OLIVATIS® 12 C

Inci name: Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate

Function: W/O emulsifier
Reach status: Polymer

Developed and produced exclusively by the Medolla Limited, Olivatis 12C is an innovative “Peg-free”
and “Palm-free”, liquid crystals promoting, non-ionic W/O emulsifier.

Based on Polyglycerine-6 and Olive Fatty Acids, Olivatis 12C is a “green” product, derived entirely from
vegetable raw materials:

• Palm-free vegetable glycerine.

• Fatty acids extracted from Olive Oil.

Olivatis 12C is Cosmos approved as a natural ingredient.

Specifications

Appearance: clear viscous liquid

Color: yellow amber
Acid value: 15 max.
Saponification value: 170 - 200
Water: 1 % max.
HLB: 6 about

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Medolla Limited
Unit 2403, Tung Wai Commercial Bldg. Phone: +852.81912071
109 / 111, Gloucester Road - Wan Chai www.medollalimited.com
Hong Kong info@medollalimited.com
Liquid crystals promotion

Olivatis 12C promotes a liquid crystal network that gives rigidity to the system and makes emulsions
very stable. Furthermore, the liquid crystals system enhances the moisturizing power of emulsions as,
in the liquid crystals network, the quantity of inter-lamellar water, that can be extremely high, is
immediately available when creams are applied on skin. For this reason, emulsions have a shiny
surface, a fresh and light feel and leave a light sensation on skin. Emulsions formulated with Olivatis
12C are easily absorbed and, although they are rich in natural oily substances, are neither greasy, nor
sticky.

A simple emulsion made with 5 % Olivatis 12C,

observed by an optical microscope at 250
magnifications in polarized light, shows the particular
structure and the evident effect of birefringence,
typical of the crystalline form.

A liquid-crystals structure is very similar to the stratum corneum of epidermis and is therefore more
similar to skin than conventional emulsions, with the consequent higher power of penetration and
spreading of functional components. For this reason, emulsions made with Olivatis 12C are light, not
greasy, fresh with a good spredability. Overturning the conventional wisdom that sees W/O emulsions
heavy and unpleasant.

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Medolla Limited
Unit 2403, Tung Wai Commercial Bldg. Phone: +852.81912071
109 / 111, Gloucester Road - Wan Chai www.medollalimited.com
Hong Kong info@medollalimited.com
Rheological behaviour

Olivatis 12C is a broad range emulsifier and is effective with any kind of oil and ester, but is particularly
recommended for emulsions with an oil phase between 15 - 30%.

If the oil phase concentration (outer phase) is increased, the viscosity of the formulation decreases. If
a higher viscosity is needed, a common lipid gelling wax can be added to the formulation.

The addition of a popular electrolyte (the best is a bivalent salt such as MgSO4 or ZnSO4) in the water
phase (0,5 - 1,0%) helps the stabilization of water droplets in oil.

It is recommened to use Olivatis 12C at concentrations ranging from 15 % to 25 % of the oil phase.

Olivatis 12C must be added into the oil phase. Depending on the ingredients and the required
viscosity, it is possible to make a hot or a cold process.

The procedure of mixing the oil and the water phase is very important as it has a great impact on the
viscosity and overall stability of emulsions. The water phase should be added to the oil phase very
slowly, under high shear mixing. In case of a hot process, water should be heated at the same
temperature of the oil phase.

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Medolla Limited
Unit 2403, Tung Wai Commercial Bldg. Phone: +852.81912071
109 / 111, Gloucester Road - Wan Chai www.medollalimited.com
Hong Kong info@medollalimited.com
Olivatis 12C in sun products

Olivatis 12C gives outstanding water resistance to sun products. A test performed by the University of
Siena (Italy) in accordance with COLIPA’s recommendations has showed that a sunscreen made with
Olivatis 12C retains 95% of the initial SPF after two immersions in water and 82% of the initial SPF after 4
immersions.

Ingredient %
Polyisoprene 8.00
Paraffinum Liquidum 7.00
Olivatis 12C 5.00
Behenyl Beeswax 3.00
Cera Alba 5.00
Ethylhexyl Metoxycinnamate 5.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00
Glycerin 2.00
Preservative q.s
Water q.s

Initial SPF SPF WRR (two 20’immersions) SPF VWRRi (4 x 20’ immersions)
12.797 12.369 10.677

Data were obtained using a Labsphere UV-2000UV Transmittance Analyzer spectrophotometer and
PMMA . The quantity of the product used for the determination was 0,75 mg/cm2. The
determinations of the SPF was made at the time of laying and after immersions in water of the
substrate.

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Medolla Limited
Unit 2403, Tung Wai Commercial Bldg. Phone: +852.81912071
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 5% emulsifier concentration

SPF trend after two and four immersions

14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Initial SPF SPF WRR SPF VWRR

Retention degree after two and four immersions

100

95

90

85

80

75

70
WRRi % VWRRi %

Olivatis 12C is very versatile and forms stable, shiny, not tacky W/O emulsions, with a good
spreadability.

The tested emulsios has an excellent water resistance. The superficial film created by Olivatis 12C is
water resistant, but is light, almost unperceivable. Olivatis 12C maintains a pleasant level of skin
hydration and leaves skin smooth and soft. Thanks to their evident dermatological advantages,
formulators’ interest in W/O emulsions is growing.

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Medolla Limited
Unit 2403, Tung Wai Commercial Bldg. Phone: +852.81912071
109 / 111, Gloucester Road - Wan Chai www.medollalimited.com
Hong Kong info@medollalimited.com
Olivatis 12C in make up.

In make up products, Olivatis 12C is a very effective dispersant of powders, from “fillers” such as talc
and kaolin, to coloured iron oxides and lakes and improve the brilliance of colours in lip gloss and
colour cosmetics, as well. Olivatis 12C is also suitable for formulations with high quantity of silicon
oils.

Thanks to the moisturizing and hydrating properties of Olivatis 12C, waterproof make up have always
a silky and soft touch without any sensation of oily skin.

Features and performances of Olivatis 12C at a glance.

High stabilizing properties in W/O and W/S emulsions

Compatibility with physical and chemical sunscreens
Increase of the hydrating effect of make up products
High powder dispersing ability
Hot or cold processing
Easy to use

Properties of emulsions with Olivatis 12C

Fresh and light texture

High moisturizing and emollient properties
High waterproof properties
Suitable for sensitive skins

Revision n. 00 Date: 10.2016

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Medolla Limited
Unit 2403, Tung Wai Commercial Bldg. Phone: +852.81912071
109 / 111, Gloucester Road - Wan Chai www.medollalimited.com
Hong Kong info@medollalimited.com