instructables

RF Remote Control Car

by leeselectronic

Created By: Kevin Shu

Overview

The RC car is a great project for all ages and it doesn’t require any programming. It uses simple integrated circuits
(IC) and it is controlled wirelessly by a remote controller. The remote controller sends out a encoded radio-
frequency (RF) signal to the RC car. The RC car decodes the signal and moves accordingly. The car moves like a
tank: to turn left, the right motor is turned on and pivots on the left wheel, and vice versa.

Parts and Tools

Electronic

RF Remote Control Car: Page 1

 1x Voltage Regulator 7805 (Lee’s ID: 7115)
2x Printed Circuit Board 171 (Lee's ID: 1058)
1x 1N4001 Diode (Lee’s ID: 796)
1x Heat Sink, TO-220 (Lee’s ID: 10462)
1x HT12E Encoder (Lee's ID: 16295)
1x HT12D Decoder (Lee's ID: 16296)
1x RF Link Transmitter 434MHz (Lee’s ID: 11089)
1x RF Link Receiver 434MHz (Lee’s ID: 11090)
1x 1/4W 1K Resistor (Lee's ID: 91901)
1x 1/4W 3.3K Resistor (Lee’s ID: 91452)
1x 1/4W 47K Resistor (Lee’s ID: 91523)
1x 1/4W 1MEG Resistor (Lee’s ID: 94730)
1x L293D Half-Bridge Driver (Lee’s ID: 71198)
2x Electrolytic Cap 16V 100uF (Lee’s ID: 872)
2x 5mm Green LED (Lee’s ID: 550)
2x DPDT Rocker switch (Lee’s ID: 32842)
1x 9V Battery Clip (Lee’s ID: 6538)
1x 9V Battery (Lee’s ID: 83741)
1x Plastic Enclosure (Lee’s ID: 10361)
1x Robot 3-wheel Chassis kit (Lee’s ID: 100259)
1x SPST Rocker Switch (Lee’s ID: 31061)
1x Hook Up Wires AWG22 Solid (Lee’s ID: 22491)
4x Insulated Quick Connector Red Female (Lee’s ID: 6023)
4x Quick Connector Red Male (Lee’s ID: 6216)

Tools

1x Wire Stripper (Lee’s ID: 103252)

1x Nose Plier (Lee’s ID: 10310)
1x Diagonal Cutter (Lee’s ID: 10383)
1x Soldering Station (Lee’s ID: 11000)
1x Solder (Lee’s ID: 10691)
1x Desoldering Pump (Lee’s ID: 10103)
1x Box Cutter or Utility Knife
1x Lighter

RF Remote Control Car: Page 2

Step 1: Building the Chassis

To build the chassis, we will use the chassis kit. The kit includes the following items:

1x Plastic base chassis

1x 4-AA cell battery holder
2x DC gear motor 3-6V
2x Rubber tires (65mm Diameter)
1x Caster wheel
2x 20-line encoder wheels for rpm/speed measurement • 1x SPST rocker switch
4x Plastic fasteners
4x M3x30 screws
8x M3x6 screws
8x M3 nuts
4x M3x12 spacers
1x Installation sheet

Using the kit, we will assemble the chassis.

1. Tear off the yellow protection wrap of the chassis and fasteners.
2. Insert the fastener into the four slits and the rocker switch according to the picture above.
3. Attach the encoder wheel to the side of the motor. The encoder wheels face toward the inside of the
car.
4. Mount the two motors to the fastener using the M3x30 screws and M3 nuts. Make sure that the
yellow end of the motor is facing the front.
5. Mount the battery holder on the other side of the motor using the M3x6 screws and M3 nuts. This
will be the top side of the car.
6. Mount the caster wheel on the bottom side of the car using the M3x12 spacers and M3x6 screws.

RF Remote Control Car: Page 3

Step 2: Building the Receiver

Printed Circuit Board: Parts ID Table

U1: HT12D decoder (Lee's ID: 16296)

Printed Circuit Board 171 (Lee's ID: 1058)
U2: L293D half-bridge driver (Lee’s ID: 71198)
U3: RF link receiver (Lee’s ID: 11090)
D1: 1N4001 diode (Lee's ID: 796)
R1: 50k resistor (Running 47k and 3.3k resistor in series to get 50k)
R2: 1K resistor (Lee's ID: 91901)
LED1: 5mm green LED (Lee's ID: 550)
S1: SPST rocker switch (Lee's ID: 31061)

Assembling the Printed Circuit Board

1. Insert the components (U1, U2, U3, D1, R1, R2, and 4-AA cell battery holder) into their destination
according to their parts ID as listed above.
2. Solder each component and desolder if necessary. Make sure the polarity of the diodes, LED,
battery holder, and the orientation of the IC chips are in the correct position. A common polarity
marker is a half-moon shape at one end of the chip. Another is a small dot by pin 1, or sometimes a
small triangle or tab instead. From that polarity mark, move counterclockwise around the chip, and
number the pins starting at 1 as illustrated below.
3. Trim the excess leads of the components with the diagonal cutter.
4. Insert the SPST switch into the enclosure.
5. Wire and solder the SPST switch to S1 on the printed circuit board accordingly. Leave approx 3 cm
length of wire. This will provide ON/OFF to the board.
6. Insert the 5mm green LED into the enclosure.
7. Wire and solder the 5mm green LED to LED1 on the printed circuit board accordingly. Leave approx
3 cm length of wire. The LED will light up when the signal from the transmitter to the receiver is
received.
8. With a 8 cm long wire as the antenna, solder it to the ANT on the printed circuit board. Curl it up into
a spiral with a pen.

RF Remote Control Car: Page 4

 4

2 3

5 8

6 7

1. 1/4W 1k ohm resistor

2. 1/4W 3.3k ohm resistor
3. 1/4W 47k ohm resistor
4. RF Link Receiver
5. HT12D decoder
6. SPST switch
7. 1N4001 Diode
8. L293D half-bridge driver

Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FP5/7LWP/J6MG8AJ5/FP57LWPJ6MG8AJ5.pdf
…

Step 3: Building the Enclosure for the Transmitter

1. Use the cutout template and cut the two DPDT rocker switches and SPST switch. Note: The
cutouts are a 1 to 1 ratio so when printing, make sure to not stretch the picture in any way.
2. Align the outlines on the plastic enclosure.
3. Using a lighter, heat the tip of the utility knife’s blade. Caution: Children should ask their parents for
help before doing the next step.
4. While in a well-ventilated room, cut out the switches with the knife while keeping the blade hot.
Reheat as necessary. Caution: Do not inhale the black smoke from the burned plastic.
5. Fit the switches into the enclosure and make the necessary adjustments. Use 5mm drill bit and drill
a hole for the 5mm green LED.
6. Use a 2mm drill bit and drill a hole for the antenna.
7. The finished product should look like something above.

RF Remote Control Car: Page 5

 3 2
1

1. SPST rocker switch

2. DPDT rocker switch
3. DPDT rocker switch

1 3
2

1. DPDT rocker switch

2. SPST rocker switch
3. DPDT rocker switch

RF Remote Control Car: Page 6

Step 4: Building the Transmitter

Printed Circuit Board: Parts ID Table

U1: 7805 voltage regulator (Lee’s ID: 7115)

Printed Circuit Board 171 (Lee's ID: 1058)
U2: HT12E encoder (Lee's ID: 16295)
U3: RF link transmitter (Lee’s ID: 11089)
R1: 1M resistor (Lee's ID: 94730)
R2: 1K resistor (Lee's ID: 91901)
C1 & C2: 16V 100uF electrolytic capacitor (Lee’s ID: 872)
LED1: 5mm green LED (Lee’s ID: 550)
S1: SPST rocker switch (Lee’s ID: 31061)
S2: DPDT rocker switch (left) (Lee’s ID: 32842)
S3: DPDT rocker switch (right) (Lee’s ID: 32842)

Assembling the Printed Circuit Board

1. Insert the components (U1, U2, U3, C1, C2, R1, R2, and 9V battery clip) into their destination
according to their parts ID as listed above.
2. Solder each component and desolder if necessary. Make sure the polarity of the capacitors, battery
clip, and the orientation of the IC chips are in the correct position.
3. Trim the excess leads of the components with the diagonal cutter.
4. Wire and solder each of the DPDT rocker switch, left rocker switch and right rocker switch,
accordingly to the picture above. Pin 1 and 6 is connected together. Pin 2 and 5 is connected
together.
5. Insert the DPDT rocker switches into the enclosure.
6. Solder the VCC and GND of the left & right DPDT rocker switch to the S2 and S3 on the printed
circuit board accordingly. Leave approx 3 cm length of wire.
7. Using a piece of wire (approx 3 cm long), solder one end to one of the pins of the HT12E (10, 11,
12, 13). Crimp the other end with a male quick connector. Repeat for the other pins.
8. Using another 3 cm long wire, solder one end to one of the DPDT rocker switch pins (3, 4). Crimp
the other end with an insulated female quick connector. Repeat for the other pins and rocker switch.
9. Connect the male and female quick connectors together accordingly to the table below.
10. Insert the SPST switch into the enclosure.
11. Wire and solder the SPST switch to S1 on the printed circuit board accordingly. Leave approx 3 cm
length of wire. This will provide ON/OFF to the board.
12. Insert the 5mm green LED into the enclosure.
13. Wire and solder the 5mm green LED to LED1 on the printed circuit board accordingly. Leave approx
3 cm length of wire. The LED will light up when the board is switched ON.
14. With a 8 cm long wire as the antenna, solder it to the ANT on the printed circuit board. Curl it up into
a spiral with a pen.

RF Remote Control Car: Page 7

 8 1
2 5
7 6

1 2
5
13
12
3 4
9 4 3
10 11

1. DPDT switch (left) 1. For DPDT Switch

2. DPDT switch (right) 2. Hook 1 and 6 together
3. DPDT switch (left) 3. Hook 1 and 6 together
4. DPDT switch (right) 4. Hook 2 and 5 together
5. 1/4W 1M ohm resistor 5. Hook 2 and 5 together
6. 5mm LED
7. 1/4W 1k ohm resistor
8. RF Link Transmitter
9. HT12E encoder
10. 16v 100uF
11. 16V 100uF
12. SPST switch
13. 7805 Voltage Regulator

Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FSF/XJ5S/J6MG8AJH/FSFXJ5SJ6MG8AJH.pdf
…

RF Remote Control Car: Page 8

Step 5: Circuit Diagrams

Above are pictures of the circuit diagram of both the transmitter and receiver.

7 1
5 9
6 2 8
1 5
2 11 8
3 4
10 6 7
4
9
3

1. 7805 Voltage Regulator 1. RF Link Receiver

2. SPST rocker switch 2. HT12D decoder
3. 16V 100uf 3. 1N4001 Diode
4. 16V 100uF 4. SPST switch
5. 1/4W 1M ohm resistor 5. L293D hald-bridge driver
6. HT12E encoder 6. motor
7. RF Link Transmitter 7. motor
8. DPDT rocker switch (left) 8. 1/4W 1k ohm resistor
9. DPDT rocker switch (right) 9. 1/4W 50k ohm resistor (47k + 3.3k in series)
10. 1/4W 1k ohm resistor
11. 5mm LED

RF Remote Control Car: Page 9

Step 6: Troubleshooting

Everyone makes mistakes and it is important to stay calm and debug your circuit/wiring.

Soldering

1. Tin the tip of the soldering iron with a small amount of solder. Wipe it clean on a damp sponge and
then add a small amount of solder again - this helps the heat to flow onto the joint quickly.
2. Ensure that all surfaces to be soldered are clean and free from grease.
3. Heat the lead of the component and the pad with the tip of the soldering iron.
4. Slowly and apply the solder into the joint and let the solder flow into the pad. The ideal shape of a
good solder joint should look like a volcano.
5. Remove the soldering iron after applying some solder. If the iron is left on the pad for too long, the
pad may fall off the circuit board. The flux in solder will burn off causing the solder to oxidize. So
always let the solder to cool a little before adding more, typically a couple of seconds is enough.
6. Once the solder joint is in the ideal shape, let it cool and solidify.
7. Trim the excess lead with diagonal cutters.
8. To test a solder joint, use the continuity function on the multimeter. Touch the leads together and
make sure the multimeter beeps.
9. Touch the leads on two points of the opposite sides of your solder joint. The multimeter will beep if
there is continuity detected.

Power Supply

1. Make sure that the red lead of the battery clip/holder is connected to the positive pad of the circuit
board and the black lead is connected to the negative pad.
2. Use the continuity function on the multimeter and check the positive and negative pads. If it beeps
then there is short in the circuit which may have also damaged the components.
3. You should never connect the battery until you perform the continuity test.

LED

Make sure that the polarity of the LED is correct. The longer lead is the positive end and the shorter is the
negative. Also, the pin on the flat side of the LED is the negative.

Diode and Electrolytic Capacitor

Make sure that the polarity of the diode and capacitor is correct. The diode/capacitor will have a line marked on
itself. This indicates the negative side.

Wiring

1. Trace the circuit, making sure that each component is wired correctly.
2. All the VCC should be connected together. All the GND are connected together.
3. Use a multimeter and measure the voltage of the pins. All pins connected to VCC should be voltage
of the battery and GND should be 0.
4. Have someone else to check your circuit, you may not see it but they may.

RF Remote Control Car: Page 10

Thanks for the feedback.

That looks good, great first Instructable :)

Thank You! We are looking forward to create more project like these. :)

The first picture of the chassis you show in Step1 is not the same chassis you show in the second
picture. For me, this makes your layout very difficult to follow.
Thanks for the catch! We grabbed the first picture online and didn't realize it was different. We
updated the pictures!

RF Remote Control Car: Page 11