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serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 177

pojasna kopca s ukrasom od almandina


i ostacima tkanine iz ratnickog groba
otkrivenog u novom cemincu u baranji
belt buckle with almandine ornament
and pieces of fabric from a warrior grave
discovered in novi ceminac, in baranja

Anita Dugonjić Anita Dugonjić


Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu Archaeological Museum in Zagreb
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19
HR – 10000 Zagreb HR – 10000 Zagreb
adugonjic@amz.hr adugonjic@amz.hr

Julia Fileš Kramberger Julia Fileš Kramberger


Odsjek za arheologiju Department for Archaeology
Filozofski fakultet Faculty of Humanities and Social Studies
Sveučilište u Zagrebu University of Zagreb
Ivana Lučića 3 Ivana Lučića 3
HR – 10000 Zagreb HR – 10000 Zagreb
jkkrambe@ffzg.hr jkkrambe@ffzg.hr

Jacqueline Balen Jacqueline Balen


Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu Archaeological Museum in Zagreb
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19
HR – 10000 Zagreb HR – 10000 Zagreb
jbalen@amz.hr jbalen@amz.hr

UDK / UDC: 904:671.121.2(497.543 Novi Čeminac)"653"


Izvorni znanstveni rad / Original scientific paper

Tema je članka jedinstveni nalaz kopče pronađene na brojčano The topic of the article is the unique find of a buckle, discovered at
malom groblju germanske pripadnosti u Novom Čemincu u hr- a small Germanic cemetery in Novi Čeminac, in Baranja, Croatia.
vatskoj Baranji. Željezna, almandinima bogato ukrašena pojasna An abundantly decorated iron belt buckle was discovered in situ
kopča pronađena je in situ iznad zdjelice pokojnika i djelomično above the pelvis of the deceased, and partially under the sword,
ispod mača, a bila je dio vojnog pojasa. Kopča iz Novog Čeminca and was a part of a soldier’s belt. The buckle from Novi Čeminac
nema neposredne paralele, a prema tipološkim i stilskim karak- does not have related examples at other sites; and, according to
teristikama, pripada krugu mediteranskih kopči druge polovi- typological and stylistic characteristics, it belongs to the circle of
ne 5. i početka 6. stoljeća. Analiza očuvane tkanine na stražnjoj Mediterranean buckles of the second half of the 5th century and
strani kopče pokazala je da je riječ o dijelu odjeće pokojnika, a the beginning of the 6th. Analysis of the fabric discovered on the
vjerojatno je riječ o dijelu gornjeg, širega odjevnog predmeta, back of the belt buckle shows that it was part of the deceased’s
skupljenog i opasanoga pojasom. Tkanina je fine, vjerojatno lo- clothes, and it is possible that it was the upper garment, a wider
kalne proizvodnje te relativno tipičnih tehničkih karakteristika piece of attire, gathered and girded with a belt. The cloth is of
za srednju Europu onoga razdoblja. fine manufacture, probably local, and shows technical character-
istics relatively typical of the Central Europe of that period.

Ključne riječi: Key words:


Novi Čeminac, Baranja, grob, pojasna kopča, almandini, tkanina, druga polovi- Novi Čeminac, Baranja, grave, belt buckle, almandine, textile, second half of the
na 5. i početak 6. stoljeća 5th c. and beginning of the 6th c. AD
178 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

Karta 1. Položaj nalazišta Novi Čemi-


nac-Jauhov salaš u Baranji (izradio P.
Dugonjić).
Map 1. Position of the Novi Čeminac-
Jauhov Salaš site in Baranja (made by
P. Dugonjić).

Uvod1 Introduction1

Baranja predstavlja regiju u Republici Hrvatskoj s iznimno povolj- Baranja is a region in modern-day Croatia with an exception-
nim zemljopisnim položajem, omeđenu dvjema rijekama koje su ally advantageous geographical position, bounded by two riv-
ujedno i važni komunikacijski pravci. Drava i Dunav odvajaju spe- ers, which are also important communication routes. The rivers
cifičan prostor Baranje od okolnog prostora Panonske nizine. Za- Drava and Danube separate the specific area of Baranja from the
hvaljujući vodenom bogatstvu, raznolikom životinjskom svijetu, surrounding area of the Pannonian Plain. Thanks to its aquatic
plodnome tlu te prirodnim zakloništima u svom brežuljkastom resources, diverse animal life, fertile ground and natural habi-
dijelu oko Banovog Brda, Baranja je kroz prošlost bila primamljiv tats in its hilly part around Banovo Brdo, Baranja has always
prostor za naseljavanje i trajniji boravak mnogim arheološkim been a very attractive area for living, and served as a permanent
populacijama, o čemu najbolje svjedoči broj od preko stotinu place of residence for numerous archaeological populaces. This
zabilježenih nalazišta. Iako je u posljednjih šezdesetak godina is witnessed by the number – over a hundred – of archaeologi-
na ovom prostoru provedena nekolicina projekata sustavnog cal sites discovered in the area. There have been a few projects
rekognosciranja, kao i sondažnih zaštitnih te sustavnih istraži- of systematic survey, as well as sondage, protective and system-
vanja manjeg dijela nalazišta koji su potvrdili važnost prostora atic research on a smallish number of sites in the last sixty years,
Baranje u proučavanju svih arheoloških razdoblja, prva velika which have established the importance of this area in the study
zaštitna arheološka istraživanja na čak 16 nalazišta su ona pro- of all archaeological periods. The first large-scale archaeological
vedena tijekom 2014. i 2015. godine na trasi buduće autoceste A5, excavations, on as many as 16 sites, were carried out during 2014
odnosno između Osijeka i Belog Manastira.2 Arheološki muzej u and 2015 on the planned route of the A5 motorway, that is, be-
Zagrebu tada je proveo istraživanja na četiri lokacije, od kojih se tween Osijek and Beli Manastir.2 The Archaeological Museum in
posebno ističu ona provedena na nalazištu Novi Čeminac-Jauhov Zagreb carried out the research over four locations, from which

1 Autorice ovaj rad posvećuju dragom kolegi i mentoru dr. sc. Željku Demi 1 The authors dedicate this paper to a dear colleague and mentor, Dr Želj-
koji je od trenutka otkrića groblja u Novom Čemincu pomogao u njegovu razu- ko Demo, who, from the moment the cemetery at the Novi Čeminac site was dis-
mijevanju svojim savjetima i razgovorima, što im je bilo od neizmjerne pomoći. covered, helped them understand it with conversation and advice which was of
2 Sva su spomenuta nalazišta predstavljena na prigodnoj izložbi „Baština immense help to them.
Baranje“ koja je tijekom 2016. i 2017. godine bila prikazana u Muzeju Slavonije, 2 All sites mentioned were on display during the exhibition “Baština Ba-
Arheološkome muzeju u Zagrebu i Etnološkom centru baranjske baštine u Belo- ranje”, which was, during 2016 and 2017, on display in the Museum of Slavonia
me Manastiru. in Osijek, the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, and the Ethnology Centre of
Baranja’s Heritage, in Beli Manastir.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 179

SliKa 1. Plan groblja na nalazištu


Novi Čeminac-Jauhov salaš s označe-
nim grobom 5 (izradio M. Mađerić).
Figure 1. Plan of the cemetery at
Novi Čeminac-Jauhov Salaš with
grave 5 marked (made by M. Mađerić).

SliKa 2. Grob 5 s označenim položa-


jem kopče (snimio J. Zorić; obradili M.
Mađerić i A. Dugonjić).
Figure 2. Grave 5 with marked po-
sition of the buckle (photo by J.
Zorić; adapted by M. Mađerić and A.
Dugonjić).
180 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

salaš (Karta 1).3 Na nalazištu su ustanovljeni tragovi arheoloških the research carried out at the site of Novi Čeminac-Jauhov Salaš
razdoblja od pretpovijesti do kasnoga srednjeg vijeka. Dokumen- must be specially mentioned (Map 1).3 Traces of archaeological
tirani ostaci stambenih objekata i grobovi s bogatim prilozima periods from prehistory to the late Middle Ages have been dis-
su, nakon provedenih tipološko-komparativnih analiza i datira- covered at the site. The documented remains of residential build-
nja metodom C14, datirani u 5. i prvu polovinu 6. stoljeća. Dvije ings and graves with rich contributions are, after typological
skupine po 5 grobova koje čine groblje međusobno su udaljene comparative analyses and dating using the C14 method, dated to
oko 50 m i razlikujemo ih kao sjevernu i južnu skupinu.4 U gro- the 5th century and the first half of the 6th. The two groups of five
bove je ukopano 10 osoba, od čega četiri muškarca, četiri žene i graves each that form the cemetery are about 50 m apart, and
dvoje djece (sl. 1). we distinguish them as the northern and southern groups.4 The
graves hold ten individuals: four were men, four were women,
and two were children (Fig. 1).

O načinu izrade The method of production


i ukrašavanju kopče and the decoration of the buckle

Predmet ovog rada jedinstven je nalaz: dvodijelna lijevana poja- The subject of this paper is a unique find: a two-part cast belt
sna kopča (sl. 3–6) pronađena u grobu muškarca (grob 5, sjeverna buckle (Figs 3–6) found in the grave of a man (grave 5, northern
skupina) koji je u trenutku smrti bio u dobi između 30 i 40 godi- group) who was between 30 and 40 years old at the time of death,
na, visine oko 176 cm, te je imao umjetno oblikovanu, odnosno and about 176 cm tall, and who had an artificially shaped or ar-
umjetno deformiranu lubanju. Pokopan je u drvenom lijesu, tificially deformed skull. He was buried in a wooden coffin, and
odjeven u raskošnu odjeću s nizom predmeta: kožnim pojasom dressed in ornate clothing with a series of items: a leather belt
na kojem je visio mač u koricama,5 željeznim nožem, kremenom, which held a sword in a scabbard,5 an iron knife, flint, tweezers,
pincetom te cipelama od kojih su ostale dvije srebrne pređice s and shoes of which only the two silver buckle loops with thorn
trnom. Na kostima pokojnika uočeni su tragovi iznimnog fizičkog remained (Fig. 2). Traces of extreme physical exertion in the
naprezanja u području ramena, ruku i šaka. Otkrivene su traume shoulder area, arms and hands were noticed on the bones of the
na stopalu, palčanoj kosti, a uočena je i antemortalna fraktura deceased. Trauma to the foot and thumb was detected, and an
čela.6 ante-mortem fracture of the forehead was observed.6

Kopča je prilikom iskopavanja bila neprepoznatljivog oblika, iz The buckle was unrecognizable during the excavation, during
groba je izvađena prekrivena slojem zemlje, nečistoće i željeznih which it was recovered from the grave covered with a layer of
korozijskih naslaga i među nalaze je uvedena kao željezni pred- soil and iron-corrosion deposits, and introduced among the
met nepoznate funkcije. Zbog svoje kompleksnosti, predmet je finds as an iron object of unknown function. Due to its complex-
podvrgnut rendgenskom snimanju, a radiogram je pokazao bo- ity, the object was subjected to X-ray imaging, and the radiogram
gato ukrašenu kopču unutar amorfne mase korodiranog materi- showed a richly decorated buckle inside an amorphous mass of
jala (sl. 5).7 corroded material (Fig. 5).7

Dvodijelna je pojasna kopča sastavljena od nekoliko različitih The two-part belt buckle is composed of several different materi-
materijala: željeza kao osnovnog materijala, slitine srebra, sliti- als: iron as the basic material, silver alloy, copper alloy, and pre-
ne bakra te dragog kamena – almandina. Na izduženoj ovalnoj cious stone: almandine. On an elongated oval iron buckle loop
željeznoj pređici kružnog presjeka trideset i tri su ureza ispunje- of circular cross-section, thirty-three incisions were filled with
na bakrenom slitinom, od kojih je u samo dvadeset ureza očuva- copper alloy, of which only twenty incisions have a preserved
na ispuna. Masivan gladak trn od slitine srebra (presjeka u obliku fill. A massive smooth thorn of silver alloy (D-shaped cross-sec-
slova D) pri vrhu je savijen, a na korijenu proširen u četvrtastu tion) is bent at the apex, and extended at the root into a square
bazu ispunjenu okruglim, ravno rezanim almandinom bez ćelije. base filled with a round, flat-cut almandine without a cell. The
Ravni završetak trna prelazi u suženu traku, savijenu oko prečke straight end of the thorn turns into a narrowed strip which is

3 Preliminarni su rezultati prikazani na izložbi pod nazivom „JASA, rezulta- 3 Preliminary results were presented at an exhibition called “JASA, the re-
ti arheoloških istraživanja lokaliteta Novi Čeminac-Jauhov salaš“, koja je već po- sults of archaeological research at the Novi Čeminac-Jauhov Salaš site”, which
četkom 2016. godine bila postavljena u Centru za kulturu grada Belog Manasti- was set up at the Beli Manastir Cultural Centre in early 2016, with an accom-
ra, uz prigodni prateći deplijan (Balen et al. 2016a). panying leaflet (Balen et al. 2016a).
4 Tijekom istraživanja je dokumentiran još jedan vrlo loše očuvan grob, 4 Another very poorly preserved grave was documented during the resear-
ukopan u plitku raku i izdvojen od dviju navedenih grupa. Način ukopa i prilozi ch, buried in a shallow bier, and separated from the two groups mentioned. The
(keramičke posude) u grobu ne upućuju na isto razdoblje (Balen et al. 2016b, 19). manner of burial and the contributions (ceramic vessels) in the tomb do not in-
5 Željezni mač, srebrni okov mača (ger. ortband), srebrna pređica i srebrni dicate the same period (Balen et al. 2016b, 19).
okov još nepoznate funkcije nalaze se u postupku konzervatorsko-resturator- 5 The iron sword, sword’s silver fitting (ger. ortband), silver buckle loop,
skog zahvata u laboratoriju AMZ-a. and silver fitting of as yet unknown function are undergoing the process of con-
6 Šlaus et al. 2015, 15–16. servation and restoration in the AMZ laboratory.

7 O detaljnom konzervatorsko-restauratorskom zahvatu, vidi Latinović 6 Šlaus et al. 2015, 15–16.


2016. 7 For the detailed conservation and restoration work, see Latinović 2016.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 181

SliKa 3. Kopča iz Novog Čeminca: prednja i bočna strana (snimio I. Krajcar). Figure 3. Buckle from Novi Čeminac: front and side (photo by I. Krajcar).

pređice. Pravokutni okov kopče sastoji se od dva dijela: od gor- bent around the crossbar of the buckle loop. The rectangular
nje pločice, spojene nosačem pređice na donju, i donje pločice fitting of the buckle consists of two parts: the upper plate con-
koja nije vidljiva zbog ostataka mineralizirane tkanine. Između nected by a buckle-loop carrier to the lower plate, and the lower
pločica okova nalaze se ostaci kožnog remena. Pločice i kožni plate, which is not visible due to the remains of mineralized fab-
remen su u uglovima bili spojeni zakovicama od slitine bakra ric. Remains of a leather belt were found between the plates of
s okruglim glavama, što je vidljivo na gornjoj pločici. Gornja je the fitting. The plates and the leather strap were connected at
strana okova ukrašena nizom od sedam okruglih, ravno rezanih the corners with copper-alloy rivets with round heads, which is
almandina, učvršćenih u ćelije postavljene u dva reda. Za izradu clearly visible on the upper plate. The upper side of the fitting
ćelija upotrijebljena je folija od slitine bakra, a na dvije ćelije (is- is decorated with a series of seven round, flat-cut almandines
pod almandina) moguće je uočiti ukras utisnutoga mrežastog fixed in cells arranged in two rows. Copper-alloy foil was used
motiva. Mrežasti je motiv na folijama davao živost i briljantnost to form the cells, and cross-hatched foil decoration can be seen
predmetu jer se uočavao kroz tanke translucentne almandinske on two cells (below the almandine). The cross-hatched motif on
pločice.8 Na cijeloj se kopči nalazi petnaest almandina: četrnaest the foils gave liveliness and brilliance to the object, as it could
na okovu, a jedan na trnu kopče. Između dva reda almandina na be seen through the thin, translucent almandine tiles.8 There
okovu nalazi se niz od osam okruglih ćelija (udubina), ispunjenih are fifteen almandines on the buckle: fourteen on the fitting,
tankim okruglim listićem od slitine bakra, a isti je takav niz smje- and one on the thorn base of the buckle. Between the two rows
šten ispod drugog reda almandina uz rub okova, gdje se nalazi of almandines on the fitting there is a row of eight round cells
šest, a ne osam ćelija (zbog zakovica koje se nalaze u uglovima). (recesses) filled with a thin round sheet of copper alloy, and the
Navedenih 14 listića u udubinama imaju funkciju ukrasa. same row is located below the second row of almandines along
the edge of the fitting, where there are six, instead of eight cells
(due to the rivets located in the corners). These 14 sheets in the
recesses have a decorative function.

8 Arrhenius 1965, 34; Avent, Leigh 1977, 1–46. 8 Arrhenius 1965, 34; Avent, Leigh 1977, 1–46.
182 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

SliKa 4. Kopča iz Novog Čeminca: stražnja strana (snimio I. Krajcar). Figure 4. Buckle from Novi Čeminac: back (photo by I. Krajcar).

Dimenzije kopče su sljedeće: dužina 45 mm, širina 48 mm, deblji- The buckle’s dimensions are as follows: length 45 mm, width 48
na 16 mm. Pređica je 23 mm dužine, 38 mm širine, 6 mm debljine, mm, thickness 16 mm. The buckle loop is 23 mm long, 38 mm wide
a urezi na pređici su 0,5 mm debljine i nalaze se samo u gornjoj and 6 mm thick; incisions on the loop are 0.5 mm thick, and are
polovini pređice. Trn je 26 mm dužine, 6 mm širine; širina kvadra- situated only in the upper half of the loop. The thorn is 26 mm
tičnog korijena iznosi 7 x 7 mm, debljina iznosi 3 mm, a deblji- long, 6 mm wide and 3 mm thick; its root is 7 mm long, 7 mm wide
na korijena 4 mm. Promjer almandina na korijenu iznosi 5 mm, and 4 mm thick. The diameter of the almandines on the root is
debljina almandina oko 1 mm. Okov (gornja pločica) je dužine 23 5 mm, and their thickness is approximately 1 mm. The fitting
mm, širine 42 mm, debljine 2 mm; promjer glava zakovica iznosi (upper plate) is 23 mm long, 42 mm wide and 2 mm thick; rivet
3 mm, dužine 7 mm. Promjer almandina na okovu iznosi od 3 do head diameter is 3 mm, and length is 7 mm. The diameter of the
3,5 mm, debljine oko 1 mm, a ćelije od slitine bakra, u kojima se almandines is from 3 to 3.5 mm, thickness is approximately 1 mm,
nalaze almandini, debljine oko 0,5 do 0,8 mm, dok je maksimalan the cells made of copper alloy, which hold the almandines, are
promjer ćelija, u kojima se nalaze almandini, 4 do 5 mm. Listići from 0.5 to 0.8 mm thick, while the maximum diameter of the
od slitine bakra debljine su oko 0,03 mm, a njihov promjer iznosi cells which hold the almandines is 4 to 5 mm. The sheets made
2 do 2,5 mm. of copper alloy are 0.03 mm thick, and their diameter varies from
2 to 1.5 mm.
Struktura i korišteni materijal upućuju na cloisonné tehniku izra-
de ukrasa, a u slučaju pojasne kopče iz Novog Čeminca riječ je The structure and the material used indicate the cloisonné tech-
o specifičnoj tehnici prema kojoj se udubljenja, odnosno ćelije, nique of making ornaments; in the case of the belt buckle from
izrađuju u baznom metalu (u ovom slučaju od željeza), a zatim se Novi Čeminac, it is a specific technique according to which the

SliKa 5. Radiogram s vidljivim oblikom predmeta i ukrasima (Latinović 2016, 54,


sl. 3).
Figure 5. Radiogram showing the visible shape of the item, and its decoration
(Latinović 2016, 54, sl. 3).
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 183

SliKa 6. Crtež kopče iz


Novog Čeminca (izradila
M. Galić).
Figure 6. A drawing of
the buckle from Novi
Čeminac (made by M.
Galić).

ispunjavaju dragim kamenom ili obojenim staklom (za razliku od recesses, i.e. cells, are produced in base metal (in this case iron),
poznate tehnike slaganja zidova koji se leme jedan za drugog i and consequently filled with precious stone or coloured glass
za podlogu; cloisonné franc. pregrada, barijera). Ćelije poslagane (unlike the known technique of stacking walls that are soldered
u gusti niz stvaraju ponavljajući uzorak, stoga ova tehnika daje to each other and to the base; cloisonné, French: partition, bar-
isti vizualni efekt kao pravo kloazoniranje (real cloisonné), iako rier). Cells arranged in a dense sequence create a repetitive pat-
je ovdje riječ o tehnici champlevé (pseudo cloisonné).9 Bez obzi- tern; therefore this technique gives the same visual effect as
ra na drugačiju izradu, ovaj način ukrašavanja i dalje nazivamo real cloisonné, although this is a champlevé (pseudo-cloisonné)
cloisonné. Almandin, dragi kamen koji ukrašava kopču iz Novog technique.9 Regardless of the different manufacturing process,
Čeminca, jedan je od najčešćih dragih kamenova na Zemlji (pre- this way of decorating is still called cloisonné. Almandine, the
poznate su 24 vrste ovog minerala), a analize pokazuju da su u gemstone that adorns the buckle from Novi Čeminac, is one of
klasičnom i ranosrednjovjekovnom razdoblju najčešće korišteni the most common gemstones on Earth (24 species of this mineral
crveni almandini.10 Mineraloška analiza kemijskih sastojaka na have been identified so far). Analyses show that red almandines
almandinima s predmeta ukrašenih kloazoniranjem iz mero- were most commonly used in the classical and early-medieval
vinškog kruga pokazuju da su almandini na predmetima iz 5. i 6. periods.10 Mineralogical analysis of chemical constituents on al-
stoljeća porijeklom iz Indije i Šri Lanke.11 Isti je rezultat dobiven mandines from objects decorated using the cloisonné technique
analizama napravljenim na almandinima sa slovenskih12 i mađar- from the Merovingian circle shows that almandines on objects
skih lokaliteta.13 Iz navedenog je moguće pretpostaviti kako su from the 5th and 6th centuries originated in India and Sri Lanka.11
almandini korišteni u ukrašavanju kopče iz Novog Čeminca istog The same result was obtained by analyses made on almandines
porijekla. from Slovenian12 and Hungarian sites.13 This information makes
it possible to assume that the almandines used to decorate the
buckle from Novi Čeminac are, in fact, of the same origin.

9 O klasifikaciji cloisonné tehnike i o razlici između real cloisonné i pseudo 9 For more about the classification of the cloisonné technique, and the
cloisonné, vidi Horváth 2012a, 207–242; 2013, 275–302. difference between real cloisonné and pseudo-cloisonné, see Horváth 2012a,
10 Adams 2011, 10. O distribuciji i ulozi almandina, vidi Arrhenius 2000, 214– 207–242; 2013, 275–302.
225 i Hamerow 2017, 71–84. 10 Adams 2011, 10. About the distribution and role of the almandines, see
11 Quast, Schüssler 2000, 75–96. Arrhenius 2000, 214–225 and Hamerow 2017, 71–84.

12 Pavlovič 2017, 71–76. 11 Quast, Schüssler 2000, 75–96.

13 Horváth 2013, 290–291. 12 Pavlovič 2017, 71–76.


13 Horváth 2013, 290–291.
184 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

Razmatranja o kopči Considerations about the buckle

Prilikom određivanja tipološko-kronoloških karakteristika kopče Several determinants were used when looking for hints for typo-
iz Novog Čeminca korišteno je nekoliko odrednica. Prije svega, to chronological determination of the buckle from Novi Čeminac.
su oblik kopče (ovalna pređica, pravokutni okov i četiri zakovice First of all, the shape of the buckle (oval buckle loop, rectangular
u svakom uglu okova), bazni materijal (željezo), sekundarni ma- fitting with four rivets in each corner), the base material (iron),
terijal (slitina srebra i slitina bakra) i ukras (tauširanje slitinom the secondary material (silver alloy and copper alloy) and the
bakra na pređici; okrugli, ravno rezani almandini na trnu i okovu; decoration (inlaying with copper alloy on the buckle loop; round,
okrugle ćelije od slitine bakra). flat-cut almandines on the thorn base and the fitting; round cop-
per-alloy sheets).
Svojim osnovnim oblikom, tj. pređicama izduženog ovalnog ili
ovalnog oblika i pravokutnog okova, mogu se povezati s kop- The basic shape, i.e. the elongated oval or oval-shaped buckle
čama kasnoantičkih vojnih pojasnih garnitura kakve nalazimo loop, and rectangular fitting, connects the buckle with other
na teritoriju nekadašnjih provincija Germanije I–II i Belgica II, a buckles of late-antique military belt sets the type of which are
pojedinačni su primjerci pronađeni i na području sjeverne Italije often discovered in the territory of the former provinces of
te „slobodne“ Germanije.14 Bazni materijal kasnoantičkih kopči Germany I–II and Belgium II, and individual examples have been
u većini je slučajeva bronca, odnosno slitina bakra, ali su zato found in northern Italy, and ‘free’ Germania.14 The base material
kasnorimski utjecaji prepoznati u obliku kopče (bez prikaza ži- of buckles from the period of Late Antiquity is, in most cases,
votinjskih glava na pređici), a potencijalno i ukrasu. Na okovima bronze, i.e. copper alloy, whereas late-Roman influences can
kasnoantičkih kopči često se nalazi obrub s kružnim i točkastim be recognized by looking at the shape of a buckle (without the
utiscima te obrub od kuglica koje imitiraju bisernu žicu.15 Ovaj je representation of animal heads on the loop), and potentially
ukras moguće prepoznati na kopči iz Novog Čeminca u okruglim in its decoration. The fittings of late-antique buckles often in-
ćelijama ispunjenim listićima od bakrene slitine (koje se nalaze clude a border with circular and dotted impressions, as well as
uz rub i između linija almandina). a border of beads that imitate pearl wire.15 This decoration can
be identified on the buckle from Novi Čeminac in copper-alloy
Po obliku, ali i baznom materijalu, najsličnija joj je kopča datira- sheets (located along the edge, and between the sequences of
na u kasno 5. i rano 6. stoljeće, pronađena na groblju Szolnok-Za- almandines).
gyva-part (ženski grob 16) u Mađarskoj. Riječ je o željeznoj kopči
nepravilne pređice, pravokutnog okova, ukrašenoj cloisonné teh- In terms of shape and base material, the most similar buckle
nikom na pređici i okovu (umetci nisu sačuvani). Ukrasno je polje was found in the Szolnok-Zagyva-part cemetery (female grave
napravljeno od lima bakrene slitine, u uglovima okova se nalaze 16) in Hungary, dating to the late 5th century and early 6th. It is
zakovice od bakrene slitine okrugle glave, a na poleđini su vidlji- an iron buckle of irregular buckle loop and rectangular fitting,
vi ostaci mineralizirane tkanine.16 Slična je kopča pronađena na and decorated using cloisonné technique on the loop and fitting.
nekropoli Madrona u Španjolskoj (grob 24).17 Kopča iz Komároma (Inserts are not preserved.) The decorative field is made of cop-
u Mađarskoj slična je oblikom, ali ne i po baznom materijalu – jer per-alloy foil, with rivets, made of copper alloy and with a round
je napravljena od zlata.18 Svakako, treba spomenuti kopču prona- head, located in the corners of the fitting, and visible remains
đenu na groblju u Globasnitzu (Hemmaberg, Austrija), gdje je u of mineralized fabric on the back.16 A similar buckle was found
grobu 11, otkrivenom 1999. godine, pokopan muškarac s vojnim at the Madrona cemetery in Spain (grave 24).17 The buckle from
pojasom, bez oružja.19 Masivna željezna kopča ukrašena je tauši- Komárom in Hungary is similar in shape, but not in base mate-
ranjem srebrom i mesingom na pređici i trnu (na bazi trna u obli- rial – because it is made of gold.18 Also worth mentioning is the
ku križa) te cloisonné tehnikom na četvrtastom okovu kopče, na buckle from the cemetery in Globasnitz (Hemmaberg, Austria),
čijem se kraju nalaze dvije nasuprotno postavljene ptičje glave where a man with a military belt, without a weapon, was buried
(orlovi). Autor u njemu prepoznaje vojnika, Ostrogota, arijanca.20 in grave 11, discovered in 1999.19 This iron buckle is massive, deco-
Pravokutni i četvrtasti okovi željezne osnove, ukrašeni tehnikom rated using inlaying of silver and brass on the loop and thorn (on
cloisonné sa zakovicama u 4 ugla okova prepoznaju se na kop- a thorn with a cross-shaped motif), and a cloisonné technique on
čama sa sljedećih nalazišta: Köln-Severinstor (Njemačka),21 Plie- a square fitting with two opposing bird heads (eagles) at the end.

14 Sommer 1984, 28–29. Radi se o kopčama Vrste 1, Oblika C, Tipa F, Var. 4 14 Sommer 1984, 28–29. This is about buckles of Type 1, shape C, variant 4
(Sorte 1, Form C, Typ F, Var. 4). Kopče se datiraju od sredine 4. do sredine 5. stolje- (Sorte 1, Form C, Typ F, Var. 4). The buckles are dated from the middle of the 4th
ća (Sommer 1984, 28–29; Swift 1999, 102–103, 109). century to the middle of the 5th (Sommer 1984, 28–29; Swift 1999, 102–103, 109).
15 Sommer 1984, 28–29; Swift 1999, 103, Var. 4b i 4c. 15 Sommer 1984, 28–29; Swift 1999, 103, Vars 4b and 4c.
16 Cseh 2005, Taf. 37: 3, 94: 2–4; Kovács et al. 2015, 29–30. kép. 16 Cseh 2005, Taf. 37: 3, 94: 2–4; Kovács et al. 2015, 29–30. kép.
17 Kazanski 1994, 151, Fig. 9: 9. Bez detaljnih opisa. 17 Kazanski 1994, 151, Fig. 9: 9. No detailed descriptions.
18 Hampel 1905, Taf. 40; Horváth 2012b, 4: 5. kép. 18 Hampel 1905, Taf. 40; Horváth 2012b, 4: 5. kép.
19 Pojasna garnitura sastojala se od željezne kopče, kloazoniranih okova i 19 The belt set consisted of an iron buckle, cloisonné decorated fittings,
torbice u kojoj su se nalazili kremeni (Glaser 2002; 2003; 2006). and a pouch which contained flints (Glaser 2002; 2003; 2006).
20 Glaser 2006, 96.
21 Werner 1958, Taf. 11: 1; Bierbrauer 1975, Taf. 86: 1.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 185

ning (Njemačka),22 Aquasanta (Italija),23 Tortona (Italija),24 Szentes These characteristics pointed the author towards recognizing
Berkhát (Mađarska),25 Petersfinger (Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo).26 Ovi the soldier as an Ostrogoth, an Arian.20 Rectangular and square
su primjeri predstavnici real cloisonné tehnike te, osim baznog iron-based fittings, decorated with the cloisonné technique
materijala i pravokutnog okova, nemaju drugu poveznicu s kop- with rivets in the four corners of the fittings, are recognized
čom iz Novog Čeminca. on the buckles from the following sites: Cologne-Severinstor
(Germany),21 Pliening (Germany),22 Aquasanta (Italy),23 Tortona
Pravokutni okovi pojasnih kopča, ukrašeni kloazoniranjem na (Italy),24 Szentes Berkhát (Hungary)25 and Petersfinger (United
području Republike Hrvatske, pronađeni su u Solinu i Žrnovni- Kingdom).26 These examples are representatives of the real cloi-
ci. Riječ je o kopčama izrađenim od slitine bakra, a pripisane su sonné technique, and – apart from the base material and rec-
germanskim populacijama i vežu se uz prisustvo Istočnih Gota tangular fittings – they do not have other similarities with the
u Dalmaciji.27 Od navedenih okova samo jedan iz Solina ima za- buckle from Novi Čeminac.
kovice u uglovima i umetak od almandina te bi prema tomu bio
najsličniji okovu iz Novog Čeminca.28 In Croatia, rectangular belt-buckle fittings decorated using cloi-
sonné have been found in Solin and Žrnovnica. These buckles are
Prema tipologiji bizantskih kopča Schulze-Dörrlamm,29 kopču iz made of copper alloy, attributed to Germanic populations, and
Novog Čeminca moguće je smjestiti u grupu C (kopče s kloazo- associated with the presence of the Eastern Goths in Dalmatia.27
niranim okovom), podgrupu C11 (kopče s ovalnom pređicom, tr- Of these fittings, only one from Solin has rivets in the corners
nom proširene baze i pravokutnim okovom), koje su rasprostra- and an almandine insert, so it would be the most similar to the
njene na širokom području Sredozemlja.30 Kopče, koje Schulze- fitting from Novi Čeminac.28
Dörrlamm navodi u svojoj tipologiji, izrađene su od slitine bakra i
pozlaćene te vrlo rijetke jer, kako navodi, kopče s trnom na čijem According to the Schulze-Dörrlamm typology of Byzantine
se kvadratičnom korijenu nalazi okrugli almandin vrlo su rijet- buckles,29 the buckle from Novi Čeminac can be placed within
ko izrađivane u Bizantskom Carstvu.31 Primjerci kopči s ovalnom group C (buckles with cloisonné decorated fittings), subgroup
pređicom i pravokutnim okovom, na čijem se kvadratičnom kori- C11 (buckles with oval loop, a thorn with an expanded base,
jenu trna nalazi okrugli almandin ili obojeno staklo, prepoznati and rectangular fittings), which are widespread throughout
su na grobljima Nový Šaldorf (južna Moravska),32 Vranje Sevnica the broader Mediterranean area.30 The buckles mentioned by
(grob 27)33 u Sloveniji, na grobljima Vicq (grob 756),34 Saint-Mar- Schulze-Dörrlamm in her typology are made of copper alloy,
tin-de-Fontenay (grob 741)35 i Cutry (Meurthe-et-Moselle, grob gilded, and very rare, because buckles with a thorn whose root
859)36 u Francuskoj, zatim na grobljima Duratón (grobovi 44537 i is square and holds a round almandine were, she states, very
526)38, El Carpio de Tajo (grob C39 i grob 204)40 i Cacera de las Ranas rarely made in the Byzantine Empire.31 Examples of buckles
(grob 7)41 u Španjolskoj. Na grobljima Francuske i Španjolske ri- with an oval loop and a rectangular fitting whose thorn’s root is

22 Giostra et al. 2008, 581, Fig. 7. 20 Glaser 2006, 96.


23 Werner 1958, Taf. 11: 2; Bierbrauer 1975, Taf. 3: 5; 1994, 179, Fig. 3: 41. g; Gio- 21 Werner 1958, Taf. 11: 1; Bierbrauer 1975, Taf. 86: 1.
stra et al. 2008, 581, Fig. 8. 22 Giostra et al. 2008, 581, Fig. 7.
24 Bierbrauer 1975, Taf. 45: 1–1a; Giostra et al. 2008, 577–596. 23 Werner 1958, Taf. 11: 2; Bierbrauer 1975, Taf. 3: 5; 1994, 179, Fig. 3: 41. g; Gio-
25 Csallány 1961, 87, Taf. 74:4. stra et al. 2008, 581, Fig. 8.
26 Menghin 1983, 195, Kat. br. 18: 6. 24 Bierbrauer 1975, Taf. 45: 1–1a; Giostra et al. 2008, 577–596.
27 Buškariol 1985, 83–94, sl. 1: a–b, d. 25 Csallány 1961, 87, Taf. 74: 4.
28 Buškariol 1985, sl. 1: b. 26 Menghin 1983, 195, cat. no. 18: 6.
29 Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009. 27 Buškariol 1985, 83–94, sl. 1: a–b, d.
30 Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009, 110–113. Tip se bazira na brončanoj kopči s po- 28 Buškariol 1985, sl. 1: b.
zlatom iz Sirije, koja se čuva u Römisch-Germanischen Zentralmuseumu u Ma- 29 Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009.
inzu, na čijem se pravokutnom okovu nalaze ravno rezani almandini, a okov je
na kožni remen bio pričvršćen zakovicama koje se nalaze u uglovima okova. 30 Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009, 110–113. The type is based on a bronze buckle
(Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009, 111, No. 92, Taf. 2: 6; 2011, 278–279, III. 2. 2.) with gilding from Syria, currently kept in the Römisch-Germanischen Zentral-
museum in Mainz, on which square fittings hold flat-cut almandines, and the
31 Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009, 111. fitting was fastened to the leather belt using rivets placed in the corners of the
32 Červinka 1937, obr. 29; Werner 1962, Taf. 57: 9; Tejral 1982, T. 24: 12. fitting (Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009, 111, no. 92, Taf. 2: 6; 2011, 278–279, III. 2. 2).
33 Petru, Ulbert 1975, 114, sl. 44: a. 31 Schulze-Dörrlamm 2009, 111.
34 Ripoll López 1994b, 324–325, cat. no. 4. 14, Fig. 4.41: c; Kazanski, Perin 2009,
153, Fig. 4: 3.
35 Kazanski, Périn 2009, 155, Fig. 6: 3.
36 Kazanski, Périn 2009, 157, Fig. 8: 2. Autori smatraju navedene kopče s fran-
cuskih nekropola vizigotskim importom u Galiju.
37 Ripoll López 1994b, 313–314, cat. no. 4. 3., Fig. 4. 19: h.
38 Ripoll López 1994b, 314–315, cat. no. 4. 3., Fig. 4. 20: j.
39 Ripoll 1985, 70, Fig. 10, 214, lám. 2; Ripoll López 1994a, 204, Fig. 5: C. 1.
40 Ripoll 1985, 145, Fig. 53; Ripoll López 1994a, 225, Fig. 19: 204. 1.
41 Eger 2005, 167.
186 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

ječ je o brončanim kopčama s pozlatom, koje pripadaju ženskim square and holds a round almandine or coloured glass have been
grobovima, a čiji trn završava u obliku stilizirane životinjske gla- identified in Nový Šaldorf (South Moravia)32 and Vranje Sevnica
ve. Osim almandina ili stakla na korijenu trna, kopče iz potonjih (grave 27)33 in Slovenia, in the cemeteries of Vicq (grave 756),34
groblja ukrašene su tehnikom cloisonné, koristeći ravno rezane Martin-de-Fontenay (grave 741)35 and Cutry (Meurthe-et-Moselle,
almandine i/ili staklo na četvrtastim okovima. Okrugli umetak na grave 859)36 in France, then in the cemeteries of Duratón (graves
bazi trna željezne kopče (bez okova) pronađen je u Budimpešti 44537 and 526),38 El Carpio de Tajo (grave C39 and grave 204)40 and
(Budapest-Zugló, grob 9).42 Okrugli je uložak napravljen od stakla, Cacera de las Ranas (grave 7)41 in Spain. The cemeteries of France
ali bojom imitira almandin. Osim na bazi trna, okrugli umetci, and Spain include gilded bronze buckles belonging to women’s
koji se nalaze u ćelijama od zlatne folije, nalaze se i po pređici graves, with the thorn ending in the shape of a stylized animal
(četiri umetka). Autorica ovu kopču s umecima od stakla datira u head. Besides the almandines or glass on the root of the thorn,
5. stoljeće.43 Bez poznatog lokaliteta je pređica s trnom na čijoj se the buckles from the above-mentioned cemeteries are decorat-
bazi nalazi okrugli almandin, ali je izrađena od bronce. 44 ed with cloisonné technique, and place flat-cut almandines and/
or glass on square fittings. A round insert on the thorn of an iron
Ukras okruglih almandina u nizu na kopči iz Novog Čeminca pri- buckle (without the fittings) was found in Budapest (Budapest-
sutan je u obliku posebnog načina ukrašavanja na okovima kori- Zugló, grave 9).42 The round insert is made of glass, but imitates
ca spatha iz poznatih ratničkih grobova ovog razdoblja. Na kori- almandine in colour. Besides on the base of the thorn, round
cama spathe, pronađene 1901. godine u Gütlingenu u Njemačkoj, inserts, placed within the cells and made of gold foil, are also
na paru okova držača pojasa izrađenih od željeza, nalazi se ukras found on the buckle loop (four inserts). The author dates this
od pozlaćene bronce i niz od po sedam okruglih, ravno rezanih buckle with glass inserts to the 5th century.43 An unknown site
almandina.45 Sličan je niz pronađen i na okovu donjeg dijela ko- has produced a bronze buckle loop with a thorn whose base
rica mača kneza iz Blučine u Češkoj; na podlozi od pozlaćenog holds a round almandine, although it is made of bronze.44
srebra osam je okruglih, ravno rezanih almandina.46 Isti je takav
način ukrašavanja primijećen i na paru lučnih fibula pronađenih The linear decoration of round almandines on the buckle from
u Rosaryju u Francuskoj.47 Novi Čeminac can be found, as a special manner of decorating,
on the spatha scabbard fittings from the famous warrior graves
Tehnika tauširanja na pređici poznat je način ukrašavanja prisu- of this period. A pair of iron fittings of a spatha belt with a gilded
tan u ovomu razdoblju i često korišten u procesu ukrašavanja po- bronze ornament and a sequence of seven round, flat-cut al-
jasnih garnitura. Najčešće korišten materijal prilikom tauširanja mandines was found in 1901 in Gütlingen, Germany.45 A similar
je slitina srebra, odnosno srebrna žica koja se umeće u željeznu sequence was found on the chape fitting of the sword belonging
ili brončanu bazu. Tauširanje bakrenom slitinom nije bilo popu- to a warrior from Blučina in the Czech Republic; eight round, flat-
larno, na što ukazuje manjak takvih primjera u dostupnoj litera- cut almandines were placed on a gilded silver base.46 The same
turi. Stoga, važno je spomenuti primjere poput kopče iz Globa- manner of decorating is observed on a pair of arched fibulae
snitza, na kojoj je masivna željezna pređica tauširana srebrom i found in Rosary, France.47
mesingom, ili kopče iz Tortone kod koje je četvrtasta pređica (ali i
okov kopče), uz tauširanje bakrenom slitinom, dodatno ukrašena The inlaying technique on the buckle loop is a well-known way of
kloazoniranjem.48 Tauširanje bakrenom slitinom navodi i Werner, decorating, characteristic of this period, and often used to deco-
opisujući željezne kopče na franačkom području u periodu oko rate belt sets. The most frequently-used material in inlaying is a

42 Nagy 2010, 143, Fig. 5. 3 (left): 9, Fig. 5. 3 (right): 1–1a, 166, Fig. 5. 12: 6. 32 Červinka 1937, obr. 29; Werner 1962, Taf. 57: 9; Tejral 1982, T. 24: 12.
43 Nagy 2010, 165–170. 33 Petru, Ulbert 1975, 114, sl. 44: a.
44 Quast 1996, Abb. 6. 34 Ripoll López 1994b, 324–325, cat. no. 4. 14, Fig. 4.41: c; Kazanski, Perin 2009,
45 Kokkotidis 2008, 318–319; Menghin 1983,186–187, Kat. br. 7: 1c. 153, Fig. 4: 3.

46 Tejral 1982, T. 12: 4; Menghin 1983, 183–184, Kat. br. 3: 1g; Schmauder 2002, 35 Kazanski, Périn 2009, 155, Fig. 6: 3.
Taf. 38 36 Kazanski, Périn 2009, 157, Fig. 8: 2. The authors consider the buckles from
47 Vallet 2000, 20–22, Fig. 3. 9. Autorica ih određuje kao franački materijal i French cemeteries a Visigothic import into Gallia.
datira u prvu polovinu 6. stoljeća. Danas se nalaze u zbirci Metropolitan Muse- 37 Ripoll López 1994b, 313–314, cat. no. 4. 3, Fig. 4.19: h.
um of Art u New Yorku. 38 Ripoll López 1994b, 314–315, cat. no. 4. 3, Fig. 4.20: j.
48 Giostra et al. 2008, 577, Fig. 5. 39 Ripoll 1985, 70, Fig. 10, 214, lám. 2; Ripoll López 1994a, 204, Fig. 5: C. 1.
40 Ripoll 1985, 145, Fig. 53; Ripoll López 1994a, 225, Fig. 19: 204. 1.
41 Eger 2005, 167.
42 Nagy 2010, 143, Fig. 5. 3 (left): 9, Fig. 5. 3 (right): 1–1a, 166, Fig. 5. 12: 6.
43 Nagy 2010, 165–170.
44 Quast 1996, 337, Abb. 6.
45 Kokkotidis 2008, 318–319; Menghin 1983, 186–187, cat. no. 7: 1c.
46 Tejral 1982, T. 12: 4; Menghin 1983, 183–184, cat. no. 3: 1g; Schmauder 2002,
Taf. 38.
47 Vallet 2000, 20–22, Fig. 3. 9. The author designates them as Frankish mate-
rial, and dates them to the first half of the 6th century. Today they are kept in the
collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 187

500. godine, za koje navodi da su kloazonirane i često tauširane silver alloy, i.e. a silver wire that is inserted into an iron or bronze
slitinom bakra po rubovima okova.49 base. Using a copper alloy for inlaying was not popular, as indi-
cated by the lack of such examples in the available bibliography.
Kopča iz Novog Čeminca nema neposredne paralele, a prema ti- Therefore, it is important to mention other examples, such as
pološkim i stilskim karakteristikama može biti smještena u krug the buckle from Globasnitz, where the solid iron buckle loop is
mediteranskih kopči druge polovine 5. i početka 6. stoljeća, među inlaid with silver and brass, or the buckle from Tortona, where
primjercima koji se, osim na Mediteranu, nalaze na području cije- the square buckle loop (and also the buckle fitting) is decorated
le Europe, odnosno u materijalnoj kulturi germanskih populacija not only by inlaying with copper alloy, but also using cloisonné.48
u Europi. Prema dosadašnjim saznanjima i stanju istraženosti, Inlaying with a copper alloy is also cited by Werner, who de-
kopče mediteranskog tipa ukrašene kloazoniranjem (one pro- scribes iron buckles from the Frankish area around 500. He states
nađene unutar konteksta), vezane su uz grobove ratnika kao dio that they were decorated using cloisonné technique, and often
njihove opreme.50 inlaid along the edges of the buckle fitting with a copper alloy.49

The buckle from Novi Čeminac has no direct parallels, and can
be placed, according to typological and stylistic characteristics,
in the circle of Mediterranean buckles of the second half of the
5th century and the beginning of the 6th, among those specimens
which are found, not only in the Mediterranean, but all over
Europe: that is, in the material culture of the European Germanic
populations. According to current knowledge and the present
state of research, buckles of Mediterranean type decorated us-
ing cloisonné (those found within the context) are connected
with warriors’ graves as part of their equipment.50

Ostaci tkanine i kože51 Remains of textile and leather51

Tijekom sveobuhvatnog konzervatorsko-resturatorskog zahvata Mineralized remains of textile from the back of the buckle, and
utvrđeni su mineralizirani ostaci tkanine na stražnjoj strani kop- remains of a leather belt inside the buckle fittings, were found
če i ostaci kožnog pojasa unutar okova kopče. Budući da je riječ during the comprehensive conservation and restoration work.
o nalazu iz ranoga srednjeg vijeka, treba imati na umu da je ovo Since the find belongs to the period of the early Middle Ages,
izniman nalaz budući da se tkanina sve do 20. stoljeća proizvo- it should be borne in mind that it is an exceptional find, since
dila od prirodnih vlakana, biljnih i životinjskih, a u iznimnim je textiles were, until the 20th century, produced from natural fi-
slučajevima mineralnog podrijetla.52 U arheološkom kontekstu, bres of plant and animal – and, in exceptional cases, of mineral
u ovom slučaju kao i u Europi, ostaci su tkanine rijedak nalaz – origin.52 In an archaeological context, in this case as well as in
upravo iz razloga što je ona od pretpovijesnih vremena izrađiva- Europe, such textile remains are a rare find precisely because
na od propadljivog materijala. Tekstil u užem smislu riječi ozna- they have been made of perishable material. The term ‘textile’, in
čava plošni proizvod izrađen tkanjem, odnosno ispreplitanjem the narrower sense of the word, refers to a flat product made by
dvaju sustava niti ili pređe pod pravim kutom (sl. 7), no u širem weaving, or intertwining of two thread systems at right angles
smislu odnosi se na sve strukture izrađene predenjem, plete- (Fig. 7), but in a broader sense it refers to all structures made by
njem, filcanjem, kukičanjem, ali i mreže te košaraštvo.53 Termi- spinning, knitting, felting or crocheting, and also strings, ropes,
nom „arheološki tekstil“ definiran je svaki fragment tekstila pro- nets or basketry.53 The term ‘archaeological textile’ defines any
nađen tijekom arheološkog istraživanja,54 a može biti pronađen fragment of textile found during archaeological research,54 and
u izvornom ili fragmentiranom stanju, u mineraliziranom obliku refers to a fragment found in its original or fragmented state, in
(pseudomorf), ili kao otisak u materijalu poput gline ili žbuke.55 mineralized form (pseudomorph), or as an imprint in a material
Ako je arheološki tekstil iznimno očuvan u posebnim uvjetima (u such as clay or plaster.55 If archaeological textile is preserved in
sušnim uvjetima, potopljen u vodi, zaleđen, karboniziran ili oču- exceptional cases by special conditions (such as dry conditions,
van korozijom metala) te ovisno o stupnju očuvanosti, na njemu being submerged in water, frozen, carbonized, or preserved by

49 Werner 1966, 287. 48 Giostra et al. 2008, 577, Fig. 5.


50 Horváth et al. 2009. 49 Werner 1966, 287.
51 Autorice zahvaljuju dr. sc. Margariti Gleba na pomoći i savjetima u otkri- 50 Horváth et al. 2009.
vanju tajni ostataka tekstila na kopči, temi ovoga rada. 51 The authors thank Margarita Gleba, PhD, for help and advice in revealing
52 Grömer 2016, 41. the secrets of the textile remnants on the buckle, the topic of this paper.
53 Cybulska, Maik 2007, 185. 52 Grömer 2016, 41.
54 Cybulska, Maik 2007, 185. 53 Cybulska, Maik 2007, 185.
55 Jemo 2020, 81. 54 Cybulska, Maik 2007, 185.
55 Jemo 2020, 81.
188 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

je moguće provesti niz fizičkih, kemijskih i biokemijskih analiza metal corrosion), then – depending on the degree of preserva-
s ciljem otkrivanja starosti predmeta, porijekla vlakana, ali i teh- tion – it is possible to perform a series of physical, chemical and
nike izrade pređe i same tkanine, kao i prisutnost i identifikaciju biochemical analyses to detect the age of the object, the origin
bojila i slično.56 of the fibres, and also the techniques used in producing the yarn
and the fabric itself, as well as the presence and identification of
U slučaju nalaza iz Novog Čeminca, riječ je o djelomično minera- dyes and the like.56
liziranoj tkanini čija je morfologija očuvana zahvaljujući koroziji
željeza od kojeg je izrađena donja pločica okova kopče uz koji se In the case of the find from Novi Čeminac, it is a partially mineral-
sama tkanina nalazila prilikom depozicije. Mineralizacija tkani- ized textile whose morphology has been preserved thanks to the
ne je proces u kojemu u međusobnoj interakciji sudjeluju proces iron corrosion from the iron material of which the lower plate
propadanja organskih vlakana i proces korozije metala. Prilikom of the buckle fitting was made, alongside which the fabric itself
mineralizacije ioni korodirajućeg metala postupno zamjenjuju was located during deposition. Fabric mineralization is a process
organska vlakna od kojih je izrađena tkanina ili obavijaju njiho- in which the process of decay of organic fibres and the process
vu površinu, štiteći ih od djelovanja mikroorganizama,57 stvara- of corrosion of metals participate in mutual interaction. During
jući pritom negativne otiske ili pozitivne mineralizirane oblike.58 mineralization, corrosive metal ions gradually replace the organ-
Negativni otisci (otisak vanjske površine tkanine, niti ili vlakana) ic fibres from which the fabric is made, or envelop their surface,
stvaraju se u slučaju kad se minerali metala formiraju na površi- protecting them from the activities of micro-organisms,57 creat-
ni organskih vlakana i očuvaju njihov površinski oblik kao nega- ing negative imprints or positive mineralized forms.58 Negative
tiv u koroziji nakon degradacije same organske tvari.59 S druge impressions (imprint of the outer surface of the fabric, thread
strane, kod pozitivnih tvorevina, minerali metala i dalje ulaze u or fibre) are created when metal minerals form on the surface
strukturu vlakana i zamjenjuju organske tvari koje istovremeno of organic fibres, and preserve their surface shape as a negative
postupno propadaju, stvarajući djelomično ili potpuno minerali- in the corrosion after the degradation of the organic matter it-
ziranu strukturu.60 Takvu, potpuno mineraliziranu tkaninu, često self.59 In positive formations, on the other hand, metal minerals
nazivamo pseudomorfom, no pravi su pseudomorfi iznimke bu- continue to enter the fibre structure, and replace organic mat-
dući da iznimno rijetko dolazi do potpune mineralizacije.61 Opće- ter that gradually decays at the same time, creating a partially or
nito, kod mineraliziranih ostataka tekstila moguće je u idealnim completely mineralized structure.60 Such a fully mineralized tex-
uvjetima dobiti informacije o vrsti tkanja i ostalim tehničkim tile is often called a pseudomorph, although true pseudomorphs
podacima o tkanini (sl. 8), kao što su njezina gustoća, promjer te are extremely rare, as complete mineralization is highly uncom-
smjer i kut uvoja pređe, ali i o različitim šavovima, greškama u mon.61 In general, with mineralized textile residues it is possible
tkanju, različitim bojilima, a čak i o vrsti sirovinskog materijala to obtain information on the type of weave, and other technical
vlakana.62 Osim navedenog, ako na određenome metalnom pred- data on the textile (Fig. 8), such as its density, thread diameter
metu postoji više slojeva sačuvanoga organskog materijala, važ- and thread twist direction and angle, but also on various seams,
no ih je razabrati i identificirati, ukoliko je to moguće s obzirom weaving errors, various dyes, and even the type of the fibre’s raw
na stupanj očuvanosti. Analizom mikrostratigrafske situacije material.62 In addition to the above, if there are several layers of
moguće je uvidjeti postoji li više slojeva tkanine, krzna ili kože preserved organic material on a particular metal object, it is im-
jedan na drugome, što je pak moguće iskoristiti u interpretaciji i portant to understand and identify them, if that is possible given
rekonstrukciji funkcije očuvanih organskih predmeta.63 Tehnička the degree of preservation. By analysing the microstratigraphic
analiza i mjerenja na očuvanoj arheološkoj tkanini s kopče obav- situation, it is possible to see whether there are several layers of
ljeni su digitalnim mikroskopom DinoLite. Primjenom mikrosko- fabric, fur or skin on top of each other, which can, in turn, be used
pa dokumentirana su dva moguća organska sloja, tj. dva različita in the interpretation and reconstruction of the function of pre-
sloja tkanine ili sloj tkanine i krzna, a osim toga, dokumentirana served organic objects.63 Technical analysis and measurements
je i sama struktura i gustoća tkanja te je izmjeren promjer (fino- on the preserved archaeological fabric from the buckle were per-
ća) niti i vlakana, kao smjer i kut uvoja pređe. Dodatne analize formed with a DinoLite digital microscope. Two possible organic
vlakana u budućim stadijima istraživanja uz pomoć SEM-a mogle layers were documented using the microscope, i.e. two different
bi pokazati vrstu sirovinskog materijala od koje je izrađen ovaj layers of fabric, or a layer of fabric and fur. In addition, the struc-
tekstilni predmet. ture and density of the weave were documented and the diam-
eter (fineness) of threads and fibres was measured, as well as
the yarn twist direction and angle. Additional analyses of fibres
could, in future stages of research with the help of SEM, show
the type of raw material from which this textile item is made.

56 Jones et al. 2007. 56 Jones et al. 2007.


57 Chen, Jakes, Foreman 1998, 1016. 57 Chen, Jakes, Foreman 1998, 1016.
58 Gillard et al. 1994, 133. 58 Gillard et al. 1994, 133.
59 Kite, Thomson 2006, 257. 59 Kite, Thomson 2006, 257.
60 Chen, Jakes, Foreman 1998, 1016. 60 Chen, Jakes, Foreman 1998, 1016.
61 Gillard et al. 1994, 138. 61 Gillard et al. 1994, 138.
62 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 56. 62 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 56.
63 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015; Grömer, Tolar, Kostajnšek 2017. 63 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015; Grömer, Tolar, Kostajnšek 2017.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 189

SliKa 7. Shematski prikaz osnovnih


dijelova tkanine s tehničkom termi-
nologijom (Grömer, Bender Jørgensen
2012, 55, Fig. 8).
Figure 7. Schematic display of funda-
mental parts of the fabric with tech-
nical terminology (Grömer, Bender
Jørgensen 2012, 55, Fig. 8).

SliKa 8. Prikaz tehničkih karakteri-


stika tkanine: uvoj niti, debljina niti
te različite vrste vezova (Gleba 2017,
1208, Fig. 1).
Figure 8. Display of technical charac-
teristics of the fabric: thread twist,
thread thickness, and various types
of weave (Gleba 2017, 1208, Fig. 1).

Rezultati Results

Prilikom konzervacije kopče uočeni su mineralizirani ostaci tka- During the conservation of the buckle, mineralized remnants of
nine (sl. 9) u različitim stupnjevima očuvanosti, i to na vanjskoj fabric in various degrees of preservation (Fig. 9) were observed
strani uz stražnju željeznu pločicu okova koja trenutno nije vid- on the back surface of the object, by the rear iron plate of the
ljiva jer je prekrivena spomenutim ostacima tkanine. Uz to, uo- fitting, which is not currently visible because it is covered by the
čeni su i ostaci mineralizirane kože praškaste strukture koja se remnants of the mineralized textile. Also, the remains of min-
nalazi između pločica okova kopče.64 S obzirom na mjesto prona- eralized leather of a powdery structure were observed, located
laska, moguće je pretpostaviti da očuvana tkanina na stražnjoj between the plates of the buckle’s fitting.64 Since the buckle was
strani kopče predstavlja dio odjeće pokojnika pričvršćene poja- found in situ above the pelvis of the deceased, and partly below
som. Gotovo sa sigurnošću je moguće ustvrditi kako nije riječ o the sword that probably hung on that same belt, it is possible

64 Latinović, 2016, 54. 64 Latinović, 2016, 54.


190 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

SliKa 9. Detalj prepleta niti minera-


lizirane tkanine na kopči iz groba 5,
uvećanje 50× (snimila J. Fileš Kram-
berger).
Figure 9. A detail of intertwined
threads within the mineralized
fabric on the buckle from grave 5,
magnification 50× (photo by J. Fileš
Kramberger).

mrtvačkom pokrovu65 jer na prednjoj strani kopče nisu pronađe- to assume that the preserved fabric on the back of the buckle is
ni očuvani ostatci tkanine. Golim je okom preplet niti vrlo teško part of the deceased’s garment, fastened with a belt. It is almost
uočljiv iako se na određenim i najbolje očuvanim dijelovima vidi certain that the preserved fabric is not a shroud,65 because no
određena pravilnost strukture tipične za tkaninu.66 Digitalnim je fabric remains have been found on the front side of the buckle.
mikroskopom bilo moguće razabrati tkaninu kepernog tkanja The interweaving of threads is very difficult to see with the na-
s kosim linijama koje stvaraju vezne točke dvaju sustava niti. ked eye, although certain regularities of the structure typical
Upravo ova vrsta veza vidljiva je, nažalost, samo na donjem di- of textile can be seen on certain parts, those best preserved.66
jelu očuvanog fragmenta i na maloj površini u gornjem desno- Examination of the fabric using a digital microscope showed a
me predjelu fragmenta, očuvanom uz desni stražnji dio pređice twill fabric with diagonal lines created by connecting points of
kopče. Nije očuvana dovoljno velika površina tkanine potrebna the two systems of threads. This precise type of weave is, un-
za sigurno utvrđivanje varijante korištenog kepera. Ipak, na di- fortunately, visible only on the lower part of the preserved frag-
jelovima tkanine na kojima su vidljive niti obaju sustava one ment, and on a small area in the upper-right part of the fragment,
ukazuju na 2/1 keper u kojemu niti jednog sustava prelaze preko preserved along the right rear part of the frame. It was impossi-
dvije, a zatim ispod jedne niti drugog sustava u ponavljajućem ble to safely determine the variant of twill used on such a small
obrascu, stvarajući fini rebrasti izgled.67 Keper ili keperno tkanje sample of fabric recovered. However, on the parts of the fabric
je, uz platneno i atlasno, jedna od 3 temeljne vrste tkanja.68 Kod where the threads of both systems are visible, they indicate a
kepera (sl. 10: 2–4) vezni bodovi na tkanini stvaraju kose redove 2/1 twill in which the threads of one system cross over two and
zato što su niti osnove (okomite niti) isprepletene potkinom niti below one thread of the second system in a repetitive pattern,
(vodoravna nit) u određenom obrascu gdje se potkina nit provla- creating a fine ribbed appearance.67 Twill or twill weave is, along
či ispod i iznad po dvije ili više niti osnove, s pomakom u svakom with tabby and satin, one of the three basic types of weave.68 In
sljedećem redu.69 Nasuprot keperu, platneni je vez nešto jedno- twill (Fig. 10: 2–4) the binding points in the fabric create diago-
stavniji. U njemu se potkina nit provlači ispod i iznad svake dru- nal rows, because the warp threads (vertical threads) are inter-
ge osnovne niti s jednakom izmjenom u svakom sljedećem redu, twined with the weft threads (horizontal threads) in a certain
stvarajući tako gusti, jednolični, mrežasti izgled tkanine (sl. 10: pattern where the weft thread is pulled below and above two
1).70 Oba su navedena veza prisutna u Europi od pretpovijesnih or more warp threads, with a shift in each subsequent row.69 In

65 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 68. 65 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 68.
66 Dimenzije fragmenta tkanine iznose sveukupno oko 47 x 43 mm, dok širi- 66 The dimensions of the piece of fabric are 47 × 43 mm, while the best-pre-
na najbolje očuvanog dijela, koji se nalazi na pločici okova, iznosi oko 47 mm, a served part on the plate fitting is 47 mm wide and 18 mm high.
visina oko 18 mm. 67 Priest-Dorman 2000; Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 136.
67 Priest-Dorman 2000; Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012; 136. 68 Andersson 2008, 76.
68 Andersson 2008, 76. 69 Gleba 2017, 1210.
69 Gleba 2017, 1210.
70 Gleba 2017, 1208.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 191

SliKa 10. Shematski prikazi vrsta tkanja: 1. platneno tkanje; 2. 2/2 keperno tka- SliKa 11. Prikaz tkanine kepernog veza s mogućim cik-cak uzorkom. Slabo vid-
nje; 2. a. 2/2 ševronski ili cik-cak keper; 3. 2/1 keperno tkanje; 3. a. 2/1 ševronski ljive promjene smjera rebara cik-cak kepernog tkanja označene su strelicama
ili cik-cak keper; 4. 1/2 keperno tkanje; 4. a. 1/2 ševronski ili cik-cak keper (izradi- na fotografiji (snimio I. Krajcar; obradila J. Fileš Kramberger).
la J. Fileš Kramberger, prema Brandenburgh 2010, Fig. 7). Figure 11. Display of the twill-weave cloth with a possible zig-zag pattern.
Figure 10. Schematic display of weave types: 1. tabby weave; 2. 2/2 twill weave; Faintly visible changes of rib direction of the zig-zag twill weave are marked
2. a. 2/2 chevron twill weave; 3. 2/1 twill weave; 3. a. 2/1 chevron twill weave; 4. with arrows (photo by I. Krajcar; adapted by J. Fileš Kramberger).
1/2 twill weave; 4. a. 1/2 chevron twill weave (made by J. Fileš Kramberger, after
Brandenburgh 2010, Fig. 7).

razdoblja,71 dok se atlasni pojavljuje tek u svilenim tkanjima 13. contrast to twill, the tabby weave is somewhat simpler. In it, the
stoljeća.72 weft thread is pulled under and above every other warp thread
with an equal change in each subsequent row, thus creating a
Gledajući tkaninu izdaleka, vidljiva je i promjena smjera rebara dense, uniform, reticulate appearance of the fabric (Fig. 10: 1).70
(sl. 11), što ukazuje na mogući cik-cak ili ševron uzorak kepera (sl. Both weaves mentioned have been present in Europe since pre-
10: 2a, 3a, 4a),73 no zbog slabe očuvanosti i odsjaja rasvjete mikro- historic periods,71 while the satin weave appears in 13th-century
skopa, teško je na većem povećanju uočiti točnu izvedbu tkanja. silk weaving.72
Osim toga, češće i bolje su vidljive niti jednog sustava, dok se niti
drugog sustava vrlo rijetko proziru. Ovo može upućivati na vrstu When the fabric is observed from a distance, a change in the di-
kepera s osnovinim ili potkinim licem,74 u kojemu, zbog gušće rection of the ribbing is also visible (Fig. 11), which indicates a
poredanih niti jednog sustava, nisu (ili vrlo rijetko) vidljive niti possible zig-zag or chevron twill pattern (Fig. 10: 2a, 3a, 4a);73 but,
drugog sustava. Shematski prikazi sličnih primjera, ali platnenog due to poor preservation and the glare from the microscope’s
tkanja s osnovinim ili potkinim licem (warp- ili weft-faced tabby) lighting, it is difficult to notice, at higher magnification, exactly
vidljivi su na slici 8. Na mineraliziranom fragmentu tkanine nig- how the weave was made. In addition, the threads of one sys-
dje nisu vidljivi početni ili završni rubovi tkanine, kao ni bočni tem are more often and better visible, while the threads of the
rub, što onemogućuje pouzdano razlikovanje osnove od potke other system are very rarely visible. This may indicate a type of
na ovom fragmentu. Stoga, u tekstu se ova dva sustava nazivaju warp- or weft-faced74 twill, in which the threads of the second
sustav 1 i sustav 2. Promjer pređe sustava 1 kretao se u rasponu system are not visible (or rarely visible) due to densely-stacked
od 0,3 do 0,55 mm, rijetko dosežući promjer i do 0,2 mm. Pređe threads of the first system. Schematic representations of simi-
sustava 2 bile su teže uočljive, ali na pojedinim je mjestima bilo lar examples, and also of warp- or weft-faced tabby, are visible
moguće izmjeriti njihov promjer koji je iznosio između 0,4 i 0,6 in Figure 8. The mineralized fragment of fabric did not show the
mm. Upravo razlika u finoći (debljini) niti ovih dvaju sustava starting or ending borders of the fabric, nor the selvedges, which
omogućuje njihovu moguću identifikaciju, odnosno razlikovanje, prevents reliable distinguishing of the warp from the weft on

71 Gleba 2008; Belanová-Štolcova, Grömer 2010, 15–16; 2016; Gleba 2017. 70 Gleba 2017, 1208.
72 Březinová, Bravermanová, Bureš Víchová 2019, 19. 71 Gleba 2008; Belanová-Štolcova, Grömer 2010, 15–16; 2016; Gleba 2017.
73 Grömer 2016, 459. 72 Březinová, Bravermanová, Bureš Víchová 2019, 19.
74 Grömer 2016, 127. 73 Grömer 2016, 459.
74 Grömer 2016, 127.
192 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

SliKa 12. Prikaz pojedinih mjesta


na tkanini s izmjerenim promje-
rom niti. Uvećanje 50× (snimio I.
Krajcar; snimila i obradila J. Fileš
Kramberger).
Figure 12. Certain areas on the
fabric with measured thread
diameter. Magnification 50×
(photo by I. Krajcar; photo and
adapted by J. Fileš Kramberger).

budući da su za osnovu češće korištene deblje niti od onih kori- this fragment. Therefore, in the article, these two thread systems
štenih za potku (sl. 12). Ipak, budući da je riječ o malom ulomku are called system 1 and system 2. The yarn diameter of system 1
tekstila, teško je govoriti o pravilnostima temeljenim na malom ranged from 0.3 to 0.55 mm, rarely reaching a fine diameter of up
broju mjerenja. Pređa korištena u sustavu 1 predena je ili u smje- to 0.2 mm. The threads of system 2 were more difficult to notice,
ru kazaljke na satu (označeno slovom Z) ili u suprotnom smjeru but in some places it was possible to measure their diameter,
(označeno slovom S), od kojih je potonji mnogo rjeđi. Izmjena which was between 0.4 and 0.6 mm. It is the difference in the fine-
pređe različitog smjera uvoja u određenim intervalima možda ness (thickness) of the threads of these two systems that enables
je korištena radi postizanja posebnog efekta (engl. spin pattern) their possible identification, i.e. differentiation, since thicker
koji je temeljen upravo na različitom odrazu svjetlosti kod pređa threads are more often used for the warp than for the weft (Fig.
predenih u suprotnim smjerovima.75 Kut uvoja u većini niti susta- 12). However, since it is a small piece of textile, it is difficult to
va 1 iznosio je između 33 i 45 stupnjeva. Ovaj podatak govori o talk about regularities on the basis of such a small number of
čvrstoći predenja, a odnosi se na kut koji zatvaraju uvijena vla- measurements. The yarn used in system 1 is spun either clock-
kna i smjer same pređe.76 Niti sustava 2 slabije su vidljive pa je i wise (denoted by the letter Z) or anticlockwise (denoted by the
određivanje kuta uvoja bilo mnogo teže, no unatoč tomu smjer letter S), the latter being much rarer. Combining yarns with dif-
na većini određen je kao smjer S, odnosno suprotan od smjera ka- ferent twist directions at certain intervals may have been used
zaljke na satu. Ove podatke treba uzeti s oprezom jer su moguć to achieve a special effect (spin pattern) based upon the differ-
odraz slabe očuvanosti fragmenta (sl. 13). ent reflection of light within yarns spun in opposite directions.75
The twist angle of the majority of threads belonging to system
Gustoća i finoća tkanine izražava se u broju niti po kvadratnom 1 was between 33 and 45 degrees. This data speaks of the firm-
centimetru, odnosno broju niti osnove ili potke po centimetru.77 ness of spinning, and refers to the angle enclosed by the twisted
Gustoća sustava 1 (moguće potka) iznosi oko 18 – 20 niti po cen- fibres and the direction of the yarn itself.76 The threads of system

75 Grömer 2016, 171. 75 Grömer 2016, 171.


76 Kania 2017. 76 Kania 2017.
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SliKa 13. Prikaz pojedinih mjesta


na tkanini s označenim smjerom
uvoja niti. Plavom su bojom
označeni smjerovi uvoja susta-
va 1, a crvenom smjerovi uvoja
sustava 2. Primjećuje se da se u
sustavu 1 pojavljuju pređe ispre-
dene u oba smjera (Z i S), dok u
sustavu 2 prevladava smjer su-
protan od kazaljke na satu (S).
Uvećanje 50× (snimio I. Krajcar;
snimila i obradila J. Fileš Kram-
berger).
Figure 13. Display of certain
areas on the fabric with de-
noted direction of thread twist.
Directions of twist belonging to
system 1 are noted in blue, and
directions of twist belonging to
system 2 in red. It can be noticed
that system 1 includes yarn wo-
ven in both directions (Z and S),
while the predominant direction
of system 2 is the anticlockwise
direction (S). Magnification 50×
(photo by I. Krajcar; photo and
adapted by J. Fileš Kramberger).

timetru, dok je gustoću sustava 2 bilo iznimno teško razabrati, 2 are poorly visible; therefore it was much more difficult to de-
osim na samom donjem rubu fragmenta, gdje je izmjerena oko termine the angle of the twist, but nevertheless the direction on
10 – 11 niti po centimetru. Prema navedenim podacima, moguće most was determined as the direction S, i.e. anticlockwise. The
je zaključiti da je riječ o relativno finoj tkanini jer se tkanina gu- data should be considered with caution, as it may be a reflection
stoće 5 niti / cm smatra otvorenom, grubljom tkaninom, ona gu- of the poor state of preservation of the fragment (Fig. 13).
stoće 10 niti / cm srednje finom tkaninom, ona gustoće do 15 niti
/ cm finom, a ona gustoće veće od 15 niti / cm vrlo finom, odno- The density and fineness of the fabric is expressed in the num-
sno vrlo gustom tkaninom.78 Konačno, uz donji se dio tkanine pri- ber of threads per square centimetre, or the number of warp or
čvršćen uz pločicu okova na lijevoj strani, od ruba prema sredini weft threads per centimetre.77 The density of system 1 (possibly
fragmenta, dijagonalno prema desno, spušta deblja sivo-smeđa weft) is about 18 – 20 threads per centimetre, while the densi-
linija (sl. 15: b, 4). Zbog slabe očuvanosti fragmenta te ostataka ty of system 2 was extremely difficult to discern, except at the
korozije i konsolidanata, teško je reći je li riječ o organskoj tvari lower edge of the fragment, where it was measured to about 10
(vjerojatno ostatak šava ili nabora u tkanju) ili jednostavno o ne- – 11 threads per centimetre. From this data, it is possible to con-
pravilnosti u koroziji. Cijeli se fragment mineraliziranoga organ- clude that this is a relatively fine fabric, because a fabric with a
skog materijala uz jedan bočni rub kopče savija, a na dijelovima density of 5 threads / cm is considered an open, coarser fabric, a
ima naglašenije linije i lagani pomak u usmjerenju dvaju sustava density of 10 threads / cm a medium-fine fabric, a density of up
niti tkanja, što bi moglo upućivati na gužvanje, odnosno činje- to 15 threads / cm fine, and a density greater than 15 threads /
nicu da je doista riječ o odjeći koja je bila nabrana i učvršćena cm a very fine or very thick fabric.78 Finally, a thickish grey-brown
pojasom.79 Iznad sloja keperne tkanine (sl. 15: b, 1) na pojedinim line descends diagonally to the right from the left edge to the
je dijelovima vidljiv tamniji smeđi sloj, nepravilno razbacanih middle of the fragment, along the lower part of the fabric at-
kratkih vlakana (sl. 15: b, 3), vjerojatno životinjskog porijekla, što tached to the fitting plate (Fig. 15: b, 4). Due to the poor state

77 Schlabow 1974; Grömer 2016. 77 Schlabow 1974; Grömer 2016.


78 Schlabow 1974, 186; Grömer 2016, 115. 78 Schlabow 1974, 186; Grömer 2016, 115.
79 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 69.
194 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

SliKa 14. Prikaz mogućega drugog


sloja tkanine s drugačijom završ-
nom obradom ili krzna s vidljivo
razbacanim vlaknima (detalj). Uve-
ćanje 50× (snimila J. Fileš Kramber-
ger).
Figure 14. Display of possible
second layer of fabric with a dif-
ferent finishing treatment, or fur
with visibly scattered fibres (de-
tail). Magnification 50× (photo by J.
Fileš Kramberger).

SliKa 15. a) Fotografija kopče s


mineraliziranom tkaninom; b) pri-
kaz različito očuvanih dijelova (ili
moguće različitih slojeva) organ-
skih ostataka: 1. tkanina, 2. slabo
očuvani ostaci mineralizirane tka-
nine, 3. razbacana vlakna, moguće
krzno ili tkanina s drugačijom za-
vršnom obradom, 4. moguć osta-
tak šava, pregiba ili vjerojatnije
željezne korozije; c) uvećan prikaz
(snimio I. Krajcar; snimila i obradi-
la J. Fileš Kramberger).
Figure 15. a) Photograph of the
buckle with mineralized fabric;
b) display of variously preserved
parts (or, possibly, different lay-
ers) of organic remains: 1. cloth;
2. poorly preserved remains of
mineralized fabric; 3. scattered fi-
bres, possibly fur or a fabric with
a different finishing treatment;
4. possible stitch residue, fold, or
most probably iron corrosion;
c) magnified display (photo by I.
Krajcar; photo and adapted by J.
Fileš Kramberger).
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upućuje na moguću upotrebu krzna,80 ili pak drugačiju završnu of preservation of the fragment, and the remains of corrosion
obradu ovog dijela tkanine, poput čupavljenja (sl. 14).81 Promjer and consolidants, it is difficult to say whether it is an organic
ovih vlakana u prosjeku iznosi oko 0,12 mm, a kroz njih se na di- substance (possibly a stitch residue, or a fold in the weave), or
jelovima prozire donja, ranije opisana tkanina. Ako je doista riječ simply an irregularity in the corrosion. The whole fragment of
o odvojenom sloju, može se zaključiti da je kopča prilikom depo- mineralized organic material bends along one side edge of the
zicije bila prislonjena uz vanjski sloj tkanine, ispod kojega se na- buckle, and there are more pronounced lines and a slight shift in
lazio sloj druge, drugačije obrađene tkanine ili, vjerojatno, krzna. the direction of the two systems of weaving threads on certain
Cjelokupan je mineralizirani fragment organskog materijala na parts, which could indicate creasing, i.e. the fact that it is indeed
rubovima vrlo slabo očuvan (sl. 15: b, 2), a na tim je dijelovima a part of the clothing, which has been gathered and tightened
nemoguće odrediti o kojem je od slojeva riječ i jesu li prisutna with a belt.79 A darker brown layer of irregularly scattered short
oba ili samo jedan. fibres (Fig. 15: b, 3) is visible above the layer of twill fabric (Fig.
15: b, 1). It is probably of animal origin, which indicates the pos-
sible use of fur,80 or a different finishing of this part of the fabric,
such as fulling (Fig. 14).81 The diameter of these fibres averages
about 0.12 mm, and the lower fabric, described above, is visible
through them in some areas. If it is indeed a separate layer, then
it is possible to conclude that the buckle was, during deposi-
tion, pressed against the outer layer of fabric, under which there
was a layer of another fabric, differently processed, or possibly
fur. The entire mineralized fragment of organic material is very
poorly preserved at the edges (Fig. 15: b, 2), and in these parts it
is impossible to determine which of the layers is in question, and
whether only one is present, or both.

Razmatranja o tekstilu Considerations concerning the textile

Na području Hrvatske teško je izdvojiti ostatke tekstila iz razdo- In Croatia, it is difficult to single out textile remains from the ear-
blja ranoga srednjeg vijeka. Oni su rijetko očuvani, ali i rijetko ly Middle Ages. They are rarely preserved, and also rarely recog-
prepoznatljivi, što dovodi do toga da su rijetko objavljeni, kao nizable, leading them towards being rarely published, e.g. Nuštar
npr. iz Nuštra.82 Paralele je potrebno potražiti izvan granica da- in Croatia.82 Parallels need to be sought outside the borders of
našnje Hrvatske. U Austriji, primjerice, na bavarskim grobljima today’s Croatia. In Austria, for example, in the Bavarian cemeter-
Rudelsdorf i Schwanenstadt prisutni su različiti oblici kepera, ies of Rudelsdorf and Schwanenstadt, there are different forms
poput spomenutoga rebrastog (2/1 keper) i križnog kepera, kao of twill, such as the ribbed (2/1 twill) and cross twill mentioned
i ubacivanje flotirajućih niti te uzorkovanja različitim uvojem above, as well as the insertion of floating threads, and patterns
niti, što su karakteristike koje se relativno rijetko pojavljuju u achieved with various thread twists, which are characteristics
rimsko doba, tj. prije 5. stoljeća.83 Slično se može reći i za lokali- relatively rare in Roman times, i.e. before the 5th century.83 The
tet Gobelsburg u Donjoj Austriji, datiran u 5. stoljeće, gdje se ne same can be said for the Gobelsburg site in Lower Austria, dating
primjećuju utjecaji kasnoantičke proizvodnje tekstila, već novije to the 5th century, where there is no evidence of the influence
srednjovjekovne upotrebe kompleksnijih vezova, tkanja na da- of late antique textile production, but rather the use of more
ščice i slično.84 Na području srednje Europe već se od 6. stoljeća complex weaves, tablet weaving and the like.84 In the area of
primjećuje veća raznolikost i kompleksnost u proizvodnji tkani- Central Europe, a greater diversity and complexity in the textile
ne u odnosu na prijašnje, ali i naredno razdoblje. Ovo je poseb- production has been noted since the 6th century in relation to
no vidljivo kod Avara, u čijim grobovima u Austriji i Mađarskoj the previous period. On the other hand, in Avar graves in Austria
prevladavaju jednostavna platnena tkanja te iznimno rips i pa- and Hungary simple tabby weaves prevail, and there are even
nama vez.85 Tkanina pronađena na kopči iz Novog Čeminca očito instances of repp and basket weave.85 The fabric from the buck-
je kompleksnije tkanje, vjerojatno keperno, lako proizvedeno na le found at Novi Čeminac is obviously a more complex weave,
okomitim tkalačkim stanovima s utezima, koji su uostalom i pro- probably a 2/1 twill, easily produced on warp-weighted looms,
nalaženi u zapunama kuća pripadajućeg naselja.86 Razne vrste of which there is evidence in the loom-weights which were, af-
kepera, poput 2/1 kepera te dijamantnog ili ševron kepera, bile su ter all, found in the fills of the houses of the associated settle-
općenito vrlo popularne među germanskim plemenima.87 Stoga, ment.86 Various types of twill, such as 2/1 twill, zig-zag twill and

80 Grömer, Tolar, Kostajnšek 2017, 211. 79 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 69.
81 Gleba 2008, 41; Grömer 2016, 210. 80 Grömer, Tolar, Kostajnšek 2017, 211.
82 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015. 81 Gleba 2008, 41; Grömer 2016, 210.
83 Grömer 2010, 18. 82 Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015.
84 Ruβ Popa, Grömer 2014. 83 Grömer 2010, 18.
85 Grömer, Müller 2008, 21; Grömer 2010, 19; Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 66. 84 Ruβ Popa, Grömer 2014.
86 Balen et al. 2016b, 17. 85 Grömer, Müller 2008, 21; Grömer 2010, 19; Grömer, Rapan Papeša 2015, 66.
87 Giostra et al. 2008, 592. 86 Balen et al. 2016b, 17.
196 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

ovakvi nalazi nisu neobični u ranosrednjovjekovnoj središnjoj diamond or chevron twill, were generally very popular among
Europi, a osim spomenutih austrijskih nalaza slični su pronađeni Germanic tribes.87 Therefore, such finds are not uncommon in
u Slovačkoj, Češkoj i Mađarskoj, ali i mnogo južnije, u Italiji. Na Early Medieval Central Europe; and, in addition to the Austrian
primjer, u bogatom grobu na lokalitetu Poprad-Matejovce u sje- finds mentioned, similar ones were found in Slovakia, the Czech
vernoj Slovačkoj, datiranog u kasno 4. i 5. stoljeće, pronađeni su Republic and Hungary, but also much farther to the south, in
mnogi primjeri organskog materijala, među kojima i nalazi tkani- Italy. For example, many examples of organic material, including
ne.88 Različiti su fragmenti tkanine identificirani kao tkanja izra- textile finds, were found in a rich tomb at the Poprad-Matejovce
đena od vune, ali i lana te s dodacima zlatnih niti, a tehnike su site in northern Slovakia, dating to the late 4th century and the
bile vrlo raznolike: platneno i keperno tkanje, jalba, tekstil istkan 5th.88 Different fragments of fabric were identified as weaves
na daščice, tapiserijsko tkanje itd.89 Mnogo je mineraliziranih made of wool, and also linen, and with the addition of gold
tekstilnih nalaza iz vremena ranoga srednjeg vijeka pronađeno threads, while the techniques were very diverse: tabby and twill
u grobnom kontekstu na nekoliko čeških nalazišta: Praha-Podba- weaves, sprang, tablet-woven textiles, tapestry weaving, etc.89
ba, Praha-Radotín, Radonice nad Ohří, Světec u Bíliny i Záluží u There are many mineralized textile finds of the early Middle Ages
Čelákovic.90 Ove su tkanine pronađene u grobovima datiranim u found in a grave context at several Czech sites: Praha-Podbaba,
razdoblje tzv. Velike seobe naroda,91 neke od njih točnije smješte- Praha-Radotín, Radonice nad Ohří, Světec in Bíliny, and Záluží in
ne u 6. stoljeće.92 Očuvane su u mineraliziranom stanju uz razli- Čelákovic.90 These fabrics were found in graves belonging to the
čite metalne predmete, a definirane su kao platnena ili keperna Great Migration Period,91 and some of them more accurately date
tkanja različitih gustoća, od srednje finih do finijih, s jednako to the 6th century.92 They were preserved in a mineralized state
ili kombinirano uvijenim nitima u oba sustava.93 U jugoistočnoj alongside various metal objects, and were defined as tabby or
Mađarskoj, na gepidskom groblju na lokalitetu Szőreg-Téglagyár twill weaves of varying densities, from medium fine to finer, with
je u 14 grobova pronađeno mnogo relativno finih (oko 20 niti / threads twisted in the same or varying directions in both thread
cm) tekstilnih ostataka u različitim tekstilnim vezovima, među systems.93 In southeastern Hungary, at the Gepid cemetery at
kojima platneni te razne varijante kepernog (2/2, 2/1 ili rebrasti i the Szőreg-Téglagyár site, many relatively fine (about 20 threads
dijamantni).94 Vrlo zanimljiv primjer iz Italije nalazi se u ostacima / cm) textile remains in various textile weaves were found in
tekstila pronađenim na ostrogotskoj pojasnoj kopči u Tortoni.95 14 graves, including tabby and various variants of twill (2/2, 2/1
Riječ je o slučaju vrlo sličnom ovome iz Novog Čeminca. Naime, or ribbed and diamond).94 There is a very interesting example
organski su ostaci tkanine i kože u dodiru s kopčom ostali očuva- from Italy: the remains of textiles found on an Ostrogothic belt
ni željeznom korozijom, a vrsta tkanja je, čini se, rebrasti (2/1) ke- buckle in Tortona.95 This is an example very similar to that of Novi
per. Ovakav tip kepera nije rijedak u srednjoj Europi, a pojavljuje Čeminac. More precisely, the organic remains of the fabric and
se na mnogo lokaliteta 6. i 7. stoljeća.96 Najčešće je ograničen na leather in contact with the buckle were preserved by iron cor-
područje južne Njemačke i Švicarske do središnjeg toka Rajne, ali rosion, and the weave type appears to be ribbed twill (2/1). This
to je vjerojatno rezultat stanja istraženosti jer pojedinačni nala- type of twill is not uncommon in Central Europe, and occurs on
zi iz drugih područja, poput Italije ili Danske, ukazuju na puno numerous sites from the 6th and 7th centuries.96 It is usually con-
šire rasprostiranje ovog tipa tkanja.97 Nalazi 2/1 kepera često su fined to the area of southern Germany and Switzerland, down to
izrađeni od lanenih vlakana, a češći su u muškim grobovima iako the central Rhine watercourse, but this is probably a reflection
se katkad nalaze i u ženskim, kao što je primjer ženskoga groba u of the state of research, because individual finds from other ar-
Hjemstedu u Danskoj iz 5. – 6. stoljeća.98 Primjerak tekstila iz Tor- eas, such as Italy or Denmark, indicate a much wider distribution
tone u Italiji mnogo je finiji (60 niti / cm) od primjerka iz Novog Če- of this weave type.97 Examples of 2/1 twill weaves are often made
minca, a i sama pređa znatno je manjeg promjera (oko 0,12 – 0,17 of flax fibres, and are more common in male graves, although
mm). Potrebno je naglasiti da su autori, prema rezultatima SEM they are sometimes found in female graves as well, such as the
analize otisaka vlakana, zaključili da nije riječ o vuni iako i to tre- example of a female grave in Hemsted, Denmark, of the 5th – 6th
ba uzeti s oprezom zbog vrlo slabo vidljivih otisaka površine vla- centuries.98 The sample of textile from Tortona in Italy is much
kana, na što i sami autori upozoravaju.99 Upravo će ovi podaci biti finer (60 threads / cm) than the sample from Novi Čeminac, and
važni prilikom usporedbe s tekstilom iz Novog Čeminca, a nakon the yarn diameter itself is much smaller (about 0.12 – 0.17 mm). It
SEM analiza vlakana. Prema nalazima u muškim grobovima sred- should be emphasized that the authors, according to the results

88 Štolcová, Zink, Pieta 2009. 87 Giostra et al. 2008, 592.


89 Štolcová, Schaarschmidt, Mitschke 2014, 53–54. 88 Štolcová, Zink, Pieta 2009.
90 Urbanová 2008. 89 Štolcová, Schaarschmidt, Mitschke 2014, 53–54.
91 Urbanová 2008, 531; 2010. 90 Urbanová 2008.
92 Urbanová 2008, 536; Urbanová, Kostka, Korený 2010, 385. 91 Urbanová 2008, 531; 2010.
93 Urbanová 2008; Belanová-Štolcová 2012, 326. 92 Urbanová 2008, 536; Urbanová, Kostka, Korený 2010, 385.
94 Nagy 2002. 93 Urbanová 2008; Belanová-Štolcová 2012, 326.
95 Giostra et al.2008. 94 Nagy 2002.
96 Priest-Dorman 2000, 4; Giostra et al. 2008; 595, bilj. 65. 95 Giostra et al. 2008.
97 Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 137. 96 Priest-Dorman 2000, 4; Giostra et al. 2008, 595, n. 65.
98 Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 136–137. 97 Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 137.
99 Giostra et al. 2008, 590. 98 Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 136–137.
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nje Europe, smatra se da bi nalazi 2/1 kepernog tekstila očuvanih of SEM analysis carried out on the fibre casts, conclude that it
na pojasnim kopčama mogli biti dijelovi tunika, ali moguće je da is not wool, although this should be taken with caution due to
je ovakav tekstil bio korišten i za izradu torbica, ili čak dijelova very faint impressions of the fibre surface, of which the authors
odjeće donjeg dijela tijela, sudeći prema ostacima na metalnim themselves warn.99 This data will be of importance when com-
predmetima pronađenima uz noge pokojnika.100 paring with textiles from Novi Čeminac, and after SEM analysis
of fibres. According to finds in men’s graves in Central Europe,
Prema navedenome, za tekstil očuvan na kopči iz groba 5 u No- it is believed that examples of 2/1 twill textiles preserved on
vom Čemincu svakako je moguće zaključiti kako je riječ o fini- belt buckles could be parts of tunics, but it is possible that such
joj tkanini, vjerojatno lokalne proizvodnje i relativno tipičnih textiles were also used to make pouches, or even parts of lower-
tehničkih karakteristika za razdoblje 5. stoljeća srednje Europe body clothing, according to remains on metal objects found at
(keper, vjerojatno 2/1, te uzorkovanje različitim uvojem niti). U the feet of the deceased.100
ovom je slučaju teže odrediti o kakvoj je odjeći točno riječ, ali
sudeći prema samom in situ nalazu kopče na zdjelici pokojnika According to the above, it is certainly possible to conclude that
i navedenim podacima s drugih europskih lokaliteta, vjerojatno the textile preserved on the buckle from grave 5 in Novi Čeminac
je riječ o finijoj odjeći u kojoj je pokojnik ukopan, a moguće je i is a finer fabric, probably of local production and with technical
da je riječ o dijelu gornjeg, širega odjevnog predmeta, nabranog characteristics relatively typical of 5th-century Central Europe
i skupljenog pojasom. (twill, probably 2/1, and spin patterning). In this case, it is more
difficult to determine the type of clothing, but judging by the in
situ finding of the buckle on the deceased’s pelvis, and the data
from other European sites, it is probably a fairly fine garment in
which the deceased was buried, and it is possible that it is part
of an upper, wider piece of garment (possibly a tunic), gathered
by a belt.

Zaključak Conclusion

Željezna kopča ukrašena okruglim, ravno rezanim almandinima, An iron buckle decorated on the fitting and base of the thorn
tehnikom champlevé (pseudo cloisonné) na okovu i bazi trna, with round flat-cut almandines using the champlevé technique
okruglim pločicama od slitine bakra na okovu, tauširanjem sliti- (pseudo-cloisonné), with round copper-alloy sheets on the fit-
nom bakra na pređici, s ostacima mineralizirane tkanine i kože ting, inlaying with copper alloy on the buckle loop, with rem-
pojasa, pronađena je u grobu ratnika u Novom Čemincu na polo- nants of mineralized fabric and leather belt, was found in a war-
žaju Jauhov salaš u hrvatskoj Baranji. Kopča pripada mediteran- rior’s grave in Novi Čeminac, at the Jauhov Salaš site in Croatian
skom tipu koja se, prema tipologiji Schulze-Dörrlamm smješta u Baranja. The buckle belongs to the Mediterranean type, which,
grupu C, podgrupu C11, prisutnu na širokom području Sredoze- according to the Schulze-Dörrlamm typology, is located in group
mlja i datira u drugu polovinu 5. i početak 6. stoljeća. Upravo se u C, subgroup C11, present in the wider Mediterranean area, and
tom razdoblju bogati muški grobovi Podunavlja prepoznaju kroz dated to the second half of the 5th century and the beginning of
mač, langsax, kopču s okovom koja često predstavlja mediteran- the 6th. It was during this period that the rich male graves of the
ske tipove i njihove derivate.101 To je vrijeme Teodorikove vladavi- Danube region were identified by the sword, langsax, a buckle
ne prije odlaska Gota u Italiju ili vrijeme njegova vladanja u Italiji with a fitting that often represents Mediterranean types, and
kad je Ostrogotsko kraljevstvo imalo vrlo jaku političku ulogu i their derivatives.101 This is the time of Theodoric’s reign, before
značaj u germanskom svijetu. S trenutnim stanjem analizirano- the Goths departed towards Italy, or the time of his reign in
sti groblja na području Europe, vrlo je teško definirati kojoj su Italy, when the Ostrogothic kingdom had a very strong political
germanskoj ili barbarskoj skupini pripadali groblje i naselje ot- role and significance in the Germanic world. Taking into consid-
kriveno u Novom Čemincu. Prema Wernerovim karakteristikama eration the current state of analysis of cemeteries throughout
„gotskih naroda“, za Gote je karakterističan nedostatak oružja u Europe, it is very difficult to define which Germanic or barbaric
muškim grobovima.102 Danas je očito da je tu teoriju potrebno group the cemetery and settlement discovered in Novi Čeminac
preispitati jer se u Podunavlju pronalaze bogati muški grobovi belongs to. According to Werner’s characteristics of ‘Gothic peo-
s oružjem i bez njega, datirani u ovo vrijeme (groblja Mözs, Novi ples’, a lack of weapons in men’s graves is a characteristic of
Čeminac), koji bi se prema ostalome dostupnom materijalu mogli Goths.102 It is obvious that this theory needs to be re-examined,
povezati s kulturom Ostrogota. Brojčano mala groblja (Kilimán, because there are rich male graves, with and without weapons,
Patý, Tác, Kővágószőlős, Keszthely-Fenékpuszta) druge polovine found in the Danube region, dated to this period (Mözs cemetery,
5. stoljeća u Panoniji pripadaju Germanima, barbarima i na njima Novi Čeminac), which could, alongside other available mate-
nema tragova romanskog stanovništva.103 Vida konstatira kako rial, be associated with Ostrogoth culture. Quantitatively small

100 Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 138. 99 Giostra et al. 2008, 590.


101 Pinar, Ripoll 2007, 85. 100 Haas-Gebhard, Stolz 2012, 138.
102 Werner 1956; Pinar, Ripoll 2007, 88. 101 Pinar, Ripoll 2007, 85.
103 Vida 2011, 641. 102 Werner 1956; Pinar, Ripoll 2007, 88.
198 anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21)

su se bogate germanske obitelji pokapale u pojedinačnim grobo- burial grounds (Kilimán, Patý, Tác, Kővágószőlős, Keszthely-
vima ili malim grobljima od nekoliko grobova.104 Stoga, trenutno Fenékpuszta) of the second half of the 5th century in Pannonia
je moguće konstatirati samo kako grob ratnika i ostali grobovi iz belong to the Germans, the barbarians, without traces of Roman
Novog Čeminca svakako imaju germanske elemente. population.103 Vida notes that wealthy Germanic families were
buried in individual graves, or small burial grounds comprising
Običaj prilaganja predmeta u grobove na germanskim grobljima several graves.104 At the moment, it is only possible to state that
na redove nije karakterističan za mediteranski svijet (koji je ta- the warrior’s grave and other graves at Novi Čeminac certainly
kav običaj smatrao kulturno inferiornim). Stanovništvo Medite- have Germanic elements.
rana ne poznaje taj običaj, što dovodi do jednostrane selekcije
materijala i teškoća, ali od velike su pomoći nalazi s periferije The custom of placing objects in graves in Germanic cemeteries
poput Sirije, gdje su pokojnici u 5. i 6. stoljeću također pokapa- in rows is not a characteristic of the Mediterranean world (which
ni s prilozima.105 Mediteranski je tip kopči rasprostranjen na ši- considered such a custom culturally inferior). The Mediterranean
rokom području pa ima veliku tipološku raznolikost. Iako u stilu population does not know this custom, which leads to a one-
postoje sličnosti, uočene su velike razlike u sirovini i zlatarskim sided selection of materials, and difficulties. Still, archaeological
tehnikama premda je razlike moguće povezati s modom, a ne material from the peripheral areas, such as Syria, where the dead
izradom.106 Zlatari (zanatlije) bili su povezani s određenom višom in the 5th and 6th centuries were also buried with grave goods, are
klasom germanskih populacija koje su bile međusobno poveza- of great help.105 The Mediterranean type of buckle is widespread
ne na širokom području, a iznenađujuće sličnosti predmeta do over a wide area, and therefore has great typological diversity.
sitnih detalja govore tomu u prilog. Uvijek obnovljivi prijedlozi Although there are similarities in style, great differences in raw
i impulsi s Mediterana mogu biti brzo apsorbirani na udaljenim materials and goldsmithing techniques have been observed, al-
područjima u okviru žive razmjene unutar germanskog svijeta, though these differences can be related to fashion, rather than
bilo da su stigli kao rezultat ratnog pohoda, aktivnosti plaćenika- workmanship.106 Goldsmiths (artisans) were associated with a
federata, kupnje, dara, diplomatskih veza ili braka.107 U prilog ak- certain higher class of Germanic populations that were inter-
tivnostima plaćenika-federata svakako ide činjenica da su takve connected over a wide area, and the surprising similarities of
kopče obično pričvršćivale vojne pojaseve, odnosno pojaseve na the objects, down to the smallest detail, speak in favour of this
kojima se nalazilo oružje (spatha). Pojas je važan dio onodobne hypothesis. Proposals and impulses from the Mediterranean, al-
nošnje koji, osim praktične svrhe držanja oružja i popratnih pred- ways renewable, could be quickly absorbed in remote areas as
meta, posjeduje i statusnu ulogu (upravo nam materijal, ukras i part of a lively exchange within the German world, whether they
sama veličina elemenata pojasne garniture ukazuju na status had arrived as a result of a war campaign, mercenary/foederati
osobe koja nosi pojas). Kopča iz Novog Čeminca bila je dio voj- activities, purchases, gifts, diplomatic ties or marriage.107 The ac-
nog pojasa na kojemu je bila pričvršćena spatha. Budući da je tivity of mercenaries/foederati is certainly supported by the fact
kopča tijekom iskopavanja pronađena iznad zdjelice pokojnika that such buckles were usually used to fasten military belts, i.e.
te djelomično ispod mača, moguće je, također, pretpostaviti da belts which held weapons (spatha). The belt is an important part
očuvana tkanina na stražnjoj strani kopče (keper) predstavlja dio of the attire of that time, which, in addition to the practical pur-
odjeće pokojnika kao tkanina fine, vjerojatno lokalne proizvod- pose of holding weapons and other accompanying items, is also
nje i tehničkih karakteristika relativno tipičnih za srednju Euro- a symbol of status (the material, decoration and the size of the
pu u drugoj polovini 5. i na početku 6. stoljeća. elements of the belt set indicating the status of the person wear-
ing the belt). The buckle from Novi Čeminac was part of a military
belt to which a spatha was attached. Since, during the excava-
tion, the buckle was found above the pelvis of the deceased, and
partly under the sword, it is also possible to assume that the pre-
served fabric on the back of the buckle (twill) is actually part of
the deceased’s clothing, typical of Central Europe in the second
half of the 5th century and the early 6th.

104 Vida 2000, 324. 103 Vida 2011, 641.


105 Werner 1966, 288. 104 Vida 2000, 324.
106 Horváth 2012b, 320. 105 Werner 1966, 288.
107 Werner 1966, 289–290; Horváth 2012b, 320. 106 Horváth 2012b, 320.
107 Werner 1966, 289–290; Horváth 2012b, 320.
vamz / 3. serija / liv (2o21) anita dugonjić, julija fileš kramberger, jacqueline balen: pojasna kopča s ukrasom od almandina i ostacima tkanine... 199

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