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Zoroastrian Glow in Azerbaijan 1
Zoroastrian Glow in Azerbaijan 1
Zoroastrian Glow in Azerbaijan 1
Azerbaijani people today present their country as ‘the land of fires.’ One of the
former names of Azerbaijan was Media-Athropathena.16 Athropat, in Avestan
Athravan, means one tending a fire,17 which could be a function of a Zoroastrian
priest. This name suits the country rich with ever-burning fires fed by natural gases.
These fires were called ateshi Bagavan, God’s fires; name Bagavan was the former
name of present capital of Azerbaijan, Baku.18 The name of the ancient country of
Media comes from the title magi, known as a priest worshiping Ahura Mazda.19
The ‘Tat’, southwest Iranian-speaking area, spread from Absheron peninsula
to Derbend, now in Russia, has most likely been Zoroastrian.20 Under Sasanian
reign multiple ateshgahs, fire temples, were built 21and some remain till the present
time. The fire temple of Surakhana, formerly built on the source of seven natural
ever burning fires,22 shared by Hindu and Zoroastrians pilgrims, has become one of
the core cultural attractions. President Ilham Aliev lit up a torch from Surakhana
fire to start the first European Olympic Games held in Baku. The present Surakhana
site displays a Zoroastrian exhibition.23
Fire Representations
Two buildings, one historical, The Maiden Tower, and one contemporary, the Flame
Towers are the architectural emblems of Baku. A prominent Parsi scholar Dr. J.J.
Modi, visited Baku claiming that The Maiden Tower with seven layers and seven
pipes supplying seven fires with naphtha gas served earlier as an ateshgah, a
Zoroastrian fire temple.24 The Maiden Tower, designed with precise astronomical
knowledge, is also viewed as former observatory. At the spring equinox, Novruz,
light shines in through particular openings. Local perception renders that Maiden
Tower is built in a shape of a flame. The same characteristic but a form25 of the fire
flame is also featured on the Azerbaijani passport.
One known tower, the Sohub-Budug dakhma,26 called Sukut Qala, the Tower
of Silence stands as a testimony to Zoroastrian burial practices. The rugged Shah
Dag Mountains hide the highest world ateshgah.27Azerbaijani aeronautic engineer
Farroukh Jorat restored its Iranian chahar taq28ancient form with the support of
WZO29 and the Khinalug30 people. (Pic -2) In September 2018, Farroukh Jorat
accompanied our Zoroastrian tour up to the ateshgah. Canadian priest Kobad Zarolia
sang Avestan hymns over the hot flames lighting up the darkness. After hundreds of
years Zoroastrians revisited31 the sacred ancient fire in the wilderness.
When our group returned to Baku, the Institute of Multiculturalism 32welcomed
us over armud stekan, a pear shaped glass of hot tea. They prepared a speech
openly affirming that Azerbaijan used to be Zoroastrian. In support they listed the
precise facts of the internet articles on The Zoroastrian Heritage of Azerbaijan by
K.J. Eduljee.33 In the Azerbaijani Academy of Sciences, Department of Oriental
HimalayanandCentralAsianStudies Vol. 25, Nos. 1-3, January-Sept. 2021 133
Pic 1: The World’s highest ateshgah in Khinalig (Photo by Benedict Peshl)
On the one hand, the government recognizes Lahij for its Eastern architectural style
and gave it a status of a historical preserve.36 On the other hand, it is not understood
yet that it is possible to explore an ancient Iranian heritage37 of Azerbaijan through
an authentic way of life. Within the overwhelming Azerbaijanization, the Lahij people
form one of the most striking exceptions to assimilation. Their endangered language,
however, could be soon lost and their fragile identity could erode. Yet the Lahij
Ethic Parallels
“Religion should be such that its ideals can be applied to our work-a day
world.”
— M.A. Buch.42
Knowing the transforming power of a timely good word,63 the Loyishihon, Lahijans,
have kept alive the archaic genre of blessings. To respond with a blessing to daily
occurrences is as natural as breathing. People use certain formulas corresponding
to various situations. People working on the streets or in their courtyards could be
stacking wood, making copperware, tools, nails, or horse gear, putting horseshoes
on a horse, selling spices, herbs and jams, knitting socks or making a carpet… The
proper blessing, when seeing people work, is Xudo körtıra ovənd sozı, Xudo zihr
tı. It means, may God make the work of your hands prosper, advance, may God give
you strength. In similar context, the Azeri functional equivalent would be
Yorulmayasiz, may you not grow tired or Işiniz avand olsun, may you progress in
your work.
When someone is leaving or embarking upon a new venture the blessing,
Xudo rah tı! May God open the way for you, naturally follows. The Azeri equivalent
is, Yol açıq olsun! May a way be opened before you! May you succeed! One who
receives help or a gift or kindness of any kind, thanks the giver with, Xudo tıra
xoşbəxt sozı, Xudo oxırttıra xəyir sozı, May God make you happy, May God let
you have a good end,64 and in Azeri, Sag olun, Be healthy, which is also a politeness
formula for ‘thank you.’
Both the Lahij and Azeri languages use parallel blessings within same contexts.
While comparing, striking difference between Lahij and Azeri formulas emerges.
The Lahij language includes Xudo, God, in almost every blessing. This reveals
awareness of Qismət a Xudo, every good gift, comes from God. Yet the Azeri
variations sometimes omit mentioning God. The most powerful Lahij blessing is
Xudo cuntıra sox sozı! May God revive your soul and make it wholesome! The
Azeri shortens it to Cansaglıgý!, May your soul be well. This process could be
assessed as a change reducing the older genre into ‘well wishing.’ Since the Lahij
blessings kept a fuller thought, confirming and venerating the agency of God, it
implies that the Iranian form is probably older than the Turkic.65
Sharing the same cultural landscape for many centuries the Iranian and Turkic66
ways became intertwined. The habitual use of blessings could be one piece of
evidence pointing to a belief system, stemming from one root. The seminal research
of Mary Boyce, among practicing Zoroastrians in Yazd, offers a possible resemblance
to an earlier sacred genre or religious observance. This was the Avestan vaj, in
Persian baj, meaning word or utterance. These formulas were pronounced both by
ruler and commoners, before daily tasks or rituals. The action was then performed
silently, and when completed another manthra was pronounced.67 The ‘prayer wall’
around them was to shield people from evil attacks. The Lahij blessings very likely
grew out of the root of Zoroastrian vaj, powerful word, and protective manthra.68
“Each ritual collapses past and future into the present by gathering together
a world full of meaning and symbolism.” —Jamsheed K. Choksy 70
For the first time the thread, which would unravel traces of the Zoroastrian
undercurrent was the enigmatic wedding ritual of tying and untying a red string
around the bride’s waist three times. No specialist I consulted could explain the
meaning or origin of these gestures performed throughout many centuries in
Azerbaijan.71 The semantics of interpreting those actions have changed to affirming
the purity of the bride and desire that she would become a mother of seven sons.
Practitioners of these gestures seemed to perform them habitually with no hint of
awareness of the robust body of beliefs from which they remain.
The field work of Mary Boyce, again offered a solution to my perplexing
question. Her description of the initiation ceremony72 involved tying of the kusti,
special woven string around the new believer’s waist three times. The sacred girdle73
(Pic- 3) is one of clear identity markers of behdinan,74 the followers of good religion
of the Creator Ahura Mazda and his prophet and manthran Zarathustra, Zoroaster.
The person undergoing the initiation into Zoroastrian faith commits to live out the
threefold doctrine of good thoughts, good words and good deeds.
In Lahij, and Azerbaijan, the number three in ritual action endured in another
ancient wedding tradition of walking around a light three times. Earlier the circling
with offering of fat was done around the hearth fire, fanning high flames, and was
called atesh zohr.75 As a ritual76 it was present among the Parsis in India until the
18th century and among Zoroastrians of Iranian desert of Sharifabad in 1963.77
Magsud Hadzhiev, a researcher and speaker of Tat from Guba region, described
several traditions, pertaining to fire, Novruz and heavenly lights, which he identified
as Zoroastrian. He claimed “nothing could take away the love of fire from the ‘Tat,’
except for the believers turning away to join the opposition.”78 The conquering
religion demeaned the old believers by labeling them atesh-perest. Thus the open
worship by the fire had to be modified. Today the Azerbaijanis at weddings no
longer walk three times around the flaming fire, but have altered their ritual to
encircling an oil or electric lamp instead.79
While the dire need to keep a hearth burning has disappeared, the reverence
for fire lingers on. The power of the light of God-Creator symbolized by the sun,
fire, torch, candle or a lamp persists in the wedding ceremony. (Pic- 4). Rauf Melikov
brought up one case of practice remaining from Zoroastrian times of carrying burning
torches in the wedding procession before the bride.80 While this custom mostly
disappeared from other settlements, it is still presently practiced in the cobbled streets
of Lahij. Additionally when the Lahij Shias, recite the salavot, though praying in
Arabic, they gaze into the source of light,81 instead of the prescribed direction of
Mecca.82 The moon, as one of the lights that overcomes the darkness, is greeted
Novruz
“No Roz is the most joyous and beautiful of the Zoroastrian feasts, a spring
festival invested with especial religious significance.” —Mary Boyce83
Novruz, the new day, New Year and new light is the most beloved holiday in
Azerbaijan, celebrating the victory of the sunshine over winter darkness. Novruz
symbolism encapsulates the Zoroastrian eschatology. The freshness and purity of
spring brings renewed life. According to Mary Boyce, Zoroaster first taught
resurrection and life everlasting. Thus, Novruz was not only yearly renewal, but
also a vivid reminder of the coming day of the final victory of good over evil.84
(Pic-5) The Lahij people preserved these ancient practices of the Spring Equinox
or New Year. The warm light of sun and fire overcoming cold and darkness is
vigorously celebrated. The main paradigm is that life wins over death. Sadness, sin
and impurity of the past are cleansed by archetypal ritual actions bringing renewal;
for example sprouting wheat, painting eggs, baking cookies in shapes of cosmic
lights, lighting candles, deep cleaning, painting homes white, using the power of
Although fire worship is older than Zoroastrian beliefs and so are the seasonal
cosmic agricultural festivals; the Novruz festival in Azerbaijan was called in typically
Zoroastrian terminology baharcheshn, Ferverdin, Hormuzd bayrami, Azer
bayrami.94
Some of the Novruz blessings are:
“May your life and days be filled with the fragrance of spring time!
May blessed days open up before you and be filled with light!”
The ancient blessing was “May the fire of your hearth never go out.”95
Conclusion
ethic, moderate way of life, active fighting of evil instead of fatalistic resignation,
hopeful focus on afterlife and above all togetherness, hamazuri. Lahijans use daily
the archaic genre of blessings, most likely remaining from the Avestan protective
manthra, vaj. The preparation and rituals of Novruz reveal representation of the
active struggle of darkness and light. The victory of light, as Lahijans perceive, with
God’s help, is brought on by the people’s agency. The participation in Novruz is
considered the key test of Lahij identity, as family members are required to return
even from afar for the auspicious yearly renewal.
As a living heritage Lahij, in 2020, is still a close-knit community with distinctive
strands of beliefs and practices including a Zoroastrian undercurrent. The particular
identity of Lahij, though, is fragile. While their resilient character adjusts and persists,
the relict Lahij Iranian mother tongue is gradually slipping away. ‘Outside of
boundaries’ the traditional morality weakens. The UNESCO inscribed the trade of
coppersmith into the list of world intangible heritage, yet Lahij as an example of the
Perso-Turkic cultural complex,97 is an irreplaceable cultural landscape within
Azerbaijan.