Motions of The Ocean

Philippine Science High School
Earth Science Learning Guide

Guide Code: 12 Oceans and ENSO
Lesson Code: 12.1 Motions of the Ocean Time Limit 30 min
TARGET
After you complete this module, you are expected to:

1. Explain how the different ocean waves are formed; and
2. Describe how ocean current affect global climate.
HOOK
The shoreline is a very dynamic place
where the results of the actions of
ocean waves are evident. As waves
reach the shore, some of the materials
(mostly sand) are eroded and
transported to other parts of the
beach. Some sand particles are
carried by water to the deeper parts of
the sea while others get deposited and
piled up on the shorelines. The
picture on the right shows how
breaking waves affect the coastal
areas. In this learning guide we are
going to determine how waves are
created, and how it affects other earth
processes. Figure 1 "Beach" by barnyz is licensed with CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.
Source: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.0/
IGNITE
HOW DO WAVES FORM?
The energy that affects the materials

on the beach comes from the ocean
waves that breaks along the shore.
As wind blows to a body of water,
the wind energy is transferred to the
receiving ocean or lake, through
friction. The height of the ocean
wave is controlled by three factors:
wind speed; the duration of the wind;
and the distance that wind blows
over the ocean or lake. Figure 2 Orbital motion of water wave
Source: Physical Geology 15th Ed. By Plummer, Carlson, and Hammersley
Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 1 of 7

© 2020 Philippine Science High School System. All rights reserved. This document may contain proprietary information and may only be
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Figure 3 Parts of a Wave
The wave height is the measured distance from the crest (the peak or highest point of a wave),
and the trough (the lowest portion of a wave). In an open ocean, typical waves have a height of roughly
0.3 to 5 meters. However, during thunderstorms and other similar extreme weather conditions, waves
can reach as high as 15 meters. On the other hand, wavelength is the distance between two adjacent
crests, or it could also be equivalent to the distance between two adjacent troughs.
OCEAN WAVES IN THE SURF ZONE
As ocean waves travel from the deep part of the ocean towards the shoreline, the circular orbital
motion of the waves, as seen in Figure 4, starts the feel the sloping ocean bottom. The first wave starts
to “feel bottom” once the depth of the ocean bottom is equal to the half of the wavelength. When this
happens, the presence of the ocean bottom flattens the ocean’s circular orbital wave, and as it reaches
the shore, the flatted orbital wave is pushed upward by the ocean bottom’s sloping wedge, resulting
to an increase in the ocean’s wave height. As the height continues to increase, the wave topples down
resulting to the formation of a breaker. A surf is a collective term for all the breakers associated within
a particular area, and they are generally formed and observed in the surf zone.
Figure 4 Formation of a breaker


Figure 5 A surfer riding the breaking waves
Source: "Surf in Boucan Canot" by Fathzer is
licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
WAVE REFRACTION AND LONGSHORE CURRENT
Figure 6 Wave Refraction

Wave refraction is associated with the bending of ocean waves as it reaches the shoreline. In
most cases, the wave crest hits the shoreline at an angle (see figure 6), which means that the breaking
of ocean waves is done one after another (or progressively) along the shore. This happens when the first
orbital wave feels bottom, and slows down, while the rest of the orbital waves continues traversing the
ocean at its deep-water speed. As the number of slowing orbital waves increases, it results to change in
the direction and bends to a direction more parallel to the shoreline. Since water waves hit the shoreline
at an angle, some of the water are pushed towards the shore, and some are travelling parallel to the
shore. The general term for the moving water that travels parallel to the shoreline is Longshore
currents. Riptides or rip currents are the waters that move towards the ocean after a breaking wave.

Figure 8 Rip currents warning
Figure 7 Rip Current and Longshore Currents
Source: CC BY-SA 2.0. To view
Source: Physical Geology 15th Ed. By Plummer, Carlson, and
https://creativecommons.org/licens
Hammersley
es/by-sa/2.0/
OCEAN CIRCULAR PATTERNS
Upwelling
The movement of ocean surface

current along the coast leads to an ocean
circulation process known as upwelling.
This usually results from the Coriolis
effect, and it is common in the west coast
of major continents, where warm water
moves towards the equator, and the cold
water beneath the thermocline moves up
to the surface. The movement of cold
waters to lower latitudes (near or on the
equator) affects the heat budget of the
earth. In other words, the upwelling in
the tropical region cools the areas found
in the tropics.
Figure 9. Upwelling of cold water
Source: NOAA Ocean Explorer

Thermohaline circulation
One of the major circulation processes that happens on earth is a direct result of the difference
in ocean water’s temperature and salinity which in turn cause changes in density. Thermohaline
circulation, also known as thermohaline conveyor belt, transports warm water around the planet in
surface currents and cold water in deep currents. The process occurs in a relatively slow pace; however,
it moves large volumes of water, and in turn transports heat, nutrients, and other materials in far
distances. The process plays significant role in supplying heat to the colder areas of the planet such as
the polar region. It influences the rate of formation sea ice in the poles, which in turn affects other
climatic aspects such as albedo. The movement is shown in the figure below:
Figure 10. Thermohaline circulation.

NAVIGATE
Read the questions below and write your answers in the space provided (NON-GRADED):
____________________1. The formation of breaking waves is associated with the increase of _____,
____________________2. Which type of rock (igneous, metamorphic, or sedimentary) dominates

the coastline?
____________________3. Based on Figure 10, what happens to warm surface water as it reaches
some part of Europe?
____________________4. What process is associated with the movement of warm surface water
towards the equator?
____________________5. The removal of sand as waves hit the shore is an example of what
sedimentary process?
Figure 10 Thermohaline Circulation

KNOT Source: Illustration by Wiley, Composition
Services Graphics
• Ocean waves are created by the transfer of energy from the wind to the ocean waters.
• The surf zone is characterized by breaking waves which are formed when the orbital
circulation pattern in the waves starts to feel the ocean bottom, increases it height, and
topples down.
• Wave refraction happens when the first orbital wave feels bottom, and slows down, while
the rest of the orbital waves continues traversing the ocean at its deep-water speed. As
the number of slowing orbital waves increases, it results to change in the direction and
bends to a more parallel direction to the shoreline.
• Longshore currents are currents that moves parallel to the shoreline, formed when water
waves hit the shoreline at an angle where some of the water are pushed towards the shore,
and some are travelling parallel to the shore. Rip currents or riptides, on the other hand,
are the waters that move towards the ocean after a breaking wave.
• Upwelling is the movement of cold water towards the surface as warm waters moves
towards the equator. The thermohaline circulation is the movement of cold and warm
water throughout the planet, as a direct result of temperature difference and salinity.

References:
Albarico, J.M. (2013). THINK Framework. Based on Ramos, E.G. and N. Apolinario (n.d.) Science
LINKS. Quezon City: Rex Bookstore Inc
Plummer, C., Carlson, D., & Hammersley, L. (2015). Physical Geology (15th ed.). McGraw-Hill
Education.
Spooner, A. (2016, March 26). Patterns of Ocean Circulation. Dummies.

https://www.dummies.com/education/science/environmental-science/patterns-of-ocean-
circulation/
Prepared by: Alan Royce B. Tizon Reviewed by: Edman H. Gallamaso

Position: SST I Position: SST V
Campus: SMC Campus: SRC


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Philippine Science High School

Earth Science Learning Guide

After you complete this module, you are expected to:

HOW DO WAVES FORM?

The energy that affects the materials

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 1 of 7

OCEAN WAVES IN THE SURF ZONE

Figure 4 Formation of a breaker

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 2 of 7

WAVE REFRACTION AND LONGSHORE CURRENT

Figure 6 Wave Refraction

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 3 of 7

OCEAN CIRCULAR PATTERNS

The movement of ocean surface

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 4 of 7

Figure 10. Thermohaline circulation.

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 5 of 7

____________________2. Which type of rock (igneous, metamorphic, or sedimentary) dominates

Figure 10 Thermohaline Circulation

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 6 of 7

Spooner, A. (2016, March 26). Patterns of Ocean Circulation. Dummies.

Prepared by: Alan Royce B. Tizon Reviewed by: Edman H. Gallamaso

Earth Science Motions of the Ocean Page 7 of 7

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