Draping

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University of the Arts London 2023
Syllabus:
• Unit Title: Draping
• Credit Value: 4
• Contact Hours: 40
• Self-directed Study Hours: 40
• Tutor: Dean Bright

Introduction:
Draping, often called modelling, is an innovative and creative method of pattern making used as an
important element in the design process. Calico or muslin is manipulated on a garment stand until the
design is perfected to the designer’s satisfaction. The shape in fabric is then transferred onto paper to
obtain a pattern. This three-dimensional approach to creating a pattern helps designers quickly see the
evolution and visual effect of a specific style.

In this unit you will be introduced to the fundamentals of draping in order to realise your own
unique designs in three-dimensional form.

You will have the opportunity to develop your own creative project, modelling your own design based
on skills and techniques learnt. With a strong emphasis on research, you will produce a file of
inspirational images and material to support your own creative ideas. You will be encouraged to
photograph each stage of the draping process to help you evaluate your progress and to create your
own personal resource to refer to when undertaking related projects in the future.

This unit is particularly suitable for students who have struggled with flat pattern cutting methods. It is
also suitable for complete beginners as well as a refresher for those with basic draping skills.

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Learning Outcomes:
Upon successful completion of this unit you will be able to:

• Conduct independent visual research and compile a sketchbook/file showing the development
of your ideas and creativity (Enquiry/Process)

• Understand and apply the basic elements of draping to your design process
(Knowledge/Process)

• Produce a completed toile demonstrating technical, creative and compositional skills of draping
(Realisation/Process)

• Use visual research and sketches to push and explore your own creativity, gaining an ability to
develop ideas/designs in three dimensions (Process/Communication/Realisation)

Teaching and Learning Methods:

• Lectures

• Seminars

• Demonstrations

• Workshops, supported by group activities

• Individual/Group tutorials

• Handouts

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Assignment Brief:

Part 1: Technical File

You will create the following sample patterns in calico:

• Basic fitted bodice and variations (front and back)
• Basic dress and variations (front and back)
• Basic skirt and variations (front and back)
• Collars: peter pan, mandarin, rever and variations
• Flounces and frills

Assemble all the above in a ring binder file. Each sample must be in a see through plastic sleeve,
labelled.

Throughout the unit, prior to each session, you are also required to carry out specific research and
sketches in relation to the following weeks class. This visual and written research is to be collated in a
sketchbook.

Format:

• An A4 technical file containing all required sample patterns in calico

• An A4 or A3 sketchbook containing written and visual material related to each class

Deadline: Monday 20th February 2023.

Part 2: Design, drape and construct a toile based on your own design

Having practised and acquired the skills in part 1, you now have the opportunity to demonstrate your
knowledge in the design and construction of your own garment. This is an opportunity for you to be as
creative as you want to be – to show flair, imagination, originality and cohesion.

Design and create one outfit:

Select a muse, male or female, an individual who will inspire your final design and collect images,
photographs and tear sheets. You may use inspiration gained from museum / gallery / exhibition visits,
if you wish. Create an A3 board of VISUAL material (from the above) relating to this muse.

Produce a minimum of 25 sketches (front and back views). These should show development of a style,
by subtly changing the silhouette and balance of the garment. For example, retain the same shape but
change the waistline, neckline, pockets, trimmings etc. Collect fabric samples relating to your design
development (you will be given a list of fabric stores to explore and obtain swatches from). Relate
swatches to sketches/tear sheets/images.

Creating the toile:

Select a design/s, with tutor guidance and model your garment/s, completing a full toile. Traditionally
a toile is made in calico or muslin, up to 20% of the finished toile may be a fabric or trim of the
students choice in consultation with the tutor. The toile is to show sound technical, creative and
compositional skills.

Guidelines will be provided.

Photograph your outfit as it progresses throughout the assignment on the mannequin and include in
your sketch book.

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You will have a one to one critique/tutorial, where you will discuss your work, explaining your
inspiration, muse board and final toiles with the tutor.

All toiles will be photographed at the end of the final class for assessment and display at the
graduation.

Format:

• Visual research and sketches presented in an A4 sketchbook containing a minimum of 25

sketches, fabric samples, photocopies and tear sheets etc
• A hardcopy A3 muse board made up of selected and collated written and visual material
• Final completed toile in calico

Deadline: Monday 3rd April 2023.

Research:
Learning extends beyond the taught sessions. It is essential that students undertake independent field
work and self-directed study. In assignment one, you will be expected to deliver 10 drawings weekly on
the set subject, this is to be backed up by tear sheets from magazines, newspapers and photocopies
from books as part of your research to be included in your sketchbook.

Assessment Methods:

Assessment will be against the specified marking criteria.

The unit is assessed holistically (100% of the unit).

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Outline:

• Lecturer: Dean Bright

• Room: CSM Arch B201
• Day: Monday
• Time: 12.00 – 4.00

Materials and Equipment:

• Pencil, pen and camera/smart phone (recommended)

• A basic draping kit will be provided at the beginning of the unit, containing: 5m of lightweight
calico, 5m of medium calico, 5m of cotton muslin and a reel of white polyester thread. Drafting
paper will be provided. Students will also be able to borrow a bobbin and bobbin case. You will
be given a list of stockists and specialist suppliers at the start of the course. Students will need
to budget approximately £40 for additional calico/muslin

• You will also need to provide: dressmaking pins approximately 1 1/8” long (NO glass headed
pins), long bladed paper scissors, good quality tailors shears, metric/imperial tape measure,
hand sewing needles, ruler, pencils (H), pencil sharpener, eraser, ballpoint pens, a ring binder
file, plastic sleeves for the file, a sketch book and a notebook. Digital camera or phone

• You will also need a large holdall to carry your kit. A camera is also essential, as you will
photograph your work at every stage to be used as part of your assessment and form part of
your pattern-cutting portfolio

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 Date / Week Lecture Topics / Learning Activities Additional Information

Week Introduction to the unit and tutor IT IS ESSENTIAL TO

Commencing BRING THE
Health and Safety FOLLOWING
16.01.2023 EQUIPMENT TO THE
Lecture: FIRST CLASS:

Further Induction: Pins approximately 1 1/8”

long - NO glass headed
• Health and safety in the workroom pins, scissors (1 x fabric,
• Defining the art of draping 1 x paper), H or HB
• Understanding the dress stand/female form pencil, black, red and
• Equipment blue biros or fine tip pens,
• Use of cotton modelling tape camera, sketchbooks.
• Placing tape on the form
• Toile fabric recognition Homework:

Lecture and Demonstration: Research for next week:

Skirt styles:
• Draping a Basic Bodice front and back including
Puff ball, crinoline, mini
an introduction to darts
crinoline, A-line, circle
• Draping a Basic Dress
cut, draped, pleated etc.
• Modelling a basic darted dress pattern/block, front Draw 10 historic skirt
and back styles and include other
research i.e magazine
Assignment Briefings: cuttings in sketchbook.
• Part 1: Technical file
• Part 2: Design, drape and construct a toile based
on your own design

COMPLETE INDIVIDUAL AND PERSONAL LEARNING

AIMS/OBJECTIVES. SUBMIT ONLINE BY THE
DEADLINE.

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 Date / Week Lecture Topics / Learning Activities Additional Information

Week Discussion: Homework:

Commencing
• Discuss research/sketch book with tutor Research for next week:
23.01.2023
Demonstration/Workshop: Dress shapes and
silhouettes:
Basic Skirt Research historical and
20thC dress silhouettes,
• Experimenting with skirt styles Empire line, A-line, the
• Draping a straight skirt, front and back, draping New Look, the Flapper,
an A-line skirt and a draped wrap over skirt, peg the Mini, Princess line,
skirt Puff Ball, etc.
Research and draw 10
different dress silhouettes
and include other
research i.e magazine
cuttings in sketchbook.

Bias cutting:
Research bias cut
dresses, draw 5 versions
of a bias-cut dress,
include other research i.e
magazine cuttings in
sketchbook.

Week Discussion: Homework:

Commencing
• Discuss research/sketch book with tutor and Research for next week:
30.01.2023 incorporate this into your work on the stand
Collars:
Demonstration/Workshop: Cowl Neck, Revere collar,
Peter Pan collar, Shawl
Dress Variations Collar, sailor Collar, Shirt
Collar, Funnel Neck,
• Modelling a variety of dress shapes, A-line, Mandarin.
princess line, bias cut
Research and draw 10
different collars and
Demonstration/Workshop: include other research i.e
magazine cuttings in
Bias Cutting sketchbook.

• The principles of bias cutting and experimenting

on the bias. True bias, bias variations

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 Date / Week Lecture Topics / Learning Activities Additional Information

Week Demonstration/Workshop: Homework:

Commencing
Collars Research for next week:
06.02.2023
• Draping collars on the stand using your research, Flounces and Frills:
including: Mandarin, Peter Pan, Shawl collar, Research the many
cowl neck, Revere collar, Peter Pan collar, Shawl different ways frills and
Collar, sailor Collar, Shirt Collar, Funnel Neck flounces are used to
adorn different styles of
garments from peplums
and hem lines, ball gowns
to winter coats, from bias
cut evening gowns to
every day work skirts,
shirt frills, collar and cuff
frills, gathered, pleated,
etc.

Research and draw 10

examples of frills and
flounces and include
other research i.e
magazine cuttings in
sketchbook.

Week Demonstration/Workshop: Homework:

Commencing
Flounces and Frills Prepare your Mood
13.02.2023 Board:
• Using your research we will drape various frills
and flounces, incorporating them into your dress Research and design
skirt or bodice pattern created in previous weeks your outfit to be draped
and made in assignment
2, including your muse
board for week six.

Design 25 options to be
discussed for this
assignment.

Week • Discuss assignment 2 with tutor Homework:

Commencing • Hand in your mood board and 25 designs for
assignment 2. Discuss which design is to be It is vital that students
20.02.2023 made as a toile take advantage of the
open access sessions in
• Work on assignment 2. Begin creating pattern for order to move their toiles
complete toile forward.
• Students must remember to provide enough of
their own calico for their toiles in this project

COMPLETE MID SEMESTER FORMATIVE

ASSESSMENT ONLINE BY THE DEADLINE

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 Date / Week Lecture Topics / Learning Activities Additional Information

Week Break
Commencing

27.02.2023

Week Break
Commencing

06.03.2023

Week Assignment Part 1: Homework:

Commencing
• Hand in technical files It is vital that students
13.03.2023 take advantage of the
Workshop: open access sessions in
order to move their toile’s
• Work on assignment 2 forward. Details and times
of open access will be
provided.

Week Workshop:
Commencing
• Work on assignment 2
20.03.2023

Week Workshop:
Commencing
• Work on assignment 2
27.03.2023

Week Presentation and Assessment:

Commencing
Assignment Part 2:
03.04.2023
• Finish toile
• Bring in all designs and research
• Students present finished work

Students work will be photographed for presentation at

graduation end of semester celebration

COMPLETE FINAL EVALUATIONS ONLINE BY THE

DEADLINE.

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 Date / Week Lecture Topics / Learning Activities Additional Information

Week NO CLASS
Commencing
End of semester celebration.
10.04.2023

From time to time alterations may be made to the scheme of work to take account of students’
progress and unforeseen events or opportunities. If so, you will be informed in advance where
possible, but check Moodle daily. The scheme of work is intended only as an outline of topics to be
covered and is not a definitive list of what will be included in individual sessions.

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Reading List:

Essential:

Mee J & Purdy M, 1987, Modeling on the Dress Stand, BSP Professional Books

Johnston H & A, 2010, Fabric for Fashion, Clive Laurence King Publishing

Szkutnicka B, 2010, Technical Drawing for Fashion, London, Laurence King Publishing

Wolff C, 1996, The Art of Manipulating Fabric, Iola, U.S., KP Krause publications

Amaden C, 2012, The Art of Fashion Draping, 4th edition, Crawford

Kilsel K, 2013, Draping The Complete Course, Laurence King Publishing

Annette Duburg A & Van Der Tol R, 2009, Draping Art And Craftsmanship In Fashion Design

Sato H, 2012, Drape Drape, Drape Drape 2, Drape Drape 3, Laurence King Publishing

Suppliers List - Where to Buy:

Haberdashery:

MacCulloch & Wallis Ltd,

25 - 26 Poland Street,
London W1F 8QN 0207629 0311
The best shop for all millinery, sewing and crafts supplies. Great range of fabrics on ground floor.

Morplan
56 Great
Titchfield Street
London W1P 8DX
www.morplan.com

Kleins
5 Noel Street,
London W1F 8GD
Phone: 020 7437 6162
Ribbons, trims, beads, craft equipment.

Fan New Trimmings

14 - 18 Great Titchfield Street
London W1W 8BD
This shop has incredible modern trims beads and lots of unusual items

William Gee
520-522 Kingsland Road
London E8 4A
Dalston
www.williamgee.co.uk Good haberdasher and tailoring fabric supplier, cheap calico in East London

Fabric:

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MacCulloch and Wallis
25-26 Poland Street
W1F 8QN
Tel. 020 7629 0311
Web Directory: www.maculloch.com

Borovicks
16 Berwick street
W1F 0HP
www.borovickfabricsltd.co.uk

The Cloth House

47 Berwick street
W1F 8SJ
www.clothhouse.com

Shepards Bush Market

Goldhawk road tube stop. Walking east towards Shepards Bush green are an amazing selection of
fabric shops. Lots of bargains and also high end fabrics. Great for swatches and cheap calico.Cutting
room equipment.

Referencing:

It is essential that you cite and reference just about any source and to avoid plagiarism.
Use your own images and drawings wherever possible.

UAL Academic Affairs advises that the Harvard Referencing Style on the Cite Them Right Online
website is used for all taught courses. The site also allows you to create your own references by
copying the layout illustrated; you can then email the example to yourself or cut and paste it into a
document.

On campus go to Cite Them Right and you will be automatically logged on. To login off
campus go to Cite Them Right (off Campus) you will be asked to go via your home
institution and then to log in with your University login and password.

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 Assessment Criteria:

Level 4
Enquiry F E D C B A
Engagement in practice informed by Little or no Insufficient Satisfactory Good evidence Very good Excellent
analysis and evaluation of relevant evidence evidence evidence evidence evidence
practices and ideas

Knowledge F E D C B A
Foundational practical, theoretical Little or no Insufficient Satisfactory Good evidence Very good Excellent
and/or technical knowledge of the evidence evidence evidence evidence evidence
subject

Process F E D C B A
Experiment and review methods Little or no Insufficient Satisfactory Good evidence Very good Excellent
and results evidence evidence evidence evidence evidence

Communication F E D C B A
Setting out intentions, contexts, Little or no Insufficient Satisfactory Good evidence Very good Excellent
sources and arguments evidence evidence evidence evidence evidence
appropriate to your audiences

Realisation F E D C B A
Recognition of options and Little or no Insufficient Satisfactory Good evidence Very good Excellent
choices related to production of evidence evidence evidence evidence evidence
outcomes

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University of the Arts London 2023