COSMETICS: HISTORY AND CHEMISTRY

Chemistry is a creative, an analytical and a logical science. We all have the pleasure on a daily basis
in our lives to enjoy the fruits of chemical inventions, from the delicious food we eat to the clothes we
wear. Chemists around the world work on a daily basis to manufacture, to the highest standards, metallic
paint for cars, coatings for compact discs as well as the latest fragrance of perfume. Research and
development is one of the first steps to bring a product to the market place. Research is done in the
chemistry departments of universities and in the research units of large companies. In this module, we will
consider the chemistry involved in the cosmetics business, the manufacture of skin, nail and hair care and
other beauty products. The beauty business worldwide is worth a fortune, young people are enjoying the
products that help with their personal grooming, help to develop their self-esteem and enhance their
attractiveness. We will explore the chemistry involved in the manufacture of a few of these cosmetic
products.

The word ―cosmetics actually stems from its use in Ancient Rome. They were typically produced by
female slaves known as ― cosmetae which is where the word ―cosmetics stemmed from. Cosmetics are
used to enhance appearance. Makeup has been around for many centuries. The first known people who
used cosmetics to enhance their beauty were the Egyptians. Makeup those days was just simple eye
coloring or some material for the body. Now-a-days makeup plays an important role for both men and
women. In evolutionary psychology, social competition of appearance strengthens women‘s desires for
ideal beauty. According to ―The Origin of Species humans have evolved to transfer genes to future
generations through sexual selection that regards the body condition of ideal beauty as excellent fertility.
Additionally, since women‘s beauty has recently been considered a competitive advantage to create social
power, a body that meets the social standards of a culture could achieve limited social resources. That's
right, even men have become more beauty conscious and are concerned about their looks. Cosmetics can
be produced in the organic and hypoallergenic form to meet the demands of users. Make-up is used as a
beauty aid to help build up the self-esteem and confidence of an individual.

Cosmetics products include deodorants, hair dyes, hair styling products, make-up, sunscreens, nail
colorants, skin & hair care products, and skin & hair cleansing products, amongst others.
• Global beauty care products industry reached around $265 billion in 2017 (Mintel)
• Interest in natural ingredients is significantly increasing among cosmetic consumers in general
• Naturally derived personal care market is expected to reach $16 billion by 2020 (Grand View
Research)

Cosmetics: Cosmetics are substances that are applied to different parts of the body (skin, hair, nails, mouth,
etc.) to attain a level of attractiveness.

Examples of Cosmetics: deodorant, perfume, shampoos, conditioners, skin creams, lipstick, eye makeup,
nail polish, etc.

I. History of Cosmetics:
4000 BC: The Egyptian women applied galena Mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore), malachite or
bright green paste of copper minerals, to their faces for color and definition. They used a combination of
burnt almonds, oxidized copper, a couple of different colored copper ores, lead, ash, and ochre, and called
it kohl a dark-colored powder that they applied around the eyes, in an almond shape. They also used
perfumed oils.
The Beauty of Yesterday: Ancient Egypt. Often referred to as the vainest
civilization in history, Ancient Egyptians are known to have played a vital role in
shaping modern ideals of beauty. For example, these populations used olive oil,
honey and milk to keep their skin wrinkle free, as well as the pigment from clay to
create lip and cheek tints to recreate a healthy glow. Another prime example is their
use of a charcoal-like substance called Kohl to create thick black lines around their
eyes to enhance their natural shape, believing that by following this technique, it
would also protect their eyes from the glare of the sun.

1500 BC: In China and Japan rice powder was used to paint faces pasty white. Eyebrows were shaved off,
teeth were painted gold or black and Henna dyes, were used to stain hair and faces.

1000 BC Greece: Everybody wanted a white look given by wearing chalk or white lead face powder.
Women used ochre clays laced with red iron for lipstick.

100 AD: In Rome people put barley flour and butter on their pimples, and sheep’s fat and blood on their
fingernails for polish. They took mud baths. Men frequently dyed their hair blond.

14th Century: Cosmetics were thought to be a health threat because many thought they would block
proper circulation. In Elizabethan England dyed red hair was in fashion. Society women wore egg whites
over their faces to create a whiter look.

15th -16th Centuries: In Europe, only the aristocracy used cosmetics. Italy and France surfaced as the main
centers of Cosmetics manufacturing. The French were experts at creating new fragrances and cosmetics,
by blending ingredients. Arsenic was sometimes used in face powder instead of lead.

19th Century: France developed chemical processes to replace fragrances made by the natural methods.
Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder; it replaced the deadly mixtures of lead and copper
previously used. Other poisonous substances are still used in eye shadow (lead and antimony sulfide), lip
reddeners (mercuric sulfide), and to make one's eyes sparkle (belladonna, or deadly nightshade.

The 1920s: Cosmetics and fragrances are manufactured and begin to be mass marketed in America.

1930s: Due to the influence of movie stars, the Hollywood “tan” look emerges. In 1935 Max Factor of
Hollywood develops and introduces pancake makeup because of the adjustments required for
photographing faces for film.

1950s: The modern era of the cosmetics business begins. Television is used to advertise.

1960s: Purple lips and Egyptian eyeliner are in fashion, butterflies are painted on different parts of the
body, and false eye lashes are used. Botanical and vegetable (carrot, watermelon) ingredients combine to
create a back to nature look, and smell.

1970s: Certain ingredients are banned from use in cosmetics to protect endangered species, and other
species currently used as “lab rats” by some cosmetics manufacturers for testing.
1980- Present: There is a diversity of new looks, cosmetics and beauty aids. They form an industry of over
$20 billion in sales annually. We are influenced every day by ads in print, television and the internet of
cosmetics, fragrances, and hair and skin products.

II. Chemistry of Cosmetics

A. Creams and Lotions

The majority of creams and lotions are emulsions. An emulsion can be defined simply as two immiscible
fluids in which one liquid is dispersed as fine droplets in the other. Homogenized milk is an example of a
typical oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. Milk fat (oil) is dispersed in water as fine droplets by the
homogenization process. The reason why the fat does not float to the top immediately is due to the
presence of emulsifiers; in this case, a milk protein called sodium caseinate as well as several phospholipids.
In the case of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions, water is dispersed as droplets and suspended in the oil phase.
The non-dispersed liquid or external suspending phase is also called the continuous phase. Mayonnaise,
vinegar water dispersed as fine droplets in a continuous phase of soybean oil, is an example of a water-in-
oil emulsion. Lecithin from eggs stabilizes the mayonnaise emulsion.

1. Surfactants
Most emulsifiers can be considered surfactants or surface-active agents. These materials are able to
reduce the surface tension of water. What makes an emulsifier surface active is related to its HLB, or
hydrophile-lipophile balance. HLB is determined by the size of the hydrophilic (water-loving or polar)
portion of a molecule as compared to the size of the lipophilic (oil-loving or nonpolar) portion. The HLB
system was created to rank the relative polarity of materials. The most polar, water soluble, materials are
at the top of the twenty-point scale with more non-polar, oil soluble, materials closer to zero. The HLB of
sodium caseinate is assigned a value of around fourteen because of its high solubility in water. Lecithin,
being poorly soluble in water, has an HLB value of about six. Both have polar groups. The polar group in the
milk protein is sodium. Lecithin's surface-active component is a molecule called phosphatidylcholine or PC
(See Figure 1). The polar, or water-soluble part of PC is the phosphate functional group. The emulsifiers'
polar groups orient toward the polar water phase. Their lipophilic, nonpolar groups oriented toward the oil
phase to form micelles (see Figure 2). These spherical structures provide stability to the emulsion through
Hydrogen bonding and weak electrical forces.

Figure 2. Surfactant
Skin-care emulsifiers can be divided into two groups based on ionic charge (See Figure 3). Materials that
can dissociate into charged species are considered ionic while those that do not are called nonionic. Ionic
emulsifiers can be further classified by type of charge. Anionics are negatively charged when solvated as in
sodium stearate or soap.
When fatty acids are reacted with alkali they form soaps. The process of soap formation is called
saponification. The negatively charged stearic acid group is the main emulsifying unit of the soap, giving it
the anionic classification. Positively charged emulsifiers are called cationic. Quarternium24's emulsifying
unit dissociates into the positively charged ammonium group. Amphoterics are compounds that express
both negative and positive charges.
Nonionic emulsifiers are often used in skin-care emulsion for their safety and low reactivity. They are
generally classified by chemical similarity. Glycerin, commonly added to cosmetic emulsions for its
humectant’s properties, is the backbone of a class of emulsifiers called Glyceryl esters. Glyceryl
monostearate, or GMS, is called a monoester because of its sole ester linkage (see Figure 4). The diester is
prepared by esterifying two molecules of stearic acid for every molecule of glycerin. Glyceryl mono- and
diesters are very effective emulsifiers because they contain both polar hydroxyl (OH) groups as well as non-
polar fatty acids. If all three of Glycerin's hydroxyl groups are reacted, the resulting triester will have little
emulsifying capability.
Stearic acid is called C18 fatty acid. The fatty acids, present in fats and oils, are classified according to their
carbon-chain lengths. Because stearic acid is a major component of many of the fats and oils used in
beauty treatments, stearate-based emulsifiers are particularly useful. Fatty acids are key components of

many cosmetic emulsifiers due to their miscibility in a variety of natural and synthetic oils.
Esters polyethylene glycol or ethylene glycol is called PEG esters. A PEG ester's solubility is determined by
the number of PEG molecules reacted per molecule of acid. PEG 6 oleate for instance has six molecules of
PEG reacted with one molecule of oleic acid. As the number of polar, PEG molecules per acid molecule
increases the water solubility/HLB is increased; PEG 8 oleate is more soluble than PEG 6 oleate. The
cosmetic chemist will often use blends of glyceryl esters and a PEG ester with high and low HLB values to
determine the required polarity to emulsify various fats and oils. The many types of emulsifiers are too
numerous to list here, however McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents are excellent sources for a more
complete listing.
2. Emollients
The majority of emollients used in personal care and beauty items are fats and oils, also called lipids.
Animal fat or tallow is composed primarily of stearic and palmitic acids with carbon chains lengths of 18
and 16 respectively. Many of the major cosmetic companies are moving away from animal-based materials
like tallow to renewable vegetable-based materials. Coconut oil and palm kernel oil are often used. Some
of the key characteristics required in good emollients are good spreading properties, low toxicity/skin
irritation and good oxidative stability. Oleic acid, a major constituent of olive oil has poor oxidative stability
due to the presence of its double bond. Fats and oils are considered saturated if they do not have double
bonds. Unsaturated oils like olive oil have double bonds that can react with oxygen, especially when
heated. The oxidation process can produce off colors and odors in lipids causing them to go rancid and
unusable.
Petroleum-based emollients such as petroleum jelly and mineral oil are found in many formulations
because they do not contain double bonds or reactive functional groups. Silicone oils such as
cyclomethicone, dimethicone are often added to increase slip and emolliency (See Figure 5).
Oils that contain high levels of essential fatty acids, EFAs, are prized for their ability to replenish lipids (oils)
that are found naturally within the skin layers. Linoleic acid is an example of an EFA. Long-chain alcohols,
also called fatty alcohols, are useful as emollients and emulsion stabilizers. Their polar hydroxyl groups
orient to the water phase with their fatty chains oriented towards the oil phase. Esters of fatty alcohols
and fatty acids make excellent emollients because of their low reactivity and good stability.
Lanolin, derived from sheep's wool, is often called wool grease. Lanolin has been used for centuries due to
its unique composition of complex sterols, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids. Cholesterol, a cyclic molecule
called a sterol is a major component. The polar hydroxyl groups of sterols and alcohols enable the grease
to absorb and hold water. Skin is primarily composed of water, countless oils and emollients are used to
nourish and protect it.

Figure 5: Dimethicone and Cyclomethicone

3. Moisturizers
The main distinction between moisturizers and emollients is their solubility in water. Healthy skin requires
moisture. Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are hygroscopic in nature; they hold onto water.
An important tool to assess the 15 efficiency of moisturizers is the high scope. It measures trans epidermal
water loss or TEWL. After a moisturizer is applied to the skin, the moisture level is recorded. After several
minutes the moisture level will be reduced due to the natural tendency of the skin to release moisture over
time. Ingredients that can maintain a high level of moisture in the upper layers of the skin for several hours
can reduce the rate at which water is lost. Glycerin is a very cost-effective ingredient used to help reduce
TEWL. Sorbitol, sucrose, glucose, and other sugars are also commonly used to hydrate the skin. Aloe, which
contains a mixture of polysaccharides, carbohydrates, and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer. As skin
becomes drier in the winter months, it may be necessary to incorporate materials that better seal the
moisture in the skin.
4. Waxes
Waxes are composed primarily of long-chain esters that are solid at room temperature. Anyone who has
ever dipped a finger in molten wax has experienced its sealing properties. Some common waxes used in
cosmetics are beeswax, candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene, and paraffin. The melting points of waxes vary
widely depending on their unique composition and chain lengths. Commonly used in lip balms and sticks,
waxes function as structuring agents, giving the stick enough rigidity to stand up on its own, as well as
barrier properties. By combining waxes with different properties such as high shine, flexibility, and
brittleness, optimal cosmetic performance can be achieved. Often waxes are combined with compatible
oils to achieve the desired softness. Compatibility is generally determined by gauging the turbidity and
degree of separation of two materials mixed together above their melt points. Waxes are particularly
useful in hand creams and mascara emulsions for their thickening and waterproofing properties.
5. Thickeners
By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion, a thick cream can be formed. Many thickeners are
polymers. Cellulose, a fine powder polymer of repeating D-glucose units swells in hot water creating a gel
network. Carbopol, a polyacrylic acid, swells when neutralized (See Figure 6). Bentone clays swell when
their structure, resembling a stack of cards, is opened through mechanical shear. Carrageenan, pectin, and
locust bean gum are all examples of cosmetic thickeners that are also used in some of our favorite foods
such as jellies, salad dressings, and pie fillings.

6. Active Ingredients
Materials that work physiologically within the skin or aid in protecting the skin from insult are also called
active ingredients. The term "cosmeceuticals" coined by famed dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman, refers to
a product that is in-between a cosmetic and a drug. Although a cosmetic, by legal definition, can only serve
to beautify and protect the surface of the skin, many cosmetic products can be shown to penetrate the
dermal layers of the skin to exact a physiological change.
Fruit acids are examples of an active material. Also called alpha hydroxyacids or AHAs, they have the ability
to penetrate the skin, where they can increase the production of collagen, elastin, and intracellular
substances thus improving the appearance of the skin. Thousands of cosmetic actives are used to affect
the skin in a variety of ways. They are used to lighten, tighten, and firm the skin. They can be used to
suppress perspiration as in the case of aluminum chlorohydrate. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are
important ingredients because of their anti-acne activity (See Figure 7). Some active materials are added to
skin treatments to protect the skin from the environment. Dimethicone and petrolatum are examples of
skin protectants.
7. Sunscreens
Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation. Wavelengths
between 290nm and 400nm are particularly damaging to the skin. Sunscreens' ability to absorb or reflect
these damaging wavelengths are rated by their SPF or sun-protection factor. For instance a person
protected with a factor-15 sunscreen will be able to stay in the sun fifteen times longer than if unprotected.
Octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salycilate, titanium dioxide, and avobenzone are some important topical
sunscreens. They can be classified as either UVA or UVB sunscreens depending on the wavelengths they
absorb. Benzophenone 4, a watersoluble UV filter, is commonly used to protect the color of cosmetic
products.

Figure 7: Structure of Benzoyl Peroxide

8. Color
Pigments and dyes are used in products to impart a color. Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a white pigment that is
mined. In combination with natural mined and synthetic iron oxides, which range in color from red, yellow,
black and brown, depending upon the degree of oxidation and hydration, a range of color can be produced
that will be suitable for almost every skin tone. Face powders are produced by blending inorganic oxides
and fillers. Fillers are inert, generally inexpensive materials such as kaolin, talc, silica, and mica that are
used to extend and fully develop colors. Pressed powders like eye shadows and blushers are prepared by
blending additional binding ingredients such as oils and zinc stearate and pressing the mixture into pans.
Eye shadows and lipsticks often contain pearlescent pigments commonly called pearls. Pearls sparkle and
reflect light to produce a multitude of colors. They are prepared by precipitating a thin layer of color on
thin platelets of mica. Varying the thickness of the color deposited changes the angle of light refracted
though the composite, creating different colors.
Organic pigments are used to color lipsticks and eye shadows. When organics are precipitated on a
substrate, they are called lake pigments. The term lake refers to the laking or precipitating of the organic
salt onto a metal substrate such as aluminum, calcium, or barium. They are called D&C (drug and cosmetic)
and FD&C (food, drug and cosmetic) colors. Some examples are D&C Red#7 calcium lake and FD&C Yellow
#5 aluminum lake. Dyes such as FD&C Blue#1 and D&C Yellow #10 are readily soluble as opposed to
pigments, which are insoluble. Dyes are useful in providing tints for lotions, oils, and shampoos.

9. Preservatives
Most cosmetic products require the addition of preservative to prevent microbial contamination and
rancidity. Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid are by far the most commonly used because of their
effectiveness against gram-positive bacteria. Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against gramnegative
strains. The cosmetic chemist will generally employ a mixture of preservatives to protect against different
bacterial strains as well as yeasts and molds. Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and BHT are also
added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well as protect the skin from free-radical damage.
A cream is a preparation usually for application to the skin. Creams for application to mucous membranes
such as those of the rectum or vagina are also used. Creams may be considered pharmaceutical products
as even cosmetic creams are based on techniques developed by pharmacy and unmedicated creams are
highly used in a variety of skin conditions (dermatoses). The use of the fingertip unit concept may be
helpful in guiding how much topical cream is required to cover different areas.
Creams are semi-solid emulsions of oil and water. They are divided into two types: oil-in-water (O/W)
creams which are composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous water phase, and water-in-
oil (W/O) creams which are composed of small droplets of water dispersed in a continuous oily phase. Oil-
in-water creams are more comfortable and cosmetically acceptable as they are less greasy and more easily
washed off using water. Water-in-oil creams are more difficult to handle but many drugs which are
incorporated into creams are hydrophobic and will be released more readily from a water-in-oil cream
than an oil-in-water cream. Water-in-oil creams are also more moisturizing as they provide an oily barrier
which reduces water loss from the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin.
Ointment is a semisolid dosage form it is used for topical application to the medication.
Water, oil, emulsifier, and thickening agent are four main ingredients of cold creams and lotions.
B. Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents, used to give
the human body, animals, food, objects, and living spaces an agreeable scent. Perfume types reflect the
concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or a mix of
water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity
and longevity of a perfume is based on the concentration, intensity, and longevity of the aromatic
compounds, or perfume oils, used. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate
concentration by the percent of perfume oil in the volume of the final product. The most widespread terms
are:
• parfum or extrait, in English known as perfume • eau de toilette (EdT): 5–15% aromatic
extract, pure perfume, or simply perfume: 15– compounds (typically ~10%); This is the staple for
40% aromatic compounds (IFRA: typically, ~20%); most masculine perfumes.
• esprit de parfum (ESdP): 15–30% aromatic • eau de Cologne (EdC): often simply called
compounds, a seldom used strength cologne: 3–8% aromatic compounds (typically
concentration in between EdP and perfume; ~5%);
• eau de parfum (EdP) or parfum de toilette (PdT) • eau fraiche: products sold as "splashes", "mists",
(The strength usually sold as "perfume"[16]): 10– "veils" and other imprecise terms. Generally,
20% aromatic compounds (typically ~15%); these products contain 3% or less aromatic
sometimes called "eau de perfume" or compounds and are diluted with water rather
"millésime"; parfum de toilette is a less common than oil or alcohol.
term, most popular in the 1980s, that is generally
analogous to eau de parfum;
Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent
accord. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper
middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are
created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.
• Top notes: Also called the head notes. The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a
perfume. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial
impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. Examples of top notes
include mint, lavender and coriander.
• Middle notes: Also referred to as heart notes. The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to the
dissipation of the top note. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and
act to mask the often-unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time.
Examples of middle notes include seawater, sandalwood and jasmine.
• Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The base
and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a
perfume. Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until
30 minutes after application. Examples of base notes include tobacco, amber and musk.
The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes; conversely, the scents of the base
notes will be altered by the types of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers who publish
perfume notes typically do so with the fragrance components presented as a fragrance pyramid, using
imaginative and abstract terms for the components listed.
How well do you know your perfume ingredients? It's okay if the answer is "not well at all." If you've ever
found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" we hope you'll enjoy this glossary of frequently used
fragrance and aromatherapy ingredients.
Agrumen The tangy oil that is expressed from the (non-
An aldehyde (see below) with a characteristic edible) bergamot orange, which is grown
green, musky odor primarily in Italy.
Aldehyde Calone
Organic compounds present in many natural An aromatic chemical that adds a “sea breeze” or
materials that can be synthesized artificially, such marine-type note to fragrances
as the aliphatic aldehydes used to give sparkle to Cashmeran
Chanel No 5 A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky,
Amber floral odor, used to invoke the velvety smell or
A heavy, full bodied, powdery, warm fragrance "feel" of cashmere
note Amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree Castoreum
Ambergris An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver
A sperm whale secretion with a sweet, woody used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance.
odor, usually reproduced synthetically, as sale of Often reproduced synthetically
ambergris is illegal in many countries. Citron
Ambrette The zest of this tree's fruit is used to create citrus
The oil obtained from ambrette seeds—which fragrance notes
come from hibiscus—has a musk-like odor. Civet
Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for Musk produced by a gland at the base of the
true musk. African civet cat's tail, pure civet is said to have a
Amyris strong, unpleasant odor, but in small quantities it
A white-flowering bush or tree found in Haiti and is often used to add depth and warmth to a
South America, often used as a less-expensive fragrance
substitute for sandalwood Clary sage
Benzoin The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet,
A balsamic resin from the Styrax tree with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco
Bergamot Coumarin
A commonly used perfume compound that smells
like vanilla, usually derived from the tonka bean,
but also found in lavender, sweet grass, and other
plants
Frangipani
A fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West
Indian Jasmine"
Frankincense
A gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and
Eastern Africa Also called Olibanum
Galbanum
A gum resin that imparts a green, plant-like smell
Guaiac Wood
Wood from a resinous South American tree, the
oil of which used in perfumery
Hedione
An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant
jasmine aroma
Heliotrope
Flowers of the family heliotropium, which have a
strong, sweet vanilla-like fragrance with
undertones of almond
Indole
A chemical compound which smells floral at low
concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations.
Used widely in perfumery
Iso E Super
A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody,
amber note with a velvet-like sensation, used to
impart fullness into fragrances
Jasmine
A flower employed widely in perfumery, Jasmine
is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients
in the world
Labdanum
An aromatic gum from the rockrose bush, the
sweet woody odor is said to mimic ambergris (see
above), and can also be used to impart a leather
note
Monoi
Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil,
sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti
Muguet
French for Lily of the Valley. One of the three
most used florals in perfumery, unlike jasmine
and rose, usually synthetically reproduced
Musk
Natural musk comes from the glands of the musk
deer, but the vast majority of musk produced and
sold in the world today is synthetic. This is a good
thing, seeing as musk is found in almost every
man's fragrance and cologne. Natural musk is also
one of the most expensive perfume ingredients.
Myrrh
A gum resin produced from a bush found in
Arabia and Eastern Africa
Narciussus
The white flowers of this tree are used
extensively in French perfume production
Neroli
A citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either
the sweet or bitter orange tree. The Italian term
for neroli is zagara.
Oakmoss
Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees.
Prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental
at first, and then becomes refined and earthy
when dried, making it reminiscent of bark,
seashore, and foliage
Opopanax
An herb that grows in the Middle East, North
Africa, and the Mediterranean, also known as
sweet myrrh, the resin produces a scent similar to
that of balsam or lavender
Orris
Derived from the iris plant, has a flowery, heavy
and woody aroma, Orris is very rare
Osmanthus
A flowering tree native to China, valued for its
delicate fruity apricot aroma
Oud (Oudh)
Refers to wood from the Agar tree found mostly
in Southeast Asia, the fragrant resin is treasured
by perfumers, it is another one of the most
expensive perfume ingredients in the world
Ozone
A modern, synthetic note meant to mimic the
smell of petrichor, or fresh air right after a
thunderstorm
Patchouli
A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India.
It has a musty-sweet, spicy aroma, patchouli is
often used as a base note
Rose
One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, Tuberose
rose is, shockingly, also one of the more A plant with highly perfumed white flowers,
expensive perfume ingredients resembling those of a lily
Rose de Mai Vanilla
The traditional name given to Rose Absolute (rose Derived from the seed pod of the vanilla orchid,
essential oil) produced by solvent and then highly fragrant, popular, and expensive to
alcohol extraction produce
Sandalwood Vetiver
An oil from the Indian sandal tree, one of the A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used
oldest known perfumery ingredients, commonly to distil an oil that smells of the moist earth with
used as a base note woody, earthy, leather and smoky undertones, a
Tonka Bean highly important ingredient in perfumes
Derived from a plant native to Brazil, has an Ylang Ylang
aroma of vanilla, but with strong hints of An Asian evergreen tree with fragrant flowers,
cinnamon, cloves, and almonds, used as a less- the oil of which is used in expensive floral
expensive alternative to vanilla, although has perfumes
become popular on its own
C. Talc is a natural mineral, which, when pure, has the chemical composition Mg3(Si4O10)(OH)2 and is the
softest known mineral Talc is a hydrated magnesium silicate that is commonly used in the manufacture of
leather, rubber, paper, textiles, and ceramic tiles as well as iron and nickel products. Being associated with
minerals such as quartz, mica, kaolin, and asbestos, talc may cause different forms of pulmonary diseases
depending on the nature of exposure – inhalation of pure talc; inhalation of talc in association with silica
(talc silicosis); inhalation of talc in association with asbestos fibers (Talco asbestosis); and intravenous
ingestion of talc (during recreational drug abuse). Pathologically, the ingestion of asbestos or silica
with talc, rather than by talc alone, causes pleural, parenchymal, and interstitial fibrosis and
peribronchiolar and perivascular macrophage infiltration, whereas talc induces no necrotizing
granulomatous inflammation, leading to progressive fibrosis.

Talc, also known as French chalk, is powdered hydrous magnesium silicate sometimes containing a small
amount of aluminum silicate. It is a naturally occurring whitish-gray mineral. In cosmetics and personal
care products, Talc is used in the formulation of makeup, baby powder, body powder and deodorizing
powder. In body applications, Talc absorbs moisture and oil, helping skin feel soft, fresh, cool and dry. It
also reduces friction and chafing that can irritate skin. In color cosmetics, Talc is used to help control shine
and absorb oil. Talc occurs naturally as mineral deposits and is valued for its softness. Talc is insoluble in
water

A deodorant is a substance applied to the body to prevent or mask body odor due to bacterial breakdown
of perspiration in the armpits, groin, and feet, and in some cases vaginal secretions. A subclass of
deodorants, called antiperspirants, prevents sweating itself, typically by blocking sweat glands.
Antiperspirants are used on a wider range of body parts, at any place where sweat would be inconvenient
or unsafe, since unwanted sweating can interfere with comfort, vision, and grip (due to slipping). Other
types of deodorant allow sweating but prevent bacterial action on sweat, since human sweat only has a
noticeable smell when it is decomposed by bacteria.

D. Deodorant is one of the most commonly used cosmetic products, with millions of consumers applying
these products to their axilla every day. Deodorants are used to mask odor; whereas, antiperspirants are
used to reduce the amount of sweat produced. These two activities are often combined into single
products. While deodorants are considered cosmetic products because they do not change the function of
the skin, antiperspirants are classified as drugs and are therefore subject to rules and regulations set forth
by the FDA. The active ingredient in antiperspirants is usually aluminum based, which reduces sweat by
causing obstruction of the eccrine glands. Deodorants work by two different mechanisms— antimicrobial
agents decreasethe number of bacteria that produce volatileodoriferous substances and fragrances
coverany odors that are produced. Recently, naturally occurring zeolite minerals, in the form of potassium
alum or ammonium alumcrystals, have been marketed as all-natural alternatives to deodorants and
antiperspirants. These products are sold in solid crystal form. The consumer is instructed to wet the crystal
and apply the product to the underarm area to prevent odor. Although no research has been published
evaluating the mechanism of action of these products, the company that markets them, Crystal Body
Deodorant (French Transit, Ltd., Burlingame, California), claims that the mineral salts create an
environment in which bacteria cannot survive.

In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration classifies and regulates most deodorants as
cosmetics but classifies antiperspirants as over-the-counter drugs.

In the United States, deodorants are classified and regulated as cosmetics by the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration (FDA)and are designed to eliminate odor. Deodorants are often alcohol based. Alcohol
initially stimulates sweating but may also temporarily kill bacteria. Other active ingredients in deodorants
include sodium stearate, sodium chloride, and stearyl alcohol. Deodorants can be formulated with other,
more persistent antimicrobials such as triclosan that slow bacterial growth or with metal chelant
compounds such as EDTA. Deodorants may contain perfume fragrances or natural essential oils intended
to mask the odor of perspiration. In the past, deodorants included chemicals such as zinc oxide, acids,
ammonium chloride, sodium bicarbonate, and formaldehyde, but some of these ingredients were messy,
irritating to the skin, or even carcinogenic.

Over-the-counter products, often labelled as "natural deodorant crystal", contain the chemical rock
crystals potassium alum or ammonium alum, which prevents bacterial action on sweat. These have gained
popularity as an alternative health product, in spite of concerns about possible risks related to aluminum
(see below – all alum salts contain aluminum in the form of aluminum sulphate salts) and contact
dermatitis.

Vaginal deodorant, in the form of sprays, suppositories, and wipes, is often used by women to mask vaginal
secretions. Vaginal deodorants can sometimes cause dermatitis. In the United States, deodorants
combined with antiperspirant agents are classified as drugs by the FDA. Antiperspirants attempt to stop or
significantly reduce perspiration and thus reduce the moist climate in which bacteria thrive. Aluminum
chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, and aluminum-zirconium compounds, most notably aluminum
zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex gly, are frequently used in
antiperspirants. Aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrate gly are the most
frequent active ingredients in commercial antiperspirants. Aluminum-based complexes react with the
electrolytes in the sweat to form a gel plug in the duct of the sweat gland. The plugs prevent the gland
from excreting liquid and are removed over time by the natural sloughing of the skin. The metal salts work
in another way to prevent sweat from reaching the surface of the skin: the aluminum salts interact with
the keratin fibrils in the sweat ducts and form a physical plug that prevents sweat from reaching the skin’s
surface. aluminum salts also have a slight astringent effect on the pores; causing them to contract, further
preventing sweat from reaching the surface of the skin. The blockage of a large number of sweat glands
reduces the amount of sweat produced in the underarms, though this may vary from person to person.
Methenamine in the form of cream or spray is effective in the treatment of excessive sweating and
attendant odor. Antiperspirants are usually best applied before bed.
Some Ingredients in Cosmetics: Their Uses and Purposes Sometimes reading the ingredients lists of my
favorite beauty products makes me wish I’d paid closer attention in chemistry class. Diazolidinyl urea?
Tocopherol? Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate? Luckily, the very first ingredient in most makeup or skincare
products is usually water, so at least I understand something. Although trying to figure out what goes into
your favorite eye shadow or shampoo can feel like trying to translate a language you’ve never heard before,
each ingredient on the list—from aqua to zinc—really does have a purpose and function.
• Agar, also known as algae, carageenan, opalescent look. It doesn’t change how the
laminaria, ulva lactuca, and ascophyllum, contains product works, but it makes it look appealing.
protein and several vitamins. It’s usually added to • Lanolin is a protein derived from sheep’s sweat
moisturizers as an emollient or antioxidant. glands. It’s a high-quality moisturizer that’s
• Alcohol SD-40 is a high-grade cosmetic alcohol especially effective for people with dry or
that acts as an emollient and a vehicle for the sensitive skin. Chemically, it’s very similar to oil
other ingredients. Alcohols (including ethyl produced by human sebaceous glands.
alcohol, methyl alcohol, and benzyl alcohol) also • Lecithin, a lipid found naturally in plant and
help keep the product bacteria-free, but some animal cells, is used in moisturizers and skin
alcohols can cause dryness and irritation for creams as an emollient and moisturizing agent. It
those with sensitive skin. helps protect the outer layers of the epidermis
• Allantoin is used in skin creams and lotions and against dryness and irritation, keeping the layers
is a by-product of uric acid; it is an effective soft and allowing them to repair and regenerate.
calming agent that also reduces skin irritation. • Mica is a reflective mineral that is used in
• Aluminum chlorohydrate is one of the most makeup products and sometimes toothpaste. It is
common ingredients in antiperspirant. responsible for shimmer and pearlescence.
Technically it’s a salt, and when it reacts with the • Panthenol, sometimes called pantothenic acid,
enzymes in sweat, it forms a temporary “plug” is a form of vitamin B5. In hair products, it seals
that sits in the pore and prevents more sweat the hair shaft, making strands soft and shiny. It’s
from being released. (The plug is easily washed or sometimes used in skin ointments that treat
sloughed away by bathing.) Aluminum burns or irritation because it can reduce
chlorohydrate also acts as an astringent, causing inflammation and speed healing.
the pores in the underarm to constrict so they • Parabens (including butylparaben,
can’t release more sweat. methylparaben, etc.) are preservatives. Used
• Cellulose can refer to any plant-derived matter. widely in up to 70 percent of makeup, skin
In creams and lotions, it is used as a thickener products, and other cosmetics, they prevent
and allows oil ingredients to blend with water spoilage and inhibit bacteria and fungi.
without separating. • Potassium sorbate inhibits the growth of mold
• Diethanolomine, like its cousin triethanolomine, and yeast and is often used as a preservative.
sometimes goes by its initials DEA (or TEA, in the • Propylene glycol, like other glycols, is a
case of triethanolomine). It’s a solvent that’s humectant agent used in skin creams that also
added to cleansers to make them lather and foam. helps other ingredients be absorbed more readily.
• Dimethicone is a form of silicone. Used often in It is not dangerous, as many chain emails or
hair products, it makes the product slippery and alarmist websites would have you believe. In
spreadable. In general, any ingredients with the cosmetics, it is used in very small amounts, and
suffix “cone” are forms of silicone that perform the Department of Health and Human Services
similar functions. • Glycerin is found naturally in has determined that it poses no threat.
skin and is added to skin creams to increase • Sodium hydroxide is the chemical term for lye.
hydration. This alkaline substance is used to modify a
• Glycol stearate is a thickener added to products product’s pH balance (i.e., to make it less acidic).
like shampoos to give them a pearly or
Products with large amounts of sodium hydroxide
can severely irritate skin.
• Sodium lauryl sulfate is a surface-active
substance used most often in shampoo, but it is
also used in skin cleansers. It loosens dirt and oils,
making it easier to wash them away. Sodium
lauryl sulfate is highly irritating to skin (its cousin
sodium laureth sulfate is milder), but contrary to
popular belief, it does not cause cancer.
• Stearyl alcohol is used in emulsions to keep all
the ingredients mixed and suspended properly. It
is also an emollient. • Talc is one of the primary
ingredients in powdered cosmetics like eye
shadow and blush. It is an absorbent natural
compound that comprises silicon and magnesium.
• Titanium dioxide is used to thicken and lighten
cosmetics like foundation, blush, and eye shadow.
It’s also a sunscreen, protecting against both UVA
and UVB rays without causing irritation to skin.
• Tocopherol, along with its chemical cousin’s
tocopherol acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, and
tocopheryl nicotinate, is a form of vitamin E. It is
added to lipsticks and other emollient cosmetics
like concealer or cream blush as an inexpensive
but powerful antioxidant.
• Xanthan gum is a thickening agent that gives
products their proper texture.

This is far from an exhaustive list; there are literally thousands of ingredients that can be included in
modern cosmetics. Most products contain active ingredients, plant extracts, preservatives, thickeners,
emollients, emulsifiers, and also a few fragrance additives and coloring agents. One way to tell the
proportion of these ingredients to one another is to see where they fall on the product’s label; the active
ingredients and those that exist in large amounts are listed first, and fragrances, dyes, and ingredients that
exist only in tiny amounts are listed at the end. Reading cosmetics labels can still feel like deciphering a
foreign language but being able to translate even a few key words and phrases makes everything make a
lot more sense.

III. Dangers of Metallic Compounds in Cosmetics:

A. Lead Poisoning: Lead is toxic to many of your body's tissues and enzymes. Lead disrupts the functioning
of brain neurotransmitters. Neurotransmitters are chemical messengers between the body's nerve cells.
For example, the messenger calcium is vital to nerve impulse transmission, heart activity, and blood
clotting. If it doesn’t work correctly it can affect other systems

I. Symptoms: Vary from mild symptoms like headache, irritability or abdominal pain to anemia, changes in
kidney function, listlessness, bizarre behavior, vomiting, or altered consciousness.

ii. Effects: High blood pressure; damage to the reproductive organs; digestive problems; nerve disorders;
memory and concentration problems; muscle and joint pain; cataracts; coma and death

iii. Progressive hair dyes: These dyes are applied over time to gradually color the hair. They contain lead
acetate. The FDA found that lead exposure from these dyes was insignificant and that the dyes could be
used safely, says John Bailey, Ph.D., director of FDA's Office of Cosmetics and Colors.

iv. Kajal, Surma, or Kohl: are unapproved dyes contained in some eye cosmetics from the Middle East. They
contain potentially harmful amounts of lead. You can find these products in stores specializing in Middle
East products or brought into the country in luggage.

B. Mercury: Mercury compounds are easily absorbed through the skin with topica application. They tend
to accumulate in the body. It is used as a preservative in some cosmetics. If used as direct by the FDA it is
thought to be safe.
i. Symptoms: skin rashes; irritation; other changes to the skin; impairment of peripheral vision; numbness
of the hands, feet and sometimes around the mouth; lack of coordination of movements, Impairment of
speech, hearing, walking; muscle weakness; memory loss; and mental disturbances.

ii. Effects: Exposure to mercury can cause damage to the brain, nervous system, kidneys and even death.
The fetuses of pregnant women exposed to mercury can be severely poisoned, resulting in brain damage
and other malformations.

iii. Skin - lightening creams: Some skin lightening creams made in the Dominican Republic, Hong Kong and
China do not conform to FDA regulations concerning mercury. They contain high levels of metal.

IV. Regulations of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration

(FDA) of Cosmetics
A. Controls over Ingredients: No approval is required for the use of any new ingredient in a cosmetic. The
manufacturer takes responsibility for the safety of the final product. All color additives must be tested for
safety and approved for their intended use and each batch must be certified by the FDA before they can be
marketed in the USA.

B. Restricted or Prohibited Ingredients: Some color additives, bithionol, mercury compounds, vinyl chloride,
halogenated salicylanilides, zirconium complexes in aerosol cosmetics, chloroform, methylene chloride,
chlorofluorocarbon propellants, and hexachlorophene are prohibited in the US. Adulterated cosmetic nail
products are containing methyl methacrylate monomer or those containing morethan 5% formaldehyde.

C. Labelling of Ingredients: Cosmetic ingredients must be listed by their established name (INCI names) as
stated in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association (CTFA) International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary. Cosmetic companies are required to list ingredients, in descending order of predominant
weights, on labels clearly visible to the consumer, usually their outer package. Ingredients such as
colorants and fragrances that make up less than 1 percent of the weight are listed after other ingredients
in no particular Cosmetics that can be hazardous to consumers when misused must have appropriate label
warnings and sufficient directions for safe use.

D. Safety and Testing: The safety of cosmetics is the responsibility of the manufacturer. The FDA conducts
unannounced inspections of companies on the basis of complaint or suspicion of noncompliance.