London Fashion Week:

Claves de las pasarelas de

hombre O/I 23/24
Descubra las claves de la moda de hombre durante la
Semana de la Moda de Londres, marcada por tendencias
que van de lo elegante a lo cotidiano.

Noah Zagor
03.06.23 - 11 minutos

En breve en ES

Saul Nash
Overview Top hashtags used by WGSN strategists
While the shows in London are often A/W 23/24
thought of as pushing the boundaries of
design, A/W 23/24 offered a more even mix AddOnAccessories
DistressedTexture UndoneElegance
LowRise
of directional concepts and rack-ready

DarkNights
looks. In many cases, even the boldest looks
and trends had roots in more classic (or JewelTones

#NotSoClassic) tropes, perhaps offering a SportCore Topcoat RawEdge

HyperTexture

WideLegTrouser TheGreatOutdoors
RedefiningMasculinity
Patrick McDowell
glimpse of how retailers will be able to
Neutrals GraphicMonochrome
expand their assortments while remaining
BlackWithBlack
NotSoClassic
SartorialChecks
within their comfort zones.
Male expression and identity continues to
ContemporaryQuilting PerformanceBlue
be one the most important cultural
conversations happening right now, and no WGSN Fashion Feed
place is this more evident than on the
catwalks. Traditional jackets and ties paired
Most viewed designers London A/W 23/24
with skirts, soft glam looks, and delicate
Ranking
#sheers were all in play, helping with
#RedefiningMasculinity.
Although there were plenty of dark colours
Patrick McDowell 1 Robyn Lynch

and edgy designs, the overall attitude was Labrum London 2

less sombre. Even #BlackWithBlack looks
took a romantic, sophisticated and even Pronounce 3
hedonistic turn, falling under the umbrella
of our key trend, #DarkNights.
London College of Fashion 4
Head to #CatwalksAutumnWinter23 to see the
Mowalola 5
complete Fashion Feed coverage of the season.

WGSN Catwalk Gallery. Patrick McDowell's presentation was equal parts mens and womenswear
and was based on a juxtaposition of ideas. Men were seen in silky garments and obvious make-
up in line with the #RedefiningMasculinity theme, but were also wearing football boots and
walking down an AstroTurf catwalk, playing up our #SportCore theme. This dichotomy is
indicative of the cultural moment, and is guiding much of current menswear design. S.S. Daley

1
Key trends
Mithridate
#RedefiningMasculinity
While there were ample skirts,
heels, and skin-bearing designs
on the London catwalks, softer,
less drastic, and even somewhat
elegant versions of this season's
biggest trend were equally
represented.
2
Paul & Joe
#DarkNights
#SubversiveSexy may be one way
to explore male hedonism, but
there is also a way that leans
more heavily into dark tailoring
and delicate details. Sensual and
romantic as opposed to brash
and overt, this look will speak to
a more sophisticated, mature
audience.
London College of Fashion
#UndoneElegance
Structureless clothes drape softly
on the body, with styles stripped
of details and in some cases
finishes and trims. While
extreme takes on this trend are
more conceptual, we anticipate
commercial interpretations to
surface via fashion-forward
tailoring and statement-making
dress shirts.
S.S. Daley
#NotSoClassic
Although the overwhelming
presence of #NewPrep may be in
decline, nods to classic ways of
dressing are still incredibly
relevant and can have great
commercial appeal. Tapping into
traditional menswear themes,
both smart and casual, these
designs are amplified and
warped without losing touch of
the classic inspiration.
Mowalola
#SportCore
Typically, overt nods to team and
athleticwear are associated with
American streetwear. Trending
#TrackSuits, athletic materials,
and even team logos were all
represented in London this
season, highlighting the global
influence sportswear has had on
men's fashion.
Colour
London College of Fashion
#PerformanceBlue
Existing somewhere between a
sporty team colour and a digital
neon, this bold shade of blue sits
within the same family as the
Galactic Blue called out in our
Buyers' Briefing. In London,
designers took this colour out of
its expected context, using it for
smarter looks while maintaining
its overall futuristic and
optimistic qualities.
3
Robyn Lynch
#GetYourGreens
The #GetYourGreens story
emerged from the drive to return
to nature. At first it was about
battling nature and protecting
oneself from the elements, but
later it morphed into a deeper,
almost transcendental
appreciation of nature. The
greens in London are more in
line with the latter, injecting life
into winter assortments while
promoting wellness.
Feben
#BlackWithBlack
The all-black aesthetic has
appeared on catwalks in every
city this season. And, while in
some places it feels like a direct
response to ongoing
uncertainties surrounding
culture as a whole, in London it
felt more like a romantic and
luxurious version of black, in
line with our #DarkNights trend.
Simone Rocha
#JewelTones
Deep blues, gemstone greens,
and sensuous deep reds offer a
sense of opulence and luxury,
highlighting the importance of
evening and occasionwear as
people continue to jump back
into the social lives they were
missing during the pandemic.
Mithridate
#Neutrals
In London, soft easy looks took
advantage of the calming and
soothing qualities that neutrals
offer. However, equally
interesting were the neutrals
being used in utilitarian looks,
nodding more to utility looks
than to serene landscapes.
Prints and graphics
Edward Crutchley
#Cartoon
In theory, these playful prints are
key for younger markets
interested in memes and
subverting taste, and this is
where they'll probably land at
retail. Yet, designers in London
were able to dress them up and
include them in more directional
and mature looks, playing old
against young.
4
Helen Anthony
#SartorialChecks
With #NotSoClassic themes
trending and a public seemingly
ready to take on smarter looks, it
makes sense that traditional
checks were a staple in London,
used on everything from
tailoring to oversized trousers
and statement coats.
Ahluwalia
#DigitalFilter
The deep dive into digital culture
during Covid has awakened the
world to a type of design that
feels very much right now.
Embracing Web3 and the
#Metaverse has become part of
the zeitgeist, and in turn, prints
that look digitally altered and
futuristically surreal have grown
in importance.
Labrum London
#GraphicMonochrome
#BlackAndWhite or tonal prints
can be both visually striking or
sophisticatedly subtle depending
on how obvious the contrasts
are. However, these prints are
key because of how clean,
minimal, and stripped-back they
are, while offering seasonless
appeal.
Burberry
#DarkGroundFlorals
While also part of the larger
#DarkNights trend, these
brooding florals were able to
cross over into more casual,
street-ready looks, largely thanks
to their simple two-tone
appearance. Yet even in this
context, it's hard to escape the
sense of romanticism embedded
in these prints.
Materials and details
Chet Lo
#HyperTexture
Over the past few seasons, we've
called out several large, fuzzy
designs to help identify the
#HyperTexture trend, but there's
more to it than just mohair and
#FauxFur. In London, designers
took a more digital and
sculptural approach, using 3D
elements to create pieces that
have a very physical, tactile feel,
even if they look like they've
come straight out of the
5#Metaverse.
Mark Fast
#ContemporaryQuilting
From #PufferJackets to diamond
quilted heritage jackets, quilted
outerwear is a staple of modern
winter wardrobes. We
highlighted the #PufferJacket in
our A/W 23/24 Buyers' Briefing,
with London now providing
more directional interpretations.
Moreover, designers aren't just
embracing new outerwear
silhouettes, but are using
quilting for trousers, shirting,
and other categories.
Simone Rocha
#Sheers
Closely related to
#RedefiningMasculinity, the
sheer items in London also were
a key part of the #DarkNights
trend. While for New York and
Milan, we called out sheers
mostly as #SubversiveSexy and
for #SkinRevealTops, the
versatility of the material was on
show in London, with #Sheers
being layered over opaque
garments, creating a romantic
look with a sense of depth.
Pronounce
#CraftedDetails
Craft has been a big part of the
fashion conversation going back
into the earliest days of Covid,
with trends like #Homespun
filling up our Fashion Feed.
Currently, the craft on display is
more refined and mostly used to
add handmade touches and
textures to looks that still can
feel polished enough for the
catwalks.
London College of Fashion
#GlamorousTextures
If #HyperTexture is all about big
and bold tactile design, then
#GlamorousTextures is the
opposite, speaking more to the
smooth and silky, almost louche-
feeling materials that epitomise
casual elegance. Flowing #Sheers
and #HighShine satins bring a bit
of the bedroom into everyday
looks, while capturing a different
aspect of the sensual and
romantic designs seen
throughout the London shows.
Key items
Burberry
#MatchingSet
More often than not, when we've
covered #MatchingSets it's been
in reference to two-piece jacket
and trouser looks in the winter,
or shirt and shorts looks in the
summer. Designers in London
further explored our collective
interests in fully coordinated sets
by adding footwear, accessories,
and knitwear into the mix for
head-to-toe #MatchingSets.
6 materials, which work well with
Pronounce
#Topcoat
In the context of #NotSoClassic
design, the full-cut coat can
become a lot more playful and
relaxed. Oversized silhouettes,
some of which were scraping the
floor, can either pair with full-cut
clothes for a #LowKeyLuxury
look, or with slimmer designs,
creating interesting proportion
play.
Helen Anthony
#WideLegTrouser
Now somewhat commonplace,
designers and brands at all levels
showcase #WideLegTrousers.
While at retail, slightly less
exaggerated styles in subdued
colours will probably land best,
catwalk designers aren't afraid to
fully turn up the volume when it
comes to both size and colour.
Simone Rocha
#LeatherTrousers
The #LeatherTrouser can be
tricky due to both cost and
sustainability implications,
making it hard to translate from
the catwalks, where they've been
key in every city. While some
higher price-point designers may
be using food-based
#LeatherAlternatives and other
innovations, there is a strong
opportunity to work with
recycled leather and leather-like
Edward Crutchley
#SkirtsForAnybody
Kilts and other skirts more
closely linked to menswear have
been bubbling up as a trend for
some time, so the idea is no
longer completely alien to many.
With #RedefiningMasculinity
being such an important
touchstone, it makes sense that
catwalk designers are upping the
ante by pairing long flowing
skirts with platform boots,
pushing the conversation and
perceptions even further.
the current fuller cuts and help
to promote a #CircularEconomy.
Footwear and accessories
S.S. Daley
#AddOnAccessories
There's something to be said for
an accessory that doesn't quite fit
into any one category and yet is
still functional. For example, the
the sweater top here can sit
above a blazer, styled in a
directional way as shown, but
can just as easily be tucked under
a coat for a fashionable and
practical alternative to a scarf
7
Ahluwalia
#ApronToes
Apron-toed shoes have emerged
as the next menswear style of
choice, adding to the still-
popular loafers and rugged
Chelsea boots that have helped
men move away from purely
wearing sneakers. In London,
designers take the opportunity to
reimagine the style in bold
colours and prints.
Edward Crutchley
#BucketHat
Classic and commercial, and
directional and eye-catching, the
bucket hat remains popular. As
such, menswear designers
continue to lean on it heavily to
top off looks, sometimes in
austere #GraphicMonotone, and
other times in #HandCrafted knit
versions.
Eudon Choi
#ElongatedScarf
Across all A/W 23/24 Fashion
Weeks, the #ElongatedScarf has
been one of the most visible
accessories on the catwalks –
often almost comically long and
bold. Designers like Eudon Choi
have opted to create more
refined versions that don't have
to trade in the length.
Helen Anthony
#Tie
The necktie has emerged as a
designer favourite this season,
appearing in multiple shows. The
piece is instantly familiar and
symbolises traditional smart
dressing. But with its newfound
popularity, designers aren't only
pairing them with suits, but
instead working them into a
variety of looks – some of which
are completely casual.
Denim
Mithridate
#RawDenim
#RawDenim re-emerges as a key
trend on the catwalks. This time
around, it seems less about being
a denim purist, and instead it's
about introducing a new colour
and texture into looks.
8 to keep things current.
Mark Fast
#DenimOnDenim
This often tricky look is moved
out of costume territory through
the use of non-traditional
colours and varied textures, and
by avoiding overt #Workwear or
Western-wear references, and by
treating head-to-toe denim looks
more like a #MatchingSet.
KWK by Kay Kwok
#DistressedTexture
While the #Y2K revival may
seem more aimed at younger
crowds, designers are
nevertheless drawing inspiration
from this period. One obvious
nod to the era is the hyper-
distressed, faded denim with
whiskering and frayed edges that
could only be made on purpose.
Key updates to note include new
silhouettes and #ColourfulDenim
in highly visible #WinterBrights
Mowalola
#LowRise
The other key signifier of #Y2K
denim was the plunging rises. As
with the #DistressedTextures, the
implementation of the lower
rises isn't taken wholly from the
previous era. Instead, designers
are opting to be playful with the
detail, even incorporating skin-
bearing #Cutouts, which have
also been trending this catwalk
season.
Eudon Choi
#WideLegTrouser
While wide-leg denim isn't new
to the catwalks, it remains an
important trend. Newness in
London came from smarter
versions of the wide jean, with
formal details like pleats and
waist buckle tabs.