The American Queen rules the mighty The nostalgic allure of the big wheel that keeps

on turnin’ was what drew us to the experience.

“We have gorgeous rivers in this country, and steam-
boating is a great way to learn more about them and
With its fanciful
details, the
American Queen
Mississippi and other waterways on journeys However, steamboat travel has evolved since the
19th century. The American Queen, a luxury leisure
the once-thriving towns nearby.”
Peggy and her husband, Gene, are now closing in
looks like it
cruised out of
through the nation’s heartland vessel built in 1995, augments its iconic steam-
powered red paddle wheel with diesel-electric pro-
on more than 30 steamboat journeys—all but one
aboard the American Queen. Newbies at the other
the Victorian
era. The
steam calliope
BY AMY LYNCH pellers. And while modern amenities abound, the end of the spectrum, my son and I embarked on our
COURTESY AMERICAN QUEEN VOYAGES (2)

boat’s period-authentic details and exemplary ser-
f you’re traveling on a Mississippi River cruise, you’re pretty much vice create a sense of stepping back in time to a gen-
guaranteed to hear “Proud Mary” at least half a dozen times tler era when bespoke boats plied the waterways,
throughout the trip. In this context, it’s practically an anthem. By transporting passengers in high style.
the end of our week aboard the American Queen, my son and I found “We first boarded the American Queen in 1997,
ourselves humming the melody as it popped unbidden into our going from New Orleans to Baton Rouge and back,
heads at random moments, anchoring a personal soundtrack for and I fell in love with it immediately,” said frequent
the whole adventure. passenger Peggy Anderson from New Hampshire.
(pictured far
inaugural adventure in Memphis last year following left) adds to the
a night at the storied Peabody Memphis hotel and a soundtrack of a
bus tour of the city’s musical landmarks. riverboat cruise.
We were in for a treat. It was a week’s worth of
luxurious appointments, appealing towns, and cap-
tivating history lessons on our route along portions
of the Mississippi, Ohio, and Cumberland rivers to
our final destination in Nashville.

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 exactly my long-haired, hard-rocking son’s taste.
But he was a good sport and enjoyed being able to
play the pianos stationed around the boat. We both
tested out the steam calliope on the top deck, each
earning an official Vox Calliopus certificate for our
efforts. We also played a nightly checkers game amid
the hunting-lodge decor of the Gentlemen’s Card
Room, and we managed to contribute a few pieces
to jigsaw puzzles in progress in the Ladies’ Parlor
across the hall.

Working on puzzles was relaxing, but a range of port

excursions proved to be a little livelier. At our first
stop, in southwest Tennessee, a bus took us from
Ashport Landing on the Chickasaw Bluffs to Fort
Pillow State Historic Park. We gazed upon the recon-
structed inner portion of a fort that Confederate
troops originally built in 1861. Well-preserved breast-
works and a museum relate more Civil War history.
At any of the stops, guests are free to borrow
bicycles—a tempting proposition had summer tem-
peratures not been upwards of 100 degrees with
sweltering humidity during our trip.
At some docks, hop-on, hop-off vehicles run on a
loop, convenient for exploring towns like southeast
Missouri’s New Madrid, which sits atop a seismic
zone responsible for 3 massive earthquakes and
thousands of aftershocks in late 1811 and early 1812.
The New Madrid Historical Museum chronicles the
natural disaster. And you can catch the trolley in
enchanting Paducah, Kentucky, to marvel at its cre-
ative fiber-arts culture. Don’t miss the National Quilt
Museum and its eye-opening array of vibrant hand-
made works.
Discover more Civil War history in Dover,
Tennessee, at Fort Donelson National Battlefield,
which features original earthworks and artillery

Clockwise from choices and sit-down meal service in the gorgeous

top left: The
Grand Staircase, Looking downright majestic at port, the American
the Mark Twain Queen made a striking first impression with soaring
Gallery, and smokestacks and fanciful architecture that resem-
the J.M. White bles a wedding cake. Refurbished in 2017, she’s a
Dining Room
showcase true Southern belle, or as Captain Greg Brown fondly
luxurious called her, “a floating mansion.”
appointments. “The history of the American Queen is rich and
Upper decks goes back decades, making it a special boat to work
afford great
places to take in on,” he said. “As you walk through the vessel, there
the sunrise. are remnants of history in the artifacts and decor
alone. [Spanning 418 feet, it’s] also the largest steam-
boat in the world.”
The chart room, the Ladies’ Parlor, the decks, the
Mark Twain Gallery—I couldn’t help but mentally
compare our character-rich environs to the opu-
lence of the Titanic as we took an introductory lap
around the boat. (No icebergs on the Mississippi—
J.M. White Dining Room. Southern flavors high-
lighted the chef-driven menus—think jambalaya,
bourbon-glazed pork loin, shrimp and grits, beef
tips over rice, and bread pudding. My budding young
gourmet loaded up mostly on the meat-and-potato
dishes, while I branched into seafood and pasta offer-
ings. Between meals, we could help ourselves to fresh
popcorn, coffee, and soft serve anytime.
Although we were told that kids do cruise, my
14-year-old was easily the youngest passenger Mount Mora
Cemetery
aboard, and I was initially slightly nervous about
keeping him entertained. (Be forewarned—the
Wi-Fi is spotty at best.) Thankfully, between the
pool, scheduled activities, and live music, we dis-
covered numerous diversions to occupy our time.
We learned interesting details about our route’s
waterways through daily Riverlorian chats and
COURTESY AMERICAN QUEEN VOYAGES (4)

what a relief!) We easily settled into our Southern were fascinated by a morning passage through a
ILLUSTRATION BY VIRGINIA VALLELY

estate–style stateroom, nicely appointed with Kentucky lock.

twin beds, French doors, and a full modern bath-
room. The boat’s smooth motion lulled us to sleep
each night.
Food is traditionally a main attraction on any
cruise, and the American Queen is no exception.
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner offered delicious buffet
Shipboard entertainment ranged from flashy
ter
cabaret-style productions in the Grand Saloon and Missouri Thea
St. Joseph, Missouri is one of America’s
S
lounge piano performances to Nite Owl jam ses- best-kept secrets for majestic architecture, historic
sions in the Engine Room bar. Song selections were museums, as well as public and performance arts in beautiful settings.
mostly geared toward audiences of a certain age, Explore, experience, and enjoy. Find your Mo’Jo at StJoMo.com!
heavy on familiar classics and old standards—not

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A horse-drawn batteries overlooking the Cumberland River. Sample
trolley offers a craft beer, wine, and spirits in Clarksville, Tennessee.
tour in the port
“The wonderful people living in these small
stop of Paducah,
Kentucky. towns are so happy that the boat stops there,” fellow
cruiser Anderson said. “[On different cruises,] I’ve
met a female jewelry maker with a small stand on
a corner; a priest in a Catholic church where we’d
gone for Mass and a member of his congregation
who offered to take my husband and me sightsee-
ing; and a notary who took care of some last-minute
paperwork for us and refused payment.”
Opportunities to visit friendly towns and admire
beautiful riverscapes are among the many perks
that keep Captain Brown happily manning his post.
“Each turn has amazing scenery you can’t find
anywhere else,” he said. “Between [that] and the
charming towns that we dock in, the rivers have
much to offer and are truly unique. I’ve worked on
all kinds of vessels around the globe, but the river
is home to me.”
Proud Mary, keep on burnin’.
AMY LYNCH is a freelance writer from Indianapolis.

Not ready to go home at the end of your cruise? Music

City sings a siren song all its own that’s worth an extra
day or 2 of exploration. American Queen Voyages offers a
post-trip option that includes a stay at Nashville’s Gaylord
Opryland Resort, but it’s also easy to tailor an itinerary to
your own tastes and interests.
Nashville was built on the back of country music, and
no trip is complete without a visit to the Country Music
Hall of Fame and Museum, a star-studded collection of Foodies definitely don’t go hungry here. Nashville

displays and memorabilia. Also plan to tour the iconic
Ryman Auditorium, one of the world’s top performance
halls with a rich history dating back 130 years. Across the
street, the National Museum of African American Music
takes visitors on an immersive journey through the influ-
ence of Black artists across various musical genres.
If time permits, catch a show at the legendary Grand Ole
Opry and take a backstage tour.
Another must is to wander down Lower Broadway,
where you can grab a drink at themed bars owned by
big-name celebrities, shop for souvenirs, and hear live
tunes wafting out of nearly every open door. For a more
genteel experience, head to the Listening Room Café
(pictured) on Mondays to catch the Song Suffragettes,
an ever-changing lineup of female singer-songwriters, all
eager to perform before appreciative crowds.
FROM TOP: DOMONABIKEUSA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY NASHVILLE CONVENTION & VISITORS CORP
serves up something to satisfy any craving, from old-
school “meat and 3” lunches at Arnold’s Country Kitchen
to Italian fare at the AAA Four Diamond Yolan inside the
artful Joseph, a Luxury Collection Hotel. Brimming with
a diverse selection of more than 30 vendors, Assembly
Food Hall is perfect if you can’t make up your mind. (Tip:
The quintessential Nashville hot chicken sandwich is
always a solid choice, and Prince’s Hot Chicken at the
food hall won’t disappoint.)
Wrap up your quick Nashville tour by visiting Belle
Meade Historic Site & Winery, where guides share stories
about the mansion, Southern culinary traditions, and the
slaves who helped build the property and labored there
afterward. And before you head home, breathe in plenty
of fresh air at Cheekwood Estate & Gardens, a 55-acre
botanical garden and art museum.

Cruise rates for a 7-night Memphis-to-Nashville itinerary start at $2,599 per person, double occupancy.

If you go Your AAA travel advisor can provide trip-planning information. Visit a branch, call (866) 222-7587, or go
to AAA.com/travel. Also, note that historic low-water conditions on the Mississippi River forced cruise
lines to modify some late-2022 itineraries.

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