ЛУКЬЯНОВА, УЛИЦА 4E3
БОЛЬШАЯ ЛУБЯНКА, УЛИЦА 3B4
Aleksandra Nevskovo, ulitsa
Bolshaya Molchanovka, ulitsa
АЛЕКСАНДРА НЕВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 2D2
БОЛЬШАЯ МОЛЧАНОВКА, УЛИЦА 6D1
Alexander Gardens 7A1
Bolshaya Nikitskaya ulitsa
Ananevskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШАЯ НИКИТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D5
АНАНЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C3
Bolshaya Ordynka, ulitsa
Andronevskaya naberezhnaya
БОЛЬШАЯ ОРДЫНКА, УЛИЦА 7B3
АНДРОНЬЕBСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8F2
Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya ulitsa
Anny Severyanovoy, ulitsa
БОЛЬШАЯ ПЕРЕЯСЛАВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3C1
АННЫ СЕВЕРЬЯНОВОЙ, УЛИЦА 1A5
Bolshaya Pionerskaya ulitsa
Aptekarskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШАЯ ПИОНЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7C5
АПТЕКАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F3
Bolshaya Pirogovskaya ulitsa
Arbat Square 6E1
БОЛЬШАЯ ПИРОГОВСКАЯ УЛИДА 5A5
Arbat, ulitsa
Bolshaya Polyanka, ulitsa
АРБАТ, УЛИЦА 6D1
БОЛЬШАЯ ПОЛЯНКА, УЛИЦА 7A3
Arbatskaya ploshchad
Bolshaya Sadovaya ulitsa
АРБАТСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6E1
БОЛЬШАЯ САДОВАЯ УЛИЦА 2D3
Aristarkhovskiy pereulok
Bolshaya Serpukhovskaya ulitsa
АРИСТАРХОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2
БОЛЬШАЯ СЕРПУХОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7B5
Arkhangelskiy pereulok
Bolshaya Spasskaya ulitsa
АРХАНГЕЛЬСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C4
БОЛЬШАЯ СПАССКАЯ УЛИЦА 3C2
Armyanskiy pereulok
Bolshaya Tatarskaya ulitsa
АРМЯНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B4
БОЛЬШАЯ ТАТАРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7C3
Arsenal 3A5, 7A1
Bolshaya Yakimanka, ulitsa
Ashcheulov pereulok
БОЛЬШАЯ ЯКИМАНКА, УЛИЦА 6F4, 7A4
АЩЕУЛОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК3B3
Bolshie Kamenshchiki, ulitsa
Astrakhanskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШИЕ КАМЕНЩИКИ, УЛИДА 8E3
АСТРАХАНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C1
Bolshoi Afanasevskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШОЙ АФАНАСЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E1
B Bolshoi Balkanskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШОЙ БАЛКАНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2
Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 7C5 Bolshoi Cherkasskiy pereulok
Bakhrushina, ulitsa БОЛЬШОЙ ЧЕРКАССКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B5, 7B1
БАХРУШИНА, УЛИЦА 7C4 Bolshoi Chudov pereulok
Balchug, ulitsa БОЛЬШОЙ ЧУДОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D4
БАЛЧУГ, УЛИЦА 7B2 Bolshoi Demidovskiy pereulok
Barashevskiy pereulok БОЛЬШОЙ ДЕМИДОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F4
БАРАШЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D5 Bolshoi Devyatinskiy pereulok
Barrikadnaya ulitsa БОЛЬШОЙ ДЕВЯТИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C5
БАРРИКАДНАЯ УЛИЦА 1C4 Bolshoi Drovyanoy pereulok
Barykovskiy pereulok БОЛЬШОЙ ДРОВЯНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2
БАРЫКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2 Bolshoi Fakelnyy pereulok
Basmannyy pereulok БОЛЬШОЙ ФАКЕЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8F3
БАСМАННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4E3 Bolshoi Gnezdnikovskiy pereulok
Baumana, sad im A БОЛЬШОЙ ГНЕЗДНИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F4
БАУМАНА, САД ИМ А 4E3 Bolshoi Golovin pereulok
Baumanskaya ulitsa БОЛЬШОЙ ГОЛОВИН ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
БАУМАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4F2 Bolshoi Kamennyy most
Begovaya alleya БОЛЬШОЙ КАМЕННЫЙ МОСТ 6F2, 7A2
БЕГОВАЯ АЛЛЕЯ 1B1 Bolshoi Karetnyy pereulok
Begovaya ulitsa БОЛЬШОЙ КАРЕТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A3
БЕГОВАЯ УЛИЦА 1A2 Bolshoi Kazennyy pereulok
Begovoy proezd БОЛЬШОЙ КАЗЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D5
БЕГОВОЙ ПРОЕЗД 1A2 Bolshoi Kharitonevsky p ereulok
Bely House-Museum 6D2 БОЛЬШОЙ XАРИТОНЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C4
Berezhkovskaya naberezhnaya Bolshoi Kiselnyy pereulok
БЕРЕЖКОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5A4 БОЛЬШОЙ КИСЕЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A4
Bernikov pereulok Bolshoi Kislovskiy pereulok
БЕРНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D2 БОЛЬШОЙ КИСЛОВКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5
Bernikovskaya naberezhnaya Bolshoi Kondratevskiy pereulok
БЕРНИКОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8D2 БОЛЬШОЙ КОНДРАТЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C2
 MOSCOW STREET FINDER  231

Bolshoi Kozikhinskiy pereulok Chaplygina, ulitsa

БОЛЬШОЙ КОЗИХИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4 ЧАПЛЫГИНА, УЛИЦА 4D4
Bolshoi Kozlovskiy pereulok Chayanova, ulitsa
БОЛЬШОЙ КОЗЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C3 ЧАЯНОВА, УЛИЦА 2D2
Bolshoi Krasnokholmskiy most Chekhov House-Museum 2D5
БОЛЬШОЙ КРАСНОХОЛМСКИЙ МОСТ 8D4 Chistoprudnyy bulvar
Bolshoi Levshinskiy pereulok ЧИCТОПРУДНЫЙ БУЛЬВАР 3C4
БОЛЬШОЙ ЛЕВШИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2 Chistyy pereulok
Bolshoi Moskvoretskiy most ЧИСТЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2
БОЛЬШОЙ МОСКВОРЕЦКИЙ МОСТ 7B2
Chugunnyy most
Bolshoi Nikolopeskovskiy pereulok
ЧУТУННЫЙ МОСТ 7B2
БОЛЬШОЙ НИКОЛОПЕСКОВСКИЙ
ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D1 Church of St Clement 7B3
Bolshoi Nikolovorobinskiy pereulok Church of St John the Warrior 6F4, 7A4
БОЛЬШОЙ НИКОЛОВОРОБИНСКИЙ Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhy 7B3
ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D1 Church of St Nicholas of the Weavers 6D4
Bolshoi Novopeskovskiy pereulok Church of the Consolation of All Sorrows 7B3
БОЛЬШОЙ НОВОПЕСКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1 Church of the Deposition of the Robe 7A1
Bolshoi Ordynskiy pereulok Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi 7B3
БОЛЬШОЙ ОРДЫНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki 7C1
Bolshoi Ovchinnikovskiy pereulok Confectionery Shop 7B3
БОЛЬШОЙ ОВЧИННИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3 Convent of SS Martha and Mary 7B4
Bolshoi Palashevskiy pereulok Convent of the Nativity of the Virgin 3A4
БОЛЬШОЙ ПАЛАШЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4
Bolshoi Patriarshiy pereulok
БОЛЬШОЙ ПАТРИАРШИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D4 D
Bolshoi Poluyaroslavskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШОЙ ПОЛУЯРОСЛАВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E1 Daev pereulok
Bolshoi Predtechenskiy pereulok ДАЕB ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
БОЛЬШОЙ ПРЕДТЕЧЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B4 Dashkov pereulok
Bolshoi Rogozhskiy pereulok ДАШКОB ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D3
БОЛЬШОЙ РОГОЖСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8F3 Degtyarnyy pereulok
Bolshoi Savvinskiy pereulok ДЕГТЯРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3
БОЛЬШОЙ САВВИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5B4 Delegatskaya ulitsa
Bolshoi Sergievskiy pereulok ДЕЛЕГАTСKАЯ УЛИЦА 2F2
БОЛЬШОЙ СЕРГИЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A3 Denezhnyy pereulok
Bolshoi Simonovskiy pereulok ДЕНЕЖНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2
БОЛЬШОЙ СИМОНОBСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8F5 Denisovskiy pereulok
Bolshoi Spasoglinishchevskiy pereulok ДЕНИСОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F4
БОЛЬШОЙ СПАСОГЛИНИЩЕВСКИЙ Department of Private Collections 6F2
ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B5, 7C I Derbenevskaya naberezhnaya
Bolshoi Strochenovskiy pereulok ДЕРБЕНЕВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8E5
БОЛЬШОЙ СТРОЧЕНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B5
Desyatiletiya Oktyabrya, ulitsa
Bolshoi Sukharevskiy pereulok
ДЕСЯTИЛЕTИЯ ОKTЯБРЯ, УЛИЦА 5B5
БОЛЬШОЙ СУХАРЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Bolshoi Tatarskiy pereulok Devichevo Polya, proezd
БОЛЬШОЙ ТАТАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C4 ДЕВИЧЬЕГО ПОЛЯ, ПРОЕЗД 5C3
Bolshoi Theatre 3A4 Dinamovskaya ulitsa
Bolshoi Tishinskiy pereulok ДИНАМОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8E5
БОЛЬШОЙ ТИШИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B3 Dmitrovskiy pereulok
Bolshoi Tolmachevskiy pereulok ДМИТРОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A4
БОЛЬШОЙ ТОЛМАЧЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A3 Dobroslobodskaya ulitsa
Bolshoi Trekhgornyy pereulok ДОБРОСЛОБОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4F3
БОЛЬШОЙ ТРЕХГОРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B5 Dobrovolcheskaya ulitsa
Bolshoi Trekhsvyatitelskiy pereulok ДОБРОВОЛЬЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F2
БОЛЬШОЙ ТРЕХСВЯТИТЕЛЬСКИЙ Dobryninskiy pereulok
ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5, 8D1 ДОБРЫНИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A5
Bolshoi Ustinskiy most Dokuchaev pereulok
БОЛЬШОЙ УСТЬИНСКИЙ МОСТ 7C2 ДОКУЧАЕВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2
Bolshoi Vlasevskiy pereulok Dolgorukovskaya ulitsa
БОЛЬШОЙ ВЛАСЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2 ДОЛГОРУКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2E2
Bolshoi Zlatoustinskiy pereulok
Donskaya ulitsa
БОЛЬШОЙ ЗЛАТОУСТИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B5
ДОНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6F5
Bolshoi Znamenskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШОЙ ЗНАМЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E1 Dostoevskovo, pereulok
Borisoglebskiy pereulok ДОСТОЕВСКОГО, ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F1
БОРИСОГЛЕБСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D5 Dostoevskovo, ulitsa
Borodinskiy most ДОСТОЕВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 2F1
БОРОДИНСКИЙ МОСТ 5B2 Dovatora, ulitsa
Borovitskaya ploshchad ДОВАТОРА, УЛИЦА 5B5
БОРОВИЦКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6F1 Druzhinnikovskaya ulitsa
Botanicheskiy pereulok ДРУЖИННИКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1C5
БОТАНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2 Dubininskaya ulitsa
Botanicheskiy sad MGU ДУБИНИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7C5
БОТАНИЧЕСКИЙ САД МГУ 3B2 Durasovskiy pereulok
Brodnikov pereulok ДУРАСОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D5, 8D1
БРОДНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A4 Durova, ulitsa
Bryanskaya ulitsa ДУРОВА, УЛИЦА 3A1
БРЯНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5A2
Bryusov pereulok
БРЮСОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5 E
Burdenko, ulitsa
БУРДЕНКО, УЛИЦА 5C3 Efremova, ulitsa
Butikovskiy pereulok ЕФРЕМОBА, УЛИЦА 5C5
БУТИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3 Elanskovo, ulitsa
Butyrskiy val, ulitsa ЕЛАНСКОГО, УЛИЦА 5C4
БУТЫРСКИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 2D1 Elektricheskiy pereulok
ЭЛЕКТРИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C3
Elizavetinskiy pereulok
C ЕЛИЗАВЕТИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F4
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 6F2 Ermolaevskiy pereulok
Cathedral of the Annunciation 7A2 ЕРМОЛАЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D4
Cathedral of the Archangel 7A2 Eropkinskiy pereulok
Cathedral of the Assumption 7A1 ЕРОПКИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D3
232  MOSCOW STREET FINDER

F Kaloshin pereulok
КАЛОШИН ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D1
Faceted Palace 7A2 Kaluzhskaya ploshchad
Fadeeva, ulitsa КАЛУЖСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6F4, 7A5
ФАДЕЕBА, УЛИЦА 2E2 Kamennoy Slobody, pereulok
Faleevskiy pereulok КАМЕННОЙ СЛОБОДЫ, ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D1
ФАЛЕЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A2 Kamergerskiy pereulok
Filippovskiy pereulok КАМЕРГЕРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5
ФИЛИППОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E1 Kapelskiy pereulok
Frunzenskaya naberezhnaya КАРЕЛЬСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B1
ФРУНЗЕНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6D5 Karetnyy ryad, ulitsa
Furmannyy pereulok КАРЕТНЫЙ РЯД, УЛИЦА 2F3
ФУРМАННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D4 Karmanitskiy pereulok
КАРМАНИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D1
Kazakova, ulitsa
G КАЗАКОВА, УЛИЦА 4E4
Gagarinskiy pereulok Kazan Cathedral 3A5, 7A1
ГАГАРИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2 Kazanskiy pereulok
Gasheka, ulitsa КАЗАНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A4
ГАШЕКА, УЛИЦА 2D3 Kazarmennyy pereulok
Gavrikova, ulitsa КАЗАРМЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D5, 8D1
ГАВРИКОВА УЛИЦА 4E1 Khilkov pereulok
Gazetnyy pereulok ХИЛКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3
ГАЗЕTНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5 Khlebnyy pereulok
Georgievskiy pereulok ХЛЕБНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D5
ГЕОРГИЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5 Khodynskaya ulitsa
Gilyarovskovo, ulitsa ХОДЫНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1A3
ГИЛЯРОВСКОВО, УЛИЦА 3B2 Khokhlovskiy pereulok
Glazovskiy pereulok ХОХЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5
ГЛАЗОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2 Kholzunova, pereulok
Glinishchevskiy pereulok ХОЛЬЗУНОВА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C4
ГЛИНИЩЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F4 Khomutovskiy tupik
Glubokiy pereulok ХОМУТОВСКИЙ ТУПИК 4D3
ГЛУБОКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B5 Khrushchevskiy pereulok
Glukharev pereulok ХРУЩЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2
ГЛУХАРЕВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2 Khrustalnyy pereulok
Gogolevskiy bulvar ХРУСТАЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B1
ГОГОЛЕВСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 6E2 Kievskaya ulitsa
Golikovskiy pereulok КИЕBСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5A2
ГОЛИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3 Kievskovo Vokzala, ploshchad
Goncharnaya ulitsa КИЕВСКОГО ВОКЗАЛА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 5B2
ГОНЧАРНАЯ УЛИЦА 8D2 Kitaygorodskiy proezd
Goncharnyy proezd КИТАЙГОРОДСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 7C1
ГОНЧАРНЫЙ ПРОЕЗД 8D3 Klimashkina, ulitsa
Gorkovo, park im КЛИМАШКИНА, УЛИЦА 1B3
ПАРК КУЛЬТУРЫ И ОТДЫХА ИМЕНИ Klimentovskiy pereulok
М ГОРКГО 6E4 КЛИМЕHТОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3
Gorky House-Museum 2E5 Kolokolnikov pereulok
Gorky Park 6E4 КОЛОКОЛЬНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Gorlov tupik Kolpachnyy pereulok
ГОРЛОВ ТУПИК 2D1 КОЛПАЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5
Gorokhovskiy pereulok Kolymazhnaya, ulitsa
ГОРОХОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4E4 КОЛЫМАЖНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E1
Granatnyy pereulok Komissariatskiy most
ГРАНАТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D5 КОМИССАРИАТСКИЙ МОСТ 7C2
Great Kremlin Palace 7A2 Komissariatskiy pereulok
Grokholskiy pereulok КОМИССАРИАТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C3
ГРОХОЛЬСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B2 Kompozitorskaya ulitsa
Gruzinskiy pereulok КОМПОЗИТОРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6D1
ГРУЗИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C2 Komsomolskaya ploshchad
Gruzinskiy val, ulitsa КОМСОМОЛЬСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 4D2
ГРУЗИНСКИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 1C2 Komsomolskiy prospekt
GUM 3A5, 7B1 КОМСОМОЛЬСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5C5
Gusyatnikov pereulok Komsomolskoy Ploshchadi, proezd
ГУСЯТНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C4 КОМСОМОЛЬСКОЙ ПЛОЩАДИ, ПРОЕЗД 4D1
Gvozdeva, ulitsa Konyushkovskaya ulitsa
ГВОЗДЕBА, УЛИЦА 8E4 КОНЮШКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1C5
Kooperativnaya ulitsa
КООПЕРАТИBНАЯ УЛИЦА 5B5
H Korobeynikov pereulok
КОРОБЕЙНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3
Hotel Metropol 3A5
Koroviy val, ulitsa
Hotel National 2F5, 7A1
КОРОВИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 7A5
House of Friendship 6E1
Kosmodamianskaya naberezhnaya
House of Unions 3A5
КОСМОДАМИАНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7C2
Kostikova, ulitsa
I КОСTИКОВА, УЛИЦА 1A4
Kostomarovskaya naberezhnaya
Ilinka, ulitsa КОСТОМАРОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8F2
ИЛЬИНКА, УЛИЦА 3B5, 7B1 Kostomarovskiy pereulok
Ipatevskiy pereulok КОСTОМАРОBСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8F1
ИПАТЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B5, 7B1 Kostyanskiy pereulok
Ivan the Great Bell Tower 7A1 КОСТЯНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Ivanovskaya Hill 3C5 Kotelnicheskaya naberezhnaya
КОТЕЛЬНИЧЕСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8D3
K Kozhevnicheskaya ulitsa
КОЖЕВНИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8D5
Kadashevskaya naberezhnaya Kozhevnicheskiy proezd
КАДАШЕВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7A3 КОЖЕBНИЧЕСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 8D5
Kalanchevskaya ulitsa Kozitskiy pereulok
КАЛАНЧЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4D2 КОЗИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F4
Kalanchevskaya ploshchad Krasina, ulitsa
КАЛАНЧЕВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 4D2 КРАСИНА, УЛИЦА 2D3
Kalashnyy pereulok Krasnaya ploshchad
КАЛАШНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E5 КРАСНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3A5, 7B1
 MOSCOW STREET FINDER  233

Krasnaya Presnya, ulitsa Lukov pereulok

КРАСНАЯ ПРЕСНЯ, УЛИЦА 1B4 ЛУКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Krasnokholmskaya naberezhnaya Luzhkov most
КРАСНОХОЛМСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8D4 ЛУЖКОB МОСT 7A3
Krasnopresnenskaya naberezhnaya Lva Tolstovo, ulitsa
КРАСНОПРЕСНЕНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 1B5, 5A1 ЛЬBА TОЛСTОГО, УЛИЦА 6D4
Krasnopresnenskoy Zastavy, ploshchad Lyalin pereulok
КРАСНОПРЕСНЕНСКОЙ ЗАСТАЫ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 1A4 ЛЯЛИН ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D4
Krasnoproletarskaya ulitsa Lyusinovskaya ulitsa
КРАСНОПРОЛЕTАРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2F2 ЛЮСИНОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7B5
Krasnoprudnaya ulitsa
КРАСНОПРУДНАЯ УЛИЦА 4E2
Krasnoselskiy, tupik
M
КРАСНОСЕЛЬСКИЙ, ТУПИК 4E1 Makarenko, ulitsa
Kremlevskaya naberezhnaya МАКАРЕНКО, УЛИЦА 4D4
КРЕМЛЁВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7A2 Malaya Bronnaya ulitsa
Krestyanskiy tupik МАЛАЯ БРОННАЯ УЛИЦА 2D4
КРЕСТЬЯНСКИЙ ТУПИК 8E4 Malaya Dmitrovka, ulitsa
Krestyanskoy Zastavy, ploshchad МАЛАЯ ДМИТРОВКА, УЛИЦА 2E3
КРЕСТЬЯНСКОЙ ЗАСТАВЫ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 8F4 Malaya Dorogomilovskaya ulitsa
Krivoarbatskiy pereulok МАЛАЯ ДОРОГОМИЛОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5A2
КРИВОАРБАТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D1 Malaya Gruzinskaya ulitsa
Krivokolennyy pereulok МАЛАЯ ГРУЗИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1B4
КРИВОКОЛЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B4 Malaya Kommunisticheskaya ulitsa
Kropotkinskiy pereulok МАЛАЯ КОММУНИСТИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8E3
КРОПОТКИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D3 Malaya Lubyanka, ulitsa
Krutitskaya naberezhnaya МАЛАЯ ЛУБЯНКА, УЛИЦА 3B4
КРУТИЦКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8E5 Malaya Nikitskaya ulitsa
Krutitskaya ulitsa МАЛАЯ НИКИТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D5
КРУТИЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 8E5 Malaya Ordynka, ulitsa
Krutitskiy val, ulitsa МАЛАЯ ОРДЫНКА, УЛИЦА 7B4
КРУТИЦКИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 8F5 Malaya Pionerskaya ulitsa
Krutitskoe Mission 8E5 МАЛАЯ ПИОНЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7C5
Krymskaya naberezhnaya Malaya Pirogovskaya ulitsa
КРЫМСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6E4 МАЛАЯ ПИРОГОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5B5
Krymskiy most Malaya Polyanka, ulitsa
КРЫМСКИЙ МОСТ 6E4 МАЛАЯ ПОЛЯНКА, УЛИЦА 7A4
Krymskiy tupik Malaya Trubetskaya ulitsa
КРЫМСКИЙ ТУПИК 6F4 МАЛАЯ ТРУБЕЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 5B4
Krymskiy val, ulitsa Malaya Yakimanka, ulitsa
КРЫМСКИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 6F4 МАЛАЯ ЯКИМАНКА, УЛИЦА 7A3
Kseninskiy pereulok Malye Kamenshchiki, ulitsa
КСЕНЬИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D4 МАЛЫЕ КАМЕНЩИКИ, УЛИЦА 8E4
Kudrinskaya ploshchad Malyy Demidovskiy pereulok
КУДРИНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 1C5 МАЛЫЙ ДЕМИДОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4E4
Kursovoy pereulok Malyy Drovyanoy pereulok
КУРСОВОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F3 МАЛЫЙ ДРОВЯНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2
Kutuzovskiy prospekt Malyy Gnezdnikovskiy pereulok
КУТУЗОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5A2 МАЛЫЙ ГНЕЗДНИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F4
Kuznetskiy most, ulitsa Malyy Golovin pereulok
КУЗНЕЦКИЙ МОСТ, УЛИЦА 3A4 МАЛЫЙ ГОЛОВИН ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Malyy Ivanovskiy pereulok
L МАЛЫЙ ИВАНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C1
Malyy Kamennyy most
Lavrov pereulok МАЛЫЙ КАМЕННЫЙ МОСТ 7A3
ЛАBРОB ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E4 Malyy Karetnyy pereulok
Lavrskiy pereulok МАЛЫЙ КАРЕТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F3
ЛАВРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A2 Malyy Kazennyy pereulok
Lavrushinskiy pereulok МАЛЫЙ КАЗЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D4
ЛАВРУШИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A3 Malyy Kharitonevskiy pereulok
Lebyazhiy pereulok МАЛЫЙ ХАРИТОНЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C3
ЛЕБЯЖИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F2 Malyy Kislovskiy pereulok
Lenin Mausoleum 7A1 МАЛЫЙ КИСЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E5
Leningradskiy prospekt Malyy Kozikhinskiy pereulok
ЛЕНИНГРАДСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1B1 МАЛЫЙ КОЗИХИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4
Leninskiy prospect Malyy Krasnokholmskiy most
ЛЕНИНСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6F5 МАЛЫЙ КРАСНОХОЛМСКИЙ МОСТ 8D4
Lenivka, ulitsa Malyy Levshinskiy pereulok
ЛЕНИВКА, УЛИЦА 6F2 МАЛЫЙ ЛЕBШИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2
Leontevskiy pereulok Malyy Moskvoretskiy most
ЛЕОНТЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E5 МАЛЫЙ МОСКВОРЕЦКИЙ МОСТ 7B2
Lermontov House-Museum 2D5, 6D1 Malyy Novopeskovskiy pereulok
Lermontovskaya ploshchad МАЛЫЙ НОВОПЕСКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1
ЛЕРМОНТОВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 4D3 Malyy Poluyaroslavskiy pereulok
Lesnaya ulitsa МАЛЫЙ ПОЛУЯРОСЛАВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E1
ЛЕСНАЯ УЛИЦА 2D2 Malyy Rzhevskiy pereulok
Lesnoryadskaya ulitsa МАЛЫЙ РЖЕBСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D5
ЛЕСНОРЯДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4F1 Malyy Savvinskiy pereulok
Lesnoryadskiy pereulok МАЛЫЙ САВВИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5A4
ЛЕСНОРЯДСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F1 Malyy Sukharevskiy pereulok
Letnikovskaya ulitsa МАЛЫЙ СУХАРЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A3
ЛЕТНИКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8D5 Malyy Tatarskiy pereulok
Likhov pereulok МАЛЫЙ ТАТАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C4
ЛИХОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F3 Malyy Tishinskiy pereulok
Lopukhinskiy pereulok МАЛЫЙ ТИШИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C3
ЛОПУХИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2 Malyy Tolmachevskiy pereulok
Lubyanka Square 3B4 МАЛЫЙ ТОЛМАЧЕВСКИЙ
Lubyanskaya ploschad ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A3
ЛУБЯНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3B5 Malyy Trekhsvyatitelskiy pereulok
Lubyanskiy proezd MАЛЫЙ ТРЕХСВЯТИТЕЛЬСКИЙ
ЛУБЯНСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 3B5, 7C1 ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5, 8D1
Lubyanskiy prospekt Malyy Vlasevskiy pereulok
ЛУБЯНCКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 3B5 МАЛЫЙ ВЛАСЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2
234  MOSCOW STREET FINDER

Malyy Znamenskiy pereulok Nikoloyamskaya ulitsa

МАЛЫЙ ЗНАМЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F1 НИКОЛОЯМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8D2
Mamonovskiy pereulok Nikoloyamskiy pereulok
МАМОНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4 НИКОЛОЯМСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2
Mandelshtama, park im Nikolskaya ulitsa
МАНДЕЛЬШТАМА, ПАРК ИМ 5C5 НИКОЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3A5
Manège 6F1, 7A1 Nikolskiy pereulok
Manezhnaya ploshchad НИКОЛЬСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B5, 7B1
МАНЕЖНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7A1 Nikonovskiy pereulok
Manezhnaya ulitsa НИКОНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F2
МАНЕЖНАЯ УЛИДА 6F1, 7A2 Nizhniy Susalnyy pereulok
Mansurovskiy pereulok НИЖНИЙ СУСАЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4E4
МАНСУРОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D3 Nizhniy Taganskiy tupik
Mantulinskaya ulitsa НИЖНИЙ ТАГАНСКИЙ ТУПИК 8D3
МАНТУЛИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1A5 Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya ulitsa
Marksistskaya ulitsa НИЖНЯЯ КРАСНОСЕЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4F2
МАРКСИСТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8E3 Nizhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya ulitsa
Marksistskiy pereulok НИЖНЯЯ СЫРОМЯТНИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F1
МАРКСИСTСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8F4 Nizhnyaya Taganskaya ploshchad
Maronovskiy pereulok НИЖНЯЯ ТАГАНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 8D3
МАРОНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F4 Nizhnyaya ulitsa
Maroseyka, ulitsa НИЖНЯЯ УЛИЦА 1C2
МАРОСЕЙКА, УЛИЦА 3B5 Novaya Basmannaya ulitsa
Martynovskiy pereulok НОВАЯ БАСМАННАЯ УЛИЦА 4D3
МАРТЫНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2 Novaya ploshchad
Mashkova, ulitsa НОВАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3B5
МАШКОВА, УЛИЦА 4D4 Novinskiy bulvar
Mayakovsky Museum 3B5 НОВИНСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 2D5
Mayakovskovo, pereulok Novoarbatskiy most
МАЯКОВСКОГО, ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E3 НОВОАРБАТСКИЙ МОСТ 5B1
Melnikov House 6D1 Novodevichiy Convent 5A5
Melnitskiy pereulok Novodevichiy proezd
МЕЛЬНИЦКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E1 НОВОДЕВИЧИЙ ПРОЕЗД 5A4
Merzlyakovskiy pereulok Novodevichya naberezhnaya
МЕРЗЛЯКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E5 НОВОДЕВИЧЬЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5A5
Meshchanskaya ulitsa Novokhokhlovskaya ulitsa
МЕЩАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3B2 НОВОХОХЛОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2E1
Milyutinskiy pereulok Novokonyushennyy pereulok
МИЛЮТИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B4 НОВОКОНЮШЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3
Mira, prospekt Novokrymskiy prospekt
МИРА, ПРОСПЕКТ 3B2
НОВОКРЫМСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6E3
Miusskaya ploshchad
Novokuznetskaya ulitsa
МИУССКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2D2
НОВОКУЗНЕЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 7B3
Miusskiy pereulok
Novolesnaya ulitsa
МИУССКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D1
НОВОЛЕСНАЯ УЛИЦА 2D1
Mokhovaya ulitsa
Novolesnoy pereulok
МОХОВАЯ УЛИЦА 6F1
НОВОЛЕСНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D1
Molochnyy pereulok
Novopresnenskiy pereulok
МОЛОЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3
Monastery of the Epiphany 3A5, 7B1 НОВОПРЕСНЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C4
Monastery of the Saviour and Andronicus 8F2 Novoryazanskaya ulitsa
Morozov Mansion 2D4 НОВОРЯЗАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4E3
Moscow Arts Theatre 2F4 Novoslobodskaya ulitsa
Moscow Conservatory 2E5 НОВОСЛОБОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2E1
Moscow Old University 2F5, 7A1 Novospasskiy most
Moskvoretskaya naberezhnaya НОВОСПАССКИЙ МОСТ 8E5
МОСКВОРЕЦКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7B2 Novospasskiy pereulok
Moskvoretskaya ulitsa НОВОСПАССКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E4
МОСКВОРЕДКАЯ УЛИДА 7B1 Novospasskiy proezd
Mozhayskiy val, ulitsa НОВОСПАССКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 8E4
МОЖАЙСКИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 5A2 Novovagankovskiy pereulok
Museum of the Revolution 2E4 НОВОВАГАНЬКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B5
Myasnitskaya ulitsa Novyy Arbat, ulitsa
МЯСНИЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 3B4 НОВЫЙ АРБАТ, УЛИЦА 5C1
Mytnaya, ulitsa
МЫТНАЯ, УЛИЦА 7A5 O
Obolenskiy pereulok
N ОБОЛЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C4
Narodnaya ulitsa Obukha, pereulok
НАРОДНАЯ УЛИЦА 8D4 ОБУХА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E1
Nashchokinskiy pereulok Ogorodnoy Slobody pereulok
НАЩОКИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2 ОГОРОДНОЙ СЛОБОДЫ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C4
Nastasinskiy pereulok Okhotnyy ryad, ulitsa
НАСТАСЬИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3 ОХОТНЫЙ РЯД, УЛИЦА 3A5
Nastavnicheskiy pereulok Old English Court 7B1
НАСТАВНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8F1 Olimpiyskiy prospekt
Neglinnaya ulitsa ОЛИМПИЙСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 3A2
НЕГЛИННАЯ УЛИЦА 3A4 Olkhovskaya ulitsa
Nesvizhskiy pereulok ОЛХОBСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4E2
НЕСВИЖСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C4 Olsufevskiy pereulok
Nevolnyy pereulok ОЛСУФЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C4
НЕВОЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C2 Orlikov pereulok
New Tretyakov Gallery 6F3 ОРЛИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D3
Nikitskie vorota, ploshchad Orlovo Davydovskiy pereulok
НИКИТСКИЕ ВОРОТА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 2E5 ОРЛОВО ДАВЫДОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B1
Nikitskiy bulvar Oruzheynyy pereulok
НИКИТСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 2E5 ОРУЖЕЙНЫИ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3
Nikitskiy pereulok Ostozhenka, ulitsa
НИКИТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5 ОСТОЖЕНКА, УЛИЦА 6E3
Nikolaeva, ulitsa Ovchinnikovskaya naberezhnaya
НИКОЛАЕВА, УЛИЦА 1B5 ОВЧИННИКОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7B2
Nikoloyamskaya naberezhnaya Ozerkovskaya naberezhnaya
НИКОЛОЯМСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8E2 ОЗЕРКОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7C3
 MOSCOW STREET FINDER  235

Ozerkovskiy pereulok Prosvirin pereulok

ОЗЕРКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C3 ПРОСBИРИН ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Ozerkovskiy tupik Protochnyy pereulok
ОЗЕРКОВСКИЙ ТУПИК 7C3 ПРОТОЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1
Protopopovskiy pereulok
ПРОТОПОПОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B1
P Pryamoy pereulok
ПРЯМОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1
Palace of Congresses 7A1
Pugovishnikov pereulok
Palace of the Romanov Boyars 7B1
ПУГОВИШНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D4
Palikha, ulitsa
Pushechnaya ulitsa
ПАЛИХА, УЛИЦА 2E1
ПУШЕЧНАЯ УЛИЦА 3A4
Panfilovskiy pereulok
Pushkarev pereulok
ПАНФИЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C1
ПУШКАРЕВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Pankratevskiy pereulok Pushkin House-Museum 6D2
ПАНКРАТЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3 Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts 6F2
Panteleevskaya ulitsa Pushkin Square 2F4
ПАНТЕЛЕЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3C1 Pushkinskaya naberezhnaya
Pashkov House 6F1 ПУШКИНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6E5
Patriarch’s Palace 7A1 Pushkinskaya ploshchad
Patriarch’s Pond 2D4 ПУШКИНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2F4
Patriarshiy prudy Pyatnitskaya ulitsa
ПАTРИАРШИЕ ПРУДЫ 2D4 ПЯТНИЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 7B2
Paveletskaya ploshchad Pyzhevskiy pereulok
ПАВЕЛЕЦКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7C5 ПЫЖЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3
Pechatnikov pereulok
ПЕЧАТНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A3
Perlov Tea House 3B4 R
Pestovskiy pereulok
Radio, ulitsa
ПЕСТОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2
РАДИО, УЛИЦА 4F4
Petropavlovskiy pereulok
Raevskovo, ulitsa
ПЕТРОПАВЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D1
РАЕВСКОГО УЛИЦА 5A2
Petroverigskiy pereulok
Rastorguevskiy pereulok
ПЕТРОВЕРИГСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5
РАСТОРГУЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B4
Petrovka, ulitsa Raushskaya naberezhnaya
ПЕTРОBКА, УЛИЦА 3A4 РАУШСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7B2
Petrovskie linii ulitsa Red Square 3A5, 7B1
ПЕТРОВСКИЕ ЛИНИИ УЛИЦА 3A4 Resurrection Gate 3A5, 7A1
Petrovskiy bulvar Revolyutsii, ploshchad
ПЕТРОВСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 3A3 РЕВОЛЮЦИИ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 3A5
Petrovskiy pereulok Rochdelskaya ulitsa
ПЕТРОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F4 РОЧДЕЛЬСКАЯ УЛИДА 1B5
Platovskaya ulitsa Romanov pereulok
ПЛАТОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5A2 РОМАНОB ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F5
Pleteshkovskiy pereulok Rossolimo, ulitsa
ПЛЕТЕШКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F3 РОССОЛИМО, УЛИЦА 5C4
Plotnikov pereulok Rostovskaya naberezhnaya
ПЛОТНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2 РОСТОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5B3
Plyushchikha, ulitsa Rozhdestvenka, ulitsa
ПЛЮЩИХА, УЛИЦА 5C3 РОЖДЕСТВЕНКА, УЛИЦА 3A4
Podgorskaya naberezhnaya Rozhdestvenskiy bulvar
ПОДГОРСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8D2 РОЖДЕСТВЕНСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 3A3
Podkolokolnyy pereulok Runovskiy pereulok
ПОДКОЛОКОЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D 1 РУНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C3
Podkopaevskiy pereulok Rusakovskaya ulitsa
ПОДКОПАЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5, 8D1 РУСАКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4F1
Podsosenskiy pereulok Ruzheynyy pereulok
ПОДСОСЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D5 РУЖЕЙНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C2
Pogodinskaya ulitsa Ryazanskiy proezd
ПОГОДИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5B4 РЯЗАНСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 4D2
Pogorelskiy pereulok Rybnikov pereulok
ПОГОРЕЛЬСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 РЫБНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3
Pokrovka, ulitsa Rybnyy pereulok
ПОКРОВКА, УЛИЦА 3C5 РЫБНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B5, 7B1
Pokrovskiy bulvar
ПОКРОВСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 3C5
Poluyaroslavskaya naberezhnaya S
ПОЛУЯОСЛАВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8E2 Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya ulitsa
Polytechnical Museum 3B5 САДОВАЯ-ЧЕРНОГРЯЗСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4D3
Pomerantsev pereulok Sadovaya-Karetnaya ulitsa
ПОМЕРАНЦЕB ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D3 САДОВАЯ-КАРЕТНАЯ УЛИДА 2F2
Posledniy pereulok Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ulitsa
ПОСЛЕДНИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3 САДОВАЯ-КУДРИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D4
Potapovskiy pereulok Sadovaya-Samotechnaya, ulitsa
ПОТАПОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C4 САДОВАЯ-САМОТЕЧНАЯ, УЛИЦА 3A2
Povarskaya ulitsa Sadovaya-Spasskaya ulitsa
ПОВАРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D5 САДОВАЯ-СПАССКАЯ УЛИЦА 3C3
Pozharskiy pereulok Sadovaya-Sukharevskaya ulitsa
ПОЖАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3 САДОВАЯ-СУХАРЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3A2
Pravdy, ulitsa Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ulitsa
ПРАВДЫ, УЛИЦА 1C1 САДОВАЯ-ТРИУМФАЛЬНАЯ УЛИЦА 2E3
Prechistenka, ulitsa Sadovnicheskaya naberezhnaya
ПРЕЧИСТЕНКА, УЛИЦА 6D3 САДОВНИЧЕСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7B2
Prechistenskaya naberezhnaya Sadovnicheskaya ulitsa
ПРЕЧИСТЕНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6E3 САДОВНИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИДА 7B2
Prechistenskie vorota, ploshchad Sadovnicheskiy proezd
ПРЕЧИСТЕНСКИЕ ВОРОТА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 6E2 САДОВНИЧЕСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 7C3
Prechistenskiy pereulok St Basil’s Cathedral 7B1
ПРЕЧИСТЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2 Samarskaya ulitsa
Presidium 7A1 САМАРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3A1
Presnenskiy val, ulitsa Samarskiy pereulok
ПРЕСНЕНСКИЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 1B3 САМАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A1
Priyutskiy pereulok Samokatnaya ulitsa
ПРИЮТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D1 САМОКАТНАЯ УЛИЦА 4F5
236  MOSCOW STREET FINDER

Samotechnaya ploshchad Sredniy Ovchinnikovskiy pereulok

САМОТЕЧНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3A2 СРЕДНИЙ ОВЧИННИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B2
Samotechnaya ulitsa Sredniy Tishinskiy pereulok
САМОТЕЧНАЯ УЛИЦА3A1 СРЕДНИЙ ТИШИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C3
Sandunovskiy Baths 3A4 Sredniy Trekhgornyy pereulok
Sandunovskiy pereulok СРЕДНИЙ ТРЕХГОРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B5
САНДУНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A4 Sretenka, ulitsa
Saviour’s Tower 7B1 СРЕТЕНКА, УЛИЦА 3B3
Savvinskaya naberezhnaya Sretenskiy bulvar
САВВИНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5A4 СРЕТЕНСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 3B3
Sechenovskiy pereulok Sretenskiy tupik
СЕЧЕНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3 СРЕТЕНСКИЙ ТУПИК 3B3
Seleznevskaya ulitsa Stanislavskiy House-Museum 2E5
СЕЛЕЗНЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2F1 Staraya Basmannaya ulitsa
Seliverstov pereulok СТАРАЯ БАСМАННАЯ УЛИЦА 4E4
СЕЛИВЕРСТОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B3 Staraya ploshchad
Senate 7A1 СТАРАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3B5, 7B1
Serafimovicha, ulitsa Starokonyushennyy pereulok
СЕРАФИМОВИЧА, УЛИДА 6F2, 7A2 СТАРОКОНЮШЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E1
Serebryanicheskaya naberezhnaya Staromonetnyy pereulok
СЕРЕБРЯНИЧЕСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8D2 СТАРОМОНЕТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7A3
Serebryanicheskiy pereulok Staropimenovskiy pereulok
СЕРЕБРЯНИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D2 СТАРОПИМЕНОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3
Sergeya Makeeva, ulitsa Starosadskiy pereulok
СЕРГЕЯ МАКЕЕВА, УЛИЦА 1A3 СТАРОСАДСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5, 7C1
Serpov pereulok Staryy Tolmachevskiy pereulok
СЕРПОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3 СТАРЫЙ ТОЛМАЧЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B3
Serpukhovskaya ploshchad State Armoury 6F1, 7A2
СЕРПУХОВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7B5 Stoleshnikov pereulok
Shabolovka, ulitsa СТОЛЕШНИКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F4
ШАБОЛОВКА, УЛИЦА 6F5 Stolyarnyy pereulok
Shalyapin House-Museum 1C5 СТОЛЯРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1B4
Shchepkina, ulitsa Strastnoy bulvar
ЩЕПКИНА, УЛИДА 3B2 СТРАСТНОЙ БУЛЬВАР 2F3
Shchetininskiy pereulok Stremyannyy pereulok
ЩЕТИНИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 СТРЕМЯННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B5
Shchusev Museum of Architecture 6F1 Sukharevskaya ploshchad
Shelaputinskiy pereulok СУХАРЕВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3B2
ШЕЛАПУТИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2 Sushchevskaya ulitsa
Shlyuzovaya naberezhnaya СУЩЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2E1
ШЛЮЗОВАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 8D4 Sverchkov pereulok
Shlyuzovoy most СВЕРЧКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C4
ШЛЮЗОВОЙ МОСТ 8D5 Svobodnoy Rossii, ploshchad
Shmitovskiy proezd СВОБОДНОЙ РОССИИ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 1B5
ШМИТОВСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 1A5 Syromyatnicheskaya naberezhnaya
Shubinskiy pereulok СЫРОМЯТНИЧЕСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 4F5, 8F1
ШУБИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C2 Syromyatnicheskiy proezd
Shvedskiy tupik СЫРОМЯТНИЧЕСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 4F5, 8F1
ШВЕДСКИЙ ТУПИК 2E4 Sytinskiy pereulok
Sivtsev Vrazhek, pereulok СЫТИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4
СИВЦЕВ ВРАЖЕК, ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D2
Sivyakov pereulok
СИВЯКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E2 T
Skakovaya ulitsa
СКАКОВАЯ УЛИЦА 1B1 Taganskaya ulitsa
Skatertnyy pereulok ТАГАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8E3
СКАTЕРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D5 Tarasa Shevchenko, naberezhnaya
Skornyazhnyy pereulok ТАРАСА ШЕВЧЕНКО, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5A1
СКОРНЯЖНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2 Tatarskaya ulitsa
Skryabin House-Museum 6D1 ТАТАРСКАЯ УЛИДА 7C4
Skver Devichevo Polya Teatralnaya ploshchad
СКВЕР ДЕВИЧЬЕГО ПОЛЯ 5C3 ТЕАТРАЛЬНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3A5
Slavyanskaya ploshchad Teatralnyy proezd
СЛАВЯНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7C1 ТЕАТРАЛЬНЫЙ ПРОЕЗД 3A5
Smolenskaya naberezhnaya Terem Palace 7A2
СМОЛЕНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5C1 Teterinskiy pereulok
Smolenskaya ploshchad ТЕТЕРИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D2
СМОЛЕНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 5C1 Theatre Square 3A5
Smolenskaya ulitsa Timura Frunze, ulitsa
СМОЛЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА` 5C2 ТИМУРА ФРУНЗЕ, УЛИЦА 6D3
Smolenskaya-Sennaya ploshchad Tokmakov pereulok
СМОЛЕНСКАЯ-СЕННАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 5C2 ТОКМАКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4F3
Smolenskiy bulvar Tolstoy House-Museum 6D4
СМОЛЕНСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 6D2 Tovarishcheskiy pereulok
Sofiyskaya naberezhnaya ТОВАРИЩЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E3
СОФИЙСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7A2 Trekhgornyy val, ulitsa
Solyanka, ulitsa ТРЕХГОРНЫЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 1A5
СОЛЯНКА, УЛИЦА 7C1 Trekhprudnyy pereulok
Sosinskaya ulitsa ТРЕХПРУДНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E4
СОСИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8F5 Tretyakov Gallery 7A3
Sovetskoy Armii, ulitsa Trinity Tower 6F1, 7A1
СОВЕТСКОЙ АРМИИ, УЛИЦА 3A1 Triumfalnaya ploshchad
Soymonovskiy prospekt ТРИУМФАЛЬНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2E3
СОЙМОНОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6F2 Troitskaya ulitsa
Spartakovskaya ulitsa ТРОИЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 3A2
СПАРТАКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4F3 Tropinin Museum 7B4
Spasopeskovskiy pereulok Trubnaya ulitsa
СПАСОПЕСКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D1 ТРУБНАЯ УЛИЦА 3A3
Spiridonevskiy pereulok Trubnikovskiy pereulok
СПИРИДОНЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D4 ТРУБНИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D5
Spiridonovka, ulitsa TSDRA, sad
СПИРИДОНОВКА, УЛИЦА 2D4 ЦДРА, САД 3A1
Sredniy Karetnyy pereulok Tsvetnoy bulvar
СРЕДНИЙ КАРЕТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F3 ЦВЕТНОЙ БУЛЬВАР 3A3
 MOSCOW STREET FINDER  237

Turchaninov pereulok
ТУРЧАНИНОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E3
W
Tverskaya ploshchad White House 1C5
ТВЕРСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2F4
Tverskaya ulitsa
ТВЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2E3
Y
Tverskoy Zastavy, ploshchad Yablonnyy pereulok
ТВЕРСКОЙ ЗАСТАВЫ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 2D2 ЯБЛОННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C1
Tverskoy bulvar Yakimanskaya naberezhnaya
ТВЕРСКОЙ БУЛЬВАР 2E4 ЯКИМАНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6F3, 7A3
Yakimanskiy pereulok
ЯКИМАНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F4
U Yakovo-Apostolskiy pereulok
ЯКОВО-АПОСТОЛСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4D5
Uchebnyy pereulok Yauzskaya ulitsa
УЧЕБНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5A5 ЯУЗСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8D2
Ukrainskiy bulvar Yauzskie vorota, ploshchad
УКРАИНСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 5B1 ЯУЗСКИЕ ВОРОТА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 8D2
Ulanskiy pereulok Yauzskiy bulvar
УЛАНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C3 ЯУЗСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 8D1
Upper Monastery of St Peter 2F3, 3A3 Yazykovskiy pereulok
Usacheva, ulitsa ЯЗЫКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6D4
УСАЧЕВА, УЛИЦА 5B5 Yuliusa Fuchika, ulitsa
Uspenskiy pereulok ЮЛИУСА ФУЧИКА, УЛИЦА 2D3
УСПЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2F3
Ustinskaya naberezhnaya
УСТЬИНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 7C2
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Zabelina ulitsa
ЗАБЕЛИНА УЛИЦА 3C5, 7C1
V Zamorenova, ulitsa
ЗАМОРЕНОВА, УЛИЦА 1B4
Vagankovskiy most Zatsepa, ulitsa
ВАГАНЬКОВСКИЙ МОСТ 1A2 ЗАЦЕПА, УЛИЦА 7B5
Valovaya, ulitsa Zatsepskiy val, ulitsa
ВАЛОВАЯ, УЛИЦА 7B5 ЗАЦЕПСКИЙ, УЛИЦА 7C5
Varsonofevskiy pereulok Zemledelcheskiy pereulok
ВАРСОНОФЬЕВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A4 ЗЕМЛЕДЕЛЬЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5C3
Varvarka, ulitsa Zemlyanoy val, ulitsa
ВАРВАРКА, УЛИЦА 7B1 ЗЕМЛЯНОЙ ВАЛ, УЛИЦА 4D4, 8E2
Varvarskie vorota, ploshchad Zemlyanskiy pereulok
ВАРВАРСКИЕ ВОРОТА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 7C1 ЗЕМЛЯНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8D2
Vasilevskaya ulitsa Zhitnaya, ulitsa
ЖИТНАЯ, УЛИЦА 7A5
ВАСИЛЬЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2D3
Zhivarev pereulok
Vasnetsov House-Museum 3B2 ЖИВАРЕВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C2
Vasnetsova, pereulok Zhukovskovo, ulitsa
ВАСНЕЦОВА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 3B2 ЖУКОВСКОВО, УЛИЦА 3C4
Verkhniy Novospasskiy proezd Znamenka, ulitsa
ВЕРХНИЙ НОВОСПАССКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 8E4 ЗНАМЕНКА, УЛИЦА 6F1
Verkhnyaya Krasnoselskaya ulitsa Zolotorozhskaya naberezhnaya
ВЕРХНЯЯ КРАСНОСЕЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4E1 ЗОЛОТОРОЖСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 4F5
Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya ulitsa Zoologicheskaya ulitsa
ВЕРХНЯЯ РАДИЩЕВСКАЯ УЛИДА 8D3 ЗООЛОГИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1C4
Verkhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya ulitsa Zoologicheskiy pereulok
ВЕРХНЯЯ СЫРОМЯТНИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4E5, 8E1 ЗООЛОГИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C4
Verkhnyaya Taganskaya ploshchad Zoopark
ЗООПАРК 1C4
ВЕРХНЯЯ ТАГАНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 8E3
Zubovskaya ploshchad
Verkhnyaya ulitsa ЗУБОBСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6D3
ВЕРХНЯЯ УЛИЦА 1C2 Zubovskiy bulvar
Vetoshnyy pereulok ЗУБОВСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 6D3
ВЕТОШНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A5, 7B1 Zubovskiy prospekt
Vishnyakovskiy pereulok ЗУБОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6D3
ВИШНЯКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7B4 Zvenigorodskoe shosse
Volgogradskiy prospekt ЗВЕНИГОРОДСКОЕ ШОССЕ 1A4
ВОЛГОГРАДСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 8F4 Zvonarskiy pereulok
Volkhonka, ulitsa ЗВОНАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3A4
ВОЛХОНКА, УЛИЦА 6F2
Volkov Pereulok
ВОЛКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1C4
Vorontsovo Pole, ulitsa
ВОРОНЦОВО ПОЛЕ, УЛИЦА 4D5, 8D1
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ВОРОНЦОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8E3
Vorontsovskiy pereulok
НОРОНЦОНСАИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8E4
Vorotnikovskiy pereulok
ВОРОТНИКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E3
Vospitatelnyy pereulok
ВОСПИТАТЕЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7C1
Vozdvizhenka, ulitsa
ВОЗДНИЖЕНКА, УЛИЦА 6E1
Voznesenskiy pereulok
ВОЗНЕСЕНСКИЯ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2E5
Vsekhsvyatskiy pereulok
ВСЕХСВЯТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6F2
Vsevolzhskiy pereulok
ВСЕВОЛЖСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6E2
Vspolnyy pereulok
ВСПОЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2D4
Vysokoyauzskiy most
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246  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to
main entries
A shops 194, 195
Above the Eternal Peace (Levitan) 123
Abramov, Semen 65
Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 51,
146, 158, 162
travel to 227
Adam, Adolphe 200
Addresses 214
Admission charges 207
Adoration of the Shepherds (Reni) 83
Aeroexpress 216, 217, 219
Aeroflot 216, 219
Afisha Picnic Festival 35
Ahasuerus, Haman and Esther
(Rembrandt) 81, 83
Air travel 216–17, 219
Airports 216, 219
Akademiya 190, 191
Aksakov, Sergey 162
Albion Pub 190, 191
Alcohol
What to Drink in Moscow 184–5
Aleksandrovskiy Convent (Suzdal)
168
Aleksey, Metropolitan 142
Aleksey II, Patriarch 107
Alexander I, Tsar 25
Alexander Gardens 69
Congress of Vienna 26
Kolomenskoe 140
Napoleonic Wars 26
Alexander II, Tsar 25
assassination of 28
House of Unions 90
statue of 150
Alexander III, Tsar 28
Alexander Gardens 11, 69, 149, 150
Alexandra, Tsarina 28
Alexis, Tsar 21, 59
Diamond Throne 67
Izmaylovo Park 143
Kolomenskoe 49, 140, 141
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
165, 167
Alexis, Tsarevich 28, 58, 59
Alfa-Bank 212
All-Russian Exhibition Centre 13,
147
Alternative Festival 34
Ambulances 210, 211
American Bar and Grill 190, 191
American Embassy 209
American Express 212
American Medical Center 211
Amvrosiy, Archbishop 138
Anastasia, Grand Duchess 28
Anastasia, Tsarina 20, 21
Andreev, Nikolay 90
Andrews Travel House 209, 216, 219
Andrey Rublev Museum of Old
Russian Art 142
Andropov, Yuriy 32, 151
grave of 109
Angel Road Rescue Service 226
Anna, Tsarina 24, 59
Annunciation (Botticelli) 80, 82
Antiques
exporting 193
Apartments, staying in 175
Apollo and the Muses (Titov) 93
Apollo in the Chariot of the Sun
(Klodt) 92
The Appearance of Christ to the
People (Ivanov) 120, 122
April Fools’ Day 34
Apted, Michael 131
Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow 209
Arbat Square 84
Arbatskaya 71–85
area map 71
hotels 176–9
Old Arbat 72–3
Pushkin State Museum of Fine
Arts 80–83
restaurants 186
Arbatskaya Lavitsa 194, 195
Arbatskaya metro station 43
Architecture 44–7
after the Revolution 47
Baroque architecture 46
Early-Russian architecture 46
Historicism and Style Moderne 47
Neo-Classical architecture 27,
46–7
new patriotism 46
Shchusev Museum of Architecture
51, 152
Suzdal Museum of Wooden
Architecture 168
Argunov, Fyodor 144, 145
Argunov, Pavel 146
Arkhangelskoe 156, 160
travel to 227
Arlecchino Children’s Club 199
Armoury see State Armoury
Arsenal 69
Arseneva, Yelizaveta 84
Art
The Art of Icon Painting in Russia
63
see also Museums and galleries
Art cafés 202, 203
Art Club Nostalgie 190, 191
Art Garbage 202, 203
Art Nouveau 47
Arts and crafts shops 194, 195
Arts Cinema 84, 201
Association of Travelling Art
Exhibitions 122
ATMs 212
Atrium 194, 195
Aurora (battleship) 31
Austerlitz, Battle of (1805) 25, 26
Australian Embassy 209
Austrian Airlines 216, 219
Autumn in Moscow 36
Avis 226
B Bolshoi Theatre 25, 92–3, 151, 200,
B2 202, 203
Bacchanalia (Rubens) 81
Baggage allowances 217
Bagration, Prince Pyotr 160
Bakarev, Aleksandr 69
Bakhrushin, Aleksey 117, 127
Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 51,
127
Ballet 200, 201
Ballets Russes 127
Bolshoi Ballet in the Soviet Era 93
Bank Moskvy 212
Bank notes 213
Banking 212–13
Bar Strelka 202
Baranovskiy, Pyotr 107
Bargaining etiquette 193
Barkhin, Grigoriy 47
Baroque architecture 46
Bars 190, 191
Basil III, Grand Prince
Convent of the Intercession
(Suzdal) 168
Kolomenskoe 140
Novodevichiy Convent 132
Basil the Blessed, St 110
Baths
Sandunovskiy Baths 115
Batu Khan 19
Bazaars 193, 195
Bazhenov, Vasiliy
Church of the Consolation of All
Sorrows 118, 124
Dolgov House 119
Pashkov House 46, 84
Tsaritsyno 139
BB King 202, 203
Beeline 214
Beer 185
Bell, Tsar 59
Belorusskaya metro station 43
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 40
Belorusskiy station 218, 219
Bely, Andrei
Bely House-Museum 50, 72, 75
Line of Life 75
Bely House-Museum 50, 75
Street-by-Street map 72
Benoit, Nikolay 144
Berlin Wall 32
Béthencourt, General Augustin de
96
Biblio Globus 194, 195
Bicycles 220–21
Blank, Karl 125, 144
Blinis 182
“Bloody Sunday” (1905) 28
Blues music 202, 203
BMI 216, 219
Boats
river cruises 11, 221
Bogolyubskiy, Prince Andrey 163,
168
Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa 95
Bolsheviks
Russian Revolution 28–9, 30–31
The Bolsheviks (Kustodiev) 28
201
Bolshoi Ballet in the Soviet Era 93
Street-by-Street map 89
 GENERAL INDEX  247

Book shops 194, 195 Canaletto (cont.) Central Station 202, 203
Border Troopers’ Day 34 Bucentaur’s Return to the Pier by the Central Telegraph Office 91, 214,
Borisov, Ivan 65 Palazzo Ducale 81 215
Borodino 51, 160 Capital Shipping Company 221 Centre Internet Club 215
travel to 227 Caravaggio 83 Ceramics
Borodino, Battle of (1812) 26, 131, Cars Orangery (Kuskovo) 145
157, 160 driving in Moscow 226 Cézanne, Paul
Borodino Panorama Museum 51, 131 driving outside Moscow 226 Mont Ste-Victoire 77
Borovikovskiy, Vladimir 122 hiring 226 Chain hotels 179
Borovitskaya Tower 150 rescue services 226 Chambers of the Romanov Boyars
Borscht 182 winter driving 226 46, 51, 104–5
Botanical Gardens 147 Cash dispensers 212 Moscow’s Best: Museums 49
Botkin Hospital 211 Cathedrals Street-by-Street map 103
Botticelli, Sandro 50 Cathedral of the Annunciation 57, Chancellor, Richard 23, 104
Annunciation 80, 82 62 Che 202, 203
Boucher, François Cathedral of the Archangel 57, 62 Chechen separatists 33
Hercules and Omphale 83 Cathedral of the Assumption 10, Cheka 28, 31, 114, 151
Boutique hotels 176–7 12, 23, 44, 46, 57, 60–61, 169 Chekhov, Anton
Bove, Osip Cathedral of the Assumption Chekhov House-Museum 50, 98
Alexander Gardens 69 (Krutitskoe Mission) 142 grave of 133
Bolshoi Theatre 92 Cathedral of the Assumption Moscow Arts Theatre 88, 94, 200
Cathedral of the Trinity 139 (Trinity Monastery of St Sergius) Slavyanskiy Bazaar restaurant 107
Church of the Consolation of All 165, 166 Stanislavskiy and Chekhov 95
Sorrows 118, 124 Cathedral of the Assumption Chekhov, Mikhail 98
Manège 96 (Vladimir) 159, 169 Chekhov House-Museum 50, 98
Russian Academic Youth Theatre 90 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 12, Chekhova, Mariya 98
Theatre Square 47, 90 29, 33, 46, 47, 76, 150 Chekhovskaya metro station 43
Triumphal Arch 131 Cathedral of the Epiphany 102, 106 Cherkasskaya, Varvara 144
Boyars 22 Cathedral of the Intercession Cherkasskiy family 147
Brandy 185 (Izmaylovo Park) 143 Chernenko, Konstantin 32
Breakdown services 226 Cathedral of the Nativity (Suzdal) Chernyy, Daniil 167, 169
Breakfast 173, 174 168 Children 208
Brest-Litovsk Treaty (1917) 31 Cathedral of St Dmitriy (Vladimir) entertainment 199
Breughel, Pieter the Younger 82 169 in hotels 174
Brezhnev, Leonid 32 Cathedral of the Saviour in restaurants 181
grave of 109 (Monastery of the Saviour and Russian Academic Youth Theatre
Brik, Lilya 113 Andronicus) 142 90, 199
Brik, Osip 113 Cathedral of the Transfiguration Chistoprudnyy Bulvar 114
British Airways 216, 219 (Pereslavl-Zalesskiy) 162 Chistye Prudy metro station 43
Bruce family 94 Cathedral of the Trinity 139 Choral Synagogue 113
Bryullov, Karl 123 Cathedral of the Virgin of Christ in Majesty (unattrib) 166
Bryusov Pereulok 94 Smolensk (Novodevichiy Christmas 36, 37
Street-by-Street map 88 Convent) 132 Christmas Festival of Sacred Music
Bucentaur’s Return to the Pier by the Kazan Cathedral 46, 107, 150 37
Palazzo Ducale (Canaletto) 81 opening hours 207 Churches (general)
Budget travel 175, 208–9 St Basil’s Cathedral 10, 12, 13, 45, opening hours 207
Bulgakov, Mikhail 46, 110–11 visiting churches 208
Bulgakov House-Museum 98, 153 Trinity Cathedral (Trinity Churches (individual)
grave of 133 Monastery of St Sergius) 164, Chapel Over the Well (Trinity
The Master and Margarita 98, 152, 166–7 Monastery of St Sergius) 164
153 Catherine I, Tsarina 24 Church of the Archangel Gabriel
Moscow Arts Theatre 94 Catherine II the Great, Tsarina 24, 25 114–15
Patriarch’s Ponds 98 Church of St Catherine 125 Church of the Archangel Michael
Bulgakov House-Museum 98, 153 coronation dress 67 (Kuskovo) 144
Buses 219, 225 Imperial Crown 66 Church of the Ascension
from the airport 217 Izmaylovo Park 143 (Kolomenskoe) 140
suburban buses 227 Kolomenskoe 140 Church of the Assumption
Bush, George 32 Neo-Classical architecture 46 (Novodevichiy Convent) 132
Bykova, Natalia 119 Orlov Diamond 66 Church of the Conception of St
Byzantium 19, 20 State Armoury 66 Anna 104
Tsaritsyno 51, 139 Church of the Consolation of All
C Catherine of Alexandria, St 125 Sorrows 118, 124
Café Ekus 202, 203 Caucasian food 190 Church of the Deposition of the
Café Margarita 190, 191 Caviar 182 Robe 57, 64–5
Café Max 214, 215 shops 194, 195 Church of the Great Ascension 95,
Cafés 190–91 What to Buy in Moscow 196 152
Canadian Embassy 209 Cemeteries Church of the Holy Fathers of the
Canaletto 82, 83 Novodevichiy Cemetery 133 Seven Ecumenical Councils 139
248  GENERAL INDEX

Churches (individual) (cont.) Chyomy, Daniil 123 D

Church of the Icon of the Virgin of Cinema see Film Daniil, Prince 106, 138
Bogolyubovo 99 Circus 199 Danilovskiy Market 193, 195
Church of the Intercession in Fili Moscow State Circus 198 Danilovskiy Monastery 138–9
46, 130 City Day 36 d’Anthès, Georges 75
Church of the Metropolitan Peter Civil War (1918–20) 29, 30 Day of National Unity 36
99 propaganda 31 Day of Russia 35, 36
Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Claudio, Antonio 138 Day trips 227
in Putinki 99 Climate 34–7, 206 Decamps, Alexandre-Gabriel 77
Church of Our Lady of Kazan Clothes Decembrist Rebellion (1825) 25
(Kolomenskoe) 141 in nightclubs and discos 202 Defenders of the Fatherland Day 36,
Church of the Resurrection in in restaurants 181 37
Kadashi 13, 45, 46, 118, 124 shops 194, 195 Delta Air Lines 216, 219
Church of St Barbara the Martyr 104 visiting churches 208 Demidov House
Church of St Catherine 125 Coach travel 218–19 Street-by-Street map 118
Church of St Clement 13, 119, Coins 213
Demon Seated (Vrubel) 120, 123
124–5 Cold War 29
Dental care 211
Church of St Fyodor Stratilit 115 Communications 214–15
Department of Private Collections
Church of St George 104 Communist Party
50, 77
Church of St George metro 42
Department stores 192–3, 195
(Kolomenskoe) 140 October Revolution 30
Detskiy Mir 151
Church of St George the Victorious outlawed 33
DHL 215
131 Stalinism 29
Diaghilev, Sergey 127
Church of St John the Baptist 119 Composers’ Union 94
Dialling codes 214
Church of St John the Baptist Constantine Monomachus, Emperor
Diamonds
(Kolomenskoe) 141 61, 67
State Diamond Fund 66
Church of St John the Divine Constructivism 46, 47, 113
Dionysius 62
(Novodevichiy Convent) 133 Consulates 207, 209
icons 63
Church of St John the Warrior 138 Convents
Scenes from the Life of Metropolitan
Church of St John of Zlatoust 115 Aleksandrovskiy Convent (Suzdal)
168 Peter 61
Church of St Maxim the Blessed
Convent of the Intercession Disabled travellers 208
103, 104
Church of SS Michael and Fyodor (Suzdal) 168 in hotels 174
119 Convent of the Nativity of the in restaurants 181
Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhy 125 Virgin 115 Discos 202, 203
Church of St Nicholas of the Convent of SS Martha and Mary Dmitry, “False” 21, 108
Weavers 137 126 Dmitry, Tsarevich 21
Church of St Nicholas the Novodevichiy Convent 11, 13, 46, tomb of 57, 62
Wonderworker 112 132–5 Doctors 211
Church of SS Peter and Paul 112 Conversion table 209 Dolgorukiy, Prince Yuriy
Church of St Sergius (Trinity Correa’s 190, 191 builds first kremlin 19, 55
Monastery of St Sergius) 166 Cosmonauts’ Day 34 Pereslavl-Zalesskiy 162
Church of St Sophia 127 CouchSurfing 208–209 statue of 88, 91
Church of St Vladimir 112 Country estates 51 and Suzdal 168
Church of the Saviour Not Made Arkhangelskoe 160 and Vladimir 163, 168
by Human Hand (Abramtsevo) Izmaylovo Park 143 Dolgorukov family 76
162 Kolomenskoe 140–41 Dolgov family 124
Church of the Saviour on the Kuskovo 144–5 Dolgov House
Sands 74 Ostankino Palace 146–7 Street-by-Street map 119
Church of the Trinity (Sparrow Yasnaya Polyana 169 Dolls 196
Hills) 131 Courier services 215 Dom Farfora 194, 195
Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki Craft shops 194, 195 Dom Inostrannoi Knigi 194, 195
103, 105 Cranach, Lucas the Elder Domodedovo Airport 216, 219
Church of the Twelve Apostles 58, Virgin and Child 82 Donskoy, Prince Dmitriy 20, 23
59 Credit and debit cards 208, 212 Battle of Kulikovo 20, 163, 167
Church of the Virgin of Smolensk in hotels 174 coronation 169
(Trinity Monastery of St Sergius) in restaurants 181 Icon of the Donskoy Virgin 138
165 in shops 192 Donskoy Monastery 138
Gate Church of the Intercession Crime 33, 210 Dorogomilovksy Market 193, 195,
(Novodevichiy Convent) 132 Crimean War (1853–6) 25 209
Gate Church of St John the Baptist Cruises, river 11, 221 Dostoevsky, Fyodor 99
(Trinity Monastery of St Sergius) Cuban missile crisis (1962) 32 statue of 152
165 Cubism 123 Drevo 202, 203
Gate Church of St Simeon the Cult 190, 191, 202, 203 Drinks
Stylite 139 Cup and Cake 190, 191 in restaurants 180
Gate Church of the Transfiguration Currency 207, 208, 212–13 What to Drink in Moscow 184–5
(Novodevichiy Convent) 133 Customs information 207 Duma 28
Refectory Church of St Sergius 99 Cycling 220–21 Duncan, Isadora 76, 152
St Andrew’s Anglican Church 95 Cyprian, St 110 Durdin 190, 191
see also Cathedrals; Convents; Cyril, St 19, 207 Durov Animal Theatre 199
Monasteries Cyrillic alphabet 207 Dushkin, Aleksey 40, 42

Duty-free shops 192
Dynamo Central House of Sports
199
Dzerzhinskiy, Feliks 114
statue of 114, 137, 151
E Fokine, Michel 127
Easter Sunday 34, 36
Eisenstein, Sergey 114
Eldar 201
Electrical appliances 209
Elizabeth, Tsarina 24–5, 112
Elizabeth I, Queen of England 104
Elizabeth II, Queen of England 104
Emancipation of the Serfs (1861) 25
Embassies 207, 209
Emergency services 210, 211
Empire style 27, 47
Engels, Friedrich 69
Entertainment 198–203
art cafés 202
ballet and opera 200, 201
booking tickets 198
children’s entertainment 199
classical music 200, 201
film 201
gay and lesbian nightlife 202, 203
jazz, blues and Latin music 202,
203
Moscow State Circus 198
nightclubs and discos 202, 203
rock venues 202, 203
theatre 200, 201
Ethnic restaurants 190, 191
Etiquette 208
bargaining 193
in restaurants 181
Eurasia Gallery 195
Europcar 226
European Medical Centre 211
Evropeiskiy 194, 195
“Ex-Soviet” hotels 172
Excursions 157–69
guided tours 220
The History of the Golden Ring 163
map 158–9
travel 227
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
164–7
F Gilardi, Domenico 96
Fabergé 66
Fabrique 202, 203
Faceted Palace 64
Street-by-Street map 57
“False Dmitry” 21, 108
FAQ Café 202, 203
Farmers’ Market 193
Fashion shops 194, 195
Fast food 190, 191
February Revolution (1917) 30
Federal Migration Service 209
FedEx 215
Feodosius 62
Festivals 34–7
Fetti, Domenico 83
Filaret, Patriarch Fyodor 21, 59
Film 201
Moscow International Film Festival
34
Russian Cinema Day 35
Fioravanti, Aristotele
Cathedral of the Assumption 44,
60, 166, 169
Fire services 210, 211
Flea market
Izmaylovo Park 143
Food and drink
The Flavours of Moscow 182–3
health precautions 211
light meals and snacks 190–91
What to Drink in Moscow 184–5
see also Restaurants
The Foreign Book Store 194, 195
Foreign Ministry 12, 47, 71
Moscow’s Best: Architecture 44
Street-by-Street map 72
Freeman, Richard 95
Freidenberg, Boris 90, 115
Friazin, Marco Bon 59
Friends Forever 190, 191
Frolov, Viktor 43
Front Gate Museum (Kolomenskoe)
140
Futurism 113, 123
Fyodor, Tsar 21, 132
Fyodorov, Ivan 107
G Graveyard of Fallen Monuments 137
Gagarin, Yuriy 32
grave of 10, 109
Space Museum 147
Galleries see Museums and galleries
Gallery of 19th- and 20th-Century
European and American Art 50,
77
Gallery Aktyor 194, 195
Galloway, Christopher 68
Gartman, Viktor 162
Gate Church of the Intercession
(Novodevichiy Convent) 132
Gate Church of St Simeon the
Stylite 139
Gate Church of the Transfiguration
(Novodevichiy Convent) 133
Gauguin, Paul 77
Gay and lesbian travellers 208
nightlife 202, 203
Gelfreikh, Vladimir 43, 47
George, St 18
Gippius, Karl 115
Gipsy (nightclub) 202, 203
Girl in Ukrainian Dress (Tropinin) 126
Girl with Peaches (Serov) 123, 162
Glasnost (openness) 32
Glinska, Elena 112
Gnesin Music Academy Opera
Studio 200, 201
Godunov, Boris 21
Donskoy Monastery 138
Ivan the Great Bell Tower 59
State Armoury 66
tomb of 165
Gogol (rock venue) 202, 203
Gogol, Nikolai 152, 162
grave of 133
Golden Ring 157, 163
Golenishchev, Vladimir 82
Golitsyn, Prince Nikolay 160
Golitsyn family 160
GENERAL INDEX  249
Golitsyn Gardens 131
Goncharova, Natalya (painter) 123
Goncharova, Natalya (Pushkin’s wife)
27, 75, 95, 152
Gorbachev, Mikhail 33
coup against 114, 130
outlaws Communist Party 33
perestroika and glasnost 32
Gorbushka 193, 195
Goritskiy Monastery of the
Assumption (Pereslavl-Zalesskiy)
162
Gorky, Maxim 77
Gorky Art Theatre 152
Gorky House-Museum 44, 47, 97,
152
Gorky Park 131
grave of 109
Moscow Arts Theatre 94
Tolstoy House-Museum 136
Tverskaya Ulitsa 91
Gorky Art Theatre 152
Gorky House-Museum 47, 97, 152
Moscow’s Best: Architecture 44
Gorky Park 11, 13, 131
Ice Sculpture Festival 37
Gorodetskiy, Prokhor 62
Grande Armée 26
Great Kremlin Palace 47, 54, 65
Street-by-Street map 56
Great Northern War (1700–21) 24
Green travel 220
Grigorev, Afanasiy 47, 76
Grigorev, Dmitriy 166
Gudunova, Irina 132
Guerne, Charles de 160
Guided tours 220
GUM 12, 47, 109, 192, 194, 195
Gypsies 210
Gypsy Theatre 200, 201
H
Health care 211
Helikon Opera 200, 201
Hercules and Omphale (Boucher) 83
Hermogen, Patriarch 60
Hero Cities of the Soviet Union,
monument to 150
Hertz 226
Herzen, Aleksandr 25
Herzen House-Museum 73
statue of 96
Herzen House-Museum
Street-by-Street map 73
Hiring cars 226
Historical hotels 176
Historical Museum 12, 47, 51, 101,
108
Historicism, architecture 47
History 19–33
History museums 51
Hitler, Adolf 29
Holidays, public 36
Hooch, Pieter de 83
Hospitals 211
Hostels 175
Hotel Metropol 47, 90
Street-by-Street map 89
Hotel National 91
Street-by-Street map 88
250  GENERAL INDEX

Hotels 172–9 Ivan IV the Terrible, Tsar (cont.) Kiev

boutique hotels 176–7
budget accommodation 175
chain hotels 179
children in 174
disabled travellers 174
facilities 173
historical hotels 176
location 172
luxury hotels 178
modern hotels 177–8
payment 174
reservations 172–3
security 174–5
types of hotel 172
Houdin, Jean-Antoine 83
House of Friendship 47, 97, 152
House of Unions 47, 90–91
Street-by-Street map 89
House-museums 50–51
Hungarian uprising (1956) 32
I J
Ice Sculpture Festival in Gorky Park
37
Iconostasis 63
Icons 63
Tretyakov Gallery 123
Igor Butman Jazz Club 202, 203
Illuzion 201
Immigration 206–7, 216–17
Inoculations 211
Insect repellents 211
Insurance
medical 211
travel 210
International Festival of the
Orthodox Church 37
International Music Festival 35
International Women’s Day 34, 36
Internet 214, 215
Intourist UK 209
Irish Embassy 209
Istomin, Nazariy 65
ITAR-TASS news agency 95, 152
Ivan (brother of Peter the Great) 24
Ivan I “Kalita”, Grand Prince 20
Cathedral of the Assumption 23
Kolomenskoe 140
Ivan III the Great, Grand Prince 20,
21, 55
Cathedral of the Annunciation 62
Cathedral of the Archangel 62
Cathedral of the Assumption 60
Convent of the Nativity of the
Virgin 115
Faceted Palace 64
Red Square 108
Vladimir 169
Ivan IV the Terrible, Tsar 20–21, 23,
104
Cathedral of the Annunciation 62
Cathedral of the Assumption
(Trinity Monastery of St Sergius)
165
Church of the Holy Fathers of the
Seven Ecumenical Councils 139
Ivanovskaya Hill 112
Kolomenskoe 140, 141
Monomakh Throne 61
Old English Court 103
St Basil’s Cathedral 10, 45, 110
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
166, 167
Ivan V, Tsar 166
Ivan the Great Bell Tower 10, 59, 114
Street-by-Street map 57
Ivan the Terrible and his Son on 16
November, 1581 (Repin) 122
Ivanov, Aleksandr
Hotel National 91
The Appearance of Christ to the
People 120, 122
watercolours 123
Ivanov, Viktor 30
Ivanovskaya Hill 112
Ivantsarevich 194, 195
Izmaylovo Market 193, 194,
195
Izmaylovo Park 46, 143
Izvestiya 47, 99
Jackson, Michael 90
Jagannat 190, 191
James I, King of England 66
Jazz 202, 203
Manor Jazz Festival 35
Jewellery
Tretyakov Gallery 123
Jews
Choral Synagogue 113
Joachim, Patriarch 124
K Korin, Pavel 43
Kachalov, Vasiliy 94
Kaganovich, Lazar 42
Kamenka river 168
Kaminskiy, Aleksandr
Church of St Sophia 127
Stock Exchange 102, 106
Kandinsky, Vasily 77
Karin, Semen 104
Kavos, Albert 89, 92, 93
Kazakov, Matvey 46–7
city hall 91
Golitsyn Gardens 131
House of Unions 89, 90
Moscow Old University 96
Senate 68
Tsaritsyno 139
Kazakov, Rodion 104
Kazan 21
Kazan Cathedral 46, 107, 150
Kazanskiy station 146, 218, 219
Kazy Girei, Khan 138
Kekushev, Lev 90
Kerbel, Leonid 90
Kerenskiy, Aleksandr 31
KGB 114, 151
Khachaturian, Aram 93
Khanzhonkov, Aleksandr 84
Khodzha Nasreddin v Khive 190, 191
Khrushchev, Nikita
denounces Stalin 32
grave of 133
Manège 96
metro system 42
Museum of Contemporary History
99
Palace of Congresses 58
Golden Ring 163
history 19
icons 63
Kievskaya metro station 43
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 40
Kievskiy station 218, 219
Kiprenskiy, Orest 122, 127
Kirov, Sergey 29
Kish Mish 190, 191
Kissel 183
Kitaiskiy Lyotchik Djao Da 190, 191,
202, 203
Kitay Gorod see Red Square and
Kitay Gorod
Klein, Roman
Perlov Tea House 115
Sovremennik Theatre 114
KLM 216, 219
Klodt, Pyotr
Apollo in the Chariot of the Sun 92
Klykov, Vyacheslav 108
Knipper-Chekhova, Olga 98
Kologrivov, Yuriy 145
Kolomenskoe 11, 51, 128, 140–41
Moscow’s Best: Museums 49
travel to 227
Komsomol 42, 146
Komsomolskaya metro station
42–3, 146
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 41
Komsomolskaya Ploshchad 146
Korchma Taras Bulba 190, 191
Korean War (1950–54) 32
Korolkov, Aleksey 58
Korovin, Konstantin 123
Kozlovskiy, Nikolay 115
Kramskoy, Ivan
Portrait of Pavel Tretyakov 122
Krasny Oktyabr 202
Kremlin 10, 12, 55–69
area map 55
Cathedral of the Assumption 10,
12, 60–61
history 22
A One-hour Stroll through Central
Moscow 150
State Armoury 10, 12, 66–7
Street-by-Street map 56–7
towers 68
Kremlin Cup 36
Krizis Zhanra 202, 203
Kropotkin, Prince Pyotr 40, 76
Kropotkinskaya metro station 42
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations
40
Krushchev family 76
Kruti-Pedali 221
Krutitskoe Mission 46, 142
Krylov, Ivan
statue of 98
Kulebiaka 183
Kulikovo, Battle of (1380) 20, 163,
167
Kumanin family 124
Kursk, Battle of (1943) 150
Kurskiy station 218, 219
Kuskovo 51, 144–5
Moscow’s Best: Museums 49
travel to 227
 GENERAL INDEX  251

Kustodiev, Boris Luzhniki Stadium 199, 202, 203 Mayakovskaya metro station (cont.)
The Bolsheviks 28 Lvov, Prince 31 Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 40
Kutuzov, Field Marshal Mikhail Lyudi Kak Lyudi 190, 191 Mayakovsky, Vladimir 94, 113
Battle of Borodino 26, 157, 160 Mayakovskaya metro station 40
Novokuznetskaya metro station
M Mayakovsky Museum 49, 51, 113,
43 Madame Boulanger 190, 191 151
Kvas 182, 185 Mafiya (mafia) 33 Mayakovsky Theatre 95
Magazines 215 statue of 153
L Main Post Office 215 Mayakovsky Museum 51, 113, 151
Labour Day 34, 36 Makarov, Terentiy 143 Moscow’s Best: Museums 49
Lacquered artifacts 197 Malenkiy Genii 193, 195 Mayakovsky Theatre 95
Laika 32 Malevich, Kazimir 137 Mayat, Vladimir 106
Language 207 Supremus No. 56 31 Mazepa, Ivan 112
phrase book 260–64 Maliy, Petrok 59 Mazyrin, Vladimir 47, 97
Lanseray, Yevgeniy 42 Malyy Theatre 90, 200, 201 Medical treatment 211
Latin music 202, 203 Street-by-Street map 89 Medieval Moscow 20–21, 22–3
Lebrun, Charles 83 Mamontov, Andrey 162 Medvedev, Dmitry 33
Lenin 99 Mamontov, Savva 123, 126 Megafon 214, 215
Civil War 29 Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 146, Melnikov, Konstantin 47
embalming 109 162 Melnikov House 11, 73, 74
and film industry 201 Operetta Theatre 90 Melnikov, Viktor 74
funeral 91 Mamontova, Vera 162 Melnikov House 11, 47, 74
Hotel National 91 Manège 96, 152 Street-by-Street map 73
Lenin Mausoleum 10, 12, 13, 49, Manizer, Matvey 42 Menshikov, Prince Aleksandr 114
51, 108, 109 Manor Jazz Festival 35 Menshikov, Prince Sergey 95
Palace of Soviets 77 Maps Menshikov family 95
Russian Revolution 30 Arbatskaya 71 Menus 180
Senate 69 Around Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa 118–19 Methodius, St 19, 207
statue of 147 Around Theatre Square 88–9 Metro 40–43, 217, 222–4
Tolstoy House-Museum 136 Central Moscow 16–17 map 224
What is to be Done? 28 Further Afield 129 Moscow Metro Museum 43
Lenin Mausoleum 10, 12, 13, 51, Golden Ring 163 Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations
108, 109 Kitay Gorod 102–3 40–41
Moscow’s Best: Museums 49 Kremlin 55, 56–57 tickets and travel cards 223
Leningrad see St Petersburg Metro 224 Metro Universitet 193
Leningradskiy station 146, 218, 219 Moscow and environs 15 Metsu, Gabriel 83
Lenkom Theatre 200, 201 Moscow Region 158–9 Meyerhold, Vsevolod
Lermontov, Mikhail Moscow’s Best: Architecture 44–5 Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 127
The Demon 120 Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations Bryusov Pereulok 88, 94
Lermontov House-Museum 40–41 Mayakovsky Theatre 95
50–51, 84–5 Moscow’s Best: Museums 48–9 Michelangelo 82
portrait of 84 A 90-minute Literary Walk 152–3 Mikhail Romanov, Tsar 21
Lermontov House-Museum 50–51, A One-hour Stroll through Central Chambers of the Romanov Boyars
84–5 Moscow 150–51 104
Lesbian travellers see Gay and Old Arbat 72–3 Terem Palace 65
lesbian travellers railway stations 218 Mikhaylov, Andrey 92
Levitan, Isaak 123 Red Square 108 The Millstone of Serfdom (unattrib)
Above the Eternal Peace 123 Red Square and Kitay Gorod 101 27
Levitskiy, Dmitriy 125, 127 river cruise route 221 Miloslavskiy family 24
Portrait of Countess Ursula Mniszek Russian Federation 14–15 Minin, Kuzma 21
122 Russian Revolution 30 expels “False Dmitry” 108
Libraries Street Finder 228–45 Novokuznetskaya metro station
Russian State Library 152 Tverskaya 87 43
Liga Pap 190, 191 Zamoskvoreche 117 statue of 111
Line of Life (Bely) 75 Mari Vanna 190, 191 Minin and Pozharskiy (Martos) 111
Llanori, Pietro di Giovanni 82 Maria (daughter of Tsar Alexis) Ministry of Culture 193, 195
Lomonosov, Mikhail 132 Minkus, Mikhail 47
Moscow Old University 96 Maria, Grand Duchess 28 Mironov, Aleksey 144, 146
Moscow University 24, 25 Markets 193, 195 Mironovskiy, Ivan 69
Slavic Greek-Latin Academy 107 Martini, Simone 82 Mirza, Shah of Iran 66
statue of 96 Martos, Ivan Mniszek, Countess Ursula
Lopukhin family 76 Minin and Pozharskiy 111 portrait of 122
Lopukhin Palace 133 Marx, Karl 51, 99 Mobile phones 214, 215
Lopukhina, Yevdokiya 133 Alexander Gardens 69 Modern hotels 177–8
Lost property 210 statue of 90, 151 Molière 83
Lubyanka Square 114, 151 Masha Tsigal 194, 195 Monasteries
Luch 202, 203 Maslenitsa 34 Danilovskiy Monastery 138–9
Luxury hotels 172, 178 Master Bank 212 Donskoy Monastery 138
Luzhkov, Yuri Matisse, Henri 77 Goritskiy Monastery of the
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 76 Maxim, St 104 Assumption (Pereslavl Zalesskiy)
Kazan Cathedral 107 Mayakovskaya metro station 42, 43 162
252  GENERAL INDEX
Monasteries (cont.)
Monastery of St Euthymius
(Suzdal) 168
Monastery of the Saviour and
Andronicus 46, 142
Monastery of the Sign 104
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
157, 158, 164–7
Upper Monastery of St Peter 99
Money 207, 208, 212–13
Mongols
Battle of Kulikovo 20, 163, 167
invasion 19–20
Monighetti, Ippolit 45, 112
Monomakh, Prince Vladimir 163,
168
Monomakh Throne 61
Mont Ste-Victoire (Cézanne) 77
Moo Moo 190, 191
The Morning of the Execution of the
Streltsy (Surikov) 24, 121, 122
Morozov, Aleksey 145
Morozov, Arseny 97
Morozov, Savva 98
Morozov Mansion 98
Moscow Annual Airshow 35
Moscow Arts Theatre 94, 95, 107,
200, 201
Street-by-Street map 88
Moscow Bus/Coach Station 219
Moscow Cats Theatre 199
Moscow Chamber Musical Theatre
107
Moscow Conservatory 95, 96, 200,
201
Moscow Easter Festival 34
Moscow House of Books 194, 195
Moscow In Your Pocket 209
Moscow International Film Festival
34
Moscow Metro Museum 43
The Moscow News 209
Moscow Old University 47, 96
history 24, 25, 27
Moscow’s Best: Architecture 44
Moscow Puppet Theatre 11, 199
Moscow School icons 63, 123
Moscow State Circus 198
Moscow State University (MGU) 13,
131
The Moscow Times 209
Moscow Zoo 199
Moskva House of Books 194, 195
Moskva river
cruises on 11, 221
A One-hour Stroll through Central
Moscow 150
Sophia Embankment 127
Moskvin, Ivan 94
Mosquitoes 211
Mossoviet Theatre 201
MTS 214, 215
Mukhina, Vera 96
Murillo, Bartholomé Esteban 83
Museums and galleries (general)
48–51
admission charges 207
country estates 51
history museums 51
house-museums 50–51
Moscow’s Best: Museums 48–9
Museums and galleries (cont.)
opening hours 207
painting and decorative arts 50
shops 193, 195
specialist museums 51
Museums and galleries (individual)
Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 51,
158, 162
All-Russian Exhibition Centre 13,
147
Andrey Rublev Museum of Old
Russian Art 142
Arkhangelskoe 160
Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 51,
127
Bely House-Museum 50, 72, 75
Borodino 51, 160
Borodino Panorama Museum 51,
131
Bulgakov House-Museum 98, 153
Chambers of the Romanov Boyars
46, 49, 51, 104–5
Chekhov House-Museum 50, 98
Department of Private Collections
50, 77
Front Gate Museum
(Kolomenskoe) 140
Gallery of 19th- and 20th-Century
European and American Art 50,
77
Gorky House-Museum 44, 47, 97,
152
Herzen House-Museum 73
Historical Museum 12, 47, 51, 101,
108
Kolomenskoe 11, 140–41
Lenin Mausoleum 10, 12, 13, 49,
51, 108, 109
Lermontov House-Museum
50–51, 84–5
Mayakovsky Museum 49, 51, 113,
151
Moscow Metro Museum 43
Museum of Arts and Crafts
(Suzdal) 168
Museum of Contemporary History
12, 13, 99, 153, 193, 195
Museum of the Great Patriotic War
51, 131
Museum of Modern History 51
Museum of Oriental Art 152
Museum of the Revolution see
Museum of Contemporary
History
Museum of 17th-Century Life and
Applied Art 57, 58–9
Orangery (Kuskovo) 145
Polytechnical Museum 45, 47, 51,
112
Pushkin House-Museum 11, 12,
13, 50, 72, 75
Pushkin Literary Museum 76
Pushkin State Museum of Fine
Arts 12, 48, 50, 80–83, 193, 195
Rumyantsev Museum 84
Shalyapin House-Museum 48, 50,
85
Shchusev Museum of Architecture
51, 152
Skryabin House-Museum 50, 73,
74
Museums and galleries (cont.)
Space Museum 147
Stanislavskiy House-Museum 50,
95
State Armoury 10, 48, 50, 56, 66–7
Suzdal Museum 159, 168
Suzdal Museum of Wooden
Architecture 168
Tchaikovsky House-Museum 51,
161
Tolstoy House-Museum 48, 50,
136, 152
Tolstoy Literary Museum 76
Tretyakov Gallery 10–11, 12, 13, 49,
50, 118, 120–23, 193, 195
Tretyakov on Krymsky Val (New
Tretyakov) 50, 120, 122, 137
Tropinin Museum 50, 126–7
Tsaritsyno 139
Vasnetsov House-Museum 51,
146
Yasnaya Polyana 169
Mushroom gathering 36
Music
ballet and opera 200, 201
Christmas Festival of Sacred Music
37
classical music 200, 201
International Music Festival 35
jazz, blues and Latin 202, 203
Manor Jazz Festival 35
Moscow Conservatory 95, 96
rock venues 202, 203
Russian Winter (festival) 37
Shalyapin House-Museum 85
shops 194, 195
Skryabin House-Museum 74
Summer Music Festival 35
Svyatoslav Richter December
Nights 37
Talents of Russia 36
Tchaikovsky 161
Tchaikovsky House-Museum 161
Tchaikovsky International
Competition 35
Mussorgsky, Modest 200
MXAT Gorky Art Theatre 152
N
Napoleon I, Emperor
Arsenal 69
Borodino 51, 160
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 76
invasion of Russia 25, 26
in the Kremlin 58
Novodevichiy Convent 132
occupation of Moscow 47
retreat from Moscow 160
Trinity Tower 56
Napoleonic Wars 25, 26, 131, 157
Naryshkin, Prince Lev 130
Naryshkin family 24, 46, 99
Naryshkina, Natalya 168
Nataliya Sats Children’s Musical
Theatre 131, 199
Navy Day 35
Nazi-Soviet Pact (1939) 29
Neizvestniy, Ernst 96
Nemirovich-Danchenko, Vladimir
94, 107
Neo-Classical architecture 27, 46–7
 GENERAL INDEX  253

NEP (New Economic Policy) 29
Nesterov, Mikhail 126
Nevrev, Nikolay 162
Nevskiy, Prince Aleksandr 19, 169
New Academic Year 36
New Circus 131, 198, 199
“New Russians” 33
New Tretyakov (Tretyakov on
Krymsky Val) 50, 120, 122, 137
New Year 36, 37
New Zealand Embassy 209
Newspapers 215
Nicholas I, Tsar 25
Great Kremlin Palace 65
Izmaylovo Park 143
and Pushkin 27
Shah Diamond 66
State Armoury 48, 66
Nicholas II, Tsar
assassination 29, 30, 126
Faceted Palace 64
Russian Revolution 28, 30, 31
war with Japan 28
Nicholas of Zaraysk, St 142
Nicholas Railway 25
Night at the Museum 34
Nightlife 202–3
Nike Monument 131
Nikitnikov, Grigoriy 103, 105
Nikolskaya Ulitsa 106–7
Street-by-Street map 102
Nikon, Patriarch 59, 124
church design 46, 59
Patriarch’s Palace 57, 58
split with Old Believers 21, 59
Novaya Opera 200, 201
Novgorod
Golden Ring 163
history 19, 21
icons 63, 163
Novodevichiy Cemetery 133
Novodevichiy Convent 11, 13, 46,
132–5
travel to 227
Novokuznetskaya metro station 43
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 41
Street-by-Street map 119
Novyy, Aleviz
Cathedral of the Archangel 62
Church of St Vladimir 112
Upper Monastery of St Peter 99
O Parks and gardens
Oblomov 190, 191
Obraztsov, Sergey 200
Obraztsov Puppet Theatre 199, 200
October Revolution (1917) 30
Ogarev, Nikolay
statue of 96
Ogurtsov, Bazhen 65, 68
Okhotnyy Ryad 194, 195
Oktyabr Cinema 201
Old Arbat 11
Street-by-Street map 72–3
Old Believers 21, 59
Old Circus 11, 198, 199
Old English Court 46, 104
Moscow’s Best: Architecture 45
Street-by-Street map 103
Old Merchants’ Chambers
Street-by-Street map 102
Oleg (Varangian chief ) 19
Olga, Grand Duchess 28
Olympic Sports Complex 199
Olympiyskiy Stadium 202, 203
One-day trips 227
Opekushin, Alexander 99
Opening hours 207
nightclubs and discos 202
restaurants 181
shops 192
Opera 200, 201
Operetta Theatre 90, 200, 201
Oprichniki 20
Orangery (Kuskovo) 145
Order of the Sisters of Charity 126
Orlov, Count Grigoriy 25, 66
Orlov family 95
Orthodox Church see Russian
Orthodox Church
Ostankino Palace 51, 146–7
Ostrovskiy, Aleksandr 90
statue of 89, 90
P and Menshikov 114
Painting
The Art of Icon Painting in Russia
63
see also Museums and galleries
Paisein, Ivan and Boris 60
Palace of Congresses 58
Palace of Soviets 77
Palaces
Chambers of the Romanov Boyars
46, 49, 51, 103, 104–5
Faceted Palace 57, 64
Great Kremlin Palace 47, 54, 56, 65
Kuskovo 51
Lopukhin Palace 133
Ostankino Palace 51, 146–7
Palace of the Metropolitans
(Trinity Monastery of St Sergius)
164, 167
Patriarch’s Palace 57, 58–9
State Kremlin Palace 56, 58
Terem Palace 56, 65
Tsaritsyno 51, 139
Wooden Palace (Kuskovo) 144
see also Country estates
Park Kultury metro station 42, 43
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 40
Park Pobedy metro station 43
Parking 226
Alexander Gardens 11, 69, 149,
150
Arkhangelskoe 160
Botanical Gardens 147
Gorky Park 11, 13, 131
Izmaylovo Park 143
Kolomenskoe 140
Kuskovo 144–5
Tsaritsyno 139
Victory Park 130–31
Pashkov House 46, 84
Moscow’s Best: Architecture 44
Passports 206, 207, 209
Pasta 190, 191
Pastries and sweets 190, 191
Patriarch’s Palace 58–9
Street-by-Street map 57
Patriarch’s Ponds 98, 153
Patriarshy Dom Tours 221
Paul I, Tsar 25
Paveletskiy station 218, 219
Pelmeni 183
“People’s Will” group 28
Pereslavl-Zalesskiy 162
travel to 227
Perestroika (restructuring) 32
Perlov, Sergey 115
Perlov Tea House 115
Perov, Vasiliy 122
Personal safety 210–11
Perugino, Pietro 82
Peter, Metropolitan 23
Peter I the Great, Tsar 24, 133
Arsenal 69
Church of the Intercession in Fili
130
Church of St John the Warrior 138
Faceted Palace 64
Izmaylovo Park 143
Kolomenskoe 140, 141
Mazepa betrays 112
Novodevichiy Convent 132
Pereslavl-Zalesskiy 162
Polytechnical Museum 112
statue of 137
Streltsy Rebellion 24, 125
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
164–7
Upper Monastery of St Peter 99
Peter II, Tsar 24
tomb of 62
Peter III, Tsar 24, 25
Petrovskiy Passage 194, 195
Street-by-Street map 89
Pharmacies 211
Phone cards 214
Phrase book 260–64
Picasso, Pablo 77
Young Acrobat on a Ball 50
Pickpockets 175, 210
Pioneer 201
PIPL 202, 203
Pizzas 190, 191
Pletnev, Pyotr 75
Ploshchad Revolyutsii metro station
42
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 41
Polenov, Vasiliy
Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 162
A Moscow Courtyard 74, 122
Operetta Theatre 90
Police 210, 211
traffic police 226
Politburo 32
Poltava, Battle of (1709) 24
Polubes, Stepan 143
Polyakov, Lazar 113
Polytechnical Museum 47, 51, 112
Moscow’s Best: Architecture 45
Pomerantsev, Aleksandr 47, 109
Pony Express 214
Popov factory 27
Portrait of Arseny Tropinin, the Artist’s
Son (Tropinin) 120, 122
Portrait of Countess Ursula Mniszek
(Levitskiy) 122
Portrait of Pavel Tretyakov (Kramskoy)
122
254  GENERAL INDEX
Posokhin, Mikhail 58
Pospeev, Sidor 60, 65
Postal services 215
Poussin, Nicolas 82, 83
Pozdeev, Nikolay 138
Pozharskiy, Prince Dmitriy 21
expels “False Dmitry” 108
Icon of the Kazan Virgin 107
Novokuznetskaya metro station 43
statue of 111
“Prague Spring” 32
Pravda 28, 153
Presidential Administration 68
Primitivism 123
Prokofiev, Sergey 94
grave of 133
Propaganda (nightclub) 202, 203
Public holidays 36
Public toilets 208
Pubs 190, 191
Pugachev Rebellion (1773–4) 24
Puppet theatres 11, 199
Pushkin, Alexander 27, 75, 91, 161
death of 75, 85
marriage 95, 152
portrait of 122
Pushkin House-Museum 11, 12,
13, 50, 72, 75
Spasopeskovskiy Pereulok 74
statues of 72, 99, 152
Pushkin House-Museum 11, 12, 13,
50, 75
Street-by-Street map 72
Pushkin Literary Museum 76
Pushkin Square 99, 152
Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
12, 50, 80–83
art of ancient civilizations 82
European art 82–3
floorplan 80–81
Moscow’s Best: Museums 48
shop 193, 195
Visitors’ Checklist 81
Putin, Vladimir 33, 200
Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa
Street-by-Street map 118–19
Q Museum of Contemporary History
Quarenghi, Giacomo 104
R Rimsky-Korsakov, Nikolai 200
Rabinovich, Sergey 43
Rachmaninov, Sergei 136
Moscow Conservatory 96
Operetta Theatre 90
Skryabin House-Museum 74
Radio 215
Railways see Trains
Rainfall 36
Rasputin, Grigoriy 28
Razumovskiy, Count Aleksey 112
Realist art 122
Red Army 29, 30, 42
Red Square and Kitay Gorod 13,
101–15
area map 101
hotels 176–178
Red Square 10, 12, 13, 108, 150
restaurants 187–8
St Basil’s Cathedral 110–11
Street-by-Street map 102–103
Reed, John Rostov (cont.)
grave of 109 history 19
Registration 206 Roubaud, Franz 131
Religious Procession in Kursk Province Roza Azora 194, 195
(Repin) 121, 122 Rozhin, Igor 43
Rembrandt 50, 82, 83 Rubens, Peter Paul 50, 82, 83
Ahasuerus, Haman and Esther 81, Bacchanalia 81
83 Rubinstein, Anton 96
Reni, Guido Rubinstein, Nikolay 96
Adoration of the Shepherds 83 Rublev, Andrey
Renoir, Pierre Auguste 77 Andrey Rublev Museum of Old
Repin, Ilya 77 Russian Art 142
Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 162 Andronikov Monastery 22
drawings 123 Cathedral of the Annunciation 62
Ivan the Terrible and his Son on 16 Cathedral of the Assumption
November 1581 122 (Vladimir) 169
portrait of Tolstoy’s daughter 136 icons 63, 123
Religious Procession in Kursk Monastery of the Saviour and
Province 121, 122 Andronicus 142
Tretyakov Gallery 122–3 The Trinity 121, 123, 167
Repina, Vera 162 Trinity Cathedral (Trinity
The Republics’ Tree 152 Monastery of St Sergius) 164,
Rerberg, Ilya 91 167
Rescue services 226 Rudnev, Lev 131
Responsible tourism 209 Ruffo, Marco 57, 64
Restaurants 180–91 Rumyantsev Museum 84
Arbatskaya 186 Rurik (Varangian chief ) 19
disabled travellers 181 Russian Academic Youth Theatre 90,
etiquette 181 199
The Flavours of Moscow 182–3 Russian cafés 190, 191
in hotels 173 Russian Cinema Day 35
opening times 181 Russian Federation
payment and tipping 180–81 map 14–15
reading the menu 180 Russian National Group 216, 219
Red Square and Kitay Gorod Russian Orthodox Church 139
187–8 The Art of Icon Painting in Russia
reservations 181 63
smoking in 181 Cathedral of the Assumption
Tverskaya 186–7 60–61
types of cuisine 180 Christmas 36, 37
vegetarian meals 181, 190 Easter Sunday 34
where to eat 180 history 19
Zamoskvoreche 188 International Festival of the
see also Food and drink Orthodox Church 37
Resurrection Gate 13, 107, 150 Krutitskoe Mission 142
Revolution (1905) 28 Patriarch’s Palace 58–9
Revolution (1917) 28–9, 30–31 renewed importance 33
restoration of churches 46
99 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 164
Richter, Svyatoslav 37 visiting churches 208
see also Cathedrals; Churches;
River cruises 11, 221 Convents; Monasteries
Rizhskiy station 218, 219 Russian-Revival architecture 45, 47
Roadhouse Blues Bar 202, 203 Russian State Library 152
Robert, Hubert 83 Russian Winter (festival) 37
Rock music 202, 203 Russkaya Vyshivka 194, 195
Rodchenko, Aleksandr 77, 113, 137 Russkoe Bistro 190, 191
Rokoko 194, 195 Russo-Japanese War (1904–5) 28
Rokotov, Fyodor 122 Russo-Turkish Wars 25
Rolan 201 Ruysdael, Jacob van 83
Rolling Stones (nightclub) 202, 203 Ryabushinskiy, Stepan 47, 97
Romanov, Nikita 49, 103, 104
Romanov dynasty 21 S
Alexander Gardens 69 S7 217, 219
assassination of Nicholas II 29, 30 The Sacred Supper (unattributed) 157
The Rooks Have Come (Savrasov) Safety 210–11
120 St Andrew’s Anglican Church 95
Ropet, Ivan 162 St Basil’s Cathedral 10, 12, 13, 46,
Rostand, Edmond 90 110–11
Rostov Moscow’s Best: Architecture 45
Golden Ring 163 St John the Baptist Day 35

St Petersburg
1905 Revolution 28
February Revolution (1917) 28
history 24
siege of Leningrad (1941–4) 29
travelling to Moscow from 219
Sakharov, Andrey 32
Salamonskiy, Albert 198
Salini, Tommaso 83
Sally O’Brien’s 190, 191
Salon of the Moscow Cultural Fund
194, 195
Samotsvety 194, 195
Samovars 185, 196
Sandunov, Sila 115
Sandunovskiy Baths 115
SAS 216, 219
Saviour’s Tower 68
Savrasov, Aleksey
The Rooks Have Come 120
Sberbank 212
Scenes from the Life of Metropolitan
Peter (Dionysius) 61
Schliemann, Heinrich 80
Sculpture
Graveyard of Fallen Monuments
137
see also Museums and galleries
Security 210–11
in hotels 174–5
Sedmoi Kontinent 194, 195
Selekhov, Ivan 104
Semenov, Ivan 58
Senate 47, 68–9
Sergei, Grand Prince 126
Sergiev Posad, Golden Ring 163
Sergius of Radonezh, St 167
Battle of Kulikovo 163
tomb of 166–7
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 20,
164, 166
Serov, Valentin
Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 162
drawings 123
Girl with Peaches 49, 123, 162
Serpukhovskiy, Princess Maria 115
Shalyapin, Fyodor
grave of 133
Operetta Theatre 90
Shalyapin House-Museum 48, 50,
85
Tolstoy House-Museum 136
Shalyapin House-Museum 50, 85
Moscow’s Best: Museums 48
Sharm 203
Shaw, George Bernard 90
Shchusev, Aleksey
Convent of SS Martha and Mary
126
Kazanskiy station 146
Komsomolskaya metro station
42–3
Lenin Mausoleum 49, 109
Lubyanka 114
Shchusev Museum of Architecture
51
Tverskaya ulitsa apartments 47
Shchusev Museum of Architecture
51, 152
Shekhtel, Fyodor
Arts Cinema 84
Shekhtel, Fyodor (cont.)
Gorky House-Museum 44, 47, 97
Morozov Mansion 98
Moscow Arts Theatre 94
Sophia Embankment mansion
127
Yaroslavskiy station 146
Sheremetev, Count Nikolay 146–7
Sheremetev, Count Pyotr 144
Sheremetev family
Kuskovo 49, 51, 144
Ostankino Palace 51, 146
Sheremetevo Airport 216, 219
Sherwood, Vladimir 108
Shishkin, Ivan 77, 123
Shopping 192–7
antiques 193, 194, 195
arts and crafts 194, 195
bargaining etiquette 193
bazaars and markets 193, 195
books and music 194, 195
department stores 192–3, 195
fashion and accessories 194, 195
GUM 12, 47, 109
how to pay 192
museum shops 193, 195
opening hours 192, 207
vodka and caviar 194, 195
What to Buy in Moscow 196–7
Shostakovich, Dmitriy 94, 96
grave of 133
Shuiskiy, Vasiliy 21
Sixteen Tons 202, 203
Skomoroshenko, Pavel 106
Skryabin, Aleksandr
grave of 133
Moscow Conservatory 96
Skryabin House-Museum 50, 73, 74
Skryabin House-Museum 50, 74
Street-by-Street map 73
Slavs 19
Smoking 208
in restaurants 181
Snow 37
Snyders, Frans 83
Social-Democratic Workers’ Party 28
Socialist Realism 29, 42, 137
Soho Rooms 202, 203
Solario, Pietro
Faceted Palace 57, 64
Saviour’s Tower 68
Solianka 182
Solyanka 202, 203
Somov, Konstantin 77, 123
Sophia, Regent 24
Donskoy Monastery 138
Novodevichiy Convent 132
Sophia Embankment 127
South African Embassy 209
Souvenirs
What to Buy in Moscow 196–7
Soviet Union, dissolution of 33, 151
Sovremennik Theatre 114
Space Museum 147
Space Obelisk 13, 147
Space travel 32
Sparrow Hills 13, 131
Spaso House
Street-by-Street map 72
Spasopeskovskiy Pereulok 74
Street-by-Street map 73
GENERAL INDEX  255
Sports, spectator 199
Spring in Moscow 34
Sputnik 1 32
Sputnik 2 32
Stalin, Joseph 29, 33
architecture 47
and Bulgakov 98
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 76,
150
collectivization policy 43
death of 32
exiles Trotsky 29, 31
Faceted Palace 64
funeral 91
Gorky House-Museum 97
grave of 10, 109
Khrushchev denounces 32
Lubyanka 114
and Mayakovsky 113, 153
metro system 222
Moscow State University (MGU)
131
Palace of Soviets 77
purges 96
reconstruction of Moscow 91, 149
Senate 69
Socialist-Realist art 137
World War II 43
Stalinist-Gothic architecture 47
Stanislavskiy, Konstantin
Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 127
Moscow Arts Theatre 94, 107
Stanislavskiy and Chekhov 95
Stanislavskiy House-Museum 50,
95
Stanislavskiy and Nemirovich-
Danchenko Musical Theatre 200,
201
Stanislavskiy House-Museum 50, 95
STAR Travel 209
Starlight Diner 190, 191
Startsev, Osip 142
Stasov, Vladimir 136
State Armoury 10, 12, 47, 50, 66–7
Moscow’s Best: Museums 48
Street-by-Street map 56
State Diamond Fund 66
State Kremlin Palace 58
ballet and opera 200, 201
Street-by-Street map 56
Stations
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations
40–41
railway stations 218, 219
Steen, Jan 83
Stenberg, Georgiy 137
Stenberg, Vladimir 137
Stock Exchange 102, 106
Strategic Arms Limitation Talks
(SALT) 32
Stravinsky, Igor 74
Strelka Bar 203
Streltsy Guard
Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhy
125
The Morning of the Execution of the
Streltsy (Surikov) 24, 121, 122
Streltsy Rebellion (1682) 24, 125
Stroganov family 165
Strozzi, Bernardo 83
Student travellers 208–9
256  GENERAL INDEX

Style Moderne 47 Theatre (cont.) Trans-Siberian Railway 146

Summer in Moscow 35 Mayakovsky Theatre 95 Transaero 216, 219
Summer Music Festival 35 Moscow Arts Theatre 88, 94, 95 The Transfiguration (Theophanes the
Sunshine 35 MXAT Gorky Art Theatre 152 Greek) 123
Superstitions 208 Operetta Theatre 90 Transylvania 194, 195
Supremus No. 56 (Malevich) 31 Ostankino Palace 147 Travel 216–27
Surikov, Vasiliy Russian Academic Youth Theatre air 216–17, 219
The Morning of the Execution of the 90, 199 buses 217, 219, 225, 227
Streltsy 24, 121, 122 Sovremennik Theatre 114 cars 226
Sushi 190, 191 Vakhtangova Theatre 73 children 208
Suzdal 168 Theatre Square 47, 90 coach 218–19
Golden Ring 163 Street-by-Street map 88–9 excursions from Moscow 227
history 19 Theft 210 insurance 211
icons 63 in hotels 175 metro 217, 222–4
travel to 227 Theophanes the Greek Moscow Region 159
Suzdal Museum (Suzdal) 159, 168 Cathedral of the Annunciation 62 Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations
Suzdal Museum of Wooden icons 63 40–41
Architecture (Suzdal) 168 The Transfiguration 123 river cruises 11, 221
Svyatoslav Richter December 35mm Cinema 201 taxis 217, 221
Nights 37 Tickets trains 217, 218, 219, 227
Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy 209 for concerts, ballets and the trams 225
Synagogue, Choral 113 theatre 198 trolleybuses 225
metro 223 walking in Moscow 220
T trams, trolleybuses and buses 225 Travel agencies 219
Taganka Theatre 200–201 Ticks 211 Travellers’ cheques 212
Taglioni, Marie 51, 127 Tikhon, Patriarch 138 Travisa 209
Talents of Russia 36 Tilsit, Treaty of (1807) 25, 26 Tretyakov, Pavel 117, 122
Tamanskiy, Ivan 69 Time of Troubles 21 portrait of 122
Tanuki 190, 191 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 164 statue of 118
Tarakanova, Avgusta 112 Time zones 209 Tretyakov Gallery 120–23
Taranov, Ivan 119 Timofeev, Ivan 131 Tretyakov, Sergey 120
Tatiana, Grand Duchess 28 Tinkoff 190, 191 Tretyakov Gallery 10–11, 12, 13, 50,
Tatlin, Vladimir 123 Tipping 208 120–23
Tatyana’s Day 37 in restaurants 181 drawings and watercolours 123
Taxes Titov, Pyotr floorplan 120–21
hotel 174 Apollo and the Muses 93 icons and jewellery 123
VAT 192 TNT Express Worldwide 215 Moscow’s Best: Museums 49
Taxis 217, 221 Toasts 208 shop 193, 195
Tchaikovsky, Modest 161 Toilets, public 208 Street-by-Street map 118
Tchaikovsky, Pyotr 157, 161 Tolstoy, Leo 98, 136, 157 Visitors’ Checklist 121
ballet and opera 200 Church of St Nicholas of the Tretyakov on Krymsky Val (New
Mazepa 112 Weavers 137 Tretyakov) 50, 120, 122, 137
Moscow Conservatory 96 Tolstoy House-Museum 48, 50, Trezzini, Pietro Antonio 125
statues of 96, 161 136, 152 The Trinity (Rublev) 121, 123, 167
Tchaikovsky House-Museum 51, Tolstoy Literary Museum 76 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 157,
161 War and Peace 25, 160, 169 164–7
Tchaikovsky Concert Hall 153, 200, Yasnaya Polyana 169 Cathedral of the Assumption 166
201 Tolstoy House-Museum 50, 136, Church of the Holy Spirit 158
Tchaikovsky House-Museum 51, 152 Church of St Sergius and Refectory
161 Moscow’s Best: Museums 48 166
travel to 227 Tolstoy Literary Museum 76 palaces and museums 167
Tchaikovsky International Tolstoya, Sofya Andreevna 136 Sergius of Radonezh 167
Competition 35, 161 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 69, towers and gate churches 167
Tea 185 150 travel to 227
Teatralnaya metro station 43 Tomskiy, Nikolay 43 Trinity Cathedral 166–7
Moscow’s Best: Metro Stations 41 Ton, Konstantin Trinity Sunday 35
Telephones 214, 215 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 76 Trinity Tower 58, 150
in hotels 174 Great Kremlin Palace 47, 65 Street-by-Street map 56
Television 215 Izmaylovo Park 143 Trolleybuses 225
Temperatures 37 Leningradskiy station 146 Tropinin, Vasiliy 126
Tennis State Armoury 47, 56, 66 Girl in Ukrainian Dress 126
Kremlin Cup 36 Tourist information 198, 207, 209 Portrait of Arseny Tropinin, the
Terem Palace 65 Towers, Kremlin 68 Artist’s Son 120, 122
Street-by-Street map 56 Toys 196 Tropinin Museum 50, 126–7
Teutonic Knights 19 Trains 217, 218, 219 Tropinin Museum 50, 126–7
“The Thaw” 32 Nicholas Railway 25 Trotsky, Leon 29, 31
Theatre 200, 201 stations 146, 218, 219 Tsar Bell 59
Bakhrushin Theatre Museum 51, suburban trains 227 Tsar Cannon
127 travelling to Moscow from St Street-by-Street map 57
Bolshoi Theatre 25, 89, 92–3, 151 Petersburg 219 Tsaritsyno 51, 139
Malyy Theatre 89, 90 Trams 225 Tsereteli, Zurab 76, 131, 137
 GENERAL INDEX  257

TsUM 192–3, 194, 195 Vereschagin, Vasiliy 123 Women, safety 210
Tsvetnoy Central Market 195 Vernet, Claude-Joseph 83 Wooden Palace (Kuskovo) 144
Turchaninov, Sergey 124 Victory Day 34, 36 World War I 28–9, 30, 31
Turgenev, Ivan 99, 162 Victory Park 130–31 World War II 29, 69, 108, 150
Tverskaya 87–99 Vienna, Congress of (1815) 26 metro system 43
area map 87 Vikings 19 Museum of the Great Patriotic War
Around Theatre Square 88–9 Virgin and Child (Cranach) 82 51, 131
Bolshoi Theatre 92–3 Visa 212 Siege of Leningrad 29
hotels 176–9 Visa to Russia 209 Victory Park 130
restaurants 186–7 VisaExpress 209 Writers
Tverskaya Ulitsa 10, 12, 13, 91 Visas 206, 207, 209 A 90-minute Literary Walk 152–3
Street-by-Street map 88 Vishnevskiy, Feliks 126
12 Volt 202, 203 Vitali, Ivan 131 Y
Tyurin, Evgraf 69 Vladimir 168–9 Yagoda, Genrikh 97
U Golden Ring 163 Yakitoria 190, 191
history 19 Yakovlev, Postnik 110
Ukrainian food 190, 191 icons 63
Ulitsa Arbat 12, 13 Yapona Mama 190, 191
travel to 227 Yaposha 190, 191
Street-by-Street map 72 Vladimir I, Grand Prince of Kiev
Ulitsa Ilinka 106 Yaroslavl
Crown of Monomakh 67
Street-by-Street map 102 Golden Ring 163
Monomakh Throne 61
Ulitsa Prechistenka 47, 76 icons 166
Russian Orthodox Church 19, 139
Ulitsa Varvarka 104 Yaroslavskiy station 146, 218, 219
Vnukovo Airport 216, 219
Street-by-Street map 103 Yasnaya Polyana 169
Vodka
Underground railway see Metro travel to 227
in restaurants 180
United Kingdom Embassy 209 Yegotov, Ivan 115
shops 194, 195
Universities Yekaterinburg 29, 30
What to Buy in Moscow 196
Moscow Old University 24, 25, 27, Yeliseev, Grigoriy 91
What to Drink in Moscow 184
44, 47, 96 Yeliseyevsky Food Hall 12, 13, 87, 91,
Vodootvodnyy canal
Moscow State University (MGU) 194, 195
Street-by-Street map 118
13, 131 Yelizaveta Fyodorovna, Grand
Volkonskaya, Princess Zinaida 91
Upper Monastery of St Peter 99
Volkonsky Keyser 190, 191 Duchess 126
Upside Down Cake Co. 190, 191
Voltaire 25, 83 Yeltsin, Boris 32, 33
US Dental Care 211
Vrubel, Mikhail Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 76
US Embassy 209
Ushakov, Simon 103 Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 158, grave of 133
Cathedral of the Archangel 62 162 Kazan Cathedral 107
Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki 105 Demon Seated 120, 123 Russian Orthodox Church 139
house on Ipatevskiy pereulok 105 Hotel Metropol 90 White House 130
Patriarch’s Palace 59 Morozov Mansion 98 Yermolov, General Aleksey 76
Trinity Cathedral (Trinity Vasnetsov House-Museum 146 Yesenin, Sergey 76
Monastery of St Sergius) 167 Vsevolod III, Prince 169 statue of 152, 153
Utair Aviation 217, 219 VVTs see All-Russian Exhibition Young Acrobat on a Ball (Picasso) 50
Uzbek food 190, 191 Centre Young Pioneers 97
W Yusupov, Prince Nikolay 160
V Yusupov family 160
Vaccinations 211 Walcot, William 47, 89, 90
Vakhtangov, Yevgeniy 73 Walking in Moscow 149–53, 220 Z
Vakhtangova Theatre A 90-minute Literary Walk 152–3 Zakuski (appetizers) 183
Street-by-Street map 73 A One-hour Stroll through Central
Zalesskiy, Vasiliy 127
Valentine’s Day 37 Moscow 150–51
Zamoskvoreche 13, 117–27
Van Dyck, Anthony 82–3 The Walled City (Vasnetsov) 22–3
area map 117
Van Gogh, Vincent 77 The Wanderers 50, 122–3, 137
Around Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa 118–19
Van Goyen, Jan 83 Warsaw Pact 32
The Washington Dove of Peace 32 hotels 176–9
Varangians 19, 21
Water, health precautions 211 restaurants 188
Vasilevsky 125
Weather 34–7, 206 Tretyakov Gallery 120–23
Vasnetsov, Arkady 146
Vasnetsov, Viktor “Wedding-cake” architecture 47 Zarudniy, Ivan 114, 138
Abramtsevo Estate-Museum 162 Western Union 212 Zhemchugova-Kovaleva, Praskovia
Tretyakov Gallery 120, 121 Wheelchair access see Disabled 147
Vasnetsov House-Museum 51, 146 travellers Zhukov, Marshal Georgiy
The Walled City 22–3 White House 130 statue of 108, 150, 151
Vasnetsov House-Museum 51, 146 White Russians 29 Zilberstein, Ilya 77
VAT 192 Wine 185 Zolotarev, Karp 130
VDNKh 147 Winter in Moscow 37 Zoo (Moscow Zoo) 199
Vegetarian meals 181, 190 driving 226 Zurbarán, Francisco de 83
258  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following
people whose contributions and assistance have made
the preparation of this book possible.
Main Contributor
Chistopher Rice holds a PhD in Russian history from the
University of Birmingham. He and his wife Melanie, also a
writer, first visited Russia in 1978 and have been returning
regularly ever since. They have written numerous travel
guides to the city, and to a variety of other destinations
including Prague, Berlin, and Istanbul, as well as the
Eyewitness Travel Guide to St. Petersburg.
Additional Contributors
Rose Baring studied Russian from the age of 12. She has
an MA in Modern History and divided her time between
London, Moscow and St. Petersburg for much of the early
1990s. She has written guides to St. Petersburg, Moscow,
and other destinations, including the Eyewitness Travel
Guide to Istanbul.
Marina Boughton has a BA in Film Studies from the
University of Central London. She also studied in Russia
and has worked there for a number of years. She is now
a correspondent for BBC Radio in Moscow.
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Moscow State University. Specializing in Economic
Geography and the history and cultural life of Moscow, he
has written around 200 articles and books about the city.
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260  PHRASE BOOK

Phrase Book
In this guide the Russian language has been
transliterated into Roman script following a consistent
system used by the US Board on Geographic Names.
All street and place names, and the names of most
people, are transliterated according to this system. For
some names, where a well-known English form exists,
this has been used – hence, Leo (not Lev) Tolstoy. In
particular, the names of Russian rulers, such as Peter
the Great, are given in their anglicized forms.
Throughout the book, transliterated names can be
taken as an accurate guide to pronunciation. The
Phrase Book also gives a phonetic guide to the
pronunciation of words and phrases used in everyday
situations, such as when eating out or shopping.

In an Emergency
Guidelines for Pronunciation
Help! Помогите! pamageetye!
The Cyrillic alphabet has 33 letters, of which only five (а, к, м, о, т) Pomogite!
correspond exactly to their counterparts in English. Russian has Stop! Стоп! Stop!
two pronunciations (hard and soft) of each of its vowels, and Stop!
several consonants without an equivalent. Leave me alone! Оставтье меня в astavt’ye myenya v
The right-hand column of the alphabet, below, demon- покое! pakoye!
strates how Cyrillic letters are pronounced by comparing Ostavte menya v
them to sounds in English words. However, some letters vary pokoe!
in how they are pronounced according to their position in a Call a doctor! Позовите врача! pazaveetye
word. Important exceptions are also noted below. Pozovite vracha! vracha!
On the following pages, the English is given in the left- Call an ambulance! Вызовите скорую vizaveetye
hand column, with the Russian and its transliteration in the помощь! skoru-yu pomash’!
middle column. The right-hand column provides a literal Vyzovite skoruyu
system of pronunciation and indicates the stressed syllable in pomoshch!
bold. The exception is in the Menu Decoder section, where Fire! Пожар! pazhar!
the Russian is given in the left-hand column and the English Pozhar!
translation in the right-hand column, for ease of use. Because Call the fire brigade! Вызовите vizaveetye
of the existence of genders in Russian, in a few cases both пожарных! pazharnikh!
masculine and feminine forms of a phrase are given.
Vyzovite
pozharnykh!
Police! Милиция! meeleetseeya!
Militsiya!
The Cyrillic Alphabet Where is the Где ближайший… gdye
nearest… Gde blizhayshiy… bleezhaysheey…
Аа a alimony …telephone? …телефон? …tyelyefon?
Бб b bed …telefon?
Вв v vet …hospital? …больница? …bal’neetsa?
Гг g get (see note 1) …bolnitsa?
Дд d debt …police station? …отделение …atdyelyenye
Ее e yet (see note 2) милиции? meeleetsee-ee?
Ёё e yonder …otdelenie
Жж zh leisure (but a little militsii?
harder)
Зз z zither Communication Essentials
Ии i see
Йй y boy (see note 3) Yes Да da
Кк k king Da
Лл l loot No Нет nyet
Мм m match Net
Нн n never Please Пожалуйста pazhalsta
Оо o rob (see note 4) Pozhaluysta
Thank you Спасибо spaseeba
Пп p pea
Spasibo
Рр r rat (rolling, as in
You are welcome Пожалуйста pazhalsta
Italian) Pozhaluysta
Сс s stop Excuse me Извините eezveeneet-ye
Тт t toffee Izvinite
Уу u boot Hello Здравствуйте zdrastvooyt-ye
Фф f fellow Zdravstvuyte
Хх kh kh (like loch) Goodbye До свидания da sveedanya
Цц ts lets Do svidaniya
Чч ch chair Good morning Доброе утро dobra-ye ootra
Шш sh shove Dobroe utro
Щщ shch fresh sheet (as above Good afternoon/day Добрый день dobree dyen’
but with a slight Dobryy den
roll) Good evening Добрый вечер dobree vyechyer
ъ hard sign (no sound, Dobryy vecher
but see note 5) Good night Спокойной ночи spakoynay nochee
Ыы y lid Spokoynoy nochi
ь soft sign (no sound, Morning утро ootra
but see note 5) utro
Ээ e egg Afternoon день dyen’
Юю yu youth den
Яя ya yak Evening вечер vyechyer
vecher
Notes Yesterday вчера fchyera
vchera
1) Г Pronounced as v in endings -ого and -его. Today сегодня syevodnya
2) Е Always pronounced ye at the beginning of a word, but in the sevodnya
middle of a word sometimes less distinctly (more like e). Tomorrow завтра zaftra
3) Й This letter has no distinct sound of its own. It usually zavtra
lengthens the preceeding vowel. Here здесь zdyes’
4) О When not stressed it is pronounced like a in across. zdes
5) ъ, ь The hard sign (ъ) is rare and indicates a very briefpause There там tam
before the next letter. The soft sign (ь, marked in the pronunciation tam
guide as ’) softens the preceeding consonant and adds a slight y What? Что? shto?
sound: for instance, n’ would sound like ny in ‘canyon’. Chto?
 PHRASE BOOK  261

Where? Где? gdye? avenue проспект praspyekt

Gde? prospekt
Why? Почему? pachyemoo? bridge мост most
Pochemu? most
When? Когда? kagda? embankment набережная nabyeryezhnaya
Kogda? naberezhnaya
Now сейчас seychas highway/motorway шоссе shasse
seychas shosse
Later позже pozhe lane/passage переулок pyeryeoolak
pozzhe pereulok
Can I…? можно? mozhna…? square площадь ploshat’
mozhno? ploshchad
It is можно mozhna street улица ooleetsa
possible/allowed mozhno ulitsa
It is not нельзя nyelzya flat/apartment квартира kvarteera
possible/allowed nelzya kvartira
floor этаж etash
Useful Phrases etazh
house/block дом dom
How are you? Как дела? kak dyela? dom
Kak dela? entrance вход fkhot
Very well, thank Хорошо, спасибо kharasho, spaseeba vkhod
you Khorosho, spasibo exit выход vikhot
Pleased to meet you Очень приятно ochen’ pree-yatna vykhod
Ochen priyatno river река ryeka
How do I get to…? Как добраться kak dabrat’sya da…? reka
до…? summer country дача dacha
Kak dobratsya do…? house dacha
Would you tell me Скажите, skazheet-ye, swimming pool бассейн basyeyn
when we get пожалуйста, pazhalsta, kagda basseyn
to…? коеда мы mi pree-yedyem town город gorat
приедем в…? v…? gorod
Skazhite, toilet туалет tooalyet
pozhaluysta, tualet
kogda my
priedem v…?
Is it very far? Это далеко? eta dalyeko? Making a Telephone Call
Eto daleko? Can I call abroad Можно отсюда mozhna atsyooda
Do you speak Вы говорите vi gavareet-ye from here? позвонить за pazvaneet’ za
English? по-английски? po-angleeskee? границу? graneetsoo?
Vy govorite Mozhno ostyuda
po-angliyski? pozvonit za
I don’t understand Я не понимаю ya nye granitsu?
Ya ne ponimayu paneema-yoo I would like to Позовите, pazaveet-ye,
Could you speak Говорите gavareet-ye speak to… пожалуйста… pazhalsta…
more slowly? медленнее myedlyenye-ye Pozovite,
Govorite medlennee pozhaluysta
Could you say it Повторите, paftareet-ye, Could you leave Вы можете vi mozhet-ye
again please? пожалуйста pazhalsta him/her a передать ему/ей? pyeryedat’
Povtorite, message? By mozhete peredat yemoo/yay?
pozhaluysta emy/ey?
I am lost Я заблудился ya zabloodeelsya My number is… Мой номер… moy nomyer…
(заблудилась) (zabloodeelas’) Moy nomer…
Ya zabludilsya I’ll ring back later Я позвоню позже ya pazvanyoo
(zabludilas) Ya pozvonyu pozzhe pozhe
How do you say… Как по-русски...? kak pa-rooskee…?
in Russian? Sightseeing
castle замок zamak
Useful Words zamok
big большой bal’shoy cathedral собор sabor
bolshoy sobor
small маленький malyen’kee church церковь tserkaf’
malenkiy tserkov
hot (water, food) горячий garyachee circus цирк tseerk
goryachiy tsirk
hot (weather) жарко zharka closed for cleaning санитарный день saneetarnee dyen’
zharko “cleaning day” sanitarnyy den
cold холодный khalodnee undergoing ремонт remont
kholodnyy restoration remont
good хорошо kharasho exhibition выставка vistafka
khorosho vystavka
bad плохо plokha fortress крепость kryepost’
plokho krepost
okay/fine нормально narmal’na gallery галерея galeryeya
normalno galereya
near близко bleezka garden сад sad
blizko sad
far далеко dalyeko island остров ostraf
daleko ostrov
up наверху navyerkhoo kremlin/fortified Кремль kryeml’
naverkhu stronghold kreml
down внизу fneezoo library бибдиотека beeblee-atyeka
vnizu biblioteka
early рано rana monument памятник pamyatneek
rano pamyatnik
late поздно pozdna mosque мечеть myechyet’
pozdno mechet
vacant (unoccupied) свободно svabodna museum музей moozyey
svobodno muzey
free (no charge) бесплатно byesplatna palace дворец dvaryets
besplatno dvorets
cashier/ticket office касса kasa park парк park
kassa park
262  PHRASE BOOK

parliament дума dooma travel agent бюро путешествий byooro

duma byuro puteshestviy pootyeshestvee
synagogue синагога seenagoga
sinagoga
tourist information пункт информации poonkt Staying in a Hotel
для туристов eenfarmatsee-ee
punkt informatsii dlya tooreestaf Do you have a У вас есть oo vas yest’
dlya turistov vacant room? свободный номер? svabodnee
zoo зоопарк zapark U vas yest nomyer?
zoopark svobodnyy nomer?
double room with номер с nomyer s
Shopping double bed двуспальной dvoospal’noy
кроватью kravat’-yoo
open открыто atkrita nomer s dvuspalnoy
otkryto krovatyu
closed закрыто zakrita twin room двухместный dvookhmyestnee
zakryto номер nomyer
How much does Сколько зто стоит? skol’ka eta stoeet? dvukhmestnyy
this cost? Skolko eto stoit? nomer
I would like to Я хотел (xотола) бы ya khatyel (khatyela) single room одноместный adnamyestnee
buy… купить… bi koopeet’… номер nomyer
Ya khotel (khotela) odnomestnyy nomer
by kupit… bath ванная vana-ya
Do you have…? У вас есть...? oo vas yest’…?
vannaya
U vas yest…?
shower душ doosh
Do you take credit Кредитные kryedeetnye
cards? карточки вы kartachkee vy dush
принимаете? preeneemayetye? porter носильщнк naseel’sheek
Kreditnye kartochki nosilshchik
vy prinimaete? key ключ klyooch
What time do you Во сколько вы Va skol’ka vy
open/close? открываетесь/ atkrivayetyes’/ Eating Out
закрываетесь? zakrivayetyes’? A table for two, Стол на двоих, stol na dva-eekh,
Vo skolko vy please пожалуйста pazhalsta
otkryvaetes/ I would like to Я хочу заказать ya khachoo zakazat’
zakryvaetes? book a table стол stol
This one этот etat Ya khochu zakazat
etot stol
expensive дорого doraga The bill, please Счёт, shyot, pazhalsta
dorogo пожалуйста
cheap дёшево dyoshyeva Schet,
deshevo
pozhaluysta
size размер razmyer
I am a vegetarian Я вегетерианец ya vyegyetareeanyets
razmer
white белый byelee (вегетерианка) (vyegyetareeanka)
belyy Ya vegeterianets
black чёрный chyornee (vegeterianka)
chernyy breakfast завтрак zaftrak
red красный krasnee zavtrak
krasnyy lunch обед abyet
yellow жёлтый zholtee obed
zheltyy dinner ужин oozheen
green зелёный zyelyonee uzhin
zelenyy waiter! официант! afeetsee-ant!
dark blue синий seenee ofitsiant!
siniy waitress! официантка! afeetsee-antka!
light blue голубой galooboy ofitsiantka!
goluboy dish of the day фирменное блюдо feermenoye
brown коричневый kareechnyevee firmennoe blyudo blyooda
korichnevyy appetizers/starters закуски zakooskee
main course zakuski ftaroye blyooda
Types of Shop второе блюдо
meat and poultry vtoroe blyudo myasniye blyooda
bank банк bank dishes мясные блюда
bank fish and seafood myasnye blyuda ribniye blyooda
bakery булочная boolachna-ya dishes рыбные блюда
bulochnaya vegetable dishes rybnye blyuda avashshniye
bookshop книжный магазин kneezhnee овощные блюда blyooda
knizhnyy magazin magazeen dessert ovoshchnye blyuda dyesyert
butcher мясной магазин myasnoy magazeen десерт
myasnoy magazin
drinks desert napeetkee
camera shop фото-товары foto-tavari
напитки
foto-tovary
chemist аптека aptyeka vegetables napitki ovashshee
apteka овощи
delicatessen гастроном gastranom bread ovoshchi khlyeb
gastronom хлеб
department store универмаг ooneevyermag wine list khleb karta veen
univermag карта вин
florist цветы tsvyeti rare (steak) karta vin nyedazharenee
tsvety недожаренный
grocer бакалея bakalye-ya well done (steak) nedozharennyy prozharenee
bakaleya прожаренный
hairdresser парикмахерская pareekmakhyerskaya glass prozharennyy stakan
parikmakherskaya стакан
market рынок rinak bottle stakan bootilka
rynok бутылка
newspaper stand газетный киоск gazyetnee kee-osk knife butylka nosh
gazetniy kiosk нож
post office почта pochta fork nozh veelka
pochta вилка
record shop грампластинки gramplasteenkee spoon vilka loshka
gramplastinki ложка
shoe shop обувь oboof’ plate lozhka taryelka
obuv тарелка
 PHRASE BOOK  263

napkin tarelka salfyetka печёный pyechyonee baked

салфетка pechenyy
salt salfetka sol пиво peeva beer
сопь pivo
pepper sol pyeryets пирог peerok pie
переЦ pirog
butter/oil perets masla пирожки peerashkee small parcels with
масло pirozhki savoury fillings
sugar maslo sakhar помидор pameedor tomato
сахар pomidor
продукты моря pradookti morya seafood
Menu Decoder produkty morya
абрикос abreekos apricot рыба riba fish
abrikos ryba
апельсин apyel’seen orange салат salat salad
apelsin salat
апельсиновый сок apyel’seenavee sok orange juice свинина sveeneena pork
apelsinovyy sok svinina
арбуз arbooz water melon сельдь sye’ld’ herring
arbuz seld
белое вино byelaye veeno white wine сосиски saseeskee sausages
beloe vino sosiski
бифштекс beefshtyeks steak сыр sir cheese
bifshteks syr
блины bleeni pancakes сырой siroy raw
bliny syroy
борщ borshsh borsch (beetroot утка ootka duck
soup) utka
borshch фасоль fasol’ beans
варенье varyen’ye Russian syrup-jam fasol
varene форель faryel’ trout
варёный varyonee boiled forel
varenyy чай chai tea
ветчина vyetcheena ham chay
vetchina чеснок chyesnok garlic
вола vada water chesnok
voda шашлык shashlik kebab
говядина gavyadeena beef shashlyk
govyadina яйцо yaytso egg
грибы greebi mushrooms yaytso
griby слива sleeva plum
груша groosha pear sliva
grusha фрукты frookti fruit
гусь goos goose frukty
gus яблоко yablaka apple
джем dzhem jam yabloko
dzhem
жареный zharyenee roasted/grilled/fried Transport
zharenyy north север syever
икра eekra black caviar sever
ikra south юг yook
икра красная/кета eekra krasna-ya/ red caviar yug
ikra krasna-ya/keta kyeta east восток vastok
капуста kapoosta cabbage vostok
kapusta west запад zapat
картофель kartofyel’ potato zapad
kartofel airport аэропорт aeraport
квас kvas kvas (sweet, mildly aeroport
kvas alcoholic drink) aeroplane самолёт samalyot
клубника kloobneeka strawberries samolet
klubnika traffic police ГАИ Ga-ee
колбаса kalbasa salami sausage GAI
kolbasa
bus автобус aftoboos
кофе kofye coffee
avtobus
kofe
bus station автобусная aftoboosna-ya
красное вино krasnoye veeno red wine
krasnoe vino станция stantsee-ya
креветки kryevyetkee prawns avtobusnaya
krevetki stantsiya
курица kooreetsa chicken bus stop остановка автобса astanofka aftoboosa
kuritsa ostanovka avtobusa
лук look onion car мащина masheena
luk mashina
малина maleena raspberries flight рейс ryeys
malina reys
минеральная вода mineral’naya vada mineral water metro (station) (станция) метро (stantsee-ya) myetro
mineralnaya voda (stantsiya) metro
мороженое marozhena-ye ice-cream no entry нет входа nyet fkhoda
morozhenoe net vkhoda
мясо myasa meat no exit нет выхода nyet vikhada
myaso net vykhoda
оглрец agooryets cucumber parking автостоянка aftostoyanka
ogurets avtostoyanka
осетрина asyetreena sturgeon petrol бензин byenzeen
osetrina benzin
нельмени pyel’myenee meat or fish railway железная дорога zhelyezna-ya
pelmeni dumplings zheleznaya doroga daroga
персик pyerseek peach railway station вокзал vagzal
persik vokzal
печенье pyechyen’ye biscuit return ticket обратный билет obratnee beelyet
pechene obratniy bilet
печёика pyechyonka liver seat место myesta
pechenka mesto
264  PHRASE BOOK

suburban train пригородный поезд preegaradnee 23 двадцатъ три dvatsat’ tree

prigorodniy poezd po-yezd dvadtsat tri
straight on прямо pryama 24 двадцатъ четыре dvatsat’ chyetir-ye
pryamo dvadtsat chetyre
taxi такси taksee 25 двадцатъ пятъ dvatsat’ pyat’
taksi dvadtsat pyat
ticket билет beelyet 30 тридцатъ treetsat’
bilet tridtsat
token (for a single жетон zheton 40 сорок sorak
metro journey) zheton sorok
to the left налево nalyeva 50 пятъдесятъ pyadyesyat’
nalevo pyatdesyat
to the right направо naprava 60 щестъдесят shes’ dyesyat
napravo shestdesyat
train поезд po-yezd 70 семъдесят syem’dyesyat
poezd
semdesyat
tram трамвай tramvay
80 восемъдесятъ vosyem’dyesyat
tramvay
trolleybus троллейбус tralyeyboos vosemdesyat
trolleybus 90 девяносто dyevyanosta
devyanosto
100 сто sto
Numbers sto
1 один/одна/одно adeen/adna/adno 200 двести dvyestee
odin/odna/odno dvesti
2 два/две dva/dvye 300 триста treesta
dva/dve trista
3 три tree 400 четыреста chyetiryesta
tri chetyresta
4 четыре chyetir-ye 500 пятьсот pyat’sot
chetyre pyatsot
5 пятъ pyat’ 1,000 тысяча tisyacha
pyat tysyacha
6 шестъ shest’ 2,000 две тысяч dvye tisyach
shest
dve tysyach
7 семь syem’
5,000 пятъ тысяч pyat’ tisyach
sem
pyat tysyach
8 восемъ vosyem’
vosem 1,000,000 миллион meelee-on
9 девятъ dyevyat’ million
devyat
10 десятъ dyesyat’ Time, Days and Dates
desyat one minute одна минута adna meenoota
11 одиннадцатъ adeenatsat’ odna minuta
odinnadtsat one hour час chas
12 двенадцатъ dvyenatsat’ chas
dvenadtsat half an hour полчаса polchasa
13 тринадцатъ treenatsat’ polchasa
trinadtsat day денъ dyen’
14 четырнадцатъ chyetirnatsat’
den
chetyrnadtsat
week неделя nyedyel-ya
15 пятнадцатъ pyatnatsat’
pyatnadtsat nedelya
16 щестнадцатъ shestnatsat’ Monday понеделъник panyedyel’neek
shestnadtsat ponedelnik
17 семнадцатъ syemnatsat’ Tuesday вторник ftorneek
semnadtsat vtornik
18 восемнадцатъ vasyemnatsat’ Wednesday среда sryeda
vosemnadtsat sreda
19 девятнадцатъ dyevyatnatsat’ Thursday четверг chyetvyerk
devyatnadtsat chetverg
20 двадцатъ dvatsat’ Friday пятница pyatneetsa
dvadtsat pyatnitsa
21 двадцатъ один dvatsat’ adeen Saturday суббота soobota
dvadtsat odin subbota
22 двадцатъ два dvatsat’ dva Sunday воскресенъе vaskryesyen’ye
dvadtsat dva voskresene