Threads

UNIT 8 THREADS
Structure
8.1 Introduction
Objectives

8.2 Property of Threads

8.3 Twist of Threads
8.4 Thread Size
8.5 Thread Identification
8.6 Thread Quality Control
8.7 Summary
8.8 Key Words

8.1 INTRODUCTION
A wide range and variety of threads are available for the FOOTWEAR industry in the
market. It is very important for the closing room to have the right thread for proper stitch
formation. The main factors to be kept in mind are:
(i) Leather or its equivalent used in the footwear industry is harsh and strong as
compared to textiles, so we need strong threads to penetrate two or more
layers of leathers.
(ii) Footwear is subject to a lot of flexing in wear; therefore the thread must be
able to take the strain.
(iii) Footwear is exposed to elements of nature, e.g. water, heat, snow, etc. that it
must be able to withstand without giving way.
(iv) Should be able to withstand the wear and tear of everyday life.
(v) Footwear is exposed to working environment.
(vi) Footwear must last.
Therefore, above factors must be considered, while selecting the threads for footwear.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• identify natural and synthetic threads,
• know construction of thread, and
• select the thread for different seams.

8.2 PROPERTY OF THREADS

Following qualities of the thread are required for the footwear manufacturing :
(i) High Strength : Thread should be strong enough so as to be able to
penetrate two or more layers of leather without breaking.
(ii) Stretchness : Thread should be stretchable enough to withstand all shoe
making operations without breaking but should not stretch too easily.
(iii) Elasticity : Thread should be elastic enough so that the seam can recover
well after stretching and not become loose in wear.
(iv) No shrinkage/expansion when exposed to heat or wet.
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Materials (v) High flexibility and resistance to flex cracking.
(vi) Uniform thickness to avoid snagging during stitching.
(vii) Non- slip property to prevent run back.
(viii) Good loop formation property, i.e. properly twisted to avoid missed stitches.
(ix) Good abrasion resistance to withstand rubbing in wear and high speed
stitching.
(x) Resistance to needle heat.
(xi) Resistance to bacteria.
(xii) Resistance to damage from sunlight.
(xiii) Colour fastness.
(xiv) Ability to take dyes.
(xv) Retain a good appearance in finished seam.
(xvi) Choosing the right thread is very important for thread performance during
sewing, because it takes approximately 40 times of flexing for a piece of
thread to form a stitch. The choice depends upon the type of :
(a) Seam,
(b) Material,
(c) Needle, and
(d) Purpose.

8.3 TWIST OF THREADS

Threads are made from fibers and fibers used to make industrial sewing threads come
from two major sources: fibers could be man-made or natural. The ones used commonly
in shoemaking are :
Natural Fibers
Come from plants and animals and are spun or twisted into yarns. Cotton is the
most common natural fiber used to make thread. Other natural fibers include silk,
wool, jute, ramie, hemp, and linen. Natural fibers are generally not as uniform as
synthetic fibers and are affected by climatic changes.
Synthetic Fibers
These are made from various chemicals or regenerated from cellulose such as
wood pulp and cotton waste. We select our synthetic fibers based on their sewing
ability characteristics, seam performance, ease of dying, colorfastness, and pricing.
Examples are : polyester, nylon, etc.
Fibers are twisted to make fine yarns/filaments. This twist produces strength and
flexibility – the essentials of a sewing thread. This twist, which consolidates the fibers, is
the first/singling twist.
This twist is balanced by a reverse twist when two or more yarns are joined together to
form a thread. This is important as otherwise the individual plies would separate while
sewing.
This reverse twist could be either clockwise or anti-clockwise.
Clockwise twist produces a Z-twist and an anticlockwise twist produces S-twist. The
twist of the thread is known by the finishing/final twist.

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 Threads

Figure 8.1 : Twisting

Closing room, mostly Z-twist thread is used.

• Twist is defined in terms of the number of twists inserted per cm. If the twist
is too much, the thread gets lively and if too less the yarns will open up and
fray.
• Which thread to use depends upon the movement of the hook. In the closing
room, all machines have hooks with clockwise movement, so a thread with a
clockwise twist (Z) reaches equilibrium and resists further twisting while S-
twist thread if used will untwist and break.
• Threads are mainly produced in 2 or 3, sometimes 4 ply, i.e., 2, 3 or 4 yarns
are twisted to form 2, 3 or 4 ply thread.
• For heavier threads, these twisted threads are further twisted to form cords
but the important point to remember is that the twist directions reverses
every time. So, 3 S twist yarns will be Z-twisted to form a 3-ply Z-twisted
thread.
• The level of the twist would depend upon the fiber.
SAQ 1
(a) Why elasticity is required in threads?
(b) Name natural fibers and synthetic fibers thread.
(c) Why twist is required in the thread?
(d) Which thread twist is used in upper stitching machines mostly?

8.4 THREAD SIZE

Normally threads found in closing room are
• 60/2, this is fine thread in which 60 is thread size and 2 is number of ply.
• 40/3, this is thicker thread than 60 number thread in which 40 is thread size
and 3 is number of ply.
• 20/3 this is thickest thread in which 20 is thread size and 3 is number of ply.
Sometimes number of ply may be more than 3.

8.5 THREAD IDENTIFICATION

The natural fibre thread will produce a flame and burn slow if exposed to a flame. The
synthetic thread, if exposed to flame, will produce smoke with little flame, the end tends
to form a small ball/knot and it will burn quickly.
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Materials The direction of twist can be identified by holding a thread between the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand and with the thumb and forefinger of right hand, twist the
thread towards you. If the thread loosens or unwinds, the thread will be “S” twist if the
thread tightens it will be “Z” twist.
SAQ 2
(a) How you will identify twist of threads?
(b) How many plies have 40, 60 number thread?
(c) How you will identify thread fibres?

8.6 THREAD QUALITY CONTROL

To produce uniform, strong, dyed and lubricated thread of different thicknesses is a long
process which requires continuous quality control checks, which are :
• Yarn evenness.
• Yarn strength and sizing.
• Twist levels and regularity.
• Plied thread strength and elongation.
• Shade matching.
• Lubrication.
• Finished appearance.
Checklist for Ensuring against Thread Failure
Continuous and persistent breaking of thread does not always mean that the thread
is faulty. It can be due to many other reasons. Following factors must be taken into
consideration :
• The thread stand must be seated centrally to the guide allowing a smooth
pull of thread.
• The thread packaging must be tight and the spool should not be like the
domestic m/c thread spool, otherwise the thread will get caught and break.
• The tensions discs and check spring must be free from burrs or dirt.
• All the parts involved in the complete passage of the thread must be free
from burrs.
• The needle must be correctly inserted (clearance cut facing the hook).
• The needle and thread must be matching, i.e., the thread size must be in
relation to the needle size.
• The needle must not be damaged or bend.
If, after checking, thread breaking still persists, then the following can be tried :
• Lubricate the top thread via a pad between the take up lever and the needle
bar. (The lubricant must be silicon based).
• Use a one size larger needle.
• Reduce the stitching speed especially on heavy/difficult materials.
If all above fail, then the thread or material, any one or both, may be faulty and
they should be tested.
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 Threads
8.7 SUMMARY
In this unit, you have learned about qualities and types of threads required for stitching
upper.
• The Z-twist thread is used in stitching uppers because sewing machinery in
closing room produces clockwise direction in hook assembly.
• Cotton threads have high heat resistance but poor abrasion resistance than
synthetic threads.

8.8 KEY WORDS

Elasticity : Property of the material to regain its shape after
being deformed.
Abrasion : To rub or wearing off.
Yarn : Any spun fiber.
Fastness : The ability of dye to maintain its colour.
Coarser : Thick.
Thread Cop : Thread spool.
Ply : Number of yarns twisted or bonded to make the
thread.
Tex : Weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread.

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