The Leather

Biker Jacket
By Michaela Mohamed

22101945
Isabel Van Schalkwyk
Fashion Practice
(FPR01): FF1
Randburg Campus

Page 1 of 19
Table of Contents

1. Garment Profile and History………………………………………….3-4

1.1. History of Garment …………………………………………3
1.2. Profile of Garment…………………………………………..4
2. Garment Components………………………………………………...5-6
2.1. Front of Technical Drawing………………………………...5
2.2. Back of Technical Drawing...………………………………6
3. Fabrics and Findings….………………………………………………7-8
3.1. Fabrics……………………...………………………………..7
3.2. Findings……………………...………………………………8
4. Process of Manufacturing…………………………..........................9-10
4.1. The construction process….……………………………….9
4.2. The finishes applied……......……………………………...10
5. Impact of the 4th Industrial Revolution……………………………..11-12
6. References……………………………………………………………13-18
7. Peer Review Forum…………………………………………………19

Page 2 of 19
 1.) The Garment Profile and History:
History of Garment
The distinguished leather biker jacket was invented by brothers; Jack and Irving Schott
under their company Schott NYC in 1928 America (Courcey, 2022). The invention was
called the Perfecto which is a suitable name considering the previous models were
fastened by buttons and this version had finally encompassed a fully functional zip
making this jacket convenient and thus giving it more mobility than before (Courcey,
2022). The garment was sold naturally at the Harley Davidson store for $5.50 (Lester,
2009). The Perfecto however did not rise to infamy until 1953 when The Wild One
starring an old Hollywood icon Marlon Brando came to the big screen. In the film
Brando was a gang leader which only made the rebellious nature of the jacket more
prominent (Courcey, 2022), even causing American schools to ban the jacket on
campus country-wide (Lester, 2009). In 1955 heartthrob James Dean began wearing
the jacket religiously adding more nameable rebels to the rebellious reputation the
jacket already held (Lester, 2009). The ‘60s gave the jacket a political image, having
many wearing the jacket including The
Beetles to highlight their expression of counter
culturalism (Courcey, 2022). In the ‘70s Rock
‘n Roll dominated the jacket while the ‘80s
punk movement was preparing to swiftly
adapt it and thus made it a badge of anti-
establishment. The jacket at this time was
worn oversized with spiked trims (Courcey,
2022). The garment from the 1990s to now
has had no political or social impact like it
used to, it is now since been a closet staple
and a classic must-have. The jacket can make
you look like a hardcore streetwear insurgent
Figure 1: Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953) to a lavish, tailored, style icon. Many
celebrities wear them still and everyone now has their own finessed style with the
apparel taking the jacket miles away from its origins which could be an arguably great
outcome.

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The Profile of the Garment
The fit of a leather biker jacket can vary from fit (tight) to flare (loose) depending on
the era you are in or the aesthetic you are trying to achieve, for example if you want
the 1980s punk look you would lean more towards an oversized jacket. However, there
may be various opinions there is a common ground for the basic form of the garment,
which is it should be like a “second skin” (Makhluf, 2019). There should be some wiggle
room for an under top such as a jersey or jumper to wear underneath, the fit is not too
tight so it will be able to zip with ease but also not too loose as leather stretches
(Harold, Not Dated). The sleeves should end at the top of the wrist where the wrist
starts to bend as it is not too long nor too short (Makhluf, 2019). The longer the jacket,
the shorter you would appear thus making the preferred length of the jacket up to one’s
belt (Harold, Not Dated).

When it comes to the shape of the leather biker jacket it is a square,

very boxy appearance. Depending on the design it can be either a
square/rectangle or a trapeze, when it comes to the trapeze shape it
may be more likely for women as women want their waists to be
sinched as well as emphasised where triangular and trapeze shapes
give a feminine curve and rectangular shapes give a masculine lined
shape (Cousins, 2017), however it is not always common in leather
Figure 2: Allaric Alley Leather Jacket
jackets for women to want to appear hyper-feminine as the main
appeal is to appear boxy and masculine. On the flip side however when a leather biker
jacket is closed it appears like a trapeze sometimes depending on the original design.

In fashion a silhouette usually refers to the entire body and mainly for full-body
garments thus giving the commonly known types of silhouettes; A-Line, Mermaid, Ball
Gown, Empire-waist, Sheath, and Shift (The MasterClass staff, 2020). However
according to Derek Guy there are four silhouette types for jackets, and they are as
follows: classic, coherent skinny, coherent full, and a mix of slim and full (Guy, 2018).
The leather biker jacket would fall under the classical silhouette, it is of moderate sizing
and proportions and while it is not a slim fit it is tailored, which are characteristics of
the classic silhouette (Guy, 2018). This silhouette is comfortable, while being flattering
(Guy, 2018), which a leather biker jacket follows. Elements such as the collar would
elevates the silhouette as well, making it boxy.

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 2.) The Garment Components:

Garment Components: Technical Drawing of The Front of the

Jacket

Lining

Collar with twin

needle stitching

Snap metal Lapels with twin

studs needle stitching

Main
Asymmetrical
Zipper

Inseam Pocket
with zip

Waist Belt
and belt
loops

Figure 3: Anna Belova: Technical Drawing of Biker Jacket (Front) [2018]

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 Garment Components: Technical Drawing of The Back of the
Jacket

Yoke

Armhole

Twin needle
stitch Seam for
sleeve

Back Body
with 3 panels
Sleeve
with two
panels

Figure 4: Anna Belova: Technical Drawing of Biker Jacket (Back) [2018]

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 3.) Fabrics and Findings:
The Fabric
Leather was and is used for biker jackets because leather can be quite heavy-duty
and be used to protect one from injuries, also leather is wind-resistant, has heat
insulation and as well as having water absorption and desorption making it ideal for
Motorcyclists (MAHI, 2022). However, leather does not come with only benefits; once
it is damaged it is near impossible to repair and leather on its own is rather costly to
start with (Leather Sight, 2020). Leather is made from animal hides, if it needs to be
lightweight the animals will be sheep, pigs, and goats but if it needs to be heavyweight
it will mainly be cow hides or possibly buffalo (MAHI, 2022). Leather is obviously the
main used fabric for leather biker jackets, but one also has to consider the lining
material as well. Cotton can be used as it is breathable and soft for the skin being ideal
for Summer/Spring, cotton is also commonly used for most jacket linings (Gath, 2021).
Polyester is also sought after for lining however it is not as breathable as cotton making
it a winter ideal lining.
Figure 5: Digital Fabric Swatch of Leather

Figure 7: Digital Fabric Swatch of Cotton

Figure 6: Digital Fabric Swatch of Polyester

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The Findings
There are several findings and trims that make up the leather biker jacket. The major
trims and findings, which have been used since the Perfecto, that also use the leather
textile of the garment would be the pockets, waistbelt, and snap epaulettes (Rago
Brothers, 2020), but a symbol or logo can be also used. The pockets are the trims of
the jacket that would be most known and most utilized however sometimes pockets
can be completely decorative (Burman, 2022), pockets are meant to hold something,
it’s like a purse of some sort. The purpose of
the waistbelt was to make the jacket extra fitted
and “snug” to protect the motorbike riders from
the wind (Higson, 2021), now the common use
of the belt is to look sinched in at the waist.
Epaulettes used to be a symbol of rank,
however for the leather jacket it is just
decoration (Crippe, 2006). If one is a part of a
motorbike gang, the jacket will have a gang
emblem or logo on the back. It would be Figure 8: Rago Brothers: Leather Biker Jacket
painted, or heat printed or even embossed onto the leather.

The Functional and Decorative Details

Leather is a very pleasing fabric to look at such as its aesthetic and surface pattern.
It’s colour, texture and even scent are decorative details. However, leather is more
than a pretty face, it is water resistant, insulates heat, soft in touch, and malleable.
Leather can withhold moisture without feeling wet or damp (Leather Naturally, Not
Dated). When it comes to the softness of leather it is usually associated with the
thickness of the leather. It is said that the thinner the leather, the softer it will be.
However, there are other factors that make leather soft, more specifically the way it
was tanned (Leather Naturally, Not Dated). Leather has the ability to be moulded into
any shape, it can be stiff and firm, or it can be made into flexible material, and it will
hold its new shape it was moulded into (Liberty Leather Goods, 2022).

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 4.) Process of Manufacturing:

The construction processes

The construction process has many parts however it can be said that some
components take the spotlight more than others. The main components would be 1.)
Tanning and Dyeing, 2.) Pattern Layout, 3.) Hand Cutting, and 4.) Sewing (Hencroft,
2018)

1. Tanning and Dyeing - The prepared hides of the animal

will be placed in the tanning machine called the “tanning
drum” where it is mixed with extracts and chemicals that
give the leather longevity (Hencroft, 2018). The hide is
then coated in oils, waxes and fats and then dyed. This
makes the hide feel rich and solid (Hencroft, 2018). Figure 9: Hencroft: Tanning and Dyeing

2. Pattern Layout – The cutter inspects the hides for

variance in thickness and the grain as well as markings
(Hencroft, 2018). The patterns are then laid out noting the
uniqueness of the hide and using the most efficient layout
as leather is animal skin which is not a manmade shape
such as a square and is rather abstract. (Hencroft, 2018). Figure 10: Hencroft: Pattern Layout

3. Hand cutting – The cutter chooses the “perfect” hide and

cuts the patterns into the leather (Hencroft, 2018). The
cutters are intuitive and skilled, and would have trained for
2 years to develop how to feel for the correct hide (Schott,
2015) Figure 11: Hencroft: Hand cutting

4. Sewing – The sewing process is done on machines

however human touch is still required, sewing the
pockets, body, and other components, once the outside
shell is sewn the lining is then sewn to it, the garment is
then pulled from the inside out to give the lines a clean
look. (Hencroft, 2018).
Figure 12: Hencroft: Sewing

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The Finishes Applied

Leather as a textile which has a plethora of finishes that can be applied, but only a
select few can be applied to the leather biker jacket. 1.) Sanding – A machine abrades
the fabric as it is passed through it, over numerous rollers covered with emery paper
which rubs and then breaks the fibres to produce a soft, smooth effect. Sanding
removes the sheen and softens the hide (Sayed, 2015). 2.) Embossing - Embossed
leather is created by raising patterns on the finished hide. The leather is stamped,
pressed, rolled, moulded, or formed. The embossed product can be designs, lettering,
or any visual enhancement to the leather’s surface (Liberty Leather Goods, 2022). 3.)
Milling – This is the process used to make the leather softer, after the milling process
it will be soft, uniform and no dust will be present, dry milling is where the hides are
delt without humidity control, drum milling is the evolved version of dry milling where
one can control the humidity. There is also wet milling which uses wet hides and cold
milling which performs under low temperatures (Erretre, 2022). 4.) Bicast - is in
essence an alternative method of finishing a split leather. In most hides, the collagen
fibres in the corium are much bigger than they are in the grain. Thus, when the leather
has been split, the split surface is considerably very rough. If a typical finish is sprayed
to this rough surface, it will still appear very rough, which is why a film is applied with
adhesive (Leather International, 2006).

Figure 13: Different Textured and finished leathers.

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 5.) Impact of the 4th Industrial Revolution:

Times are changing and changing fast, and if there is any industry that needs to keep
up it is the fashion industry. Fashion has always been ever-changing however fast-
fashion and more recently the global pandemic made this more exponentially so,
trends are less so long-term and can quickly become fads. Industrial Revolutions as a
unit have always changed the fashion game, with the 1st came the power loom, with
the 2nd came mass production and with the 3rd came the digitalisation of the industry
(Shin, 2021). The 4IR (4th Industrial Revolution), like its predecessors, affects the
fashion industry, it is the new age of textiles, manufacturing and even marketing and
innovation (Abnett, 2016). Covid-19 has further pushed the 4IR making online
shopping more so the only option as people were not allowed instore for a long period
of time.

With foreign technology and experimental textiles, one has to wonder about the
serviceability of our garments. Such as the leather biker jacket which is an Americana
classic (Lester, 2009), it is produced very traditionally, how will such a revolution affect
the comfort, durability, care, or function of the garment.

When it comes to the 4IR leather could be animal hides that are lab grown or an
innovative substitute may occur (Abnett, 2016). Comfort is paired with safety, we have
to check for things like the hand, and allergens it may hold, for durability we look at
how long the textile will be used; if it is strong and resists abrasion and when caring
for a garment one must know how to clean it and dry it (Baugh, 2018). For function it
is straightforward; does the garment do what it needs to do.

Lab grown leather is a scientific process that uses fungi and collagen to create a
leather-like material that feels no different to genuine leather (Chan, 2020). Collagen
is responsible for giving the textile its strength and stretch (Tondo, 2021), thus we may
conclude that bio-fabricated leather has the same function, comfort and safety as
“organic” leather as well as the same care for the product, however durability may
differ for better or worse, but we will know within time.

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Leather substitutes also known as Vegan Leather have grown in range thanks to the
4IR, one can make “leather” from fruits & fungi: oranges, mushrooms, and pineapple,
as well as trees & plants: like banana trees, tree bark, cacti and even paper (Alive,
2021). All these substitutes have their own pros; however, they are all obviously
sustainable, some are an even better fit than leather itself, being more breathable and
waterproof, these alternatives care don’t heavily differ to leather, and just a wet cloth
with hand wash or a cold washing machine session is advised (Alive, 2021). The hand
will differ slightly depending on the material in question, but it is all safe and
comfortable to use. The durability for some is longer than leather and sometimes
functions just as needed or better (Alive, 2021).

Regardless of which material one use for one’s jacket it will still be a “leather” biker
jacket, it is up to one to decide whether to accept the 4IR or stay classic, however the
one is more sustainable and futuristic than the other. So, the big question would be
does one give into the 4IR or stay old school?

Page 12 of 19
References

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Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/what-does-the-
fourth-industrial-revolution-mean-for-fashion/fashions-fourth-industrial-revolution-2
[Accessed 10 April 2022].

Alive, 2021. Alive. [Online]

Available at: https://www.alive.boutique/pages/industry-changing-vegan-leather-alternatives
[Accessed 10 April 2022].

Baugh, G., 2018. The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory. 2nd ed. London: Paul Carslake.

Burman, B., 2022. Love To Know. [Online]

Available at: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-closures-embellishments/pockets
[Accessed 7 April 2022].

Chan, E., 2020. Vogue. [Online]

Available at: https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/is-lab-grown-leather-the-future-for-the-
fashion-industry
[Accessed 10 April 2022].

Courcey, T., 2022. Ape To Gentleman. [Online]

Available at: https://www.apetogentleman.com/motorcycle-jacket-history/
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Cousins, C., 2017. Design Modo. [Online]

Available at: https://designmodo.com/masculine-feminine-designs/
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Crippe, 2006. Scholt. [Online]

Available at: https://www.schottnyc.com/forum/posts/epaulets.htm
[Accessed 7 April 2022].

Erretre, 2022. Erretre. [Online]

Available at: https://www.erretre.com/post/milling-drums-leather-finishing-technology-
innovation?lang=en
[Accessed 9 April 2022].

Gath, 2021. The Jacket Maker. [Online]

Available at: https://blog.thejacketmaker.com/leather-jacket-
lining/#:~:text=Much%20like%20cotton%2C%20poly%2Dcotton,against%20the%20skin%20as%20cot
ton.
[Accessed 29 March 2022].

Guy, D., 2018. Put This On. [Online]

Available at: https://putthison.com/how-to-understand-silhouettes-pt-two/
[Accessed 29 March 2022].

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Harold, T., Not Dated. Thread. [Online]
Available at: https://www.thread.com/gb/tips/men/coats-jackets/how-leather-jacket-should-
fit/#:~:text=Much%20like%20any%20other%20jacket,your%20hand%2Dme%2Ddowns.&text=Leathe
r%20jackets%20should%20end%20at%20your%20belt%2C%20no%20lower.
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Hencroft, 2018. Hencroft. [Online]

Available at: https://www.hencroft.com/pages/jacket-construction
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Higson, A., 2021. Magic of Clothes. [Online]

Available at: https://www.magicofclothes.com/all-about-your-leather-
jacket/#:~:text=Without%20a%20belt%2C%20it%20was,make%20the%20rider%20feel%20chilly.
[Accessed 7 April 2022].

Leather International, 2006. Leather International. [Online]

Available at: https://www.leathermag.com/features/featurebicast-what-is-it-and-how-does-it-
perform/#:~:text=Bicast%20(or%20Bycast%2C%20Bykast%2C,surface%20will%20be%20very%20rou
gh%20.
[Accessed 9 April 2022].

Leather Naturally, Not Dated. Leather Naturally. [Online]

Available at: https://www.leathernaturally.org/Education/Fact-Sheets/Benefits/Why-use-leather-
The-characteristic-and-properties
[Accessed 20 April 2022].

Leather Sight, 2020. Leather Sight. [Online]

Available at: https://leathersight.com/advantages-and-disadvantages-of-leather/
[Accessed 20 April 2022].

Lester, T. L., 2009. Glamour. [Online]

Available at: https://www.glamour.com/story/a-brief-chic-history-of-the-mo
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Liberty Leather Goods, 2022. Liberty Leather Goods. [Online]

Available at: https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/types-of-leather/
[Accessed 9 April 2022].

MAHI, 2022. MAHI. [Online]

Available at: https://mahileather.com/blogs/news/all-you-need-to-know-about-leather-
jackets#:~:text=Leather%20jackets%20are%20made%20from,as%20kangaroo%20are%20also%20us
ed.
[Accessed 29 March 2022].

Makhluf, S., 2019. Indepence Brothers. [Online]

Available at: https://independencebrothers.com/blogs/leather-jackets/fit
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Rago Brothers, 2020. Rago Brothers. [Online]

Available at: https://www.ragobrothers.com/leather-coat-jacket-repair/
[Accessed 7 April 2022].

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Sayed, A., 2015. Textile Apex. [Online]
Available at: https://textileapex.blogspot.com/2015/02/different-types-of-fabric-finishes.html
[Accessed 9 April 2022].

Schott, 2015. How a Schott Motorcycle Jacket is made [Interview] (14 December 2015).

Shin, J. &., 2021. Springer Open. [Online]

Available at: https://fashionandtextiles.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40691-021-00259-4
[Accessed 10 April 2022].

STADIO School of Fashion, 2022. FPR01 FF1 Assessment Rubric, Johannesburg: STADIO.

StudioSuits, 2021. Studio Suits. [Online]

Available at: https://www.studiosuits.com/blog/what-are-lapels-on-a-suit-
jacket/#:~:text=Purpose%20of%20Lapels&text=Lapels%20don't%20serve%20any,jackets%20that%2
0lifts%20their%20aesthetics.
[Accessed 7 April 2022].

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[Accessed 29 March 2022].

Tondo, M., 2021. Lampoon. [Online]

Available at: https://www.lampoonmagazine.com/article/2021/11/19/lab-grown-leather-modern-
meadow-vitralabs/
[Accessed 10 April 2022].

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References for Images:

Photograph of Leather Jacket [Online] https://favim.com/image/6784397/[Accessed 27

March 2022].

Photograph of Leather Jacket [Online]:

https://j4shop.tk/ProductDetail.aspx?iid=23663366&pr=58.88
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Figure 1: Photograph of Marlon Brando, The Wild One, 1953[Online] :

https://www.stuff.co.nz/entertainment/film/3235783/Brandos-affair-with-15-year-old
[Accessed 27 March 2022].

Figure 2: Men’s Allaric Alley[Online]:

https://5.imimg.com/data5/SELLER/Default/2021/2/TP/IQ/VA/10823476/men-leather-jacket-
500x500.jpg
[Accessed 28 March 2022].

Figure 3 and 4: Anna Belova, Technical Drawing of Leather Jacket, 2018[Online]:

https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/biker-jacket-fashion-sketch-vector-illustration-women-s-
leather-flat-technical-drawing-216033692.jpg
[Accessed 29 March 2022].

Page 16 of 19
Figure 5: Digital swatch of Leather, Leather Hide Store[Online]:
https://5.imimg.com/data5/AZ/HS/LB/SELLER-83850965/safety-shoe-leather-500x500.jpg
[Accessed 31 March 2022].

Figure 6 : Digital swatch of cotton[Online]:

https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/grey-cotton-fabric-texture-background-seamless-
pattern-of-natural-textile-gm1193255168-339337426
[Accessed 31 March 2022].

Figure 7: Digital swatch of polyester[Online]:

https://www.kelvincorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/kelvin-polyester.png
[Accessed 31 March 2022].

Figure 8: Rago Brothers, Technical drawing, 2018[Online]:

https://www.ragobrothers.com/leather-coat-jacket-repair/
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Figure 9: Tanning and Dying, Hencroft, 2018[Online]:

https://www.hencroft.com/pages/jacket-construction
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Figure 10: Pattern Layout, Hencroft, 2018[Online]: https://www.hencroft.com/pages/jacket-

construction
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Page 17 of 19
Figure 11: Hand Cutting, Hencroft, 2018[Online]: https://www.hencroft.com/pages/jacket-
construction
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Figure 12: Sewing, Hencroft, 2018[Online]: https://www.hencroft.com/pages/jacket-

construction
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Figure 13: Several types of leather, Liberty Leathers[Online]:

https://www.libertyleathergoods.com/types-of-leather/
[Accessed 8 April 2022].

Page 18 of 19
Peer Review Forum
Reviewer: Gomolemo Ratsheko

Reviewee: Michaela Mohamed

Your Name: (student viewing the project) Gomolemo Ratsheko (STADIO School of Fashion, 2022)

Name of Student being reviewed: Michaela Mohamed (STADIO School of Fashion, 2022)

0-1 1,5 - 2 2,5 – 3,5 4–5

Quality & The student has not The student has The student has fully The student has fully
completed/ or has attempted to complete completed all aspects completed all aspects
/5
Quantity of Work partially completed the assessment, their of the assessment, and of the assessment, and
(STADIO School of very little of the work is somewhat of their work is of a their work is of a very
Fashion, 2022) assessment. The quality good quality, but more reasonable standard. high standard. (STADIO
of their work is below effort could have been (STADIO School of School of Fashion,
standard. (STADIO put in. (STADIO School Fashion, 2022) 2022) 5
School of Fashion, of Fashion, 2022)
2022)

Technical The student has The student has The student has The student has
included some of the included some of the included most of the included all the
/5
Requirements & technical requirements, technical requirements technical requirements technical requirements.
Professionalism however, information is in their project. Their throughout the project. Their presentation is
(STADIO School of missing or unclear. assessment is Their presentation is neat, clear and easy to
Fashion, 2022) There is no creativity somewhat legible and legible, neat and clear. understand. Creativity
shown and areas are neat. Not all areas are The student has and presentation skills 5
messy and unorganized. clear and not much demonstrated are visible throughout
The student has not creativity has gone into professionalism their work. The student
demonstrated the process. The throughout most of has demonstrated
professionalism student has their work. It is clear professionalism
throughout their work demonstrated some that they have throughout their work.
They have made a poor professionalism knowledge of the It is clear that they have
impression. (STADIO throughout their work. content and have made a good understanding
School of Fashion, They have made an a somewhat good of the content and have
2022) adequate impression. impression. (STADIO made a good
(STADIO School of School of Fashion, impression. (STADIO
Fashion, 2022) 2022) School of Fashion,
2022)

TOTAL 10/10

Comments: (suggested improvements, changes, concerns, etc.) (STADIO School of Fashion, 2022)

An outstanding assignment all together with minimal flaws. Excellent work. I would only suggest that I am not sure the
image in-text citation is the correct format.

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