Chapter 14 (1870-1900)

1. Art Nouveau - Hope Vander Meiden

Art Nouveau was an artistic design movement that emerged in the late 19th century,
around the 1870’s, and continued until the outbreak of World War 1. It originated in
France then quickly spread throughout Europe and to other parts of the world. Art
Nouveau was made up of flowers, leaves and other plant forms. The term “Art
Nouveau” is French for “New Art”. It was new art and rejected different styles. This form
of art introduced curved lines, asymmetry and the use of new materials like iron, glass
and ceramics. This is an expression of new creativity. This form of art influenced many
new modern forms of art. 

https://www.britannica.com/art/Art-Nouveau

https://www.riseart.com/guide/2417/what-is-art-nouveau

2. Aesthetic Dress/Movement: Brianne & Sam

The aesthetic dress was a dress made in response to the tightly fitted dresses. The
fashion movement is thought to start in the 1850s in Britain and then traveled to
America. This movement was a rejection of the structure and trim of the Victorian era. It
focuses on the simple silhouette with beautiful and soft fabric. One well known
participant of the movement was Oscar Wilde, who inspired many satirical comics
toward the movement from magazines of the time.
Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artistic_Dress 
https://mhctc.missouri.edu/exhibitions/arts-and-crafts-design-re-forms/reform-and-
aesthetic-dress/ 
https://costumesociety.org.uk/blog/post/costume-in-art-artistic-dress 
3. Bicycling Costume- Emily Prueitt

Bicycling outfits are how the name describes them you wear them when you go
cycling. Men’s cycling costumes consisted of a military looking jacket, tight knee
breeches, and a cap. You’ll notice that fashion follows significant historical events
like when women gained the right to vote their clothing became more “liberating”.
With the cycling outfit women wore slightly shorter dresses or sometimes even
baggy pants.
Source 1- https://www.cyclinguk.org/womensfashion1870s 
Source 2- http://www.sheilahanlon.com/?p=2098 
Source 3- https://cyclehistory.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/women-on-the-move-
cycling-and-the-rational-dress-movement/ 

4. Bust Bodice Ruby Alder, Mads Wilkins

 5.
The Bust Bodice was a “bust improver” or enhancer. They were used to support
and shape the bust, while creating the ideal figure. It was a precursor to the
modern bra. They were constructed from lightweight cotton or silk, often
decordated with lace or ribbon. Structured boning was added to support the
chest. They were meant to be worn over the chemise and corset, but under the
dress or blouse. 
https://redthreaded.com/blogs/redthreaded/what-the-heck-is-a-bust-bodice
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O318137/bust-bodice-unknown/ 
https://kentstateuniversitymuseum.wordpress.com/2018/11/20/bust-enhancement/ 
https://underpinningsmuseum.com/museum-collections/aertex-elastic-bust-bodice/
 6. Bust Improver-Kyla Pratt

A bust improver, also called a bust bodice, was basically the 1900’s version of a bra.
They were created as corsets began to be made to sit lower on the body. Their purpose
was to create the ideal figure and shape/support the bust. Usually the bust bodices
were made with lightweight cotton or silk and boning to support the chest. They were
decorated with lace and ribbons and could be used with corset covers, but were worn
over the corset. There were lots of different styles too. Some were strapless, wrapped
around the body or laced/tied in the back. Eventually the brassiere was created and that
was meant to smooth and compress.
Sources: https://redthreaded.com/blogs/redthreaded/what-the-heck-is-a-bust-bodice 
https://mediakron.bc.edu/fashiondecor/underwear-bust-improver-1910 
https://ameliaseamstress.wordpress.com/2017/08/05/making-edwardian-bust-
improvers/ 
7. Camisole: Sam Carter

Summary: Modernly used as outer and innerwear, the camisole was originally used as
an undergarment. Its creation is attributed to being the solution for the chemise; a
garment that hid the corset but was unnecessary added weight. Being made out of light
fabrics like cotton, silk, and satin, the camisole was a much lighter and sensible option
when trying to remain slim while also covering the boning lines of the corset.  
Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camisole 
https://ezinearticles.com/?The-History-of-Camisoles&id=3617008 
https://www.sewhistorically.com/edwardian-lace-camisole/ 
9. Combination (Undergarment)- Karlie Brown and Kyla Pratt

The combination was the chemise and drawers put together into one garment. They
were created to have less bulk than separate garments. There are a lot of different uses
for the combinations. Some were used for corset covers and a petticoat, a chemise or
pantaloons. As the Edwardian era came the designs started becoming frillier and
women began taking more pride in their undergarments. The waist was usually
gathered and tied and it was often made of wool knit, soft flannel, or calico.
Sources: https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/10/combination-undergarments.html 
https://recollections.biz/blog/victorian-and-edwardian-combination-garments/ 
Watch 
10. Cuirass Bodice: Jillian Hohnholz

The Cuirass Bodice was popular during the 1870s - 1880s. This bodice was
boned and very long compared to earlier bodices. The name Cuirass suggests armor,
so this bodice is made with that in mind to give the appearance of armor. A defining
feature of the Cuirass bodice was the extension of the bodice below the natural
waistline. The Cuirass bodice would also often go even below the hip line, not just the
waistline.
Sources: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/cuirass-bodice/ ,
https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/20/fashion-moments-cuirasse-bodice/ ,
https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv460-1885-cuirass-bodice/ 

11. Deerstalker Cap - Michaela Facuri

The deerstalker is a type of cap that is typically worn in rural areas and during hunting.
This cap was favored by deer hunters and other sportsmen. This cap was typically worn
with Norfolk jackets and knickerbockers, which was considered the essential hunting
ensemble. Because the deerstalker cap was distinguished by its front and back visors, it
was also called a “fore and aft”. There are also large exterior ear flaps that had the
option of being tied at the top of the head or around the chin to cover the ears for
warmth. This cap is usually made with light or heavy wool tweed, but can also be made
with suede, white cotton duck or even denim. The deerstalker cap was made famous
through Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes stories illustrations. Because of these
illustrations, this cap became a recognized symbol of Holmes and stereotypical
headwear for detectives. 

Sources: 
Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora & Keith Eubank (p. 403)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deerstalker 
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-19th-
Century/Deerstalker-Cap.html 

12. Dinner Jacket Annie and Emily

Originally, the dinner jacket was a very formal jacket – the men's version of an evening
gown. It had long coattails. As time went on, it evolved into what is now a tuxedo jacket.
The original dinner jacket is pictured right, and the later version is pictured left. It was
unacceptable for men to be out and about in the evening without a dinner jacket. During
that time period, everyone dressed up for dinner and other evening activities. Men of
any status would always dress up in their dinner jacket for the evening.
Source 1-https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/black-tie-tuxedo-
history/dinner-jacket-debut/ 
Source 2- https://www.finetuxedos.com/pages/mid-late-victorian-era-1850-1901-birth-of-
tuxedo-jacket 
Source 3- Survey of Historic Costume.
13. Fedora: Sarah Smith
 Fedoras have soft brims and intended crowns. They are derived supposedly from
bowler hats. It was worn starting in 1891. Dubbed by many as the 20th-Century’s
most popular hat. Though the fedora has historically been a symbol of
“masculinity,” the origin of the fedora hat is far more unisex than most people
realize. The height of the fedora’s popularity was from the mid-1920s which is
why it is often associated with Prohibition and gangsters. Noir films popularized
the hats even more.
Source: https://costumes.org/tag/1890s/
https://bellissimohats.com/blogs/resources/history-of-the-fedora-hat?
utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=17375106177&utm_co
ntent=&utm_term=&gadid=&gclid=CjwKCAiA9NGfBhBvEiwAq5vSy89gIt3drbY15f
Z7D9FYtkdcJkOmlM8aXnEx5RXHtDvlVnEz1-lu2hoCr7sQAvD_BwE
https://bernardhats.com/all-about-hats/history-fedora/

14. Gay Nineties - what was it?: Michaela Facuri & Allie Stoddard
This term was believed to have originated with Richard V. Cutler’s Life magazine
drawings, which created a more nostalgic view of the 1890s. Here, the term “gay” refers
to a happier, simpler time. What is odd about this is that the 1890s was actually still a
complicated time, and was not as simple and happy as this term implies. Mostly, this
term acts as though everyone in the time period was a rich Gibson girl or Oscar Wilde,
rather than focusing on the downsides. Perhaps it was because this was the last few
years before world wars, so in hindsight, it felt more safe, happy, and gay.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gay_Nineties#:~:text=The%20Gay%20Nineties%20is
%20an,the%20decade%20of%20the%201890s.
https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/magazine/1977/12/18/1890-1899/
eac03653-58b0-41b5-992a-c2b2a8076492/
https://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheGayNineties 

15. Gibson Girl: Esther Wambo & Celesta Graham

 The Gibson Girl was the vision of what a woman should be like in the 1890’s and
early 1900 years. Often portrayed as being slender, with a full feminine shape,
she was the symbol of beauty and physical attractiveness. Often thought to be a
member of upper middle class society, she was envisioned as being
independent, educated, and involved in the public. The Gibson girl became the
influencing icon of the women, being illustrated in many posters, pictures, and
drawings. 

Sources:
*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gibson_Girl
*https://www.loc.gov/exhibits/gibson-girls-america/the-gibson-girl-as-the-new-
woman.html
*Survey of Historical Costume, Fifth Edition 

Homburg Hat: Jillian Hohnholz, Sarah Smith

Summary: The Homburg hat was originally made popular by Edward VII. It was
supposed to have been invented in the city of Bad Homburg, located in Germany. It is
said that the Homburg hat may have been inspired by the German hunting hat that
Edward VII loved. The homburg hat looks very similar to the fedora hat, but seems to be
higher or taller in the well. The brim seems to be slightly wider as well.
Sources: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/homburg-hat-history-style/ , 
https://historyonyourhead.com/felt-hats-3-the-homburg/ , 
https://sartorialnotes.com/2014/02/06/the-homburg-felt-hat/

16. Leg-O-Mutton Sleeves- Karlie Brown

The Leg-o-mutton sleeves were the most popular sleeves of the 1800s. They were
tapered at the wrist and puffed up at the shoulders. The sleeves were on party dresses
as well as for a more casual occasion. It is also known as the gigot sleeve. It was not
gender specific. Many mens and womens garments had these types of sleeves. It
originated in Spain, but was then taken by the French. It made its first appearance in
1820 and quickly took over the fashion world. 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/leg-of-mutton-sleeves/ 
https://genealogylady.net/2015/07/12/fashion-moments-leg-o-mutton-sleeves/ 
The textbook
21. Princess Polonaise - annie diviney
A polonaise is a train bunched into swags. It was popular in the bustle period. It first
came about when women were trying to find a way to raise their overskirts so they
wouldn’t get mucked up in the streets. So originally functional, it soon became very
fashionable. The bustle polonaise was a nod to the early polonaise dresses of the 18th
century of the rococo period. The bustle polonaise was the height of fashion
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polonaise_%28clothing%29 
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/polonaise/ 
https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/01/polonaise-bodice.html 
25. Shirtwaist Blouse-Mads Wilkins

A shirtwaist was the name for blouses during the nineties. These shirts were
usually tailored to look like a man’s shirt and usually had leg-of-mutton sleeves.
They were originally modeled for men. They were popular for being simple and
ready-to-wear. These blouses gave women more fashion options and made
fashion more accessible to more people. These shirts had ribbon, laces, and
 other embellishments added later as time went on, or people could wear them
simply. 
Survey of Historic Costume p. 399
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/triangle-fire-what-
shirtwaist/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/shirtwaist/

28. Tea Gown; Brianne Heer

A tea dress was a dress for woman for informal entertaining at the home. They were not
appropriate to wear around town and where only used for the home. It was mainly used
for midday wear, but other variations where made for evening. A daytime dress had a
high neckline wile a evening had a lower neckline. They where easy to put on with out
the help of a maid.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea_gown
https://recollections.biz/blog/tea-gown-bridging-victorian-edwardian-fashion/
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158839
30. Union Suit- sabrina walmer

a.
b. Long underwear garment that was a typical one piece. Often men used
the most during the 19th and early 20th century. Came to be known as
long johns. Thy helped keep an individual warm.They were originally
designed for women but men kind of took them over.First union suit
patented in 1868. They were aslo often made of flannel. Mens typuically
came with long sleeves while womens ranged form sleeveless, ⅜, to long
sleeve, union suits.
c. https://ourgirlhistory.wordpress.com/2020/02/08/pilgrim-princess-or-a-
union-suit-for-a-mill-girl/
d. https://www.histclo.com/style/under/gar/union/ug-union.html