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Mack E6 4V Diesel Engine Service Manual PDF
Mack E6 4V Diesel Engine Service Manual PDF
E6/672 4VH
5-672 4VH
IMPORTANT
Mack Trucks, Inc., makes no warranty as to the property, express, implied, or implied by law, and Mack Trucks,
Inc., specifically disclaims any implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose and any
liability for consequential damages. This manual shall not become part of or modify any prior existing
agreement, commitment, or relationship.
This manual should be read carefully before attempting to overhaul or otherwise handle, use, or service the
product. Failure to follow the directions and instructions in this manual could result in severe personal injury or
death or destruction of the property.
The information in this manual is not all conclusive and cannot take into account all unique situations.
SAFETY INFORMATION
Advisory Labels
Cautionary signal words (Danger-Warning-Caution) may appear in various locations throughout this manual.
Information accented by one of these signal words must be observed to minimize the risk of personal injury to
service personnel, or the possibility of improper service methods which may damage the vehicle or cause it to
be unsafe. Additional Notes and Service Hints are used to emphasize areas of procedural importance and
provide suggestions for ease of repair. The following definitions indicate the use of these advisory labels as they
appear throughout the manual:
Activities associated with Danger indicate that death or serious personal injury may result from
failing to heed the advisory. Serious personal injury may be equated to career-ending injury.
Activities associated with Warning indicate that personal injury may result from failing to heed the
advisory. In this case, personal injury is not equated to career-ending injury, but results in possible
change in quality of life.
Activities associated with Caution indicate that product damage may result from failing to heed the advisory.
Caution is not used for personal injury.
A procedure, practice, or condition that is essential to emphasize.
A helpful suggestion that will make it quicker and/or easier to perform a procedure, while possibly reducing
service cost.
Also note that particular service procedures may require the use of a special tool(s) designed for a specific
purpose. These special tools must be used in the manner described, whenever specified in the instructions.
1. Before starting a vehicle, always be seated in the driver's seat, place the transmission in
neutral, apply the parking brakes and push in the clutch pedal.
2. Before working on a vehicle, place the transmission in neutral, set the parking brakes, and block
the wheels.
3. Before towing the vehicle, place the transmission in neutral and lift the rear wheels off the
ground, or disconnect the driveline to avoid damage to the transmission during towing.
Engine-driven components such as Power Take-Off (PTO) units, fans and fan belts, driveshafts and
other related rotating assemblies, can be very dangerous. Do not work on or service engine-driven
components unless the engine is shut down. Always keep body parts and loose clothing out of range
of these powerful components to prevent serious personal injury. Be aware of PTO engagement or
nonengagement status. Always disengage the PTO when not in use.
Do not work under a vehicle that is supported only by a hydraulic jack. The hydraulic jack could fail
suddenly and unexpectedly, resulting in severe personal injury or death. Always use jackstands of
adequate capacity to support the weight of the vehicle.
Mack Trucks, Inc. cannot anticipate every possible occurrence that may involve a potential hazard. Accidents
can be avoided by recognizing potentially hazardous situations and taking necessary precautions. Performing
service procedures correctly is critical to technician safety and safe, reliable vehicle operation.
The following list of general shop safety practices can help technicians avoid potentially hazardous situations and
reduce the risk of personal injury. DO NOT perform any services, maintenance procedures or lubrications until
this manual has been read and understood.
Perform all service work on a flat, level surface. Block wheels to prevent vehicle from rolling.
DO NOT wear loose-fitting or torn clothing. Remove any jewelry before servicing vehicle.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses and protective shoes. Avoid injury by being aware of sharp corners and
jagged edges.
NEVER run engine indoors unless exhaust fumes are adequately vented to the outside.
Be aware of hot surfaces. Allow engine to cool sufficiently before performing any service or tests in the
vicinity of the engine.
Keep work area clean and orderly. Clean up any spilled oil, grease, fuel, hydraulic fluid, etc.
Only use tools that are in good condition, and always use accurately calibrated torque wrenches to tighten
all fasteners to specified torques. In instances where procedures require the use of special tools which are
designed for a specific purpose, use only in the manner described in the instructions.
Do not store natural gas powered vehicles indoors for an extended period of time (overnight) without first
removing the fuel.
However, it must be noted depending upon application and date of manufacture, there may be numerous
internal as well as external design features incorporated in any one E6 672 4VH engine.
To readily identify these components, look for the following headings:
Stamped Steel Timing Cover
Die Cast Aluminum Timing Gear Cover
Thrust Button Arrangement
Captured Thrust Washer Arrangement
Closed Coupled Drive
Long Drive
Fixed Timing
Side Sectional Diagram
Front Sectional Diagram
E6 4VH ENGINE COMPONENT FEATURES
The following component features are described in this section:
Acceleration smoke controls
Cylinder liners
Piston cooling
Oil pressure piston cooling relief valve
Oil cooler
Cylinder head assembly
Maxidyne® fire ring type gasket
Dynatard engine brake
Water pump
Coolant conditioner
REVERSING RELAY
The reversing relay provides an output pressure signal to the air cylinder that decreases in direct proportion to
the increase in engine manifold pressure. Therefore, the maximum fuel which can be delivered to the engine is
controlled by the Puff Limiter air cylinder and not by the injection pump governor during low manifold pressure
conditions. Reversing relay is mounted directly to the engine inlet manifold. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
The LDA control needs no adjustment, and can only be repaired or replaced by an authorized injection pump
facility. See Figure 3.
Figure 3
Cylinder Liners
The function of the cylinder liner is to seal combustion pressure in conjunction with the piston rings and cylinder
head gasket, provide transfer of combustion heat to engine coolant, and to guide the piston travel during engine
operation. Correct extension of liner flange above top deck and uniform cylinder block counterbore are essential
to provide satisfactory liner life and head gasket seal. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
*Refer to Cylinder Block Inspection in this manual for additional information.
Retain liners with bolts and washers after cylinder head removal. Friction between the piston rings and liner
could lift the liner out of position if the crankshaft is rotated. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
Piston Cooling
The piston cooling system consists of a special design high rpm oil pump, oil passages drilled in the cylinder
block, and an oil spray nozzle assembly for each cylinder. The engine oil pressure relief valve control assembly
is externally mounted on the cylinder block. This valve controls the amount of oil going into the piston cooling oil
passage. Oil from the cooling passages is discharged through the nozzle and into the underside of each piston.
This spray provides additional piston cooling. The oil returns by gravity to the sump. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
1. Main Oil Gallery 5. Locating Tang
2. Oil to Oil Cooler and Oil Filter 6. Nozzle Retaining Screw
3. Oil to Piston Cooling Oil Gallery 7. Lock Tab
4. Piston Cooling Oil Gallery 8. Piston Cooling Nozzle
Oil Pressure Piston Cooling Relief Valve
The oil pressure piston cooling relief valve is spring loaded and oil pressure operated. It is housed in a machined
casting externally on the left hand side of the cylinder block. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
In the engine operating speed range the oil pump maintains pressure in the main oil gallery. As engine speed
increases the spring loaded oil pressure piston cooling relief valve diverts excess oil flow to the piston cooling
system gallery. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
Oil Cooler
The oil cooler assembly is located on the left side of the engine. The coolant flows from the radiator through the
lower radiator hose and up into the oil cooler.
At the same time but through a separate gallery, hot oil is pumped into the cooler. After being cooled, the oil
flows into the oil filter. The coolant flows to and through the water pump.
ESI engines feature a "removable bundle" type oil cooler. Periodic inspection of the oil cooler will indicate
whether the gasket, O-ring, and core are sound. If problems are encountered the oil cooler may be serviced by
replacing the damaged parts. Periodic reverse flow flushing of the cooling system will also clean the coolant
section of the oil cooler. See Figure 9 -- Oil Cooler Assembly—Exploded View.
Figure 9 -- Oil Cooler Assembly—Exploded View
Cylinder Head
Figure 10 -- Cylinder Head
The cylinder head is of a special alloy iron casting. The head contains cored inlet, exhaust, and coolant
passages, drilled oil passages, inlet and exhaust valve guides and seat locations, various drilled passages and
tapped holes. Each cylinder head covers three cylinders and has two (2) inlet and two (2) exhaust valves per
cylinder. Circular grooves correspond with the fire ring bead on the cylinder sleeves. This design coins the fire
ring over the liner lip and into the groove of the cylinder head and provides a positive combustion pressure seal.
A rotary brass wire brush is used to clean the circular groove.
Cylinder Head — Top View
Cylinder Head — Bottom View
Figure 11 -- Cylinder Head Gasket
1. Cylinder 4. Cylinder Block
2. Fire Ring 5. Maxidyne Cylinder Head Gasket
3. Cylinder Liner
Dynatard Engine Brake
The Mack Dynatard engine brake is a device which, when actuated, converts the engine into an air compressor.
This is accomplished by opening the exhaust valve near the completion of the compression stroke. Intake air is
compressed during this stroke and the modified valve action allows the compressed air to expand into the
exhaust manifold. Retarding work was performed during the compression stroke, but no return of this work by
expansion follows. This means that while negative or retarding work is done during the compression stroke, no
positive or power work is done on the following stroke Early opening of the exhaust valve during the
compression stroke when the Dynatard arrangement is operating will increase turbocharger speed thus
increasing charging pressure slightly above that obtained at the same engine speed during normal motoring and
thus enhances braking effort because of the increased airflow through the engine. The increased flow through
the engine then results in greater negative or retarding horsepower.
Water Pump
The water pump is a device that moves the coolant. It is driven by two belts that run off of the crankshaft drive
pulley. See Figure 12 -- Water Pump.
Figure 12 -- Water Pump
Figure 13 -- Water Pump — Exploded View
Lower rated speed Maxidyne engines are using water pumps with a reduced diameter pulley to maintain the
proper coolant flow. All water pumps, however, work on the same principle. The pulley shaft drives the pump
vanes which send the coolant on its way through the engine water jackets. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
Coolant Conditioner
The MACK coolant conditioner was designed to provide maximum engine protection with a minimum of
maintenance. It is compatible with both water and ethylene glycol. In addition to acting as a water softener,
corrosion inhibitor and a filter to remove solid contaminants, it also acts as a dye to intensify the color of the
coolant. See Figure 15 -- Coolant Conditioner Cutaway.
Figure 15 -- Coolant Conditioner Cutaway
The coolant conditioner and adapter are located near the top front of the engine and attaches to the thermostat
housing.
ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Troubleshooting is an organized study of the problem and a planned method of procedure for investigation and
correction.
To aid in establishing a systematic service check procedure for the MACK Diesel Engine, a basic troubleshooting
guide is included in this section. The guide lists the probable causes in the order they are most likely to happen.
Check the causes in the order they are given.
The guide does not list all symptoms or problems that may be encountered during the engine's service life nor
does it give all the answers for the symptoms listed. It is, however, meant to stimulate a train of thought and
indicate a work procedure directed toward the source of trouble.
Troubleshooting Chart Items (Alphabetical List)
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems A, B
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems B (continued), C
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems C, D
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems D (continued), E, F
Troubleshooting Chart — System F (continued)
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems F, G
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems G (continued), H, I
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems I (continued), J, K, L
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems L (continued), M, N
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems N (continued), O
Troubleshooting Chart — System O (continued)
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems O (continued), P
Troubleshooting Chart — Systems Q, R, S, T
CMCAC TESTS
Figure 1 -- Troubleshooting Chart
Figure 2 -- Plugging the Core Inlet
2. Insert a plug with an air line adapter in the core outlet. Connect a safety chain to the plug. Use charge air
cooler pressure fixture, J34911 on coolers with flange connections.
When system is pressurized, stand clear of plug area.
Figure 3 -- Inserting Plug with Air Line Adapter in Core Outlet
3. Clamp the plugs and attach an air line fitted to an air pressure regulator and gauge. Pressurize system to
30 psi (207 kPa) and shut off air source. Pressure should not drop more than 5 psi (35 kPa) within 15
seconds. If the pressure drop is more than specified, core leakage must be repaired, or replace core if not
repairable. See Figure 4 -- Pressure Testing the Core.
Figure 4 -- Pressure Testing the Core
After the testing procedure is completed, relieve the pressure in the system, to provide control venting of
pressure.
Reconnect the ducting and tighten the hose clamp nuts until spring is fully compressed.
The torque on the nut when the spring bottoms is generally between 40 and 55 lb. in. (4.52 and 6.22 N•m).
The restriction pressure tests must be performed at maximum, full load condition.
A restriction in the internal portion of the cooler may interfere with proper airflow and could result in excessively
high pyrometer readings. To perform a restriction pressure test, the following procedure must be followed.
Current units are equipped with connections on the inward sides of the inlet and outlet charge air cooler tubes;
remove the plugs and install pressure gauge lines to test.
Early production units are not equipped with spud connections in the inlet or outlet charge air cooler tubes. If
the unit is not so equipped, current production charge air cooler tubes with the spud connections installed are
available.
Figure 5 -- Position of Connections and Spuds
Install an appropriate pressure gauge to the inlet and one to the outlet charge air cooler tubes; maximum
allowable pressure drop across cooler is 4 in. hg. at full load condition.
If the pressure drop is more than specified, remove the chassis mounted cooler and flush the inside to remove
any deposits that may prevent the CMCAC system from functioning properly. Do not use caustic cleaners. When
handling the cooler, extreme care must be taken, as not to damage the core.
The clamp springs must always be located under the tube to avoid damaging the hood when closed. See Figure
6 -- Clamp Spring Facing Downward.
Figure 6 -- Clamp Spring Facing Downward
FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT
Figure 1
When assembling adapter to thermostat housing, always use a new O-ring in check valve counterbore.
Engines built prior to October 1985 may have a feed line check valve (63AX3683). If so, replace it with a
straight fitting (63AX3695).
Shut engine off. Keep engine stop in OFF position. To avoid injury when removing radiator cap, turn
radiator cap counterclockwise to the first stop, but do not depress. After the pressure has
completely dissipated, press the cap downward and continue turning to remove.
To install the new coolant conditioner.
1. Relieve coolant system pressure by removing radiator cap and remove old conditioner using tool J24783.
2. Clean the mounting surface on the bracket.
3. Apply a light film of oil on the face of the gasket.
4. Install the new coolant conditioner.
5. Turn the coolant conditioner one full turn after gasket contacts base using tool J24783.
6. Reinstall radiator cap, start engine and check for leaks.
7. Shut engine off and tighten conditioner 1/4 turn.
8. Add coolant to specified level.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Oil Capacities
"CENTRI-MAX"
"ESI"
Figure 2 -- "ESI PLUS"
Before starting engine assemble oil filters according to instructions shown on filter.
CENTRIFUGAL OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
At the specified oil change interval:
1. Clean area around centrifugal filter before removing drain hose (1) to prevent contamination entering oil
pan.
2. Loosen hose clamp at the bottom of the centrifugal filter housing and disconnect drain hose.
3. Loosen hose clamp at cylinder block drain and rotate hose out of the way.
4. Use tool J24783 to remove centrifugal oil filter housing (2).
Be sure to apply filter removal tool on filter housing at point marked "WRENCH HERE."
5. Remove and discard filter seal (3) and centrifugal cartridge (4).
6. Clean filter housing if necessary.
7. Install new filter seal and new centrifugal cartridge in filter housing.
8. Apply film of MG-C grease to sealing gasket. Install centrifugal oil filter housing and turn 3/4 of one full
turn BY HAND after gasket contacts base.
9. Install drain hose at base of centrifugal filter housing and tighten hose clamp. Tighten hose clamp at
cylinder block connection.
10. Start engine and check for leaks.
Figure 3
1. Secondary Fuel Filter 2. Primary Fuel Filter
It may be necessary to lower the mileage between service intervals during extreme cold weather due to ice
build-up in the fuel system or fuel waxing which can clog the fuel filters.
To install new fuel filter:
1. Thoroughly wash around the fuel filter and adapter mating area with a solvent and blow dry with
compressed air before removing the fuel filter.
2. Remove old filters using tool J 24783.
3. Install new fuel filters per instructions on filter body.
General field practice has been and is to install new fuel filters wet or preprimed. However, this practice can, if
caution is not used, permit dirt to enter the outlet port of the filter. Filtered fuel only must be used when
priming filter. Prime filter through series of small holes on top of filter. DO NOT prime filter through the center
core.
CMCAC PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR
General Information
The function of the Chassis Mounted Charge Air Cooling (CMCAC) system, is to cool the hot turbocharged air
before it enters the engine inlet manifold. The CMCAC system uses ambient air as the cooling medium by
allowing the air to pass through a network of heat exchanging fins. See Figure 2 -- Front Section Core
Construction consisting of a series of Cold Bars, Cold Fins, and Tube Plates..
The hot side fluid is turbocharged air, varying in pressure from 0 to 25 psig. The hot air passes through tubes
which also contain a network of heat exchanging fins. See Figure 3 -- Side Section Core Construction, consisting
of a series of Hot Bars and Hot Fins..
Figure 1 -- Typical CMCAC Cooler
Figure 2 -- Front Section Core Construction consisting of a series of Cold Bars, Cold Fins, and Tube Plates.
Figure 3 -- Side Section Core Construction, consisting of a series of Hot Bars and Hot Fins.
DAILY MAINTENANCE
Remove all bugs, leaves and other foreign debris from the frontal area by using a firm bristle brush and soapy
water.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Every A, B, C and D Inspection
Check all air ducting and gasket connections. Proper hose clamp torquing procedure is to tighten hose clamp
nuts until spring is fully compressed, as shown in Figure 5 -- Torquing Hose Clamps.
Figure 5 -- Torquing Hose Clamps
Open the aftercooler petcock, if so equipped, to check for condensation. Be sure to close the petcock after
condensation has drained out. See Figure 6 -- Checking for Condensation.
Figure 6 -- Checking for Condensation
Check welds joining side tanks to core for cracks and mounting brackets for security and condition. Torque the
mounts to 30 lb. ft. (40.68 N•m). See Figure 7 -- Torquing Change Air Cooler Mounts.
Figure 7 -- Torquing Change Air Cooler Mounts
Check core fins for external damage, debris or salt corrosion. Use firm bristle brush to remove salt corrosion and
air pressure to clean core blockage due to debris. See Figure 8 -- Checking Core Fins.
Figure 8 -- Checking Core Fins
CMCAC Core Repair
GENERAL INFORMATION
The function of the Chassis Mounted Charge Air Cooling (CMCAC) system is to cool the hot turbocharged air
before it enters the engine inlet manifold. The CMCAC system uses ambient air as the cooling medium by
allowing the air to pass through a network of heat exchanging fins. See Figure 2 -- Front Section Core
Construction consisting of a series of Cold Bars, Cold Fins, and Tube Plates..
Determining if the core damage is repairable is critical. Proper diagnosis is essential to eliminate costly man-
hours, and to keep vehicle down-time to a minimum.
Figure 9 -- CMCAC Core
REPAIR PROCEDURES
The following guide will aid in establishing what areas are repairable and/or non-repairable, and recommended
repair procedures are listed.
To ensure the system will function properly after repair or replacement a pressure/leak testing procedure is
recommended.
Figure 10 -- Core Failures
INSPECTION
1. Carefully inspect the entire system to determine the exact location and extent of the damaged area. Refer
to Figure 11 -- Inspecting Cold Fins and Cold Bars that Run Horizontal in the Cooler. and Figure 12 --
Inspecting all Brazed or Welded Joints in the Header Tank..
Figure 11 -- Inspecting Cold Fins and Cold Bars that Run Horizontal in the Cooler.
Figure 12 -- Inspecting all Brazed or Welded Joints in the Header Tank.
2. The area to be repaired should be free of surface oxide and foreign materials such as oil, grease, dirt, etc.
Prior to repair, prepare the surface with a clean stainless steel brush. See Figure 13 -- Preparing surface
with a clean stainless steel brush..
Figure 13 -- Preparing surface with a clean stainless steel brush.
DOW CORNING #1200
PRIMER DOW CORNING #RTV 734 ADHESIVE (clear)
NAPHTHA SOLVENT OR EQUIVALENT
Allow primer to flow into opening by gravity and/or capillary action; then cure at room temperature for two
hours.
Primed surfaces must be kept clean until the sealant is applied.
Prepare a 1:1 mixture of adhesive and solvent, then apply the sealant mixture directly to the primed surface. Do
not move the CMCAC for fifteen minutes after the sealant application.
Sealant mixture is extremely flammable and should be used only with adequate ventilation and at
least thirty feet away from open fire, sparks, heat source and people smoking.
The sealant should be cured for twenty-four hours before pressure testing system.
Welds should exhibit complete fusion without excessive overlap or undercut.
After repair of the CMCAC system is completed, the pressure/leak test procedure is recommended.
ENGINE AND/OR TURBOCHARGER FAILURE
1. Remove the chassis mounted cooler and flush the inside with a safety solvent to remove oil and other
foreign debris.
2. Shake cooler to remove larger pieces.
3. Wash with hot soapy water, rinse with clean water and blow dry with compressed air in reverse direction of
normal flow.
4. Carefully inspect the cooler to insure cleanliness. Do not use caustic cleaners
REMOVAL FROM VEHICLE
Details of this procedure will vary from one vehicle to another. However, the following steps will be necessary:
It is good maintenance practice before disassembly, and periodically, to steam clean the engine to remove road
grime, grease and oil. This will provide a clean work area, which will permit more detailed inspection and better
workmanship.
Set vehicle hand brake, block wheels, and observe all safety precautions.
Disconnect battery leads at battery.
Remove the radiator cap.
To avoid injury when removing radiator cap, turn radiator cap counterclockwise to the first stop, but
do not depress. Allow the pressure to dissipate completely. After the pressure has completely
dissipated, press the cap downward and continue turning to remove.
Open draincocks and drain coolant from the radiator and engine.
Shut off air supply to shutterstat (if equipped) before removing shutter air line.
Disconnect the air lines related piping around the radiator as well as shutter cylinder and clamps at the side of
the radiator. Disconnect the chassis mount change air cooling (CMCAC) piping at the inlet and outlet fittings.
AIR CONDITIONING
On a vehicle with air conditioning, the following procedure should be followed:
Remove the bumper.
Loosen the four bolts which hold the condenser in place.
Support the condenser so it is not hanging by its hoses.
With this done, the radiator removal can be done without disconnecting the air conditioner condenser and losing
its charge of freon.
Remove front air inlet duct.
Remove left and right side radiator tie rod supports at the radiator. (Do not remove brackets since these may be
used later to remove the radiator assembly.) Position the radiator tie rods out of the way.
Attach chains to radiator tie rod upper brackets and support with a hydraulic shop crane of sufficient capacity to
hoist the radiator/CMCAC assembly.
Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses. Inspect hoses for cracks and general overall condition. Replace
hoses if necessary.
Remove lower mounting support bolts and insulators.
Lift radiator/CMCAC assembly out of chassis using the hydraulic shop crane. Move slowly and carefully so as not
to damage any components.
Once the assembly is out of the chassis, remove the CMCAC core. Lay the radiator on its front on a flat surface.
Use extreme care when handling the CMCAC and radiator cores.
Remove fan shroud, brackets and other hardware. Remove fan.
Drain engine lubricating oil.
Mark and disconnect electrical leads, fuel lines, all linkages, oil lines and water hose from engine, also cap fuel
lines to keep out dust.
Remove air cleaner to engine hose. Disconnect air control linkage on vehicles so equipped. On some vehicle
models it may be necessary to remove the air cleaner as an assembly. Install protective caps to keep out
foreign objects from induction system.
Position jacks or blocks under the transmission. In some vehicles it may be necessary to remove or back away
the transmission before removing the engine.
Loosen and remove the capscrews that hold the transmission bell housing to the engine flywheel housing. See
Figure 1 -- Remove Transmission Mounting Screws.
Figure 1 -- Remove Transmission Mounting Screws
Obtain or fabricate a suitable spreader bar and lifting chain. Attach lifting chain hooks to engine lifting eyes, or
equivalent. See Figure 2 -- Attach Lifting Device to Engine.
Figure 2 -- Attach Lifting Device to Engine
The 4VH 6-cylinder engine must not be lifted using the common sling-type lifting chain. This type of chain
arrangement places an unusual high stress on the cylinder head, which can cause the lifting eye or equivalent to
break out of the head.
Always use the type of lifting hoist arrangement shown in Figure 2 -- Attach Lifting Device to Engine.
When lifting this engine, serious personal injury can occur if an improper method is used. Do not lift
engine by the rocker arm shafts. Do not lift engine by using a strap under oil pan.
Using a suitable hoist, apply a slight load to the lifting chain.
Remove engine mounting bolts.
Separate engine from transmission and use hoist to remove engine from vehicle.
Make sure clutch release bearing lube line is disconnected from transmission.
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Typical stand available from:
Kent-Moore
Model J29109 used with adapter plate J7449-A.
Remove hoist and lifting eyes from engine.
Disassembly Procedure
Remove turbocharger oil feed and return lines. See Figure 1 -- Remove Turbocharger Oil Lines.
Figure 1 -- Remove Turbocharger Oil Lines
Remove turbocharger.
Remove crankcase breather assembly.
Remove nozzle fuel tubes at injection pump (cap outlet at pump). See Figure 2 -- Remove Nozzle Fuel Tubes.
Figure 2 -- Remove Nozzle Fuel Tubes
The nozzle fuel inlet tube must be removed before removing nozzle holder. Failure to remove the tube first will
result in damage to holder, tube and possibly cylinder head.
Remove injection lines unit assembly.
A. Loosen nozzle fuel inlet tube sleeve nut. See Figure 3 -- Loosen Sleeve Nut.
Figure 3 -- Loosen Sleeve Nut
B. Loosen nozzle fuel inlet tube clamping screw. See Figure 4 -- Loosen Clamping Screw.
Figure 4 -- Loosen Clamping Screw
C. Remove nozzle fuel inlet tube. See Figure 5 -- Remove Fuel Inlet Tube.
Figure 5 -- Remove Fuel Inlet Tube
D. Cap all lines.
Remove exhaust manifold assembly.
Disconnect line to puff limiter and remove the inlet manifold assembly.
Remove coolant conditioner filter.
Remove water manifold assembly, complete with thermostat housing.
Remove engine turn-over bracket, mounted on vibration damper, on engines so equipped. See Figure 6 --
Remove Turn-Over Bracket.
Figure 6 -- Remove Turn-Over Bracket
There are two vibration damper capscrew dimensions, if engine turn-over bracket is used. The capscrews used
for engine turn-over bracket to vibration damper are more than one-half inch in length. The variation in length
should eliminate any confusion of proper capscrew location. See Figure 7 -- Capscrew Location.
Figure 7 -- Capscrew Location
Remove vibration damper. See Figure 8 -- Remove Vibration Damper
Figure 8 -- Remove Vibration Damper
Remove the crank pulley. See Figure 9 -- Remove Crank Pulley.
Figure 9 -- Remove Crank Pulley
Remove hub retaining capscrew. See Figure 10 -- Removing Hub Retaining Capscrew and Figure 11 -- Capscrew
Removed.
Figure 10 -- Removing Hub Retaining Capscrew
Figure 11 -- Capscrew Removed
Using a universal puller for the hub washer. See Figure 12 -- Pulling Hub Washer and Figure 13 -- Washer
Removed.
Figure 12 -- Pulling Hub Washer
Figure 13 -- Washer Removed
Attach a standard "T" bar type puller to remove the vibration damper hub. See Figure 14 -- Attach Bar Type
Puller.
Figure 14 -- Attach Bar Type Puller
Plug the crankshaft capscrew hole or puller could damage threads.
Using the standard "T" bar type puller remove the vibration damper hub. See Figure 15 -- Removing Hub and
Figure 16 -- Hub Removed.
Figure 15 -- Removing Hub
Figure 16 -- Hub Removed
Back-off thrust button adjustment screws (camshaft and auxiliary shaft) before removal of timing gear cover.
Remove timing gear cover capscrews. See Figure 17 -- Removing Cover Capscrews.
Figure 17 -- Removing Cover Capscrews
Remove timing gear cover. See Figure 18 -- Removing Cover.
Figure 18 -- Removing Cover
There are two timing gear covers used in the E6 4VH six cylinder engine. See Figure 19 -- Stamped Steel Timing
Gear Cover and Figure 20 -- Die Cast Aluminum Timing Gear Cover for application.
Figure 19 -- Stamped Steel Timing Gear Cover
Figure 20 -- Die Cast Aluminum Timing Gear Cover
Remove oil cooler and attaching parts. See Figure 21 -- Removing Oil Cooler Attaching Parts and Figure 22 --
Removing Oil Cooler Attaching Parts.
Figure 21 -- Removing Oil Cooler Attaching Parts
Figure 22 -- Removing Oil Cooler Attaching Parts
Remove oil filter mounting adaptor.
Remove oil pressure relief valve housing.
Disconnect line to water pump, remove water pump. See Figure 23 -- Disconnect Line at Water Pump.
Figure 23 -- Disconnect Line at Water Pump
Remove clutch assembly if applicable.
Refer to 9-CL86 manual for clutch removal and installation procedures.
Remove the six capscrews and washers, and carefully remove the flywheel from its position. Inspect the
mounting surface and check condition of alignment dowel pin and locating hole. See Figure 24 -- Flywheel
Mounting Surface.
Figure 24 -- Flywheel Mounting Surface
Remove bracketed flywheel housing and attaching parts.
Remove power steering pump from air compressor (if equipped).
Disconnect air compressor lines. See Figure 25 -- Disconnect Air Compressor Lines and Figure 26 -- Disconnect
Air Compressor Lines.
Figure 25 -- Disconnect Air Compressor Lines
Figure 26 -- Disconnect Air Compressor Lines
Remove air compressor to auxiliary housing capscrews. See Figure 27 -- Remove Air Compressor Capscrews.
Figure 27 -- Remove Air Compressor Capscrews
Remove air compressor. See Figure 28 -- Remove Air Compressor.
Figure 28 -- Remove Air Compressor
Remove oil filter tube.
Remove tachometer drive assembly
Disconnect throttle linkage from injection pump.
Disconnect fuel return line from injection pump. See Figure 29 -- Disconnect Fuel Return Line.
Figure 29 -- Disconnect Fuel Return Line
Remove support bracket from injection pump. See Figure 30 -- Remove Support Bracket.
Figure 30 -- Remove Support Bracket
Remove injection pump adaptor capscrews. See Figure 31 -- Remove Adapter Capscrews.
Figure 31 -- Remove Adapter Capscrews
If equipped with close coupled drive, refer to the fixed timing section.
To remove injection pump, grasp firmly, lifting the back of the pump slightly, and using a smooth motion
disengage the pump from the injection pump drive shaft. See Figure 32 -- Remove the Pump.
Figure 32 -- Remove the Pump
Remove cylinder head covers.
Remove cylinder head cover seal assembly.
Do not remove cylinder heads until nozzle fuel inlet tubes and nozzle holders have been removed.
Remove the nozzle holder clamping screw. See Figure 33 -- Remove Clamping Screw.
Figure 33 -- Remove Clamping Screw
Remove nozzle holder with nozzle holder removal tool, J37093. Screw handle of tool in nozzle holder until
rubber gasket is slightly compressed. See Figure 34 -- Remove Nozzle Holder with Tool.
Figure 34 -- Remove Nozzle Holder with Tool
With tool in position, turn nut (under handle) clockwise, see Figure 35 -- Turn Nut Clockwise. Continue turning
nut out until nozzle holder is free of insert. See Figure 36 -- Turn Nut Until Holder is Free from Insert.
Figure 35 -- Turn Nut Clockwise
Figure 36 -- Turn Nut Until Holder is Free from Insert
Check injection nozzle for nozzle holder gasket; if not missing, remove from cylinder head with magnet. See
Figure 37 -- Removing Nozzle Holder Gasket.
Figure 37 -- Removing Nozzle Holder Gasket
It is recommended rocker arm shaft assemblies, push rods and valve yokes be tagged for position, to maintain
wear surface if they are reused.
Remove rocker arm shaft assembly.
Remove valve yokes.
Remove push rods. See Figure 38 -- Remove Push Rods.
Figure 38 -- Remove Push Rods
Remove fuel return lines.
Remove all cylinder head capscrews and washers. There are two cylinder head capscrew lengths. See Figure 39
-- Two Capscrew Lengths.
Figure 39 -- Two Capscrew Lengths
Remove cylinder head assembly.
Remove cylinder head gasket and fire rings. See Figure 40 -- Remove Gasket and Fire Rings.
Figure 40 -- Remove Gasket and Fire Rings
Remove oil pan capscrews. See Figure 41 -- Remove Oil Pan Capscrews.
Figure 41 -- Remove Oil Pan Capscrews
Remove oil pan. See Figure 42 -- Remove Oil Pan.
Figure 42 -- Remove Oil Pan
Remove oil pump assembly capscrews. See Figure 43 -- Remove Oil Pump Capscrews.
Figure 43 -- Remove Oil Pump Capscrews
Remove oil pump and oil pump inlet tube as an assembly. See Figure 44 -- Remove Oil Pump.
Figure 44 -- Remove Oil Pump
Before removing piston and connecting rod assemblies, clean carbon from upper inside wall of each cylinder.
See Figure 45 -- Cleaning Carbon and Figure 46 -- Cleaning Carbon.
Figure 45 -- Cleaning Carbon
Figure 46 -- Cleaning Carbon
Stamp or label each piston before removal. Remove pistons by companion cylinder, 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4.
Remove connecting rod bearing capscrews and remove cap.
Remove connecting rod and piston assembly carefully, guide to clear the piston cooling oil nozzle. See Figure 47
-- Remove Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly.
Figure 47 -- Remove Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Remove number six (6) oil piston cooling nozzle (squirt) first to allow oil gallery to drain.
Remove the remaining piston cooling nozzles.
Removal of injection pump driven gear. See Figure 48 -- Long Drive Arrangement and Figure 49 -- Close
Coupled Drive Arrangement.
Figure 48 -- Long Drive Arrangement
1. Remove injection pump drive shaft Nut and Hub. 4. Remove injection pump drive Shaft from rear of
injection pump drive housing.
2. Remove injection pump driven gear.
5. Remove injection pump drive Housing capscrews.
3. Remove Key from injection pump drive shaft.
6. Remove injection pump drive housing.
Figure 49 -- Close Coupled Drive Arrangement
1. Remove injection pump driven gear to hub 2. Remove injection pump driven gear.
capscrews and washers.
Remove injection pump driving gear, camshaft gear and camshaft as an assembly. See Figure Figure 50 --
Gears
Figure 50 -- Gears
Engine upside down will facilitate camshaft assembly removal. Ensure that lifters do not interfere with cam
journals.
Inspect camshaft and injection pump driving gear for unusual wear or broken teeth. Replace if necessary. See
Figure 51 -- Camshaft and Injection Pump Driving Gear.
Figure 51 -- Camshaft and Injection Pump Driving Gear
To remove the injection pump driving gear, loosen and remove the four capscrews and washers. See Figure 52 -
- Driving Gear Capscrews.
Figure 52 -- Driving Gear Capscrews
Remove valve lifter covers. See Figure 53 -- Removing Lifter Cover Capscrews and Figure 54 -- Removing Lifter
Cover.
Figure 53 -- Removing Lifter Cover Capscrews
Figure 54 -- Removing Lifter Cover
Remove valve lifters, if cam and lifters are serviceable tag as for locations. See Figure 55 -- Remove Valve
Lifters.
Figure 55 -- Remove Valve Lifters
Removal of Auxiliary shaft. See Figure 56 -- Thrust Button Auxiliary Shaft Arrangement and Figure
57 -- Captured Thrust Washer Auxiliary Shaft Arrangement.
Figure 56 -- Thrust Button Auxiliary Shaft Arrangement
1. Oil feed tube 4. Air compressor drive coupling
2. Lock washer 5. Auxiliary shaft
3. Drive coupling nut
Figure 57 -- Captured Thrust Washer Auxiliary Shaft Arrangement
1. Nut 6. Auxiliary shaft
2. Lock washer (Tabbed) 7. Auxiliary drive shaft gear
3. Air compressor drive coupling 8. Auxiliary drive shaft nut
4. Oil pump drive gear 9. Oil feed tube
5. Air compressor drive coupling key
Remove Air Compressor Oil Feed Tube. See Figure 58 -- Remove Oil Feed Tube.
Figure 58 -- Remove Oil Feed Tube
Straighten lock tabs on air compressor drive coupling lockwasher. See Figure 59 -- Straighten Lockwasher Tabs.
Figure 59 -- Straighten Lockwasher Tabs
Remove air compressor drive coupling nut. See Figure 60 -- Remove Drive Coupling Nut.
Figure 60 -- Remove Drive Coupling Nut
Using a universal puller, remove air compressor drive coupling. See Figure 61 -- Remove Coupling.
Figure 61 -- Remove Coupling
Remove auxiliary shaft and camshaft thrust washer. See Figure 62 -- Remove Thrust Washers.
Figure 62 -- Remove Thrust Washers
1. Camshaft Thrust Washer 4. Auxiliary Shaft Bushing (Front)
2. Auxiliary Shaft Thrust Washer (pinned to block 5. Auxiliary Shaft Bushing (Rear)
style)
3. Camshaft (7) Bushings
Remove auxiliary shaft front and rear bushings. Refer to Figure 62 -- Remove Thrust Washers.
Remove crankshaft rear seal housing assembly.
Remove all camshaft (7) bushings. Refer to Figure 62 -- Remove Thrust Washers.
Remove main bearing cap capscrews, the cap brackets, and the main bearing caps. See Figure 63 -- Remove
Main Bearing Capscrews.
Figure 63 -- Remove Main Bearing Capscrews
Due to the considerable weight of the crankshaft, extreme care must be observed during removal.
Lift the crankshaft straight up to avoid damage. No scratches, nicks, burrs or any other kinds of
distress are allowed on the main bearing and/or crankpin journals and fillets.
Remove crankshaft assembly.
Remove cylinder liners using Tool J25065C.
All core hole press plugs and threaded oil passage plugs must be removed for proper block (INTERNAL)
CLEANING.
All components are to be completely cleaned and free from foreign material or corrosion. All running and mating
parts should be suitably lubricated (unless otherwise specified) with accepted lubricants to prevent surface
distress during the initial operation of the engine.
CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING
2. Use a gasket scraper to remove all gasket material and heavy dirt. See Figure 1 -- Removing Gasket
Material.
Figure 1 -- Removing Gasket Material
3. Install the cylinder block into a cleaning or soak tank using a heavy duty alkaline soak cleaner for a period
of one to two hours.
Use extreme care and wear protective clothing when working with alkaline solutions.
4. Remove the cylinder block from the cleaning or soak tank.
5. Thorough flushing with air and suitable solvent is necessary to prevent clogging of water and oil passages
by the loosened particles after the engine is reassembled.
6. Look into water passages of cylinder block to be sure they are clean and unobstructed. Ream or drill out if
necessary to dislodge any deposits.
7. Check to see that there are no casting fins obstructing water flow.
8. Remove any such fins with a pry bar.
9. Run a wire brush in oil passages to determine they are all open.
10. Flush oil passages with air and solvent to complete cleaning to ensure free flow.
Inspection
When checking or assembling engine components, the dimensions and torque settings are found in the "Fits and
Limits Chart" and "Torque Limit Chart" at the end of this booklet.
1. Check cylinder block for any indications of external cracking or water leakage. If any defects are suspect,
use dye penetrant procedure to locate affected areas.
2. Check condition of threaded holes and mounting flanges.
3. Apply Loctite 277, or equivalent, to cup plugs and assemble to engine.
4. For camshaft hole cup plug, use installation tool, J25064, seal with Loctite 277 or equivalent.
5. Pressure check block to ensure that no leakage appears. See Figure 2 -- Pressure Checking Block.
Figure 2 -- Pressure Checking Block
6. Using a straight edge and thickness gauge, check the cylinder block deck surface for warpage, or fretting
wear. See Figure 3 -- Checking Block Deck Surface.
Figure 3 -- Checking Block Deck Surface
7. Another method for checking cylinder block deck imperfections is by using tool, J26948. See Figure 4 --
Using Tool J26948.
Figure 4 -- Using Tool J26948
8. If warpage or fretting is above limits, be sure that the maximum amount of material removed does not go
below the minimum dimensions shown in Figure 5 -- Block Deck Height.
Figure 5 -- Block Deck Height
1. Minimum Dim. 17.363 (Standard Dim. 17.377 to 2. Counterbore Dim. 0.188 to 0.184. This dim. must
17.373) be maintained to provide proper liner to deck
extension.
9. Check counterbore uptilt. See Figure 6 -- Check Counterbore Uptilt.
Figure 6 -- Check Counterbore Uptilt
A. If the cylinder block deck is resurfaced, the cylinder liner counterbore depth must be recut to specifications.
B. If the cylinder block deck is not resurfaced, but there is excessive pitting or erosion of cylinder liner
counterbore flange mounting surface, recut the counterbore as required. Shims are available to re-establish
the correct liner flange height.
Special Equipment Required:
Use tool PT-2250B basic kit and PT-2200-40 cutter plate.
CLEANING
1. Make sure the top deck of the block is clean and free of burrs. Use a finish millfile and crocus cloth, if
necessary, to create a smooth flat surface for locating the tool. See Figure 7 -- Cleaning Block Deck.
Figure 7 -- Cleaning Block Deck
2. Using cutter plate PT2200-40 preset the cutter by using the cutter set strap wrapped around the area of
the cutter slot. Push the cutter out to touch the set strap and tighten the button head socket set screws.
See Figure 8 -- Tightening Setscrews.
Figure 8 -- Tightening Setscrews
Recheck the cutter, making sure it contacts the cutter set strap but does not protrude beyond the edge of
the plate.
3. Properly installed, the cutter carbide faces the open space in the cutter plate. See Figure 9 -- Open Space
in Cutter Plate.
Figure 9 -- Open Space in Cutter Plate
4. Install the cutter plate on the main shaft. Use the cutter plate removing pin to tighten securely. See Figure
10 -- Installing Cutter Plate.
Figure 10 -- Installing Cutter Plate
5. Position the tool in the cylinder bore by backing off the depth set collars and lowering the cutter plate into
the counterbore to center the tool. See Figure 11 -- Positioning Tool.
Figure 11 -- Positioning Tool
It is recommended that when the entire block is to be counterbored, the center cylinder bores be done
first. This facilitates final depth measurements and allows the top depth set collar to be preset once for all
other cylinders.
6. Secure the base plate to block with four cylinder head capscrews using stud adapters and offset washers.
See Figure 12 -- Securing Baseplate.
Figure 12 -- Securing Baseplate
1. Cylinder head capscrew 3. Offset washer
2. Stud adapter
7. Cross tighten bolts (diagonally) to 30 lbs. ft. (41 N•m) torque. See Figure 13 -- Cross Tighten Bolts.
Figure 13 -- Cross Tighten Bolts
9. Fill oil git on the tool's main housing with clean engine oil to maintain lubrication during use. See Figure 14
-- Adding Oil to Tool.
Figure 14 -- Adding Oil to Tool
10. Carefully lower the cutter plate into the base and allow the cutter to rest on the counterbase ledge. Next,
zero out the depth set collars by rotating both depth set collars down until the bottom collar contacts the
main housing.
Do not force the collar beyond this point, as it will lift the cutter plate and prevent an accurate zero
reading.
11. Determine the final depth of cut and back off the top depth set collar accordingly. See Figure 15 --
Adjusting Top Collar.
Figure 15 -- Adjusting Top Collar
Figure 16 -- Counterbore
1. Counterbore dim. 0.188 in. (4.7498 mm) to 0.184 in. (4.6736 mm). This dim. must be maintained to
provide proper liner to deck extension.
Shims are available to re-establish the correct liner flange height.
12. Each graduation on the depth set collar increases the depth of cut by one thousandth (.001 in.) [0.0254
mm]. Tighten the thumb screw on the top collar securely. See Figure 17 -- Tightening Thumbscrew.
Figure 17 -- Tightening Thumbscrew
1. Graduation lines 2. Thumb screw
13. Back off the bottom depth set collar two graduations (or less) and tighten the thumb screw securely. See
Figure 18 -- Adjusting Bottom Depth Set Collar.
Figure 18 -- Adjusting Bottom Depth Set Collar
1. Bottom depth set collar 2. Thumb screw
14. Cut the counterbore by turning the T-handle clockwise and maintaining constant downward pressure on the
tool. See Figure 19 -- Turning the T-Handle.
Figure 19 -- Turning the T-Handle
Do not stop in the same handle position. Alternate where stopping to avoid creating a ridge in the
counterbore.
15. Continue backing off the lower depth set collar. See Figure 18 -- Adjusting Bottom Depth Set Collar. No
more than two graduations per cut and checking depth measurements between each adjustment using tool
J26948. See Figure 20 -- Checking Measurements.
Figure 20 -- Checking Measurements
16. Plan to take a (.001 in.) [0.0254 N•m] final cut to meet the final predetermined counterbore depth.
Once the predetermined depth has been reached, adjust the top calibrated depth set collar against the
lower collar and tighten the thumb screw securely. This will allow all other counterbores to be cut to the
same depth as the first.
Crankshaft Main Bearing Bore
If there is any indication that the bearing shells have turned in the block, check the bore surface to make certain
they are not damaged. Then replace main bearing caps and tighten capscrews to specified torque. Measure I.D.
of bore to make certain that correct size is maintained. Also check alignment of the bores.
Figure 21 -- Checking Bushing I.D.
2. If the bore size exceeds the tolerance, see fits and limits chart, or if there is any evidence of scratched or
scored bushings, it is recommended that all bushings be replaced.
3. Use Tool J21428-01 to remove bushings. See Figure 22 -- Removing Number 1 Bushing and Figure 23 --
Removing Remaining Bushings. Remove the number 1 bushing first, then the remaining six bushings.
Figure 22 -- Removing Number 1 Bushing
Figure 23 -- Removing Remaining Bushings
4. Check bushing bore diameter and finish in the block using a dial bore gauge before installing new bushing.
See Figure 24 -- Checking Bushing Bore.
Figure 24 -- Checking Bushing Bore
5. There are two camshaft bushing widths. The front camshaft bushing is the wider bushing; the other
bushings are of a narrower width. See Figure 25 -- Camshaft Bushing Arrangement for camshaft bushing
arrangement.
Number 2 through 7 cam bushings are the same width.
Figure 25 -- Camshaft Bushing Arrangement
Front camshaft bushing supplies oil to the injection pump drive and auxiliary shaft front bushing.*
Blocks have a cast groove in the number 2 and number 5 bushing bore. This provides an oil supply to the
rocker arm shafts.
Blocks have a cast groove in the number 4 bushing bore. This provides an oil supply to the auxiliary drive
shaft rear bushing, air compressor, and to a boss in the auxiliary drive housing.
*Engines with the captured thrust washer arrangement — see Figure 26 -- Front Camshaft Bushing
Information for front camshaft bushing information.
Figure 26 -- Front Camshaft Bushing Information
6. All bushings are located at set distances from the thrust washer mounting surface to the forward edge of
the bushings. Thrust washer must be removed when locating bushings. Refer to Figure 27 -- Bushing
Installation Dimensions for camshaft and auxiliary shaft bushing installation dimensions.
Figure 27 -- Bushing Installation Dimensions
1. Cylinder Head Gasket Locating Pins (four) 3. Auxiliary Drive Shaft Bushings (two)
2. Camshaft Bushings (seven)
Engines with the captured thrust washer arrangement require a smaller rear auxiliary shaft bushing.
*Engines with captured thrust washer 14.688 inch.
7. Use Tool J21428-01 to install bushings. See Figure 28 -- Installing Bushings.
Figure 28 -- Installing Bushings
The oil supply holes in the block must align with the oil holes in the bushings. See Figure 29 -- Align Oil
Supply Holes.
Install camshaft bushing in the following order: Number 7, Number 6, Number 5, Number 4, Number 3,
Number 2, and Number 1.
Figure 29 -- Align Oil Supply Holes
8. After bushings are in place, measure I.D. to ensure they are not undersize because of burrs on O.D. caused
by installation.
Refer to "Fits and Limits" for correct bushing I.D. dimensions.
INSTALLATION
Camshaft bushings must be installed prior to camshaft thrust washer installation.
1. Install the camshaft thrust washer at the front of the block in the cleaned counterbore using the proper
retaining pin. See Figure 30 -- Installing Camshaft Thrust Washer and Pin.
Figure 30 -- Installing Camshaft Thrust Washer and Pin
2. Make certain the pin does not protrude above surface of thrust washer. See Figure 31 -- Setting Pin Below
Flush.
Figure 31 -- Setting Pin Below Flush
INSTALLATION
Auxiliary shaft bushings must be installed prior to auxiliary shaft thrust washer installation.
Install the auxiliary shaft thrust washer with the retaining pin in the cleaned counterbore. See Figure 32 --
Installing Auxiliary Shaft Thrust Washer and Retaining Pin. Make certain that the pin does not protrude above
the surface of the thrust washer.
Figure 32 -- Installing Auxiliary Shaft Thrust Washer and Retaining Pin
Figure 33 -- Installing Captured Washer
Figure 34 -- Installing Captured Washer Capscrews
Torque auxiliary shaft captured washer capscrews 17 lbs. ft. See Figure 35 -- Tightening Capscrews.
Figure 35 -- Tightening Capscrews
Metric fasteners are used to hold the auxiliary shaft captured washer.
Auxiliary Shaft Bushings
Figure 36 -- Check Auxiliary Shaft Bushing
2. Use tool J21428-01 to remove bushings. If there is any indication that bushing has turned in block, check
bushing bore diameter in block.
INSTALLATION
1. Use tool J21428 to install bushings.
Front auxiliary shaft bushing must be flush to .010 inch recessed in the cylinder block.
2. Install the front auxiliary shaft bushing with the forward edge flush or slightly below the machined surface
of the auxiliary thrust washer mounting face.
3. To assemble the front bushing properly, the oil hole is positioned toward the front of engine. See Figure 37
-- Position Oil Hole Properly. (Make certain clinch butt joint is properly located. Refer to both notes.)
Figure 37 -- Position Oil Hole Properly
4. The rear bushing is located at a set dimension from the thrust washer mounting face. The oil hole in the
rear bushing is centrally located. See Figure 38 -- Oil Hole and Clinch Butt Joint Location.
Figure 38 -- Oil Hole and Clinch Butt Joint Location
When assembling the clinch butt joint must be positioned as shown in Figure 38 -- Oil Hole and Clinch Butt
Joint Location.
Engines with the captured thrust washer arrangement have a slotted oil hole in the front auxiliary shaft
bushing. Refer to Figure 38 -- Oil Hole and Clinch Butt Joint Location for oil hole and clinch butt joint
location.
Oil hole and clinch butt joint location for engines with the captured thrust washer arrangement. See Figure
39 -- Oil Hole and Clinch Butt Joint Locations.
Figure 39 -- Oil Hole and Clinch Butt Joint Locations
5. To facilitate locating hole for alignment of rear bushing during installation, mark the edge of the bushing
and maintain hole position with oil hole in block. See Figure 40 -- Marking Edge of Bushing.
Figure 40 -- Marking Edge of Bushing
Cylinder Liner Inspection (Includes Removal and Installation)
1. Using dial bore gauge, Tool J5347-01, check cylinder liner out of round and taper. Take readings in two
directions at each of three levels. See Figure 41 and Figure 42.
Figure 41
Figure 42
Figure 43
3. After honing, wash liner with a solution of household laundry detergent, and scrub with a stiff bristle brush
to remove as much of the honing debris as possible. Rinse with hot water and dry with compressed air.
4. Coat the liner bore with clean SAE 10 or 20 engine oil.
5. Wipe the lubricating oil from the liner bore with a white cloth or white paper towel. If the cloth or towel
shows evidence of gray or darker stains, this is an indication that honing debris is still present on the liner
wall. Repeat the oil application and wiping procedure until no evidence of stain appears on the cloth or
towel.
It is important that the liners are thoroughly cleaned as specified, to prevent premature ring, liner or
bearing wear, and possible engine failure.
6. Clean the liner flange using a brass wire rotating brush to ensure an accurate measurement of the flange
height above the block deck.
7. Using tool J26948 check cylinder liner flange height above block deck. See Figure 44.
Figure 44
Extension of cylinder liner above cylinder block deck must not vary more than 0.001 inch under the same
head.
8. The cylinder liner protrusion dimension is measured from the groove center in the flange to the top deck of
the block. See Figure 45.
Figure 45
REMOVAL
9. If the liner exceeds out-of-round or taper limits, or the flange height above the deck is not within
specifications, remove the liner from the cylinder block using tool J25065-C.
10. Position the tool mounting stand above the liner and guide the puller shaft through the liner. See Figure 46.
Extreme care must be taken to make sure the puller shoe is properly aligned in the bottom of the liner to
prevent damage to the block.
Figure 46
11. After the liner is removed, the block bore should be lightly cleaned to permit adequate checking of the
block bore, and to ensure good heat transfer.
12. Check cylinder block bore for out-of-round and taper. Using dial bore gauge, Tool J5347-01, take readings
at 180 degrees apart in two directions at each of three levels. See Figure 47.
Figure 47
OVERSIZE CYLINDER LINERS
14. Thoroughly clean cylinder block bores after boring is completed.
A. If the cylinder block deck is resurfaced, the cylinder liner counterbore depth must be re-cut to
specifications.
B. If the cylinder block deck is not resurfaced, but there is excessive pitting or erosion of cylinder liner
counterbore mounting surface, recut the counterbore as required. Shims are available to re-establish
the correct flange height.
Shims are available in the following thicknesses: 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.008, 0.010, 0.012, and 0.014 inch.
Always use the least amount of shims necessary to obtain the correct liner height. If more than one shim is
required, position the thickest shim on the bottom.
15. Thoroughly clean cylinder liner counterbore, to obtain accurate readings. See Figure 48.
Figure 48
16. Using tool J26948, measure cylinder liner counterbore depth. Counterbore dimensions 0.188-0.184 inch.
See Figure 49.
Figure 49
17. If cylinder liner shims are required, it is recommended to check each shim before installation. See Figure
50.
Figure 50
18. Position shim(s) into cylinder liner counterbore. (Always use the least amount of shims necessary to obtain
the correct liner height.) See Figure 51.
Figure 51
19. To ensure cylinder block bores are clean and to facilitate installation of liners, a clean up honing operation
is required.
20. Thoroughly clean block after any honing operations are completed.
When honing block bore, make certain that bore is held within tolerance shown in fits and limits charts.
LINER INSTALLATION
21. Install liner in bore. See Figure 52.
Figure 52
Liner installation depth may vary depending upon cylinder block to liner fit.
22. Complete the installation by using a large plastic-faced hammer, and tapping the liner close to the inside
diameter. Tap alternately from one side to another, gradually working around the entire circumference of
the liner.
23. When liner is within 1-1/2 inch above the deck, blow out the counterbore with compressed air to remove
any material that may have accumulated. See Figure 53.
Figure 53
See Figure 54.
24. After liner is fully seated, check flange height above deck, using tool, J26948. See Figure 54.
Figure 54
25. Check liner bores using dial bore gauge tool J5347-01, take readings at 180 degrees apart in two directions
at each of three levels. See Figure 55.
Figure 55
Oil Spray Nozzle Removal and Installation
1. Oil spray nozzles are removed by unbending lock tab. See Figure 56.
Figure 56
2. Loosen oil spray nozzle retaining screw. See Figure 57 and Figure 58.
Figure 57
Figure 58
3. Remove oil spray nozzle. See Figure 59.
Figure 59
Check the piston cooling nozzles to make certain they are not obstructed and do not show any signs of
physical damage.
4. Position the spray nozzle on the inside of the crankcase, along the piston cooling oil gallery at each
cylinder, and align the tang on the nozzle with the locating hole in the block. See Figure 60.
Figure 60
5. Install the tab washer and hollow mounting screw; and tighten finger tight. See Figure 61.
Figure 61
6. Torque oil spray nozzle retaining screw to 20 lbs. ft. See Figure 124.
Figure 124
The piston cooling oil spray location on the underside of the piston is important to ensure adequate heat
dissipation from the piston and make certain that the crankshaft counterweights or the connecting rods do
not strike the nozzles. If the nozzle is bent during assembly, it will be necessary to retarget the spray.
If the spray nozzles are badly deformed, do not attempt to realign them. The nozzles must be replaced.
To check the direction of the spray from the nozzles, proceed as follows, using tool J37721-1A.
7. Position rod in end of spray nozzles. See Figure 62.
Figure 62
8. Install one cylinder head capscrew through hole in target.
9. Position plastic target on cylinder block over cylinder to be checked. See Figure 63.
Figure 63
Do not attempt to bend a nozzle tube that is indicating over 1/8 inch off the marked area of the plastic
target. Replace nozzle.
The E6 engine cylinder block 239GB5485 uses E7 style piston cooling nozzles. All six of these piston cooling
nozzles are to be targeted in the stamped 1-2-3 target area (indicated by the white area) on the target
plate, J37721-1A. Target plate J37721-1A replaces J22963 target plate.
The E6 style piston cooling nozzles are not interchangeable with E7 production.
Figure 64 -- Target Plate
11. Bend tab lock into position. See Figure 65.
Figure 65
Figure 66 -- Method I
Figure 67 -- Method II
Figure 68 -- Method II (continued)
2. Check valve lifters for unusual wear patterns, such as galling, pitting, or cracking of the carbide face. See
Figure 69.
Figure 69
3. Replace questionable valve lifters.
4. Lubricate valve lifters with clean engine oil and install in the valve lifter bores. See Figure 70.
Figure 70
If engine is upright, make certain that the lifters are held in the "up" position before installing camshaft.
CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL BENCH PROCEDURES
Crankshaft Gear
INSPECTION
Inspect crankshaft gear for cranks, broken, or chipped teeth. If crankshaft gear is defective, the part must be
replaced. See Figure 1.
Figure 1
Remove crankshaft gear only for replacement purposes.
REMOVAL
Tap the end of the crank key lightly to remove. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
Using a J23759A three-jaw puller or equivalent, remove crankshaft gear. See Figure 3 and Figure 4.
Figure 3
Figure 4
INSTALLATION
Install crank key in crankshaft. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
Heat crankshaft gear to approximately 250°F. Align keyway and position larger chamfer of gear toward rear of
engine, with timing mark facing out. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
Push crankshaft gear onto crankshaft until gear bottoms. If necessary, drive gear in place. See Figure 7 and
Figure 8.
Figure 7
Figure 8
Some shafts may have journals which are 0.002 undersize. These are marked by a streak of white paint
adjacent to the journal. It is important that journals always be checked so that proper size bearings are used.
Figure 9
Use compressed air to clean out the oil passages. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
1.
INSPECTION
Inspect crankshaft journals for wear, out-of-round, taper and surface finish. See Figure 11 -- Inspecting Rod
Journals and Figure 12 -- Inspecting Main Journals.
Figure 11 -- Inspecting Rod Journals
Figure 12 -- Inspecting Main Journals
Using an O.D. micrometer to check rod and main journal O.D. it is recommended to take at least two readings
at 180 degrees apart of each journal.
If crankshaft journals are worn or out-of-round order a new or exchange kit through the Mack parts system.
New and exchange crankshafts are available through Mack Distribution Centers.
Regrinding of crankshafts by other than Mack Trucks, Inc. is not recommended due to tolerance requirements
and hardened fillet characteristics.
The crankshaft must be magnaflux inspected at each overhaul to check for cracks. This requires special
equipment and method of application. See Figure 13 -- Crankshaft Magnaflux Inspection.
Figure 13 -- Crankshaft Magnaflux Inspection
Flywheel
DESCRIPTION
The flywheel is of a special cast iron with the starter ring gear shrunk on the O.D. The flywheel is mounted to
the crankshaft rear flange with six capscrews.
INSPECTION
Inspect the flywheel face for burning, scoring and general conditions. Also, inspect the drive pins for wear and
proper alignment.
Pull the engine stop to prevent accidental starting. Engine may be rotated by hub bolt at front end of crankshaft,
or starter ring gear on flywheel. Always turn in direction of normal rotation as not to loosen hub bolt.
Before dial indicating engine flywheel or flywheel housing, make sure engine crankshaft does not have excessive
end play. If it does, accurate readings cannot be obtained. Place dial indicator finger against flywheel. Force
crankshaft back and forth with pry bar. If end play movement does not fall within the accepted range .004–
.011, it will have to be corrected. Keep crankshaft pushed fore or aft during check.
Check flywheel for face runout. Dial indicate flywheel face. Secure dial indicator to engine flywheel housing with
gauge finger against face of flywheel near the outer edge.
Turn flywheel, one full revolution to obtain readings. Allowable total indicated runout is 0.001 inch per inch of
flywheel radius determined by distance along radius from dial indicator tip to center of pilot bore. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
If runout is excessive, remove flywheel and check for mounting problems.
FLYWHEEL PILOT BEARING BORE
Secure dial indicator to flywheel housing. Move gauge finger to contact pilot bearing bore surface. Turn flywheel
one full revolution and obtain readings. SAE maximum total runout for the pilot bearing bore is .002 inch.
Indicator mounting base clearance may affect reading.
FLYWHEEL RESURFACING
If it is determined that the flywheel friction face must be resurfaced due to distortion, scoring, heat checks, etc.,
two critical dimensions must be observed.
First, measure the distance between the flywheel friction surface and the clutch cover mounting surface,
dimension "D". This dimension must be reestablished after the friction face is resurfaced to ensure trouble-free
operation. See Figure 15.
Second, measure the distance between the flywheel friction surface and the flywheel mounting bolt surface,
dimension "T". If the measured distance is less than the minimum allowed, do not resurface the flywheel. The
total maximum amount of material that may be removed from the flywheel friction surface is 0.070 inch to
ensure satisfactory longevity. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
Refer to the chart for acceptable minimum dimensions for the clutch models available.
Figure 16
Resurface or replace flywheel if the runout exceeds specifications.
Refer to this chart for acceptable minimum dimensions.
2. Replace if wear is evident, or if gear teeth are cracked, chipped, or broken.
3. Check the oil passages at the flange end of the drive shaft to make certain they aren't plugged, thrust
button arrangement only.
4. Check the oil passage at the threaded end. See Figure 1.
Figure 1
Camshaft Inspection
1. Thoroughly clean camshaft. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
2. Inspect camshaft lobes. Replace if cam lobes are worn or show evidence of cracks, pitting, or scoring. See
Figure 3.
Figure 3
3. Inspect camshaft journals. Replace if the journals are scored or worn. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
Use "Magnaflux" inspection procedure to detect cracks.
One method of checking for worn cam lobes is to measure cam lift at the push rod end. Minimum Lift .300.
CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON BENCH PROCEDURES
Figure 1
Use new capscrews on connecting rods at major overhaul.
Inspect and check bolt holes for pick up or elongation.
Inspect and check position of split in bushing and oil hole in piston pin end of rod. The bushing split must be on
the same side of the horizontal axis as the oil hole.
Check crankpin bore diameter. If not within specification, replace rod.
Make certain that caps and rods are kept together. These are stamped with the corresponding cylinder number.
See Figure 2 and Figure 3.
Figure 2
Figure 3
Check piston pin bushing diameter. If not within specifications, install new piston pin bushing. For removal and
installation of bushing, use tool J22781.
1. Position rod in arbor press, centering portion of tool J22781 so that oil passage in rod is on right hand side.
See Figure 4.
2. Align oil hole in bushing with oil hole in rod. Split in bushing must be on same side of the horizontal axis as
the oil hole. See Figure 4.
3. Press bushing into rod using the appropriate parts from tool kit J22781. See Figure 4.
4. After bushing is installed, burnish with tool J23198.
Figure 4
Bushing must be burnished in place to make certain that it is fully expanded in bore and will not loosen in
service.
Finish machine the piston pin bushing to proper size and surface finish.
Figure 5
New engines are built with connecting rods of a common P number weight class. When installing a single rod, or
less than a full set, examine the removed rod for part number and P number. The installation of the same art
number and P number is preferred, however, service may use rods that do not vary by more than one weight
class. For example, if a P2 weight class is not available, a P1 or P3 may be used. If P1 is used with P2, then P3
must not be used in this engine. See the following chart for typical weight classes.
Weight Class
To ensure that the proper weight class is used, the connecting rods should be weighed. Connecting rods for the
(8) counterweight crankshaft, the weight should not vary by more than 6.5 oz. between rods in one engine.
Figure 6 -- Four (4) Ring Groove Piston
Figure 7 -- 2 Inlet and 2 Exhaust Valve Pockets
Inspect the piston ring grooves, lands, piston skirt and combustion bowl, for wear, scuffing, cracks, or blow-by.
Discard defective pistons.
PISTON MEASUREMENTS
Check size of the piston pin bore and the condition of the piston pin retaining ring grooves.
Check piston diameter. This should be measured on the major axis of the piston skirt (90 degrees to the piston
pin). Take measurements at 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, and 3/4 inch from the bottom of the piston. Note the largest
diameter. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
1. 1/4 inch 3. 3/4 inch
2. 1/2 inch
MEASURING LINER
Measure the inside diameter of cylinder liner using J5347-01. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
Subtract the largest piston diameter from the liner diameter to determine the piston to liner running clearance.
If within specifications, lightly stamp piston number for that bore.
Figure 10
Before installing rings on piston, check keystone ring groove wear and ring end gap.
2. Check ring gap with a thickness gauge to make certain it conforms to specifications. If gap is not to
specifications, check ring in another bore and/or use new ring. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
Do not file or grind chrome plate rings. Flaking of chrome plate may occur, which could lead to ring failure.
Standard 4-5 inch micrometer
J29510 piston ring groove gauge
1. The piston ring groove gauge tool, J29510, consists of two 0.120 diameter pins. The pins are connected by
two springs. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
2. Place pins of tool J29510 in groove to be measured diametrically opposite each other and parallel to the pin
bore. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
3. Using a standard micrometer, measure across pins. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
Each compression ring groove must be measured in two places: perpendicular and parallel to the pin bore.
4. Next, place pins of tool J29510 in groove to be measured diametrically opposite to each other and
perpendicular to the pin bore. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
5. Using a standard micrometer, measure across pins. See Figure 16.
Figure 16
Record both readings of piston ring groove and compare with those in the Fits and Limits Chart. Replace piston
if any one measurement on a particular piston is less than figure given in chart.
Figure 17
1. Side Clearance
Service wear limit for six cylinder piston oil ring groove.
1. For a new ring and used piston, a side clearance of .001/.0045 is acceptable, if greater than .0045 replace
piston.
2. For a new ring and new piston the oil ring side clearance is .001/.0035.
J29413-5 — Six cylinder 4-7/8 inch bore piston ring expander handle
J29413-487 — Expander ring (used in conjunction with J29413-5)
1. Use the proper size ring installation tool, J29413-5 and J29413-487 to prevent breakage or distortion. See
Figure 18.
Figure 18
2. Identification markings on rings should face top of piston. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
3. Install the rings in their proper grooves. Follow ring installation instructions included in piston ring set.
Figure 20
The piston ring gaps are positioned by the location of the valve pockets, inlet or exhaust. See Figure 21 -- No. 1
and 3 Ring Caps and Figure 22 -- No. 2 and 4 Ring Caps.
Figure 21 -- No. 1 and 3 Ring Caps
Figure 22 -- No. 2 and 4 Ring Caps
Since the difference in thickness is not readily identifiable, other means have been used to identify these
bearings.
1. The upper (or rod) half has an oil hole, and on the back of the bearing it is stamped "Upper" and is color
coded — yellow.
2. The lower (or cap) half does not have an oil hole and on the back of the bearing it is stamped "Lower"and
is color coded — green.
Connecting rod bearings are available in the following undersizes: 0.002 in., 0.010 in., 0.020 in., 0.030 in.
Position the piston on its crown with the arrow on the crown (see Figure 4 ) in the same relation to the forged
"Front" marking on the connecting rod.
Align the connecting rod piston pin bore with the hole in the piston.
Lubricate the piston pin and hand press the pins through the piston pin bores. See Figure 23 .
Figure 23
After pin is fully inserted, install the remaining retaining ring, making certain it is properly seated in the groove
and the sharp edge faces outward. See Figure 24 .
Figure 24
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL
After the cylinder heads are removed from the block, they must be disassembled and cleaned.
Figure 1
2. Depress tool handle until valve spring is compressed. Remove valve spring washer keys using magnet or
screwdriver. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
Valve spring keeper removal tool J29294 must be repositioned for each series of valves (two inlet and two
exhaust per cylinder). Drilled and tapped holes are provided per cylinder.
3. Remove upper washer. See Figure 3.
Figure 3
4. Remove valve spring. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
5. Remove lower washer (Roto-Coil) and valve. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
6. Figure 6 shows one inlet and exhaust valve assembly.
Figure 6
Pressure Test — It is recommended the cylinder heads be pressurized and checked for internal cracks and leaks.
Inspection
Check cylinder head deck surface for flatness or imperfections. Deck surface must be flat within 0.0015 inches
over 18 inches. Replace or resurface as required.
Remove a minimum amount of material from deck to obtain a flat and uniform surface. Standard head height is
6.397–6.391 inches. A maximum of 0.010 inches may be removed, making the minimum height of a resurfaced
head 6.381 inches. See Figure 7 -- Head Height.
Figure 7 -- Head Height
1. 6.397–6.391 inches Standard Height (6.381 Minimum Service)
When deck is resurfaced, fire ring groove and valve seat insert dimensions must be reestablished. Correct
dimensions are shown in this section.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The fire ring grooves are located in the cylinder head. Circular grooves that correspond with the fire ring
machined lip on the cylinder liner. This design forms a locking groove in the steel fire ring and provides a
positive combustion pressure seal. Refer to Figure 8 for fire ring groove dimensions.
Figure 8
When deck is resurfaced, fire ring groove depth must be reestablished. Use tool J29600-B. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
1. Alignment Fixture 5. Cutter Head
2. Hold-Down Bolts 6. Wing Nuts
3. Spacers 7. Feeler Gauges
4. Washers 8. Cutter Base
GROOVE CUTTING PROCEDURE
1. Place cutter base on cylinder head. Insert hold-down bolts into the mounting holes of the appropriate
application until the hold-down bolts bottom-out in the mounting holes. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
With the purchase of additional cutter parts, setup time can be significantly reduced. J29600 fire ring
groove cutter can locate up to three cutting plates on a 6 cylinder head.
2. Position cylinder head so threaded section of the hold-down bolts can be reached. Install spacer, washer
and wing nut. Lightly tighten wing nut. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
The cutting base must be free to move.
3. Spacer, washer and wing nut installed. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
4. Place the alignment fixture over the cutter base. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
5. The alignment fixture will properly position the cutter base. With fixture in place, tighten wing nuts on the
hold-down bolts. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
6. Remove the alignment fixture.
7. Install cutter head on cutter base. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
8. The desired finished fire ring groove is .008 inch.
A. If no fire ring groove is visible, insert two .008 inch thickness gauges between the cutter head and the
cutter base.
B. If fire ring groove is visible, check the existing fire ring groove depth dimension with depth gauge
J26948. The difference between .008 inch and the actual remaining depth of the fire ring groove is the
amount to recut. Insert two appropriate thickness gauges between the cutter head and the cutter
base.
Figure 16
9. Adjust the cutter head bit until it bottoms out on the deck surface or existing fire ring groove. See Figure
17.
Figure 17
10. Tighten cutter head bit in this position and remove the two thickness gauges.
11. Install a socket and "T" handle to cutter head. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
12. Using "T" handle, rotate cutter head in clockwise direction only, applying an even downward pressure to cut
fire ring groove. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
13. After groove is cut, remove cutter head and cutter base from cylinder head. Then de-burr the area around
the fire ring groove with a honing stone.
14. Check fire ring groove depth with depth gauge J26948 to verify the groove depth meets specifications. If
incorrect, recut necessary amount as required.
15. Repeat above procedures with each fire ring groove cut.
Always adjust cutting tool height when cutting the next groove to insure proper groove depth.
Figure 20
1. Exhaust Valve Guide 5. Valve Guide Extension (fire deck to 5.49 ± 0.30 top
of guide)
2. Inlet Valve Guide
6. Valve Guide Bore-In Head (0.687–0.686 inches)
3. (7/16 valve stem) Valve Guide Ream I.D. (after
installation 0.438–0.437) Inlet and Exhaust (3/8 valve 7. Valve Guide O.D. (0.6886–0.6881 inches)
stem) Valve Guide Ream I.D. (after installation
0.3755–0.3745)
4. Top End of Guide to Valve Spring Seat (.951
± .030)
INSPECTION
1. Inspect valve guides for wear, damage and looseness.
2. Use a small bore gauge to obtain accurate bore measurements. See Figure 21.
Figure 21
3. Use a depth gauge to check valve guide extension. See Figure 22.
Figure 22
It is recommended that when reconditioning the cylinder head, all valve guides be replaced.
Clean the exhaust valve guide O.D. (shoulder) before removal, using a rotary wire brush, to prevent scoring of
exhaust valve guide bore.
1. Insert valve guide removing tool, into valve guide from head deck. See Figure 23.
7/16 Valve Stem, use tool, J29299
3/8 Valve Stem, use tool, J37482
Figure 23
2. Press out the old valve guides from the head deck. See Figure 24.
Figure 24
3. After guides have been removed from head, check the mating surface in the head for wear or cracks.
4. Clean surfaces thoroughly and check I.D. Refer to Figure 20.
7/16 Valve Guide Installer, J37862
3/8 Valve Guide Installer, J37809
Figure 25
2. Oil O.D. of new guide before installation. See Figure 26.
Figure 26
3. Press new valve guide into top of head using tool J29300. See Figure 27.
Figure 27
4. Using a depth gauge, check the extension of the valve guide from the valve spring seat to the top end of
the guide. See Figure 28.
Figure 28
5. Ream the new valve guide using tool to dimension shown in Figure 29.
7/16 Valve Stem use tool, J29301
3/8 Valve Stem use tool, J37481
Figure 29
Valve Seat Insert Replacement
Inlet Valve Seat Insert
1. Valve Seat Insert Face Angle (30°— 0'/+30') 3. Valve Seat
2. Valve Seat Insert Diameter (1.832–1.831 Inches) 4. Valve Seat Width (0.066 ± 0.015 Inches)
Exhaust Valve Seat Insert
1. Valve Seat Insert Face Angle (30°— 0'/+30') 3. Valve Seat
2. Valve Seat Insert Diameter (1.693–1.692 Inches) 4. Valve Seat Width (0.066 ± 0.015 Inches)
INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect valve seat inserts for cracks or other defects.
2. Check valve seat inserts for tightness. Position a drift (or similar blunt nose tool) on top of insert and tap
end of drift with hammer. If a ringing-type sound is heard, the insert is tight. If a dull, thud-type sound is
heard, the insert is loose. See Figure 30.
Figure 30
VALVE SEAT INSERT REMOVAL
1. If inserts are defective or loose, remove from head, use valve set extractor kit PT6391, and collect tool
PT6390-34 for exhaust and inlet seat inserts. See Figure 31.
Figure 31
1. Grinding wheels 6. Grinder base
2. T-handle and shaft assembly 7. Grinder
3. Collet* 8. Wrenches
4. Allen head wrench 9. Dressing stone
5. Lifting bridge
*Collet PT6390-034 is not included in basic kit PT6391.
2. Measure the distance from the surface of the cylinder head to the point on the insert where the groove will
be ground. See Figure 32.
This point should be approximately .060 inches below any angular face on the valve seat insert.
Figure 32
3. Install a grinding wheel into the grinder and set the depth of the grinder base to the dimension found in the
preceding step. See Figure 33.
Figure 33
4. Secure base to grinder by tightening screw. See Figure 34.
Figure 34
5. Grind a groove around the inside circumference of the valve seat insert. See Figure 35.
Figure 35
6. Groove should be ground approximately .030 inches deep. See Figure 36.
Figure 36
7. Attach collect to T-handle and shaft assembly. See Figure 37.
Figure 37
8. Locate collet in the valve seat insert so that the ridge of the collet will be inside groove. Turn T-handle to
fully expand collet. See Figure 38.
Figure 38
9. Position the lifting bridge under crank handle. See Figure 39.
Figure 39
10. Turn the crank handle to lift the insert. See Figure 40.
Figure 40
11. A slight turn of the threaded shaft releases the insert from the collet. See Figure 41.
Figure 41
Figure 42 -- Valve Seat Insert Counterbore
1. Exhaust Valve Guide 4. Inlet Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Diameter
(1.8295–1.8285 inches)
2. Inlet Valve Guide 5. Exhaust Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Diameter
(1.6885–1.6875 inches)
3. Valve Seat at Counterbore Depth: Exhaust =
0.376–0.372 in. Inlet = 0.364–0.360 in.
Counterbore Inspection
12. With the valve seat insert removed, clean surfaces thoroughly with a wire brush. See Figure 43.
Figure 43
13. Check the surface finish, counterbore diameter, and depth. See Figure 44 and Figure 45.
Figure 44
Figure 45
Refer to Figure 42 -- Valve Seat Insert Counterbore legend for specifications.
The inlet valve seat counterbore in head is (1.8295–1.8285 inches).
Exhaust Valve Seat Insert
The exhaust valve seat insert counterbore in head is (1.6885–1.6875 inches).
Oversize inlet and exhaust valve seat inserts are available (0.005, 0.015, 0.031, 0.047, and 0.062 inches) if
counterbore requires machining.
Install the inserts using the following procedure:
1. Using valve seat insert counterbore, HT77136. See Figure 46.
Figure 46
2. These are the recommended valve seat insert installation tools: inlet (driver), J29302-1, and exhaust
(driver), J29302-2. See Figure 47.
Figure 47
3. Position valve seat insert over respective counterbore. See Figure 48.
Figure 48
4. Using driver handle J8092, drive valve seat insert into head. See Figure 49.
Figure 49
5. Grind inlet/exhaust valve seat inserts to a 30°—0'/+30' angle. See Figure 50.
Figure 50
If valve seat insert widths exceed specifications when regrinding inserts, use 15° angle grinding stone to
obtain correct width.
6. After the grinding has been completed, clean the valve seat insert thoroughly.
7. Determine the concentricity of each valve seat insert relative to the valve guide. Valve seat runout is to be
held within 0.001 F.I.M. (Full Indicator Movement) with finished valve guide I.D. measurements made from
a snug fitting arbor and through mounted into the finished valve guides. See Figure 51.
Figure 51
8. After the valve seat insert has been ground, determine the position of the contact area between the valve
and the valve seat insert.
9. Apply a dab of Prussion blue at (4) points 90° apart to the valve face. See Figure 52.
Figure 52
10. Lower the stem of the valve in the valve guide and rotate the valve on the insert 90°. This procedure will
indicate the area of contact on the valve seat insert face. Properly ground inserts should have full pattern
on the insert. See Figure 53.
Figure 53
11. After the valve seat inserts have been ground and checked, thoroughly clean the cylinder head before
installing the valves.
Figure 54 -- Inlet Valve Seat Angle
Figure 55 -- Exhaust Valve Seat Angle
2. To permit positive identification, the exhaust valve has two grooves, and inlet one groove on the valve
stem. See Figure 56.
Figure 56
The inlet and exhaust head diameters are nearly the same size. It is important, therefore, that extra care
be taken when assembling these valves.
3. Also, the exhaust valve has the letter "E." The inlet valve has the letter "I" forged in a slight depression in
the top of the head. See Figure 57.
Figure 57
Figure 58
Surface irregularities on the I.D. of the spring can become points of high stress concentration and could result in
spring failure.
Check spring on universal spring tester J22738-02.
If spring face does not meet specifications, discard spring and install new set.
2. Assemble valve spring (Roto Coil), valve spring, valve spring washer, and key.
3. After valves are assembled, check each inlet valve for head height above cylinder deck. See Figure 60.
Figure 60
4. The protrusion dimension for the inlet valve should be .0425 ± .007 inches. See Figure 61.
Figure 61
5. Check each exhaust valve for head depth below cylinder deck. See Figure 62.
Figure 62
6. The dimension for the exhaust valve should be .0414 ± .007 inches. See Figure 63.
Figure 63
GENERAL INFORMATION
1. The injection nozzle holder insert is a press fit in the cylinder head. See Figure 64.
Figure 64
1. Cylinder Head 2. Injection Nozzle Holder Insert
2. The injection nozzle holder bore is machined in cylinder head to provide a press fit for holder. See Figure
65.
Figure 65
3. The injection nozzle holder insert is machined to provide a press fit in cylinder head. See Figure 66.
Figure 66
INJECTION NOZZLE HOLDER INSERT REMOVAL
1. To remove injection nozzle insert, tap I.D. with 3/4-10 tap. See Figure 67.
Figure 67
2. Install nozzle sleeve puller J29880 to slide hammer J2619-01 or equivalent. See Figure 68.
Figure 68
3. Thread slide hammer into end of nozzle holder insert. Using slide hammer, proceed to remove insert. See
Figure 69.
Figure 69
INJECTION NOZZLE HOLDER INSERT INSTALLATION
1. Thoroughly clean area before insert installation. See Figure 70.
Figure 70
2. To install insert, use nozzle sleeve installer J29297. See Figure 71.
Figure 71
3. Apply Loctite 620 to the upper and lower end of the new insert. See Figure 72 and Figure 73.
Figure 72
Figure 73
4. Using tool J29297, drive insert into cylinder head until it bottoms in lower counterbore face. See Figure 74.
Figure 74
Valve Yoke Guide Pin Replacement
INSPECTION
1. The valve yoke guide pins are located between the valve guides. See Figure 75.
Figure 75
2. Inspect the valve yoke guide pin surface. Also check diameter and installed height of pin. See Figure 76.
Figure 76
1. Valve Yoke Guide Pin
REMOVAL
1. To remove pin, use valve yoke guide pin puller kit, PT6575, and extractor, PT6570-011 (7/16"). See Figure
77.
Figure 77
1. Puller Assembly 3. Valve Yoke Guide Pin
2. Extractor
2. Install extractor over pin and position extractor lock over extractor. See Figure 78.
Figure 78
1. Extractor Lock (part of puller assembly)
3. Using slide hammer, proceed to remove pin. See Figure 79.
Figure 79
INSTALLATION
1. If new pin is required, use Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer J29296. See Figure 80.
Figure 80
2. Drive pin into cylinder head until tool J29296 bottoms on cylinder head. See Figure 81.
Figure 81
Figure 82
3. Use Loctite "277" sealer or equivalent and apply to cup plug and cup plug bore in head. See Figure 83.
Figure 83
4. Using cup plug installer J34684 (13/16 cup plugs) and cup plug installer J34687 (1-1/16 cup plugs), install
cup plugs in cylinder head. See Figure 84.
Figure 84
Cup plug should be installed flush to 0.020 inch below machined surface.
Use a pre-applied, dry pipe thread sealant to pipe plug and pipe plug bore in head.
1. Install 1/16 pipe plugs in ends of cylinder head. Plugs must not extend beyond the machined surface.
Torque to specifications. See Figure 85.
Figure 85
2. Install a 1/8 pipe plug in the top of the rear cylinder head. See Figure 86.
Figure 86
3. Install core hole pipe plugs in cylinder head. Torque to specifications. See Figure 87.
Figure 87
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT BENCH PROCEDURES
Figure 1 -- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (Without Dynatard Engine Brake)
1. Exhaust rocker arm 8. Mounting capscrews and washers
2. Rocker arm shaft bracket (with oil locating hole) 9. Rocker arm shaft cap plug
3. Rocker arm adjusting screw 10. Flat washer
4. Inlet rocker arm 11. Coil spring
5. Shaft retaining (coil) spring 12. Rocker arm shaft
6. Rocker arm shaft bracket 13. Bracket locating screw
7. Rocker arm adjusting screw locknut
Figure 2 -- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (With Dynatard Engine Brake)
1. Hydraulic lash adjuster 10. Flat spring
2. Exhaust rocker arm 11. Mounting capscrews and washers
3. Rocker arm shaft bracket (with oil locating hole) 12. Shaft flat spring
4. Rocker arm adjusting screw locknut 13. Shaft retaining snap ring
5. Inlet rocker arm 14. Threaded plugs
6. Shaft retaining (coil) spring 15. Solenoid
7. Rocker arm shaft bracket 16. Rocker arm shaft
8. Rocker arm adjusting screw 17. Bracket locating screw
9. Retaining snap ring 18. Hydraulic lash adjuster locknut
Inspection
Make certain that all components of the rocker arm and bracket assembly are in satisfactory condition.
Assembly Procedure
Assembly procedure for rocker arm shaft with engine brake is described. The rocker arm bracket mounting
dimensions are the same for both non-brake and brake assemblies. The non-brake has springs between both
inner exhaust rocker arms. See Figure 1 -- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (Without Dynatard Engine Brake).
The engine brake arrangement includes exhaust valve rocker arms with lash adjusters, and a solenoid mounted
in the rocker arm shaft. See Figure 2 -- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (With Dynatard Engine Brake).
1. Position shaft so that screw locating hole is in line with bracket locating screw hole. See Figure 3.
Figure 3
2. The offset side of bracket must be positioned towards the right side of the engine. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
3. Assemble bracket with center threaded hole on press table. Press shaft into bracket until oil hole in shaft is
positioned under threaded hole in bracket. See Figure 5 and Figure 6.
Figure 5
Figure 6
4. Assemble lock washer on locating screw. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
5. Thread locating screw into bracket. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
6. After locating screw is assembled, torque to 9 lbs. ft. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
7. Lubricate inlet rocker arm. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
8. Assemble an inlet rocker arm on the shaft. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
9. Lubricate valve rocker arm adjusting screw and assemble into inlet rocker arm. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
10. Install valve rocker arm adjusting nut. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
11. Assemble rocker arm shaft retaining (coil) spring on shaft. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
12. Lubricate exhaust rocker arm. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
13. Assemble an exhaust rocker arm on the shaft. See Figure 16.
Figure 16
14. Lubricate the hydraulic lash adjuster. See Figure 17.
Figure 17
15. Assemble adjuster in exhaust rocker arm. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
16. Assemble locking nut on the hydraulic lash adjuster, and torque to 28 lbs. ft. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
17. Place the center (second) rocker arm shaft bracket and shaft on a flat surface. This bracket does not have
a threaded hole on top or an oil hole at the bottom surface. Align the mounting surface of bracket with the
bracket which is already assembled. See Figure 20.
Figure 20
18. Press shaft into rocker arm bracket until centerline of mounting holes in brackets are spaced 5.750 in. (146
mm) apart. Note offset position of brackets. See Figure 21 and Figure 22.
Figure 21
Figure 22
At this point a used or scraped head can be used as a template for proper bracket alignment and to ensure
mounting surfaces of each bracket are parallel. See Figure 23.
Figure 23
19.
20. Assemble an inlet rocker arm on the shaft. See Figure 24.
Figure 24
21. A flat spring and retaining snap ring are required to hold inlet and exhaust rocker arms in place. (Engine
brake engines only.) See Figure 25.
Figure 25
Refer to step 11. (Non-engine brake engines.)
22. Install the flat spring and retaining snap ring for the inlet rocker arm. See Figure 26 and Figure 27.
Figure 26
Figure 27
23. Install the retaining snap ring and the flat spring for the exhaust rocker arm. See Figure 28 and Figure 29.
Figure 28
Figure 29
24. Assemble exhaust rocker arm on the shaft. See Figure 30.
Figure 30
25. Place the last (third) rocker arm shaft bracket and shaft on a flat surface. This bracket does not have a
threaded hole on top or an oil hole at the bottom surface. Align the mounting surface of bracket with the
two brackets already assembled. See Figure 31.
Figure 31
26. Press shaft into rocker arm bracket until centerline of mounting holes in brackets are spaced 5.750 in. (146
mm) apart. Note offset position of brackets. See Figure 32 and Figure 33.
Figure 32
Figure 33
27. Check for proper bracket alignment and to insure mounting surfaces of each bracket are parallel. See
Figure 34.
Figure 34
28. Assemble outermost exhaust rocker arm. See Figure 35.
Figure 35
29. Install the flat spring and retaining snap ring on the end of the shaft, to retain the exhaust rocker arm in
place. (Engine brake engines only.) See Figure 36 and Figure 37.
Figure 36
Figure 37
30. On assemblies used with non-brake engines, install coil springs, flat washers, and threaded cap plugs on
I.D. of shaft, both ends. Refer to Figure 1 -- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (Without Dynatard Engine
Brake). And torque to specifications.
31. Assemble outermost inlet rocker arm. See Figure 38.
Figure 38
32. Install the flat spring and retaining snap ring on the end of the shaft, to retain the inlet rocker arm in place.
(Engine brake engine only.) See Figure 39 and Figure 40.
Figure 39
Figure 40
33. Install threaded plugs at both ends of shaft. (Engine brake engine only.) See Figure 41.
Figure 41
34. Check all rocker arms to make certain they rotate freely. See Figure 42.
Figure 42
Dynatard Solenoid Installation
1. On shaft assemblies for engine brake use, install solenoid mounting adapter seal (O-ring) in counterbore in
shaft. See Figure 43.
Figure 43
2. Using clean engine oil, lubricate solenoid mounting threads. See Figure 44.
Figure 44
3. Assemble solenoid mounting adapter into shaft, and torque solenoid mounting adapter to 23–25 lb. ft. (31–
34 N•m) with "crows-foot" adapter and a calibrated torque wrench. See Figure 45.
Figure 45
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH PROCEDURES
Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the oil pump housing cover from the oil pump housing. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump
(3).
2. Bend the oil pressure relief valve cap lock tab away from cap. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump
(14).
3. Remove oil pressure relief valve cap. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (15).
4. Remove oil pressure relief valve spring. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (13).
5. Remove oil pressure relief valve plunger. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (12).
Clean and inspect spring for breaks. If broken, replace with new.
Clean and inspect seating surface for burrs and nicks. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
a. If the seat surface has burrs or nicks, it must be lapped. Place valve lapping compound on plunger
seat. See Figure 3 -- Applying Lapping Compound.
Figure 3 -- Applying Lapping Compound
b. Seat plunger in relief valve housing and oscillate. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
6. Slide oil pump idler gear off shaft. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (6).
7. Turn pump upside down and remove the oil pump driving shaft nut. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil
Pump (1).
8. Pull oil pump drive gear off shaft. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (2).
9. Remove driving gear key. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (4).
10. Remove driven gear with shaft from housing. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (5).
11. Remove oil pump inlet flange cover and gasket from housing. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump
(10 and 9).
After removing all parts from the oil pump housing, thoroughly clean the housing. Inspect the housing for
scoring or other damage. If the housing is damaged, it must be replaced.
1. Check the bushings in the oil pump housing for burrs, nicks, or cracks. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
The bushings are an integral part of the oil pump housing. If they are damaged, oil pump housing must be
replaced.
2. Check the oil pump idler gear for free play by spinning it on its shaft. If it is binding, check the housing
bore for burrs or nicks and check the gear teeth edges for burrs. If the housing is damaged, it must be
replaced. If the gear is damaged, it must be replaced.
3. Insert driven gear in housing and check for free play by spinning. If it binds, check the housing for burrs or
nicks. Check the driven gear for burrs or nicks. If the housing is damaged, it must be replaced. If the gear
is damaged, the gear and shaft must be replaced. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
To maintain the correct oil pressure for the various oil system arrangements, the proper oil pressure relief valve
spring and cap combination must be used. See Figure at the end of the oil pump assembly. The use of incorrect
parts will result in either high or low oil pressure. This factor can contribute to premature internal engine part
failure.
1. Install the oil pressure relief valve plunger in the relief valve housing. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil
Pump (12).
2. Install the oil pressure relief valve spring in the relief valve housing. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil
Pump (13).
Figure 7
3. Put the oil pressure relief valve cap lock tab over spring. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
4. Clean oil pressure relief valve cap and install in relief valve housing. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
5. Bend locking tab edge to side of cap to lock in position. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
6. Install oil pump inlet flange cover and gasket on housing with nylon patch capscrews. See Figure 1 --
Sectional View of Oil Pump (11).
7. Position the oil pump driving shaft thrust washer pin housing, making sure the notch is toward the corner
of the pump. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (5).
8. Drive the oil pump idler gear shaft into position.
9. Install oil pump driving gear key on driven gear shaft. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
10. Install driven gear with shaft in housing and check for free spin. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
11. Install idler gear on its shaft. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
Before proceeding with assembly, check the end clearance, side clearance, and backlash of the drive gears
as follows:
Figure 14
b. High Limit— With the straight edge in position as in step "a," run a 0.007 inch thickness gage under
the straight edge. This should be very tight. If it passes freely or loose, replace the gears. See Figure
15.
Figure 15
Figure 16
BACKLASH CHECK
a. Low Limit— Insert a 0.013 inch thickness gage between the gears. This should pass through without
binding. If it binds, check the gears for burrs or nicks, replace as needed.
b. High Limit— Insert a 0.028 inch thickness gage between the gears. This should not pass through. If it
does, replace gears. See Figure 17.
Figure 17
12. Remove the idler gear and invert pump.
It is extremely important that the pump application be checked before assembly of the drive gear. Several
drive gears are available to establish the correct oil pump gear to auxiliary drive gear ratio combination.
Failure to select the proper drive gear for the correct application will result in immediate gear and engine
damage. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
1. Oil Pump Shaft Gear 2. Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear
Shaft Gears
13. Place the oil pump shaft driving gear on shaft aligning slot in gear with key on shaft. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
14. Press drive gear on shaft.
The gear is marked "TOP" on one end of the gear. This side must face up when installing the gear on the
shaft.
15. Place self-locking nut on shaft and torque to 60 lb. ft. See Figure 1 -- Sectional View of Oil Pump (1).
16. Invert pump and put idler gear in place. Check the face of the oil pump housing cover for nicks and burrs.
If it is damaged so it cannot be repaired, it must be replaced.
17. Position the cover over the housing.
18. Apply Loctite to capscrew threads and tighten. See Figure 20.
Figure 20
Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve Cap and Spring Combination Chart
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH PROCEDURES
GENERAL INFORMATION
Figure 1
Figure 2 -- Oil Cooler Assembly — Exploded View
ESI engines feature a "removable bundle" type oil cooler. Periodic inspection of the oil cooler will indicate
whether the gasket, O-ring, and core are sound. If problems are encountered the oil cooler may be serviced by
replacing the damaged parts. Periodic reverse flow flushing of the cooling system will also clean the coolant
section of the oil cooler.
The presence of engine oil in the coolant may indicate loosened, worn, or damaged parts within the oil cooler, or
internal engine problems.
Figure 3
2. Removing water outlet end cap. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
3. Remove bundle from housing. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
4. Scrape off and cover gaskets. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
5. Remove oil supply line gasket. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
6. Remove O-ring from housing. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
Visually inspect the housing for cracks which could lead to a leak. If the housing is damaged, replace with
new.
7. The oil cooler bundle should be checked for leaks by pressurizing with 80 PSI air pressure and submerging
in water. If leaks develop, replace bundle with new. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
Figure 10
2. Install O-ring in groove at water outlet end of the oil cooler. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
3. Spread Perma-Tex gasket sealer on inlet water flange before installing gasket. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
4. Install gasket on water inlet end of housing. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
5. Spread Perma-Tex gasket sealer on top of gasket. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
6. Install bundle. Tap last 1/2 inch with a soft-faced hammer to seat bundle past O-ring. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
7. Tap Bundle into Housing. See Figure 16.
Figure 16
8. Spread Perma-Tex gasket sealer on bundle end. See Figure 17.
Figure 17
9. Place gasket on bundle end. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
10. Spread Perma-Tex gasket sealer on top of gasket before installing the end cap. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
11. Install water inlet and cap. See Figure 20.
Figure 20
12. Torque inlet end cap capscrews to 13 lb. ft. See Figure 21.
Figure 21
To install the water outlet end cap, spread Perma-Tex gasket sealer on housing flange. Place the gasket on
the sealer then put seal on top of the gasket. Install the end cap and torque capscrews to 13 lb. ft.
PRESSURE TEST (OIL COOLER ASSEMBLY)
1. Install a steel plate with a rubber gasket and an air line fitting on the oil inlet opening. See Figure 22.
Figure 22
2. Install a steel plate with a rubber gasket on the oil outlet opening. See Figure 23.
Figure 23
3. When pressure testing complete oil cooler assembly, start with a pressure regulator in line and apply air
pressure at 2 to 5 psi maximum. Then gradually increase pressure slowly, checking for leaks until 80 psi is
reached.
4. Connect air line and pressurize to 80 PSI. Submerge in water to check for leaks. See Figure 24.
Figure 24
2. Remove the key from the pulley end of the shaft. See Figure 25.
Figure 25
3. Remove snap ring from pulley end of housing. See Figure 26.
Figure 26
4. Separate the water pump housing cover from the housing.
5. Remove the stainless steel rotor using tool J26861-2. The early production cast iron rotors must be pressed
off.
The bearing will be an interference fit with the shaft.
6. Press the shaft and the bearing out of the cover from the cylinder block end. See Figure 27.
Figure 27
7. Remove O-ring from the rear bearing support.
8. Press the shaft out of the bearings and spacer. See Figure 28.
Figure 28
Clean the shaft, slinger, and spacer. Check for nicks, cracks, or burrs. If these parts are damaged, replace
with new. It is recommended, when reconditioning the water pump, that the bearings be replaced.
Figure 29
Before installing bearings on shaft, pack with Mack type MPG grease. Also, pack the cavity in the neck of
the housing cover 1/3 full of the same grease.
2. Press inner, single row bearing on shaft with the sealed end toward the slinger. See Figure 30.
Figure 30
Bearing must be an interference fit with the shaft.
3. Slide on spacer.
Figure 31
4. Press outer, double row bearing on shaft with open end toward spacer. See Figure 32.
Figure 32
Bearing must be an interference fit.
WATER PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLY
1. Grease O-Ring. See Figure 33.
Figure 33
2. Install O-ring in lower neck of housing. See Figure 34.
Figure 34
3. Lubricate the outer rim of the inner bearing on the shaft assembly. See Figure 35.
Figure 35
4. Install shaft assembly in housing. See Figure 36.
Figure 36
The transition fit between both bearings (O.D.) and the cover must be 0.0005" loose to 0.0005 tight.
5. Press the shaft into the housing. See Figure 37.
Figure 37
6. Install snap ring in outer end of cover. See Figure 38.
Figure 38
7. Invert housing and apply sealant to the water pump seal cartridge outside diameter.
Figure 39
8. Place seal on shaft with larger cartridge end toward housing. See Figure 40.
Figure 40
9. While supporting pulley end of the shaft, press seal into position to an installed working height of 4.425".
10. Inspect rotor for cracks or chips. See Figure 41.
Figure 41
Many non-current production engines used cast rotors or low carbon steel rotors. These should be checked
for cavitation or stress corrosion cracks. If rotor is cracked or chipped, it must be replaced with new. All
current production engines and all service parts use stainless steel rotors.
11. While supporting the pulley end of shaft, press the rotor on the shaft with the fins toward the beveled cover
surface. See Figure 42.
Figure 42
12. Use a 0.020 and 0.030 inch feeler gage to check for proper clearance. Press the rotor on the shaft until the
0.030 inch feeler gage is tight between the fins of the rotor and the housing, but the 0.020 inch gage is
NOT tight. See Figure 43.
Figure 43
13. Invert pump and install key on shaft. See Figure 44.
Figure 44
14. Tap key into position. See Figure 45.
Figure 45
15. Align keyway in pulley with the key on the shaft. See Figure 46.
Figure 46
16. Press the pulley on the shaft. See Figure 47.
Figure 47
Support at cover and back of shaft will eliminate the danger of distorting or damaging internal
componentry.
17. Install the pulley nut on the shaft. See Figure 48.
Figure 48
18. Torque pulley nut to 100 lb. ft. See Figure 49.
Figure 49
When torquing the pulley nut on the shaft, it is necessary to use a strap wrench to keep the pulley and
shaft from turning while tightening the pulley nut.
19. Place gasket sealer on the gasket seating surface of the housing. See Figure 50.
Figure 50
20. Place gasket on sealer making sure to line up the holes. See Figure 51.
Figure 51
21. Position housing cover assembly over housing. See Figure 52.
Figure 52
22. Coat housing cover capscrew threads with sealing compound and tighten to 13 lb. ft. See Figure 53.
Figure 53
FUEL SYSTEM BENCH PROCEDURES
GENERAL INFORMATION
It is recommended to install the injection pump drive hub on the injection pump prior to pump installation on
the engine, using alignment fixture J37078. This will insure proper positioning of the injection pump drive hub
on pump shaft, since there is no keyway in hub to assist in alignment.
RECOMMENDED TOOL
Alignment fixture J37078.
CLEANING
Degrease tapered surfaces of injection pump camshaft and drive hub with Tri-Ethane® 306 or Loctite 75559 or
equivalent degreasing agent.
Failure to degrease the drive components prior to assembly may result in drive hub slippage.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Place the injection pump into the fixture until camshaft engages drive hub and pump mounting surface is flush
with fixture bracket. See Figure 3 and Figure 4.
Figure 3
Figure 4
Do not install a key in driveshaft taper. Keying of hub to camshaft is not required. Therefore, no keyway is
provided in the hub.
1. Install a flatwasher and a drive hub nut on camshaft. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
Torque the drive hub nut to 200 lbs. ft. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
The drive hub scallop is now correctly positioned to clear the engine camshaft gear during installation of the
pump/hub assembly on the engine. DO NOT rotate the pump to cylinder number one port closure.
Remove the pump/hub assembly from fixture. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
Do not rotate pump during or after removal from fixture. Hub would not be properly aligned for engine
installation.
Lubricate injection pump O-ring with Lubrizol OS-50044 or equivalent. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
The O-rings on injection pump and cylinder block adapter are not interchangeable.
Install the injection pump to cylinder block adapter over drive hub. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
Lubricate cylinder block adapter O-ring with Lubrizol OS-50044 or equivalent.
Adapter plate should be flush with front of injection pump; adapter plate should not interfere with the control
rack cap. See Figure 10 and Figure 11.
Figure 10
Figure 11
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Camshaft Installation
1. Using clean engine oil lubricate camshaft journals and cams. See Figure 1.
Figure 1
2. Also lubricate camshaft bushings and thrust washer face in the cylinder block.
3. Carefully install the camshaft through the camshaft bushings to prevent damage to the bushing I.D. See
Figure 2.
Figure 2
Crankshaft and Main Bearing Installation
The upper bearings have an oil hole and an oil groove, and are also stamped on the back to designate
"upper."
2. Insert the upper half of the bearing in the block bore, making certain that the locating lug fits into the
notch provided. See Figure 3.
Figure 3
3. Apply a light coat of lubricating oil to the upper bearing shell surfaces and the crankshaft journals before
installing the crankshaft. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
The upper bearing has an oil hole and an oil groove, and is stamped on the back to designate "upper."
2. Insert the upper half of the bearing in the block bore, making certain that the locating lug fits into the
notch provided. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
3. Apply a light coat of lubricating oil to the upper bearing shell surfaces. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION
Main Bearing Thrust Washers
1. Before the crankshaft is assembled to the block, check the spacing width at the crankshaft center main
bearing journal. (Dimension is 2.618 to 2.615).
2. Use center main bearing thrust washers to obtain 0.004 to 0.011 end play. See Figure 7 and Figure 8 --
Table.
Figure 7
1. 2.618 to 2.615 crankshaft 3. (See table) center main bearing thrust washer
2. 2.425 to 2.423 cylinder block 4. 0.004 to 0.011 end clearance (thrust washer)
Figure 8 -- Table
3. The lower center main bearing thrust washer locating pin has a 0.375 inch diameter by 0.70 inch thick
head that engages a 0.203 inch radius cutout in the washer. See Figure 9 -- Center Main Bearing Thrust
Washer Locating Pin and Figure 10.
Figure 9 -- Center Main Bearing Thrust Washer Locating Pin
1. 0.075 to 0.065 3. .0375
2. .0570
Figure 10
1. 0.203R
Due to the considerable weight of the crankshaft, extreme care must be observed during
installation. No scratches, nicks, burrs or any other kinds of distress are allowed on the main
bearing and/or crankpin journals and fillets.
4. Use a suitable sling or hook to lower crankshaft into position. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
5. Lubricate thrust washers. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
6. Install the upper front and rear thrust washers at the center main bearing locations. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
Use standard thickness thrust washers initially.
7. Install the lower front and rear thrust washers on the center main bearing cap. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
8. Clean the bore in the bearing cap and the back of the lower bearing.
9. Insert the bearing in the cap bore, making certain that the location lug fits into the notch provided. See
Figure 15.
Figure 15
The lower bearing does not have a groove or an oil hole, and is stamped "Lower" on the back side.
10. Apply a light coat of lubricating oil to the lower bearing shell surface. See Figure 16.
Figure 16
11. Install bearing caps to their proper location. See Figure 17.
Figure 17
Do not mix bearing shells or caps. Bearing caps are numbered to match the corresponding numbers
stamped adjacent to their location on the cylinder block. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
12. Install the main bearing caps using a plastic faced hammer or equivalent. Tap bearing caps in place to
ensure proper seating on cylinder block saddles. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
Make certain bearing caps are installed in proper location.
Tapping main bearing caps may loosen bearing shell. Make certain bearing shell is in place before installing
capscrews.
Certain engines specify intermediate main bearing cap tie brackets positioned on main bearing caps 2–3
and 5–6.
Figure 20
1. Main bearing cap tie brackets
13. Install main bearing cap tie brackets by aligning mounting holes in brackets to specified main bearing caps.
See Figure 21.
Figure 21
14. Lubricate with clean engine oil capscrews threads, both sides of washer, and underside of capscrew head.
See Figure 22.
Figure 22
15. Align center main bearing cap thrust faces. Torque all main bearing capscrews to 190–210 lb. ft. See Figure
23.
Figure 23
Figure 24
Figure 25
Figure 26
If checking main bearing clearance with engine in upright position (such as in chassis), weight of crankshaft
must be removed from lower half of bearing being checked. This can be accomplished by jacking adjacent
areas of crankshaft or shimming one or two adjacent bearings. Snug adjacent caps until journal to be
checked seats against upper bearing. Do not fully torque screws. Capscrews on bearings being checked
should be torqued to specification after Plastigage strip has been positioned on bearing shell. Support
crankshaft at 1, 4 and 7 main journals, while checking 2, 3, 5 and 6 bearings. Support crankshaft at 3 and
5, for checking 1, 4 and 7 bearings.
3. After proper main bearing clearance is obtained;
A. Remove Plastigage
B. Lubricate bearings
C. Re-install caps
D. Lubricate capscrews and washers
E. Torque to specifications
Shaft must rotate freely when installation is completed.
There are two auxiliary drive shaft gear arrangements shown in the following section. As listed, "Thrust Button
Arrangement" or "Captured Thrust Washer Arrangement."
GENERAL INFORMATION
The thrust button and captured thrust washer auxiliary shaft instructions for installation differ slightly. The
captured thrust washer shaft has a separate drive gear and is held in place with a retaining nut. However, both
type shafts use the proven oil pump and air compressor drive assembly.
Changes for the captured thrust washer auxiliary shaft group consist of:
Auxiliary Drive Shaft
Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear
Auxiliary Drive Shaft Nut
Auxiliary Drive Shaft Captured Washer (held to block with metric capscrews)
Figure 27 -- Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear Arrangement (Thrust Button)
1. Oil feed tube 4. Air compressor drive coupling
2. Lock washer 5. Auxiliary shaft
3. Drive coupling nut
Figure 28 -- Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear Arrangement (Captured Thrust Washer)
1. Nut 6. Auxiliary Drive Shaft
2. Tabbed Lock Washer 7. Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear
3. Air Compressor Drive Coupling 8. Auxiliary Drive Shaft Nut
4. Oil Pump Drive Gear 9. Oil Feed Tube
5. Air Compressor Drive Coupling Key
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble air compressor drive coupling key in the keyway at threaded end of shaft (rounded edge out).
Refer to Figure 27 -- Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear Arrangement (Thrust Button).
2. Lubricate the shaft journals, auxiliary shaft bushings, and thrust washer face. And install auxiliary shaft in
block. See Figure 29.
Figure 29
Captured Thrust Washer Auxiliary Drive Shaft
3. Lubricate the shaft journals, auxiliary shaft bushings, and install the auxiliary shaft in rear of block. See
Figure 30 and Figure 31.
Figure 30
Figure 31
4. Auxiliary shaft installed through captured washer. See Figure 32.
Figure 32
5. Install the auxiliary drive shaft gear on shaft. See Figure 33.
Figure 33
Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear properly installed, exposing several threads on front of auxiliary shaft. See
Figure 34.
Figure 34
6. Install the auxiliary drive shaft nut on shaft. See Figure 35.
Figure 35
7. Torque the auxiliary drive shaft nut to 100 lbs. ft. See Figure 36.
Figure 36
8. After auxiliary shaft is assembled, obtain air compressor drive coupling, key, and oil pump drive gear. Refer
to Figure 27 -- Auxiliary Drive Shaft Gear Arrangement (Thrust Button). These parts will be assembled
before installing on the auxiliary shaft.
To maintain correct oil pressure, and proper meshing of oil pump gears, it is important that the proper gear
combinations be assembled when rebuilding engines. Improper gear combinations will result in immediate
gear failure, and possible engine damage.
9. Assemble air compressor drive coupling key to compressor coupling. Keep rounded edge of key up. (The
sharp edge is assembled into the keyway.)
Remove any raised burrs from the key.
Oil Pump Drive And Driven Gears Description
10. Current production engines have a 17-tooth drive gear and a 13-tooth driven gear. See Figure 37.
Figure 37
1. Oil Pump Driven Gear (13 teeth) 2. Oil Pump Drive Gear (17 teeth)
Good engine rebuild practice requires that when a new oil pump drive or driven gear is installed, the
mating gear should also be new. It is not desirable to mate a new gear with a used one.
11. Align the keyway in the oil pump drive gear with the key on the coupling, rear of the auxiliary drive shaft.
12. Press the oil pump gear on the coupling.
The flat side of the gear should be against the coupling face.
Figure 38
J33878 auxiliary shaft compressor drive coupling installer. See Figure 39.
Figure 39
1. J33878-2 3. Thrust bearing
2. J33878-1 4. Hex nut
This tool, J33878, is required to draw the coupling on the shaft thus eliminating thrust button and front cover
damage caused by impacting with mallet.
1. Thread J33878-2 onto auxiliary drive shaft and tighten. See Figure 40.
Figure 40
2. Install auxiliary drive shaft coupling over tool J33878-2. See Figure 41.
Figure 41
3. Install tool J33878-1 over tool J33878-2 and into the bore of auxiliary shaft coupling. See Figure 42.
Figure 42
4. Install thrust bearing and hex nut on tool J33878-2. See Figure 43.
Figure 43
5. Slowly turn nut clockwise to draw coupling over the threaded end of the auxiliary shaft. See Figure 44.
Figure 44
6. Remove hex nut, thrust bearing, and J33878-1, J33878-2 from auxiliary drive shaft.
7. Apply a dab of grease to the tabbed lock washer and position over the end of the shaft (inside the coupling)
allowing the grease to hold the lock washer in place.
The narrow tab of the lock washer is positioned in the groove in the shaft, pointed toward the front.
8. Assemble drive coupling nut to end of shaft and torque to 60 lbs. ft. (81 N•m). See Figure 45.
Figure 45
9. Bend one of the wider tabs on the lockwasher against a flat on the nut, using screwdriver through access
hole in compressor coupling. See Figure 46.
Figure 46
10. Install air compressor oil feed tube in end of auxiliary shaft. See Figure 47.
Figure 47
There are two timing gear layouts shown, see Figure 48 -- Long Drive Timing Gear Layout and Figure 49 --
Close Coupled Drive Timing Gear Layout. Long drive timing gear layout is shown in the following instructions.
Although the close coupled drive timing gear layout has a number of significant gear design changes, the
instructions are similar unless where noted "Close Coupled Drive."
Figure 48 -- Long Drive Timing Gear Layout
1. Injection Pump Driven Gear 4. Crankshaft Gear
2. Injection Pump Driving Gear 5. Auxiliary Shaft Driven Gear
3. Camshaft Gear
Figure 49 -- Close Coupled Drive Timing Gear Layout
1. Injection Pump Driven Gear 4. Crankshaft Gear
2. Injection Pump Driving Gear 5. Auxiliary Drive Shaft Driven Gear
3. Camshaft Gear 6. Auxiliary Drive Shaft Nut
1. Install locating key in camshaft flange. See Figure 50.
Figure 50
Remove any raised burrs from key if present.
2. Assemble camshaft gear to shaft, aligning keyway in gear with key in flange. See Figure 51.
Figure 51
3. The timing marks on gear must face outward. See Figure 52.
Figure 52
4. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear between the two alignment marks on the camshaft gear.
5. Install key in injection pump driving gear. See Figure 53.
Figure 53
Remove any burrs from key, if present.
6. Align key in injection pump gear with keyway slot in camshaft gear. See Figure 54.
Figure 54
Refer to Figure 48 -- Long Drive Timing Gear Layout and Figure 49 -- Close Coupled Drive Timing Gear
Layout for proper timing mark alignment.
7. Assemble injection pump driving gear to camshaft gear with capscrews and washers and torque to 40 lbs.
ft. (54 N•m). See Figure 55.
Figure 55
Injection Pump Drive Housing Installation
NOT REQUIRED WITH CLOSE COUPLED DRIVE
Check the shaft bore in the aluminum injection pump drive housing for wear. (See fits and limits chart).
Make certain oil passage is open.
Engines with the captured thrust washer arrangement require a larger injection pump drive housing (4.211–
4.212 inch).
Install aluminum drive housing at front of cylinder block. See Figure 56.
Figure 56
Install aluminum drive housing capscrews and torque to 35 lbs. ft. (48 N•m). See Figure 57.
Figure 57
NOT REQUIRED WITH CLOSE COUPLED DRIVE
1. Check drive shaft for condition of flange, teeth, keyway slot and threads.
2. Install key in shaft and lubricate drive shaft with clean engine oil. See Figure 58.
Figure 58
3. Insert drive shaft through back of drive housing. See Figure 59.
Figure 59
Figure 60 -- Long Drive
1. Injection pump drive shaft nut 4. Injection pump drive shaft
2. Injection pump driven gear assembly 5. Injection pump drive housing
3. Injection pump drive shaft key
Figure 61 -- Close Coupled Drive
1. Injection pump to cylinder block adapter 5. Injection pump driven gear capscrews
2. Washer 6. Injection pump drive hub nut
3. Cylinder block 7. Injection pump hub
4. Injection pump driven gear 8. Seal
Refer to the "fixed timing section" for additional information.
1. Inspect injection pump driven gear for unusual wear or broken teeth.
Always Use Genuine Mack Replacement Parts
2. Assemble injection pump driven gear to hub using four capscrews. See Figure 62.
Figure 62
Position capscrews in the center of slotted holes. See Figure 63.
Figure 63
3. Assemble driven gear assembly to shaft aligning the keyway in the hub with the key in the shaft. See
Figure 60 -- Long Drive.
4. Install shaft nut and torque to 160 lbs. ft. (217 N•m). See Figure 64.
Figure 64
The alignment of the single timing mark on the driven gear must be between the two timing marks on the
driving gear. Similar, to the camshaft and crankshaft gear timing mark(s) relationship. See Figure 65.
Figure 65
5. To check injection pump drive shaft end play place a dial indicator at front end of injection pump drive
shaft and move shaft fore and aft. See "Fits and Limits Chart" for specifications.
Refer to "fits and limits chart," to make certain all these checks are within specifications.
1. With engine in upright position, check backlash using dial indicator between crankshaft gear to
camshaft/injection pump driving gear. See Figure 66.
Figure 66
2. Check backlash between camshaft gear to auxiliary drive shaft. See Figure 67.
Figure 67
3. And check backlash between injection pump driving to driven gears. See Figure 68.
Figure 68
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation — Six Cylinder Engines with Open Flywheel
Housings and Separate Oil Seal Housing
A teflon lip-type seal is used with the dry clutch and open flywheel housing. This arrangement includes a
crankshaft which does not have the oil slinger on the crankshaft rear flange and an oil seal housing which has a
deeper seal counterbore. The deeper counterbore permits the seal to be installed at two different depths, one
for production (or a new installation), and one for service (to be used when wear occurs at the initial locations).
J26866 — Crankshaft rear seal housing aligner tool.
J21384-02 — Crankshaft rear seal installer assembly.
J26948 — Depth Gauge.
Individual parts in seal installer assembly consist of:
J21384-9 — Adapter plate
J21384-10 — Guide pins (3)
J21384-8 — Installer plate 5/8-11 x 2 bolt hardened flat washer
INSPECTION
Before installing the rear oil seal, make certain that the following checks are made:
Examine the crankshaft flange for any cracks, surface damage or the presence of foreign particles that could
ruin the sealing capabilities of the new seal that would lead to oil leakage. See Figure 69.
Figure 69
Oil pan mounting face to cylinder block must be flush within ± 0.010. See Figure 70.
Figure 70
Install crankshaft rear seal housing aligner tool, J26866. To check the oil seal housing bore, it must be
concentric with the crankshaft flange O.D. with a 0.007 inch T.I.R. with the engine in running position. If the
pins of the tool do not fit between the crankshaft and seal housing, bore is not concentric to the crankshaft. The
housing capscrews must be loosened and realigned so the pins may enter. See Figure 71.
Although this tool works well, it should be noted that it is still necessary to use a suitable dial indicator to
indicate the seal housing, to make certain that specifications are met.
Figure 71
The crankshaft rear seal housing aligner tool has (2) application sizes. The larger size pins are used on
crankshafts without a wear ring. The smaller size pins which are located on the opposite side are for the
crankshafts that have a wear ring.
Install seal using crankshaft rear seal installer assembly. See Figure 72 -- Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer
Assembly.
Figure 72 -- Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer Assembly
1. Installer Plate 4. Bolt 5/8-11 x 2
2. Adapter Plate 5. Hardened Washer
3. Guide Pin (3 required)
If Teflon seals are used, they must be installed dry. Also, extra care must be taken at assembly so as not to
damage the seal.
If other than Teflon seal is used, check manufacturer's recommendations of lubricating seal before installation.
Figure 73
1. Cylinder Block 3. Oil Seal
2. Oil Seal Housing 4. Crankshaft
CRANKSHAFT WEAR RING
When service oil seals need to be replaced and the crankshaft flange is worn, the crankshaft can be salvaged by
installing a crankshaft wear ring. An oil seal with a larger inside diameter is used with this wear ring.
On some wear rings the direction of the arrow on the inside diameter may be difficult to determine. In this case,
proper installation can be ensured by the chamfers on the wear ring diameters. Install the wear ring with the
chamfer on the inside diameter toward the engine. The chamfer on the wear ring outside diameter must face
toward the transmission.
The crankshaft wear ring is a shrink fit on the crankshaft flange. Expand the wear ring by heating in oil to 400°
F. Use Wear Ring Installer Tool J21377-01 to install the ring 0.165/0.155 in. beyond the end of the crankshaft.
Use care to avoid damaging the wear ring during and after installation.
After the wear ring has cooled, install crankshaft oil seal to a depth of 0.198/0.188 in. See Figure 74.
Figure 74
1. Cylinder Block 4. Wear Ring
2. Oil Seal Housing 5. Crankshaft
3. Oil Seal
The installation procedure for production and service seal installation is as follows:
Attach the adapter plate to the rear of the crankshaft with the three guide pins. See Figure 75.
Figure 75
1. Adapter Plate 2. Guide Pins (3 required)
Position the crankshaft rear seal installation sleeve 513GC28 which is used along with the installer assembly.
The sleeve is required for alignment and protection of the lip-type seal against the crankshaft rear flange
chamfer. See Figure 76.
Figure 76
Teflon seal comes with a disposable plastic sleeve for installation.
The crankshaft rear seal installation sleeve in position, the outer edge of the sleeve is flush with the adapter
plate. See Figure 77.
Figure 77
Position seal over adapter plate. See Figure 78. If Teflon seals are used, they must be installed dry.
Figure 78
Attach the installer plate to the rear of the crankshaft with a 5/8-11 x 2 bolt with the hardened flat washer
through the installer plate and thread it into the adapter plate. To install a seal to the desired depth, position the
installer plate so the guide pin hole stamped with the desired installation depth goes over one of the three guide
pins. See Figure 79.
Figure 79
Tighten the bolt until a positive stop is reached at which time the seal will be positioned to the proper depth.
See Figure 80.
Figure 80
Since an incorrectly installed seal could be a major leak area, extreme care must be taken during installation to
prevent damage to the seal or wear ring, if so equipped.
To ensure proper installation seal depth for either production or service application, position depth gauge
J26948 as shown in Figure 81.
Figure 81
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation — Six Cylinder Engines with the Dynamax® (Wet)
Clutch
A double-lip teflon seal is in use with the Dynamax® (Wet) Clutch.
Before installing the rear oil seal, make certain that the following checks are made:
Special service tool J35529 is available to service the wet clutch and install the wear ring and seal as an
assembly.
On flywheel housings that have integral seal bore, run out between seal bore and crankshaft flange must not
exceed .004 inch.
Check over the crankshaft flange for any cracks, surface damage of the presence of foreign particles that could
ruin the sealing capabilities of the new seal, that would lead to oil leakage.
Use crankshaft rear seal installer assembly to install seal.
OIL SEAL
A double-lip type seal is the only seal recommended for use in six cylinder engines with (wet) clutch.
Teflon seals must be installed dry. Also, extra care must be taken at assembly so as not to damage the seal.
Ensure black color seal element located engine side and yellow color seal element located transmission side.
To prevent damage to seal lip DO NOT exceed 1-1/2 hours operation if assembly is run on engine dynamometer
without benefit of Dynamax® fluid cooling.
OIL SEAL INSTALLATION (WET) CLUTCH
To install an oil seal on a new crankshaft, install the seal to the initial production depth of .160/.150. Should the
seal need replacement and the flange is worn, install oil seal to the service depth .198/.188. See Figure 82.
Figure 82
1. Flywheel Housing 3. Oil Seal
2. Crankshaft
To prevent damage to seal lip DO NOT exceed 1-1/2 hours operation if assembly is run on engine dynamometer
without benefit of Dynamax® fluid cooling.
If crankshaft rear flange oil seal surface is worn, a wear ring and oversize seal are available as a service
replacement. See Figure 83.
Figure 83
1. Flywheel Housing 3. Oil Seal
2. Crankshaft 4. Wear Ring
Refer to crankshaft wear ring section.
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation — Six Cylinder Engines with Closed Flywheel
Housings (No Separate Oil Seal Housings)
A viton lip-type seal is used with closed flywheel housings. This arrangement includes a crankshaft without an oil
slinger and a flywheel housing where the oil seal bore is an integral part of the housing.
Refer to the open flywheel housing section for inspection, installation and tool information.
INSTALLATION
There is only one installation depth .160/.150 inch.
Checking for correct seal installation depth with the depth gauge on a closed flywheel housing, dry clutch
application. See Figure 84.
Figure 84
For servicing a wear ring, refer to CRANKSHAFT WEAR RING.
(Bracketed Type)
Figure 85 -- Flywheel and Flywheel Housing
Inspect flywheel housing machined surfaces, capscrews, holes, and dowel locations for cracks or wear. Replace
if cracks are evident.
At this time, it is good shop practice to inspect the cylinder block machined surfaces, dowel pins, and dowel pin
hole locations for cracks or wear.
PT5035 Universal Flywheel Housing Dial Indicator Tool.
The crankshaft rear seal must be removed to apply the universal flywheel housing dial indicator tool PT5035,
with adapters PT5035-001, or equivalent. Position the dial indicator tool on the crankshaft flange and rotate the
tool in a complete circle on the (I.D.) of the flywheel housing. See Figure 86.
Figure 86
Force crank forward to eliminate end play.
If the total indicator runout exceeds 0.008 T.I.R., loosen housing capscrews and realign housing by tapping with
a large plastic faced hammer. If correct runout cannot be obtained with this method, use of oversize reamed
holes and oversize dowel pins is recommended.
DESCRIPTION
Dowels maintain the alignment of the flywheel housing on the engine. This is necessary to ensure that the
transmission is centered with respect to the engine's flywheel and crankshaft.
STANDARD FEATURES
The block is provided with (2) 0.610 inch semi-finished dowel pin holes. The housing dowel pin hole is 0.6255 to
0.6265. The standard size dowel pin is 0.623 to 0.624. Refer to Figure 87 for location of the dowel pin holes.
Figure 87
J24600, Flywheel Housing to Cylinder Block Drill and Ream Fixture Kit
J23964-A, Reamer Kit
The following dowel pin application chart was established to ensure that new dowel holes are drilled and reamed
accurately for standard or over-sized dowels in the flywheel housing.
Figure 88 -- Dowel Pin Application Chart
The fit of the dowel pin in the cylinder block is 0.001 to 0.003 inch tight.
INSTALLATION
Attach fixture, J24600-4 to the crankshaft flange. To align fixture with existing dowel holes insert locating
(tapered) plug, J24600-15. Refer to Figure 89.
Figure 89
Remove the locating plug and substituting drill and ream bushings. New dowel holes are drilled and reamed
accurately for standard or over-sized dowels in the flywheel housing. Refer to Dowel Pin Application Chart.
Install dowel pins in holes, making ends of pins flush with counterbore. Torque all capscrews to 170 lb. ft. (231
N•m). See Figure 90.
Figure 90
Recheck radial face runout of housing to ensure runout of housing has not moved.
Also check the transmission mounting surface runout. Position the dial indicator tool on the crankshaft flange,
and rotate the tool in a complete circle on the transmission axial mounting surface. See Figure 91.
Figure 91
If the total indicator runout exceeds 0.010 T.I.R., check to make certain that the flywheel housing surfaces are
parallel and both the block and flywheel housing surfaces are flat.
Torque Wrench
Dial Indicator Bracket (fabricated)
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE:
1. Assemble the adjustable spacers, the inner piece is made of externally threaded steel tubing, and the outer
piece of internally threaded steel tubing. See Figure 92.
Figure 92
2. Installing the spacers between the cylinder block and flywheel housing. See Figure 93.
Figure 93
3. Apply lubrication (Engine Oil) to the threads of the capscrews. See Figure 94 .
Figure 94
4. Assemble capscrews and washers. Leave the capscrews loose at this time. See Figure 95.
Figure 95
5. The dial indicator bracket can be fabricated from 1/4 inch angle iron, 2 inch wide x 11-1/2 long. Drill two
holes 5-3/8 inch from center to center by 1/2 inch in circumference. See Figure 96.
Figure 96
6. Position the dial indicator bracket to the two upper flywheel housing mounting holes. See Figure 97.
Figure 97
7. Attach the dial indicator bracket to the flywheel housing with two capscrews. Snug capscrews until bracket
is secure. See Figure 98.
Figure 98
8. Position the J7872 magnetic base dial indicator to the dial indicator bracket. Zero the dial indicator in the
approximate center of its working range. See Figure 99.
Figure 99
9. Tighten the two adjustable spacers finger tight. See Figure 100.
Figure 100
10. With suitable pliers, lock the internal part of the spacer and apply torque to the external part of the spacer
to a 0.002 inch (0.015 mm) preload deflection is shown on the dial indicator. See Figure 101.
Figure 101
Do not reset dial indicator.
11. Repeat this preload procedure on the other adjustable spacer until a preload of 0.004 inch (0.102 mm)
total indicator reading shows on the dial indicator. See Figure 102.
Figure 102
12. Torque the two spacer mounting capscrews to 55 lb. ft. (75 N•m) and check the dial indicator. Indicator
should read 0 ± 0.001 inch (0.025 mm). See Figure 103.
Figure 103
Correct indicator reading is 0 ± 0.001 inch (0.025 mm). If correct reading is not obtained, repeat
procedure.
Flywheel Installation
Refer to the Crankshaft, Flywheel and Flywheel Housing Procedures section for related information and
procedures.
Figure 104
Compress piston rings with suitable tool or use tapered compressor ring sleeve, as shown in Figure 105 and
Figure 106 .
Figure 105
Figure 106
Oil I.D. of sleeve before positioning over cylinder liner. Sleeve for 4-7/8 inch bore is J23442.
Install the upper (or rod) connecting rod bearing. See Figure 107 .
Figure 107
If clearance is excessive, check for dirt, burrs, or improper fit at the mating surface between the rod and cap.
Refer to Figure 107 .
Install the piston and rod assembly in the proper bore with the crankpin at the bottom dead center. The arrow
on the crown of the piston and the word "Front" forged in the rod must be facing front of engine. See Figure
108 .
Figure 108
Before pressing piston into liner, turn piston approximately 15 degrees to clear piston cooling nozzles. See
Figure 109 .
Figure 109
Use extreme care when installing the piston and rod assembly so as not to bend the piston cooling tube or
damage the connecting rod bearing.
Using a firm steady push, install piston assemblies in their bores. See Figure 110 .
Figure 110
Don't force the piston. This indicates an incorrectly aligned ring. Remove, correct and reinstall.
Guide the large end of the rod into position on the crankpin with tool J21480. See Figure 111 .
Figure 111
The upper (or rod) connecting rod bearings correctly installed. See Figure 112 .
Figure 112
Figure 113
Figure 114
After checking clearance, remove Plastigage.
A. If clearance is not within specifications, correct as required. Check to make certain that correct size
bearings are used.
B. If clearance is less than specified, also check for possibility of dirt, chips, or burrs behind the bearing which
would prevent the bearing from seating properly.
Apply a clean light coat of lubricating oil to the crankpin journal, bearings, and capscrews. See Figure 115 and
Figure 116 .
Figure 115
Figure 116
Reposition caps (with bearing) and connecting rod on the crankshaft journals, and hand snug capscrews. See
Figure 117 .
Figure 117
Tap the rod and cap lightly, with a soft faced hammer, first to one side and then to the other to center
connecting rod with cap. See Figure 118 .
Figure 118
Insert a pair of 0.007 inch thickness gauges at the rod and cap parting area, and top rod towards strip to align
cap to rod. See Figure 119 .
Figure 119
Torque capscrews to 150 lbs. ft. See Figure 120 .
Figure 120
The sides of the cap and rod halves must be flush.
If cap and rod half are not properly aligned, bearing and/or rod damage may result.
Check the rod side clearance by installing a 0.007 inch thickness gauge between the rod and side of the journal,
at the parting line area. See Figure 121 .
Figure 121
The clearance must be within specifications shown in "fits and limits chart." If proper clearance is not obtained,
recheck for proper cap and rod alignment.
If extension of all six pistons exceeds specifications, check the connecting rod length (piston pin bore to
crankpin bore). If incorrect, rebush rod and remachine to correct length.
If piston extension still exceeds specifications, make certain that correct pistons have been installed.
If rod and piston are correct, the top deck of the cylinder block may have been excessively machined. Check the
cylinder block deck height, using a PT-5075A.
If cylinder deck height is less than shown in Figure 123 -- Main Bearing Bore to Cylinder Deck Dimension ,
replace block.
Figure 123 -- Main Bearing Bore to Cylinder Deck Dimension
There are two timing gear covers shown, stamped steel timing gear cover. See Figure 124 -- Stamped Steel
Timing Gear Cover and the die cast aluminum timing gear cover. See Figure 125 -- Die Cast Aluminum Timing
Gear Cover.
Figure 124 -- Stamped Steel Timing Gear Cover
Figure 125 -- Die Cast Aluminum Timing Gear Cover
Thoroughly clean timing gear cover mounting area on engine block of all gasket material. See Figure 126.
Figure 126
Remove all gasket material from timing gear cover. See Figure 127.
Figure 127
Inspect timing gear cover for dents, cracks, condition of threaded holes, and straightness of flanges. See Figure
128.
Figure 128
The die cast aluminum cover has one thrust button — camshaft.
INSTALLATION
Install the adjustable camshaft and auxiliary shaft thrust buttons from the inside of the timing cover, position
the washers and jam nuts on the outside of the cover, and adjust the thrust buttons to their retracted position.
See Figure 129.
Figure 129
Figure 130
Position a new timing cover gasket over the guide studs. See Figure 131.
Figure 131
Figure 132
Position the timing gear cover on the engine. See Figure 133.
Figure 133
Install several timing gear cover screws, finger tight. And using two fabricated guides or a straightedge align the
timing gear cover with the oil pan rail. See Figure 134.
Figure 134
Install patch lock capscrews, finger tight. See Figure 135.
Figure 135
Figure 136
Figure 137
After the stamped steel timing gear cover has been aligned, remove the guide studs. Install the remaining
capscrews and torque to 30 ft. lbs. See Figure 138 and Figure 139.
Figure 138
Figure 139
Figure 140
Figure 141
Using a sliding motion, remove tool from cover in power steering bore. See Figure 142.
Figure 142
After the die cast timing gear cover has been aligned, install the remaining patch lock capscrews and torque to
30 ft. lbs.
Figure 143
To install the flanged type seal, use tool J37079. See Figure 144 and Figure 145.
Figure 144
Figure 145
Align flange mounting holes to timing cover mounting holes, and install over crankshaft. See Figure 145.
Install the timing cover seal capscrews. See Figure 146.
Figure 146
Torque timing cover seal capscrews to 17 lbs. ft. See Figure 147.
Figure 147
1. Lip-type seal
Figure 149
1. Lip-Type Seal 3. Vibration Damper Hub
2. Crankshaft Gear
Stamped Steel Timing Gear Cover Seal Installation
To install the lip-type seal (4.00 inch nominal O.D.) use tool J24230-A with driver handle J8092. See Figure 150
and Figure 151.
Figure 150
Figure 151
Drive the timing gear cover seal into the cover until it bottoms. See Figure 152 and Figure 153.
Figure 152
Figure 153
Whenever the timing gear cover is removed and installed, always adjust the timing gear cover buttons.
1. Back out thrust button as an assembly (adjusting button and outer nut).
2. Holding outer nut in the backed out position, run inner adjusting button down until fully seated against
camshaft thrust face.
3. Hold adjusting button run outer nut until it bottoms on cover.
4. Back out thrust button assembly evenly as a assembly until enough clearance can be obtained to insert
a .010 inch thickness gauge between outer nut and cover.
5. Hold adjusting button and run outer nut until it bottoms on cover. See Figure 154 and Figure 155.
Figure 154
Figure 155
The die cast aluminum cover has only one thrust button — camshaft. See Figure 156.
Figure 156
Vibration Damper, Hub and Pulley
Figure 157 -- Vibration Damper, Hub and Pulley Arrangement
INSPECTION
Inspect the vibration damper hub for scoring, condition of flange, threaded holes, and key-way.
Hubs showing seal wear must be replaced or repaired with a service sleeve by following the instructions
packaged with the sleeve.
HUB INSTALLATION
Lubricate timing cover seal. See Figure 158.
Figure 158
Insert the vibration damper hub key in keyway of crankshaft. See Figure 159.
Figure 159
Heat the hub to approximately 250°F prior to installation.
Using heat resistance gloves, align the keyway in the hub with the shaft and install hub to crankshaft. See
Figure 160 and Figure 161.
Figure 160
Figure 161
Using a quick accurate motion, install hub until it bottoms.
More of hub is exposed when die cast timing cover is used. See Figure 162.
Figure 162
Install the hub washer. See Figure 163.
Figure 163
Install hub retaining screw. See Figure 164.
Figure 164
Torque hub retaining screw to 330 lbs. ft. See Figure 165.
Figure 165
INSPECTION
Inspect the fan drive pulley vee for high polish indicating belt misalignment or bent sheaves.
Inspect mounting surface and holes. See Figure 166.
Figure 166
INSTALLATION
Position the fan drive pulley over the hub washer and in alignment with mounting holes in hub. See Figure 167.
Figure 167
Check for signs of leakage. Any type of leakage is not acceptable and the damper must be replaced.
Inspect for dents or nicks on damper housing. Any type of external damage, the damper must be replaced. See
Figure 168.
Figure 168
Check relationship of the rolled lip on the outer edge of the damper. There should be approximately 1/8 inch
ridge. If the back is flush with the outer edge, the damper has internal damage and should be replaced. See
Figure 168.
Shake damper. If rattle is heard, the damper must be replaced.
Check for a bulged damper housing. A check of the axial thickness measuring across from the front face to the
rear face of the damper is made at (4) places on the damper displaced 90° apart. See Figure 169 and Figure
170. Before checking, paint should be removed with emery cloth at the (4) places of measurement. Total
variation in thickness cannot exceed .010 inch; if the variation is greater the damper must be replaced.
Figure 169
Figure 170
In the chassis, there are two ways to diagnose if the vibration damper is not functioning.
1. Operate the vehicle for at least 30 minutes, turn off engine. The surface temperature of the damper should
be greater than the engine compartment temperature or ambient air temperature. The surface of the
damper in a functioning damper is approximately 180°F.
2. An engine which "throws" accessory drive belts from the crankshaft pulley is suspect as a failed damper.
It is recommended, if the systems indicate the vibration damper is not functioning, remove, and follow the
inspection procedure for a complete evaluation of the vibration damper.
The device is attached to the vibration damper with the vibration damper mounting screws on all models except
MC/MR. On MC/MR models the device mounts to the vibration damper fan drive pulley with the mounting
screws.
The vibration damper and fan drive pulley mounting holes are not equally spaced around the four inch bolt
circle. Therefore, the rotating device can only be mounted at the two mounting holes that are exactly 180° apart
on the bolt circle. Refer to Figure 172.
The two mounting holes can be verified by using a straightedge placed across the center of both holes. The
holes will intersect at or within a few degrees of the 30° BTDC mark on the damper. See Figure 172.
Figure 172
The rotating device must seat squarely on the damper and/or pulley and install all retaining screws by hand, to
insure proper alignment of all mounting holes. (Longer bolts are required.) See Figure 173.
Figure 173
Torque retaining screws to 55 ft. lbs. See Figure 174.
Figure 174
Timing Indicator
GENERAL INFORMATION
Design of the E6-4VH camshaft requires valve lash adjustment to be at 30°after TDC (top dead center).
Therefore, the dual timing indicator has one pointer marked "Pump" providing TDC damper relationship for
injection pump timing. The second pointer marked "Valve" provides the 30°after TDC damper relationship for
valve lash adjustment.
INSTALLATION
Install timing indicator capscrews. See Figure 175.
Figure 175
Torque capscrews to 20 lbs. ft. See Figure 176.
Figure 176
Figure 178
MH chassis require a gasket as shown in Figure 177; all other chassis need an O-ring.
Install power steering pump capscrews. See Figure 179.
Figure 179
Torque the power steering pump capscrews to 30 lbs. ft. See Figure 180.
Figure 180
Oil Pump
Determine that the oil pump is in satisfactory condition as described in the oil pump rebuild section.
INSPECTION (EXTERNAL)
Inspect oil pump driving shaft drive gear for burrs, nicks, or cracks. See Figure 181.
Figure 181
Inspect oil pump shaft locknut. See Figure 182.
Figure 182
INSTALLATION
Assemble oil pump and oil pump inlet tube assembly to cylinder block. See Figure 183.
Figure 183
Check oil pump drive gear to oil pump driven gear backlash (0.0072–0.0138) using a thickness gauge. See
Figure 184.
Figure 184
Install oil pump capscrews and torque to 40 lbs. ft. See Figure 185.
Figure 185
Installing several dowels into pan rail will insure proper alignment of oil pan gasket. See Figure 186.
Figure 186
Install a new oil pan gasket. See Figure 187 and Figure 188.
Figure 187
Figure 188
Assemble oil pan to engine. See Figure 189.
Figure 189
Assemble oil pan mounting capscrews. See Figure 190.
Figure 190
Remove dowels (if used) from pan rail. See Figure 191.
Figure 191
Torque oil pan mounting capscrews to 30 lbs. ft. See Figure 192.
Figure 192
Torque oil pan drain plug to 55 lbs. ft. See Figure 193.
Figure 193
Assemble the correct type of cylinder head gasket to engine. The "Maxidyne" type is used with the machined lip
type liner.
All gaskets are pre-coated and do not require any type of sealing compound.
Assemble gasket in cylinder block locating gasket over guide pins. Make certain that surface of gasket marked
"Top" is on the top side. With the "Maxidyne" type gasket, carefully fit a new fire ring over the circular machined
lip on each cylinder linear flange. See Figure 194.
Figure 194
When installing cylinder head, do not disturb position of fire rings.
Position the cylinder heads (completely assembled) over the cylinder block, locating the guide holes in the head
over the pins in the cylinder block. See Figure 194.
Check condition of capscrews. Lubricate capscrew threads. See Figure 195.
Figure 195
Lubricate underside of capscrews and washer. See Figure 196.
Figure 196
Assemble all capscrews in cylinder head, finger snug. See Figure 197.
Figure 197
There are two cylinder head capscrew dimensions: (6) 6.70" long and (14) 7.79" long.
The difference in cylinder head capscrews is more than one inch. The variation in length should eliminate any
confusion of proper capscrew location. See Figure 198. Refer to Figure 200 for capscrew location.
Figure 198
Using a straight edge on the exhaust mounting surfaces, align both heads within 0.005 inches. See Figure 199.
Figure 199
After cylinder heads are aligned, torque cylinder head capscrews in the recommended sequence and procedure.
See Figure 200.
Figure 200
*6.70" long capscrews cylinder head tightening sequence.
Figure 201
Push rods must be reinstalled in same locations as removed.
The exhaust valve push rod used with the Mack Dynatard® engine brake differs from the inlet push rod in that
it has two spherical ends and is of heavier construction. Standard push rods have one spherical and one socket
end.
Figure 202
1. Rocker Arm 4. Valve Stem
2. Valve Yoke 5. Yoke Guide Pin
3. Adjusting Screw
Lubricate yoke pins and install yokes.
Valve yokes must be reinstalled in same locations as removed.
Valve rocker arm shaft assemblies must be reinstalled in same locations as removed.
Make certain that all components of the rocker arm and bracket assembly are in satisfactory condition.
Install valve rocker arm shaft assembly to cylinder head. Make certain that bracket mounting surfaces are flat
on head. See Figure 203.
Figure 203
Make certain that hydraulic lash adjusters (or adjusting screws) are retracted upward in the rocker arms. If
these parts extend below the rocker arm to a great extent, the push rods could be bent when tightening the
rocker arm assembly brackets.
After all screws have been assembled in the valve rocker arm brackets, torque to 55 lb. ft.
Install one end of cover gasket into cylinder cover groove (inboard side) approximately 1/4 inch from end of
groove. See Figure 204.
Figure 204
Complete installation of cover gasket into groove and overlap at starting point (outboard side) approximately
1/4 inch from end of groove. See Figure 205.
Figure 205
Gaskets are reusable. Sealing compounds are not necessary.
Check gasket contact surfaces are dry and free from dust, then assemble covers to engine. Lubricate cylinder
head capscrews. See Figure 206.
Figure 206
Torque cylinder head cover capscrews to 15 lb. ft. See Figure 207.
Figure 207
Figure 208
2. Check valve lifter covers for flatness and hole elongation. See Figure 209.
Figure 209
INSTALLATION
1. Apply a constant bead of silastic on the mounting surface. See Figure 210.
Figure 210
2. Position valve lifter cover to cylinder block corresponding holes. See Figure 211.
Figure 211
3. Install and torque valve lifter cover capscrews to 23 lb. ft. See Figure 212.
Figure 212
NOT APPLICABLE TO CLOSE COUPLED DRIVE
Figure 214 -- Installing Injection Pump
The O.D. of the celeron coupling has a scribe mark which is in-line with the notched out tooth. See Figure 215.
Figure 215
For Bosch close coupled drive injection pump installation, refer to the "fixed timing section."
a. Elbow fitting — located on the front of front cylinder head.
b. Crossover connector — located between and connects to cylinder head.
c. Plug, Allen head — located on the rear of rear cylinder head.
Figure 216 -- Connection Locations
Air Compressor
INSPECTION
Check air compressor mounting flange surface for wear.
INSTALLATION
Clean and dry the air compressor mounting flange and the cylinder block mounting surface.
Install the air compressor to cylinder block gasket on the air compressor mounting flange. See Figure 217.
Figure 217
Make certain that the air compressor oil feed tube is in place at the end of the auxiliary drive shaft. See Figure
218.
Figure 218
Install two guide pins in mounting holes on cylinder block.
Assemble air compressor. See Figure 219.
Figure 219
If compressor does not readily slip into position, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to line up teeth on auxiliary
shaft coupling and grooves in coupling on air compressor.
Assemble capscrew and flat washer in lower hole.
Remove guide pins, one at a time. Assemble flat washer and capscrew to upper two holes.
Torque capscrews to 70 lbs. ft. See Figure 220.
Figure 220
Recheck auxiliary shaft float after air compressor has been installed. Refer to section auxiliary shaft thrust
button adjustment.
Assemble water inlet and water outlet lines to air compressor. See Figure 221 and Figure 222.
Figure 221
Figure 222
Exhaust Manifold
INSPECTION
Check exhaust manifold for restrictions, cracks, or excessive wear.
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble exhaust manifold mounting studs into cylinder head, hand tighten snug.
2. Install new exhaust manifold gaskets. See Figure 223.
Figure 223
3. Position flat washer and nut locking tab over studs. See Figure 224.
Figure 224
4. Assemble nuts to studs. See Figure 225.
Figure 225
Exhaust manifold nuts are to be installed dry (unlubricated).
5. Torque nuts to 60 lbs. ft. See Figure 226.
Figure 226
6. After nuts are torqued, bend locking tab to secure nut. One-half of tab is bent against flat on nut and the
other half is bent against side of manifold flange.
Inlet Manifold
INSPECTION
Check inlet manifold to make certain flanges are flat and there are no cracks or foreign material in manifold.
INSTALLATION
Assemble turbocharger oil feed line to oil filter adapter before assembling inlet manifold.
1. Install new inlet manifold gaskets (inlet and water manifold gaskets are combined). See Figure 227.
Figure 227
2. Position lockwasher on capscrew, and lubricate threads of capscrew. See Figure 228.
Figure 228
3. Torque capscrews to 48 lbs. ft. ± 10%. See Figure 229.
Figure 229
4. Tighten all hose clamps. See Figure 230.
Figure 230
Water Manifold
INSPECTION
Check the water manifolds for restrictions, cracks and flange wear.
INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate capscrews and assemble rear water manifold to engine and tighten all capscrews.
Inlet and water manifold gaskets are combined.
2. Assemble hose and clamps at center section of front inlet manifold, and assemble front inlet manifold to
engine. See Figure 231.
Figure 231
3. Lubricate threads of capscrew. See Figure 232.
Figure 232
4. Torque all water manifold capscrews to 23 lbs. ft. See Figure 233.
Figure 233
5. Tighten all hose clamps. See Figure 234.
Figure 234
Water Pump Installation
Determine that the water pump is in satisfactory condition as described in the Water Pump Rebuild Section.
1. Assemble water pump to cylinder block using new gaskets. See Figure 235 and Figure 236.
Figure 235
Figure 236
2. Lubricate and install capscrews and lockwashers. See Figure 237 and Figure 238.
Figure 237
Figure 238
3. Torque the water pump capscrews to 55 lbs. ft. See Figure 239.
Figure 239
4. Connect the water supply line to air compressor. See Figure 240.
Figure 240
Thermostat
Figure 241 -- Thermostat Assembly
2. Remove any surface nicks, burrs, sharp edges and tool marks from the thermostat sleeve and housing bore
area using a crocus cloth.
3. Check to see that replacement seals are free from any contaminants such as chips, grit, dust, or any other
debris that would prevent the seal from properly seating in the thermostat housing.
4. Press the seal into the housing bore with smooth uniform pressure applied by means of a press fitting tool.
Press fitting tools for the six and eight cylinders can be obtained from the Kent-Moore tool company.
5. The Kent-Moore tools or tools of equivalent dimensions and strength will do the job.
A complete set of installation tools would consist of a six cylinder thermostat seal installer (J26637-A), an
eight cylinder thermostat seal installer (J26638-A), and a driver handle (J8092). See Figure 242.
Figure 242
6. Wherever possible, an arbor press should be used to apply assembly pressure. Do not apply hammer blows
or uneven pressure directly to seal surfaces. Precautions should be taken against cocking of seal
throughout the installation operation. Be sure seal in final position is not cocked.
Because engine operating temperature has a direct bearing on the engine's performance, economy and
durability, operation without a thermostat is never recommended.
Figure 243
Failure to use proper gasket could result in insufficient oil pressure, and cause engine damage.
2. Assemble relief valve housing to cylinder block using lockwashers and capscrews. Snug capscrews. See
Figure 244.
Figure 244
Oil Cooler Installation
The presence of engine oil in the coolant may indicate loosened, worn, or damaged parts within the oil cooler, or
internal engine problems.Determine that oil cooler is in satisfactory condition as described in Lubrication System
Bench Procedures section.
1. Assemble capscrews through lube oil fitting into oil filter adaptor, and into oil pressure relief valve housing.
Snug capscrews. See Figure 245.
Figure 245
2. Assemble the oil cooler to the oil filter lube oil fitting, using a new O-ring gasket. Snug capscrews. See
Figure 246.
Figure 246
3. Assemble thermostat by-pass tube, hoses, and clamps, at the oil cooler water inlet fitting. See Figure 247.
Figure 247
4. Assemble oil cooler to engine using new gasket between cooler inlet fitting and water pump. Snug
capscrews. See Figure 248.
Figure 248
5. Install new O-ring in the oil cooler and oil filter lube oil fitting. See Figure 249.
Figure 249
6. Lubricate end of oil cooler oil inlet tube with clean engine oil, and insert tube into fitting. Snug capscrews.
See Figure 250.
Figure 250
7. At this point check alignment of all connecting parts, and the snugged capscrews are now tightened.
Turbocharger Installation
1. Position turbocharger on engine, locating over the studs on the center section of the exhaust manifold. Do
not tighten at this time.
2. Install turbocharger oil drain from turbocharger to fitting on rear valve lifter cover. If drain does not line up
with fitting on rear cover, loosen turbine housing clamp (when provided) and rotate center housing to
provide proper alignment. Tighten oil drain line, then tighten turbine housing clamp.
3. Position cross over tube from turbocharger to inlet manifold, (or to charge air cooler header when so
equipped). If cross over tube does not line up, clamp (when provided) on turbocharger compressor housing
can be loosened to align tube. Attach hoses at both ends of tube and tighten hose clamps at each end.
Tighten turbocharger compressor housing clamp.
4. Finally, torque turbocharger mounting stud nuts or bolt nuts to specifications.
Prime turbocharger before engine start up by removing turbo oil supply inlet fitting at top of turbocharger
center section, and adding approximately 1/2 pint of clean engine oil. Figure to perform the prelubrication
procedure may result in premature bearing failure due to "oil lag" or lack of lubrication. See Figure 251 --
Priming Turbocharger.
Figure 251 -- Priming Turbocharger
INTRODUCTION
This procedure is recommended for Mack E6 engines equipped with Bosch P7100 series close coupled injection
pumps.
The fixed "light" timing method basically is timing with lights — a simple yet accurate method to set injection
pump to engine timing.
Typical Bosch P7100 close coupled drive injection pump with attaching parts.
Recommended Tools
Fixed timing sensor/light J37077
Figure 252
This section consists of four procedures:
1. Installation and alignment of pump drive hub
2. Injection pump installation on engine
3. Injection pump to engine timing
4. Check injection pump to engine timing
To insure optimum fuel economy, engine durability and to maintain engine exhaust within established EPA
limits, the accuracy in setting injection pump timing is the most powerful "tool."
Figure 253
Check condition of the four injection pump metric mounting studs; replace if defective. See Figure 254.
Figure 254
Install the injection pump/hub assembly over the mounting studs and move pump forward until the adapter
plate contacts the engine. See Figure 255.
Figure 255
Install the washers and nuts to all mounting studs. See Figure 256.
Figure 256
Torque the mounting stud nuts to 40 lbs. ft. See Figure 257.
Figure 257
Remove fixing plate plug (RH rear of pump) with 8 mm Allen wrench. See Figure 258 and Figure 259.
Figure 258
Figure 259
The fixed timing sensor/light tool shown in the following illustrations differs slightly from the tool shown in
Figure 252. The front cover and on/off rocker switch were changed to simplify operation.
Align the fixed timing probe in the fixed plate plug opening. See Figure 260.
Figure 260
To install, slowly turn the knurled surface clockwise. See Figure 261.
Figure 261
Connect fixed timing sensor tester ground to engine. See Figure 262.
Figure 262
Rotate injection pump in clockwise direction (normal engine rotation) until both A and B lamps are lighted. The
pump is now positioned at port closure on number one cylinder. There is only a very small band of rotation for
which both lights are lit. See Figure 263.
Figure 263
Light A will light first if the injection pump is being rotated in the correct direction; this indicates injection pump
is very near port closure. See Figure 264.
Figure 264
Install the pump driven gear on the drive hub so that the slots in the gear are centered about the screw holes in
the hub. See Figure 265 and Figure 266.
Figure 265
Figure 266
Alignment dowels can be used for ease of installation; order kit J37085.
Care should be taken so that pump driven gear to hub capscrews and washers are not dropped into engine
during installation.
Install the pump driven gear to hub capscrews snugly to remove clearance but allow relative motion between
hub and gear. See Figure 267.
Figure 267
Rotate pump hub counter to normal rotation (counter clockwise) until capscrews bottom in the end of the slots
in the gear. Both lamps will go out. See Figure 268.
Figure 268
Rotate pump hub in the direction of normal rotation (clockwise) until both A and B lamps are lighted; there is
only a very small band of rotation for which both lamps are lit. See Figure 269.
Figure 269
Torque the pump driven gear to hub capscrews to 40 lbs. ft. See Figure 270.
Figure 270
Figure 271
Rotate engine in normal rotation (clockwise) until both A and B lamps are lighted. The timing indicator should be
at desired timing. See Figure 272.
Figure 272
If timing is not within specifications, reset and recheck timing.
INSTALLATION OF COVER
Lubricate cover O-ring with Lubrizol OS-50044 or equivalent. See Figure 273.
Figure 273
Install cover capscrews (yellow patch lock). See Figure 274.
Figure 274
There are two different size capscrews. The two used for sealing are shorter in length and placed nearest
vibration damper.
Torque cover capscrews to 30 lbs. ft. See Figure 275.
Figure 275
Figure 276
Using midget sealing tool 814, or equivalent, compress the lead seal thus sealing the wire in lead. See Figure
277.
Figure 277
INJECTION NOZZLE, HOLDER/NOZZLE FUEL TUBES REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
General Information
Figure 1 -- Connection of Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube to Nozzle Holder
Close-up of Fuel Inlet Tube to Nozzle Holder
Figure 2 -- Injection Nozzle Location
Close-up of Nozzle Location
Figure 3 -- Nozzle Cross-Section
1. Nozzle Holder Locating Pin (Part of Nozzle Holder) 9. Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube
2. Nozzle Holder 10. Cylinder Head
3. Nozzle Holder Clamping Screw 11. Fuel Drain Passage (Nozzle Leak Off)
4. Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube Collar* 12. Injection Nozzle Holder Insert
5. Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube Sleeve* 13. Injection Nozzle Holder Gasket
6. Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube Clamping Screw* 14. Injection Nozzle
7. Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube Sleeve* 5. Injection Nozzle Holder O-Ring Seal (2)
8. Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube Sleeve Nut* 16. Injection Nozzle Holder O-Ring Seal (Upper)
*These parts are included with injection Nozzle Fuel Inlet Tube (Item 9) as an assembly only.
DESCRIPTION
The injection nozzle is vertically positioned and centered in the cylinder between the four valves. The nozzle fuel
inlet tubes are assembled through the side of the cylinder head. See Figure 1 -- Connection of Nozzle Fuel Inlet
Tube to Nozzle Holder and Figure 2 -- Injection Nozzle Location.
Before removing nozzle holder, the nozzle fuel inlet tube must be removed. Failure to remove the tube first will
result in damage to holder, tube and possibly cylinder head.
Figure 4
2. Remove nozzle fuel tube nut at injection pump (CAP OUTLET AT PUMP). See Figure 5.
Figure 5
3. Loosen nozzle fuel inlet tube sleeve nut. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
4. Loosen nozzle fuel inlet tube clamping screw. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
5. Remove nozzle fuel inlet tube. See Figure 8.
Figure 8
Figure 9
2. Remove nozzle holder using removal and installation tool, number J37093.
Figure 10
1. Housing Spacer 4. Handle
2. Bearing 5. Gage Block
3. Nut 6. Rubber Washer
3. Assemble bearing, spacer, and rubber washer to nozzle removal tool J37093. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
4. Screw handle of tool in nozzle holder until rubber gasket is slightly compressed. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
5. With tool in position, turn nut (UNDER HANDLE) clockwise, to remove nozzle holder. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
6. Continue turning nut out until nozzle holder is free of insert. Remove nozzle holder and removing tool as an
assembly. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
7. Remove the nozzle holder gasket (special iron material .060). See Figure 15.
Figure 15
8. Remove all other nozzle fuel inlet tubes, clamps and nozzle holders in the same manner.
Nozzle Holder Installation Procedure
This specified installation procedure must be followed to provide a satisfactory seal for the combustion gases in
the nozzle gasket area, and to ensure a satisfactory seal between the nozzle fuel inlet tube and nozzle holder.
Before installing gasket check nozzle holder seat. If there is any carbon build-up, use tool J26589 to clean.
Figure 16
Figure 17
The nozzle holder gasket is made of special iron material (.060 thickness) which has the same thermal
expansion rate as the cylinder head material. This gasket must be used to prevent leakage at this point.
2. If gasket is not sealed correctly, use a screwdriver or other suitable tool to seat gasket. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
The injection nozzle holder bore in the cylinder head has a machined relief. (A) The nozzle holder pin seats
into the relief and properly positions nozzle holder (B).
Figure 19
3. Install O-rings on nozzle holder. See Figure 20 for location.
Figure 20
4. Using installation tool J37093, thread end of the handle into threaded end of nozzle holder. See Figure 21.
Figure 21
5. Lubricate the nozzle holder O-ring seals with clean engine oil. See Figure 22.
Figure 22
6. Start installation of nozzle holder by aligning the pin in the holder with the relief in the cylinder head. Refer
to Figure 22.
7. After pin is engaged in the relief, force the nozzle holder into the head with a quick hard push on the top of
the installation tool. See Figure 23.
Figure 23
8. Nozzle holder should now be in the proper position in cylinder head. See Figure 24.
Figure 24
9. Thread gage block on the handle and position on top of nozzle holder. If nozzle holder is at correct depth,
the top surface of the gage block will be flush with the adjacent cylinder head surface. See Figure 25.
Figure 25
a. If the gage is below the level, it could indicate that the gasket was omitted.
b. If the gage is above the level, it could indicate that there are two gaskets under the nozzle holder.
c. Nozzle holder has not "bottomed" in gasket.
d. If gage is not available measure distance from top of nozzle holder to top of cylinder head surface.
Nominal dimension must be 0.564 inches.
10. Lubricate the threads of the nozzle holder clamping screw. See Figure 26.
Figure 26
11. Torque clamping screws to 75 lb. ft. See Figure 27.
Figure 27
A "crow's foot" adapter is required with wrench for installation of nozzle fuel inlet tubes.
1. Install nozzle fuel inlet tube into head. See Figure 28.
Figure 28
2. Before nozzle inlet tube screw is assembled into head, lubricate threads. See Figure 29.
Figure 29
3. Install nozzle fuel inlet tubes #1 through #6 into head until end of tube makes light contact with seat in
nozzle holder. "Snug" clamping screw at this point. See Figure 30.
Figure 30
4. Assemble nozzle fuel inlet tube sleeve nut into clamping screw and lightly tighten. See Figure 31.
Figure 31
5. Remove cap from outlet at pump and attach fuel inlet line nut at injection pump and tighten lightly. See
Figure 32.
Figure 32
6. The nozzle fuel inlet tube clamps must be installed at locations shown in Figure 33.
Figure 33
These clamps are required to prevent cavitation erosion and vibration failures of tubes.
7. Nozzle fuel inlet tube insulator and clamp assembly. See Figure 34.
Figure 34
8. Assembling nozzle fuel inlet tube insulator and clamps. See Figure 35.
Figure 35
9. Assemble all other fuel inlet tube insulators and clamps. Hand tighten at this point.
10. Torque all fuel inlet tube clamping screws to 35 lbs. ft. See Figure 36.
Figure 36
11. Torque all fuel inlet tube sleeve nuts to 15 lbs. ft. See Figure 37.
Figure 37
12. Torque all fuel tube injection nuts to 35 lbs. ft. at injection pump. See Figure 38.
Figure 38
13. Tighten all fuel tube clamp screws. See Figure 39.
Figure 39
DYNATARD ENGINE BRAKE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
General Information
All engines have the Mack Dynatard® engine brake camshaft. This camshaft is used with both "brake" and
"non-brake" engines.
The following instructions cover installation, adjusting procedures, and troubleshooting guide for the
dynatard engine brake.
2. Remove any engine mounted components that prevent access to the cylinder head covers.
3. Remove both cylinder head covers.
4. Remove both rocker arm assemblies.
5. Remove the exhaust push rods.
6. Remove the two 3/8 inch NPT pipe plugs (one from each cylinder head) from the side of each head directly
above the exhaust manifold. See Figure 1 and Figure 2.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Installation
1. Install the ball-type exhaust pushrods making sure that the ball ends are seated properly into the valve
lifter sockets. See Figure 3 and Figure 4.
Figure 3
1. Cup-type push rod 2. Ball-type push rod (dynatard)
Figure 4
2. The cylinder head capscrews between cylinders 2 and 3 and between cylinders 5 and 6 on the exhaust side
of the cylinder head must have a 3/8-16 untapped hole in the head. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
1. Tapped cylinder head capscrews 2. Standard cylinder head capscrews
The *ninth capscrew in the cylinder head retorquing sequence must have a 3/8-16 untapped hole in the
head. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
3. If tapped capscrews are not present, remove existing capscrews at designated locations. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
4. Lubricate and install tapped cylinder head capscrews. See Figure 8 and Figure 9.
Figure 8
Figure 9
5. Torque tapped capscrews to 220 lb. ft. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
6. Lubricate valve yoke guide pins. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
7. Lubricate all valve yoke contact points. See Figure 12 and Figure 13.
Figure 12
Figure 13
8. Install the dynatard engine brake rocker arm shaft assembly to the cylinder head. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
Make certain that hydraulic lash adjusters (or adjusting screws) are retracted upward in the rocker arms. If
these parts extend below the rocker arm to a great extent, the push rods could be bent when tightening
the rocker arm assembly brackets.
9. Make certain that bracket mounting surfaces are flat on head. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
10. Lubricate and install rocker arm bracket capscrews. See Figure 16 and Figure 17.
Figure 16
Figure 17
11. Torque the bracket capscrews to 55 lb. ft. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
12. Adjust valve lash, refer to the "valve lash adjustment" section. See Figure 19 and Figure 20.
Figure 19
Figure 20
13. Install the terminal and nylon washer in the tapped cylinder head capscrews. See Figure 21 and Figure 22.
Figure 21
Figure 22
Do not tighten the machine screw in the head of the terminal at this time.
14. Torque the terminals to 20 lb. in. See Figure 23.
Figure 23
15. Lubricate and install the wiring harness adapter (one per cylinder head). See Figure 24.
Figure 24
16. Tighten the wiring harness adapter. See Figure 25.
Figure 25
2. Wiring connection arrangement.
Figure 27
3. Tighten wiring harness fitting. See Figure 28.
Figure 28
4. Attach the harness short wire (which extends from the pass-throughs) terminal on the terminal post screw.
See Figure 29.
Figure 29
5. Attach the solenoid wire terminal on the terminal post screw. See Figure 30.
Figure 30
6. If the wire is out of position and cannot be attached to the terminal post screw, rotate the solenoid by hand
until wire is oriented toward the terminal post. See Figure 31.
Figure 31
Do not use a pipe wrench or any other tool to rotate the solenoid. This can cause internal damage.
7. Tighten the terminal post screw to make a good electrical connection between the solenoid valve and the
wiring harness. See Figure 32.
Figure 32
Check for electrical continuity between the wiring harness and chassis ground.
Due to the design variations between UTDS and Bosch fuel injection pumps two different types of injection
pump switches and actuator levers are used.
Injection Pump Switch R&R (UTDS)
Figure 33
1. Retaining capscrews 3. Wiring harness connection
2. Injection pump switch
1. Disconnect throttle linkage.
2. Remove the two bottom capscrews and lockwashers from the governor end cap and install the switch
assembly. See Figure 34 and Figure 35.
Figure 34
Figure 35
Replace existing capscrews with 1/8 inch longer capscrews.
3. Tighten the governor end cap/switch assembly capscrews. See Figure 36.
Figure 36
The throttle lever must be reinstalled in the same position on the throttle shaft.
4. Remove the throttle lever. See Figure 37.
Figure 37
5. Connect the long lead of the wiring harness to the inboard switch terminal. See Figure 38 and Figure 39.
Figure 38
Figure 39
6. Assemble the actuator lever to the throttle lever and install assembly on the throttle shaft. See Figure 40
and Figure 41.
Figure 40
Figure 41
The throttle lever must be reinstalled in the same position on the throttle shaft.
7. The throttle actuator lever must contact switch when installed and adjust the switch position so that the
switch "clicks" just as the throttle lever is pulled into low idle position. See Figure 42.
Figure 42
8. Connect throttle linkage.
B. Connect a continuity tester (standard volt-ohm meter) across the two switch terminals.
C. Secure the throttle lever in low idle position.
D. Slide the injection pump switch toward the throttle actuator lever to the point where continuity is just
obtained.
E. Tighten the two screws holding the injection pump switch to the switch bracket.
Injection Switch Adjustment R&R (Bosch)
Figure 43
1. Wire lead seal 4. Injection pump switch
2. Retaining capscrews 5. Wiring harness connection
3. Actuator lever
1. Disconnect throttle linkage.
2. Remove the small stamped cover from the rear of the governor housing.
3. Replace the cover with the throttle switch assembly, reusing the "racetrack" gasket in the governor
housing.
4. Install throttle switch assembly capscrews and lock washers.
5. Tighten the throttle switch assembly capscrews.
6. Connect the long lead of the wiring harness to the inboard switch terminal.
7. The throttle actuator lever must contact switch when installed. And adjust the switch position so that the
switch "clicks" just as the throttle lever is pulled into low idle position.
8. Connect throttle linkage.
B. Connect a continuity tester (standard volt-ohm meter) across the two switch terminals.
C. Secure the throttle lever in low idle position.
D. Slide the injection pump switch toward the throttle actuator lever to the point where continuity is just
obtained.
E. Tighten the two screws holding the injection pump switch to the switch bracket.
Figure 44
1. Wire clamps 3. Nylon straps
2. Wiring harness
WIRE CLAMPS
1. Install wire clamps with cylinder head cover capscrews. See Figure 45.
Figure 45
2. Torque cylinder head cover capscrews to 15 lb. ft. See Figure 46.
Figure 46
3. Route wiring harness through wire clamps and crimp wire clamps around wire. See Figure 47.
Figure 47
NYLON STRAPS
Attach nylon straps to wiring harness at the following locations:
Figure 48
Air Compressor Water Outlet Hose
Figure 49
Figure 50
Refer to Figure 44, wiring harness routing diagram for key locations.
A.
DASH SWITCH
Drill a 1/2 inch hole at a convenient location in the dash panel and mount the switch and nameplate to the
panel. See Figure 51.
Figure 51
CLUTCH SWITCH
Description
The clutch switch and bracket assembly is installed to the steering column. The clutch switch is basically a
micro-switch with a spring loaded actuator arm. See Figure 52.
Figure 52
Electrical Controls
The clutch switch connection is a series connection to the dash switch and both switches have to be activated to
engage the dynatard system. See Figure 53.
Figure 53
Installation
Mount the clutch switch and bracket assembly with the clutch pedal in the relaxed position. Locate switch
actuator arm so that the switch "clicks" when in contact with clutch arm. This position should allow switch to
work on the "backlash" of clutch pedal before actual clutch disengaging takes place. See Figure 54.
Figure 54
1. Clutch switch 3. Clutch arm
2. Bracket
When clutch is fully engaged check to be sure the switch spring loaded actuator arm maintains contact with the
clutch arm.
1.
Figure 55
Due to the design variations between vehicle models wire routing and cable lengths will vary. Some
vehicles (such as the MH) include some of the required cables in the factory installed harnesses. These
cables can be identified by their color. It is recommended to refer to the following publications for accurate
detailed wiring information:
MH electrical system manual R, RD, DM, DMM, RM, U Electrical 8-50 MC, MR electrical 8-50
2. Connect and secure the injection pump cable to the cab wiring harness. See Figure 56.
Figure 56
Injection pump cable to cab wiring harness connection is located on the right side of the firewall near the
air governor.
ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS
DESCRIPTION
This procedure is recommended for setting static injection pump timing (port closure). This method of checking
and/or setting port closure, pump to engine timing, is by high pressure. This employs a means of developing an
injection pump gallery pressure that will unseat the delivery valve spring and allow the port closing to be
checked and/or set without removing or disturbing the delivery valve arrangement.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS
Portable High Pressure Port-Closing Stand (Bacharach Part Number 72-7010).
Before timing engine verify setting on injection pump name plate or EPA engine emission plate, to insure the
recommended setting is used.
RECOMMENDATION
Modify high pressure timing, units, if necessary, to produce an operating pressure of 425–450 psi (2930–3100
kPa) when the injection pump is at "port closing."
The Portable High Pressure Timer Stand used in the following illustrations differs slightly from the typical model.
It was modified by adopting a pressure gauge, used for testing purposes, and is not applicable to the equipment
found in the field. It is extremely important to follow the High Pressure Timer instructions to establish accurate
injection timing.
Figure 1
1. Before opening or loosening any fuel lines, the exterior of the immediate area should be thoroughly cleaned
with compressed air or cleaning solvent. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
2. Remove injection line from the No. 1 delivery valve. See Figure 3.
Figure 3
3. Cap the injection line from the No. 1 delivery valve. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
4. Remove all return lines from the overflow relief valve union fittings. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
On upper fitting, standard pipe cap cannot be used, will cause thread strippage. Fabricate cap to fit.
5. Cap the valve port connections. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
6. Remove fuel inlet line. See Figure 7.
Figure 7
7. Attach the high pressure line from the portable PC stand to the fuel inlet connection of the injection pump.
See Figure 8.
Figure 8
8. Attach the portable PC stand return line to the No. 1 cylinder delivery valve holder. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
It is recommended to check the timing before making any adjustments.
9. Place the stop lever in full load position and secure. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
Stop Lever
When timing injection pump with the Mack Puff Limiter, 30 psi minimum air pressure must be applied and
maintained on the Puff Limiter Air Cylinder. This air pressure must be applied before the high pressure fuel
is delivered to the injection pump.
10. Remove the line from the Puff Limiter Cylinder. See Figure 11.
Figure 11
11. Attach an air pressure line with gauge to the Puff Limiter Cylinder. See Figure 12.
Figure 12
This 30 psi minimum air pressure must be applied BEFORE the high pressure fuel is delivered to the pump
in order to prevent mistiming.
12. Activate the throttle lever several times. See Figure 13.
Figure 13
13. Secure the throttle lever in the full load position. See Figure 14.
Figure 14
14. Now activate the high pressure timer, and fuel pressure will be introduced to the pump gallery. Fuel
pressure applied prior to securing throttle lever in full load position may prevent proper port closing. See
Figure 15.
Figure 15
DIRECTION OF NORMAL ROTATION.
Direction of Rotation
Do not use starting motor to "BUMP" engine.
15. Slowly bar the engine, bringing up the No. 1 piston on its compression stroke. See Figure 16.
Figure 16
16. Stop barring engine when the fuel flow from the No. 1 delivery valve changes from a solid stream to the
formation of drops. This is known as port closing. See Figure 17.
Figure 17
17. If the timing indicator is at the specified mark on the vibration damper, the engine is timed correctly. See
Figure 18.
Figure 18
If the timing differs from specifications, check T.D.C. Engine 5-5.5 Master Manual Section. If the procedure
was followed correctly and incorrect timing still exists proceed as follows.
18. Shut off the portable PC stand and break the lead seal on the pump drive timing gear cover. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
19. Remove the pump drive timing gear cover capscrews. See Figure 20.
Figure 20
20. Remove the pump drive timing gear cover. See Figure 21.
Figure 21
Travel of adjusting slot in NORMAL ROTATION will advance timing. Travel of adjusting slot counter to
NORMAL ROTATION will retard timing.
21. Loosen the engine to pump drive coupling capscrews. See Figure 22.
Figure 22
22. Move the injection pump drive in the opposite direction to normal rotation until the pump drive is at the
end of its adjusting slots. See Figure 23.
Figure 23
23. Snug tighten the engine to pump drive coupling capscrews. See Figure 24.
Figure 24
24. Bar the engine counter to normal rotation a minimum of 45 degrees; then proceed to bar the engine in the
direction of normal rotation, bringing up the No. 1 piston on its compression stroke. Stop at the
recommended static port closing degrees BTC which is read on the vibration damper. See Figure 25.
Figure 25
25. Slowly turn the injection pump drive in the direction of normal rotation until the fuel flow from the No. 1
delivery valve outlet changes from a solid stream to the formation of drops. This is port closing. See Figure
26.
Figure 26
26. Lock the drive gear capscrews securely, being very careful not to disturb the relative position of the gear to
driveshaft and thus the port closing setting. See Figure 27.
Figure 27
27. Turn the engine crankshaft counter to normal rotation a minimum of 45 degrees. See Figure 28.
Figure 28
28. Slowly turn the engine crankshaft in normal rotation. Droplets should form to indicate port closing at the
desired timing. See Figure 29.
Figure 29
Repeat the Timing Gear Adjustment Procedure (Steps 24-29) IF required, to obtain the specified Port
Closure Timing.
To insure optimum fuel economy, engine durability and to maintain engine exhaust within established EPA
limits, the accuracy in setting injection pump timing is the most powerful "tool".
29. When the timing is correct, torque the drive gear capscrews to 40 ft. lbs. See Figure 30.
Figure 30
30. Thoroughly clean surface area of cover. See Figure 31.
Figure 31
31. Install a new gasket to the cover and position in place with the capscrews. See Figure 32.
Figure 32
32. Install the two drilled capscrews that hold the pump drive timing gear cover wire lead seal. See Figure 33.
Figure 33
33. Torque the pump drive timing gear cover capscrews to 30 ft. lbs. See Figure 34.
Figure 34
34. To install the pump drive timing gear cover wire lead seal, extend the wire portion of the lead seal fully,
and place one end through one of the drilled capscrews. See Figure 35.
Figure 35
35. Securely attach one end of the wire to the drilled capscrew, and proceed to run the existing wire through
the next drilled capscrew. See Figure 36.
Figure 36
36. Run the wire through the center of the lead seal, and loop it, and bring it through again. See Figure 37.
Figure 37
37. Use Midget Sealing Tool, 814, (E.J. Brooks Co. 164 North 13th Street, Newark, New Jersey 07107) to
compress the lead seal thus sealing the wire in lead. See Figure 38.
Figure 38
38. Disconnect air pressure line from the Puff Limiter Air Cylinder. See Figure 39.
Figure 39
39. Reconnect Puff Limiter Line to Cylinder. See Figure 40.
Figure 40
40. Remove the caps from the overflow relief valve union port connections. See Figure 41.
Figure 41
41. Reconnect all fuel return lines. See Figure 42.
Figure 42
42. Disconnect the stand high pressure line from the fuel inlet of the injection pump gallery. See Figure 43.
Figure 43
43. Reconnect the high pressure fuel inlet line to the injection pump gallery. See Figure 44.
Figure 44
44. Disconnect the stand return line from the No. 1 cylinder delivery valve holder. See Figure 45.
Figure 45
45. Remove cap from the No. 1 injection line. See Figure 46.
Figure 46
46. Reconnect the injection line to the No. 1 delivery valve holder and torque to 35 ft. lbs. See Figure 47.
Figure 47
47. Disconnect hold-down on throttle lever and connect all throttle linkage. See Figure 48.
Figure 48
Checking Valve Timing
GENERAL INFORMATION
Correct valve timing is essential for proper engine performance. However, incorrect valve timing may be suspect
if soon after engine overhaul, lack of performance, unusual noise and excessive smoke are reported.
The following service procedure covers six cylinder 4VH Series Diesel Engines.
Verify engine timing indicator accuracy. It must be stressed if the engine timing indicator is bent or misaligned,
it must be corrected before checking valve timing. Refer to the appropriate six cylinder overhaul manual.
Prior to barring engine for any reason, secure injection pump stop lever in STOP position.
TIMING INDICATOR
The E6-4VH Engine Timing Indicator is a dual position timing pointer. One position is for adjusting the valves,
while the other position is for timing the pump to the engine. When checking valve timing use the pointer
marked "Pump."
Figure 49
Valve Arrangement (Typical 6 Cylinder 4VH Engine)
Valve timing can be checked using either cylinder number three or four inlet valve. For example purposes the
number three cylinder will be cited in the following steps.
1. Remove cylinder head cover over cylinder number three.
2. Locate INLET valve(s) for the number three cylinder (the sixth valve from front of engine). Position number
three piston on TDC (compression stroke).
3. Loosen (back-off) the inlet valve rocker adjusting screw. Insure valve yoke is correctly adjusted. Adjust
inlet valve to "0" zero lash.
4. Position dial indicator (magnetic base type) probe on valve spring retainer. Pre-load indicator to 1/2
indicator travel.
A valve timing check can be made with the front valve rocker arm and bracket assembly removed. Locate
push rod on the number three cylinder for the inlet valve(s). Position dial indicator (magnetic base type) on
push rod (center of CUP). Pre-load indicator to 1/2 indicator travel.
5. Bar the engine in direction of normal rotation and carefully observe direction in which needle of indicator
travels. Use dial indicator to determine when the inlet valve is fully open.
When travel of dial indicator needle "stops", stop rotation of engine at this point. If dial indicator needle
reverses direction,"full open" position is passed, repeat procedure.
The design of the 6 cylinder 4VH camshaft requires a dual timing indicator, one pointer marked "Valve" and
the second pointer marked "Pump". In this procedure the pointer marked "Pump"must be used.
6. Check timing indicator, pointer marked pump to scale relationship on vibration damper when inlet valve full
open position is determined as described in step 5. Timing indicator pointer should be within 3 degrees
(RETARD or ADVANCE) of figure given in "Six Cylinder Diesel Engine Camshaft and Timing Indicator
Relationship" chart.
A difference of 10 degrees indicates crankshaft and timing gears may be mismatched one tooth.
Six Cylinder Diesel Engine Camshaft and Timing Indicator Relationship
Readjust valves to specifications.
Prior to barring engine for any reason secure injection pump stop lever in stop position.
The yoke and valve adjustment must be set under static conditions. (Coolant temperature below 100 degrees
F.)
To properly adjust the valves under static conditions, the vibration damper is marked in 120 degree increments.
See Figure 50.
Figure 50
All engines have the Mack Dynatard® engine brake camshaft. This camshaft is used with both "brake" and
"non-brake" engines.
To adjust yoke and valves bar engine in normal rotation until the number one piston timing mark (on the
compression stroke) is in alignment with pointer marked "valve." This provides the 30 degree after TDC
relationship for valve lash adjustment, necessary with the 4VH camshaft design. See Figure 50 for valve timing
mark locations on vibration damper.
The procedure for setting exhaust valve yoke and valve lash adjustment for non-brake and brake engines is
similar. Except, the exhaust rocker arm in non-brake engines does not contain a hydraulic adjuster and
resembles an inlet valve rocker arm, tool J37092 is not required.
Figure 51
Loosen the yoke adjusting screw lock nut. See Figure 52.
Figure 52
Exert a moderate force on the yoke by pressing on the rocker arm slipper end. Turn down yoke adjusting screw
until it solidly contacts outboard valve stem tip, as sensed by light "drag" on adjusting screw. See Figure 53.
Figure 53
Turn adjusting screw an additional 1/6 turn (60 degrees) clockwise. See Figure 54.
Figure 54
A 1/6 turn is equal to one flat on the adjusting screw lock nut. See Figure 55.
Figure 55
Holding the yoke adjusting screw in this position, tighten adjusting screw lock nut. See Figure 56.
Figure 56
Figure 57
Exert a moderate force on the yoke by pressing on the rocker arm slipper end. An equal "drag" should be felt on
both thickness gauges. If "drag" is unequal, readjust yoke adjusting screw.
Figure 58
Turn the adjusting screw until a light "drag" is felt on the thickness gauge. See Figure 59.
Figure 59
After setting adjustment screw, tighten lock nut. See Figure 60.
Figure 60
Figure 61
Using tool J37092, press downward with hand on the hydraulic lash adjuster while gauging valve lash. Adjust
the lash until a light "drag" is felt on the thickness gauge. See Figure 62.
Figure 62
After adjustment is completed, tighten lock nut.
CONTINUATION OF ADJUSTMENTS
Following the adjustment of the yoke and valves on the number one cylinder, bar engine in normal rotation
120° until the number five piston timing mark (on the compression stroke) is in alignment with pointer marked
"Valve." This will place the number five piston 30 degrees after TDC. Refer to Figure 50 for location of timing
marks on the vibration damper.
Adjust the yoke and valve lash as previously outlined for the number one cylinder.
Continue adjusting yoke and valve lash for the remaining cylinders, in firing order, placing each piston 30
degrees after TDC with respective turning of the engine crankshaft.
This procedure must be followed to establish proper yoke and valve adjustment.
ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECKS
The durability and service life of a rebuilt engine is directly related to its initial run-in following overhaul. After a
complete overhaul or major repair job involving the installation of piston rings, pistons, cylinder liners/sleeves or
bearings, the engine must be "run-in" prior to release for service.
The procedure for run-in will vary depending on the type of method used, i.e., engine dynamometer, chassis
dynamometer or highway run-in. Regardless of method chosen for engine run-in, however, the engine must be
properly prepared before starting for the first time.
Lubrication System
The lubricating oil film on the rotating parts and bearings of an overhauled engine may be insufficient for proper
lubrication when the engine is started for the first time; therefore, the following briefly describes the
recommended procedure to assure proper lubrication.
1. Install new oil filters. See Figure 1.
Figure 1
2. Fill a pressure prelubricator with the recommended MACK specified oil and connect the pressure
prelubricator to the main oil gallery. Prime the engine lubrication system with sufficient oil.
Usually there are various points on the engine where the pressure line may be tapped into; but if no other
is apparent, the oil gauge line may be disconnected and the pressure tank applied at that point.
3. Remove the oil level dipstick, and check crankcase level. Add sufficient oil, if necessary, to bring it to the
full mark on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL! Refer to Figure 2.
Figure 2
Turbocharger
Disconnect the turbocharger oil inlet line and add approximately one pint of clean engine oil in the line, thus
making sure the bearings are lubricated for initial start. Reconnect the oil line. See Figure 3.
Figure 3
2. Inspect all piping, connections, and air cleaner element. Replace components as required.
Cooling System
1. Check the Cooling System.
2. The system must be equipped with a new coolant conditioner and filled with the recommended coolant
mixture. See Figure 4.
Figure 4
To ensure that all air is purged from the cooling system, remove a plug from the top (or end) of the water
manifold during filling to eliminate air possibly trapped by rapid filling. See Figure 5.
Figure 5
Check that all plugs and thermostat(s) are installed.
Fuel System
1. Check the fuel system.
2. Install new primary and secondary fuel filters. See Figure 6.
Figure 6
Prime system with clean diesel fuel (DF-A-Grade 2D).
3. Check valve clearance, and injection pump to engine timing must be set for the specific engine.
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES
General Information
Install any additional instrumentation needed for the run-in method selected.
Before using Chassis Dynamometer method for run-in, the operator should become totally familiar with the
correct established procedure for checking chassis power. (Reference applicable CHASSIS DYNAMOMETER
OPERATION.)
Because a turbocharger operates at such high speeds, lubrication at start up and shutdown is of primary
importance.
When the engine is started, idle for 3 minutes to allow oil pressure to build up. Accelerating engine to top rpm
immediately after starting can damage turbocharger.
Likewise, when preparing to shutdown, idle engine for 3 minutes to assure that turbocharger is rotating slowly.
This idling period dissipates heat buildup and prevents possible turbocharger damage.
If the engine develops any of the following abnormal running characteristics during run-in, it should be
immediately shut down. Investigate and correct the problem before continuing the run-in procedure:
1. Any unusual noises such as knocking, scraping, etc.
2. Any significant drop in engine oil pressure.
3. Any significant rise in coolant temperature that exceeds 200°F.
4. Any significant rise in oil temperature that exceeds 240°F.
5. Any exhaust temperature that exceeds maximum acceptable limit for the specific engine involved, as
measured by a pyrometer (if applicable).
6. Any oil, coolant, or air inlet system leaks.
Engine Dynamometer Check
1. With the engine "STOP" engaged, crank the engine until oil pressure is observed on the oil gauge. Release
"STOP" and when engine starts, run at 800 to 1000 RPM no load for 3 to 5 minutes to check for oil
pressure, unusual noises, leaks, etc. Shut down engine and check oil and coolant levels. Correct as
necessary.
2. Run the engine at 1600 RPM and set the dynamometer at 1/4 to 1/2 load for the engine being tested (refer
to applicable engine torque curve). Operate for 15 minutes at this RPM/load or until the thermostat opens
and the oil temperature reaches 140°F. minimum.
3. Set the throttle at full load and adjust the dynamometer load to obtain governed speed. Run-in engine at
this speed/load for 1/2 hour and record all data such as oil pressure (main) (piston cooling), coolant
temperature, oil temperature, torque output, air temperature, fuel temperature (pressure), exhaust
temperature, etc.
4. With throttle at full load, adjust the dynamometer load to obtain intermediate speed for Maxidyne®
engines (1600 RPM) or peak torque for non-Maxidyne® engines. Run at this speed/load for 1/4 hour and
record data.
5. With throttle at full load, adjust the dynamometer load to obtain peak torque on Maxidyne® engines and
run for 1/4 hour. Record data. On non-Maxidyne® engines, continue with step 4 for an extra 1/4 hour.
6. Check hi-idle and low-idle of engine.
7. Retorque heads, adjust valves, retighten hose clamps, manifold nuts/screws, etc., and prepare for chassis
installation.
INSTRUCTIONS
Determine that Chassis Dynamometer is in calibration before starting test. Periodic testing by running a single
axle chassis on each roll will aid in determining condition of each absorption unit and instrumentation.
To check chassis power, proceed as follows:
1. Check engine oil and coolant level. Check gear oil level in transmission and carrier. Check tire pressure and
lugs. Inspect for shifted axle or loose drive line and make certain chassis rolls freely with brakes released.
Check quantity of fuel in all tanks. Make sure air cleaner is served and all connections are tight.
Start engine and warm up for at least 15 minutes, preferably by road test. Road testing serves to warm up
transmission and carrier(s), as well as the engine.
All chassis operating on a dynamometer must have adequate cooling air. Pay particular attention to coolant
and exhaust pyrometer temperatures. Do not exceed maximum limits. If excessively high temperatures are
observed and the dynamometer room temperature is not suspected of causing the high temperature
condition, check the inlet manifold charge air cooling temperature. Check by installing a calibrated
temperature gauge in the down stream side of the system after the charge air cooling core, preferably at
the inlet manifold. Temperature should not exceed 140°F.
a. Place chassis on dynamometer, chock front wheels, and install safety chain. Be sure governor is
properly set to prevent the engine from over-speeding; check and record no load RPM in neutral, full
throttle. Be sure throttle lever at pump is wide open at full throttle. Unload dynamometer, record MPH
on chassis and dynamometer speedometers.
Hold full throttle and apply load slowly and evenly with dynamometer until maximum RPM is reached.
Allow indicators to stabilize and then record WHP, RPM and MPH.
b. Bogie equipped vehicles are tested using the procedure given in the following CAUTION. However,
extreme care must be taken if the bogie is equipped with an inter-axle power divider but without a
locknut.
In testing, the two bogie axles must not exceed"5 miles per hour" difference in road speed. With the
engine at the speed to be tested and the dynamometer "unloaded," the two"load" buttons must be
applied slowly and evenly, at the same time observing the "MPH" meters to be certain the "5 mile per
hour" differential is not exceeded. This differential is maintained by applying the "Load" and "Un-Load"
control buttons, depending on the response of the dynamometer. On vehicles equipped with a power
divider "Lock-out" control, the lockout should be engaged during testing.
If chassis without power divider lock-out are to be run on a dynamometer with one live set of rollers, a
power divider fabricated lock-out device must be used. Contact the local Mack® Branch or Distributor
for details.
2. When testing any chassis equipped with a TC15 or TC150 transfer case, it is necessary to disconnect the
front wheel propeller shaft at the transfer case and the transfer center differential lockup clutch must be
engaged.
These chassis are not designed for continuous operation with the rear wheels turning and the front wheels
standing still. Excessive speeds of internal parts, such as in the transfer differential assembly, exist under
this condition.
3. Starting at high RPM a power test should be made at each decreasing 200 RPM with the exception that a
test should be made 100 RPM below governed speed (e.g. 2100, 2000, 1800, 1600, etc.) down to peak
torque RPM.
GENERAL NOTES
When testing Maxidyne® engines, be sure to take dynamometer readings at peak torque and top rated RPMs.
Chassis equipped with Maxi-Miser® governors may be chassis dynamometer tested in a lower gear to eliminate
the Maxi-Miser® feature in order to check power to maximum RPM.
While checking power, hold throttle down hard — do not allow throttle to back off, run in direct gear — may not
be high gear, water temperature should be normal, air compressor should not be pumping, generator should be
charging minimum.
Allow power readings to stabilize. Read and record figures accurately.
IMPORTANT
Chassis dynamometer test results will vary from dynamometer to dynamometer. The local shop must establish
their own acceptable wheel horsepower range on that particular dynamometer. Past records are the most
reliable guide to acceptable wheel horsepower. Generally WHP output should be approximately 80 to 85 percent
for dual axle chassis. Variations from one dynamometer to another are due to altitude of shop location, wheel
roll diameter, etc. Small roll dynamometers will generally experience more tire slippage than dynamometers
equipped with larger diameter rolls.
Do not perform a dynamometer test with radial ply, recapped or snow tread tires mounted on the vehicle. Radial
ply and recapped tires may experience tread damage and, in the case of recaps, tread separation. Snow tread
tires can upset and reduce dynamometer readings. Use a set of "slave" tires when testing a vehicle equipped
with any of these tire types. The preferred slave tire is a cross ply type having minimum tread depth.
Power readings are also reduced by high ambient temperatures and chassis with heavy truck bodies, tanks,
equipment or any form of excessive weight.
All chassis Mounted Charge Air Cooled engines require a slave system for charge air cooling when tested on an
engine dynamometer. Contact the nearest Mack® Factory Branch which will obtain the necessary details from
the factory.
Chassis Dynamometer
Follow proper dynamometer operating procedure as described under CHASSIS DYNAMOMETER OPERATION
(All Chassis With Mack® Diesel Engines).
2. Operate the chassis on the dynamometer in direct gear with no load at 1600 RPM for approximately 1/4
hour or until the thermostat opens and/or the oil temperature reaches 140°F. minimum.
3. Select both an RPM and gear range so that the dynamometer can operate for 1/4 to 1/2 hour at, or near,
full load governed speed ad operate at this RPM for 1/4 to 1/2 hour for run-in. Record all applicable data.
Depending on roller size, tire condition and size, it may be necessary to run the 1/2 hour in short
increments with a brief cooling off period in between.
4. Start at governed speed and run chassis through entire speed range at 200 RPM intervals with full load in
direct gear, approximately three minutes in each speed range and record all applicable data.
5. Check hi-idle and low-idle of engine.
6. Retorque heads, adjust valves, retighten hose clamps, manifold nuts/screws, etc., and ready chassis for
the road.
Highway Run-in
1. Refer to step 1 under Engine Dynamometer.
2. Use a loaded trailer or body and operate the truck through all gear ranges for approximately 1/2 hour with
RPM not exceeding 1800 except as necessary to make gear changes.
3. Enter a limited access highway and operate the truck at, or near, governed speed for 1/2 to 1 hour
4. Check hi-idle and low-idle of engine.
5. Retorque heads, adjust valves, retighten hose clamps, manifold nuts/screws, etc., and ready chassis for
road.
1. Torque to 50 lbs. ft.
2. Repeat to 125 lbs. ft.
3. Finally to 220 lbs. ft.
Do not overtorque. Be sure to retorque heads at 3000 miles. Individually retorque each capscrew on any one
cylinder head in sequence shown by backing off until free; apply engine oil under the head of each capscrew.
Using an accurately calibrated torque wrench, retorque same capscrew to 220 lbs. ft.
E6 4VH ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Fits and Limits: Auxiliary Driveshaft — Connecting Rod
Fits and Limits: Connecting Rod (continued) — Cylinder Head
Fits and Limits: Cylinder Head (continued) — Flywheel and Housing
Fits and Limits: Injection Pump Drive — Piston
Fits and Limits: Piston Rings — Valve Springs
Torque Specifications
Torque Specifications: Auxiliary Drive — Hose Clamps
Torque Specifications: Injection Pump Drive — Oil Cooler
The above listed fasteners required the use of either a calibrated manual torque wrench or a torque control air
motor.
+Threads, washers, under head of screws and washer face of nuts to be lubricated with SAE30 motor oil. All
values listed are lb. ft. unless otherwise specified. Tolerances for torque specifications (unless otherwise
specified) ± 5% of torque listed.
N — Patch Locking Feature
P — Place Head Screw
*— Oil all cylinder head capscrew bosses, capscrew threads and washers with SAE #30 engine oil prior to
assembly. Do not oil threads in cylinder block. Tighten capscrews individually on any one head in the proper
sequence in the following steps:
1. Tighten all to 50 lbs. ft.
2. Repeat in sequence to 125 lbs. ft.
3. Repeat in sequence to 220 lbs. ft. before retorque
After run-in procedure, in sequence, back off each capscrew individually until free, then retorque same capscrew
to 220 lbs. ft.
***INSTALL SPACERS WITH 1.25 DIA. ADJACENT TO CYL. BLOCK AND MOUNTING SCREWS LOOSE. ADJUST
SPACERS TO .002 INTERFERENCE EACH BEFORE TORQUING MOUNTING SCREWS.
No sealer of any type is to be applied to either the plug or the tapped hole when using the Teflon coated pipe
plugs.
Pipe Plugs and Additional Fasteners
Metric Mismatch
Potential external/internal thread mismatch condition(s) may occur with certain metric thread-inch
thread fastener combinations and with fastener combinations involving incompatible metric fastener
systems. A given thread mismatch condition can result in thread stripping and/or assembly
weakness leading to potential service failure, thereby rendering a vehicle non-operational and/or
unsafe for operation.
The specific external/internal thread combinations from which such problems can result are
identified and set forth below as thread combinations which must not be utilized in service.
Inch Thread vs. Metric Thread
Inch Thread vs. Metric Thread (continued)
ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS (FLUID FLOW)
Figure 1 -- Air Intake System (E6 Series)
Figure 3 -- Coolant Flow
Lubrication System Flow Diagram
E6 Engine Oil Flow