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Maintenance Manual of 2.

0CTI Diesel Engine

Engine’s Mechanical System

Chapter 2 Engine’s Mechanical System

I. Maintenance precautions

1.1 General precautions

1) Engine’s coolant liquid

Engine’s coolant liquid cannot be discharged until the engine is cooled


down.

2) Disconnecting fuel line

ķ Release fuel pressure before disconnection or disassembly

ĸ Block the opening and prevent fuel leakage before disconnecting fuel
line

3) Dismantlement and disassembly

ķ Please use special tools, and notice safe operation, and do not operate
without following instructions

ĸ Do not damage fitting surface or sliding surface

Ĺ If necessary, use adhesive tapes or similar objects to block engine


system’s opening, in order to avoid foreign objects

ĺ Mark and put the disassemble parts in order for the convenience of
failure recovery and re-assembly

Ļ The basic principle of loosening bolts and nuts is, loosen the outside
first, and its diagonal line position second. If the loosening order is written in the

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

Engine’s Mechanical System

manual, please follow the instructions.

4) Check, maintenance and replacement

Before maintenance or replacement, check the spare parts thoroughly and


replace parts if necessary.

5) Assembly

ķ Use torque wrench to tighten bolts and nuts

ĸ The basic principle of tightening bolts and nuts is to tighten the central
first, inside/outside diagonal second, with equal tightness. If the order is
designated in manual book, then follow the instructions.

Ĺ Replace new bearing strip, oil-seal or “O” ring

ĺ Thoroughly wash, clean and dry each spare part, and check whether any
block exists in engine oil or coolant

Ļ Do not damage fitting surface or sliding surface, and eliminate all


foreign objects. Make sure machine oil has been applied on the sliding surface
before assembly.

ļ After exhaust all engine coolant, release all air inside the pipeline before
refuel coolant.

Ľ After maintenance, start engine and increase engine speed, then check
whether any leakage exists in engine’s coolant, fuel, machine oil, inlet and
exhaust air.

6) Spare parts that need to be tightened with certain degrees

ķ The following engine’s spare parts need to be tightened by spanner with


certain degrees:

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

Engine’s Mechanical System

a. cylinder head’s bolt

b. main bearing cover’s bolt

c. connecting rod nut

ĸ Do not regard the figure above as final tightening figure, as these figures
are applied to pre-tightening only.

Ĺ Ensure the surface of thread and


base is clean and applied with engine oil.

1.2 Precaution of sealant

1) Disassemble the sealant

After disassembling fixing nuts and bolts, use scraper to separate fitting
surface and remove the old sealant.

Caution:

႑ do not make damage on fitting space

႑ insert the scraper, knock and slide the side face as the picture shown

႑ if it is necessary to use screwdriver, please be careful and do not hurt the

fitting surface

2) apply the sealant

཰ use scraper to remove the old

sealant on the liner surface and fitting

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

Engine’s Mechanical System

surface

Caution:

႑ remove the old sealant thoroughly on the applying surface’s groove,

fixing bolts and bolt holes

ཱ use unleaded gasoline to wipe the applying and fitting surface of sealant,

and remove any water, lubricating grease and foreign matter above.

ི apply specified sealant on specified

position.

႑ if there is groove that can place the

sealant, put the sealant in the groove.

႑ generally, the sealant should be put

inside the bolt hole, and only be put outside


occasionally.

႑ clean any stain on the sealant

႑ do not re-tighten bolts and nuts

after installation

႑ add engine oil or coolant 30 minutes after installation

Caution:

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႑ if any special instruction is referred in this manual, please follow the

instructions.

1.3 Details of engine sealant

Sealing part Sealant Sealant’s


diameter

Bowl-seat – cylinder body TONSAN 1608 oxygen-weary (1±0.5)mm


sealant for metal

Crankshaft’s rear oil-seal support TONSAN 1608 oxygen-weary φ3mm±0.3


– cylinder body sealant for metal

Engine oil’s pressure sensor – TONSAN 1591/1590 surface /


cylinder body silicone sealant

Oil sump – cylinder body LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN φ2mm±0.3


1590 surface silicone sealant

Camshaft frame – cylinder head LOCTITE 5182 or TONSAN φ1.5mm±0.3


1518 oxygen-weary surface
sealant

Bowl-seat/water pipe – cylinder TONSAN 1608 oxygen-weary /


head sealant for metal

Joint part of camshaft frame, LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN φ2mm±0.3


cylinder head and vacuum pump 1590 surface silicone sealant

Joint part of camshaft frame, LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN φ2mm±0.3


cylinder head and sprocket 1590 surface silicone sealant
chamber

Oil pump – cylinder body LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN φ2mm±0.3


1590 surface silicone sealant

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

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Oil pump – sprocket chamber LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN φ2mm±0.3


1590 surface silicone sealant

Sprocket chamber – chamber LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN φ2mm±0.3


head 1590 surface silicone sealant

Water temperature sensor – TONSAN 1243 screw thread /


cylinder head sealant

Remark: other products with similar performance are acceptable

II. Front auxiliary drive system

2.1 System diagram

1. Belt 2. Damping belt pulley 3. Cooling fan 4. Air compressor

5. Generator 6. Power steering pump 7. Idle gear I 8. Idle gear II

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9. Auto-tensioner of front auxiliary system

2.2 Check

1) Check the mark on the side face of tensioner. If mark A aligns with mark
C, the belt may be over-worn or over-stretched, and needs to be replaced.

2) Check the engine belt’s surface and confirm whether any crack, wear
exists on surface, and replace the belt if yes. Check the timing belt carefully and
replace old timing belt if any following flaw appears:

཰ belt brakes

ཱ belt wears, and core wire reveals

ི belt edge wears seriously or even falls off

ཱི belt ages and loses elasticity

ུ the rubber on the reverse side hardens without elasticity, and doesn’t

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have trace after sliding by fingernails

3) Check auto-tensioner; check whether idler runs smoothly, its backlash


and noise level. If necessary, replace the auto-tensioner and idler.

2.3 Disassembly

Wrench the auto-tensioner clockwise and remove the belt.

2.4 Installation precaution

1) If tiny lubricating oil exists on belt, use dry cloth or paper to wipe the oil.
Do not clean the belt with detergent.

2) Before removing belt, remember the belt’s installing position and


direction in case of mis-assembly. During installing procedure, please follow the
reverse order of disassembly.

3) while installing belt on belt wheels, check the fitting situation of belt and
wheels. If the belt and wheels don’t fit well, the belt’s working life will be
affected. After installing and adjusting the belt, check whether the belt runs on
the same surface. If not, it will cause damage to the belt.

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

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Table 1: diagnosis of belt in front auxiliary drive system

Situation Possible reason Solutions

Belt edge thickens 1. foreign matters implant in pulley 1. eliminate foreign matter
groove in groove and replace belt.

2. replace the belt

Edge or belt wears 1. wheels do not align with each other 1. align belt pulley

2. caused by external environment 2. clean belt pulley, and


replace belt if necessary
3. belt pulley corrodes
3. replace belt pulley
4. sharp corner or bulge exists on the top
of pulley groove 4. replace belt pulley and
check the belt
5. rubber ages
5. replace belt

Belt skids 1. inadequate belt tension 1. check and replace


tensioner if necessary
2. belt or pulley is exposed to materials
that can reduce friction (belt filler, 2. replace belt and clean
engine oil, ethylene and glycol) belt pulley

3. bearing of driven parts is broken 3. replace broken part or


(seizure) bearing

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4. heat or over-skidding polishes and 4. replace belt


hardens belt

Belt cannot keep 1. incorrect belt tension 1. check or replace


working on correct tensioner if necessary
2. belt pulley’s tolerance is out of limit
position of belt pulley
2. replace belt pulley
3. foreign matter exist in pulley groove
3. eliminate foreign matter
4. belt pulleys do not align
from groove
5. belt’s heart rope brakes
4.align parts

5. replace belt

Belt brakes 1. incorrect belt’s tension 1. check and replace


tensioner if necessary
2. heart rope is broken during
installation 2. replace belt

3. seriously unaligned 3. replace belt pulley

4. support, belt or bearing is broken 4. replace broken parts or


belt

Noise 1. incorrect belt’s tension 1. check or replace


tensioner if necessary
(harsh noise or squeak) 2. bearing’s noise
2. check and repair
3. unaligned belt
3. adjust and align the belt
4. belt and pulley cannot match with
each other 4. install the correct belt

5. driven parts cause vibration 5. find the flawed driven


parts and repair
6. belt’s flat surface separates
6. replace the belt

Failure (woven fabric 1. tensioner’s cover layers make contact 1. replace belt, and avoid
around the belt is with fixed object contact with fixed object
broken or separates
2. woven fabric ages due to overheat 2. replace belt
from belt)

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3. the joints of belt’s cover layer are 3. replace belt


broken

Failure of cord’s edge 1. belt’s tension force is incorrect 1. check or replace


(the elastic part of tensioner if necessary
2. belt makes contact with fixed objects
belt’s edge is exposed
2. replace belt and avoid
or separates from the 3. one or multiple pulley(s) is(are) out of
contact with fixed objects
belt tolerance
3. replace pulleys
4. the adhesion force between elastic
part and rubber is inadequate 4. replace belt

The tightening torque of bolts in front drive system

Accessory Quantity Standard Tightening remark


1025 system
torque

Hexagon 1 Fixing generator’s upper


Q1841055F61 30±4
flange bolt part

Hexagon Fixing generator’s bottom


Q18410130F61 1 30±4
flange bolt part

Nut Fixing generator’s bottom


Q361C10T2F61 1
part

Hexagon Fixing composite scaffold


Q1851035F61 1 45±5
flange bolt

Hexagon Fixing composite scaffold


Q1851060F61 3 45±5
flange bolts

Power Fixing power steering


1025201FD020 steering 1 M8×1.25 23±3 pump
pump’s bolt I

Hexagon Fixing power steering


Q32008F61 1 23±3
flange bolt pump

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Power Fixing power steering


1025202FD020 steering 1 M8×1.25 23±3 pump
pump’s bolt II

Idle pulley I
1025400FD020 1 M10×1.5 35±5
(fixing bolt)

Idle pulley II
1025800FD020 1 M10×1.5 35±5
(fixing bolt)

Fixing bolt of
1025300FD020 1 M10×1.5 50±5
tensioner

Hexagon Fixing vacuum pump


Q1840625F61 4 8±1
flange bolts

Q1200818F61 Studs 4 23±3 Fixing fan

Hexagon Fixing fan


Q32008F61 4 23±3
flange nuts

Hexagon Fixing fan support


Q1840845F61 4 23±3
flange bolts

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III Timing system

3.1 system diagram

1. sprocket chamber’s cover

2. sprocket chamber

3. sprocket chamber’s gasket

4. camshaft sprocket

5. high-pressure oil-pump sprocket

6. crankshaft’s timing sprocket

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7. level-1 moving rail

8. level-1 still rail

9. auto-tensioner

10. level-1 chain

11. level-2 chain

12. level-2 moving rail

13. level-2 still rail I

14. level-2 still rail II

15. locating sleeve of sprocket chamber’s cover

3.2 Disassembly

1) Wrench the auto-tensioner clockwise, take off


the belt and disassemble the auto-tensioner. Check
whether any crack, abnormal abrasion or fall-off
exists on the belt.

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2) Disassemble the air compressor and its support

3) Loosen the generator’s fixing bolt, and take


off the generator

4) Disassemble the cooling fan, and its belt

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

Engine’s Mechanical System

pulley and support.

5) Fix the crankshaft, loosen the fixing bolt of


damping pulley and dismantle the damping pulley

6) Dismantle the idle pulley I and II.

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

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7) Dismantle the power steering pump assembly

8) Loosen the fixing bolt of sprocket chamber’s


cover, and take off the cover

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9) Turn the crankshaft and check the timing situation of fuel-injection


pump’s sprocket and camshaft’s sprocket. There are three timing marker (copper
sheets) on the level-2 timing chain, which are corresponded to timing point of
air-inlet/outlet camshaft sprocket, and high-pressure oil pump sprocket. Loosen
the fixing bolts of auto-tensioner and take off auto-tensioner, level-2 chain,
level-2 moving rail, level-2 still rail I and II.

10) Loosen the fixing bolts of sprocket chamber and dismantle its cover.
Check the timing situation of crankshaft sprocket and high-pressure oil pump
sprocket. There are two timing marker on the level-1 chain. One is a copper
sheet mark and corresponds to the timing mark of crankshaft sprocket; the other
are three adjacent copper sheet mark and correspond to the timing mark of
high-pressure oil pump sprocket. Loosen the fixing bolts of auto-tensioner and
take off the tensioner, level-1 chain, level-1 moving rail and still rail.

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3.3 Check

1) Check the tooth gears of camshaft, crankshaft, fuel-injection pump and


auto-tensioner, and confirm whether any abnormal abrasion, crack, or damage
exists. Replace the gears if necessary

2) Check the exposed length of tensioner’s tappet (the plug is pulled off and
no oil-supply). If the exposed length is less than 6.4mm, then replace the
tensioner.

3.4 Installation

1) Install the level-1 chain

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཰ Turn the crankshaft with 90 degrees to the top center compression

position, in which the timing mark of crankshaft sprocket is located in the


vertical position

ཱ Align the slot of high-pressure oil pump sprocket with locating pin on

oil-pump shaft, then tighten and fix the blots. Align the timing mark of oil-pump
with the mark on oil-pump’s body

ི Assemble the level-1 chain and make sure

the timing mark on the chain aligns with that on the


sprocket (there are two timing marks on the level-1
chain. One is the copper sheet mark, which aligns
with the timing mark of crankshaft sprocket. The other are three copper sheet

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marks, which aligns with the timing mark of high-pressure oil-pump sprocket)

ཱི Install the level-1 still rail and moving rail

ུ Install the auto-tensioner

2) Install the sprocket chamber

཰ Thoroughly clear the glue on the oil-pump’s

body and sprocket chamber

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ཱ Check whether there is any knock mark,

scratch, glue or other foreign matter on the junction


surface of oil-pump’s body and sprocket chamber,
and make sure the surface is intact without foreign
matters.

ི Apply LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN 1590 surface silicon rubber sealant

to the junction surface of oil-pump body and sprocket chamber.

Notice: the sealant should be consecutive and even, and its diameter should
be 2mm.

ཱི Apply LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN 1590 surface silicon rubber sealant

to the joints of camshaft, cylinder head and sprocket chamber

ུ Fix and tighten the fixing bolt of sprocket chamber. The tightening

order should be cross-tightening, and clear the excessive sealant.

3) Install the level-2 chain

཰ Use special timing tool to fix the camshaft to the timing mark

ཱ Align the sprocket slot of air inlet/outlet camshaft with camshaft’s

locating pin. Place the sprocket into camshaft journal, and tighten the fixing
bolts

ི Assemble the level-2 chain and promise the chain’s timing mark aligns

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with the sprocket mark, under the prerequisite that the timing marks of two
camshafts and sprocket chamber aligns with each other.

ཱི Assemble the level-2 still rail I and II, and install level-2 moving rail

and auto-tensioner.

4) Install the cover of sprocket chamber

཰ Clean the glue on the sprocket chamber and its

cover

ཱ Check whether any bump, scratch, glue or

other foreign matters exists on the junction surface of


sprocket chamber and its cover. Make sure the
junction surface is intact without foreign matters.

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ི Apply LOCTITE 5900 or TONSAN 1590 surface silicon rubber sealant

to the junction surface of sprocket chamber and its cover

Notice: the sealant should be consecutive and even, and the diameter
should be 2mm

ཱི Install and tighten the fixing bolts of sprocket chamber. The tightening

order should be cross-tightening. Clean out excessive sealant.

Table of tightening torque of bolts in timing system

Timing system Standar Tightening Remark


1021 Quantity
d torque

Fixing bolts of M12×1.


1021024FB 2 140±5
camshaft sprocket 5

Fixing bolt of M10×1.


1021034FD020 1 35±5
moving rail 5

Fixing bolts of still M8×1.2


1021035FD020 4 23.5±4.5
rail 5

Fixing nut of
M14×1.
1007073FA040 high-pressure 1 65ᨺ70
5
oil-pump

Hexagon socket Fixing level-2


Q218B0612 2 8±1
screw chain’s still rail II

Hexagon flange Fixing level-2


Q1840650 2 10±1
bolts tensioner

Hexagon flange Fixing level-1


Q1840640 2 10±1
bolts tensioner

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Hexagon flange Fixing sprocket


Q1840630F61 11 10±1
bolts chamber cover

Hexagon flange Fixing sprocket


Q1840625F61 4 10±1
bolts chamber cover

Hexagon flange Fixing sprocket


Q1840660F61 1 10±1
bolt chamber cover

Hexagon flange Fixing the bottom


Q1840845F61 bolts 6 23±3 of sprocket
chamber

Hexagon flange Fixing the bottom


M10×1.
Q1850870F61 bolts 4 23±3 of sprocket
25
chamber

Hexagon flange Fixing the top of


Q1840820 2 18±2
bolts sprocket chamber

Hexagon flange Fixing the top of


Q1840620 9 8±1
bolts sprocket chamber

Studs Fixing the top of


Q1200620F3 2 8±1
sprocket chamber

Nuts Fixing the top of


Q32006 2 8±1
sprocket chamber

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IV. Air-inlet and air-exhaust system

4.1 System diagram

Air inlet system:

1. gasket of air-inlet pipe 2. air-inlet manifold assembly 3. support


of air-inlet manifold 4. EGR and cooler assembly 5. EGR water-return hose

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Maintenance Manual of 2.0CTI Diesel Engine

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Air exhaust system:

1. gasket of air-exhaust manifold 2. air-exhaust manifold 3. support of


air-exhaust manifold

4. super-charger 5. support of super-charger 6. thermal shroud I, II of


air-exhaust pipe

7. catalyst assembly

4.2 Assembly and disassembly of air-inlet system

1) Dismantle the EGR’s cooling water-inlet and water-return pipe

2) Dismantle the EGR corrugated pipe

3) Dismantle the support of air-inlet manifold

4) Disassemble the EGR and cooler assembly

5) Loosen the fixing bolts of air-inlet manifold,

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and dismantle the air-inlet manifold assembly and the gasket of air-inlet pipe

6) During the installation of air-inlet system, please follow the reverse


order of disassembly.

Notice: check whether all spare parts are intact, and all pipes are clear.

4.3 Assembly and disassembly of air-exhaust system

1) Dismantle the thermal shroud and support of air-exhaust manifold

2) Dismantle the fixing bolts of air-exhaust manifold, and take off the
air-exhaust manifold and catalyst assembly

3) Check whether the surface of turbo-charger’s impeller is smooth without


abrasion. Check whether the impeller’s axial clearance is excessive, or the
impeller runs smoothly. If any failure exists, replace the turbo booster, and check
whether any leakage exists in the spare parts or pipeline of air-inlet system, so as
to prevent the booster from damage.

4) During the installation of air-exhaust system, please follow the reverse


order of disassembly.

Notice: check whether all spare parts are intact, and all pipes are clear.

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Table of tightening torque of bolts in air-inlet and air-exhaust system

Intake manifold Remark


Tightening
1008 Quantity Standard
assembly torque

Throttle body valve’s


1008202FB 4 M6×1.0×60 8±1
studs

Hexagon flange bolts Fixing


Q32008F61 2 18±2 air-intake
manifold

Hexagon flange bolts Fixing air


Q32006F61 4 8±1
control valve

Hexagon flange bolts Fixing


Q1840830F61 9 18±2
air-intake valve

Hexagon flange bolts Fixing EGR


Q1840825F61 5 18±2
assembly

Q1840816F61 Hexagon flange bolts 4 18±2 Fixing T-MAP

Hexagon flange bolt Fixing harness


Q1840620F61 1 8±1
support

Q1840612F61 Hexagon flange bolts 2 8±1

1044

1044019FB010 2 M10×1.5 45±5

1044012FD020 1 M10×1.5 45±5

1044017FB 3 M10×1.5 45±5

1044018FB 10 M8×1.25 30±5

Fixing
1044021FB 8 M8×1.25 23±3 thermal-proof
cover

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Connecting
1044402FD020 1 8±1
with booster

1044403FD020 4 M8×1.25 19±3 After-sale use

1044404FD020 4 M8×1.25 19±3

Connecting

1044021FD020 1 M8×1.25 23±3 booster and its


support

Connecting

Q1840820F61 2 23±3 booster support


and cylinder body

4.4 Assessment of oil leakage on turbo booster’s impeller

If the turbo booster doesn’t work well, check the situation of booster’s
impeller first and confirm whether the impeller’s situation is normal. If the
impellers work well, then carry out the following checks: oil leakage check of
booster’s compressor end, oil leakage check of booster’s turbine end, and check
of booster’s abnormal noise.

1) Check method when the booster’s impellers are damaged by foreign


matters

Remove the failed booster from the engine and check the damage situation
of turbine and impellers. Check whether any trace of foreign matter exists, or
any foreign matter exist in the air-inlet and air-exhaust end of booster.

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Normal impeller impeller damaged by hard objects

Impeller damaged by particulates Impeller damaged by particulates

Liability judgment:

All failures of booster’s impellers are not caused by the booster’s internal
quality problems, but the user’s responsibility, inappropriate maintenance or
operations.

The possible reasons are listed as follow:

཰ the booster hasn’t been maintained for a long time

ཱ inferior filter

ི the pipeline between oil-gas separator and air-inlet tube is unplugged,

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and air enters into turbo booster without filtration, so that the impellers are
damaged by dust.

2) Check method when oil leakage exists on booster’s compressor end

཰ oil leakage at compressor end due to turbo booster’s internal reasons

A: booster’s impellers are damaged

B: impellers are stagnated or booster’s axle is worn

ཱ oil leakage at compressor end due to other reasons

Many factors are relevant to oil leakage at compressor end. Sometimes it is


not the booster’s internal failure, but other factors that cause oil leakage. The
possible reasons come as follow:

A: machine oil enters into the air-inlet tube of crankshaft’s breath system

B: blocking exists in the booster’s breathing system

C: air leakage exists in the pipeline between booster’s compressor and


engine’s air-inlet tube

D: the booster’s oil-return is not fluent

E: the engine runs in idle speed for long time

ི Check method when oil leakage exists in the turbo booster’s

compressor end

A: check the impellers’ situation

The impeller’s situation can be checked visually through its appearance.

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The normal vane angle doesn’t have rounded corners. If rounded corner exists, it
indicates that tiny particulates exist in the inlet air of booster, as the picture
shown below. As the impeller is a part that rotates in high-speed, even the tiny
particulates in the inlet air will cause high-speed friction, and lead to rounded
corner. Also, these tiny particulates will enter into the internal parts of booster,
accelerate its wear and cause booster’s oil leakage.

Liability judgment:

If the oil leakage happens with impeller’s rounded corner exists, then it can
be confirmed that the inlet-air’s inferior quality leads to the oil leakage, which is
the user’s responsibility, not the booster’s internal quality problem

The possible reasons are listed as follow:

a: the filter hasn’t been maintained for long time or broken, when causes
the air enters into booster directly

b: inferior filter

c: the pipeline between oil-gas separator and air-inlet tube is unplugged,


and air enters into turbo booster without filtration, so that the impellers are
damaged by dust.

Note: if the rounded corner is tiny, it is unnecessary to replace the booster,


but the engine’s air-inlet system still needs to be checked. Check whether the air
filter and air-inlet line are clean, and replace filter or clean air-inlet pipeline if
necessary.

B: check whether the impellers are stagnated

If the booster’s impellers work normally, please check whether there is


intervention between booster’s impeller and case, as the picture shown below. If

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the intervention exists in booster, the impeller’s rotating speed will reduce
sharply or even stop running, which makes booster unable to compress the air.
Meanwhile, as the engine keeps bringing air, the compressor will turn from
positive pressure to negative pressure, which will suck the engine oil inside the
booster from the seal ring of rotor shaft.

Intervention between impeller and booster case serious intervention between impeller and case

Rotate the impeller with hand and check whether any intervention or
stagnation exists. If yes, hold the impeller’s two sides with fingers, and waggle
the impeller in different directions. If the impeller shaft’s axial or radial
clearance is excessive, or the impeller can reach the booster’s case, it indicates
the abrasion has exceeded the limit, which means the booster is broken.

If abrasion exists on the booster’s impeller shaft, the axial and radial
clearance of impeller shaft will increase, meanwhile the booster’s oil leakage
will increase. The leakage quantity depends on the abrasion loss. With more
abrasion comes bigger axial or radial clearance, which lead to more leak
quantity.

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If the impellers are jammed and no intervention exists, it means the


impeller shaft has been locked.

Liability judgment:

If the intervention exists, but the impeller shaft’s axial and radial clearance
is normal, then the responsibility lies on the booster’s internal quality problem

If the intervention exists and the impeller shaft’s clearance exceeds the
limit, it indicates the excessive shaft abrasion leads to the intervention.
Unqualified machine oil and inappropriate maintenance should be the main
factors,and the liability is on user’s side.

The impeller shaft’s blocking is also relevant to machine oil’s quality and
booster’s maintenance, which is the user’s liability and irrelevant to the
booster’s quality.

The booster axle’s rotating speed is very fast, so unqualified machine oil or
foreign materials will accelerate the wear rate. During the wearing process, the
axial clearance will be larger, and the axle may be blocked.

C. Check whether machine oil enters into the booster’s intake-pipe

Dismantle the intake-pipe of compressor, and check whether the machine


oil exists inside the pipe or air-inlet. If the oil exists in both the pipe and air-inlet,
it indicates the residual machine oil has entered into the booster, so that the oil
also appears in inter-cooling system, which leads to the false appearance of
booster’s oil leakage. Because one end crankcase’s ventilation hose is connected
to engine’s cylinder head cover, some machine oil will be exhausted through the
hose with the crankcase’s exhaust gas. Meanwhile, the hose’s other end will
connect with the booster’s intake-pipe, which also makes the false appearance of
booster’s oil leakage.

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If the checking method mentioned above cannot solve the problem, please
disconnect the breath hose and cylinder head cover, and plug up the hose with
cork. Then clean the booster and all pipelines, connect all parts and carry out the
test drive. If no machine oil exists in inter-cooling system, then it can be
confirmed that the oil inside the breath system enters into the booster. Should
some machine oil still exists, it means breath system is irrelevant to the oil
leakage, and further checks are necessary to be implemented.

Liability judgment:

The oil inside the crankcase’s ventilation hose will leads to the false
appearance of booster’s oil leakage if it enters into booster. In this situation, the
booster itself is in normal condition and is unnecessary to be replaced. Just solve
the problem of crankcase’s over-pressure.

D. Check whether any jamming exists in the booster’s air-intake system

Serious jamming inside the booster’s air intake system will cause negative
effects on engine’s dynamic performance, while tiny jamming may not. If both
the engine’s poor performance and booster’s oil leakage exists, it indicates the
air intake system may be blocked. Tiny jamming will not affect engine’s power,
but all kinds of jamming will cause booster’s oil leakage. If booster’s air-intake
is blocked, the intake vacuum will increase and compressor’s exhausting
pressure will decrease. The machine oil will be sucked out by low intake
pressure through booster’s split ring.

Liability judgment:

If the booster’s oil leakage is caused by the jamming of air intake system,
then the booster is normal without damage and is unnecessary to be replaced.
Eliminating the choke point is necessary:

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a. Check whether the filter is dirty or blocked;

b. Check the pipeline between air filter and booster’s air-inlet, and
eliminate the jamming if necessary;

Note: the jamming part often stays in the air filter.

E. Air leakage exists in the pipeline of booster’s compressor and engine’s


air intake pipe

If air leakage appears in engine’s inter-cooling pipeline, as is shown in


picture 16, the compressor’s pressure will decrease. The pressure of turbine and
compressor will be imbalanced, and oil leakage will appear in booster.
Meanwhile, some machine oil will be exhausted with the compressed air
through the leakage point. It will attach to the leakage point and cause ugly
appearance.

Also, sometimes oil leakage exists in the juncture of intake-tube and inlet
elbow, as this part hasn’t been installed with gasket. This will greatly reduce the
inlet-air’s pressure and lead to further serious leakage.

Please check every juncture of inter-cooling pipeline, if the machine oil


attaches to the juncture point, it means leakage exists at this point and needs to
be eliminated.

If no apparent leakage point is spotted, please check the hidden part of


pipeline and inter-cooler. Use your hands to feel the leakage point. The
inter-cooler’s installing position may bring difficulties to the leakage point check,
so if necessary, remove the inter-cooler from the vehicle and check carefully.
You can use water to check the leakage by plugging up the cooler from one end
and filling up water, then check the water level. If the level decreases, then the
leakage exists. Judging the leakage by observing whether any water leaks from

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the inter-cooler is also acceptable.

Liability judgment:

If the booster’s oil leakage is caused by the air leakage of inter-cooling


pipeline, it is irrelevant to the booster’s internal quality problem and there is no
need to replace the booster. You can solve the oil leakage by handling the air
leakage point.

F. Booster’s slack oil-return

When the booster’s oil-return is slack, the oil pressure inside the booster
will increase, and oil will leak from the split ring of turbine and compressor. If
the oil leakage is serious, the oil in the oil pan will greatly reduce.

a: check whether the crankcase’s internal pressure is excessive. As the


booster’s oil-return depends on gravity, excessive pressure inside the crankcase
will obstruct the oil-return. When the engine runs for some time, unplug the
dipstick and check whether there is gas injection. If yes, then the crankcase’s
pressure is excessive.

b: check whether the booster’s oil-return pipe blocks. Observe whether the
oil-return hose twists, as the twisted hose will affect the oil-return. If the hose is
normal, remove the oil-return pipe and check carefully.

Liability judgment:

If the oil leakage is caused by booster’s slack oil-return, it means the


booster doesn’t have internal quality problem and is unnecessary to be replaced.
Solve the jamming part of oil-return pipe and the engine will back to normal
condition. Of course, the jamming of oil-return pipe will cause serious oil
leakage in booster, so clean the machine oil in booster and inter-cooling pipeline

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thoroughly.

G: the engine works in idling speed for a long time

When the engine works in idling speed for long time, the air pressure inside
the compressor will be lower while the pressure of inter-body will be higher.
This will make machine oil leaks from the split ring of impeller. Also, when the
engine works in idling situation, the turbine’s side surface may leak oil.

If all checks mentioned above is OK, it is necessary to watch out the use’s
habits. Users may make engine work in idling speed for long time. Please
inquire user’s usage habit, and inform users not run the engine in idling situation
for long time.

Liability judgment:

The booster is unnecessary to be replaced if the booster’s oil leakage is


caused by engine’s long-time operation in idle speed, as the booster doesn’t have
internal quality problems.

3) checking method for the leakage on booster’s turbine end

཰ turbo booster’s internal reason

A: turbine’s impellers are damaged;

B: turbine’s impellers are stagnated;

C: booster’s axle is worn

ཱ other reasons

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Oil leakage at turbine’s end is relevant to many factors, and sometimes it is


not the booster’s internal quality, but other factors that cause the leakage. The
relevant factors are listed as follow:

A: the engine works in idle situation for long time;

B: the booster’s slack oil-return;

C: engine’s serious oil leakage makes machine oil enter into turbine motor
from exhaust pipe

ི oil leakage of booster’s turbine end

A: turbine’s impellers are damaged

B: turbine’s impellers are stagnated

C: turbo booster’s shaft is worn

D: the engine works in idle situation for long time

E: booster’s oil-return is slack

All failures above are similar to the oil leakage of booster’s compressor.
Please refer to “Check method when oil leakage exists in the turbo booster’s
compressor end” for details

F: the machine oil enters from exhaust pipe to booster’s turbine motor due
to engine’s serious oil leakage

When engine’s oil leakage is serious, extra engine oil may enter into
booster’s turbine motor from exhaust pipe, which causes the false appearance of
oil leakage in booster’s turbine motor. At this time, please check whether the
machine oil leaks from turbine’s end or somewhere else. Meanwhile, check

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whether any machine oil exists on the air-inlet of booster’s turbine motor. If yes,
then the oil enters into turbine motor through engine’s exhaust pipe. If not, then
there is no machine oil in the exhaust pipe, or the oil doesn’t have effects on
booster.

Note: check carefully whether oil leakage exists in compressor end or not.
If serious leakage exists in compressor end, some machine oil will enter into
cylinder from engine, while extra machine oil cannot be exhausted from exhaust
pipe.

Liability judgment:

If the machine oil leaks from exhaust pipe, it is irrelevant to the booster,
and there is no need to replace the booster.

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V. Lubrication System

5.1 System diagram

1. Booster’s oil-inlet 2. Oil pump 3. Oil cooler 4. Oil filter 5.


Oil sump assembly 6. Booster’s oil-return pipe 7. Oil strainer 8. Oil
dipstick

The 2.0CTI engine’s lubrication system consists of oil sump, oil pump,

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filter, oil-cooling module, pipelines and etc. The oil pump is external-gearing
type, which is driven by bent axle; the piston cooling jet is positioned on main
oil gallery so as to achieve steady oil-cooling, which can effectively reduce the
piston’s thermal load. The picture below is the sketch map of 2.0CTI’s
lubrication system.

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5.2 Disassembly and check

1) Open the engine’s oil filter cap, loosen the


purge cock on oil sump and exhaust the engine oil;

Note:

■ It is forbidden to operate procedures above


when the oil temperature hasn’t cooled down;

■ Put a basin below the cap to collect the engine


oil.

2) Loosen the tightening bolt of engine’s oil sump


and disassemble oil sump

3) Use special tools to remove oil filter, connecting


shaft and oil cooler.

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4) Loosen the tightening bolt, and remove oil pump


assembly

After disassembly, please check:

■ Whether any oil hole of pump’s case is blocked, and clean the holes if
necessary.

■ Whether any crack or other damage exists on pump’s case, and replace
the case of necessary.

■ Whether the oil seal is worn, broken or aged, and replace the oil seal if
necessary.

5.3 Assembly

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1) Clean the adhesive tape on engine body and oil pump assembly;

Note:

■ make sure there is no greasy dirt, scratch or foreign matters on the


junction surface of engine body and pump assembly

2) Apply Loctite5900 or TONSAN1590 surface sealing silicon sealant

Note:

■ the glue’s diameter should be 2±0.3mm, and the glue should be even
without accumulation

3) Tighten the tightening bolt of oil pump’s case and clean the extra sealant;

4) Install the oil strainer;

5) Install oil cooler and oil filter;

Note:

■ While installing oil filter, place the rubber seal ring into seal groove
uniformly. Apply some diesel engine oil on the ring before tightening to avoid

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oil leakage.

6) Apply Loctite 5900 and TONSAN1590 surface silicon sealant on the oil
sump assembly.

Note:

■ the glue’s diameter should be 2±0.3mm, and the glue should be even
without accumulation

7) Apply sealant on the side face of cylinder block to avoid oil leakage

8) Install the oil sump, and tighten the bolts of oil sump assembly in order

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List: tightening torque of all bolts in lubrication system

Lubrication Remark
Tightening
1010 Quantity Standard
system torque

Q1420820 Spring’s bolts 2 18±2 Fix filter assembly

Filter’s
1010303FD020 1 M20×1.5/2.0 30ᨺ36
tightening bolt

Bolt of

1010014FD020 booster’s 1 M10×1.25 25ᨺ31


oil-inlet tube

Hexagon flange Fixing oil pump


Q1840616 10 8±1
bolts assembly

Hexagon flange Fixing oil pump


Q1840820 2 23±3
bolts assembly

Hexagon Fixing oil pump


Q218B0840F61 1 23±3
socket screw assembly

Q218B0830F61 Hexagon 1 23±3 Fixing oil pump

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socket screw assembly

Hexagon Fixing oil pump


Q218B0825F61 3 23±3
socket screws assembly

Hexagon flange Fixing oil pump


Q1840835F61 1 23±3
bolt assembly

Hexagon flange Fix booster’s


Q1840620F61 4 10±1
bolts oil-return pipe

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VI. Valve mechanism

6.1 System diagram

1. Camshaft frame 2. Machined part (with valve container and conduit) 3.intake
valve 4. Exhaust valve 5. Valve key 6. Valve seat (above) 7. Valve spring 8.
Valve oil-seal 9. Valve seat (below)

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6.2 Disassembly

1) Loosen the tightening bolt of fuel injector’s tightening


block, and remove the fuel injector and injector’s tightening
block;

2) Loosen the tightening bolt of cylinder head’s cover, and


remove the cover of cylinder head;

3) Loosen the tightening bolt of camshaft frame. Slightly waggle, then dismantle the
camshaft and its frame;

4) Remove the rocker arm and hydraulic tappet, and place all parts separately;

5) Loosen the tightening bolt of cylinder head in order. Remove the bolts of cylinder
head and place them in order. Then remove the cylinder head and its gasket;

6) Use valve spring compressor to compress valve spring, then remove the locking plate,
valve spring and its retainer;

Note:

■ Make marks of cylinder number and position on the


dismantled valve, valve spring and other spare parts,
and mark the position of piston’s top center.

7) Use pliers to remove the valve’s oil-seal;

Notice:

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■ Do not re-use the valve’s oil-seal

6.3 Check after disassembly

1) Valve guide pipe

Check the clearance between valve rod and


guide pipe. Replace the air valve or cylinder head
if the clearance exceeds the limit. The standard
range and limitation are listed below:

Standard:

■ intake valve: 0.035-0.062mm

■ exhaust valve: 0.050-0.077mm

Limitation:

■ intake valve:0.1mm

■ exhaust valve:0.1mm

Restoration of valve retainer:

཰ Check whether the valve guide pipe is worn

or not by correction, and replace the cylinder head if


necessary. Then correct the retainer;

ཱ Use valve seat’s guide bar and reamer to

correct the valve seat;

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ི After correction, grind the valve and valve seat thoroughly with

abrasive taste

2) Check on cylinder head

཰ Check whether any crack, damage or leakage exists on cylinder head. If

the crack exists, please replace the cylinder head assembly;

ཱ Clean the foreign matters, residue and

carbon deposit thoroughly, and use


compressed air to ensure that the oil pipe
hasn’t been blocked.

ིCheck the flatness of cylinder head’s

base plane: put the flatness measuring instrument on the base plane and record
the figure. You can also put a ruler on the surface and use feeler gauge to
measure the clearance between ruler and surface. The flatness tolerance cannot
exceed 0.10mm.

Flatness of cylinder head:

■ standard clearance -- less than 0.05mm

■ maintenance limitation -- 0.1mm

ཱི Check whether any erosion or broken part exists on cylinder gasket, and

replace the gasket if necessary;

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ུ Check the surface of cam and shaft neck through visual observation,

and replace the camshaft if any abrasion or peeling exists;

Note:

■ the replaced gasket must be original, or the fault of incorrect compression


ratio may appear.

3) Check the camshaft

Measure the diameter of camshaft’s shaft neck:

The axial diameter of camshaft should be


F 25--00..040
053 , and the abrasion loss cannot exceed 0.05;

Measure the cam lift:

Use the micrometer to measure the cam’s height on the


peach-tip direction, and the cam’s base diameter on the cam’s
base direction. The cam lift’s figure is the difference value.

Measure the camshaft hole:

F 250+0.021
The diameter of camshaft hole should be ;

Note:

■ when measuring the camshaft hole, it is necessary to place the camshaft


frame on the cylinder head, and tighten the bolt with standard tightening torque.
Please use inside dial indicator or feeler gauge to measure the bore diameter.

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Calculate the clearance between camshaft hole and the camshaft’s axial
diameter. The clearance should range from 0.040 to 0.074, and the wear limit
should be 0.15mm.

6.4 Installation

1) Clean all spare parts, and apply oil on the parts which needs rotation or
movement during operation;

2) Use special tools to install the new valve oil-seal to the specified
position;

3) Apply machine oil on every air-valve, insert the air-valve into guide pipe.
Do not use too much force to insert the air-valve into oil-seal. After insertion,
check whether the air-valve can move smoothly;

4) When installing valve springs, make the painted end towards the spring’s
upper seat;

5) Use appropriate tools to compress the air and install the valve key. After
installing air-valve, check whether the valve key is installed correctly;

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Note:

■ before installation, spot test should be carried out on the elasticity of each
batch of valve spring, and the elasticity’s tolerance range should meet the
demand of blueprint

■ the valve key should be installed correctly. After installation, use wooden
or plastic hammer to knock the valve rod’s end lightly to ensure the valve key is
installed in right position.

For the fitted valve seat and air-valve, it is necessary to carry out leakage
check with special instruments;

6) Install the hydraulic tappet and valve rocker;

Note:

■ before installation, make sure there is no stagnation among hydraulic


tappet, valve rocker and clips

7) Apply Loctite 5900 or TONSAN 1590surface silicon sealant on the joint


surface of cylinder head and camshaft frame;

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Note:

■ the sealant’s diameter should be 1.5±0.3mm, and the sealant should be


even without interruption or accumulation.

8) Install the camshaft and its frame, tighten the bolts by following the order below, and
wipe the redundant glue thoroughly;

Tightening torque: 18±2N·m

Note:

■ after the two surfaces contact with each other, make sure there is no more
large relative sliding

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9) Measure the camshaft’s axial clearance:

While moving the camshaft in axial direction, use dial indicator to measure
the axial clearance.

Note:

■ the standard range of camshaft’s axial clearance: 0.08-0.177mm

■ if the axial clearance is excessive, then replace the cylinder head if


necessary. If the camshaft’s thrust surface is broken, then replace the camshaft.

10) Make the cylinder gasket’s marked side


towards the cylinder head’s direction;

11) Align the cylinder head to the locating pin


carefully, and install the cylinder head on the engine
body;

12) Tighten the cylinder head’s bolts by


following the order. If the torque is not in
controlling range, replace the bolt and carry out the
above procedures again.

Tightening procedures:

᧤50±2᧥N·m + loosen +᧤50±2᧥N·m +᧤90±2᧥°+᧤90±2᧥°+᧤90±2᧥°+

᧤90±2᧥°

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VII. Crankshaft Connecting System

7.1 System diagram

1. Damping pulley 2. Crankshaft’s timing sprocket 3. Connecting rod


4. Piston 5. Crankshaft 6. Flywheel ring gear 7. Signal panel of
crankshaft’s rotate speed 8. Flywheel

7.2 Main shaft bushing

1) Selection of main shaft bushing

Choose the bearing bush by referring to the group number of main journal
and main bearing. If these parts cannot be identified by size, or the main
bearings suffer abrasion,then it is necessary to measure the crankshaft’s main

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journal, and choose the bearing bush according to practical size and fit tolerance.

Selection scheme of engine’s main bearing bush

size Hole of Main shaft Main shaft


Crankshaft’s
engine’s main bushing’s bushing’s Fit clearance
scheme main journal
bearing upper part bottom part

60 -0.006 ᧤1᧥ 2 -0.018 ᧤red᧥


0 -0.013
1 0.026ᨺ0.048

-0.008
2 -0.013
᧤1᧥ 60 -0.012 ᧤2᧥
+0.006 -0.006
2 64 0 0.027ᨺ0.049
2 -0.018 ᧤red᧥
-0.013
᧤yellow᧥

60 -0.018 ᧤3᧥ 2 -0.008᧤blue᧥


-0.012 -0.003
3 0.028ᨺ0.05

60 -0.006 ᧤1᧥ 2 -0.018 ᧤red᧥


0 -0.013
4 0.027ᨺ0.049

-0.008
2 -0.013
64 + 0.006 ᧤2᧥ 60 -0.012 ᧤2᧥
+0.012 -0.006
5 0.028ᨺ0.05
-0.008
᧤yellow᧥
2 -0.013
᧤yellow᧥ 60 -0.018 ᧤3᧥ 2 -0.008᧤blue᧥
-0.012 -0.003
6 0.029ᨺ0.051

60 -0.006 ᧤1᧥ 2 -0.018 ᧤red᧥


0 -0.013
7 0.028ᨺ0.05

-0.008
2 -0.013
64 + 0.012 ᧤3᧥ 2 -0.008᧤blue᧥ 60 -0.012 ᧤2᧥
+0.018 -0.003 -0.006
8 0.029ᨺ0.051
᧤yellow᧥

60 -0.018 ᧤3᧥ 2 -0.008᧤blue᧥


-0.012 -0.003
9 0.03ᨺ0.052

2) Group number’s printing position

཰ printing position for main journal: on the crankshaft’s first

counterbalance block.

“B” means the beginning, the first four numbers correspond to rod journal’s
group, and the five numbers after correspond to crankshaft journal’s group

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ཱ printing position for main spindle bore:air intake grid

The first four numbers correspond to the internal diameter of cylinder bore,
and the five numbers after correspond to the internal diameter of main spindle
bore.

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View illustration of P side

7.3 Disassembly

1) Use flywheel lock to lock the flywheel, loosen


the flywheel’s connecting bolt and remove the flywheel

assembly᧷

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2) Remove the crankshaft’s rear oil-seal oil-seal


frame;

3) Remove the cylinder head, please refer to


“valve mechanism” chapter;

4) Dismantle the crankcase’s stiffening plate;

5) Dismantle the connecting rod bolt, take off the piston rods and place the
rods in order;

Note:

■ during the assembly process, the piston rod


assembly, which is in the same cylinder, should be
installed on the original one. So we advise you to
mark the spare parts or place them in order, and
prevent misassembly.

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6) Loosen the bolts of main bearing cover;

7) Take off the main bearing cover, main bearing


bolts, and place them in order;

8) Turn the crankshaft and take out the thrust plate;


remove the crankshaft and push out the main shaft
bushing, then check whether abnormal abrasion exists
on the crankshaft’;s signal plate;

9) Loosen the fixing bolts and remove the piston’s

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cooling jet.

7.4 Check and measurement

1) Crankshaft

Wash and clean the crankshaft thoroughly,and dry the oil hole with
compressed air. Measure the main journal and rod journal.

Standard value:

■ diameter of main journal: F600-0.019 mm ;

■ diameter of rod journal: F500-0.016 mm ;

Calculate the clearance between crankshaft’s main journal and the hole of
main spindle bush: the fit clearance is the difference value of main journal’s
diameter and main spindle bush hole’s diameter.

■ the standard fit clearance range is 0.026-0.053mm, and the abrasion


limitation is 0.15mm.

Note:

■ when measuring the diameter of the main spindle bushing hole, please
assemble the bearing cover and bearing bush on the bearing pedestal, and use
standard torque to fix the bolts. Then use internal dial gauge to measure the pore

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diameter.

2) Bearing bush

The anti-wear material on the bearing bush’s surface cannot be scratched or


embedded with foreign materials; pay attention to the lubrication, or the bearing
bush may be jammed or the anti-wear material may peel off; during re-assembly
process, please keep all spare parts clean.

Measure the oil-film clearance:

Oil-film clearance is figured out by comparing main journal’s external


diameter and bearing bush’s internal diameter.

Standard value:

■ crankshaft’s main bearing bush: 0.026-0.053mm

■ connecting rod’s bearing bush: 0.024-0.046mm

■ limitation: 0.15mm

The usage of plastic measure gauge

Generally, we use plastic measure gauge to


measure the oil-film clearance. First, clean out the
machine oil, grease and other foreign matters on
bearing bush and main journal, then put in the plastic
measure gauge which has the same width of main
bearing bush, keep it parallel to the journal and avoid machine oil hole.
Assemble the crankshaft, main bearing bush and main bearing cover, and tighten
them with standard torque. During this process, do not rotate the crankshaft.

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Take down the main bearing cap, and measure its width by identifying the
widest trace left on the plastic measure gauge. If the measured figure of oil-film
clearance exceeds the limitation, then it is necessary to replace the bearing bush,
or apply the one with a smaller size.

Note:

■ when installing new crankshaft, be sure to use the bearing bush with
standard size. If the oil-film clearance cannot reach standard after replacing
bearing bush, then it is necessary to reduce the size of main journal and rod
journal. Meanwhile, please choose the bearing bush with corresponding size.

3) Check the cylinder bore:

When the abrasion of engine’s cylinder bore


reaches some degrees, the engine’s technical
performance will deteriorate, with reduced power and
increased fuel/lubricating oil consumption. Generally,
the cylinder bore’s abrasion degree can be detected by
measuring cylinder’s cylindricity and roundness after
abrasion.

Checking method of cylinder’s cylindricity and roundness:

཰ choose appropriate extension rod according to the size of cylinder

bore’s diameter, and fix the rod on the bottom part of cylinder bore gauge

ཱ adjust the bore gauge’s size, and measure the sections of upper edge,

middle part and bottom edge with cylinder bore gauge. Each section should be
measured twice. One is parallel to the crankshaft’s axial direction, the other is
perpendicular to the axial direction.

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Note:

■ while using cylinder bore gauge, the


measuring bar should perpendicular to cylinder’s axis,
or the figure may be inaccurate.

ི figure out the error of roundness and

cylindricity. The roundness error equals to the half difference value of maximum
and minimum diameter, which are measured from the same section; the
cylindricity error equals to the half difference value of maximum and minimum
diameter, which are measured from any direction on the cylinder surface.

When the cylinder’s roundness error exceeds 0.04mm, or the cylintricity


error exceeds 0.08mm, please replace the cylinder body.

The group number of new cylinder bore’s internal diameter, which are four
four capital letters, is printed on engine body’s bottom surface. The cylinders are
sorted from first to fourth in alphabetical order. The piston’s external diameter,
by referring to the demand of cylinder-fitting clearance, is determined by bore
hole’s diameter. Please refer the sheet for details.

size Cylinder Piston’s


Cylinder-fitting
bore’s external
clearance
scheme diameter diameter

-0.07
A 83 0+0.01 83 - 0.08

+0.02 -0.06
B 83 + 0.01 83 - 0.07 0.07ᨺ0.09

+0.03 +0.03 -0.05


C 83 + 0.02+ 0.02 83 - 0.06

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■ the oil clearance between piston and cylinder bore: 0.07-0.09mm, and the
limitation is 0.15mm.

4) Check the flatness of engine body’s upper surface. If the figure exceeds
the limitation, replace the upper surface.

■ standard value: 0-0.55mm

■ limitation: 0.1mm

Note:

■ when installing cylinder head, it is acceptable when the abrasion doesn’t


exceed 0.2mm

7.5 Assembly

1) Install the piston’s cooling jet: install the


piston’s cooling jet on the engine body, and tighten the
inner hexagon screws. Tightening torque:
12.5±2.5N·m;

2) Assemble upper main shaft bearing: align the


seam of upper main shaft bearing to the slip groove of
engine’s main bearing seat, and assemble the five upper
main shaft bushing in place;

Note:

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■ when assembling main shaft bushing, please identify the upper and
bottom bushing. The upper part has oil groove while the bottom part doesn’t
have. Misassembly is unacceptable.

3) Assemble bottom main shaft bushing: align the seam of bottom main
shaft bearing to the slip groove of engine’s main bearing seat, and assemble the
five bottom main shaft bushing in place;

4) Apply some cleaning machine oil on the upper bearing bush; assemble
the crankshaft on engine’s body.

Assemble thrust plate: hold the thrust plate’s positioning end, place the
plate in the clearance of positioning surface and crankshaft, rotate the plate until
the positioning end stops at the positioning surface of thrust plate;

Note:

■ during assembly, place the end with oil groove outside.

5) Add oil: add cleaning machine oil on the crankshaft’s main journal, main
shaft bushing and thrust plate. Rotate the crankshaft and check whether it rotates
smoothly; assemble the five main bearing cover in order and correct position;
slightly knock the main bearing cover to check whether the assembly is in
position;

6) Place the bolts of main bearing cover, which


are applied with machine oil, and pre-screw 2-3
threads; tighten the bolts of main bearing cover one by
one, from the middle part to both ends. Please apply
monitoring method of torque control and angle, and the
tightening torque and angle range should be:

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᧤32±2N·m᧥+135°±2°;

Note:

■ during assembly, ensure all main bearing covers correspond to main


bearing seat by referring marks, and pay attention to the direction during
assembly.

7) Check the crankshaft’s axial shift

■ the axial clearance range is : 0.02-0.19mm

When the crankshaft moves to the dead-end with


scale indicator, check the clearance between middle
main shaft bushing and crank arm.

■standard: 0.05-0.18mm

■ limitation: 0.25mm

If the measured figure exceeds the limit, replace


the middle main shaft bushing, and measure the
clearance again. If the figure still exceeds limit, please
replace the crankshaft until the axial shift meets the
standard.

8) Use special tools to assemble the new oil-seal into the engine’s rear part,
and the tightening torque is 10-12N.m;

9) Assemble the rear dam-board on the engine body. Install the flywheel
assembly and tighten the flywheel bolts. The standard torque: 75±5 N·m.

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List: tightening torque of all fastening bolts

Cylinder block
Quan Remark
1002 Standard Tightening torque
group tity

Hexagon flange Assemble the

Q1840816 bolts 16 23±2 crankshaft


case

Hexagon flange Crankshaft’s


Q1840816F61 bolts 6 23±2 rear oil-seal
frame

Tightening bolt
1002027FB of piston’s 4 M6×1.0×14 10ᨺ15
cooler jet

Hexagon flange Crankshaft’s

Q1840612F61 bolt 1 10±1 position


sensor

Bolts of ᧤50±2᧥N·m+㨍㆏+
cylinder cover ᧤50±2᧥N·m+
1002041FD020 10 M12×1.25×166
᧤90±2᧥°+᧤90±2᧥°+
᧤90±2᧥°+᧤90±2᧥°

Tightening
᧤35±2᧥N·m+
1002104FD020 bolts of main 10 M11×1.5×85
᧤135±2᧥°
bearing cover

Blocking of
cylinder block’s
1002106FB 1 R2 1/8 20±2
chain
oil-gallery

Blocking of

1002107FB cylinder block’s 1 R2 3/8 35±5


main oil-gallery

1002109FB Cylinder 1 R2 1/4 25±3

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block’s
drainage bolt

Crankshaft’s

1005 flywheel
assembly

Crankshaft’s
1005014FB 1 M16×1.5×60 190±10
tightening bolt

Hexagon Fix the signal

Q2580614 lobular socket 3 10±1 wheel


sunk screws

Flywheel’s
1005018FB010 8 75±5
tightening bolts

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VIII Piston rod assembly

8.1 System diagram

1. Piston 2. Connecting rod assembly 3. Upper connecting rod


bearing 4. Bottom connecting rod bearing 5. Piston pin 6. Snap ring
7. First valve ring 8. Second valve ring 9. Compound oil ring

8.2 Selection of connecting rod

Match the connecting rod according to the size of crank bore and
connecting rod’s shaft neck. Be sure to measure the accurate size when the size
groups cannot be identified or the abrasion is serious, and match the connecting
rod by referring to fitting clearance.

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size Upper Connecting Bottom


Crank bore connecting rod rod’s shaft connecting rod Fitting clearance
scheme bearing neck bearing

50 -0.006 ᧤1᧥ 1.5 -0.016 ᧤red᧥


0 -0.011
1 0.022ᨺ0.044

-0.006
1.5 -0.011
᧤1᧥ ᧤red᧥ ᧤2᧥
+0.006 -0.011 -0.006
2 53 0 1.5 -0.016 50 -0.011 0.023ᨺ0.044
᧤yellow᧥

50 -0.016 ᧤3᧥ 1.5 -0.006 ᧤blue᧥


-0.011 -0.001
3 0.023ᨺ0.044

50 -0.006 ᧤1᧥ 1.5 -0.016 ᧤red᧥


0 -0.011
4 0.023ᨺ0.045

-0.006 -0.006
1.5 -0.011 1.5 -0.011
᧤2᧥ ᧤2᧥
+0.012 -0.006
5 53 +0.006 50 -0.011 0.024ᨺ0.045
᧤yellow᧥ ᧤yellow᧥

50 -0.016 ᧤3᧥ 1.5 -0.006 ᧤blue᧥


-0.011 -0.001
6 0.024ᨺ0.045

50 -0.006 ᧤1᧥ 1.5 -0.016 ᧤red᧥


0 -0.011
7 0.024ᨺ0.046

-0.006
1.5 -0.011
᧤3᧥ 1.5 -0.006 ᧤blue᧥ ᧤2᧥
+0.018 -0.001 -0.006
8 53 +0.012 50 -0.011 0.025ᨺ0.046
᧤yellow᧥

50 -0.016 ᧤3᧥ 1.5 -0.006 ᧤blue᧥


-0.011 -0.001
9 0.025ᨺ0.046

Diagram of crank bore’s size group

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Diagram of shaft neck’s size mark

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View illustration of P side

8.3 Disassembly

1) use screw driver to pry the piston pin’s


retainer;

Note:

■ when using screw driver, user hand to pin down the piston pin’s retainer

2) Take out the retainer manually or by using


special tools;

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3) Take out the piston pin and connecting rod

8.4 Check and measurement

1) Measure the piston’s diameter:

Standard value: external diameter of piston’s skirt


part F83--00..0508 ;

The abrasion cannot exceed 0.05mm;

2) Check whether scratch, abrasion or other faults exists on piston, and


replace the defective piston if necessary. The piston ring must be replaced with
the piston. Also, check the piston pin’s assembly situation. The piston pin should
be moved smoothly in pin hole under indoor temperature.

3) Measure the piston ring

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཰ Measure the piston ring’s height:

■ first piston ring’s height: 1.770-0.02

■ second piston ring’s height: 1.5--00..0103

■ oil ring’s height: 3.00-0.02

ཱ Measure the piston ring’s backlash

Use thickness gauge to measure the end clearance between piston ring and
each groove. If the measured figure exceeds the limit, replace with new piston
ring and measure its backlash. If the figure still exceeds limit, then replace the
piston and piston ring simultaneously. If the backlash is below the limit, replace
the piston ring only.

Standard value of piston ring’s backlash:

■ end clearance of first piston ring: 0.08-0.12, abrasion limit:0.20mm

■ end clearance of second piston ring: 0.07-0.11, abrasion limit:0.20mm

■ end clearance of oil ring: 0.02-0.06, abrasion


limit:0.20mm

ི Piston ring’s gap clearance:

Put the piston ring into the engine’s bore holes,


and use piston to slightly push the ring down to the
appropriate position. Check the gap clearance by
using measure gauge, and if the gap clearance exceeds
the limit, replace the piston ring.

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Standard value of piston’s gap clearance:

■ gap clearance of first piston ring: 0.20-0.40, abrasion limit: 0.80mm

■ gap clearance of second piston ring:0.50-0.70, abrasion limit: 1.0mm

■ oil ring’s gap clearance: 0.25-0.50, abrasion limit 1.0mm

4) Check the connecting rod’s abrasion situation,


and replace the rod if the assembly surface is damaged

5) Measure the piston pin’s diameter:

■ piston pin’s external diameter: F 280-0.005

■ the abrasion cannot exceed 0.015mm

6) Measure the small end of connecting rod:

■ bushing bore of connecting rod’s small end: F 28++00..029


02

■ fitting clearance of piston pin’s external diameter and small end:


0.025-0.043mm, abrasion limit:0.08mm

7) Measure the bushing bore of connecting rod’s big end: F 50++00..030


024

■ bushing bore of connecting rod’s big end: F 50++00..030


024

Note:

■ when measuring the bushing bore of connecting rod’s big end, please
assemble the bearing bush and bearing cover on the corresponding rods, and
tighten the fixing bolts of bearing cover with standard torque. Use the internal
dial gauge to measure the internal diameter of connecting rod’s bearing bore

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8) Check the connecting rod’s bearing bush:

The anti-wear material on the bearing bush’s surface cannot be scratched or


embedded with foreign materials; pay attention to the lubrication, or the bearing
bush may be jammed or the anti-wear material may peel off; during re-assembly
process, please keep all spare parts clean.

8.5 Assembly

1) Use press-fitting tools to assemble the piston


pin’s retainer

Note:

■ the opening position of piston pin’s retainer should be assembled in


position, and please avoid the main thrust surface;

2) Put the rod assembly into piston, and pay


attention to the connecting rod’s position. When the
piston’s top surface is marked on the front, the slip
groove is on the air-inlet side. Press the piston pin into
pin bore and connecting rod’s small end bore;

3) Use press-fitting tools to assemble the second


piston pin’s retainer. If no special tools are available, it is acceptable to use
screw driver to assemble the retainer on the snap ring groove; be careful to avoid

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the retainer to hurt people;

4) Use piston ring caliper to assemble oil ring and


two valve rings in piston’s ring groove, and the valve
ring’s side with alphabets must be up;

5) Add appropriate machine oil on each fitting


surface, rotate the piston ring until the machine oil is
fully distributed in piston’s ring groove;

6) When checking piston ring’s assembly, please confirm the mark on ring
surface is up, and the openings are staggered by 120 degrees. The three piston
rings should not stagnate in the ring groove.

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7) Turn the engine body to the accumbent situation, and rotate the
crankshaft until the connecting rods of cylinder 1 and 4 are at bottom dead
center position; use piston slide to assemble the piston connecting rod assembly
in position;

Note:

■ the arrow on piston’s top side must direct to engine’s front side, and the
connecting rod assembly should rotate smoothly after being assembled into
engine body; the slip groove’s direction is on air-inlet side.

8) Dip the cleaning machine oil on connecting rod’s bolts, assemble


connecting rod’s cover and bolts while paying attention to their directions; the
connecting rod and its cover should match in number without replacement, and
the slip groove should be assembled on the same direction; rotate the connecting
bolts manually until the cylinder rod cover and rod are fully fitted; tighten the
connecting rod’s bolts with monitoring method of torque & angle control. The

tightening torque and turning angle’s range should be: ᧤25±2N·m᧥+᧤90°-94°᧥;

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after installing the piston connecting rod assembly for cylinder 1 and 4, rotate
the crankshaft until the shaft necks of cylinder 2 and 3 stop at bottom dead
center position, then install the piston connecting rod assembly of cylinder 2 and
3;

9) Check the connecting rod’s backlash.checking


method: use hand to rotate the shaft neck in axial
direction and check the clearance of connecting rod’s big
end (the connecting rod’s axial clearance should be
0.10-0.25mm). The crankshaft should be rotated smoothly without stagnation;

■ standard value: 0.10-0.25mm

■ limit: 0.4mm

If the connecting rod’s backlash exceeds the limit, the connecting rod must
be replaced. After replacing connecting rod, if the measured figure still exceeds
limit, replace the crankshaft immediately.

10) Check the crankshaft’s gyroscopic torque: rotate the crankshaft in at


least 360 degrees, and the gyroscopic torque should not exceed 20N.m;

11) Check the convexity quantity: while checking, please check the bulgy
height of 4 points, which are perpendicular to each other and scattered on the
piston’s upper circle whose diameter is 74mm. The average value of four
measured value (Hn) is the convexity of this piston (n=1, 2, 3, 4)

12) Choose the maximum value (Hmax) from Hn, and match the cylinder
gasket by referring Hmax.

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Group mark Thickness of gasket cylinder Piston’s convexity (Hmax)

(mm) (mm)

A 1.15s0.05 ᧸0.47

B 1.25s0.05 0.47-0.53

C 1.35s0.05 ᧺0.53

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IX Cooling system

9.1 System diagram

1. Water pump 2. Thermostat’s valve seat 3. Thermostat 4. Valve seat’s gaske 5. Water-inlet
pipe 6. Water-exhaust pipe 7. EGR cooling water-inlet pipe 8. EGR cooling water-return pipe 9.
Oil cooler’s water-inlet pipe 10. Oil cooler’s water-exhaust pipe

9.2 Disassembly and check

1) Disassembly

཰ Dismantle the front driving belt (please refer

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to “front drive system”);

ཱ Remove the EGR cooling water-return pipe, oil cooler’s water-inlet and

water-return pipe;

ི Remove the water-inlet pipe and take out the

thermostat;

ཱི Loosen the tightening bolt of thermostat’s

valve sear, and remove the valve seat and water pump assembly.

2) Check the thermostat:

཰ Hang the closed thermostat in the container

filled with water, and do not make the thermostat have


contact with the container’s bottom part. Heat the
container and observe the water temperature.

ཱ Check whether the valve operates normally according to the

temperature.

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Standard:

■ temperature when the valve is open: 80-84°C, and 93-97C when the
valve is fully open. (the valve’s stroke should exceed 8mm when fully open).
The temperature should exceed 77C when the thermostat is closed.

3) Check the water pump:

཰ check whether any crack, aging or broken parts exist on belt;

ཱ check whether the water pump’s impeller rotates normally without

stagnation or bearing’s peel-off

ི Check whether the pump’s bearing is broken, with abnormal sound or

rotates tardily, and replace the water pump if necessary;

ཱི Check whether any leakage exists on sealing elements, and replace the

water pump if necessary;

ུ Check whether the engine’s coolant leaks. If yes, replace the water

pump’s sealant immediately

4) Assembly

Assemble spare parts according to the disassembly order, and add coolant
according to the demand

Note:

■ after assembly, all fixing bolts should be tightened without looseness; the

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water pump should rotate smoothly without contact or stagnation; no leakage


should exist in the joint parts of cooling pipeline

List: tightening torque for the fixing bolts in cooling system

Cooling Remark
1041 Quantity Standard Tightening torque
system

Hexagon Tighten the


Q1840612F61 flange bolts 4 10±1 water pump’s
belt pulley

Hexagon Tighten the

Q1840820F61 flange bolts 2 18±2 water-inlet


pipe

Studs of Tighten the


1041124FD020 thermostat’s 1 M8×1.25 23±3 valve seat of
valve seat thermostat

Hexagon Tighten the


Q32008F61 flange nut 1 23±3 valve seat of
thermostat

Hexagon Tighten the

Q1840840F61 flange bolts 5 23±3 valve seat of


thermostat

Hexagon Tighten the


Q1840820F61 flange bolts 2 23±3 water-exhaust
pipe

Hexagon Tighten the


Q1840825F61 flange bolt 1 23±3 water-exhaust
pipe

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Diagnosis sheet of cooling system

Symptoms Possible reasons

1. Any DTC that indicates the thermometer is jammed?

2. Is the thermometer connected with the engine?

3. Does the thermometer work normally?


Low thermometer’s reading
4. The coolant’ liquid level is low under low temperature,
and the heater’s effect is poor

5. The heater’s inner wind door or controller works


abnormally

1. When pulling trailer or driving on steep slope / in heavy


traffic; engine is working idly under high environmental
temperature with air-conditioner on; high altitude will
deteriorate the situation.

2. Is the thermometer’s reading correct?

3. Does the water temperature’s warning light works


unnecessarily?

4. When the coolant is recycled in overflow tank or


radiator, is it in low liquid level?

5. The radiator’s pressure gap is not tightened. If the


pressure gap is loosen, the coolant’s boiling point will
Thermometer's reading is decrease. Please refer to the following procedure 6
high or the coolant warning
light is on. The coolant may 6. The radiator gap is not tightened.
leak in the cooling system
7. Radiator’s liquid level is low, but the overflow tank’s
liquid level is normal. This indicates that when the engine is
cooling, the radiator doesn’t pump coolant from overflow
tank.

8. Incorrect coolant concentration

9. The coolant doesn’t flow through cooling system

10. Radiator or the cooling fin of air-conditioner is dirty or


hjammed

11. Radiator core has been corroded or jammed

12. Brake stagnation

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13. Insect-proof board or paper board obstruct the air flow

14. The thermostat is partly or fully closed

15. The cooling fan is in malfunction

16. Leakage exists in cylinder gasket

17. Leakage exists in heater’s core

1. When working in cold weather, and the heater is in the


position with much hear, the reading may decline a little

2. The thermometer or the thermometer’s sensor on engine


loses efficiency or in short circuit, or the circuit’s wire is
corroded or loosen.

3. When the vehicle stops after driving in heavy capacity


while the engine is still working, the thermometer’s reading
will rise

4. When re-start the engine that had been heated before,


the reading will be high
Thermometer’s reading is
unstable (in fluctuation, 5. Radiator’s liquid level is low (air will accumulate in
circulation or random) cooling system, which causes the thermometer to work
slowly)

6. Cylinder gasket leaks and air will enter into cooling


system, which may cause the thermometer to work slowly

7. The joint part of water pump’s impeller and axle is


loosen

8. Accessory drive belt is loosen (the water-pump slips)

9. Leakage exists in the water pump’s suction part, which


will accumulate air in cooling system and cause the
thermometer to work slowly.

Steam spurts from radiator’s


pressure gap / coolant enters
into overflow tank

Thermometer’s reading may The pressure relief valve on radiator’s gap is ineffective
exceed the standard a little,
but the coolant’s liquid level
in overflow tank is high

Coolant drips to the 1. Coolant may leak in radiator, cooling system’s hose,
ground,with no steam water pump or engine.
spurting from radiator’s
pressure gap. The 2. Engine is overheating
thermometer’s reading is
HIGH or HOT 3. Radiator’s freezing point is incorrect. The mixture
liquid may be in too high or low concentration
Liquid explosion or
pre-ignition (not caused by

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ignition system); the


thermometer’s reading may
be high or not.

One or multiple hoses may When the engine is cooling, the vacuum produced by cooling
shrivel when engine is system hasn’t been compensated by coolant recycle / overflow
running system

1. Fan blades are loosen

2. Fan blades have contact with surrounding objects


Noise exists in cooling fan
3. The air inside the radiator or air-conditioner’s
condenser is jammed

1. Any diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is settled?

2. Coolant’s liquid level is low

3. Heater’s hose / joint is jammed


Heater’s effect is
insufficient, and the 4. Heater’s hose is twisted
thermometer loses effect
5. The water pump doesn’t pump water for heater’s core.
When the engine is fully warmed up, the heater’s two hoses
should be warm. If only one hose is hot, then the water pump
may be in malfunction or jammed. The accessory drive belt
may slip, which leads to the pump’s malfunction

When the thermostat is open in moist weather ( snow, ice or


The engine is fully warmed agglomerated in), the radiator’s surrounding moisture will be
up in moist weather. The evaporated. The hot water will enter into radiator when the
thermometer’s reading stays thermostat is on. When the moisture contacts with hot
in normal range radiator, it will be evaporated. This phenomenon may happen
in cold weather, with no fan or air flow blowing away steam.

Coolant’s color is not the inevitable indication of corrosion or


Coolant’s color anti-freezing. Do not judge the cooling system’s situation
through the coolant’s color

The coolant’s volume will change with the engine’s


The change of coolant’s
temperature, so the liquid level of overflow tank will change
liquid level in recycle /
too. If the liquid level is between FULL and ADD when
overflow tank. The water
working in normal temperature, it will go back to normal
temperature is normal
range after working in high-temperature situation

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