Binakol Clothing

I. Binakol

The “binakol” cloth has enjoyed tremendous popularity nationwide and has

also gained recognition even in other countries because of its unique style and

durability. Binakol is a textile pattern handwoven on a small scale in Ilocos. Also

known as binakel, binakael, or binakol, binakul (meaning “twill” in Ilocano) is a

variation of the abel. Binakul was popular by the end of the 19th century; today,

however, its weaving is considered a dwindling industry due to the nonavailability

of local cotton and its price disadvantage compared to factory-woven alternatives

(Yuchengco Museum, 2013). The binakol is specifically produced in Sarrat. It is

one of the hand-woven fabrics produced in the province, together with the

renowned abel Iloco produced in Paoay. Both fabrics have been used by Filipino

designers in making traditional clothing such as terno, maria clara, and filipiniana.

Binakol is also used in the production of fashionable bags, fans, tablecloths, and

other household items (See, 2018). The Binakol fabric is indigenous to the

communities of Ilokanos and Itneg in Ilocos and the Cordillera region. Binakol is

an Inabel weave known for its modern designs that are deeply rooted in ancient

culture and heritage, with weaving communities specializing in it in Sarrat, Ilocos

Norte (Ungson, n.d.). The term, binakol/binakel, translate as "to do a sphere.”

Imagine the mathematical challenge of achieving this with a technique that is

fundamentally linear -- vertical warp and horizontal weft. In some Southeast

Asian cultures, the warp and weft are representations of cosmic unity at the point

of convergence. They may also symbolize male and female (Gonzalez, 2018).
II. Designs used in Binakol and its meanings

The patterns of binakol cloths are ancient and are dizzying on purpose.

Traditionally, the Itneg tribe from Northern Luzon (Philippines) made blankets in

this design. They believed that evil spirits that hovered overhead and preyed on

sleeping souls. The blankets in the dizzying designs, they believed, would confuse

and distract the evil spirits. Binakol designs range from whirlwinds and stars to

fans, cat’s pawprints, and traditional Filipino capiz shell windows. The art of

weaving Binakol, and local textiles in the country, has been dwindling; recent

efforts by modern designers to use these textiles are aimed to bringing the art back

from the brink of extinction (White Champa, 2022). Whirlwinds or whirlpools

believed to drive evil spirits away (Owes/Uwes|Blanket|Ayala Museum, n.d.). It

is distinguished by its black and white color scheme and kinuskos (twister) design.

Women used to weave at home to meet the needs of their families for new

blankets and pillow cases (mediaincph, 2015). Binakol is a fabric woven from

Ilocos, Abra. Distinctive patterns like the kusikus (whirlwind), marurup (Milky

Way) and Sinan-paddak ti pusa (cat’s paw print) are prominent among Binakol

weaves (Binakol Fabric - Black Gray, Medium Circles, n.d.). Binakol weaves

from Ilocos Sur are intended to create optical illusions that induce a trance-like

state in the viewer, allowing them to communicate with the otherworld (Vergara,

2021). The performative nature of textile is established by a single deign, which is

shared by indigenous weavers in various interations — arabesques, spirals,

and whirlpools (kusikos). Binakol is said to serve as protective

clothing and a means of confusing evil spirits and their evil

intentions among weavers (Gonzalez, 2018).

III. Colors, Textures, Shapes and Lines used in Binakol

Binakol hand-woven fabric is distinguished by black and white color schemes

and a captivating 3-D "twister" pattern. The black and white fabric is indigenous

to the Philippines' northernmost island chain and is made on small width wood

looms (Binakol Fabric, SM Twister Pattern, n.d.). Negative and positive colored

threads are arranged in the form of graduated rectangles radiating from a central

rectangle (grey), creating the illusion of whirlwind movement (Binakol, 2015). It

is distinguished by its black and white color scheme and kinuskos (twister) design.

Women used to weave at home to meet the needs of their families for new

blankets and pillow cases (mediaincph, 2015).

Binakol is a Philippine textile pattern indigenous to the Ilokanos and Itnegs

tribes of Northern Luzon. Binakol weave patterns are intentionally disorienting.

They believed that these patterns, made entirely of straight lines woven in two

colors to form geometric patterns of squares and rectangles that give an optical

illusion of spiring circles resembling those of whirlwinds alipugpog (whirlwinds),

kurikos (whirlpools), and pinalpal-id (fans), would create the illusion of curves

and volume to distract and confuse evil spirits. The techniques were popular by

the late nineteenth century, when the United States colonized the Philippines, and

many traditional Philippine textiles were collected by American museums

(Studocu, n.d.). Binakol is typically woven in two colors to create geometric

patterns of squares, rectangles, or circles that represent whirlwinds or whirlpools

thought to drive away evil spirits (Owes/Uwes|Blanket|Ayala Museum, n.d.). Its

design, woven on pedal looms, is made up of interlocked geometric patterns,

creating an optical illusion despite its flat surface. The psychedelic pattern
 represents sea waves and deters malevolent spirits by confusing them (Celdran,

2018). It is woven in two colors to form geometric patterns of squares and

rectangles, creating an optical illusion that is said to create a dizzying effect to

ward off evil spirits. Without a manual or guide, the Binkaol is woven by counting

in the weavers' minds. Binakol is traditionally a ceremonial cloth used for

protection (Binakol 025, n.d.). The binakol is the weaver's solution to the problem

of creating a circle from a square. By subtly weaving graduated squares with

threads of different colors and thicknesses, a 3-D rendition of a basket is produced

(Gonzalez, 2018).

Art of the Loom: Weaving the Story That Is the Binakul – Yuchengco Museum.

(2013a, December 9). https://yuchengcomuseum.org/art-loom-weaving-story-binakul/

Binakol. (2015a, July 8). Mathematics in Indigenous Philippine Artwork.

https://mathinphilippineart.wordpress.com/patterns-by-region-2/patterns-by-region/

tingguians/binakol/

Binakol 025. (n.d.-a). ANTHILLfabrics.

https://anthillfabrics.com/products/binakol-025?variant=40465245438149

Binakol Fabric, SM Twister Pattern. (n.d.-a). Gold Leaf Design Group.

https://goldleafdesigngroup.com/products/binakol-fabric-small-black-white-twister-

pattern

Celdran, B. (2018a, May 30). So you think you know your local weaves? NOLISOLI.

https://nolisoli.ph/26741/philippine-weaves-habi/

Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions. (n.d.-a). Know your weaves:

A guide to identifying traditional local weaves.

https://sustainability.ph/solutions/intelligence/know-your-weaves-a-guide-to-

identifying-traditional-local-weaves

mediaincph. (2015a, August 20). Sarrat Binakol Craft. Kwentong Negosyo.

https://kwentongnegosyophil.wordpress.com/2015/08/20/sarrat-binakol-craft/

Owes/ Uwes | Blanket | Ayala Museum. (n.d.-a).

https://www.ayalamuseum.org/collection/9111855

Studocu. (n.d.-a). CPAR - BINAKOL, Pis Syabit, Arturo Luz, Andres Bonifacio

National Monument, Filipino - “Shapes 101”.

https://www.studocu.com/ph/document/sti-college/contemporary-philippine-arts-

from-the-regions/cpar-binakol-pis-syabit-arturo-luz-andres-bonifacio-national-

monument-filipino/31162444
Ungson, M. A. U. (n.d.-a). Binakol: Ugoy ng kamay at habihan: A photo essay on the

binakol weavers of Sarrat, Ilocos Norte. Animo Repository.

https://animorepository.dlsu.edu.ph/etd_bachelors/2999/

Binakol Fabric - Black Gray, Medium Circles. (n.d.). CUSTOMMADE CRAFTS

CENTER, INC. https://cmcrafts.linker.store/abra/binakol-fabric/v9567569

Vergara, B. P. (2021, May 17). Landscape of Dreams. Art Plus Magazine.

https://artplus.ph/landscape-of-dreams/

Gonzalez, M. (2018, October 24). Text to Textile. Positively Filipino | Online

Magazine for Filipinos in the Diaspora.

http://www.positivelyfilipino.com/magazine/text-to-textile

See, D. A. (2018, May 11). Imee bats for promotion of Binakol fabric in Ilocos.

HERALD EXPRESS | News in Cordillera and Northern Luzon.

https://baguioheraldexpressonline.com/imee-bats-for-promotion-of-binakol-fabric-in-

ilocos/