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Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 1

W E L C O M E T O

TORAJA
After a wondrous journey that moves you through
interchanging sights of stunning karst cliffs, lofty
mountains and vast sea, you will arrive in Toraja.

The Torajans are an indigenous Austronesian ethnic group


located in a mountainous region of Sulawesi Selatan,
Indonesia. Alongside their rich culture and traditions,
Torajans also treasure the abundant myths about the
origin of their name. Learn the history of Toraja, where
its people have been shaped by the surrounding landscape
and blessed with great longevity.

In this land, well-preserved ancestral traditions are


practiced within the peaceful communal society. Recently
introduced ideas, such as Christianity, synchronize
harmoniously with local customs, making Toraja
someplace special. Witness the dramatic ceremonies,
family bonds, cuisine and art of the only living megalithic
culture in the modern world.

Enveloped by magnificent natural landscapes, Toraja is full


of life-changing experiences and is waiting to be explored.
Toraja’s nature, once it casts its spell, will eternally ensnare
you in its net of bewilderment. Let the land embrace you
and allow the air to sing you a melody of serenity.

The beliefs that Torajans hold dear to their hearts are


reflected in every handcrafted wonder, all conceived by the
genuine intention that these products will be beneficial to
their community and the world around them. Coffee and
hand-woven fabrics are known to bear the signature taste
and patterns Toraja is famed for.

Traditional carving

2 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


CONTENTS
4. Map of Indonesia 18. Toraja & Beyond 32. Travel Tips
5. Map of Sulawesi 24. Ethnic Torajans 33. When To Go
6. Toraja Map 25. Events & Festivals 34. Getting Around
7. How to get there 26. Local Marvels 36. Business Listing
10. Cultural Exploration 27. Culinary Heritage 38. Toraja DMO
14. Toraja Adventure 29. Community-Based Tourism 39. Languages

10 14 18
PUBLISHER DESIGN INQUIRY
Toraja DMO with support from Swisscontact Swisscontact and Toraja DMO To advertise in Toraja promotional
and SECO (State Secretariat for Economic programs, including Brochure, City Map,
Affairs) of the Swiss Confederation. No part of DISTRIBUTOR e-Newsletter, and Website, please contact:
this publication may be copied or reproduced in Toraja DMO, Makale, Tana Toraja, info@visittoraja.com
any form by any means. Sulawesi Selatan, Indonesia

PHOTOGRAPHY COVER: Manganda Dancer


Toraja DMO, Swisscontact, Djuna Ivereigh
(www.djunapix.com)

EMAIL WEBSITE
Visit Toraja @VisitToraja @visittoraja
info@visittoraja.com www.visittoraja.com

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 3


WHERE INDONESIA
An archipelago of amazement is definitely not an overstatement. Indonesia is a celestial haven for

WE ARE your mind to wonder over and your soul to wander through. It is an archipelago comprising of more
than 17,000 islands with hundreds of ethnic groups speaking many different languages and is the
home of thousands of diverse attractions, each with their own unique values. Indonesia will most
likely satisfy your inner desire for an adventure, for leisure or even for a spiritual experience. What
you’re about to see may be beyond your wildest dreams..

4 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


SULAWESI
Formerly known as Celebes,
Sulawesi is an island that is part
of four Greater Sunda Islands
and situated between Borneo and
Maluku Islands. This enormous
and charismatic island has so much
to offer. Meet the people from the
highlands, Torajans who live with
a culture that has independently
evolved through the dramatic
geography and topography. This
island is abundant with beauty
and culture: from Wakatobi’s white
sand beaches, Togian Islands’
fringe coral reefs and variety of
fish, to the famous Bugis seafarers
who mainly inhabit Sulawesi’s
coastal regions and are well
known as Indonesia’s most famous
seafarers. Going further into the
interior, Sulawesi is shaded by
impenetrable mountains and
jungles filled with wildlife.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 5


TORAJA
MAP
• KABUPATEN (REGENCY OF)
TANA TORAJA
AREA
2,054.30 Km2
CAPITAL CITY
Makale
Tourist Information Center
Tana Toraja:
Address: Pongtiku Road no. 35,
Makale – Tana Toraja
Phone: +62 423 24804

• KABUPATEN (REGENCY OF)


TORAJA UTARA
AREA
1,151.47 Km2
CAPITAL CITY
Rantepao
Tourist Information Center
Toraja Utara:
Address: Ahmad Yani Road no. 62,
Rantepao – Toraja Utara
Phone: +62 423 25455

6 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


HOW TO
GET THERE

BY PLANE BY BUS CHARTERED VEHICLES


If you don’t have much time to travel, a After you arrive in Makassar, buses are If travelling in a large group, a chartered car
flight from Sultan Hasanuddin International the most common and reliable means of or bus can be the best way to visit Toraja from
Airport in Makassar to Lagaligo Bua Airport transportation to traverse the 300 kilometers Makassar, the city being an international
in Palopo is the fastest way to reach Toraja. from Makassar to Toraja. There are many gateway for South Sulawesi. You can also
From Makassar to Palopo, there are daily bus operators from Makassar to Toraja, visit some beautiful destinations along the
flights by Wings Air (a sub-airline company both for daytime and nighttime trips. With way from Makassar to Toraja, stopping in
of Lion Air) and a 3-times-a-week flight a comfortable reclining seat and full AC, you several towns to enjoy local cuisine or to buy
by Garuda Indonesia (about 50 minutes). will be ready to explore Toraja the next day. crafts and souvenirs from the locals.
From Palopo, you only need to drive 2 hours Remember to prepare yourself before the trip
to arrive in Toraja. Although it is more because it will take about 8 hours.
expensive than the bus, flying saves a lot of
travel time.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 7


8 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA
View of Tinimbayo, Batutumonga

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 9


DISCOVER THE SACRED HIGHLANDS

CULTURAL
EXPLORATION
4 days 3 nights

Lo’ko’ Mata
10 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA
DAY 01 DAY 03
Makassar – Toraja Toraja: Pasar Bolu – Bori’
Arrive at Sultan Hasanuddin Kalimbuang – Palawa – Sa’dan
International Airport Makassar To’ Barana’
and then drive up to Toraja. After breakfast, make your way
Some stops can be made for to Pasar Bolu to see the biggest
photo taking during the trip buffalo market in the world and
and lunch will be served at a learn more about what buffaloes
local restaurant in Pare-Pare. mean to Torajans. After that,
Enjoy afternoon coffee or tea drive to Bori’ Kalimbuang, a
with a spectacular view of megalithic stone site symbolizing
Bambapuang Mountain before the great funeral ceremonies
you arrive in Toraja. Dinner and held in the past. Then continue
overnight at a hotel in Rantepao, to Palawa where you can see
Toraja Utara. the traditional Torajan house
(Tongkonan) that is one of
the nominees for UNESCO
DAY 02 World Heritage in Toraja. Then
Toraja: Papa’ Batu – Natsir’s continue to Sa’dan To’Barana’ to
Organic Farm – Tampang Allo visit the weaving village. There
– Kambira – Suaya you can watch women weaving
After breakfast, depart for local traditional Tenun textiles
Rembon to visit Papa’ Batu, the and perhaps even buy some.
700 year old traditional house Then, drive back to Rantepao
with a stone roof. Then continue and stay overnight at the hotel.
to Natsir’s Organic Farm,
where you can learn to make DAY 04
traditional Torajan chocolate Toraja – Palopo – Makassar
in bamboo from scratch. From After breakfast, drive to
there, drive to Sangalla’ to see Palopo for a flight to Makassar.
the baby grave tree in Kambira, Enjoy free time in Makassar
the cliff burial site used by the until departure to your next
Sangalla’ royal bloodline in destination.
Suaya, and the suspended coffins
and graves carved into the cave
walls in Tampang Allo. After
that, head back to Rantepao and
stay overnight at the hotel.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 11


PLACES TO GO

PAPA BATU NATSIR’S ORGANIC FARM KAMBIRA TAMPANG ALLO


Stone Roof Tongkonan Traditional Chocolate Making Baby Graves Cave Burial Site
The house was founded around At Natsir’s Organic Farm, you Trees in Kambira were used as After going down a fairly hidden
700 years ago and the roof is are able to tour Pak Natsir’s living graves for babies who died track towards the mountains
made of andesite and padas organic farm and then make before getting their first teeth. and crossing a narrow river,
stones. Papa’ Batu Tongkonan your own chocolate from This is because, according to the one enters the burial site with
is considered to be the last organic ingredients grown ancestral belief of Aluk Todolo, suspended coffins and graves
Tongkonan house with a roof of onsite. Learn to make delicious these babies are considered carved into the cliff face in
stone and it’s considered sacred Toraja chocolate in bamboo to still be pure and therefore Sangalla’ called Tampang Allo. A
by the people of the region. tubes from scratch and you can cannot be buried in the ground well-known romantic love story
You must knock three times on take it all home or eat it right or interred in a cliff. The trees is buried inside and beautiful
the doorframe with your head away. You can also try tropical used as graves (tarra’ and sipate) sceneries of rice fields, karst
before entering the house. fruits taken straight from the emit a white sap that represents a hills and other natural caves
vast garden. mother’s milk. surround this cultural site.

PASAR BOLU BORI’ KALIMBUANG PALAWA SA’DAN TO’BARANA’


Livestock Market Megalithic Stone Complex Traditional Tongkonan Weaving Village
Held every Tuesday and Bori’ is a megalithic area Adorned with ornaments of sun Every weave and profound
Saturday, Bolu Market (Pasar with numerous big stone circles and rooster carvings, stitching can be felt by everyone
Bolu) is a traditional livestock monuments or menhirs used Palawa’ Tongkonan complex is a touching the handmade marvels
market in Toraja. Dominated in traditional ceremonies. Each breathtaking sight. Fix your eyes of Torajan fabric. Displayed
by hundreds of buffaloes up for stone represents a feat of merit on historical remnants of the proudly in amalgamation with
sale, Bolu Market is the biggest performed in the past by a ancestral war of the 11th century, beautiful rice fields surrounding
buffalo market in the world. person of high status. Bori’ has with all the majestic buffalo the premise, ththe textiles are
You may find various types of been nominated as a UNESCO horns proclaiming regality with essentially pieces of souls of the
buffalo that are used by Torajans World Heritage site and from every inch. ancestral spirits that still exist
in several ceremonies, including the moment you step up to the until today.
even the most expensive buffalo stones, you will feel like you
if you’re lucky. have travelled back to an ancient
world.”

12 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 13
DISCOVER THE SACRED HIGHLANDS

TORAJA
ADVENTURE
5 days 4 nights

Cycling in Batutumonga

14 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


DAY 01 DAY 03
Makassar – Toraja White Water Rafting: Maulu
Arrive at Sultan Hasanuddin River
International Airport in After breakfast, a car will pick
Makassar and then drive up you up at the hotel and transport
to Toraja. Some stops can be you to the starting point. Then
made for photo taking during start to walk through the
the trip and lunch will be served breathtaking scenery of Dende
at a local restaurant at Pare- Village for 30 minutes (you
Pare. Enjoy afternoon coffee probably need to add an extra
or tea with spectacular view of 15 minutes for selfies). The boat
Bambapuang Mountain before will be waiting at the riverside to
you arrive in Toraja. Dinner and welcome you. Enjoy rafting for
overnight at hotel in Rantepao, around 3 hours and have lunch
Toraja. at the side of the river with a
beautiful waterfall in front of
DAY 02 you. Then, it’s back to the city and
Trekking Tour: Sa’pak Bayo- make your way to Batutumonga.
Bayo – Tumbang Datu Village Enjoy afternoon coffee or tea
– Ke’te’ Kesu’ with beautiful view from above
After breakfast, drive to the city. Stay overnight at one of
Sangalla’ and get dropped off at the homestays in Batutumonga.
Sapak Bayo-Bayo. Explore and
see the effects of acculturation DAY 04
between ancestral Torajan Cycling: Batutumonga –
beliefs and a modern religion. Lempo – Rantepao
Continue trekking to Tumbang Wake up early to catch the
Datu village, where the villagers sunrise with a magical view of
are still practicing rituals and white clouds. After breakfast,
beliefs called Aluk Ta’. See prepare yourself and pedal your
rows of ancient houses and bike down to Lempo. Enjoy
meet famous Torajan house the ride with amazing scenery
craftsmen. You can learn to of rice fields and Tongkonan.
paint the motifs on a traditional Continue to Rantepao and visit
house or plant rice. Afterwards, one of the Toraja coffee shops
trek down to Ke’te’ Kesu’, one of and roasteries in town. Don’t
the most popular destinations forget to grab some souvenirs
in Toraja. Nominated as one of for your family and friends back
the UNESCO World Heritage, home. Stay overnight at a hotel.
here you can see Tongkonan and
learn more about the function DAY 05
of each house. Then return to Toraja – Palopo – Makassar
Rantepao and stay overnight at After breakfast, drive to Palopo
a hotel. to catch a flight to Makassar.
Spend free time in Makassar
until departure for your next
destination.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 15


PLACES TO GO

SA’PAK BAYO-BAYO TUMBANG DATU VILLAGE KE’TE’ KESU’ COFFEE SHOP & ROASTERY
Religious Site Tourism Village Traditional Tongkonan Restaurant & Cafe
Claimed to be the first pilgrim Located near Sangalla’, Tumbang In this popular traditional village, Known as “Black Gold,” Toraja
place of the Nasareth Holy Datu is known for its rows of you will see the impressive rows coffee beans have become a
Family in the world, Sa’pak traditional houses and rice barns of great traditional houses and favorite choice for coffee lovers
Bayo-Bayo shows a mixture (lumbung) with bamboo roofs. rice barns, proudly showing around the world. Experience
of Torajan ancestral beliefs The villagers still largely follow off the buffalo horns of past the pleasure a cup Toraja coffee
and Catholicism. Designed to Aluk Todolo, the ancestral sacrifices. Nominated as a can bring at the local coffee
blend with the surrounding religion of Torajan, and in this UNESCO World Heritage site, shops in town roasted and
nature and local culture, this village you can find traditional Ke’te’ Kesu’ will capture your brewed especially for you.
magnificent area will make you ceremonies that you may not attention with every glance.
feel transported into a different find anywhere else in Toraja.
world.

BATUTUMONGA TREKKING RAFTING CYCLING


Nature and Village Life Outdoor Adventure Outdoor Adventure Outdoor Adventure
Located at the slope of Sesean Explore the wondrous Bathe in the rays of the tropical Hopping onto a bicycle and
Mountain, the highest mountain landscapes of Toraja on foot to sun while the rush and spray riding around Toraja allows
in Toraja, Batutumonga is one more intimately experience the of the rapids below keep you another means to both
of the places in Toraja to enjoy culture and meet the friendly you refreshed. Toraja offers get around and enjoy Toraja’s
the ”Land Above The Clouds,” people of this astounding region. memorable rafting experiences intriguing landscapes and
including the panorama of Our professional trekking and on two most famous rivers in cultural attractions. With
Rantepao City. Beautiful hiking tour guides will lead the region, Sa’dan and Mai’ting experienced guides and
homestays in Sesean Suloara’ you on an adventurous journey Rivers. From Grade II to Grade mechanics, cycle along downhill
Tourism Village are ready to through a string of calm villages, V levels of difficulty, Toraja and uphill trails, ranging from
welcome those who want to past karst cliffs and hillsides, offers 1-day and 2-day rafting dirt roads along rice fields to
experience living with locals and and up close and personal with packages for you to choose from. fun city tours of varying levels of
spending the night amongst the animals and insects of varying difficulty.
sounds of nature. sizes and colors.

16 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 17
DISCOVER THE SACRED HIGHLANDS

TORAJA
& BEYOND
8 days 7 nights

Tanjung Bira, Bulukumba


18 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA
DAY 01 DAY 03
Toraja Beyond: Makassar, Toraja: Sesean Suloara’
Maros, and Pare-Pare Village, Lo’ko’ Mata, Sanggar
Arrive at Sultan Hasanuddin Tari Pana’, Lempo
International Airport in After breakfast, we set out on a
Makassar. Afterwards, drive trip to Sesean Suloara’ Village in
approximately 30 minutes to Sesean. First, visit Lo’ko’ Mata,
Rammang-Rammang in the with its burial chambers cut
Maros Regency. Take a boat and out of a giant boulder. Then,
explore the magnificent views watch Toraja traditional dances
of the 3rd largest karst forest in at Sanggar Tari Pana’. Don’t
the world. Continue your trip hesitate to try one of the dances,
to the north with a lunch break like Pa’gellu or Manganda dance.
scheduled in Pare Pare. Get your After lunch, enjoy a soft trek
coffee or tea fix at Bambapuang through beautiful rice fields in
to see the erotic mountain. In Lempo. Make sure to enjoy the
the late afternoon, arrive in view of buffaloes, birds and the
Toraja. Have dinner and stay swaying of the rice stalks in the
overnight at a hotel. fields around you. Return to the
hotel before you enjoy dinner in
DAY 02 the city and stay overnight.
Toraja: Lemo, Londa, Ke’te’
Kesu’, and Karassik Hills DAY 04
After breakfast, spend a full Toraja: Land Above The
day tour exploring Toraja. First, Clouds, Burake, Coffee
visit Lemo, where the burial site Roastery, Shops in Rantepao
comprises of a commanding Wake up early to catch the
karst cliff that blends beautifully sunrise with beautiful, white
with the surrounding vegetation clouds in Lolai. Capture the
and rice fields. From there, moment in Tongkonan Lempe
drive to Londa to see an ancient and have a breakfast at Café
grave where the deceased are Lolai. Don’t forget to walk
entombed in a cave. After lunch, through the pine forest of
continue to Ke’te’ Kesu’ to see Tirotiku and stop by at To’tombi
and explore Toraja traditional to enjoy the bird’s eye view of
houses, called Tongkonan. Then the city. After lunch, head to
visit Karassik Hills to learn Burake, where you can see the
about Toraja Batik and make one highest Jesus statue in the world
to take home. Enjoy a wonderful from up close. Then, continue
dinner in one of the restaurants the journey to one of the coffee
in Rantepao. Stay overnight at a roasteries in town. Try the local
hotel. taste of Toraja Arabica coffee
and then explore the town and
its shops on foot. Stay overnight
at a hotel.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 19


DAY 05 collections of the former Bugis with these turtles. Have dinner salt farms. Enter Makassar in the
Beyond Toraja: Sengkang, royalty, with one of their most and stay overnight at a hotel. late afternoon and enjoy dinner
Watampone, and Bira famous kings being Arung Note: there is an additional fee at your favorite restaurant in
After breakfast, drive to After Pallakka. Arrive in Bira in the for lunch. town.
breakfast, drive to Makassar late afternoon. Have dinner and
through Sengkang, which is stay overnight at a hotel. DAY 07 DAY 08
located in the center of the Bugis Beyond Toraja: Bira, Tana Beyond Toraja: Fort
Kingdom. You can sail through DAY 06 Beru, Bantaeng, and Makassar Rotterdam, and Makassar
Tempe Lake to visit the floating Beyond Toraja: Bira After breakfast, drive to Airport
houses in the middle (note: Have breakfast at the hotel and Makassar for approximately 6 After breakfast, if time allows,
Tempe Lake might be shallow then enjoy free time. You can hours. Stop at Tana Beru to see go for a short city tour to visit
in dry season due to lack of enjoy water activities such as the famous Bugis-Makassar Fort Rotterdam, the old Dutch
rainfall. If the lake is too shallow, a banana boat, snorkelling, or Pinisi Ship builders. Lunch will fortress located right in front
you will not be able to cross the renting a boat to visit Liukang be served at a seafood restaurant of Losari Beach. Then, head
lake). Lunch can be served in a Island located across from the with a beautiful view to the sea. directly to Sultan Hasanuddin
house in the middle of the lake main island. Liukang Island is Continue to Bisappu waterfall International Airport to catch a
if ordered ahead. Continue to also known as the breeding place in the Bantaeng Regency and, flight to your next destination.
Watampone to visit the Museum for the green turtle and if you’re while passing through Jeneponto
of Andi Mappasisi to see the lucky, you can swim together Regency, keep an eye out for the

PLACES TO GO

LEMO LONDA KARASSIK HILLS SESEAN SULOARA’


Cliff Burial Site Cave & Cliff Burial Site Batik & Jewelry Making Tourism Village
A burial site comprised of a Londa is a sight to see, with its Learn how to make beautiful The cultural village of Sesean
commanding karst cliff that panorama of a rice field at the Toraja batik in the village of Suloara’ provides several
blends beautifully with the foot of a large cliff face dotted Karassik Hills, only 10 minutes activities including soft trekking
surrounding vegetation and rice with graves, coffins, and large from Rantepao. By using through bamboo forests, hiking
fields. This burial site is estimated hanging vines. Explore the traditional Indonesian methods up Mount Sesean, visiting Lo’ko’
to date back to the 16th century beauty of the natural cave walls and ingredients to outline Mata (burial site in a large
and you will see several Tau Tau with an interesting love story and color traditional Torajan boulder), miniature-Toraja-
(wooden statues) craftsmen who waiting to be told. motifs, you can make Torajan house making workshop,
have sold these figurines at this batik and bring one home with and enjoy a performance of
site for generations. you. Also try making beaded traditional Torajan dances or
Torajan necklaces, bracelets, and even jump in on a rehearsal at
earrings, perfect as souvenirs. Sanggar Tari Pana’ Suloara’.

20 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


LOLAI BURAKE RAMMANG-RAMMANG
Nature Site Religious & Nature Site Nature Site
Popularly known as the Land Above the The Burake Jesus Statue stands 40 meters Rammang-Rammang boasts unique and
Clouds. With views over an expanse of high (131 feet) and is claimed to be a statue otherworldly karst stones that jut out of
clouds like white cotton, you will get a of Jesus located at the highest elevation in the ground in varying symmetrical and
sensation of being above the clouds. While the world. From this large statue, you can asymmetrical shapes. Board one of the
waiting for the sunrise, white clouds gather overlook the city of Makale and enjoy the colourful boats to navigate through the
close to your feet, creating an irreplaceable breeze. Additionally, you can explore the mangrove forest to reach the karst outcrops.
experience. You also can taste Torajan coffee majestic karst clusters surrounding the This limestone forest is the third largest karst
while enjoying a panoramic view of the statue. forest in the world, the largest in Indonesia,
sunrise. and is only a 45-minute drive from Makassar.

LAKE TEMPE BIRA FORT ROTTERDAM


Nature Site Beach Historical Site
One of the biggest freshwater fishing areas Enjoy the white-sand beach and clear, light Built in 1545 by the ninth king of Gowa,
in the world, Lake Tempe is a tectonic lake blue water of Bira Beach, one of the best this fort (formerly called Fort Ujung
inhabited predominantly by Bugis people. beaches in Bulukumba, South Sulawesi. Pandang) has been a center for South
Reach the floating houses in the middle of Here you may find a lot of beautiful Sulawesi culture and a base for cultural
the lake using brightly colored traditional placse to stay, from homestay and colorful and educational tourism facilities since the
boats. Mark your calendar for August to guesthouses to luxurious resorts. Bira also 1980s. Inside this fort, you also can learn
enjoy the Maccera Tappareng Festival, a serves as the docking point for boats headed about the world’s longest epic manuscript,
ritual to purify the lake. towards Liukang and Kambing islands. the La Galigo manuscript.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 21


The prestigious Torajan buffalo and
its caretaker

22 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 23
ETHNIC TORAJANS

GRANDIOSE PARTING, are highly revered as a sacrificial and festivities going on as the the east of the main Tongkonan.
CEREMONY OF DEATH entity playing an irreplaceable Torajans always celebrate the Rambu Tuka’ celebrates life and
There is nowhere else on role in Torajan traditions. The parting in an extravagant feast. encompasses events such as the
earth where the words death more a Torajan individual is Then comes the burial. Contrary blessing of a new Tongkonan
and lavish can be paired in a respected, the more buffaloes to traditional norms, here, burial (Mangrara Banua) to weddings
sentence as in Toraja. In this to sacrifice. Some even should not be hidden from the (Rampanan Kapa’). Other
ethereally charming land, death bear staggering numbers of public eyes. Tombs are laid down Rambu Tuka’ ceremonies
has never borne sadness. On the hundreds, with a belief that with through a specific construct: the include Ma’bugi, a thanks giving
contrary, it is the ultimate goal of each buffaloes sacrificed, the higher the location, the nobler ritual held after harvest and
life, longing to be celebrated by departed will enter the afterlife it is for family members. In Sisemba’, a celebration of the
both the departed and the family (Puya) more easily. The meat each ceremony, children and harvest which includes a kicking
members left behind. Cheers of the sacrificed buffaloes are descendants pay respect to their fight. During these life-related
that echo through hilltops, then shared with the guests elderly departed. ceremonies, make sure to wear
a big feast for all guests, and attending as part of the revelry. bright colored clothing and
traditional dances redefine what It is a very extravagant and CELEBRATION OF LIFE avoid black, as black is worn to
human perceive as morbid into paramount celebration dating Like yin and yang, beside death ceremonies.
something beautiful. The death back to ancestral times, where a Rambu Solo’, the death
ceremonies of Toraja, named buffaloes carefully and lovingly ceremony, is Rambu Tuka’,
Rambu Solo’, is the apotheosis cared for give their meat back to the life ceremony in Toraja.
of Torajan festival because of the the community that cherished The word Rambu Tuka’ can
sheer magnitude and cultural them. These ceremonies are literally be translated as ‘smoke
significance that follows. events highly anticipated by ascending.’ These celebrations
locals and travelers alike, as they are always associated with life.
TRANSCENDENT show the true hues of Torajan There are certain rites that
SACRIFICE culture in its essence. Grand is accompany a Rambu Tuka’.
Rambu Solo’ is a ceremony of not even a word fitting enough For example, a Rambu Tuka’ is
the departed, where buffaloes to describe the excitement always held in the morning to

24 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


EVENTS & FESTIVALS
Rambu Solo’ (death ceremonies) and Rambu Tuka’ (life ceremonies) are family events that are held almost all year round, but mostly
between the months of June-August and December-January. The dates for the ceremony/traditional events are always based on consensus
among the family members. To get the exact date, please check www.visittoraja.com, follow our social media (@VisitToraja) or ask at the
local TIC/tourism offices in the destination.

world. The Toraja Coffee Festi- see a Ma’nene ceremony, which dicted to traditional textile and
MAY val is just like it sounds. Come may occur annually after the weaving, keep an eye out for the
TORAJA MOUNTAIN BIKE FESTIVAL join the festival and have a taste harvest or every three years, Toraja Weaving Festival.
If you love an adventure, make of the unique and delicious depending on the region. In the
sure to join the Toraja Moun- Torajan coffee. A visit to Tora- north, Ma’nene ceremonies oc-
tain Bike Festival. During this DECEMBER – JANUARY
ja is incomplete if you have not cur every three years and may
festival, you can explore Toraja’s attended a Rambu Solo’ or Ram- include the re-wrapping of de- LOVELY DECEMBER TORAJA, RAMBU
winding roads from atop a bike, bu Tuka’ ceremony. A Rambu ceased family members’ cloth SOLO’ CEREMONY, RAMBU TUKA’
hurtling past mountain villages Solo’ ceremony is a death cere- bindings. In the south, Ma’nene CEREMONY
and ending up in a bustling town mony, where family members may include offerings of food to When entering the last month
surrounded by other cycling en- and neighbors gather together the ancestors or the re-dressing of the year, you will be greeted
thusiasts. to celebrate and commemorate of Tau Tau. To help celebrate lo- with the biggest event in Toraja,
the deceased. A Rambu Tuka’ cal talent, come and enjoy films Lovely December. There are lots
JUNE – JULY ceremony celebrates life and created by Torajans concerning of events that you can enjoy for
TORAJA INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL encompasses events such as the Torajan life and culture at the almost the entire month, includ-
blessing of a new Tongkonan to Toraja Film Festival. ing an Art & Culture Festival,
(TIF), TORAJA COFFEE FESTIVAL,
weddings. Food & Culinary Festival, Mo-
RAMBU SOLO’ CEREMONY, RAMBU tor Trail Adventure, and much
TUKA’ CEREMONY OCTOBER more. Rambu Solo’ and Rambu
The Toraja International Festi- AUGUST – SEPTEMBER TORAJA MARATHON, TORAJA WEAV- Tuka’ ceremonies occur around
val aims to celebrate the Torajan MA’NENE CEREMONY, TORAJA FILM ING FESTIVAL Toraja from December to Janu-
art world as well as showcas- FESTIVAL (TFF) Join one of the biggest marathon ary.
ing dances, music, and visual Death is a very important part of events in Indonesia at the Toraja
art from countries around the Torajan life and culture. Come Marathon. Also, if you are ad-

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 25


LOCAL MARVELS

Toraja coffee

TORAJA COFFEE qualities, no wonder Toraja TORAJA HANDWOVEN aesthetically, forming a


Like any other valuable treasure, coffee has the “Black Gold” TEXTILES sublime unity imprinted onto
Torajan coffee has sparked up stamped on its back. Every weave and profound the valuable Tongkonan. The
feuds between noblemen in the The exceptional taste of Toraja stitching can be felt by anyone base pattern of Toraja is called
past. The “Coffee War” was an coffee has been exalted by Dutch touching the handmade Garonto’ Passura’ and diverges
epic battle that started when the noblemen as well as modern day marvels that are Torajan Tenun into four patterns. The sun, or
Buginese tried to conquer Toraja coffee enthusiasts. What makes textiles. Displayed proudly in Pa’ Barre Allo, symbolizes that
in the 1890s, solely triggered by the taste so invigorating are the amalgamation with beautiful life is bestowed by the divine.
the highly valued coffee trade. complex algorithms embedded rice fields surrounding The rooster, or Pa’ Manuk
A taste that [nourished] the within the atmosphere of Toraja the premise, the cloths are Londong, emphasizes Torajan
hearts of Torajan ancestors will as a geographical standpoint, essentially remnants of Torajan norms, laws, and leadership
definitely inspire everyone with creating an environment that ancestors that still exist to this concept. The buffalo motif,
every sip. Indulge yourself in produces the perfect Arabica today. or Pa’tedong, characterizes
the quintessential taste of Toraja coffee. prosperity in life, while the
Arabica coffee. Sip it while fixing These facts have helped Toraja ARTISTRY Pa’ Sussu pattern portrays
your sights on the breathtaking coffee gain Geographical The artistic side of Toraja democracy and wisdom as the
views of Torajan nature, existing Indication Protection (GI) for never ceases to amaze. The foundations of society. Together
at the perfect elevation for the its flavors so distinct that none magnificent carvings shall leave they give structure to the exalted
cultivation of this delicious other is equal to it. you fascinated, as the beauty concept of an ideal life according
coffee. With all its astounding and the philosophies collaborate to Torajans.

26 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


CULINARY HERITAGE

Chicken Pa’piong

PA’PIONG BALLO’
Pa’piong, as the highlight of A glass of Ballo’ can warm you
Torajan cuisine, is not only up. Ballo’ is a local beverage in
rated daily but also used in a form of palm wine usually
many ceremonies as gifts. This served in a bamboo tube. This
traditional dish usually uses home-made beverage contains
pork, chicken, fish, or buffalo a small amount of alcohol and
meat grilled inside a bamboo is made from freshly tapped
tube. The meat is cooked with palm tree. Usually served in
a mixture of spices such as ceremonial event where all the
grated coconut, scallions, lemon family members are gathering.
grass, pepper, garlic, and leaves You can order Ballo’ in local
of Miana. All the ingredients restaurant or try to find the
are then mixed and wrapped Ballo’ seller at the corner of
in Miana leaves, put into a Lapangan Bhakti at Rantepao.
bamboo rod, and then cooked Although this traditional drink
barbecue style on an open fire is natural with small amount
for an hour and a half, until the of alcohol, the strength may
surface of the bamboo blackens differ from one to another. It is
or is charred. A bamboo ranging thus advisable to take the right
to 10cm in length is enough amount and not to over Man with Ballo’
for 8-10 servings of Pa’piong. consume.

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 27


Miniature Tongkonan Making Class in
CBT Sesean Suloara’

28 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


COMMUNITY-BASED TOURISM (CBT)

Terraced Rice Field in Sesean Suloara’

Sesean Suloara’ is located in in Sanggar Tari Pana’ Suloara’ Enjoy Toraja by standing at its of Sesean Suloara’ are now
Toraja Utara about an hour while you’re there. Walking to highest peak in Mount Sesean. introducing the initiative of
drive from Rantepao upwards Pana’ and Lo’ko Mata, you’ll Visitors can hike up to reach Bring Back Your Waste as a
of Batutumonga. It is a CBT find the oldest gravesite in the top at about 2,100 meters way to keep the environment
village where you can enjoy Toraja Utara with many large above sea level. Trek with a clean. At the gate, you will need
while visiting Toraja. The rocks and picturesque rice local guide or by yourself. to pay entrance fee to Sesean
Manganda dancer dressing up terraces. Take your time to Hiking treks are available and Peak in return of a recycle bag
in classical Toraja costume will learn more about the culture take about 4-5 hours to reach for you to bring your waste
welcome you in enchanting of Torajan you can experience the stunning view of the Toraja back to the entrance gate.
moves. Watch also the other in this CBT. waiting to reward you. The A small action to support a
traditional art performances local community members sustainable tourism.

Caption : Here

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 29


The beauty of Ollon Valley

30 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 31
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

TRAVEL TIPS
VISA REQUIREMENT eating or after a trip to the kamar
The visa requirement depends kecil (lavatory).
on the length of your stay and on
your home country’s regulations. GET READY FOR SPICE
Indonesian visa provision is Indonesians love adding spice
prone to change. Before starting to their food. The word “Pedas“
your journey, it is important (spice) must be one of the
to check the respective first things you learn to say
requirements at the Indonesian in Indonesian as part of your
Embassy or Consulate Office in culinary adventures. Depending
your home country. on the region you are in, the
spice might already be added
MEANS OF TRADE to the food and in places like
In Toraja, only Indonesian Sulawesi it is placed onto the
Rupiah (IDR) is accepted for side of the plate. If you can’t
cash payments. In general, handle spice make sure to learn
transactions in Toraja are cash- to say “ Tidak pedas “before
based. Credit cards are not ordering your food.
commonly used for payment,
unless if you see Master or Visa FRIENDLY LOCALS
logo on the cashier of hotels or Once you stay outside of the
restaurants. There are banks and big cities in Indonesia, many
ATMs in Makale and Rantepao locals may have never seen a
where you can change your foreigner before, so get ready
foreign currency into Rupiah or for the stares. This is rarely
get your cash. intended in a malicious way,
once you make eye contact with
PACK LIGHT an Indonesian and smile they
Bring wash-and wear light will often return the grin. Calls
cotton clothes, a light rain jacket of “Hello sir or miss“ are normal
with a hood, and a good sweater. and many people are just trying
Tennis shoes are fine for basic to practice their English with
footwear, but if you plan to do you. Indonesians are so friendly
outdoor activities (trekking or and welcoming, if a little shy to
hiking) you will need sturdy start with, but if you need help
shoes or boots. Bring one of with anything on your travels
your favorite hats to keep the there will always be a crowd of
sun off during long walks. people offering to help. Make
Bring along some pre-packaged sure you always use your right
towelettes. These are handy for hand when greeting people,
Torajan girl
disinfecting your hands before paying and eating.

32 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

WHEN TO GO

Lempo Rice Field

THE PERFECT TIMING weather happens between April the day. This climate allows most TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE
The peak of the tourist season – June and September – October. hotels in Toraja to thrive without Toraja is in the UTC+8 time zone
in Toraja is June to August. the use of air conditioners. As (known in Indonesia as WITA
Prepare your reservations well WEATHER CONDITION the other areas in Indonesia, or Waktu Indonesia Tengah),
in advance if you plan to visit Since Toraja is located in Toraja too has only two seasons: the same as Western Australia,
during this time. To avoid high ground, pleasant climate wet and dry, with June to August Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong
the crowd, visiting off-season envelops it all-year around. Daily as the driest months. The highest Kong, Bali and one hour ahead
is always an option worth temperature varies from around rainfall normally happens from of Jakarta.
considering. The best time 16°C in the evening and early September to March.
in terms of tourist traffic and morning to around 28°C during

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 33


GETTING AROUND
HIGHLAND COMPASS Most can assist you to organize
DON’T WASTE YOUR VISIT, MAKE SURE YOU’RE In Toraja, you can always tell tours, car / motor bike rent and

LOST IN THE RIGHT PLACES


where north is by looking at provide information.
the roof of a Tongkonan. More
visitors prefer to travel on foot TOUR GUIDES
and it is really recommended. Official licensed guides and
This way, you’ll get many more freelance guides are available.
insights about life in Toraja that Other than those provided
seem to elude the eyes of those by an agency, guide rates are
on wheels. Don’t hesitate to ask usually negotiable. Be clear
any locals about directions to a beforehand about who covers
site or location of ceremonies. the guide’s personal expenses
Most of them are able to speak and the cost of his return to
basic English and they’re more home base. In most areas, tourist
than willing to help you. information services, hotels
or accommodation staff can
STAYING WITH recommend a guide for you.
LOCALS IN VILLAGE
Keep in mind that people in SHOPPING
many parts of Toraja may Toraja offers many beautiful
have limited experience with things for you to bring home:
foreigners and are still learning wooden sculptures called tau-
how to share their homes with tau, handwoven cloths, wooden
you. They do not routinely carvings with wonderful Torajan
maintain guest rooms. Things symbols, coffee and much more.
like soft beds, cold drink and Be extremely cautious however,
electricity are luxury items to when buying antiques or work
some. You may even encounter of arts on display especially
someone who barely speaks in tourist areas. Most are
anything other than Bahasa reproductions though they may
Indonesia or the local language. look incredibly similar. Price
Nonetheless, they will offer in Toraja is a flexible thing.
you the best they have and you Bargaining is advised.
should graciously return that
with respectful behaviour. AT THE FUNERAL
CEREMONY
TOURIST Visiting Toraja won’t be
INFORMATION SERVICE complete if you haven’t attended
The government Tourist and observed their unique
Information Office is at Jl. A. funeral ceremony. Wearing
Yani, Rantepao, open from black clothes is advisable when
07.00AM – 01.00PM from attending the ceremony, a shirt
Tampang Allo Monday to Saturday. There are covering the shoulders, and a
some private tourist information lower body garment covering
offices in Rantepao as well. until the knees.

34 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 35
BUSINESS LISTING
TOUR OPERATOR
Mega Permai Tour & Travel Tour Toraja Indo Sella
Contact: Mr. Anis Contact: Mrs. Maria Roswati Contact: Mr. Agustinus Lamba
Phone: +62 423 2810728 Phone: +62 852 9840 1595 Phone: +62 813 4250 5301
+62 852 5510 1101 Email: tourtoraja@gmail.com Email: admin@sellatours.com
Email: info@megapermai.com Website: www.tourtoraja.com Website: www.sellatours.com
Website: www.megapermai.com
Sulawesi Adventure Panorama Indah Tours
Toraja One Stop Adventure (TOSA) Contact: Mr. Joseph Contact: Yakobus Ambalembang
Contact: Mr. Hans Phone: +62 812 4144 4925 Phone: +62 813 4238 4455
Phone: +62 812 2128 0714 Email: info@sulawesiadventures.com Email: yacobs75@yahoo.com
Email: aurora@torajaonestopadventure. Website: www.sulawesiadventures.com Website: -
com
Website: www.torajaonestopadventure.com Toranggo Buya Cendana Indah Permai Tours
Contact: Ms. Linda Contact: Marthen Bida
Caraka Travelindo Phone: +62 813 4210 2690 Phone: +62 812 7481 6381
Contact: Mr. Siggi Neuhaus Email: raftingsulawesi@yahoo.co.id Email: info@cendanatour.com
Phone: +62 411 3618877 Website: - Website: www.cendanatour.com
Email: info@carakatravelindo.com
Website: www.carakatravelindo.com

COFFEE SHOP RESTAURANT


Warung Kopi Toraja / KAA Coffee The House Bistro & Galleria Cimsky Café Bambu Resto
Pongtiku Road (next to Misiliana Jl. Pongtiku No 5C Karassik, Jl. Ahmad Yani No. 70 Jl. Poros Sangalla’ (near Pasar Baru)
Hotel), Rantepao – Toraja Utara Rantepao, Toraja Utara Phone: +62 823 9350 5249 Lampio, Tana Toraja
Phone: +62 812 4104 8303 Phone: +62 813 8197 9762 Email: - Phone: +62 853 4251 9056
Email: kaacoffee@gmail.com Email: - Website: - Email: -
Facebook: warung.kopitoraja Instagram: @thehousebg Website: -
Panorama Restaurant
Kaana Toraya Coffee Contact: Mr Mule Katokkon Café
Contact: Mr. Eli Café Aras Jurusan Sangalla Road, Jl. Buisun No. 1
Pongtiku Road no.8, Contact: Mr. Aras Parura Makale – Tana Toraja Phone: +62 811 462 191
Rantepao – Toraja Utara A. Mappanyuki Road no. 49, Phone: +62 423 24642 Email: mmangajun@gmail.com
Phone: +62 813 5534 0175 Rantepao - Toraja Utara Email: - Facebook: Katokkon Café
Email: kaanatoraya@gmail. Phone: +62 823 2159 9498 Website: -
com Email: araspura@yahoo.com
Website: www.facebook.com/ Website: -
Sallebayu Restaurant
torajamountaincoffee Bonoran Ke’te’ Kesu’,
Toraja Utara
Jak Koffie Phone: +62 423 23469
Jl. Wolter Monginsidi No 31 Email: sallebayu0707@gmail.com
Phone: +62 812 9119 5525 Facebook: Sallebayu Bungalows & Restaurant
Email: araspura@yahoo.com
Instagram: @jakkoffie
Ayam Penyet Ria Khas Ibu Ruth
Jl. Ahmad Yani No. 81
Rantepao, Toraja Utara
Phone: +62 812 4182 8866
Email: -
Facebook: Restoran Ayam Penyet Ria Perintis

36 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


ACCOMMODATION
Toraja Misiliana Hotel Buntu Pantan Home Stay Pison Hotel
Pongtiku Road no, 27, Buntu Pantan Road no. 52, Pongtiku II Road no. 8,
Rantepao - Toraja Utara Makale - Tana Toraja Rantepao - Toraja Utara
Phone: +62 423 21212 Phone: +62 821 8742 2633 Phone: +62 423 21344
Email: info@torajamisiliana.com +62 852 5581 9292 Email: -
Website: www.torajamisiliana.com Email: buntupantan.toraja@gmail.com Website: -
Website: -
Sahid Toraja Hotel Pia’s Poppies
Getengan Road no. 1, Toraja Heritage Hotel Pongtiku Road, Merpati Alley, no. 4,
Mengkendek - Tana Toraja Contact name: Yohanis Rantepao - Toraja Utara
Phone: +62 423 22516 Jl. Ke’te’ Kesu’ PO.BOX 80, Phone: +62 423 21121
Email: sahidtoraja@yahoo.co.id Rantepao, Toraja Utara Email: poppiestoraja@yahoo.co.id
Website: - Phone: +62 423 21192 Website: -
Email: sales_marketing@toraja-heritage.
Batupapan Hotel com Mentirotiku Guesthouse & Restaurant
Pongtiku Road no. 130, Website: www.toraja-heritage.com Contact name: Alan
Makale - Tana Toraja Jl. Simpang Batutumonga Tika, Lempo,
Phone: +62 423 22259 Indra Toraja Hotel Sesean Suloara’, Batutumonga, Toraja Utara
Email: hotelbatupapan@gmail.com Landorundun Road no. 63, Phone: +62 813 4206 6620
Website: - Rantepao - Toraja Utara Email: -
Phone: +62 423 21163 Facebook: Mentirotiku Guest House
Pantan Toraja Hotel Email: indrahotel63@yahoo.com
Pongtiku Road no. 116-118, Website: - Toraja Torsina Hotel
Makale - Tana Toraja Contact name: Bertha
Phone: +62 423 22221 Luta Resort Toraja Jl. Pongtiku No. 119 Rantepao
+62 423 22227 Dr. Ratulangi Road no. 26, Phone: +62 423 21293
Email: pantantoraja@yahoo.com Rantepao - Toraja Utara Email: torsinahotel@gmai.com
Website: - Phone: +62 423 21060
Email: info@torajalutaresort.com
Puri Artha Hotel Website: www.torajalutaresort.com
Pongtiku Road no. 114
Phone: +62 423 22470
Email: -
Website: -

CBT
Sesean Suloara’ Community-Based Tourism
Contact: Mr. Simon
Phone: +62 852 42228774
Email: -
Website: -

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 37


TORAJA
DMO
Toraja DMO (Destination Management Organization);
is part of the program initiated by Republic of Indonesia
Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy in 2010. As
a tourism organization; Toraja DMO were established in
3rd May 2012, with main focuses to actively promote &
market the destination; to increase and further enhance
capacity building of its tourism industry & local people;
and to organize and further enhance its tourist attraction,
facilities and accessibility. Toraja DMO would bear its duty Tongkonan
as a source of information about Toraja as a destination.

38 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA


WORDS THAT GET YOU (ALMOST)
ANYWHERE IN TORAJA OR
INDONESIA
There are so many amazing places to visit in Indonesia, so do not limit yourself from experiencing
it. People in Indonesia, especially those who work in travel & tourism industry do speak English.
Try to learn some local (Indonesian) language as it will allow you to understand and appreciate
cultural references and nuances. By crossing these communication boundaries, you will gain a deeper
understanding of the local people and their culture.

ENGLISH INDONESIAN LANGUAE TORAJA LANGUAE


Good morning Selamat pagi …. Salama’ melambi’
Good night Selamat malam ….. Bongi melo
How are you? Apa kabar? Apa Kareba
Thank you Terima kasih Kurre sumanga’
Yes Ya Iyo
No Tidak Tae’
How much? Berapa Pira
Expensive Mahal Masuli’
Inexpensive / Cheap Tidak mahal / Murah Marawa
Chili Sambal Sambala
Food (Noun), Meals Makan Kande (Nouns), Kande (Nouns),
(Noun), Eat (Verb) Kumande (Verbs)
Where are you from? Anda dari mana? Umba musulei
Where are you going to? Anda mau pergi kemana? Umba lamuola
Can you? Bisakah anda? Bisa raka?
Is there? Do you have? Apakah ada? Den raka

Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA | 39


www.visittoraja.com Visit Toraja @VisitToraja @visittoraja

40 | Guide to the sacred highlands of TORAJA

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