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CASE 6

TOMS Shoes: Expanding Its Successful


One For One Business Model ®

Margaret A. Peteraf Sean Zhang and Carry S. Resor


Tuck School of Business at Dartmouth Research Assistants, Dartmouth College

W
hile traveling in Argentina in 2006, Blake In 2011, he launched TOMS Eyewear to help provide
Mycoskie witnessed the hardships that prescription glasses and eye surgery to those in need.
children without shoes experienced and In 2014, he launched TOMS Roasting Co. as a way
became committed to making a difference. Rather to expand access to safe drinking water around the
than focusing on charity work, Mycoskie sought to world. By 2020, TOMS had enabled over 780,000
build an organization capable of sustainable, repeated sight restorations and had provided over 722,000
giving, where children would be guaranteed shoes weeks of safe water for communities without this
throughout their childhood. He established TOMS basic necessity. In response to the COVID-19 pan-
Shoes, with a unique business model known as “One demic, the company pledged to give one-third of their
for One”. For every pair of shoes TOMS sold, TOMS net profits toward funding mental health support,
would donate a pair to a child in need. By June 2020, handwashing, and medical supplies for those on
TOMS had given away nearly 100 ­million pairs of the frontlines of the crisis. For an overview of how
shoes in over 85 different countries.1 quickly TOMS grew, see Exhibit 1.
The business model was a success and TOMS
experienced consistent and rapid growth, despite
the global recession that began in 2009. By 2015,
COMPANY BACKGROUND
TOMS had matured into an organization with nearly While attending Southern Methodist University,
600 employees and almost $400 million in revenues. Blake Mycoskie founded the first of his six start-ups,
TOMS shoes could be found in several major retail a laundry service company that encompassed seven
stores such as Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, and colleges and staffed over 40 employees.2 Four start-
Urban Outfitters. ups and a short stint on The Amazing Race later,
Encouraged by this success and wanting to make Mycoskie found himself vacationing in Argentina
an even greater difference in the world, Mycoskie where he not only learned about the Alpargata shoe
started several new initiatives associated with the
TOMS brand and the One-for-One business model. Used by permission of Tuck School of Business at Dartmouth

EXHIBIT 1  TOMS’ Growth Since 2006


2020 2016 2014 2012 2010 2008 2006

Total Employees 750 650 550 320 72  33  4


Thousands of Pairs of Shoes Sold 95,000* 60,000* 10,000 2,700 1,000 110 10

*Estimated based on shoes donated.

Source: PrivCo, Private Company Financial Report, TOMS website; craft.co, toms-shoes company profile, accessed June 4, 2020.
C-60 PART 2  Cases in Crafting and Executing Strategy

originally used by local peasants in the 14th cen- industry was both stable and mature—one in which
tury, but also witnessed the extreme poverty in rural large and small companies competed on the basis
Argentina. of price, quality, and service. Competitive pressures
Determined to make a difference, Mycoskie came from foreign as well as domestic companies
believed that providing shoes could more directly and new entrants needed to fight for access to down-
impact the children in these rural communities than stream retailers.
delivering medicine or food. Aside from protect- Further, the cost of supplies was forecasted to
ing children’s feet from infections, parasites, and increase between 2017 and 2022. Materials and
diseases, shoes were often required for a complete wages constituted almost 80 percent of industry
school uniform. In addition, research had shown costs—clearly a sizable concern for competitors.
that shoes were found to significantly increase chil- Supply purchases included leather, rubber, plastic
dren’s self-confidence, help them develop into more compounds, foam, nylon, canvas, laces, etc. While
active community members, and lead them to stay in the price of leather rose steadily each year, the price
school. Thus, by ensuring access to shoes, Mycoskie of natural and synthetic rubber was also expected to
could effectively increase children’s access to edu- rise over the next five years. In addition, wages as a
cation and foster community activism, raising the share of revenue were expected to increase at a rate of
overall standard of living for people living in poor 5.5 percent over a five-year period, from 17.1 ­percent
Argentinian rural areas. in 2017 to an estimated 17.8 percent in 2022.3
Dedicated to his mission, Mycoskie purchased In order to thrive in the footwear manufacturing
250 pairs of Alpargatas and returned home to Los industry, firms needed to differentiate their products
Angeles, where he subsequently founded TOMS in a meaningful way. Selling good quality products
Shoes. He built the company on the promise of “One at a reasonable price was rarely enough; they needed
for One,” donating a pair of shoes for every pair sold. to target a niche market that desired a certain image.
With an initial investment of $300,000, Mycoskie’s Product innovation and advertising campaigns there-
business concept of social entrepreneurship was fore became the most successful competitive weap-
simple: sell both the shoe and the story behind it. ons. For example, Clarks adopted a sophisticated
Building on a simple slogan that effectively commu- design, appealing to a wealthier, more mature cus-
nicated his goal, Mycoskie championed his personal tomer base. Nike, adidas, and Skechers developed
experiences passionately and established deep and athletic footwear and aggressively marketed their
lasting relationships with customers. brands to reflect that image. Achieving economies of
Operating from his apartment with three interns scale, increasing technical efficiency, and developing
he found on Craigslist, Mycoskie quickly sold out a cost-effective distribution system were also essen-
his initial inventory and expanded considerably, tial elements for success.
selling 10,000 pairs of shoes by the end of his first Despite the presence of established incumbents,
year. With family and friends, Mycoskie ventured global footwear manufacturing was an attractive
back to Argentina, where they hand-delivered 10,000 industry to potential entrants based on the predic-
pairs of shoes to children in need. Because he fol- tion of increased demand and therefore sales reve-
lowed through on his mission statement, Mycoskie nue. Moreover, the industry offered incumbents one
was able to subsequently attract investors to support of the highest profit margins in the fashion industry.
his unique business model and expand his venture But because competitors were likely to open new
significantly. locations and expand their brands in order to dis-
In 2014, Bain Capital bought a 50 percent stake courage competition, new companies’ only option
in the company, hoping to cash in on the company’s was to attempt to undercut them on cost. Acquiring
success. capital equipment and machinery to manufacture
footwear on a large scale was expensive. Moreover,
INDUSTRY BACKGROUND potential entrants also needed to launch costly
large-scale marketing campaigns to promote brand
Even though Mycoskie’s vision for his company was awareness. Thus, successful incumbents were tradi-
a unique one, vying for a position in global footwear tionally able to maintain an overwhelming portion
manufacturing was a risky and difficult venture. The of the market.
CASE 6  TOMS Shoes: Expanding Its Successful One For One Business Model C-61

Building the TOMS Brand than the industry’s leading competitors (see Exhibit
2 for more information).
Due to its humble beginnings, TOMS struggled to
TOMS’ success with social media advertising
gain a foothold in the footwear industry. While com-
can be attributed to the story crafted and champi-
panies like Nike had utilized high-profile athletes like
oned by Mycoskie. Industry incumbents generally
Michael Jordan and Tiger Woods to establish brand
dedicated a substantial portion of revenue and effort
recognition, TOMS had relatively limited financial
to advertising since they were simply selling a prod-
resources and tried to appeal to a more socially con-
uct. TOMS, on the other hand, used its mission to
scious consumer. Luckily, potential buyers enjoyed a
ask customers to buy into a cause, limiting their need
rise in disposable income over time as the economy
to devote resources to brand-building. TOMS lets
recovered from the recession. As a result, demand
their charitable work and social media presence gen-
for high-quality footwear increased for affluent shop-
erate interest for them organically. This strategy also
pers, accompanied by a desire to act (and be seen
increased the likelihood that consumers would place
acting) charitably and responsibly.
repeat purchases and share the story behind their
While walking through the airport one day,
purchases with family and friends. TOMS’ customers
Mycoskie encountered a girl wearing TOMS shoes.
took pride in supporting a grassroots cause instead
Mycoskie recounts:
of a luxury footwear supplier and encouraged others
I asked her about her shoes, and she went on to tell
me this amazing story about TOMS and the model that to share in the rewarding act.
it uses and my personal story. I realized the importance
of having a story today is what really separates com-
panies. People don’t just wear our shoes, they tell our
A BUSINESS MODEL
story. That’s one of my favorite lessons that I learned DEDICATED TO SOCIALLY
early on.
Moving forward, TOMS focused more on selling
RESPONSIBLE BEHAVIOR
the story behind the shoe rather than product fea- Traditionally, the content of advertisements for many
tures or celebrity endorsements. Moreover, rather large apparel companies focused on the attractive
than relying primarily on mainstream advertising, aspects of the featured products. TOMS’ advertising,
TOMS emphasized a grassroots approach using on the other hand, showcased its charitable contribu-
social media and word-of-mouth. With over 4 ­million tions and the story of its founder Blake Mycoskie.
Facebook “Likes” and nearly 2 million Twitter While the CEOs of Nike, adidas, and Clarks rarely
“Followers” in 2020, TOMS’ social media presence appeared in their companies’ advertisements, TOMS
eclipsed that of its much larger rivals. Based on ran as many ads with its founder as it did without
2020 data, TOMS had fewer “Followers” and fewer him, emphasizing the inseparability of the TOMS
“Likes” than Skechers, Nike, and adidas. However, product from Mycoskie’s story. In all of his appear-
TOMS had more “Followers” and “Likes” per dol- ances, Mycoskie was dressed in casual and friendly
lar of revenue. So when taking company size into attire so that customers could easily relate to Blake
account, TOMS also had a greater media presence and his mission. This advertising method conveyed

EXHIBIT 2  TOMS’ Use of Social Media Compared to Selected Footwear Competitors


2019 Revenue Facebook “Likes” per Mil. of Twitter “Followers” per mil.
(Mil. of $) “Likes” $ in revenue “Followers” of $ in revenue

TOMS $  67.7 4,200,000 62,038 1,800,000 2,659


Skechers 185.2 6,100,000 32,937 47,800 258
adidas 597.3 37,000,000 61,945 946,700 1,585
Nike 4,053.8 34,000,000 8,387 4,600,000 1,135

Source: Author data from Facebook and Twitter May 2, 2018; revenue numbers obtained from Ecommercedb.com.
C-62 PART 2  Cases in Crafting and Executing Strategy

a small-company feel and encouraged consumers to molded to customers’ feet with wear. Because TOMS
connect personally with the TOMS brand. It also products were appealing and trendy yet also basic
worked to increase buyer patronage through differen- and comfortable, they were immune to changing
tiating the TOMS product from others. Consumers fashion trends and consistently attracted a variety of
were convinced that every time they purchased a pair consumers. (see Exhibit 3).
of TOMS, they became instruments of the compa- In addition to offering a high-quality product that
ny’s charitable work. people valued, TOMS was able to establish a positive
As a result (although statistical measures of repertoire with its customers through efficient distri-
repeating-buying and total product satisfaction bution. Maintaining an online shop helped TOMS
among TOMS’ customers were not publicly avail- save money on retail locations but also allowed it to
able), the volume of repeat purchases and buyer serve a wide geographic range. Further, the company
enthusiasm likely fueled TOMS’ success in a critical negotiated with well-known retailers like Nordstrom
way. One reviewer commented, “This is my third pair and Neiman Marcus to assist in distribution. Through
of TOMS and I absolutely love them!. . . I can’t wait thoughtful planning and structured coordination,
to buy more!”4 Another wrote, “Just got my 25th pair! TOMS limited operation costs and provided prompt
Love the color! They. . .are my all-time favorite shoe service for its customers.
for comfort, looks & durability. AND they are for a
great cause!! Gotta go pick out my next pair. . . .”5
Virtually all consumer reports on TOMS shoes Giving Partners
shared similar themes. Though not cheap, TOMS As it continued to grow, TOMS sought to improve
footwear was priced lower than rivals’ products, and its operational efficiency by teaming up with “Giving
customers overwhelmingly agreed that the value was Partners,” nonprofit organizations that helped to
worth the cost. Reviewers described TOMS as com- distribute the shoes that TOMS donated. By team-
fortable, true to size, lightweight, and versatile (“go ing up with Giving Partners, TOMS streamlined
with everything”). The shoes had “cute shapes and its charity operations by shifting many of its distri-
patterns” and were made of canvas and rubber that butional responsibilities to organizations that were

EXHIBIT 3   Representative Advertisement for TOMS Shoes Company

©John M. Heller/Getty Images


CASE 6  TOMS Shoes: Expanding Its Successful One For One Business Model C-63

often larger, more resourceful, and able to distribute joint ventures, TOMS also performed unannounced
TOMS shoes more efficiently. Moreover, these orga- audit reports that ensured shoes were distributed
nizations possessed more familiarity and experience according to the One for One model.
dealing with the communities that TOMS was inter-
ested in helping and could therefore better allocate Building a Relationship
shoes that suited the needs of children in the area. with Giving Partners
Giving Partners also provided feedback to help
TOMS improve upon its giving and distributional Having Giving Partners offered TOMS the valuable
efforts. opportunity to shift some of its philanthropic costs
Each Giving Partner also magnified the impact onto other parties. However, TOMS also proactively
of TOMS’ shoes by bundling their distribution with maintained strong relationships with their Giving
other charity work that the organization specialized Partners. Kelly Gibson, the program director of
in. For example, Partners in Health, a nonprofit orga- National Relief Charities (NRC), a Giving Partner
nization that spent almost $100 million in 2012 on and nonprofit organization dedicated to improv-
providing healthcare for the poor (more than TOMS’ ing the lives of Native Americans, highlighted
total revenue that year), dispersed thousands of the respect with which TOMS treated its Giving
shoes to schoolchildren in Rwanda and Malawi while Partners:
also screening them for malnutrition. Cooperative TOMS treats their Giving Partners (like us) and the
giving further strengthened the TOMS brand by recipients of their giveaway shoes (the Native kids in
association with well-known and highly regarded this case) like customers. We had a terrific service
Giving Partners. Complementary services expanded experience with TOMS. They were meticulous about
the scope of TOMS’ mission, enhanced the impact getting our shoe order just right. They also insist that
that each pair of TOMS had on a child’s life, and the children who receive shoes have a customer-type
increased the number of goodwill and business experience at distributions.
opportunities available to TOMS. From customizing Giving Partners’ orders to
In order to ensure quality of service and adher- helping pick up the tab for transportation and distri-
ence to its fundamental mission, TOMS maintained bution, TOMS treated its Giving Partners as valuable
five criteria for Giving Partners: customers and generated a sense of goodwill that
• Repeat Giving: Giving partners must be able to extended beyond its immediate One for One mission.
work with the same communities in multi-year By ensuring that their Giving Partners and recipients
commitments, regularly providing shoes to the of shoes were treated respectfully, TOMS developed
same children as they grow. a unique ability to sustain business relationships that
other for-profit organizations more concerned with
• High Impact: Shoes must aid Giving Partners
the financial bottom line did not.
with their existing goals in the areas of health and
education, providing children with opportunities
they would not have otherwise.
MAINTAINING A DEDICATION
• Considerate of Local Economy: Providing shoes
cannot have negative socioeconomic effects on TO CORPORATE SOCIAL
the communities where shoes are given. RESPONSIBILITY
• Large Volume Shipments: Giving Partners must
be able to accept large shipments of giving pairs. Although TOMS manufactured its products in
Argentina, China, and Ethiopia (countries which
• Health/Education Focused: Giving Partners must
have all been cited as areas with a high degree of
only give shoes in conjunction with health and
child and forced labor by the Bureau of International
education efforts.6
Labor Affairs), regular third-party factory audits
As of 2020, TOMS had built relationships with over and a Supplier Code of Conduct helped to ensure
100 Giving Partners, including Save the Children, compliance with fair labor standards.7 Audits were
U.S. Fund for UNICEF, and IMA World Health. In conducted on both an announced and unannounced
order to remain accountable to their mission in these basis while the Supplier Code of Conduct was
C-64 PART 2  Cases in Crafting and Executing Strategy

publicly posted in the local language of every work Environmental Sustainability


site. The Supplier Code of Conduct enforced stan-
Dedicated to minimizing its environmental impact,
dards such as minimum work age, requirement of
TOMS pursued a number of sustainable practices
voluntary employment, non-discrimination, maxi-
that included offering vegan shoes, incorporating
mum work week hours, and right to unionize. It
recycled bottles into its products, and printing with
also protected workers from physical, sexual, verbal,
soy ink. TOMS also used a blend of organic canvas
or psychological harassment in accordance with a
and post-consumer, recycled plastics to create shoes
country’s legally mandated standards. Workers were
that were both comfortable and durable. By utilizing
encouraged to report violations directly to TOMS,
natural hemp and organic cotton, TOMS eliminated
and suppliers found in violation of TOMS’ Supplier
pesticide and insecticide use that adversely affected
Code of Conduct faced termination.
the environment.
In addition to ensuring that suppliers met TOMS’
In addition, TOMS supported several environ-
ethical standards, TOMS also emphasized its own
mental organizations like Surfers Against Sewage, a
dedication to ethical behavior in a number of ways.
movement that raised awareness about excess sewage
TOMS was a member of the American Apparel and
discharge in the United Kingdom. Formally, TOMS
Footwear Association (AAFA) and was registered
was a member of the Textile Exchange, an organiza-
with the Fair Labor Association (FLA). Internally,
tion dedicated to textile sustainability and protect-
TOMS educated its own employees on human traf-
ing the environment. The company also participated
ficking and slavery prevention and partnered with
actively in the AAFA’s Environmental Responsibility
several organizations dedicated to raising awareness
Committee.
about such issues, including Hand of Hope.8

Giving Trips Creating the TOMS Workforce


Aside from material shoe contributions, TOMS When asked what makes a great employee, Mycoskie
also held a series of “Giving Trips” that supported blogged,
the broader notion of community service. Giving As TOMS has grown, we’ve continued to look for these
Trips were first-hand opportunities for employees of same traits in the interns and employees that we hire.
TOMS and selected TOMS customers to partake in Are you passionate? Can you creatively solve problems?
the delivery of TOMS shoes. These trips increased Can you be resourceful without resources? Do you have
the transparency of TOMS’ philanthropic efforts, the compassion to serve others? You can teach a new
further engaging customers and employees. They hire just about any skill . . . but you absolutely cannot
inspire creativity and passion in someone that doesn’t
generated greater social awareness as well, since par-
have it.9
ticipants on these trips often became more engaged
in local community service efforts at home. The company’s emphasis on creativity and pas-
From a business standpoint, Giving Trips also sion was part of the reason why TOMS relied so heav-
represented a marketing success. First, a large num- ily on interns and new hires rather than experienced
ber of participants were customers and journalists workers. By hiring younger, more inexperienced
unassociated with TOMS who circulated their stor- employees, TOMS was able to be more cost-­effective
ies online through social media upon their return. in terms of personnel. The company could also
Second, TOMS was able to motivate participants and recruit young and energetic individuals who were
candidates to become more involved in their mission more likely to think innovatively and out of the box.
by increasing public awareness. In 2013, instead of These employees were placed in specialized teams
internally selecting customers to participate on the under the leadership of strong, experienced manage-
Giving Trips, TOMS opted to hold an open voting rial talent. This human intellectual capital generated
process that encouraged candidates to reach out to a competitive advantage for the TOMS brand.
their known contacts and ask them to vote for their Together with these passionate individuals,
inclusion. This contest drew thousands of contestants Mycoskie strove to create a family-like work atmo-
and likely hundreds of thousands of voters, although sphere where openness and collaboration were cel-
the final vote tallies were not publicly released. ebrated. With his cubicle located in one of the most
CASE 6  TOMS Shoes: Expanding Its Successful One For One Business Model C-65

highly-trafficked areas of the office (right next to making TOMS Forbes’s 4th Most Inspiring Company
customer service), Mycoskie made a point to inter- in 2014. Overall, the culture allowed TOMS to recruit
act with his employees on a daily basis, in all-staff and retain high-quality employees invested in achiev-
meetings, and through weekly personal e-mails while ing its social mission.
traveling. Regarding his e-mails, Mycoskie reflected,
I’m a very open person, so I really tell the staff what
I’m struggling with and what I’m happy about. I tell TEN YEARS OF REMARKABLE
them what I think the future of TOMS is. I want them
to understand what I’m thinking. It’s like I’m writing to
GROWTH
a best friend.10 By 2016, global footwear manufacturing had devel-
This notion of “family” was further solidified oped into an industry worth nearly $240 billion.13
through company dinners, ski trips, and book clubs While TOMS remained a privately held company
where TOMS employees were encouraged to social- with limited financial data, the estimated growth rate
ize in informal settings. These casual opportunities of TOMS’ revenue was astounding. In the seven years
to interact with colleagues created a “balanced” after his company’s inception, Mycoskie was able to
work atmosphere where employees celebrated not turn his initial $300,000 investment into a company
only their own successes, but the successes of their with over $200 million in yearly revenues. As Exhibit 4
co-workers. shows, the average growth rate of TOMS on a yearly
Diversity and inclusion were also emphasized basis was 145 percent, even excluding its first major
at TOMS. For example, cultural traditions like the spike of 457 percent. During the same period, Nike
Chinese Lunar New Year were celebrated publicly experienced a growth rate of roughly 8.5 ­percent, with
on the TOMS’ company blog. Moreover, as TOMS a decline in revenues from 2009 to 2010.
began expanding and distributing globally, the com- The fact that TOMS was able to experience con-
pany increasingly sought to recruit a more diverse sistent growth despite financial turmoil post-2008
workforce by hiring multilingual individuals who illustrates the strength of the One for One Movement
were familiar with TOMS’ diverse customer base and to survive times of recession. Mycoskie attributed his
could communicate with their giving communities.11 success during the recession to two factors: (1) As
The emphasis that Mycoskie placed on each consumers became more conscious of their spend-
individual employee was one of the key reasons why ing during recessions, products like TOMS that gave
employees at TOMS often felt “lucky” to be part of to others actually became more appealing (accord-
the movement.12 Coupled with the fact that TOMS ing to Mycoskie); (2) The giving model that TOMS
employees knew their efforts fostered social justice, employed is not “priced in.” Rather than commit a
these “Agents of Change,” as they referred to them- percentage of profits or revenues to charity, Mycoskie
selves, were generally quite satisfied with their work, noted that TOMS simply gave away a pair for every

EXHIBIT 4 Revenue Comparison for TOMS Shoes and the Footwear Industry,
2006–2016
2016 2015 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006

TOMS (in Mils. of $s)


 Revenue $416 $390 $370.9 $285 $101.8 $46.9 $25.1 $8.4 $3.1 $1.2 $0.2
  Growth (%) 6.7% 5.1% 30.1% 180% 117% 86.9% 199% 171% 158.3% 500%
Industry (in Bil. of $s)
 Revenue $239.8 $229.4 $230.6 $221.0 $210.2 $208.1 $179.6 $162.4 $159.3 $145.8
  Growth (%) 4.5% − 0.5% 4.3% 5.1% 1.0% 15.9% 10.6% 1.9% 9.3% 0.0%

Source: PrivCo and “Global Footwear Manufacturing,” IBISWorld, April 18, 2016. http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/gl/industry/cur-
rentperformance.aspx?entid=500.
C-66 PART 2  Cases in Crafting and Executing Strategy

pair it sold. This way, socially-conscious consumers Through TOMS’ additional product launches of
knew exactly where their money was going without coffee and bags, the company has been able to expand
having to worry that TOMS would cut-back on its giving efforts to the global issues of clean water and
charity efforts in order to turn a profit.14 safe birth. With each pound of TOMS Roasting Co.
Coffee, TOMS gives a week’s supply of safe water—
Production at TOMS 140 liters—to a person in need. They have currently
given over 722,000 weeks of safe water. With the sale
Although TOMS manufactured shoes in Argentina,
of its bags, TOMS has supported safe birth services
Ethiopia, and China, only shoes made in China were
in parts of the world where there is dire need. This
brought to the retail market. Shoes made in Argentina
includes helping its Giving Partners with the vital
and Ethiopia were strictly used for donation pur-
materials and training necessary for a safe birth. In
poses. TOMS retailed its basic Alpargata shoes in the
2018, TOMS launched its Impact Grant program to
$50 price range, even though the cost of producing
fund short term projects with measurable goals per-
each pair was estimated at around $9.15 Estimates for
taining to global issues such as gun violence and men-
the costs of producing TOMS’ more expensive lines
tal health. By 2020, they had awarded $6.5 ­million in
of shoes were unknown, but they retailed for upwards
Impact Grants to 14 of their Giving Partners.
of $150.
In comparison, manufacturing the average pair
of Nike shoes in Indonesia cost around $20, and they A CHALLENGING FUTURE
were priced at around $70.16 Factoring in the giv-
In December 2019, the coronavirus now known as
ing aspect, TOMS seemed to have a slightly smaller
COVID-19 struck Wuhan, China, and swiftly spread
mark-up than companies like Nike, yet it still main-
around the world. Among the devastating effects of
tained considerable profit margins. More detailed
the pandemic were the recessionary economic con-
information on trends in TOMS’ production costs
sequences. The retail sector was especially hard hit
and practices is limited due to the private nature of
as stores closed, workers lost their jobs, and discre-
the company.
tionary spending plunged. For TOMS, this came at
a particularly bad time in their corporate history.
Expanding the Mission Sales had already started trending downward as the
In an effort to broaden its mission and product offer- digital revolution reshaped buying behavior and new
ings, TOMS began to expand both its consumer base competition entered the industry with appealing sto-
and charitable-giving product lines. For its custom- rytelling that rivaled TOMS’s. Moreover, the partner-
ers, TOMS started offering stylish wedges, ballet ship with Bain failed to bring about the growth that
flats, and even wedding apparel in an effort to reach was expected. Earnings dropped significantly in 2017
more customers and satisfy the special needs of cur- through 2019, leaving TOMS with a debt load that it
rent ones. For the children it sought to help, TOMS was unsustainable.
expanded past its basic black canvas shoe offerings Fortunately for TOMS, their creditors came to
to winter boots in order to help keep children’s feet the rescue just before the coronavirus outbreak, agree-
dry and warm during the winter months in cold cli- ing to take over the ownership of TOMS from Bain
mate countries. Capital and Mycoskie in exchange for restructuring
On another front, TOMS entered the eyewear the company’s debt.17 This move gave TOMS some
market in hopes of restoring vision to the 285 ­million necessary relief at a critical time. With the right stra-
blind or visually-impaired individuals around the tegic moves, TOMS might yet regain its strong posi-
world. For every pair of TOMS glasses sold, TOMS tion in the industry. But what are the right strategic
restored vision to one individual either through moves? Were TOMS’s problems the result of the more
donating prescription glasses or offering medical traditional and expensive marketing strategy that Bain
treatment for those suffering from cataracts and eye had advocated, as Mycoskie believed?18 Were they
infections. TOMS began by focusing its vision-related due to not enough diversification or too much unre-
efforts in Nepal but by 2020 TOMS had teamed up lated diversification, as TOMS entered businesses far
with 16 Giving Partners to help restore sight to nearly from their strength in footwear (such as coffee roast-
800,000 individuals in 14 countries. ing). Was TOMS’s One-for-One business model one
CASE 6  TOMS Shoes: Expanding Its Successful One For One Business Model C-67

that could continue to be utilized successfully in a trajectory of the COVID-19 pandemic present a chal-
variety of industries, or was it a model that depended lenge for retailers beyond the reach of even the most
upon the freshness of its story? Would the uncertain farsighted strategy-making? Only time would tell.

ENDNOTES
1 13
TOMS Shoes company website, April 23, ocft/tvpra.htm; TOMS website, June 2, 2013, “Global—Footwear,” Marketline: Advantage,
2018 www.toms.com/what-we-give-shoes. www.toms.com/corporate-responsibility. April 18, 2016, http://advantage.marketline.
2 8
Mycoskie, Blake, Web log post, The Hand of Hope, “Teaming Up with TOMS com/Product?pid=MLIP0948-0013.
14
Huffington Post, May 26, 2013, Shoes,” Joyce Meyer Ministries, June 2, 2013, Zimmerman, Mike. “The Business of Giving:
www.huffingtonpost.com/blake-mycoskie. www.studygs.net/citation/mla.htm. TOMS Shoes,” Success, June 2, 2013, http://
3 9
“Global Footwear Manufacturing,” IBISWorld. Mycoskie, Blake, “Blake Mycoskie’s Blog,” www.success.com/articles/852-the-business-
July 2017, http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/ Blogspot, June 2, 2013, http://blakemycoskie. of-giving-toms-shoes.
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gl/industry/industryoutlook.aspx?entid=500. blogspot.com/. Fortune, Brittney, “TOMS Shoes: Popular
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Post by “Alexandria,” TOMS website, Schweitzer, Tamara, “The Way I Work: Model with Drawbacks,” The Falcon, June
June 2, 2013, www.toms.com/ Blake Mycoskie of TOMS Shoes,” Inc. June 2, 2013, http://www.thefalcononline.com/
red-canvas-classics-shoes-1. 2, 2013. www.inc.com/magazine/20100601/ article.php?id=159.
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January 13, 2014, www.toms.com/women/ shoes.html. Film.
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bright-blue-womens-canvas-classics. TOMS Jobs website, June 2, 2013, https://www.cnbc.com/2019/12/30/toms-
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TOMS website, June 2, 2013, www.toms www.toms.com/jobs/l. shoes-creditors-to-take-over-the-company.
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.com/our-movement-giving-partners. Daniela, “Together We Travel,” TOMS html
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Trafficking Victims Protection Reauthorization Company Blog, June 3, 2013, http:// https://footwearnews.com/2019/business/
Act, United States Department of Labor, blog.toms.com/post/36075725601/ retail/toms-blake-mycoskie-interview-
June 2, 2013, www.dol.gov/ilab/programs/ together-we-travel. business-sales-mission-1202764082/

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