Unlined Go-To Jacket

Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg.
Unlined Go-To Jacket

UNLINE GO-TO-JACKET by Elsabe Hurn for Sure-Fit Designs
This unlined jacket is created using your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit Bodice and Skirt
blueprints. The jacket features princess seams in front and back, a bust-to-high-hip
center front zipper, and contrasting trim at the center front, neckline, and hemline.
You can also choose to add a frayed trim at the hem and/or center front; try using the
selvage of your fabric. You decide how fitted you want this jacket by deciding whether
or not to incorporate the waist fitting darts into the princess seams. Since this jacket is
unlined, you may want to try your hand at Hong Kong finishing your seam allowances;
refer to Elsabe’s Trendy Designer Jacket Sew-Along for instructions. Make this jacket
in any woven jacket-weight fabric such as boucle, denim, cotton / cotton blend, tweed,
linen, suede, etc. You can also use woven stretch fabrics such as bengaline.
The sample garment uses 1 3/4 to 2 yards (1.6 to 1.8 meters) of 59” (150 cm) wide wool boucle.
The inspiration for this jacket came from the following.
Copyright© 2022, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 2
NOTIONS:
• Matching Thread
• Compatible Fusible Interfacing
• 4” to 7” (10.2 to 17.8 cm) Separating Metal Zipper
• Frayed Selvage or Purchased Trim for Frayed Look / Finish
• OPTIONAL Lightweight, Soft Fabric for Bias-Cut Seam Bindings (if choosing a Hong Kong seam finish)
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Pattern Preparation
a. Trace the Bodice Front without seam allowances from your Dress Kit blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum longer than the
desired jacket length.
b. Place the traced bodice front on top of your skirt front from your Dress Kit blueprint, lining up the sideways ‘T’ marks.
c. Trace the skirt front without seam allowances to the desired blouse length; for example, 4” to 5” (10.2 to 12.7 cm) below the
waist level.
d. Draw the hem from center front to the side seam, making sure the hemline is square to the side seam and center front.
e. Mark the center front and grainlines.
f. Trace the Bodice Back without seam allowances from your Dress Kit blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum longer than the
desired jacket length.
g. Place the traced bodice back on top of your skirt back from your Dress Kit blueprint, lining up the sideways ‘T’ marks.
h. Trace the skirt back without seam allowances to the same length as the front.
i. Draw the hem from the center back to the side seam, making sure the hemline is square to the side seam and center back.
j. Mark the center back and grainlines.
k. Trace the Woven Sleeve without seam allowances from your Dress Kit blueprint onto a piece of tracing vellum.
l. Mark the grainline.
Longer Version Shorter Version
2. Jacket Front
TIP: Refer to page 35 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book to convert your Dress Kit blueprint to a jacket blueprint. The
instructions below specify the recommended ease for this Jacket design.
a. On the Jacket Front, mark a dot on center front down 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the neck point.
b. On the Jacket Front, mark a dot on the shoulder line 1/8” (0.3 cm) toward the shoulder point.
c. Draw a neck curve from the new neck point dot on the shoulder seam to the center front dot, maintaining a 90-degree angle
at center front.
d. On the Jacket Front, extend the shoulder point out 1/4” (0.6 cm) on the shoulder line.
e. On the Jacket Front, extend the side seam out 3/8” (1.0).
f. On the Jacket Front, lower the underarm point 1/2” (1.3 cm) at the side seam.
g. Redraw the armscye and side seam.
h. On the Jacket Front, draw the Front / Neckline Contrast Band 3/4” to 1” (2.0 to 2.5 cm) from the edges of the neckline and
center front.
i. On the Jacket Front, draw the Front Hemline Contrast Band 3/4” to 1” (2.0 to 2.5 cm) from the inside edge of center front
Contrast Band to the side seam.
j. On the Jacket Front, draw the princess seam line from the shoulder line to the top of the hemline Contrast Band. The
princess seam can incorporate the waist fitting dart or not, depending on how much ease you prefer and how fitted you
would like your jacket to be.
k. On the Jacket Front, mark a dot on the center front that is at the same level as the bust apex. This will indicate the top of the
center front zipper.
l. Trace the Center Front Contrast Band from the Jacket Front to a separate piece of tracing vellum.
m. Trace the Front Hemline Contrast Band from the Jacket Front to a separate piece of tracing vellum.
n. Cut the Contrast Bands from the Jacket Front.
o. Mark matching notches on the princess seam line.
p. Cut the Jacket Front apart on the princess seam line.
q. On the Jacket Side Front, move the bust dart into the princess seam line at the shoulder by closing the side bust dart as
illustrated.
TIP: Refer to page 24 of the Dress Kit Instruction book for dart transfers.
3. Jacket Back
a. On the Jacket Back, mark a dot on center back down 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the neck point.
b. On the Jacket Back, mark a dot on the shoulder line 1/8” (0.3 cm) toward the shoulder point.
c. Draw a neck curve from the new neck point dot on the shoulder seam to the center back dot, maintaining a 90-degree angle
at center back.
d. On the Jacket Back, extend the shoulder point out 1/4” (0.6 cm) on the shoulder line.
e. On the Jacket Back, extend the side seam out 3/8” (1.0 cm).
f. On the Jacket Back, lower the underarm point 1/2” (1.3 cm) at the side seam.
g. Redraw the armscye and side seam.
TIP: The Contrast Bands must be the same width on the Jacket Back as on the Jacket Front.
h. On the Jacket Back, draw the Back Neck Contrast Band 3/4” to 1” (2.0 to 2.5 cm) at the neckline.
i. On the Jacket Back, draw the Back Hemline Contrast Band 3/4” to 1” (2.0 to 2.5 cm) from the bottom edge.
j. If necessary, redraw the bottom of the waist fitting dart so that it ends above the Back Hemline Contrast Band.
k. On the Jacket Back, draw the princess seam line from the shoulder line to the top of the Back Hemline Contrast Band,
ensuring the princess lines on front and back meet at the shoulder line*. The princess seam can incorporate the waist fitting
dart or not, depending on how fitted you would like your jacket to be.
l. Trace the Back Neckline Contrast Band from the Jacket Back to a separate piece of tracing vellum.
m. Trace the Back Hemline Contrast Band from the Jacket Back to a separate piece of tracing vellum.
n. Cut the Contrast Bands from the Jacket Back.
o. Mark matching notches on the princess seam line.
p. Cut the Jacket Back apart on the princess seam line. If you have a shoulder dart, it will be incorporated into the princess
seam line.
4. Sleeve
TIP: If you prefer a two-piece sleeve, refer to pages 36-37 of the Dress Kit Instruction Book for drafting instructions.
a. On the Sleeve, extend both underarm points out 3/8” (1.0 cm).
b. On the Sleeve, lower both underarm points 1/2" (1.3 cm).
c. On the Sleeve, extend both wrist points out 1/4” (0.6 cm).
d. Lengthen the Sleeve 1/2" (1.3 cm).
e. Redraw the underarm seam lines, ensuring the underarm points meet the sleeve cap at right angles.
5. Seam Allowances
TIP: If you don’t have a curve at the side seam of your hemline contrast bands, you can join the Front Hemline
Contrast Band and the Back Hemline Contrast Band to eliminate side seams at the hemline.
a. On the Jacket Center Front Panel, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges.
b. On the Jacket Side Front Panel, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges.
c. On the Jacket Center Back Panel, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges, except center back, unless you have a
curved center back seam unique to your back curvature.
d. On the Jacket Side Back Panel, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges.
e. On the Center Front Contrast Band, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges.
f. On the Front Hemline Contrast Band, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges, except the bottom edge. This piece
will be cut lengthwise on the fold.
g. On the Back Neckline Contrast Band, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges, except the center back edge. This
piece will be cut on the fold.
h. On the Back Hemline Contrast Band, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges, except the bottom edge. This piece
will be cut lengthwise on the fold.
6. Pattern Pieces with Markings
GENERAL SEWING CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
1. Stabilizing
a. If using a loosely-woven fabric, or fabric that tends to ravel, stabilize all raw edges with narrow strips of interfacing. This
includes selvage trim, if you plan to use it.
b. Interface the outside pieces of the center front, neckline, and hem Contract Bands.
2. Jacket Body
a. With right sides together, stitch the Jacket Center Front Panel to the Jacket Side Front Panel at the princess seam lines.
b. With right sides together, stitch the Jacket Center Back Panel to the Jacket Side Back Panel at the princess seam lines.
c. With right sides together, stitch the Jacket Front to the Jacket Back at the shoulder seams.
d. With right sides together, stitch the Jacket Front to the Jacket Back at the Side Seams.
e. Press the seams open.
f. Finish any raw seam edges using your desired method.
g. With right sides together, stitch the trim to the center front, neckline, and hemline of the Jacket Body.
3. Sleeves
a. Stich the elbow dart.
b. With right sides together, stitch the Sleeve underarm seam.
c. With right sides together, insert the Sleeve into the Jacket body.
d. Press the seams open.
e. Finish any raw seam edges using your desired method.
4. Contrast Bands
a. With right sides together, stitch the Center Front Contrast Band to the Back Neck Contrast Band at the shoulder seams.
b. Install the separating zipper to the Center Front Contrast Band, ensuring that the center front neck points and center front
hemline line up perfectly.
4.b
c. With right sides together, stitch the Center Front Contrast Band Facing to the Center Front Contrast Band.
d. Understitch the facing.
e. Lay the Jacket Body on top of the Hemline Contrast Band and the Center Front Contrast Band, and mark the fold line of the
Center Front Contrast Band at the hemline as shown.
f. With right sides together, stitch the Center Front Contrast Band to the facing at the hemline as shown.
4.e 4.f
g. Turn the facing to the inside, and press.
h. Finish the raw edges of the Center Front Contrast Band using your desired method.
i. With right sides together, stitch the Front Hemline Contrast Band to the Back Hemline Contrast Band at the side seams.
TIP: Take your time to ensure the Hemline Contrast Band lines up perfectly with the Jacket Body at the side
seams, and that the seam line at the front will slightly underlap the center front trim.
j. With wrong sides together, fold the Hemline Contrast Band in half lengthwise and press, then refold with right sides
together.
k. Place the hemline edge of the Center Front Band inside the folded Hemline Contrast Band with the short raw edges even.
l. Mark the vertical seam line on the Hemline Contrast Band to line up with the marked seam line on the Center Front Band;
pin in place as shown.
m. Stitch the Hemline Contrast Band to the Center Front Contrast Band on the marked stitching line as shown.
n. Turn the Hemline Contrast Band right side out as shown, and press.
4.l 4.m 4.n
o. Finish the raw edges of the Hemline Contrast Band using your desired method.
p. On the right side of the Hemline Contrast Band, mark your seam lines. This will help you line up the Contrast Band to the
Jacket Body for stitching.
4.p
q. With the wrong side of the Jacket Body on top of the right side of the Contrast Band, carefully line up the Jacket trim seam
with the Contrast Band stitching line, then baste in place.
r. Confirm that the Contrast Band is evenly lined up all the way around, then topstitch to secure the Jacket Body to the
Contrast Band.

Unlined Go-To Jacket

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Available Formats

Unlined Go-To Jacket

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Copyright:

Available Formats

Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg.

Unlined Go-To Jacket

The inspiration for this jacket came from the following.

Longer Version Shorter Version

GENERAL SEWING CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

4.l 4.m 4.n

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