Sir,

One thing I want to make sure is that the IAC is set correctly and that you set the throttle blades front
and rear using both adjustment throttle screws.  It is commonly done that this is set using only the front
throttle screw and if it is not set with the back screw also it can create all types of issues.   Here is the
procedure to do that. 

This will be done with the engine off and key does not need to be on. 
1.            Disconnect the throttle peddle from the throttle body, so we know it is not moving or holding
the throttle.
2.            Unscrew both front and rear adjustment screws so they just come off of the pivot arm stop.
3.            Starting with the front screw, screw the adjustment screw in until it touches the pivot stop and
you just see the throttle arm/blades just start to move.  Once you see this movement screw the screw in
½ turn (If the engine is pretty stout go ¾-1 turn in)
4.            On the rear screw we are going to do the exact same thing, screw the adjustment in until you
see it touch and move then go a ½ turn (If the engine is pretty stout go ¾-1 turn in)
5.            This will set the blades close enough to start and warm up for final adjustment.  We just want
the engine to idle, if it is high that is ok until it warms up if it is low and wont idle go in a small amount
on both screws until it will idle.
6.            Start engine and let it warm up to 170 degrees F while the engine is warming up go into Go EFI
Initial set up, then go into Idle set up.  In Idle set up go to the 3 option Idle Screw set TPS and
change that from Normal to Adjust and send to ecu.  This will lock the TPS so it does not change
the TPS value as you are adjusting the throttle body.  If you do not have this option that is ok, let
the engine warm up.  Once the engine is at 170 or better go into dashboard on the main screen
and look at the IAC steps.  With the engine running and the temp at or above 170 adjust
accordingly.  If the IAC is above 10 you will screw in the screws until the IAC steps falls below 10
but does not sit on zero.  If the IAC steps are staying on Zero and the idle is above the desired
setting you will unscrew the screws until the IAC jumps back and forth from a number under 10
but not staying on zero and the idle is at your target RPM.   
7.            While you are making your fine adjustments keep an eye on the TPS value if you do not have
the lock TPS option mentioned above, if it goes above .5 shut the engine off and let it sit for 30-
45 seconds. Start the engine back up and continue with the throttle blade adjustment.
8.            Reconnect the throttle cable/rod.

Normally when the IAC is correct it will jump between 0 and a number under 10 but never sits on 0 and
the target/programmed idle RPM is met then the IAC is set.  I would also recommend running a 10-14
gauge wire from the passenger side front mounting tab of the throttle body to the negative side of the
battery  This will ensure the unit has the best ground it can and eliminates the intake being the ground
for the system. 

The other things is making sure the cam selection is right and making some AFR adjustments The basic
set up is in Go EFI initial set up and then Engine Set up.  You will set your engine parameters in this
screen, on the cam selection choose 2 for now. Once the engine us up to temperature you can switch
the cam selection from 2 to 1 and from 2 to 3 and see which gives you the best overall idle and
smoothness.  Normally cam 1 is for vacuum numbers of 15 inches and higher, cam 2 is for vacuum
numbers of 10-15 cam 3 is 5-10 and cam 4 is 8 and under.  If you do not see a difference in idle quality
you can look at AFT Trim % under dashboard and whichever cam selection gives you the lowest number,
closest to 0 is the better choice.  The only other thing I would adjust before driving it would be the AFR’s,
If you go into Go EFI Tuning and then in to AFR Targets, the Idle is defaulted to 13.6 you can raise that to
13.8-14.2 range and see how the engine likes it.  The higher the number the leaner and there is not a
wrong number here, the engine will tell you when it is to lean.  If you can get to 14.7 for example and
the engine idle quality is good and you do not have any heating issues at idle that is ok.   The next two
are ok the 4th one down 6000 45 kPa I would bump up to 13.4-13-8. The 45 kPa are your cruise numbers
these can be adjusted up or down under light load freeway type driving, if you get to lean you will start
to get a surge out of the engine, this would be done on a level load no throttle changes.  You might be
able to get as high as 14.7-15.0 but that is normally a little to lean on a conventional engine.  The last
three are your wide-open numbers the normal range for this on a normally aspirated engine is 12.5-
13.5.  The first to WOT number I would bump up to 13.00-13.2 and the last one I would bump up to
12.9-13.2.  this is still pretty much middle of the scale but will perform much better than the 12.6-12.5. 

Let us know if you have any issues or questions.

Thanks,

Joe