Yarn Manufacturing

Yarn Manufacturing
Spinning Systems

Conventional Spinning Methods Non-Conventional Methods

Ring Spinning Friction Spinning

Woollen Spinning Rotor Spinning

Worsted Spinning Air jet Spinning

Yarn Manufacturing
Conventional Yarn Manufacture
◦ Short Staple Spinning – Ring Spinning
Breaker
◦ Long Staple Spinning – Woollen Spinning & Blowroom Carding
Worsted Spinning
Drawframe

Stages in Conventional Ring Spinning

Roving Finisher Combing
Frame Drawframe (Optional)

Ring
Winding
Spinning
Blowroom
Objectives Opening
◦ Blending ◦ To loosen hard lumps of fibres and disentangle
◦ Opening and them
◦ cleaning Cleaning
Cotton arrives in mills packed in bales ◦ Remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any
remaining seeds
Fibres removed from the bales with the help
of bale pluckers Prepared to be fed to the next stage i.e.
carding
Blended, opened and cleaned
Blending
◦ Cotton from different bales mixed to obtain
uniformity in fibre quality
Blowroom
Blowroom
Blowroom
Blowroom
Carding
Objective
◦ fibre disentanglement or individualization
◦ straightening & parallelization and
◦ removal of remaining trash
Carding
Carding
Drawframe
Objective
◦ Doubling
◦ Parallelization

Doubling
◦ Multiple slivers are combined (usually six) and drawn out (draft given slightly higher than the number of
slivers combined)
◦ Results in reduced unevenness of the card sliver and also carried out further the blending of the fibres

Parallelization
◦ As the sliver is drafted the fibres get aligned parallel to the sliver axis
Drawframe
Combing
Objectives Optional process, used only for the production
◦ Straightening of fine quality yarns
◦ Removal of short fibres i.e. yarns that are stronger, smoother and give
Straightening more serviceable fabrics
◦ during carding the fibres get hooked Combing allows to spin yarns of finer count
◦ Some of these hooked fibres get straightened which would otherwise not possible to
during their passage from the drawframe manufacture from the carded sliver
◦ Combing action removes majority of leading
hooks

Removal of short fibres

◦ Short fibres get combed out
◦ Called noils
Combing
Two step process
◦ Lap formation
◦ Combing process

Lap formation: Slivers are combined to form a

ribbon lap so that it can be fed to the comber
After combing, the combed slivers are passed
through Finisher Drawframe
Roving
Objective – to prepare the material for ring
spinning
Sliver drafted to a rove
Rove given a light twist to provide some
integrity to the rove
Excessive twist will cause drafting problems in
the ring spinning
Ring Spinning
Objectives
◦ To draft the material to its final fineness
◦ To insert the required amount of twist
◦ To wind of yarn onto a bobbin
Drafting the material – achieved by a drafting
roller system
Insertion of twist – achieved by a ring &
traveller system that rotates a very high speed
to insert the twist in the yarn
Winding of yarn on a bobbin – again achieved
by a ring & traveller system and bobbin
rotating at high speeds
Winding
Objectives
◦ to wind the yarn onto large packages so as to make them suitable to be used in subsequent processes
◦ To remove yarn faults like thick & thin places, knots etc
Winding onto large packages – the package size obtained from the ring frame is too small to be used
conveniently in subsequent processes
Wound onto large packages starting from 1kg.
Removal of yarn faults - while manufacturing defects get introduced in the yarn
Impair the quality of the yarn – visually and technically
Some of the defects get removed during winding on this machine
Splicing – joining of the broken yarn ends by means of air jets
Machine example - Autoconer
Open End Spinning
Limitations of conventional ring spinning system
◦ Small size of package
◦ Productivity
◦ Extra step of intermediate drafting – the roving frame

Three most popular technologies

◦ Rotor Spinning
◦ Friction Spinning
◦ Air Jet Spinning
Rotor Spinning
Used for the production of coarse yarns (up to
40)
Produced from carded sliver
A single spiked roller or a set of rollers open up
the fibres so that they can be fed virtually
individually into spinning operation
Sliver is broken apart hence the term open-
end
Separated fibres transported by air stream
Collected as a thin layer in a groove on the
inner surface of funnel shaped rotor
Rotor Spinning
◦ Rotor rotates at very high speed
◦ Centrifugal forces build up a multilayer of fibres
◦ Peeled away by the collecting groove as it is
simultaneously twisted and withdrawn
◦ Much larger spools can be directly made at this
machine unlike in the ring-spinning system
◦ Greater automation in yarn production
◦ Greater production economy
◦ Production rate 3-5 times than ring spinning
Rotor Spinning
Quality – better yarn elongation as compared
to ring spinning, overall yarn quality only as
good as ring spun yarn but not better
Quality – excellent dyeability particularly with
bright shades, better homogenization of
blends which is better than ring spinning
Quality – Twist in the yarn 20% higher than
ring spun yarn
Quality – weaker by 15-20% than ring spun
yarn due to coarseness
Quality – character of the yarn different from
ring spun yarn so they cannot be mixed
Limitations – problems in processing of 100%
manmade staple
Fibre finish applied on the fibres get deposited
in the rotor which causes clogging
Limitations – not possible to spin combed yarn
Sliver should be free from foreign
contaminants in order to operate the open-
end system efficiently
Power requirements increase geometrically
with increase in spun yarn count
Longer the staple, larger the rotor, lower the
speed of the rotor, reduced productivity
Rotor Spinning
Rotor Spinning
Air-Jet Spinning
Sliver drafted to a predetermined size
Passes into a cylindrical pneumatic twisting
chamber
Jets of compresses air released angled to the
yarn axis
Fibres whirled around each other and get
twisted
Yarn comes out of the first compartment
where it gets stabilized
Air-Jet Spinning
Quality
◦ Yarn of uniform diameter without thick and thin
places
◦ Harsher handle
◦ Yarn counts somewhat finer than produced by
open-end spinning
◦ Tensile strength lower than ring-spun yarn

Performs well in weaving and knitting but

durability is an issue
Air Jet Spinning
Air Jet Spinning
Friction Spinning
Patented by Dr. Ernst Fehrer
DREF Spinning machines
A variation of open-end spinning machines
Principle – the feed sliver is opened up to
individual fibres by a spiked roller (similar to
card drum)
The opened fibres are transported in an air
stream to roll nip of two perforated drum
rotating in the same direction
Friction Spinning
Action forces the fibres to be wedged along
the nip, getting compressed
Friction of the two rollers coupled by the
suction of air through the perforated drums
cause the fibres to twist around each other
Amount of twist controlled by regulating the
suction through the perforated rollers
Thickness of yarn controlled by the thickness
of the wedge in the yarn-forming nip and the
width of the nip itself
Friction Spinning
Advantages Disadvantage
◦ Fibre preparation costs lower as carded sliver ◦ Yarn may lack uniform distribution of twist
can be directly fed to the machine through the cross-section
◦ High speed elements required in ring spinning
and rotor spinning are eliminated Quality
◦ Bulky with surface and mechanical properties
◦ Lower yarn breakage as there is no tension in
similar to woollen yarns
the spinning zone
◦ Lower tensile strength
◦ Wide variety and quality of fibres can be used
independently or blended
 Friction Spinning
Production of core-spun yarn (Dref-III)
Core can either be a filament yarn or a staple fibres
Yarn properties similar to ring spun than rotor spun yarn
Wide variety of materials can be used – cotton, rayon, polyester, acrylic and polypropylene and their
blends
Count range 6-18’s
Complete Spinning
Other non-conventional spinning
methods
Self-twist spinning
Electrostatic spinning
Vortex Spinning
Twist less Spinning
Woollen & Worsted Spinning
Mainly used for wool and similar fibres
Basically designed for long staple fibres
Spinning machines similar to cotton spinning
used
Differences:
◦ Drawframe modified to accommodate longer
staple and in known as Gill Box
◦ Flyer Roving frame replaced by False Twist
Roving Frame
◦ Drafting systems modified to accommodate
longer staple fibres
Woollen and Worsted System
Three routes or systems
◦ Woollen System
◦ Worsted System
◦ Semi-worsted System
Woollen &
Worsted Spinning
System
Woollen & Worsted Spinning System
Wool Production
Yarn Quality Parameters/ Yarn Testing
Count
Twist
Strength
Elongation
Hairiness
Evenness
Yarn Count
Yarn count – relationship between weight and length of the yarn to indicate its thickness
Two systems
◦ Indirect System (Older method)
◦ Direct System (Newer method)

Indirect system based on length per unit weight system e.g. Cotton count
Direct system based on weight per unit length system e.g. Tex & Denier
In indirect system higher the count value finer the yarn and vice versa.
 Yarn Count
Yarn Number Symbolic Unit of Unit of Unit of Multiplying factor, Yarn
Direct Yarn

System Abbreviation length Mass Yarn Count Number to Tex

Count

Tex Tt 1Km 1gm Gm/Km -

Denier Td 9000m 1gm g/9000m 0.1111

Yarn Number Symbolic Unit of Unit of Unit of Constant for conversion to Tex
System Abbreviation length Mass Yarn Count
Indirect Yarn Count

Cotton Count NeC 840yd (hank) 1lb 840yd/lb 590.05

Woollen NaC 300yd 1lb 300yd/lb 1654.0
(American Run)
Worsted NeW 560yd 1lb 560yd/lb 885.8
Linen NeL 300yd 1lb 300yd/lb 1654.0
Metric Nm 1Km 1Kg Km/Kg 1000.0
Yarn Count
Calculation of yarn count
◦ A lea of 120 yards weigh 0.03lb. Calculate cotton count.
◦ A skein of 100m of filament viscose weighs 1.67g. Calculate its denier
◦ 20 yarns of 5” weigh 10gm. Calculate its Tex.
◦ A hank of length 120yd weigh 1.08gm. Calculate Cotton count
◦ 45 yarns of 20” weigh 200gm. Calculate Cotton Count
Yarn Count
Determination of yarn count
Yarn available in package form
◦ Count determined using Wrap Reel
◦ Each 80 revolutions of the wrap reel winds
120yd of the yarn (known as a lea)
◦ Length wound can be adjusted as per the count
to be measured
Yarn Count
Yarn available in short lengths e.g. from fabrics
◦ Samples are cut from the fabrics 20” long and wide enough so as to provide 50 threads from each strip
◦ 2 samples in the warp direction and 5 samples in the weft direction
◦ 50 threads removed from each sample
◦ These are crimped so their straightened length measured either by a rough crimp check using a ruler or
by a crimp tester
◦ 𝐶𝑟𝑖𝑚𝑝 % = × 100
( %)
◦ 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ = 𝑆𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑝 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ × 𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑡ℎ𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑑𝑠 ×
Yarn Count
Beasley Balance
◦ Used to read the count directly for small sized
samples
◦ Instrument consists of a simple beam
◦ Beam initially levelled to bring the pointer
opposite to the datum line
◦ A standard weight hung on the beam at the
pointer side of the pivot
◦ Template used to cut short lengths of yarn
depending on the count system required
◦ These short lengths are added to the hook until
the pointer is again opposite the datum line
◦ Count is the number of short lengths required to
balance the beam
Yarn Twist
Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given
to a yarn in order to hold the constituent
fibres or threads together
Expressed in TPI (Twists per inch) or TPM
(Twists per meter) or TPCM
Twist Direction
◦ Two types – Z and S

When two single yarns are combined they are

again twisted together
Normally they are twisted in a direction
opposite to the twist direction of single yarn
Yarn Twist
Measurement of Twist
Straightened fibre method
◦ A sample of yarn untwisted to an extent that the fibres in the yarn are parallel to the yarn axis

Twist Contraction method

◦ When a sample of yarn is untwisted it increases in length and when it is re-twisted in the opposite
direction it returns to its original length

Twist to break test

Twist measurement by microscope
Yarn Twist
Twist measurement of plied yarns
Straightened yarn method
◦ Complete removal of twist readily judged by the passing a needle between the component threads

Take-up twist testers

◦ Based on the difference in length between the twisted and untwisted thread
◦ Records both the twist and the change in length of the thread upon untwisting

Quadrant Twist Testers

Yarn Hairiness
Fibres protruding out from the main body of
the yarn is called hairiness.
Importance of yarn hairiness:
◦ Usually an undesirable property
◦ gives rise to problems in fabric production
◦ deteriorates the fabric appearance.

Measurement of hairiness dependent on the

method chosen for detecting the hairs.
Yarn Hairiness
In natural short staple yarns hairiness occurs Not possible to represent hairiness with a
due to single parameter
◦ wide differences in fibre thickness, maturity ◦ Because the number of hairs and the length of
◦ inadequate spinning process hairs both vary independently.
◦ A yarn may have a small number of long hairs or
In filament yarns hairiness occurs due to a large number of short hairs or any combination
◦ weak monofilaments in between
◦ inadequate finish ◦ Usually there are more hairs in a fine yarn than
◦ rough surfaces there are in a coarse one of the same type.
◦ loose running monofilaments which break at The problem is then which combination should
subsequent process be given a higher hairiness rating.
Yarn Hairiness
Significance of Hairiness:
◦ It causes problems in printing.
◦ Fine designs are difficult to make.
◦ Machine parts life is reduced.
◦ Benefits – Flannel type fabrics
Adverse effects of Hairiness
◦ Low strength in yarns
◦ Sizing - If yarn is fuzzy, size material will not
penetrate to required amount and a greater
amount will accumulate on yarn surface (coating
is more and penetration is less)
◦ Shedding problems – Clear shed is not produced.
◦ Similarly if fabric density is more the two
consecutive yarns cause problems due to
hairiness
◦ Wear out – The machine parts; drop wires, heald
wires and reed.
◦ Knitting – In knitting needles are worn out
quickly.
◦ Fibre shedding – Protruding fibres are pulled out
by rubbing and friction with other surfaces,
creates problems of fibre deposits in various
parts of machines
Shirley Yarn Hairiness Tester
Consists of a light beam shining on a small
diameter photoreceptor opposite to it
Yarn under test is run between the light and
the receptor at a constant speed
As a hair passes between the light and
receptor the light beam is momentarily broken
and an electronic circuit counts the
interruption as one hair
Total number of hairs in a fixed length of yarn
is counted
 Zweigle Hairiness Tester
Apparatus counts the number of hairs at distances
from 1-25mm from the yarn edge
Hairs are counted simultaneously by a set of
photocells which are arranged at 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10,
12, 15, 18, 21, and 25mm from the yarn
Yarn illuminated from the opposite side of the
photocells
As the yarn runs past the measuring station the
hairs cut the light off momentarily from the
photocells, which causes the electrical circuits to
count in a similar manner to that of the Shirley
instrument
The instrument measures the total number of hairs
in each length category for the set test length.
The yarn speed is fixed at 50m/min but the length
of yarn tested may be varied.
Uster Tester 3 (Hairiness meter
attachment)
Optional attachment for UT3 evenness tester
Parallel beam of IR-light illuminates the yarn as
it runs through the measuring head
Direct light blocked from reaching the detector
Only light that is scattered by fibres protruding
from the main body of the yarn reaches the
detector.
Amount of scattered light is the measure of
hairiness and it is converted to an electric
signal by the apparatus
Uster Tester 3 (Hairiness meter
attachment)
It is thus monitoring total hairiness
Uster Tester data collection system can
monitor changes in hairiness along the yarn by
means of a diagram, CV of hairiness, mean
hairiness in a manner similar to that used in
Evenness Testing
Hairiness Index (H) – Total length of the
protruding fibres with reference to the sensing
length of 1cm of yarn (dimensionless)
Yarn Hairiness Testing
Yarn Evenness
Concerned with degree of uniformity in the Types of irregularity
products of various machines used in the ◦ Weight per unit length
formation of yarn ◦ Diameter
100% uniformity not possible ◦ Twist
◦ Strength
Staple fibres especially of natural origin have ◦ Hairiness
variability in fineness, maturity, length, colour,
diameter etc. ◦ Colour

Taking them and forming a yarn of uniform
character not possible
Efforts are directed to design systems to produce
yarns whose regularity approaches ideal
Weight per unit length
◦ Basic irregularity in yarn
◦ All other irregularities are dependent on it
◦ Variability directly dependent on proportional to
the number of fibres in the cross-section of yarn
◦ Proper control on drafting essential
Yarn Evenness
Diameter
◦ Most easily perceived by the eye
◦ Has profound influence of appearance of yarn
◦ Caused by variability in weight per unit length
◦ Twist tends to run into thin places exaggerating
the variability in diameter
Twist
◦ Influence on performance of yarn and fabric
dyeability and defects
◦ Low twist areas are the major cause of breaks in
weaving preparatory and loom shed
◦ Low twist yarns take more dye and so cause
uneven dyeing by high twist variation
◦ Weft bars and bands are also caused by low
twisted yarns
Yarn Evenness
Strength
◦ Yarn breaks at the weakest element
◦ Dependent on variability in count, spinning
conditions and mechanical defects
Hairiness
◦ Streaky appearance in warp and weft bars in
weft are caused by variation in hairiness
◦ Results in disturbance in warp shed movement
Colour
◦ Cause variation in fabric colour
◦ Checking of colour before manufacturing of yarn
and
◦ Large lot sizes made from a large number of
bales mitigate this problem
Causes of irregularity
◦ Caused by raw material, fibre arrangement, fibre
behaviour, inherent shortcoming of machinery,
mechanically defective machinery
Yarn Evenness
Nature of irregularity Classification of variation
◦ Short term variations – 1 to 10 times the fibre ◦ Random variation
length ◦ Periodic variation
◦ Medium term variation – 10 to 100 times the
fibre length Random variation
◦ Long term variation – 100 to 1000 times the ◦ No particular pattern in the defects
fibre length
Periodic variation
◦ Defect repeats periodically usually associated
with a defect in the machinery
Yarn Evenness
Methods of measurement
◦ Visual methods – blackboards, drums,
photographic devices, projection etc.
◦ Cutting and weighing methods – lap scales, lap
meters, sliver testers, hank wrapping, count
variation, short cut lengths
◦ Electronic capacitance testers – Uster, Fielden-
Walker
◦ Photoelectric testers – WIRA photoelectric
tester, LINRA tester
◦ Miscellaneous methods – airflow, mercury
displacement
Yarn Evenness
Electronic Capacitance Method
◦ E.g. Uster Evenness Testers
◦ Yarn passed continuously through a parallel
plate condenser
◦ Change in capacitance monitored electronically
◦ Sensors available for evaluating evenness of
different materials like lap, sliver, roving and yarn

Uster Classimat Classification of faults

◦ Uster Classimat-II – 23 categories of faults
◦ Uster Classimat-III – 33 categories of faults
Yarn Evenness
Yarn Strength
Can be carried out on a single strand or on a
skein
Parameters observed while testing
◦ Breaking load
◦ Elongation at break

Instruments used classified into three groups

◦ CRE – Constant Rate of Elongation
◦ CRL – Constant Rate of Loading
◦ CRT – Constant Rate of Traverse
Yarn Strength
All instruments consists of two jaws – the
upper and lower jaw
One of the jaw is fixed and the other movable
Constant Rate of Elongation
◦ Instrument designed to load the material in a
way to give a constant rate of elongation
◦ Fixed jaw is rigid without any possibility of
movement
◦ Second jaw moves away at a constant rate
resulting in a constant rate of elongation test
Yarn Strength
Constant Rate of Loading
◦ Instrument designed to load the material in a
way to give a constant rate of loading

Constant Rate of Traverse

◦ Movable jaw moves away at a constant rate
◦ Load is applied on the specimen through the
movement of the second jaw which actuates a
loading mechanism to put load on the specimen
being tested
Yarn Strength
Uster Single Thread Strength Tester
◦ Automatic single thread tester
◦ Yarn threaded the first time
◦ Instrument automatically carries out the
functions of testing, recording, removal of
broken yarn, threading up the next test length
Uster Tensorapid
Properties of Yarns
Properties of yarn depend on Selection of yarns for fabrics depends on
◦ Composition of fibre ◦ Performance expectation of fabric
◦ Length of fibre (staple or filament) ◦ End use of fabric
◦ Type of yarn (spun or filament) ◦ Type of fabric
◦ Count ◦ Need or demand of fabric
◦ Number of strands of yarn (single or plied) ◦ Cost of fabric
◦ Amount of yarn twist
◦ Direction of yarn twist
◦ Construction of yarn (simple, complex, textured)
Spun yarn
Composed of staple fibres More imperfections or irregularities
Made from natural cotton, flax, or wool staple More amount of twist than filament yarns
fibres
Dull appearance than filament yarns
Made from natural (silk) or manmade
filaments which are cut in to short lengths Rough or soft to touch depends on amount of
twist
Bulkier than filament yarns
Provide good covering power
More hairiness and fuzzy appearance
Fibre ends protrude from surface throughout
the length
Ring Spun Yarn
High parallelisation of fibres Poor evenness; More imperfections and
irregularities
Helical orientation of fibres in all areas
Low thermal insulation
Compact yarn structure
Produce wide range of yarn counts
High yarn hairiness
Can be used in wide range of end uses like
Low yarn stiffness fabrics for apparel, home furnishings and
Good yarn strength and abrasion resistance industrial applications.
Carded & Combed Yarns
Characteristics of carded yarns
◦ Made from short staple cotton fibres
◦ Coarser or thicker yarns
◦ Uneven yarn; more imperfections /irregularities
◦ Produce loose or napped fabric structure
◦ Dull appearance or uneven look

Characteristics of combed yarns

◦ Made from long staple cotton fibres
◦ Smooth and finer yarn
◦ More uniformity
◦ less imperfections and irregularities
◦ More bright and even look
Open-end or Rotor Spun Yarns
Low parallelisation of fibres; Helical Moderate insulation; High pilling propensity
orientation of fibres in inner core
Fair surface roughness
Less compact yarn structure
Moderate thermal retention; Better softness.
Low yarn hairiness; More rigid
Produced only coarser yarn counts; Medium -
Poor yarn strength; Better abrasion resistance Heavy weight apparel and home furnishing
Better evenness; Less imperfections and
irregularities
Dref/ Air-Jet Spun Yarns
Parallelisation of fibres
◦ high at yarn core and
◦ less at yarn edge
◦ axial orientation in yarn core
Less Compact yarn structure.
Low yarn hairiness
Low yarn stiffness
Yarn strength
◦ better than OE-spun
◦ inferior than ring spun;
◦ less evenness than OE- spun yarn
Imperfections and irregularities
◦ More than OE-spun
◦ better than ring spun yarn
High abrasion resistance
Good insulation.
Dref/ Air-Jet Spun Yarns
Pilling propensity less than OE- spun
Medium surface roughness
Best thermal retention
Better softness than OE & ring spun yarn
Yarn count
◦ not as fine as ring spun yarn
◦ but finer than OE spun
◦ can be used apparel, bedding and furnishing
fabrics
Woollen & Worsted Yarns
Characteristics of Woollen Yarns
◦ Made from short staple wool fibres
◦ Coarse / bulky / thicker/ fuzzy yarns; More
hairiness
◦ Uneven yarn; more imperfections/irregularities
◦ Produce loose or napped fabric structure
◦ Dull appearance or Uneven look
◦ Produce good insulating properties and
providing warmth
◦ Resist wrinkling and do not maintain desired
crease
Characteristics of Worsted Yarns
◦ Made from long staple wool fibres
◦ Smooth, finer yarns and highly twisted; More
uniformity/ less imperfections and irregularities
◦ Good insulating properties & providing less
warmth
◦ Maintain desired creases and offers better
formability and shape retention
Ply Yarns
Two or more yarns twisted together In woollen and worsted system – 2/60 two
singles of 60’s woollen count plied and twisted
2-ply, 3-ply and so on together
Enhanced durability as compared to the Resultant count – 30
singles yarn
In denier – 300-10-½ Z means 10 filaments of
Expression of ply yarn 30 denier each combined to give 300 denier
In cotton system – 30/2 means two singles of yarn ½ TPI Z twist
30’s cotton count plied and twisted together
Resultant count – 15
Cabled & Doubled Yarns
Cabled yarns
◦ Two or more plied yarns twisted together
◦ Generally constructed by twisting the plied yarns
around each other successively in the opposite
direction of the preceding yarn
◦ i.e. S/Z/S or Z/S/Z
◦ Cause the plies to grip each other and maintain
adherence
◦ Yarns are hard, rough and strong
Doubled yarns
◦ Two or more single yarns treated as one in the
weaving process
◦ Yarns are not twisted together
◦ Used for ornamental effect
◦ Produce lustre and softness
Monofilament Yarn
Yarns composed of only one filament which
cannot be separated
Extrusion of filaments through the spinneret
containing only one hole
Each filament wound on a separate package
Multifilament Yarn
Yarns composed of many filaments
Extrusion of filaments through the spinneret
containing many holes
Filaments from many spinnerets may be
combined to form a yarn and then wound on
the package
Characteristics
◦ Made from silk or manmade filament fibres
◦ Fine, smooth and more pliable than spun yarns
◦ More uniform in diameter than spun yarns
◦ Provides lustrous and shiny appearance
◦ Produce high yarn and seam slippage
◦ Poor covering power
◦ Stronger than spun yarns of same diameter and
fibre content
Textured Yarns
Synthetic yarns characteristics limited by the
thickness, length and surface texture
Texturing provides opportunity for variation in
fabric properties not possible by conventional
synthetic yarns
Results from physical, chemical and thermal
manipulation of filament yarns
Better covering power than untextured yarns
Texture varies from soft to crisp
Spongy and springy feel
Good stretch and elongation recovery
Textured Yarns
Better shape retention
Good resistance to creasing and wrinkling
Better strength and abrasion resistance
Higher bulk without added weight
Provides insulating properties
Improves resistance to yarn and seam slippage
Improved absorbency and dyeing properties
Better dimensional stability and opaque fabric
structure
Generally grouped into 3 categories – stretch,
high bulk and loop yarns
Stretch Yarns
Five types
◦ Those made by giving special mechanical heat-setting treatment to thermoplastic filament fibres e.g.
nylon, polyester
◦ Those made of elastomeric fibres
◦ Those made of bi-component fibres
◦ Those made of bi-constituent fibres
◦ Specially chemically treated natural fibres e.g. cotton
Stretch Yarns
Heat-Set Thermoplastic yarns
◦ Various methods available for imparting crimp to thermoplastic fibres
◦ Crimp increases the ability of the material to stretch to a greater length than otherwise possible with a
straight filament
◦ Using proper heat-setting treatments the crimp remains more or less permanent that can withstand
washing, dry-cleaning, stretching or compressing
◦ Texturing also alters the aesthetic, comfort and other properties of the synthetic fibres
◦ Makes it dull and soft, increases absorbency, increased bulk traps more air resulting in improved
thermal retention
◦ Greater comfort, shape retention and wrinkle resistance
Stretch Yarns
False Twist Method
Stretch Yarns
Stuffer Box Method
Stretch Yarns
Gear Method
Stretch Yarns
Knit-Deknit method
Stretch Yarns
Novelty Yarns
Bi-component and Bi-constituent yarns
Bi-component yarns – composed of two different varieties of polymer in the same filament yarn
Methods of formation
◦ Extrusion of polymers side by side from a spinneret having arrangement of the extrusion of polymer
side by side
◦ Extrusion of polymer one inside the other from a spinneret having one hole inside the other giving a
core-sheath structure
◦ Many other structures are also possible

Bi-constituent yarns – Extrusion of the filament in which droplets of one polymer is distributed
in the other resulting in a yarn composed of matrix or conglomerate of minute, short strands of
one fibre suspended inside the other variety
High Bulk Yarns
Relatively thick and soft Produces a soft, bulky but lightweight stretch
yarns
May have additional character of stretch
Have the soft hand of wool or cashmere
Usually made of acrylic
Crimped fibres form air spaces within the thick
May be blended with either man-made or yarns thus providing insulation
natural fibres
Good water absorbency
Blend of stretched fibres and unrelaxed fibres
with stretched and relaxed fibres Do not feel clammy when wet
During subsequent heat treatments such as Dry more quickly than wool fabrics
heat setting or dyeing – stretched fibres shrink
May form pills during washing and use
Causes the stretched and relaxed fibres to
crimp and curl Light brushing will help reduce the pilling
Loop Bulk (Air-Jet) Yarns
Made of any continuous filament fibres such as
rayon, acetate, nylon or polyester
Textured appearance and hand resemble that of
cotton or fine wool
Process involve passing the smooth filament yarn
across high pressure air jets
Cause the individual filaments to loop up and
become tangled
A permanent textured surface of randomly
situated tiny loops develops along the yarn
Different textures and effects possible – size of
the loops, closeness of the loops, yarn size,
amount of twist, number of plies, nature of plies
Loop Bulk (Air-Jet) Yarns
Bouclé yarns, core and effect yarns can be
produced by twisting loop-bulk yarns around
spun yarns
Yarns are dull, have fuzzy look or rough
appearance and texture of staple yarns
Lightweight and provide high cover power; in the
range of 50-150% of the parent yarn
Have little stretch
Garments launder and dry-clean readily, dry
quickly, need little or no ironing
Air spaces provide for moisture absorption and
some insulation
Novelty Yarns
Spinning systems can be utilized to produce decorative effects by varying the amount of twist or
by twisting yarns of different diameters together or yarns with a different amount of twist
Enable to manufacture fabrics with endless textural effects of various colour combination
E.g. slub yarns; flake yarns; spiral yarns; ratine yarns; bouclé, loop or curl yarns; nub, knop, knot
or spot yarns; chenille yarns etc.
Novelty Yarns
Construction
◦ Base yarn – to control length and stability
◦ Effect yarn – to add texture and stability
◦ Binder yarn – to hold effect yarn with base yarn
Novelty Yarns
Slub yarns
◦ Have soft, untwisted areas at frequent intervals
◦ Coarse with slight twist having varying diameters
showing irregularities typical of an incomplete
spinning operation
Novelty Yarns
Flake yarns
◦ Variations of slub yarns
◦ Made by inserting soft thick tufts of roving
between binder yarns
◦ Yarn of varying thickness and softness

Spiral/cock screw/eccentric yarns

◦ A coarse yarn wound over a fine yarn
◦ Gives an appearance of spiral
◦ Thicker yarn given a slack twist and wound
spirally around fine yarns which is given a hard
twist
Novelty Yarns
Ratiné Yarns
◦ Variation of spiral yarns
◦ Outer yarn wound spirally over the core yarn
◦ At intervals a longer loop is thrown out by the
outer yarn
◦ The loop kinks back on itself and is held in place
by a third binder yarn
◦ Binder added in a second twisting operation in
twist direction opposite to the outer yarn
Novelty Yarns
Bouclé, loop or curl yarns
◦ Comparable to ratiné yarns
◦ Surface is softer and more pronounced novelty
effect
◦ Accomplished by allowing one of the plies to
remain slack during twisting
◦ Causes to twist on itself and form a loop
Novelty Yarn
Nub, Knop, Knot or Spot yarns
◦ By twisting the effect ply around the core ply
many times within a very short space
◦ Causing bumps or subs that may be spaced at
intervals along the yarn
◦ Variations – two effect plies, each of different
colours, may be used
◦ Nubs can be arranged so that colour are
alternated
◦ A binder thread may also be used
Types and Characteristics of Yarn
Chenille yarns
◦ Has a soft , fuzzy, lofty, springy, surface
◦ Achieved by a core of two yarns plied together
and firmly holding together tufts of soft twisted
yarn between the twists along the core’s length
Blended Yarns
Blend, Mixture and Combination
◦ Blend – intimate mixture of fibres of different
generic type, composition, length, diameter,
colour etc. spun together into one yarn
◦ Mixture – yarns of different generic types within
a fabric in warp and weft
◦ Combination – ply yarns in which one
component is of a different generic type than
the other components of the ply yarns
Reasons for blending
◦ Performance – to produce fabrics with a better
combination of performance characteristics
Reasons for blending
◦ Performance – blends usually never perform as
well as in the areas of positive performance as
fabrics of only one fibre
◦ Performance – blends help to compensate for
the poor performance
◦ Performance – polyester/cotton, polyester/wool,
nylon/wool blends
◦ Performance – Improved durability as a result of
increase strength and abrasion resistance from
synthetic fibres
Blended Yarns
Reasons for blending
◦ Process efficiency – improve spinning, weaving
and finishing efficiency
◦ Aesthetics – better texture, hand or fabric
appearance
◦ Aesthetics – small amount of cashmere in wool
fabrics to give the fabrics a buttery or slick hand
◦ Aesthetics – small amount of rayon in cotton to
five softness and lustre
Reasons for blending
◦ Minimize fibre cost – expensive fibres can be
blended with less expensive fibres
◦ Minimize fibre cost – polyester/wool
Cross-dyed or unique colour effects such as
heather – blending of fibres with different dye
affinity and subsequently dyed
Blended Yarns
Other Links
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