Sequence To Learn Play Variations

able to complete each one accurately, giving the responses without
hesitation. Then move on to the next drill. Answers to the drills for
play variations can be found after Drill Number Five.
Sequence to Learn Play Variations

• Start with the insurance variation.
• Learn the hit/stand variations.
• Learn hard-doubling decisions.
• Learn pair-splitting decisions.
• The quiz sheets in this chapter should be taken in order. They are
presented in a specific order, to simplify the learning process.
• Use the Flash Card sample shown below to make cards for each of the
play variations.
• Deal yourself hands with both a hole card and an upcard for the dealer,
keep the running count, convert to the true count, and make any play
variations that the count may dictate. It’s not necessary to place bets for
this drill, as we’re not working with betting strategies here.
• Mix up numbers 5, 6, and 7.
Note: As insurance is only one number, it’s not included in the

drills below. However, it’s essential that you know it well prior to
moving on.
Drill Number One—Hit/Stand Variations
Drill Number Two—Hard-Doubling Variations

Drill Number Three—Splitting Variations
Drill Number Four—All Variations
Drill Number Five—To Vary or Not to Vary

In this final drill, we have various hands to play, which may call
for either a basic strategy decision or a variation. The count will be
indicated; your task is to decide how to play.
Additional play variations may be added to most count systems.
Those outlined in this chapter are some of the most beneficial.
Playing efficiency, based on the application of many play variations,
is most effective in single-deck play.
Answers to Drill Number One
Answers to Drill Number Two

Answers to Drill Number Three
Answers to Drill Number Four

Answers to Drill Number Five

Advanced Counts
If you’ve learned the systems outlined in the previous chapters

and want to attempt a more challenging method, one or more of the
following systems might appeal to you. While the systems presented
in this chapter provide more power, please keep in mind that they’re
more complex and if not applied with total accuracy can lead to
costly errors. I remind you once again to keep your ego in check and
only use a system that you can play with total accuracy.
The learning sequences of the PLS outlined in the previous
chapters can be applied to the systems presented here.
Zen Count
This 2-level balanced count is presented in Arnold Snyder’s first
edition of Blackbelt in Blackjack.
Bet Sequence for 2-Deck Game
Unbalanced Zen II Count

The legendary George C. took the Zen Count, converted it into an
unbalanced count, and presented it in his fine book, The Unbalanced
Zen II (from which the following information comes). The outlined
bet schemes and play variations may differ somewhat from what
George presents, but they will enable you to play at an advantage.
For the complete system as is was written and revised, it’s
recommended that you refer to The Unbalanced Zen II.
Start the running count at -4 per deck.

Play variations for the Zen Count and Unbalanced Zen II Count
are available in the CV Blueprint companion software.
Expert-Level Counts
There are 3-level and even 4-level balanced-count systems
available. Some of these more complex systems may also require
either a side count of aces or a true-count conversion using half-
decks or both. The following is a learning sequence to help master
these tasks.
Converting to True Count Using Half-Deck Segments

In a 6-deck game, let’s use a running count of +6.
Glancing at the discard tray, you note 3 decks already played.
(You can also attempt to “calibrate” the discard tray by half-decks if
you’re confident in your ability to do so.)
Since the entire shoe began with 6 decks, you note there are 3
decks remaining to be played. If you double that number, you have 6
half-decks remaining to be played.
Dividing the running count (+6) by the number of half-decks
remaining (6), you arrive at a true count of +1.
The first two drills apply to learning the true-count conversion in
a 2-deck game. More decks are added as we progress.
Before each set of drills is a divisor chart for the respective
number of decks for the game. You can also make up flash cards, as
shown in the sample below, which may be used to drill yourself for
each number of decks used.
Note: When you perform a true-count conversion and arrive at a
fraction, for the sake of being on the conservative side, round the
count down to the nearest whole number.
Conversion for 2-Deck Game
Drill Number One

Get a few dozen decks of used casino cards. As always, get the
same cards used in the casinos, so the deck thickness is exact.
Take three decks, count off 26 cards, and place a rubber band
around them, with a slip of paper that says “½ deck.” Count off 52
cards and mark the pile “1 deck.” Mark the remaining cards “1½
decks.”
Practice looking at the piles to determine sizes. Do this until
you’re confident that you have it down.
Drill Number Two

Take two more decks and shuffle them together.
Start counting down the decks for a running count and stop at
random. Quickly look at the discards and state out loud how many
half-decks are in the discards, then how many half-decks remain to
be dealt. To check yourself for accuracy, hold the discard pile against
a pile used in drill number one. Repeat this step several times, stop
at random, determine the number of half-decks remaining, and then
start over.
Repeat the above exercise, but after determining the number of
half-decks remaining, calculate the true count. Your thought flow
should be running count = __, number of half-decks played = __,
number of half-decks remaining = __, and when you divide the
running count of__ by __ half-decks remaining, the true count = __.
Repeat this until you’re comfortable.
Finally, repeat the above, but instead of starting over, continue
counting down the deck, maintaining the running count. Stop again
at random, using the new running count and the number of decks
played/remaining to determine the new true count. Perform two or
three true-count conversions during the countdown of decks. It’s
important to retain the running count number through the whole
countdown, so you can continue where you left off to do the true-
count calculations.
Now let’s increase to 4 decks.
Drill Number Three

Take the 2 decks you were just counting with and place a rubber
band around them, marking on a slip of paper “2 decks.” Then take
9 decks, count off 2½ decks, 3 decks, and 3½ decks, marking the piles
accordingly.
Practice looking at the piles to determine sizes. Do this until you
are confident that you have it down.
Drill Number Four

Take four more decks and shuffle them together.
Start counting down the decks for a running count and stop at
random. Quickly look at the discards and state out loud how many
half-decks are in the discards, then how many half-decks remain to
be dealt, and calculate the true count. In order to check for accuracy,
hold the discard pile against a pile used in drill number three.
Repeat this step several times: Stop at random, determine the
number of half-decks remaining, then start over.
Repeat the above, but instead of starting over, continue with the
running count, stop again at random to determine the new running
count, half-decks played/remaining and new true count. Do this
“stop and go” two to four times throughout the decks. In this step,
you’re performing a different sizing of true-count conversions each
time throughout the countdown of the decks. It’s important to retain
the running-count number through the whole countdown, so you
can continue where you left off to do the true-count calculations.
You can perform the above drills for 6-deck and 8-deck games,
referring to the charts on the following page for initial guidance.

Drill Number Five

Using the conversion numbers for a 6-deck game, based on the
information in the two columns provided in this drill, calculate the
true count and write it in the third column next to each item.
Answers to drills number 5, 6, and 7 can be found at the end of this
chapter.
Example—The running count is 15 and 3½ decks have been
played. For 3½ decks played, 2½ decks remain, giving a divisor of 5
(representing five half-decks). Dividing 15 by 5, the true count is 3.
Drill Number Six
Now let’s try the exercise with a 4-deck game:
Drill Number Seven

And finally, we work our way back to the 2-deck game:
Side Count of Aces
Some card-counting systems assign a zero value for the ace and
require that the player keep a separate side count of
played/unplayed aces in the deck(s). Knowing how many aces are
left in the deck(s) is extremely valuable for betting purposes, though
for playing purposes, the ace has little use. For this reason, some of
the higher-level systems include this feature. In order to provide a
flavor for this task, I outline the procedures to practice the art of
maintaining an ace side count. Please be forewarned that this is an
extremely complex task. Most players do not attempt this, as it can
lead to numerous errors, thus wiping out much of one’s advantage.
Determining Normal Number of Aces Played

Since there are 4 aces per deck, the first step is to master the skill
of determining whether the number of aces remaining to be dealt is
above or below normal. An example:
In a 6-deck game, 3 decks have been dealt and you’ve counted 12
aces also dealt. The “ace factor” in this case would be “normal.”
Therefore, an ace adjustment to the running count would not be
necessary.
However, if in the same game, after 3 decks dealt only 2 aces
have been seen, obviously the remaining decks in play have a high
concentration of aces. Since the normal number of aces for 3 decks is
12, if only 2 have appeared, you have 10 aces above normal in the
remaining decks.
Adjusting the Running Count with the Ace Factor

Let’s say the point value you assign for the purpose of side
counting of aces is 1. Your running count, without factoring in the
aces, is, say, +6. This represents your unadjusted running count. The
next step is to add the ace count to this unadjusted running count to
determine the adjusted running count. Taking this example, with 10
extra aces, the adjusted running count is +16.
Converting to True Count

The adjusted running count is then converted to true count for
betting purposes only. After making this conversion and placing the
bet, the player reverts to the unadjusted running count, which is
next converted to true count for playing purposes.
The Sequence
Establish running count (unadjusted) and retain this number.
Determine the ace factor by keeping a separate count of aces and
noting if the content of the remaining cards is above or below
normal in aces.
Thinking Sequence for Establishing True Count

• Establish and retain Running Count.
• Look at discard tray and determine # of half-decks dealt.
• Determine # of half-decks remaining.
• Establish divisor number.
• Divide Running Count by divisor and establish True Count.
Add the ace factor to the unadjusted running count to determine

the adjusted running count.
Convert the adjusted running count to true count and determine
your bet size.
Revert back to the unadjusted running count and convert that
number to true count to determine playing strategy.
Confused yet? This method is not essential to playing with an
advantage. It should be utilized only by those who can realistically
perform the quick and accurate calculations necessary to accomplish
the tasks.
Methods for Keeping a Side Count

Players have their own methods and tricks for maintaining side
counts. When I used to side count aces, I kept a wad of chewing gum
in my mouth and moved the gum to different parts of my mouth to
mark the number of aces. Some people use the chips in front of them
(this can be somewhat obvious), while others position their feet in a
certain manner to determine the number. If you do try keeping a
side count, be creative, but don’t be obvious.
Answers to Drill Number Five
Answers to Drill Number Six

Answers to Drill Number Seven

10
Putting It All Together
In the previous chapters, we learned how to vary our bets in

accordance with the running count and true count and how to vary
our play of hands, based on these counts. We can now incorporate a
final review, dealing hands and combining the betting/playing
strategies, while maintaining the running and true counts.
At this time you should possess the ability to:
• Make basic strategy plays without hesitation, and count down
a deck of cards in 25 seconds or less.
• Maintain a running count, while hands are being dealt.
• Convert the running count to true count after each round, or
use the unbalanced count system.
• Place appropriate bets in accordance with the count.
• Make proper play variations to basic strategy, based on the
count.
For a final review of all the acquired skills, deal yourself hands as
if there’s a full table of seven players. While playing your one hand,
vary your bets and play of hands in accordance with the count.
Once you feel that you have a grasp of the skills necessary,
you’re ready to make your initial trip for live casino play. It’s
essential that you do not rush into this until you’re performing your
drills flawlessly. Thanks to modern technology, nowadays computer
software programs are readily available for practice. In addition to
the CV Blueprint companion software, one such program is Casino
Vérité, which is referenced in Chapter 37. I recommend that you put
in an hour of practice daily to ensure that you’re on track.
“So,” you ask, “how long will it take before I can hit the tables?”
There’s no standard answer to this question. The amount of time
devoted to practice and training is an individual preference. The
following suggestions for practice and training schedules take into
account all of the training tools referenced in the previous chapters. I
haven’t included any benchmarks for time frames. Rather, I
recommend using the drills available in CV Blueprint or Casino Vérité
as a skills-check to determine your readiness to progress to the next
level.
Weekday Training After Work or School
Devote one hour each weekday for training and practice.
or
Train every other day (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) for
one-two hours.
or
Alternate the above two training schedules, going five days for
week one, then three days for week two.
Weekend Training
This should not be treated as a crash-course training method. If,
from your personal experience, you have the patience for intense
training in a somewhat condensed manner, then you may wish to
consider weekend training.
On both Saturday and Sunday, train for two hours in the
morning, then two hours in the afternoon.
Full-Day Training
This somewhat resembles a crash-course training style and I
don’t recommend it for most. First, it’s unrealistic to think that you
can spend 6-8 hours learning the material and be completely ready
to take on the casinos. So, if you’re looking for a crash-course, this
isn’t it. Second, from my experience in training people (in many
different fields), I find that the average person can absorb only so
much information in a single sitting. Full-day training may be
effective as a “final test,” after you’ve become fluent in all the
necessary skills acquired from part-time training. However, if you
don’t take my word for it, or happen to be that exceptional person,
here’s a compromise:
One day per week, train for separate two-hour sessions each in
the morning, afternoon, and evening.
Mix It Up, Get Creative and Have Some Fun
In most cases, no one knows the best way for you to learn except
you. You have your own style, which you probably developed in
your academic studies and carried onward. As such, you can
combine the above training methods in any way that works for you.
There are no rules and there should be no hurry to hit the casinos
until you’re ready. Trust me, the casinos will still be there. Take your
time, get creative, and make your training an enjoyable experience.

11
First Casino-Play Experience
You’ve spent the time necessary to learn a valid card-counting

system and you’re ready to put in your first live-casino play. It’s
important that you view this trip in the proper perspective: strictly
for practice at the lowest stakes available. Ideally, if you plan on
playing in Nevada, you want to look for $3-minimum tables. Playing
in Atlantic City you may find a $5-minimum table. The steps in
preparation are performed at home.
Developing a Game Plan

How many days will you have available to play? How many
hours should you play daily? Regardless of your responses, you
should ensure that you plan activities other than playing blackjack.
Most important are eating and sleeping. To maintain your sanity, it’s
necessary to take regular breaks from play and relax by a pool, work
out at a health spa, take a drive, or play some golf. Just do something
to give your brain a rest in between blackjack sessions. The best
approach is to draw up an itinerary planning your day. A sample
itinerary:
Day One
8:00 a.m. — Session #1
9:00 a.m. — Breakfast
10:30 a.m. — Session #2
12 noon — Relax by pool and have lunch
2:00 p.m. — Session #3
3:30 p.m. — Sauna, massage, workout, or other exercise
6:00 p.m. — Dinner
8:00 p.m. — Session #4
10:00 p.m. — See a show or other entertainment
11:30 p.m. — Sleep
This may seem a bit structured, but it helps to get into the habit
of planning your trips to develop the sense of discipline necessary to
play a successful game.
How Much Should I Bet? How Much Money Should I Bring?

Find the lowest-limit table available. If you can find a $1-
minimum table, that would be ideal. Playing in a 6-deck game,
follow the betting range as outlined in your specific count system.
As an example, let’s assume your system suggests a 1-12 bet range,
hence a minimum bet of $1 to a maximum bet of $12.
We want to have a bankroll consisting of 100 maximum bets. The
reason for this is based on a formula devised from several variables
within the count system. In many count systems, a bankroll of 100
maximum bets is required to play within a 5% risk of ruin. This
means that based on your bankroll, betting sequence, and overall
structure of the count system, you have a 19 out of 20 chance of
doubling the bankroll and a 1 in 20 chance of losing your entire
bankroll if you keep playing until one or the other occurs. This is a
general guideline, as other factors may warrant a different approach.
Therefore, with a maximum bet of $12, our bankroll should be
$1,200.
How Long Should Each Playing Session Be?

After planning an itinerary, betting schedule, and bankroll,
establish your length of play during a given session. With a $1,200
bankroll and playing 10 sessions in 2-3 days, you can divide the
bankroll by the number of sessions to determine your session
bankroll ($120). In this initial stage, your session length should be as
long as it takes for one of these three determining factors to occur:
You double your session bankroll.
You lose half of your session bankroll.
A time of 1 hour elapses.
How Do I Keep Track of My Playing Sessions?

Bring along a notebook or even a laptop computer.
The following is a sample of a Session Report:
In the provision for penetration, we want to note how many

decks out of the multi-deck game are dealt prior to shuffling. As the
more cards a card counter sees, the greater the advantage, a record
of observed penetration levels by dealers/shifts/casinos is
important information.
Pre-Game Scouting
Look for casinos with low-minimum tables.
Look for a slow dealer (at this early stage).
Look for dealers providing a good penetration level. At the
completion of the dealer’s shuffle routine, the player cuts the
deck(s). The dealer then places a second cut card somewhere within
the deck(s). You’re looking for this cut card to be no more than 1½
decks from the bottom, giving at least a 75% penetration level for the
6-deck game.
Look for a table with an empty seat at third base. There are two
reasons for this. First, when counting, you don’t have to turn your
head in all different directions, with your eyes wandering. You can
also accomplish this from first base, but in your initial outing, you’d
be better sitting at third base for the second reason: You have more
time to absorb the count before making your playing decision.
Sitting at first base, you play your hand immediately after each
player’s initial two cards are dealt. Eventually, you’ll develop the
ability to accomplish this, but in the initial stages, it’s best to create
the most comfortable conditions possible.
Note: Pit and surveillance are aware that card counters prefer
third base. However, in this learning stage, playing small stakes you
shouldn’t have a problem. Be aware that other players at the table
may criticize your play more when you sit at third base. If you’re
sensitive to criticism, you may want to consider sitting at first base.
Ready to Play?
You’ve mastered basic strategy and a card-counting system for
the game you plan on playing. You’ve developed a game plan and
an itinerary. You’ve done some pre-game scouting of casinos.
Okay, time for the opening kickoff!
Things to Do and Not Do While Playing

Since this first trip is meant to be a practice session, the things to
focus on are maintaining the count, making the proper bets, and
making the proper plays. There are other outside factors and fine
points of playing, which we need not focus on at this point. The
topics of heat, casino countermeasures, and camouflage, covered in
detail in Chapter 14, shouldn’t be an issue at this level of play.
However, in the rare event that you’re told by a casino employee
that you’re not permitted to play 21 anymore at that property,
simply take your chips, cash in, and leave immediately without
further incident. Without any argument, simply respond, “Yes sir”
or “Yes ma’am.”
Once you start playing, develop your own style and rhythm in
maintaining the count, placing your bets, and stacking your chips in
front of you. You want to play in a mechanical yet relaxed manner.
You want to converse occasionally with other players, the dealer, or
the pit staff, while at the same time maintaining an accurate count.
This tactic is a form of deflection. You eventually want to create
several deflections throughout the game. In order to create a most
effective deflection and at the same time be alert to other events
around the table, you have to pick your spots.
Routinely determine the best times to divert your attention
briefly from the cards and throw out a comment or two. They should
be of a nature that will, with luck, lead to a quick one-line response,
rather than a life story. The best time to carry on any sort of lengthy
conversation is during the shuffle process. A good method to
develop, especially when you’re sitting at third base, is to ask
someone a quick one-line question just after the dealer finishes
playing a hand. At this point, you’ve counted every card and know
the running count. The dealer must settle all bets, collect all cards
and place them in the discard tray, then deal one card to each player
and him/herself, before you need to pay attention again. If you can
work this into a routine and time all your brief one-liners for this
period, you’ll be in the beginning stages of developing the rhythm
for creating an effective deflection.
When interacting with other players at the table, dealers, or pit
staff, be certain never to criticize the plays someone else makes.
Actually, you should try to discipline yourself not even to register
the plays other players make. This is an easy task, since all you want
to do is look at the value of all the cards and determine the count. If
another player or the dealer criticizes your play, just shrug your
shoulders and say you had a hunch.
Post-Game Evaluation
After each session, immediately complete your session report
with as many details as you can get in. If you write down dealers
who deal with good or bad penetration, this can come in handy on
later trips, as you’ll have advance knowledge to play with or avoid
certain dealers.
Do a self-evaluation, most importantly of your comfort level at
the tables. It’s important that you don’t tense up while playing, as
such emotions divert your focus. If you find yourself tensing up at
the tables, figure out some methods to ease such tension prior to
playing. Perhaps some exercise might work or you might cut down
on your caffeine. This is something you can determine for yourself.
As a rule, you shouldn’t drink alcoholic beverages at the table while
counting. However, in your final session of the day, it’s relatively
safe to order a drink just as you are winding down that session.
Once the drink arrives, prepare for your exit from the table. Another
point in your self-evaluation is to determine that you’re following
your game plan, noting any deviations made and why.
One of the toughest calls to make is whether you’re playing
accurately or making errors. This is easy when you’re playing with
someone else who uses your count system and who can observe
your play. But short of that luxury, if you feel as though you’re not
playing accurately, try to isolate what could be the weak link. Make
a note to practice and strengthen it.
After completing your evaluation and review for each individual
session, do the same for the overall trip. All these steps are helpful in
mapping out your game plan for your next trip.
With your first trip and overall self-evaluation under your belt,
make the necessary adjustments and begin to prepare your game
plan for the next trip. This second trip should also be considered as
strictly practice and played at the same low stakes available. At the
conclusion of your second trip, you should be even more confident
in your play, and after some additional hours at the tables, you’ll be
ready to move on to the next stage.

The
Green Zone

12
Money Management
The next stage comes after you have logged several hours of low-
stakes play and are comfortable playing in a live casino
environment. At this point, you may be ready to increase your
playing stakes. However, there are several things you should
consider first.
Can you afford to put the required bankroll at risk, without jeopardizing
your normal living expenses?
This requires serious consideration. On this point, I must make a
strong suggestion (which basically means you’d better do this!) and tell
you to perform a thorough review of your current finances and
determine how much money you can put aside without having any
need for it in the near future. Funds for a down payment on a house,
college tuition for your children, etc. should not be touched. Money
of this type should be in separate accounts for the intended
purposes.
After reviewing your finances, you may find that you don’t have
the proper funds readily available for a sufficient bankroll. If this is
the case, my recommendation is to stick to low stakes. Perhaps at a
later date, you may have the necessary funds for the next level of
play. Do not attempt to play higher-stakes blackjack with an insufficient
bankroll.
Once you’ve determined you have adequate funds, take those
funds and open a separate bank account or investment account. This
will be your personal “21” account. After each trip, deposit your
winnings (you hope) into this account. On the other hand, if this
account goes to zero balance, you should consider taking a break
from playing. (This is also a good idea, even if you determine that
you can only afford playing low stakes, as this bank account has the
potential to grow into a sufficient amount for higher stakes in time.)
How do you determine what is sufficient funding for a bankroll?

Our realistic goal is to play in a manner that will maximize our
potential to win money, while at the same time minimize our risk.
Most count systems outline a bankroll requirement and betting
scheme that, when followed, give the player a better than average
chance to achieve this goal. Betting and playing in accordance with
the methods outlined in the count system and based on your
bankroll (as determined by the count system), you may have a 19 out
of 20 chance (95%) of doubling your bankroll in the long run, with a
1 out of 20 chance (5%) of losing your entire bankroll in the long run.
Note: The “long run” is a term used rather loosely in gambling,
as it’s difficult to determine accurately the number of hands or hours
one needs to play to get into the long run. An easy way to view the
long run is to understand that as you increase the number of hours
of accurate play in accordance with the 5% risk of ruin, your chances
of succeeding increase. Some count systems have rather complex
formulas that determine the optimal bet range for a given bankroll.
Most systems simply indicate that after you determine your desired
bet range, take your maximum bet and multiply it by 100. This total
should be your bankroll. You can also reverse the process and take
the funds you have available for a bankroll and divide that figure by
100 to determine your maximum bet. Based on that number, you
would further develop the optimal betting scheme. All this ensures
that you’re playing close to the 5% risk of ruin.
What happens if you should lose half your bankroll?

If you lose half your bankroll, I recommend that you stop to
evaluate a few things:
Are you keeping the count and playing accurately?
Are you betting in accordance with your outlined range?
Are you selecting games with playable conditions?
Are you being cheated? (See Chapter 16 on cheating.)
After determining that you’re playing accurately, selecting
playable games, and being dealt an honest game, you’ll come to the
realization that you’ve hit one of those fluctuations that exist in the
game, putting you at this loss. When this occurs, you should stop
playing, reevaluate your available bankroll, and revise your betting
range accordingly to continue playing within the 5% risk of ruin.
The following is a brief illustration:
Starting Bank = $10,000
Betting Range = $10–$100
After X hours of play, you’ve lost $5,000. Stop. Reevaluate the
bank.
New Starting Bank = $5,000
New Betting Range = $5–$50
How do you determine the amount of money to allocate for each playing
session?
You can use the same formula outlined in the previous chapter to
determine the amount of money for each session. However, it’s a
good idea to add an additional factor here: Keep two additional
maximum bets for each session. The purpose of this is to provide a
cushion in case you have a situation calling for a split or double
down where you’ll need additional cash. Take note that this
additional cash should be considered reserve, only for this purpose.
The above illustrates a most simple form of money management.
For more precision in establishing methods of money management,
there are some excellent tools on the market. One product I use and
recommend is Blackjack Risk Manager 2002, which was developed by
John Auston. This software is easy to use and useful to the serious
player. Also recommended is Don Schlesinger’s book, Blackjack
Attack: Playing the Pros’ Way, which explains bankroll issues in a
clear and detailed manner.

13
Interaction with Casino Personnel
While playing, you interact with casino personnel. This chapter

gives you a basic idea of the “who’s who” in the business.
Most casino employees work a basic eight-hour shift. Since most
casinos are open 24 hours, there are three shifts. Day shift is noon–8
p.m., swing shift is 8 p.m.–4 a.m., and graveyard shift is 4 a.m.–noon.
Note: These times vary from casino to casino.
Here’s the basic chain of command within the casino staff:
Dealers
Obviously, you’ll have the most interaction with these folks.
Most have completed a course or training program, provided by a
school specializing in instruction of dealing casino games or an in-
house casino training program. Dealers are usually trained in more
than one casino game. It’s not uncommon to see the same dealer
who dealt you a blackjack game one day working the roulette wheel
the next day.
During the dealer’s shift and depending on the casino’s
procedures and policies, the dealers may rotate the tables where
they deal, as well as take specified breaks after dealing for a certain
period of time. Relief dealers fill in at the tables while the regular
dealer is on break. It’s common to see a dealer working your table
for up to one hour, then taking a 20-minute break. There are several
reasons for this.
One of the most important is that dealing, standing on one’s feet
and performing the duties involved in the job, is tedious and
mentally tiring. Considering the accuracy required for all the payoffs
of winning wagers, along with the totaling of the numerous hands
dealt, it’s wise to give dealers regular breaks to minimize the chance
of their making errors. Some casinos also fear that if a dealer stays
too long at the same table, he or she may get too friendly with some
of the players. Since most casinos encourage dealers to practice good
customer relations and be friendly at all times, some are concerned
that a dealer may get too friendly with a player, and be tempted to
provide “help” for a player. Such “help” is not only against casino
rules, but a crime punishable by a prison term (more in Chapter 16).
Dealers are just regular folks trying to make a living, as in any
other job. Some are there just for the paycheck, while others aspire to
work their way up the ranks. One thing to realize is that dealers
have a sometimes difficult chore, as they’re the front line interacting
with the public. Dealers have to put up with players who lose, then
blame them. They deal with boors and drunks. The best approach in
interacting with dealers is to be friendly and courteous. Say “please”
and “thank you,” make eye contact, and smile. When you’re losing,
don’t blame them.
You’ll find that interacting with dealers is similar to interacting
with front-line employees in many other businesses. Bank tellers or
restaurant servers are good examples. Some are friendly and
talkative, while others are quiet and seem as if they just want to
finish their shift, get their paycheck and go home. It’s best to treat
them all with courtesy.
If a dealer makes an error (in favor of the casino), the way you
point it out can have an effect on your future relationship with this
dealer. Many players are blunt, abrupt, and harsh in pointing out a
dealer’s mistake. A recommended approach is to smile and say,
“Excuse me, but would you mind taking a second look at [whatever
the situation may be]. I may be missing something, but it looks like
[say whatever may be incorrect]. I’d appreciate it.” Say, “Thank you”
if you’re correct or “I’m sorry; thanks for checking” if you’re wrong.
This may sound like a lesson in etiquette, but it helps to maintain
this attitude. If a dealer should make an error in your favor, use your
own judgment.
Remember that being nice can pay off!
Floorpersons
Next up the ladder, floorpersons are assigned to oversee a few
tables within the pit. They’re responsible for watching the dealers at
those tables, ensuring that house procedures are followed. The
floorperson, in all probability, has previously worked as a dealer
and was promoted to this position. They often interact with players
at the tables.
When you first enter a game, it’s common for a floorperson to
approach you and ask whether you have a player’s VIP card or if
you’d like to be rated (meaning have the pit record your play to
qualify for casino comps). When this occurs, ideally, you should
already have a player’s card. If you don’t, it’s a good idea to sign up
for one. When you get rated, you become eligible for comps, most
commonly meals; this helps cut down on expenses. Also, it looks
suspicious if you’re playing decent money and refuse to get rated.
An informed floorperson knows that card counters like to avoid
contact with the pit staff, and refusing to be rated is typical of a card
counter’s actions. And there are methods you can use to get rated
without using your true name. If you take this approach, in the
unfortunate event you get backed-off from the game (more on this in
Chapter 14), they don’t have much information on you.
Other functions of a floorperson are: Write out markers for credit
players; fill out rating slips for rated players; check the chip trays on
the tables to keep track of how much the table may be winning or
losing; arrange for “fills” to the chip trays; perform lots of
paperwork accompanying all the above; and watch for any dealer
and/or player cheating or stealing.
The floorperson may come over to chat with you periodically.
When this occurs, you should make every effort to look that person
straight in the eye, smile, and carry on the conversation. Ask some
questions; say something about yourself (whatever you want to
make up); talk about sports, shows, and restaurants. These are the
usual things discussed by regular players, which is what you’re
trying to appear to be. While this is happening, you can still
maintain the count. If, like many others, you find it difficult to talk
and maintain the count at the same time, just flat bet and play basic
strategy until the floorperson leaves. If he doesn’t leave, ask for a
meal comp. That way the person has to step away to fill out a comp
form for you! The floorperson usually has limited authority in
issuing comps. In most casinos, the floorperson can issue a buffet or
coffee shop comp without requiring a higher level of approval.
In many casinos, if a floorperson suspects a player of being a card
counter, this suspicion will first be reported to the pit boss.
Pit Bosses
Pit bosses are responsible for all activities related to the tables
within their assigned pit. They keep records of all fills, markers, and
drops (cash going into the drop boxes); authorize any comps for
rooms, gourmet meals, or shows; schedule breaks for floorpersons;
complete endless paperwork; and have some interaction with
players. In some of the larger casinos, the pit bosses’ performance
evaluation may include the ability to cultivate new business for the
casino.
When a high roller is playing, pit bosses usually make a point of
introducing themselves, handing over their business card and
saying, “Let me know if you need anything.” How the high roller
reacts after that determines whether the pit boss will hang around to
chat or step away. This is based on the marketing strategies taught to
the casino pit staff.
Generally, high rollers come in two basic types. Some want to
feel important and be catered to. They want to impress everyone
around that they’re high rollers. They want the pit boss to pay
attention to them. Others don’t have such ego demands, are more
subdued and low-key, and might even appear to be shy. In this case,
the pit boss desires to demonstrate that he’s part of a classy
operation that caters to plenty of high rollers and doesn’t need to
dote on the players. Bosses will leave this high roller alone, checking
up only when called upon.
If a floorperson reports that a player might be a card counter, the
pit boss either observes the player personally or notifies surveillance
to observe the player, or both.
Shift Manager
All pit bosses on a shift report to the shift manager. Requests for
higher-level comps, such as airfare reimbursements or full room,
food, and beverage (“RFB”) comps require, in many cases, the shift
manager’s approval. Shift managers normally don’t have a great
deal of interaction with the players. They do pay attention to high
rollers who bet at or above a specific level.
Casino Manager
The shift managers for all three shifts report directly to the casino
manager, who runs the entire gaming operation. The casino
manager normally interacts with only the highest of high rollers
playing in the casino. In this case, the casino manager ensures that
the player is extended the highest level of comps the casino has to
offer.
Casino Hosts
The above chain of command—dealers, floorpersons, and bosses
—is representative of the gaming operations area. In the marketing
area, you may have contact with hosts.
While you’re playing, probably trying to keep track of the
running count, a well-dressed man or woman with a huge smile
may approach you, extend a hand, and say “Hi, my name is ____
and I’m a casino host here.” The host will give you a business card,
ask you some questions about yourself, and just make some
generally brief (you hope) small-talk. When this occurs, you can stop
playing (if the count is negative), look the host straight in the eye,
and talk. Ask questions about the casino, about a line of credit, about
the restaurants. Keep talking until the shuffle (if you can). Since the
host wants you to put money in action, if it becomes evident that
you’re distracted, he’ll leave.
If this visit occurs during a positive count, stand up to shake
hands with the host and position yourself so you can easily shift
your attention back and forth from the table to the host without too
much head-turning. Take your time when trying to keep the count,
play your hand, and talk to the host. It may appear to be a difficult
task to juggle all this, but it can be accomplished with some practice.
To learn more about the inner workings of casino marketing, I
recommend reading Deke Castleman’s Whale Hunt in the Desert.
Casino Surveillance
Throughout the casino are many cameras and two-way mirrors
from above the casino floor, manned by individuals monitoring the
activities of all the customers, as well as monitoring casino personnel
working the floor. This form of surveillance, known as the “eye in
the sky,” is responsible for detecting anyone stealing or cheating,
any dealers deviating from proper procedures, and players counting
cards or utilizing any advantage techniques. Some casinos hire
former cheats, who know just about every trick in the book, to work
in their surveillance departments.
The surveillance staff watches a video monitor of any given table.
They can monitor, film, and photograph any player(s) and tables(s)
as instructed by any pit personnel for further review. Most casinos
film every table. Films are normally reviewed only when deemed
necessary.
Cashier
You’ll visit the cashier “cage” to exchange your chips for cash.
Pay attention to ensure accuracy when the cashier is counting both
your chips and cash.
Cocktail Servers
Drink runners visit the tables every so often, and you can order a
cocktail, beer, wine, soda, coffee, or whatever your pleasure. Note:
Avoid drinking bottled water, as the word in the pit and surveillance
is that this is the preferred drink of card counters. Remember to tip!
Tipping
Let’s discuss how and when to tip the dealer.
Dealers make a portion of their income from tips, which are
referred to in the casino industry as “tokes” (short for “token”). The
pit staff commonly believes that card counters don’t tip. When
winning, you may place an occasional modest toke for the dealer.
This is done in three ways.
You outright lay a chip on the table and tell the dealer it is a tip.
Place a chip in front of your bet, indicating that win or lose, it’s a bet
for the dealer on that hand. Though this method is most common,
it’s far from best for two reasons. First, if you win the hand, the
dealer is required by the house to take the winnings and deposit
them into the toke box. He doesn’t have the option to “let it ride”
and benefit if you have a hot streak. Second, if the hand turns out
where you need to double down or split, you end up putting out
more money for the dealer’s original bet, as well as your own.
You’re not required to match the tip portion on a double down.
Often you feel obliged to, but it isn’t obligatory. On the other hand,
it’s good to tip in this manner if a boss is watching and you want to
demonstrate that you’re tipping.
Here’s a good method for toking the dealer. Place a chip on top
of your bet, then lean over and tell the dealer, “You’ve got
something riding on this hand.” If you win the hand, give the dealer
the one winning chip and leave the original chip for the next hand.
You may even ask the dealer, “How about we let it ride?” In this
method, you control the tip, rather than the dealer having to follow
house procedures. Actually, you don’t need to say anything to the
dealer when placing the chip on top. If you need to double or split,
then win, you don’t have to feel obligated to give up more winning
chips. Remember that our edge is small and overtipping can eat into
profits.
If you’re in a losing session, don’t tip at all. You’re not winning,
therefore you have no money to tip and shouldn’t. Period.
The majority of casinos require dealers to pool all the tips. Why?
For reporting purposes, there’s consistency in the dollar amounts of
tips evenly distributed amongst the dealers. Dealers are naturally
hesitant to understate the amount of tips earned for tax purposes,
knowing it’s on record what all dealers earned from the tip pool
during any designated shift. In addition, a dealer working a $100-
minimum table generally earns more tips than a dealer at a $5-
minimum table. Pooling of tips creates a fair distribution based on
hours worked. Finally, there’s less incentive for a dealer to be in
cahoots with a generous tipper, since the dealer doesn’t get to keep
all of the tokes personally.
Some casinos still allow dealers to keep their own tips. If you are
playing in such a casino, tipping can become a more strategic part of
your game.
Here are a few finer points on tipping.
Wait for a positive count before placing a chip for the dealer.
A lot of people, as a rule, tip the dealer when receiving a natural.
Don’t do this too often, because you don’t want the dealer to get in
the habit of expecting a tip every time you receive a natural.
When playing 1-deck or 2-deck games where a cut card isn’t
usually used to indicate the shuffle point, a good time to place a chip
for the dealer is deep in the deck(s) during a positive count, where
the dealer may normally shuffle. Upon placing the chip, say to the
dealer, “This is for you; I feel a blackjack coming out right now.”
When a floorperson is watching the game, it may be beneficial to
place a chip on top of yours, and if you win the hand, toss the
winning chip to the dealer. If asked why you don’t place the bet on
the side for the dealer, say, “If I did that, the dealers would never get
any money from me with my luck here today.”
When initially buying in, if you’re playing at a $25-minimum
table, ask the dealer to break down one $25 chip into five $5 chips.
This might lead the dealer to think that the $5 chips are for tipping.
At a $5 table, break down a $5 chip into dollars. Sometimes, by
creating this perception, you have a dealer on your side before you
even place your first bet!
When talking to a dealer, find out when the next scheduled break
is. A good time to tip can be right before the break, especially if the
relief dealer sees you placing a tip up. Dealers also are known to say
“Thanks for the bets” upon leaving the table for break. This can be
an indication to the relief dealer that you’re a tipper.
Remember that your edge is small and overtipping can wipe it
out. Time your tips accordingly and place those extra chips out there
modestly.

14
Heat, Casino Countermeasures,

and Camouflage
In the previous chapter, we outlined the roles of the various

members of the casino staff. Because casinos are in business to win
money from players, they become concerned when a player begins
winning from them regularly. Having a built-in house advantage,
the casinos know that they’ll win in the long run. The bosses are
aware that some players attempt to implement various methods to
shift the odds in their own favor. When this occurs, they scrutinize
the players carefully.
How Much is too Much?

It’s important to know the type of casino in which you’re
playing. In some places, betting green $25 chips sets off alarms in the
pit; in others, bets of $100 don’t get as much as a blink. All casinos
have a certain “choke point” based on an amount of a player win,
which prompts intense scrutiny. You need to identify this dollar
amount and incorporate the knowledge of it into your game plan.
You don’t want to bet green chips in a club that doesn’t maintain a
supply of black $100 chips in the chip trays! When playing in a club,
be certain not to exceed what may be the acceptable stakes for that
club. Your level of betting must fit in with the club you are playing.
But that’s not all that needs to fit in.
An Early Experience
When I first started card counting, much of my initial practice
was playing for small stakes in clubs with only six tables and a $200
maximum bet. They didn’t stock $100 black chips in the chip trays.
Early one morning I entered one such casino, dressed in a silk
jogging suit and a fanny pack, looking clean-cut. The door to the
front entrance of this place hadn’t even closed behind me when the
pit boss zeroed in on me. After a quick scan of the other patrons, I
knew that I looked out of place. His eyes followed me all the way to
the table as I bought in for a whopping $200. As I took a first-base
seat, he proceeded to pull up a stool and sit over my right shoulder,
watching my play. I played, carefully spreading my bets, even
though he was sitting right there.
After playing for almost 90 minutes, I suddenly yawned and
stretched my arms. The boss then commented to me, “It’s tough
work, huh?”
I responded, “I’ve been playing all night.”
“How long have you been studying the game?” he asked.
“My brother taught me a little about how to play. He learned
when he was in the service.” I then asked him a little about how long
he’d worked in casinos.
A short while later, an interesting thing happened. The dealer,
when paying me on a winning bet, put an extra chip on top of the
winnings. I paused before making any motions. Immediately, the
boss called over to the dealer. When the dealer looked up, I pointed
to the overpayment, then looked back at the boss. My unspoken
message to him was that maybe I’m counting cards, but I’m not a
thief. After that, he more or less left me alone. As I was leaving, he
even asked me if I was hungry and wanted a comp to the coffee
shop!
Who is this Person?

When you first approach a table and make your initial buy-in, a
floorperson will usually check you out. Therefore, the amount you
buy in for should be in accordance with the type of casino you’re in.
You should be attired so you blend in with the other patrons, in
accordance with the stakes you’re playing. Nothing stands out more
than an intelligent-looking, early 20ish, Caucasian male, wearing a
fanny pack, buying in for large amounts, and betting $100 black
chips (see the typical card counter’s profile later in this chapter). The
initial observation may continue into the first few hands you play.
It’s important to remember that old saying about first impressions.
The stereotype of a card counter is a player who wants little to no
attention from the pit. Counters, when asked if they’d like a VIP card
or to be rated, usually decline. Your typical gambler, on the other
hand, wants to be rated to take advantage of all the comps he can
get. So here’s the tip. The move you should make when initially
arriving at the table is to actively seek out a floorperson and ask to
be rated. If you don’t use your real name, be certain to remember the
name you’re using in that casino. When making your first few bets,
bet a bit higher than what your minimum bet would be. For
example, instead of betting 2 units, maybe come off with 3 units. If
the game has decent rules, you won’t be giving up much advantage
by doing so, in consideration of what you may be gaining when
moving your bets later on. If you do a good job in your camouflage,
you should win some money and get a nice comp or two.
Keep in mind that it’s the casino’s job to know who its patrons
are. If you’re betting $100 chips or higher, depending on the casino,
the bosses may get curious about you. Even if you don’t give a name
to get rated, they can still maintain information on you: your
photograph, physical description, and session results. Keeping this
in mind, if you hit a casino for a nice win without providing your
name, then return to the same casino shortly thereafter, they may
have the ability to pull up information based on your last visit,
regardless. Remember, they have cameras! Overall, when a player
declines to be rated, it raises a red flag. For that reason, I recommend
getting rated. However, if your style is to go this route, it’s
imperative that you develop creative methods to stay under the
radar.
Use of Different Names

If you’re playing at levels that won’t trigger cash transactions in
the neighborhood of $10,000, you have a good shot at getting away
with using some different names in casinos when being rated. Just
be certain that you don’t trip yourself up and forget what name
you’re using in the current casino (I’ve heard stories of this
happening). This practice serves several purposes. If you’re
identified as a counter, the name under which you’re playing will be
conveyed to any other casino, to the extent that casinos communicate
information to one another. When using different names in casinos,
exercise caution, since casino personnel are known to change clubs
frequently.
One of the better methods of using different names is to use a
different spelling of your real name. It’s best to change the first or
second letter of your surname. The reason for this is so the two
names do not appear right next to each other when someone is
looking at a player list. Example: Jankowitz or Yankowitz. Bird or
Byrd. You can add further distance between the two names by using
a post-office-box address on one of the names. Get creative!
Obtaining a Casino Players Card

In my experience, it’s been safer to get a players card with a
bogus ID from a clerk at the players club than at the table. The sweet
ladies at these desks appear to be less suspicious than the pit staff. In
this case, you can get away with providing minimal information.
The only caution is if your cash buy-ins approach US$10,000, which
triggers the pit to see if they have your driver’s license and Social
Security numbers on file. If you’re playing at such levels, think about
calling a host before you arrive to ensure they have all the necessary
information for government-reporting purposes. If not, state that
you’ll bring copies of this info for their records. Bring photocopies
only, for their convenience. See if they’ll accept the information by
Fax. Whatever routine you use, you control the situation and
provide information under your terms. This goes with my overall
philosophy of being prepared before I get to the tables, rather than
getting caught with my pants down while I’m playing at the casino.
Moving Your Bets

You should do some scouting, prior to your initial play, as to
what type of bets will draw attention from the pit. If you increase
your bet to a certain level, the dealer may be required to alert the pit
about it. The dealer may call out to the pit certain bet amounts. This
may cause the pit to observe your play, or more likely prompt them
to phone surveillance to monitor your play. If and when this
happens, here are some things you may want to do (other than
leave).
Ask for a cocktail.
Continue moving your bets, but very subtly.
Ask the floorperson for a comp.
If you’re winning, place a bet for the dealer (in this instance,
alongside your bet).
Talk to the floorperson.
Talk to the dealer.
Talk to other players.
Playing Your Hands

Conduct your play as though most pit and surveillance
personnel are in tune with perfect basic strategy play and are able to
identify a player applying it. Some typical plays that communicate
that you’ve “read the book” are never taking insurance, hitting 16 vs.
ten, hitting 12 vs. 2 or 3, and hitting a hand of A,7 against a dealer’s
upcard of 9, ten, or A. One of the biggest red flags used to identify
card counters is when a player who, after not insuring a natural or a
hand of 20, all of a sudden starts insuring stiff hands. A player who
uses the surrender option properly may be suspect to an alert staff.
A risky play is splitting tens. In addition to getting pit attention,
it aggravates other players at the table. The word in the pit is that
only two types of players split tens: either complete morons or card
counters. I’m not saying that you should never split tens; at times
your count will call for it. Making these plays is part of your edge.
However, this is one that can bring immediate attention, which can
lead to heat. Here are some tips on how to get away with splitting
tens.
With minimum bets up, split tens early in the session, giving the
message that you do so at will, and not solely as the count dictates.
If there is a loud-mouthed, know-it-all, or otherwise obnoxious
player at the table, whisper to the dealer or the floorperson, “I bet if I
split tens this person will leave.” When the opportunity arises, wink
to either of them, and split those tens!
If you have a play calling for splitting tens and you’re getting
attention from the pit, make it your last play.
When You Start Winning

If the bosses see that a player is winning and doing well enough
to reach the choke point, they may wonder why that player is
winning. Most casinos require a call to surveillance once a certain
win level is reached.
To determine if a player is cheating, pit personnel are instructed
to:
Check if player is pinching (removing chips) or capping (adding
chips) bets.
Check if dealer is doing anything outside of procedures,
overpaying, or passing information to player.
Check the cards to see if there are any unusual markings,
bends, or warps.
Check to ensure the deck(s) is complete.
Pit personnel are also trained to suspect that a player could be
using a “device,” such as a concealed computer, to keep track of the
cards played and determine perfect play. It’s a felony to use a device
when playing in most casinos. The best-known concealed blackjack
computers are housed in a pair of shoes. With this knowledge, the
pit will look for any unusual movements of the player’s feet, or
unusually large shoes that may appear to be out of proportion with
the player’s height. Such a player needs to sit in an unnatural
position. A common ploy is for a casino employee to walk behind
the player and pretend to drop something, such as a chip, to get a
close look at the player’s shoes.
To determine if a player is counting cards, the pit and
surveillance use various methods. Here’s a sequence of methods
used, along with some of the countermeasures.
Two members of the pit staff observing the game from within.
Someone observing the game from behind the table.
A casino employee at the table, posing as a player, observing
your game.
Observing the player’s betting pattern. If a player is noticed
increasing a bet after several small cards appeared in the previous
round dealt, the floorperson may scan the discards.
A common countermeasure is to instruct the dealer to shuffle
immediately after the player increases the bet size. If the player pulls
back the bet, it confirms the pit’s suspicions. It’s crucial to leave the
bet out when the dealer shuffles. Some players think it’s a good idea
to split the bet into two hands when this occurs. The pit is looking
for you to do something, as they’ve read the books that suggest this
move.
If you notice the pit initially observing your game, then making a
phone call, there’s a chance that surveillance is being put on your
play. After such a phone call, you may notice your table appears to
be unsupervised. Guess again! These days, surveillance uses
different computerized methods to track a player. Using any of these
methods, they will run a skills check to determine if the player is
employing a card-counting system. If they’re performing such a live
evaluation on your play, you may even notice the dealer slowing
down the speed of the game (on instructions from a supervisor) to
facilitate an evaluation. It’s my understanding that they’ll run this
test for a minimum of a half-hour. If surveillance makes you as a
counter, the phone will ring in the pit (the call may even go to a
different pit as a relay), and a decision will be made as to what
actions will be taken. I suggest playing short sessions. Leave the club
before they have the opportunity to get a handle on your play. (See
“Surveillance Techniques,” for some updated methods.)
You Wanna Be in Movies?

The phone call has been made and your play is now being
observed by surveillance. All of a sudden, the floorperson(s)
watching your game is nowhere in sight. At this time, you think
you’re safe and can spread to your heart’s content. Right? Wrong!
Your play is being monitored from above. Here’s the textbook
procedure, used by many casinos, that they follow before backing off
a suspected card counter:
Player is observed by floorperson and suspected of counting
cards (usually after 15 minutes).
Floorperson informs pit boss, who steps in and observes player
(5–15 minutes).
Pit boss, who has reason to believe that the player is counting
cards, phones surveillance.
Surveillance monitors the player for a minimum of 30 minutes,
then phones the pit boss, informing the following:
If the player is counting cards, using any advantage play, or
cheating.
If the player is listed in the Griffin Book, Biometrica Book, or
the casino’s own “book” as a known card counter or cheating
player.
How much the player stands to win from the casino per hour,
based on the amount of the player’s bets.
Based on the above information, pit boss makes the decision
on whether to back off the player, permit further play, or refer
the matter to a shift supervisor for a decision.
Barring from Play

Once the decision has been made not to allow you to play
blackjack in a casino, you may be given the message in various ways,
enumerated below, from hints to formal notification.
Deal Around You—A floorperson will instruct the dealer to deal
around you, not allowing you to play, without saying a word to you.
The floorperson is telling you that the casino doesn’t want your
action and you should pick up your chips and leave. Do just that.
Can We Buy You Dinner?—A nice way of being told that a club
doesn’t want your action is when a floorperson approaches you and
tells you something to the effect that, “You seem to be a little too
tough on us. Why not have dinner on us, then try playing at another
casino?”
Shuffling Up or Moving Up the Cut Card—You were previously
getting decent penetration and the pit knows this. They also know
that with poor penetration, card counters lose much of their
advantage. When they suspect a player of counting, floorpersons
may instruct the dealer to shuffle sooner or move the cut card up to
worsen the penetration. In this instance, they want you to leave.
They’re saying, “We’re on to you and you won’t get a decent game
here. Leave.” Again, do what they’re telling you to. Note: This type
of extra shuffling actually costs the casino money in the long run,
since it leads to downtime during which they’re not winning bets
from the losing players.
Flat-Bet or Bet-Spread Restriction—A pit boss may approach you,
informing you that if you wish to continue playing 21, you’ll have to
either flat bet (bet the same amount each hand) or spread only 3-1
(or whatever they decide).
Restriction to Shoe Games Only—After observing your playing
single- or double-deck games, a pit boss may approach, informing
you that if you wish to continue playing 21, you may do so only on
shoe games.
Getting Backed Off—A pit boss will approach you and ask you to
step away from the table to speak with you. You’ll be told that your
21 play is too strong for the casino and you’re not permitted to play
the game in that casino any more. You’re welcome to play any other
casino game offered.
The Formal Barring—A pit boss will approach, possibly
accompanied by a uniformed security guard, and ask you to step
away from the table to speak with you. You’ll be told that you must
leave the premises immediately and are no longer permitted to
reenter the casino at any time.
The Trespass Act—If you’ve already been formally barred from a
casino and attempt to return to play 21, you run the risk of being
arrested for trespassing.
Backroom Detention—The casino doesn’t have the legal right to
detain you if you’re merely counting cards or using any other form
of “legal” advantage play. However, the casino does have the right
to detain you if they have “probable cause” to believe that you’ve
committed an illegal act (e.g., cheating). Since probable cause can be
and has proven to have been used as a lame excuse to detain players,
casinos are known to take this cheap shot. In the rare event that a
casino attempts to force you into a back room under the guise that
they believe you were cheating, the first thing you should do is insist
on speaking to the Director of Surveillance to demonstrate the
evidence of the obvious false accusation. The Surveillance
Department is separate from Table Games Operations and Security.
If a decision has been made to detain you, there’d better be
irrefutable evidence, such as a surveillance video, of such. It’s good
to be aware of your legal rights, as well as the inner workings of the
casinos, whereby exhibiting such knowledge may cause casino
employees to think twice about what they’re trying to pull off.
In all of these instances, be aware that the casino has identified
you as a card counter. Except in extreme cases, such as getting
“back-roomed,” forget about what you think your rights are and just
leave the place. There are many other places you can play.
Surveillance Techniques
Technology has come a long way in its ability to identify card
counters. Years ago, casinos were limited to watching erratic bet
spreads and any small tip-off that would lead to suspicion. Now
they have access to some state-of-the-art technology to do the job.
Armed with such tools, some casinos have the ability to identify a
skilled player from the eye in the sky in a very short time.
Impressive as some of this equipment may be, it’s only as good as
the individual operating it. When you consider the number of tables
in respect to the number of surveillance operators, it’s easy to see
how certain events can go by unnoticed. Besides, not all casinos have
sophisticated technology, so the card-counting tactics still have some
use.
In the past, decisions to track a player were initiated from the
casino floor. Nowadays, many surveillance departments take a more
proactive approach and make decisions to track players, at times,
without the knowledge of pit personnel.
Exchange of Information Among Casinos

If you’re barred from a casino that has sister properties, chances
are that your photograph will be circulated. If you’ve been formally
barred from a casino, chances are they have your photograph.
Whether they retain this photograph and other information for their
own records or share such things with other casinos is another story.
Many casinos retain the services of companies that specialize in
gaming protection.
Griffin Investigations
Griffin has been in the business of providing surveillance for its
clients (casinos) for more than 30 years. They serve the casino
industry by identifying and keeping records on cheats, thieves, card
counters, and players employing any type of advantage technique.
They maintain a book (now in four volumes with thousands of
entries) that contains names, photographs, and descriptions of
identified players. Part of their service is supplying this book to
clients and keeping it updated, by adding new entries.
Griffin also has agents who observe any suspected player from
the casino floor and gather as much information on that person as
possible. Griffin agents are known to follow players from casino to
casino, record license plates, debrief taxi drivers, even personally
follow players to their hotels, in an attempt to get their true identity.
One of their products, the Griffin 2000 System, enables a casino to
utilize a remote hookup, giving the central headquarters of Griffin
Investigations the ability to observe the activity of any player(s) or
tables(s) via live video. The Griffin GOLD product offers an
automated database of all the entries compiled from the four-volume
book. This database enables a surveillance operator to run a search
based on gender, age, race, height, weight, date of birth, address,
etc., or any combination of these variables. This is much more
effective than flipping through four volumes of mug shots. This
product can interface with the FaceIT facial recognition system,
manufactured by Visionics, Inc.
Biometrica
In 1999, a lead agent of Griffin left the organization and joined
forces with Biometrica, Inc., offering the same services, including a
similar database to that of Griffin GOLD. The database of
information comes from Casino Visual Identification (CVI), which
was developed by the former Griffin agent. As a companion to the
CVI database, Biometrica offers a facial recognition module
manufactured by Viisage, Inc.
Blackjack Survey Voice (BJSV)

This product, sold by Casino Software & Services, Inc., enables a
casino surveillance agent to view a table and, via the use of a speech-
recognition feature, recite the values of cards played, bets made, and
other pertinent information into a computer, which then analyzes
the player’s skill level. I’m told that the product has been marketed
with claims that card counters can be identified after roughly 100
hands of play in a 6-deck game. After reviewing the results of hands
played, it’s first established whether the player is playing at an
advantage. If so, BJSV then attempts to determine why. After
calculating the player’s average bet, hands dealt per hour, and
percent advantage, BJSV calculates a dollar figure indicating the
player’s potential “win per hour.” Let’s break it down further.
In terms of betting, BJSV, using a card-counting system,
summarizes the player’s activity and establishes that the player’s bet
movements correlate with that of the count. Even the use of well-
known “bet-camouflage” techniques doesn’t, it’s believed, prevent
BJSV from identifying a card counter. In its evaluation of the player’s
betting pattern, BJSV indicates the percent advantage that was
gained, as opposed to if the player was betting the same amount on
each hand dealt (flat betting).
In terms of the play of hands, it’s easy enough for any tracking
software to determine whether a player is using basic strategy in
playing decisions. When a non-basic-strategy play is made, BJSV
identifies this, then determines whether such deviation provides an
advantage to the player based on the count. In its evaluation of the
play decisions, BJSV indicates the percent advantage that was
gained, as opposed to if the player was applying strict basic strategy
decisions.
BJSV classifies players as:
Good Card Counter: Player’s betting pattern and deviations
from basic strategy show a consistent pattern resembling a
highly skilled card counter.
Card Counter: Player’s betting pattern occasionally correlates
to the count. However, the consistency is not enough to play at
a strong enough advantage over the house.
Hole-Card Player: A high percentage of the player’s deviations
from basic strategy are not consistent with the count, but would
be the correct play with knowledge of the dealer’s hole card.
Shuffle Tracker: Player’s betting pattern reveals consistency of
large bets as slugs of high cards appear.
Basic Strategy Player: Player plays basic strategy with no
deviations and no bet movements correlating to the count.
Random Bettor: Player’s betting pattern has no correlation
whatsoever to the count.
Overall, BJSV is a slick product. As with any automated product,
there are inadequacies, and a clever player can beat the system.
While I can’t point out the specific ways that BJSV can be thwarted,
the following information should steer you in the right direction.
When running a “skills check” on BJSV, most places use a
random sampling of three contiguous shoes of play. Here are a few
circumstances that may prompt a skills check:
A player betting more than $XXX per hand.
A player who buys in for more than $XXXXX.
A player who increases a bet by more than X times previous
bet.
A player makes a questionable play decision (e.g.; insurance,
splitting tens).
A player who is winning more than $XXXX during current
session.
A player who won more than $XXXX on a prior visit.
A player whose year-to-date win record is in excess of $XXXXX.
A player whose lifetime win record is in excess of $XXXXX.
Believe me, the above information can provide you with more
than enough insight on how to develop methods to foil BJSV. Find
them, learn how to work them to your advantage, and keep your
lips sealed.
Facial-Recognition Software
Use of this application is growing at a rapid pace. State
governments are becoming major users of this product, where they
can create a database resulting from photographs taken by
Department of Motor Vehicles when people apply for their driver’s
licenses. The majority of these products are based (in one way or
another) on the Eigen Face method of deconstructing and
reconstructing a facial map in digital form. A hundred key points are
mapped and the system, apparently, can create a match once 14 of
the 100 features are captured. In all of these systems, the mapping
process starts with the eyes. It’s necessary for both eyes to be visible
for the product to work. Let’s walk through the process on how the
systems operate.
First, a casino possesses a database of faces from which the
product seeks matches. This database is continually updated with
new and better-quality photos. The photos in this database are
referred to as “enrollment photos.” If you’re playing blackjack and a
casino employee gets suspicious, the surveillance room takes your
picture. This is referred to as a “probe photo.” When your photo is
scanned into the computer, a search is conducted using the existing
database.
The first point of the search is the eyes. The system focuses on the
distance between the eyes and captures the first group of possible
matches from the database. Since this key point is only one of many,
the results of this search are numerous. However, the system doesn’t
rely solely on this one key point and continues to search additional
key points in a defined sequence until the most perfect match is
realized. This search occurs in a couple of seconds! Note that
regardless of whether a match is realized, the probe photo is then
entered into the database and becomes a new enrollment photo.
It’s possible, though not practical, to have a system set up to scan
every person entering a building. There could be a “hot list” where,
if an entrant matches a face on it, an alert is sent to a surveillance
operator for review.
To realize the highest accuracy level, a front-face image must be
captured, as profiles don’t work. In addition to the distance between
eyes, other key points used for recognition are:
Head shape
Jaw structure
Chin
Nose shape
Cheekbones
Given the above information, you can figure out subtle methods
to beat the system. Here’s a hint on one weakness of the system. If it
can’t capture an accurate read on both eyes, it can’t run an accurate
match. Another important factor is that poor lighting, glare, and
reflections can prevent the system from getting an accurate read on
both eyes, is necessary. Get the picture?
Countermeasures
As we can see, the casinos mean business. Therefore, if we wish
to maintain longevity in counting cards, we must take specific
measures to survive. Here are some things to consider.
Blend in with the crowd and do everything possible not to fit
the “typical-card-counter” profile.
Play stakes acceptable to the casino in which you are playing.
Get rated using a false name.
Keep alert as to pit activity.
Limit your sessions to one hour. Based on the textbook
procedures most casinos follow, it will take them this long to get a
handle on your play. The goal, of course, is to avoid detection, but if
they do happen to detect your play, the goal then is to get out of the
casino before being asked to leave.
Be aware that just because you had a successful session, won
some money, and walked out of the club without incident, does not
mean the casino isn’t on to you. Many casinos have a policy in which
they review the films of all black-chip players at the end of each
day/shift. This is done for several purposes. One is to determine the
level of comps to extend such players. Upon review of such tapes, if
they note that you’re a solid basic strategy player, your comps won’t
be as good as those extended to an unskilled player. If it’s noted that
you’re a card counter, you may no longer be welcome to play 21. If
this happens, you won’t know it until you enter the casino again (if
you use the same name). The floorperson, upon entering the name
into the pit computer, will be alerted. Surprise!
A more recent approach is for the identification of card counters
to be performed strictly by surveillance. The philosophy of many of
the casino corporations calls for their front-line staff (to be more
customer-service oriented to keep the clients happy and coming
back. Hence, the pit may not be responsible for identifying card
counters. However, they’re responsible for ensuring that proper
actions are taken against any such player previously identified by
surveillance or other sources.
What does this mean? If you step into a casino for the first time
and count cards for three hours, there’s a chance you may play
without incident. After you leave, based on review of the
surveillance videos, you may be identified as a counter. If you return
the next day or shortly thereafter, chances are they’ll back you off
very quickly. In this new method of surveillance, you won’t see the
phone calls from the pit to surveillance mentioned earlier in the
chapter.
In the past, the pit would pay attention to big winners.
Nowadays, the smarter ones watch anyone winning consistently
over a period of time.
Think you’re safe playing low stakes? Not necessarily. If you’re
at a table playing low stakes along with one or more players betting
high stakes, the tape is reviewed, solely due to the heavy action, and
the play of the entire table may be analyzed. You can be caught that
way.
In summary, it’s getting tougher to win money from the casinos
by counting cards. Surveillance has gotten very sophisticated and, as
a player, you must keep abreast of the various techniques used by
casinos. In the past a good act would be able to fool them, but
nowadays it won’t always work. The computers see just the
numbers and not the act.
To Minimize Detection
• Avoid playing a same club/shift more than once every few
months.
• When playing the same club during a different shift, use a
different name under which you get rated.
• Be aware of which casinos may share information.
• If playing low stakes, avoid playing at tables with high
rollers.
• Avoid playing at a table where the chip tray is low on chips
and in need of a fill. This would halt the action and bring
attention to the table.
• Consider employing team play techniques (see Chapter 27).
• Consider playing with the use of disguises.
• Develop skills in methods not detectable by surveillance.
The Typical Card Counter Profile

The following are some of the characteristics of a typical
inexperienced card counter, whom most pit and surveillance staff
members would identify immediately:
Player’s Actions
• Stares at all the cards.
• Moves lips while looking at cards.
• Not talking much.
• Appears very serious at the table.
• Meticulously stacks and sorts chips.
• Looks guilty, annoyed, or suspicious when spoken to.
• Observes game from behind the tables, often prior to entering
a game.
• Does not order liquor to drink, but most commonly bottled
water or juice.
• Sits at 3rd base.
• Not interested in being rated.
• Does not tip.
• Shows no emotion when winning or losing.
• “Sneakily” pockets (hides) chips.
• Obvious in attempt to put on an act. (Many novice counters
make this mistake. They try to become actors without formal
training. The biggest joke to the pit is watching some
graduate student trying to give the impression of a New York
hoodlum. HELLO! The books we’ve read are available to the
general public and the casino staff read the same books.)
• Circling the pit, looking too observantly at the tables.
• Asking how many decks are being used.
Player’s Appearance
• Young, Caucasian, English-speaking male.
• Intelligent looking. Looks like a college student or professor.
• Intelligent sounding. Articulate.
• Clean-cut look. Well groomed. Maybe wearing glasses.
• Wearing sunglasses, visor, or baseball cap. Keeping head
down.
• No suntan, but pale skin—if casino is located at place and
time when tourists would be sporting a suntan. (It’s wise to
wear light-colored clothing where light skin will blend in, and
if you do have a tan, the light clothing will amplify it, giving
you more of a “fun-loving” type of appearance.)
Camouflage
Attire
It’s important to dress the role. If you’re playing in a high-roller-
type casino and betting large amounts, it’s essential that you be
properly attired.
In the daytime, you can get away with a golf shirt and slacks or a
silk jogging suit. Jewelry is important. In the evening you want to
dress the role even more so. A sports jacket, designer wear all
around with the necessary accessories, and a pair of expensive shoes
work well. If you’re not betting this type of money, you can tone
down the look a bit. It’s a good idea to go into the casinos where you
plan to play and observe the attire on the folks who are betting in the
same range that you intend to play.
Cover Plays
Some books recommend that when counters feel as though
they’re being watched, they should make some plays contrary to the
proper strategy to throw the pit off. I don’t recommend using this
tactic as often as others may. What I do recommend is to consider
altering certain proper-play decisions, if you feel your act is weak
and you’re being watched. Plays you may wish to alter, even though
your strategy says they are the proper plays, include:
Insuring stiff hands.
Not insuring a natural.
Splitting tens.
Hitting a soft 18 vs. T.
Hitting 16 vs. T.
Hitting 12 vs. 2 or 3.
Proper use of the surrender option when available.
It’s not necessary to deviate from too many proper-play
decisions, as the main thing that will give you away as a counter is
your bet spread. If you’re smooth enough, you can get away with
making the proper plays, which would normally raise an eyebrow or
two.
Movement of Bets
Most counters get caught by using too aggressive of a bet spread.
It’s important to master the art of moving your bets in a subtle
manner. A few tips that may help you stay below the radar:
Do not increase your bet after a losing hand.
Do not decrease your bet after a winning hand.
Leave the same bet out after a push.
When you have a large bet out and the dealer shuffles, leave
the bet out.
When increasing your bet, use a parlay method, nothing more.
Combine chips of different colors in the betting circle.
Some Tips on “Acts”

Try to develop an “act” in a manner that would blend in with
your personality. If you’re from New York City and have that
accent, move your hands and gesture when you speak. Do that often
at the table. Be that “wise-guy New Yorker.” In Mississippi casinos,
they really find this type of player an amusing novelty, whereas in
Atlantic City, you simply blend in as one of many.
Think about yourself for a moment. What are you like? Take me,
for example. In general, I’m the type of person who’s a bit shy until I
get to know someone or become more familiar with the environment
I’m in. Once at ease, I drop my guard and talk more freely. Here’s a
good approach if you’re like me: When you go into a casino, keep in
mind that the pit staff and casino hosts will probably try to
schmooze you and make you feel at home. It’s imperative that you
let them think that they’re succeeding. You can do this by talking
about one of your favorite topics and acting as if you’re sitting at a
bar or in your living room with one of your longtime friends.
The key is to be at ease, and naturally be yourself, with a few
minor amplifications. If you’re a salesperson by profession or have
that overly exuberant type of personality, ham it up! A sport is
usually a good topic. The stock market may work. If the person isn’t
familiar with investing, start explaining it, giving all kinds of advice
(if this is an area of expertise for you).
Once again, all this must appear to come naturally to you, and
not be forced.
Disguising Wins and Hiding Chips

I’ve seen it written and heard it spoken many times that the best
form of camouflage is losing. What this really means is that a player
should appear to be losing in the eyes of the casino. Whether you’re a
rated player with a play history or a one-time player at a particular
casino, showing a loss or understating wins can work wonders in
alleviating heat. It all boils down to the value of chips the casino
records you leaving the table with. Your mission is to hide some
chips before you end your playing sessions.
First and foremost, it’s not a crime to remove your chips from the
table and place them in your pocket or give them to another person.
Do the casinos frown on it? Yes. But players do it and there’s no way
a casino can rightfully prohibit it. Hiding chips makes it much more
difficult for pit personnel to track a player’s win or loss. Hence, it
becomes part of your job to hide chips without the pit or surveillance
staff’s knowledge. Here are three of many methods.
Pocketing Chips—Using a palming technique, periodically remove
a chip of a desired denomination. Timing is crucial and you want to
make this move when the dealer and pit staff are busy or distracted.
A good time to pocket chips is during a dealer change. As for
surveillance, there’s no way to determine whether they’re watching
and tapes can always be reviewed. The key is to give them no reason
to do either.
Handing Off Chips—Similarly, players can give chips to wives or
friends who walk up during play. Using discretion and good timing,
this can be an effective way to hide chips.
Transferring Chips—One of the flaws in the above two methods is
that the pit staff keeps a close record of the chips in the dealer’s tray
and the amount in front of each active player. When a player colors
up and leaves the table, the floorperson will recalculate the total
chips. If this total is less than what his records show, he might
“assign” the amount of the difference to the player, thus fudging the
player’s results. Transferring chips is a method—used most
effectively with a team—to replace the unrecorded chips a player
removes from a table. If a player (A) is winning, he arranges for a
teammate (B), who is not being rated, to sit next to him at the table. B
already has chips purchased or won from a previous session, but
places only some of his chips in front of him at the table. He has
plenty in his pocket and, at an opportune time (usually called in
with signals), A removes chips from the table and pockets them. At
the same time, B removes the same value of chips from his pocket
and places them in front of himself at the table. When A leaves the
table, the total chip count won’t show a discrepancy and A has
effectively disguised his win. When B leaves the table, he’s recorded
as having won the same amount of chips that A pocketed. It doesn’t
matter, since B is unrated, using an alias, or otherwise anonymous.
Here are some additional tips on handling/hiding chips:
• Observe and note the pit procedures for players leaving the
table.
• Determine what denomination of chip is best to pull from the
game. The higher the denomination, the more closely it’s
monitored, so care should be exercised when making this
decision. While $100 chips may be freely paid out, the dealer
may call out to the pit whenever a $1,000 chip is paid,
prompting the floorperson to notice who receives it. In this
case, don’t even think about transferring a $1,000 chip.
• It’s easier to hide chips when other big bettors are at the table.
• Observe and note the cashier procedures for cashing out
chips, which vary by casino.
• The amount of chips you cash out at the cashier should not be
more than the amount the floorperson recorded you leaving
with. If you plan to play additional sessions at that casino, it’s
beneficial to hold a predetermined amount of chips to avoid
excessive cash buy-ins.
Cashing Out
You just won some money and leave the table with your chips.
All you need to do now is go to the cashier window and exchange
the chips for cash. Sounds easy, right? Well, it is easy if you’re
cashing out a small amount. But when you reach a certain level,
which varies by casino, the process can get a bit complicated by
identification issues related to CTRs and SARs, as discussed in the
next chapter, “Casinos and Personal Privacy.” You need to be well-
versed in the rules and requirements and consider them before
cashing.

15
Casinos and Personal Privacy
Players smart enough to win must also be sharp enough not to

fall prey to the manipulative methods of the casinos. This is
especially true in the case of card counters. Whether you’re a
professional player with a winning system or a recreational player
just looking to have some uncomplicated fun, you must avoid the
pitfalls and protect your personal privacy.
As time marches on, it’s increasingly difficult to preserve
personal privacy. Aside from proving age to purchase alcohol or
cigarettes, or to enter a casino, the rule today is that an individual
present some form of “government-issued photo identification” for
entrance to buildings, opening a bank account, checking into a hotel
room, obtaining telephone service, and many other necessary day-
to-day activities. Our society has made it a requirement, not a law, to
provide such documentation in order to function in a normal
manner.
First and foremost, simply by applying for “official” identification
of any sort, you are, in essence, providing the issuer (government
agency) with your life story. You are now in the database. The three
most common forms of official identification are driver’s license,
passport, and military ID. Every time you comply with a request to
present such identification, you’re at risk of revealing your personal
information to at least one stranger.
It’s understandable that businesses have such requirements as a
measure of protection against fraud and the like. However, in the
majority of instances where identification requirements exist, they’ve
been instituted with the specific purpose of gathering as much
information about as many individuals as possible. Translation: The
businesses want your information for marketing. We’re being
manipulated by what society now dictates as a necessity. This can be
dangerous, as your most critical information ends up in the
database, accessible to any number of interested parties.
One of the most notorious perpetrators of this practice is the
casino industry.
Your Driver’s License, Please

Both individual and team players are becoming more and more
concerned about privacy protection. The average citizen has been
brainwashed into automatically turning over a driver’s license
whenever asked for a “photo ID.” Even worse, persons requesting a
form of photo ID now ask for a driver’s license just out of habit.
Do you automatically give your driver’s license to anyone who
requests it? Congratulations. You’ve just joined the ranks of the
majority of Americans who are routinely providing unknown
persons with a license to steal. Go ahead and call it paranoid, but
open your wallet and take a look at all the wonderful information on
that harmless little card. Your driver’s license has your name, home
address, and date of birth. Some states even include your Social
Security number on the face of the license. This one little card gives
away all the data necessary to steal your identity. All it takes is one
individual with larcenous intent.
Identity Theft and Casinos

The following concerns are not limited to casinos—they apply to
any business that interfaces with the general public. Still, few other
businesses toss money around so openly and freely. This in itself
attracts a certain type of thinking, one that involves theft.

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able to complete each one accurately, giving the responses without

Sequence to Learn Play Variations

Note: As insurance is only one number, it’s not included in the

Drill Number Two—Hard-Doubling Variations

Drill Number Four—All Variations

Drill Number Five—To Vary or Not to Vary

Answers to Drill Number Two

Answers to Drill Number Four

If you’ve learned the systems outlined in the previous chapters

Bet Sequence for 6-Deck Game

Unbalanced Zen II Count

Bet Sequence for 2-Deck Game

Bet Sequence for 6-Deck Game

Converting to True Count Using Half-Deck Segments

Conversion for 2-Deck Game

Drill Number One

Drill Number Two

Conversion for 4-Deck Game

Drill Number Three

Drill Number Four

Conversion for 6-Deck Game

Drill Number Five

Drill Number Seven

Determining Normal Number of Aces Played

Adjusting the Running Count with the Ace Factor

Converting to True Count

Thinking Sequence for Establishing True Count

Add the ace factor to the unadjusted running count to determine

Methods for Keeping a Side Count

Answers to Drill Number Six

Putting It All Together

In the previous chapters, we learned how to vary our bets in

First Casino-Play Experience

You’ve spent the time necessary to learn a valid card-counting

Developing a Game Plan

How Much Should I Bet? How Much Money Should I Bring?

How Long Should Each Playing Session Be?

How Do I Keep Track of My Playing Sessions?

In the provision for penetration, we want to note how many

Things to Do and Not Do While Playing

How do you determine what is sufficient funding for a bankroll?

What happens if you should lose half your bankroll?

Interaction with Casino Personnel

While playing, you interact with casino personnel. This chapter

Heat, Casino Countermeasures,

In the previous chapter, we outlined the roles of the various

How Much is too Much?

Who is this Person?

Use of Different Names

Obtaining a Casino Players Card

Moving Your Bets

Playing Your Hands

When You Start Winning

You Wanna Be in Movies?

Barring from Play

Exchange of Information Among Casinos

Blackjack Survey Voice (BJSV)

The Typical Card Counter Profile

Some Tips on “Acts”

Disguising Wins and Hiding Chips

Casinos and Personal Privacy

Players smart enough to win must also be sharp enough not to

Your Driver’s License, Please