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FOX / Help Center / Bike / 2010-2015 DHX RC4/RC2 Rebuild

2010-2015 DHX RC4/RC2 Rebuild

Required Parts
024-02-490 Decal: 2014 DHX RC4 Reservoir, Gold (optional)
024-02-491 Decal: 2014 Factory DHX RC4 Reservoir, (No Gold) (optional)
024-02-492 Decal: 2014 DHX RC2 Reservoir (optional)
803-00-828 Seal Kit: DHX RC2/RC4 Damper Rebuild, 0.5in Shaft

Required Tools
027-00-006 Pump: Fox HP w/ Bleed, Foldable, 300 psi
398-00-280 Tooling: Eyelet Torque Tool
803-00-208 Kit: Clamp, Shaft and Body, 2005 DHX
803-00-378 Kit: DHX RC4_RC2 Shaft/Resi Clamp Set
803-00-463 Kit: Fill Machine Adapter, 04-07 Epic IV, DHX Air, RC2_RC4 Shocks

Supplies Needed
#1-64 screw
1" Crows Foot
1" Wrench
17mm Box-end Wrench
2mm Hex Wrench
3/8" Socket
32mm Headset Wrench
8mm Box-end Wrench
Calipers
Needle-Nosed Pliers
Propane Torch
Seal Pick
Torque Bar
Torque Wrench
Waste Oil Basin

Sections
Disassembly
Shaft Assembly Rebuild
DSC Damping Adjust Assembly Rebuild
Body and Reservoir Assembly Rebuild
Reassembly

WARNING: FOX products should be serviced by a qualified bicycle service technician, in accordance with FOX
specifications. If you have any doubt whether or not you can properly service your FOX product, then DO NOT attempt it.
Improperly serviced products can fail, causing the rider to lose control resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

Some pictures below show earlier versions of the DHX RC4 however the service procedure will guide you through the
rebuild of a 2014 DHX RC4. For specific part information and assembly drawings please visit the Parts List page for 2014
DHX RC4/RC2 »
Disassembly

Step 1
Clean the exterior of the shock before disassembly.
Remove the air valve cap and deflate the Air Assist
chamber.

Step 2
Turn out the high speed compression adjuster all
the way (counter-clockwise).
Step 3
Reposition the retaining ring with a pick so the split
in the ring is at the 6 o'clock position and a dowel
pin hole is exposed.

Step 4
Using the pick tool leveraged into a dowel pin hole,
get under the snap ring to gently pry it up and
remove. 
Step 5
Removing the retaining ring exposes two pins that
align the DSC valve assembly in the eyelet. These
are easily removed with a #1-64 screw, but you can
use a pick tool to carefully remove them.

Step 6
With the alignment pins removed, attach a hand
pump and slowly apply a little air pressure while
holding the shock over a drain basin to dislodge and
remove the damping adjust subassembly. Once the
DSC assembly has been removed, cycle the shock
over your drain to purge most of the oil.
Step 7
Remove the bearing assembly with a 1" wrench and
drain the remaining oil from the body. 

Step 8
Remove the reservoir end cap assembly with a 32
mm headset wrench. The Park Tool 32mm x 36mm
HCW15 works well for this application.
 Step 9
With needle nose pliers, grip the internal floating
piston (IFP) and lift it straight up to remove. Wrap
the plier tips with tape, to help protect the IFP from
damage.

Step 10
The DHX RC4/RC2 is now diassembled into its main
subassemblies.

Shaft Assembly Rebuild

Step 1
Clamp the shaft in a 1/2" shaft clamp and remove
the piston bolt with a 3/8" wrench. Remove the
valving assembly and set aside keeping all parts in
order. 

Step 2
Lay out the valve shims in the original order on a
fresh lint free paper towel.
Step 3
Clean and inspect the shims thoroughly for any
pitting, rust blemishes or damage from being
bent/over-flexed. Replace any that show wear or
damage.

Step 4
Remove the Bearing Assembly from the
shaft. Inspect the bushing for signs of excessive
wear. Make sure the bottom-out bumper is in good
condition.
 Step 5
Replace and lightly grease the internal and external
o-rings and the yellow u-cup seal with Slick Honey.

Step 6
Remove the shaft from the clamps and remove the
bottom-out bumper, before inverting and re-
securing the shaft back in the clamps. Briefly heat
the Shaft Eyelet to break down the red Loctite.

Note: Images show a pre-2014 5/8" shaft assembly. O-ring placement is now in the end of the shaft for 1/2" shaft 2014
DHX RC4/RC2 shocks. The configuration is the same as original DHX 5.0 style shocks and current Van R/RC shocks.
Step 7
Remove the eyelet from the shaft with the aid of a
torque bar. 
 

Step 8
Remove the rebound rod and replace the o-ring in
the end of the shaft. Clean any Loctite residue from
the eyelet and shaft threads.
Step 9
Remove the rebound knob from the shaft eyelet
assembly, being careful to not lose the detent ball
and spring. Inspect the condition of the tapered
surface on the knob. This surface comes in contact
with the rebound rod as the rebound knob is
adjusted, so it must be contaminant-free; only a
light film of grease should be present when the
knob is installed into the eyelet.

Step 10
Check the overall condition of the eyelet and eyelet
bushing. When replacing the bushing, verify that the
eyelet hole is round. If the eyelet hole is not round,
replace the eyelet.
Step 11
Apply a little Slick Honey to the detent ball and
spring and place these back into the rebound knob.
Next, lightly apply Slick honey to the knob threads
and tapered surface, and install the rebound knob
into the eyelet assembly.

Step 12
Apply a drop of red Loctite 277 to the shaft threads.
Install the rebound rod leaving it partially out from
the threaded end of the shaft. Thread the eyelet
assembly onto the shaft until hand tight.
Step 13
Clamp the shaft and tighten the eyelet assembly to
the shaft to 110 in-lb (12.4 Nm) torque.

Step 14
Test for normal functioning of the rebound adjust
knob and rod, by applying some pressure to the end
of the rod inside the shaft as you turn the rebound
adjust knob. After testing, be sure to leave the
rebound knob all the way out (counter-clockwise).
Step 15
Install the bottom out bumper onto the shaft
followed by the bearing assembly.

Step 16
Fill the shaft and rebound assembly with oil. Slide
the seal head bearing up to the end of the shaft, to
seal the bleed hole in the shaft.
 Step 17
Fill the compression holes in the piston with oil, and
install the piston onto the shim stack. Invert the
piston assembly and install it onto the shaft
assembly. Tighten the piston bolt to 75 in-lb (8.5
Nm) torque.

Step 18
Pre-fill every hole in the piston with oil and pop any
visible bubbles with a small tool taking care not to
damage any shims. Set aside maintaining this
vertical position until needed later for final
assembly.

DSC Damping Adjust Assembly Rebuild

Images show an RC4 Damping Adjust Assembly. Although some parts are different in the RC2 Damping Adjust Assembly,
most of this procedure can be used to service the RC2 Damping Adjust Assembly with some minor changes. Please refer to
the assembly drawings on the Parts List page for 2014 DHX RC4/RC2 »
Step 1
Use a 17mm wrench on the HSC adjuster and an
8mm wrench to loosen and remove the piston bolt.
Stage all parts on a lint free paper towel in original
assembly order during removal. 

Step 2
Lightly secure the HSC adjuster in a soft-jawed vise.
With a pick tool, remove the retaining ring from the
HCS adjuster.
Step 3
Remove the radial spring that secures the detent
balls (PN 010-01-012) in the assembly housing. Use
two pick tools, as shown below. Be careful as the
radial spring wants to eject from the assembly

Step 4
With the retaining ring and detent balls removed
and set aside, unthread the left-hand threaded shaft
clockwise to remove it from the assembly housing. 
Step 5
Remove the two detent balls from the assembly
housing and replace the internal o-ring (PN 029-08-
023). 

Step 6
Secure the HSC adjuster subassembly into the
clamps as shown. Turn the blue LSC knob in
(clockwise) 2 clicks. With a hex driver in one of the 4
holes in the blue LSC knob to stop it from rotating,
loosen and remove the low speed compression
(LSC) adjust knob screw with a 2mm hex wrench. 
Step 7
Use the small notch found inside the shaft cavity to
help to slip your pick tool behind the retaining ring.
Remove the retaining ring.

Step 8
Use the LSC knob without the screw to leverage out
the LSC adjuster. Take care not to lose the detent
ball and spring that can eject as the LSC adjuster is
being removed. Use the LSC adjuster to unthread
and remove the LSC needle.
Step 9
When all the parts are clean or replaced and ready
for assembly, lightly grease the threads and o-ring
of the LSC needle. Insert the needle into the HSC
adjuster.

Step 10
Thread in the LSC needle with a hex wrench or the
LSC adjuster. 
Step 11
Apply a thin film of Slick Honey to the hole in the
LSC adjuster followed by the detent spring and
ball. Lightly hold the LSC adjuster with needle nose
pliers. Gently press the LSC adjuster into the needle,
aligning the post with the hex in the needle while
also making sure the detent ball clicks home.

Step 12
Install the retaining ring making sure the ring is
completely seated. Install the LSC knob. With a hex
driver in one of the 4 holes in the blue LSC knob to
stop it from rotating, install the set screw and
torque to 7 in-lb (0.8 Nm) with a 2mm hex wrench.
Step 13
Thread the left-hand threaded adjuster knob
subassembly counter-clockwise into the DSC adjust
housing. Install the retaining ring onto the HSC
adjuster.

Step 14
Grease the 2 detent balls with Slick Honey and
install into the DSC housing. Install the radial spring
to secure the detent balls.
Step 15
With a small tool, rotate the radial spring so that is
covers both detent balls but does not cover the two
flutes for the dowel pins used in the eyelet
assembly.

Step 16
Replace the external o-ring on the DSC housing and
grease with Slick Honey. Install the spring guide and
wave spring as shown.
Step 17
Install the HSC shuttle so the side with the thinner
raised ring is facing away from the wave spring.
Install the remainder of the shim stack in order.

Step 18
Install the DSC piston followed by the piston bolt.
Torque to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm). Coat a new o-ring with
Slick Honey and install onto the DSC piston. 
 Step 19
The completed DSC damping assembly is now ready
to install into the eyelet assembly.

Body and Reservoir Assembly Rebuild

Step 1
Use a torch or heat gun to help remove the reservoir
decal. The decal must be removed so the reservoir
can properly fit in the clamps or appropriate friction
wrench for removal. Use a shop towel and Isopropyl
alcohol to remove the decal adhesive residue. 
Step 2
Clamp the reservoir in the vise and apply some heat
with a torch to break down the Loctite in the eyelet
threads. Unthread the eyelet from the reservoir with
a torque bar. Caution, the eyelet and reservoir may
be hot.

Step 3
Remove the check valve and spring from the end of
the reservoir. Clean and instpect the check shim and
spring and set aside. Inspect the reservoir for clean
threads and bore.
Step 4
Clamp the shock body in your vise and apply heat
with a torch to the eyelet to break down the Loctite.
Unthread the eyelet with a torque bar. Caution the
eyelet and body may be hot.

Step 5
Clean the Loctite from the eyelet and body threads
and replace the o-rings. Thoroughly clean the body
with Isopropyl alcohol and dry. Inspect the bore for
any scratches, nicks, gouges, or other damage and
replace if necessary.

Step 6
Inspect the seal glands at both ends of the body for
any damage.

Step 7
Make sure the eyelet o-rings are greased with Slick
Honey. Apply some blue Loctite 242 to the body
threads as shown. Do not allow Loctite to contact
the o-ring gland at the end of the body.

Step 8
Thread the eyelet onto the body by hand, then
clamp in the shaft clamps. Torque the eyelet to 35
ft-lb (420 in-lb or 47.5 Nm).

Step 9
Install the check shim and check spring into the
reservoir form the eyelet end. Apply some Blue
Loctite 242 to the reservoir threads then thread the
reservoir into the eyelet assembly. 

Step 10
Clamp the reservoir in your shaft clamps and torque
the eyelet to 35 ft-lb (420 in-lb or 47.5 Nm).
Reassembly

Step 1
Align the two flutes in the DSC housing with the
two flutes in the inside of the eyelet assembly.
Guide the damping adjuster assembly into the
eyelet assembly with a thin driver in the flutes to
help keep everything aligned. Press the damping
adjuster assembly into the eyelet until it snaps into
place.

Step 2
Install the two dowel pins followed by the retaining
ring. Make sure that the open section of the
retaining ring is oriented opposite the dowel pins

Step 3
Prefill the body and the reservoir with FOX 10wt.
red oil, for preliminary bleeding. Coat the IFP o-ring
with Slick Honey before installing it onto the IFP.
Step 4
With the bleed screw removed, insert the greased
IFP into the reservoir chamber. Push it down until
oil just starts to come out of the bleed screw hole,
then loosely install the bleed screw.

Step 5
Fill the body approximately half way with FOX
10wt. red oil. With needle-nosed pliers, gently grasp
the IFP and smoothly push it down while watching
for bubbles in the body oil.

Step 6
Add more oil to the body and pull up on the IFP
with your needle-nosed pliers. Pull the IFP all the
way up, but not out of the reservoir, then remove
the bleed screw.

Step 7
Push the IFP down again until oil just starts to come
out of the bleed screw hole. Reinstall the bleed
screw and push the IFP all the way down. Repeat
step 6 until no air bubbles are found in the body oil.
Step 8
Pull the IFP approximately 1/3 of the way up, then
add oil to the body as smoothly as possible to
prevent aeration of the oil. Smoothly and quickly
invert the shaft assembly and install it into the
body.

Step 9
Torque the bearing assembly to 35 ft-lb (420 in-lb
or 47.5 Nm) with a 1" crows foot. 

Step 10
Remove the IFP bleed screw then set IFP depth by
measuring from the IFPs flat surface, not the raised
rim.

Size IFP Depth

10.500 x 3.500 1.100in
9.500 x 3.000 1.020in
8.750 x 2.750 0.980in
8.500 x 2.500 0.940in
7.875 x 2.250 0.900in
7.875 x 2.000 0.860in
7.500 x 2.000 0.860in
Step 11
Install the IFP bleed screw and torque to 7 in-lb (0.8
Nm) while holding the IFP with needle-nosed pliers.
Drain any excess oil from the reservoir.

Step 12
Reorient the shock in the vise so the eyelet is higher
than the body and the reservoir is on top. Press
against the IFP to support it while you compress the
shock fully. Reorient the shock in the vise so the
shaft is pointing straight up, then push down the IFP
while you pull the shaft completely out. If bled
properly no air will be felt or heard during this
process.

Step 13
Remove the IFP bleed screw to inspect for any
trapped air in the IFP reservoir. If air is found, repeat
step 12, reset IFP depth as shown in step 10, and
reinstall the bleed screw. 

Step 14
 Thread on and torque the reservoir end cap
assembly into the reservoir at 25 ft-lb (300 in-lb or
33.9 Nm). 

Step 15
Add approximately 160 psi to the Air Assist chamber
and reinstall the air valve cap. Dyno test the shock
to endure proper function. Thoroughly clean the
exterior of the shock.

Distributor and OEM service documents access Connect

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